FR2980270A1 - METHOD FOR DETERMINING HAIR CONDITION AND DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM FOR PRESCRIPTION OF TREATMENT AND / OR COSMETIC PERSONALIZED PRODUCT - Google Patents

Abstract

There is described a method for determining the condition of the hair, designed to prescribe a personalized treatment and / or cosmetic product, comprising the following steps: A) obtaining information about the hair of at least one user by means of at least one a questionnaire containing at least one question that combines the tactile perception parameters of the hair with at least three attributes, defined by flexibility, combing and roughness; B) inserting the information obtained in step A into a matrix for the classification of the hair damage, in order to obtain at least one classification concerning the state of the hair of the user; C) association of the classification concerning the condition of the hair of the user, obtained in step B, with the characteristics of at least one cosmetic product stored in a database which stores records of at least one product cosmetic, in order to obtain at least one result concerning the treatment and / or personalized cosmetic product; and D) prescribing to the user at least one treatment and / or personalized cosmetic product depending on the result obtained in step C. Also described is a system for diagnosing the condition of the hair using at least one matrix for the classification of capillary damage and a database.

Description

The present invention relates to a method for determining the condition of the hair and a diagnostic system based on tactile perception parameters of the hair, in particular designed to prescribe a personalized cosmetic treatment with specific products for the hair of the users. Hair care is a promising market in the global cosmetics industry, where innovation and practicality are strategic targets when users make their choice in view of the wide range of products that are constantly being launched in this segment. Over time, the search for specific products for a certain type of hair stopped being considered just vanity, and began to be interpreted as a need. Concerns about personal care have increased worldwide, especially considering the fact that the physical aspect is essential, either for a good professional presentation or for personal or social behavior. With the increase in the consumption of cosmetics targeted to hair care, countless products have been constantly developed and marketed on the shelves of perfumeries, supermarkets, pharmacies and mini-markets. It is normally possible to find, in these establishments, products prepared for all types of hair, including shampoos, conditioners, detanglers, chemical treatment products in general, for the treatment of hair loss. , among others. The decision to purchase a product for a certain type of hair is usually associated with several related factors, mainly the user's hair type and the cosmetic treatment to be applied. Daily hair treatments usually consist of a washing of the hair with a shampoo and a conditioner; their hydration; the use of a hair dryer, a hair straightener or a curling iron, and / or the cauterization of the hair. On the other hand, there are also treatments carried out over a longer period of time, including chemical processes such as hair lightening, wetting, dyeing, perming, straightening, straightening, bleaching. and / or a dye in blond. In view of the diversity of the existing products, before the purchase, many users rely on the advice given by the sellers of establishments that sell cosmetic products, in order to obtain a suggestion on the most suitable product for their hair type - either for a daily care or for a treatment applied over a longer period of time. Users are usually looking for options to make the appearance of their hair healthy, to combat external natural detrimental factors (such as sunlight and chlorine) and / or other factors due to the use of chemicals which modify the structure of the capillary fibers. There are also users who are looking for specialized cosmetics for relatively more common treatments, such as hair and oily scalp treatments, dry tips and dandruff; and users who are concerned about the volume, gloss, and dryness of hair fibers, among other variables. Some users believe in the direct relationship between price and quality, or between brand and quality, and they buy cosmetics that are often expensive, being sure they are doing a good deal. In this case, when the result offered by the purchased product is not what is expected, the user usually associates the brand of the product purchased with the unsatisfactory performance that results.

It is very common to see users who are looking for cosmetic products recommended by friends or acquaintances who have made their choice of the treatment used. However, it is known that the structure of the hair fibers varies from one person to another, just as the result of the applied treatment may or may not be good for a certain user. If there is no specialist working as a personal consultant in a perfumery or cosmetic store, the solution generally found by users is to read and analyze the information described on the label of the product in question. and to follow their intuition when they look for the product best suited to their hair type.

However, selecting a product based on an isolated visual analysis of hair can lead users to choose the wrong cosmetic product to buy, as external factors, such as environmental light, can be a barrier , influencing users to buy products that do not meet the structural needs of their hair. The hair has four main components -. the cuticle, cortex, marrow and cell membrane complex joining adjacent cuticle cells and cortical cells. The cuticle, which is made of amorphous and proteinaceous material, is the outermost part of the strand, and is responsible for protecting the cortical cells. The cuticle also regulates the entry and exit of water into and out of the fiber, thereby maintaining the physical properties of the fiber. The cortex, which forms the majority of the hair fiber, is formed of keratin macrofibrils aligned in the strand direction. The marrow is located inside the cortex. This component may be present or absent along the length of the hair. Melanin granules are distributed randomly in the cortex, and their type, size, and amount determine the color of the hair. Changes in hair fibers may occur in the cuticles and in the cortex as well and, depending on the treatment applied, the damage may be different and may occur through different processes. Therefore, for a more accurate analysis of the condition of the hair, the purchase of a cosmetic product must take into account both intrinsic and extrinsic factors of the hair, which increases the chances that the hair responds favorably to the recommended treatment. .

As is known in the art on this subject, cosmetic advice is currently a service that is regularly offered by beauty clinics, gyms, beauty salons, the internet, among other places. This counseling service is usually performed on the basis of visual analysis or by means of electronic procedures / specialized devices. After an initial analysis has been done by the expert, a representation of the state of the user's hair is sketched, and then tips on the product are given. The use of this cosmetic counseling service may perhaps be based on the submission of a questionnaire with random questions regarding the condition of the hair and the habits of the user. In this regard, US Patent 2007/0012320 discloses a method and system for diagnosing the degree of severity of hair loss based on responses to a set of questions presented to the consumer. Depending on the result of the response analysis, a second questionnaire is presented to recommend a more specific cosmetic treatment or product. Although this document refers to a cosmetic counseling service, the described method was developed solely to recommend cosmetic products for the treatment of hair loss. The US patent document 2009/0076639 also describes a method of cosmetic advice and a system for diagnosing a cosmetic product for the treatment of the condition of the hair. However, this method includes measuring the condition of the scalp and the hair of users by using a diagnostic device for this purpose, with subsequent analysis of the collected data and handling of the custom formulation, to provide the user a product suitable for cosmetic treatment. Although the method described in this document allows the handling of a personalized product essentially on the basis of the analysis of the quantity, density and condition of the hair, the diagnosis of the personalized product is directly related to the use of an appropriate device to reproduce the image of the scalp of the user, which therefore requires that the user is physically present in the establishment where this device is available. The state of the art further discloses US patent document 2004/0202686, which discloses a cosmetic counseling method and a system for producing a personalized hair care product. This method includes the prescription of a personalized cosmetic, combining a base product and a mixture of biopharmaceuticals and plant extracts, and the use of the resulting combination to prepare a hair treatment product. US 2004/0236592, in turn, describes a method for obtaining information about the condition of a user's hair through an interview or questionnaire, to analyze the data ( relating to frequency profile and chemical process applications, hair care habits and hair fat condition parameters) and to prepare a hair treatment program comprising (i) a product recommendation, ( ii) a hair care service and (iii) a hair care activity. US 2006/0265244 discloses a method and system for classifying the type and nomenclature of hair. This method comprises steps of completing a questionnaire that ranks the hair according to at least four parameters, using a database to determine the type of hair among the sixteen types recorded, identifying at least one product recommendable for treating hair, as well as a product that should be avoided by the user. The four parameters used to classify the user's hair type include: (1) bold or dry, (2) the presence or absence of damage, (3) a thin or large diameter, and (4) ) straight or wavy hair. Once the hair type is set, the sixteen hair types recorded in the database serve as a basis for comparison to recommend a personalized product for the user. In the light of the above-mentioned state of the art documents, it can be observed that, despite the evidence of a continuing development of new hair care cosmetic consulting techniques, the methodology for diagnosing the condition Hair is often linked to the collection of personal information associated with the same repetitive classification parameters.

However, as mentioned above in this description, the structural changes of the hair are associated with intrinsic characteristics of the fibers which, in turn, do not always correspond to the visual perceptions of the users when they answer any questionnaire for cosmetic advice. The ideal procedure is to lead the users, through questions prepared with a popular and popular vocabulary, to give information about the state of the tactile perceptions of the hair which, in turn, reflect the structural state of the fibers and increase the chances of obtaining a diagnosis better adapted to their needs. The first object of this invention is to provide a method for determining the condition of the hair, in particular designed so as to prescribe a treatment and / or personalized product, mainly on the basis of tactile perception parameters of the hair, defined by the softness , combing and roughness. In addition, the second object of this invention is to provide a system for diagnosing the condition of the hair, comprising a matrix for the classification of capillary damage and a database, for prescribing a personalized cosmetic treatment and / or product. The first object of this invention is achieved by means of a method for determining the condition of the hair, designed to prescribe a personalized treatment and / or product, comprising the following steps: (A) obtaining hair information at least one user using at least one questionnaire containing at least one question that combines the tactile perception parameters of the hair with at least three attributes, defined by flexibility, combing and roughness; (B) inserting the information obtained in step (A) into a matrix for the classification of hair damage, in order to obtain at least one classification regarding the state of the hair of the user; (C) association of the user's hair condition classification, obtained in step B, with the characteristics of at least one cosmetic product stored in a database that stores records of at least one cosmetic product, in order to obtain at least one result concerning the treatment and / or personalized cosmetic product; (D) prescribing to the user at least one treatment and / or personalized cosmetic product according to the result obtained in step C. The second object of this invention is achieved by means of a system for diagnosing the condition of hair, which includes a matrix for the classification of capillary damage and a database, in which the matrix for classification contains information obtained from questionnaires presented to users and is stored in a database associated with records of one or more cosmetics, so that the system is configured to link the information from the matrix for damage classification to one or more cosmetics registered in its database, in view of tactile perception parameters of the hair combined with at least three attributes defined by flexibility, combing and roughness, to prescribe to the user one or more personalized treatments and / or cosmetic products.

The invention will be further described in more detail based on an exemplary implementation shown in the drawings. In the drawings: Figure 1 is a flowchart with the steps of the method for determining the condition of the hair. Figure 2 corresponds to an embodiment of the matrix for damage classification used in the pilot phase. Figure 3 corresponds to an embodiment of the matrix for damage classification, reformulated in the validation phase. Figure 1 illustrates a flowchart showing the method covered by this invention, according to a preferred embodiment, comprising the following steps: 1. obtaining personal information about the hair; 1.1. presentation of the questionnaire; 2. loading the matrix for classification; 3. processing of information in the matrix for classification; 3.1. association with a product registered in the database; 4. prescription of a treatment and / or cosmetic product. This method for determining the condition of the hair begins with step 1, the collection of personal information about the hair, consolidated by means of step 1.1, the presentation of the questionnaire. This questionnaire considers questions of preference related to the shape, type, daily care profile and application of chemical hair treatments, tactile perception attributes, and any other information regarding the condition of the skin. hair.

In a preferred embodiment, the hair shape options are described in the questionnaire in the form of options, allowing the user to choose, but not exclusively, between straight (completely stiff), curly (wavy) hair. , curly) or frizzy (afro, coiled). Other options regarding hair shape can be added to the questionnaire, so that this query serves as a reference to indicate the shape of the hair of the user.

In particular, the shape of the hair is defined by a table with a photographic scale, which is based on a system widely known in the art, attached to the questionnaire, which identifies the different hair shapes according to their curvature and serves to help users better understand when they have to choose their hair shape. Optionally, questions concerning the user's hair type are described in the questionnaire in the form of options, allowing the user to preferably choose from a fatty, normal, mixed state (dry tips and oily scalp). ), or sec. The questionnaire also considers questions about the profile of the chemical treatments applied to the user's hair which, in turn, are described in the form of options so that users indicate the chemical treatments that have already been applied to the user's hair. the structure of their hair fibers. Preferably, the questionnaire proposed by this invention envisages, as options to be indicated, the chemical treatments with lightening products, wicks, dyeing, perming, straightening, straightening, bleaching and / or bleaching, among others. In addition, daily care is also an important tool for the hair since it represents the products that are most often in contact with the fiber structure. It should be realized that in general the daily care profile and chemical treatment applications, in combination with the frequency of these treatments, may have more or less impact on the structure of the capillary strands, resulting in some hair damage mechanism, since the properties of the strands tend to be naturally deprotected, thus facilitating the loss of nutrients and keratin. Table 1 shows the type of damage caused by both daily care and the application of 15 chemical treatments.

Table 1 Type of damage caused by different treatments Daily care: washing, Permanent Agent drying treatment, straightening, Japanese hair straightening Discoloration, discoloration + dyeing Coloring hair dryer, combing, external Brazilian hair straightening: (in blond) sun capillaries , permanent chlorine Reduction: treatment Oxidation: H202 with chemical accelerator at high pH pH 9-11 Process Energy KSSK + chemical oxidation, reaction at pH 9-11. Fission SS: RS_SR -> Mechanical oxidation, and photo-R-SH -> RSO-SR -> R502-SR -> [R502- heat, oxidation KSSR + surfactants K-SH -> SOR] -> R502-502R -> 2R-503H KSSR + R-SH -> RSSR + K-SH Damage They are of They are preferably superficial, with more impact at a distance Damage Degradation of the melanin, Similar to the whitening treatment, however more preference of the damage with superficial soft cortex and roots, roots. cuticles and cuticles, disulfide bonds are with more Proteins and melanin protect against UV rays to the cortex. ruptured, hydrophilic character, impact to fractures of great weakness, decrease (300%) distance bonding properties of tension- disulfide and deformation when they are wet roots. decrease Damage to properties with progression of tension - slower deformation Therefore, the questionnaire preferably includes a question regarding the frequency of application of chemical hair treatments, and the options are selected from: (i) at least once a month (ii) every 2 to 4 months, (iii) every 4 to 6 months, or more than 6 months. The options are not limited to the mentioned options, which serve only as reference ranges to exemplify a preferred embodiment of this invention.

Also, in the initial steps 1 and 1.1 for obtaining personal information about the user's hair, illustrated in Figure 1, at least one question concerning tactile perception is included in the questionnaire presented in the method of this invention, this parameter being the most relevant and innovative in comparison with the prior art which proposes the presentation of a questionnaire. To effectively reflect the information regarding the tactile perception of the user's hair, said parameter is combined with at least three attributes defined by flexibility (large, normal or low), combing (easy, medium or difficult) and roughness ( strong or weak). Therefore, the questionnaire presented in the method of this invention should contain at least one question concerning the tactile perception of the hair, with a written answer or a multiple choice answer by the user, regardless of the limited number of questions concerning the subject. condition of the hair in the questionnaire. Preferably, the questionnaire is made available to users in a printed format, via a website on the Internet, sent by email or mail in response to a private meeting, or even delivered by a product consultant. Answers to the questionnaire, with personal information about the condition of the hair, are preferably sent by the user in a printed format, via a website via the internet, by email, SMS, mail, or are delivered to a person. product consultant. After the initial steps 1 and 1.1, the present method for determining the condition of the hair has a second step 2 concerning the loading of the matrix for a damage classification with the personal information of the user that has been obtained from the questionnaire present. The classification matrix designed for this invention was developed using intrinsic and extrinsic factors to the structure of the hair fibers. Its system has been configured to process the personal information concerning the user's hair, associating them with the characteristics of at least one treatment and / or cosmetic product recorded in the database in which it is stored, in accordance with the steps 3 and 3.1 illustrated in FIG. 1. The results obtained in steps 3 and 3.1 also make it possible to prescribe at least one kit of products and / or cosmetic treatment in connection with the kit. To validate the system for diagnosing the level of damage to the user's hair and to identify at least one hair cosmetic, the classification matrix was constructed with parameters of shape (or curvature), type, profile of daily care and chemical treatments applied to the hair, as well as tactile perception. The hair shape parameter is based on the photographic scale system widely known in the art which, in turn, identifies eight different types of hair curvature, numbered I through VIII. With regard to nomenclature, types I and II are considered stiff, III and IV are considered curly, and V and more are considered frizzy. In order that the condition of the user's hair is classified by the classification matrix, both the daily care profile and the profile of the chemical treatments applied to the hair have been associated with the respective mechanisms of damage to the hair, in which four groups. Group One includes only daily care, which includes washing with shampoo, using a conditioner, hair dryer, moisturizing and straightening iron, and is directly related to mechanical, thermal and surfactant damage. Group two includes daily care (described in group one), and further dyeing, brightening, or wicking (except for bleaching or blond dyeing of all hair), and is characterized by the presence of oxidation damage. Group three includes daily care (described in group one), and in addition a permanent, straightening or smoothing, and is characterized by the presence of damage by reduction. Group four includes daily care (described in group one), and additionally fading, bleaching, or a combination of group two and three treatments. On the other hand, the tactile perception parameter was first structured in the classification matrix according to four attributes. flexibility, combing, roughness and extension. Each attribute has been subdivided into sub-levels, as shown in Table 2.

Table 2 Tactile perception attributes, subdivided into damage sub-levels Importance in classification Attributes FlexibilityBanding Roughness Extension Level Increased damage Large Easy Low Normal (S1) (Comb1) (C1) (Ext1) damage Normal Medium High High (S2 ) (Comb1) (C2) (Ext1) Low Difficult (S3) (Comb1) However, when performing tests concerning the determination of the classification matrix, it was verified that the extension attribute did not contribute satisfactorily to the damage classification; he was then excluded from the list of tactile perception attributes. To confirm the determination of the classification matrix, tests were carried out in two phases, with the participation of volunteers and hairdressers. In phase I (pilot stage), 93 volunteers participated in total, and in phase II (validation stage) the volunteers were 188 in total. In the pilot and validation stages, volunteers and hairdressers answered similar questions, and the volunteers were asked to answer a supplementary question about the frequency of the daily care profile and the application of chemical treatments on the hair. . The questionnaire used in the tests considered questions concerning the form (table with attached photographic scale), the profile of daily care and application of chemical treatments on the hair, and the tactile perception of the hair. Apart from these parameters, a question regarding the type of hair was included in the questionnaire, although the result of this parameter had an impact on the classification of damage by the matrix. The answers given by the volunteers were compared to the responses given by the hairdressers who, in turn, had been trained with 90 locks of hair designed (according to Table 3) for each level of attribute damage related to tactile perception (flexibility, combing, roughness and extension) for each hair shape (straight, curly and frizzy).

Table 3 Procedure for washing wicks to build the tactile perception scale Flexibility S1 Shampoo + conditioner for dry hair silicone + S2 Shampoo + anti-residue S3 Shampoo + anti-residue + application of friction with a sponge Combing Combl Shampoo + conditioner for dry hair silicone + Comb2 Shampoo + anti-residue Comb3 Shampoo + anti-residue + application of a rub with a sponge Roughness Cl Shampoo + conditioner for dry hair silicone + C2 Shampoo + anti-residue + rubbing with a sponge Extension Extl Shampoo + conditioner for dry hair silicone + Ext2 Discoloration + coloring + anti-residue shampoo In the pilot stage, the responses of 93 volunteers were evaluated by four hairdressers, and, to list the qualitative answers given by hairdressers and volunteers, we used the multivariate classification tree technique not.

The dependent variable in this model was the intersection of damage and hair shape for hairstylist assessment. The explanatory (qualitative) variables considered were: the shape, the type, the daily care profile and the application of chemical treatments to the hair, as well as the attributes of tactile perception (flexibility, combing, roughness and extension). In this pilot step, there was no distinction among the different hair shapes (straight, curly and frizzy) in the classification matrix. Furthermore, the daily care profile and the application of chemical hair treatments was considered only as a decisive criterion, in the case of overlapping classifications (as in the embodiment illustrated in Figure 2, where there was an overlap between No Damage [ND] and Light Damage [LD] in line 4 of the matrix). Have been performed a classification by hairdresser and another classification taking into account all the hairdressers together. The classification pattern with all hairdressers indicated 57.3% of good assumptions. The percentage of good reasoning assumptions for hairdressers 1, 2, 3 and 4 was 66.7%, 52.7%, 63.4% and 60.2%, respectively. For the final classification reason, the responses of all hairdressers were used. Table 4 compares the results of hairdresser classifications with the estimated results with the classification tree from the responses in the volunteers' questionnaires.

Table 4 Matrix with classification result - values ranked according to the estimated values Priori \ I M_ Leg_ Knee_ N_ M_ Leg_ Curly ND_ Curly I M_ Leg_ Stiff Raid ND Total Kinky Kinky Kinky Curly Curly Stiff Raid Correct Posteriori I_Created 7 0 1 6 0 1 8 7 8 0, 4 6 M_Copper 6 0 2 8 0, 0 0 Key_Copper 2 0 2 4 0, 0 0 ND_Copper 1 0 0 1 0, 0 0 l_English 1 8 9 5 2 '0 4 1 1 9 7 L, 7 9 `Yo M_Frisé 16 8 8 1 3 3 2 4, 2 4% Lég_Frisé 12 1 0 7 3 2 3 0, 0 0% ND Curly 2 9 3 2 7 4 1 6 5, 8 5` Yo I_Raide 2 5 6 1 1 0 3 2 7 3 7, C 4 `Yo M_Raide 0 4 1 0 5 0 0 0` Yo Lég_Raide 0 4 0 4 1), 00% ND Stiff 1 5 1 4 9 20 4 5, 0 0 `Yo Tota l 8 L 0 0 0 15 2 3 2 0 64 28 0 0 1 2 3 72 57, 26% All blank positions in the table indicate that there were no observations for the crossing. The highest percentages of correct classifications were observed for intensely damaged frizzy hair, severely damaged curly hair, and undamaged curly hair. For light damage, there was no agreement between the variable response and the pattern prediction; in this case, most responses with minor damage were classified as severe damage by reason. The pattern did not classify any hair with moderate damage and a kinky shape, moderate damage and a stiff form, and no damage and a stiff form. The lower frequency observed for mild damage and moderate damage contributes to the small percentages of correct estimates observed in these cases. The most important variables in the classification of hair were the shape of the hair, the daily care profile and the application of chemical treatments on the hair, as well as the tactile perception attribute combing. The hair type and the tactile perception extension attribute were less important in the classification, while the tactile perception attributes roughness and flexibility did not appear in the classification tree for this pilot stage. In addition, there was little agreement between volunteers and hairdressers with respect to softness, combing, roughness and extension tactile perception attributes, as can be seen in Tables 5 to 8.

Table 5 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between volunteers (column) and hairdressers (rows) for flexibility attribute Suppositeness Volunteer High Normal Low High 1 0 0 9, 4 1, 0 Normal 75.0 5 3 2 6, 6 Low 15.0 36.9 72.4 Table 6 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between volunteers (column) and hairdressers (rows) for attribute roughness Roughness Volunteer Low High Low 5 0 0 2 5 8 High 50.0 74.2 Table 7 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between volunteers (column) and hairdressers (rows) with respect to attribute extension Extension Volunteer Normal High Normal 5 0 7 5 2, 2 High 49.3 47.8 10 Table 8 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between volunteers (column) and hairdressers (rows) with regard to the combing attribute Combing Volunteer Easy Medium Difficult Easy 5 0, 8 1 7, 0 0, 0 Medium 35,6 4 3 8 4 0 6 Difficult 13,6 39,2 59,4 Despite the lack of agreement At all levels of tactile perception, flexibility, combing and roughness perception, fluctuations in responses (considered normal) occurred among adjacent levels and did not have a significant impact on the final classification. On the other hand, the tactile perception extension attribute was considered to have a greater impact on the final classification according to the matrix proposed in this phase. After all, if a volunteer has been classified by the hairstylist as having undamaged hair, and the two disagree solely on the extension response, the volunteer could rate himself as having severely damaged hair. It is also concluded that even the classification done by the hairdressers could suffer from a strong impact inherent in the construction of this classification matrix. In addition, it was noted that volunteers had a great deal of difficulty understanding the tactile perception extension attribute. As a result, the responses given by the volunteers were random in comparison with the responses given by the hairdressers (which can be seen in Table 8, in which the percentage of good estimates was 50%).

The combination of these two factors, regarding the tactile perception extension attribute, was decisive for the reconsideration of the classification matrix proposed in the pilot stage. It was verified that the exclusion of the extension attribute was likely to reduce the variation in classification possibilities, thereby increasing the correctness of the classification. In addition, the need for research to better understand the vocabulary used by volunteers to identify their hair damage was also examined to adjust the terms used in the questionnaire. Phase II (validation stage) of the rectitude tests of the matrix for the damage classification then began, with the realization of a qualitative research with a methodology of semi-structured directives, the initiation of group discussions, in a room with mirrors. The research used 32 women aged 25 to 35, with medium to long hair, belonging to classes A, B and C (meaning rich, middle-class, and poor). All volunteers used shampoo and conditioner at least twice a week, and 50% of them had virgin hair (neither coloring nor applying chemical treatments for the last 12 months), and 50% had hair which had been chemically treated in the last three months. The volunteers were divided into four groups, called AB1, B2C, Straight / Curly and Kinky / Curly. In addition, to be classified as a volunteer of the group Crisp / Curly, the volunteer had to apply one or more primers (intensifier spikes, ointment, relaxers, creams without rinsing, heat activating repair cream, gel, mousse, hair spray, between others) on the hair at least once every two weeks. Initially, the volunteers were invited to draw, on the representation of a face, the state of their hair a good day and a bad day, by describing these states with their own words. After analyzing the results, it was noted that the ideal hair a good day, both for the group of Smooth / Frisé group and for those of the group Kinky / Curly, would be "disciplined hair".

Then, it was determined what the volunteers thought were related to the hair damage, as well as the vocabulary identified to identify them. It has been verified that the word "dry" appears as an effect of several sources of causes.

Finally, the tactile perception attributes proposed in Phase I (flexibility, combing, roughness and extension), as well as the adequacy of their damage levels, were evaluated. It was verified that the attributes of flexibility, combing and roughness were easily understood and had adequate levels, in addition to the prior confirmation that the first two attributes were already part of the usual language used by volunteers. However, the concept of extension was considered difficult to understand at first, and in addition to being confused with artificial hair integration type extension, this concept was associated with elasticity. With the final result of the qualitative research, it was possible to observe that the extension attribute was poorly understood by the volunteers, thus confirming what had already been achieved during the implementation of the pilot stage (phase I ). Therefore, it was decided to exclude this tactile perception attribute from the classification matrix.

Also based on the result of the qualitative research, the questionnaire was adapted according to the vocabulary identified by the volunteers who had responded to the qualitative research. In view of this, the classification matrix has been reformulated (as shown in the embodiment of Figure 3) for the implementation of the validation step, in which 95 volunteers who together with those participated in the pilot stage, raised to 564 the responses evaluated by three hairdressers.

The results in Table 9 show that, in the validation step, hairdressers and volunteers were in great agreement about the shape of the hair. This agreement may have been the effect of using the photographic scale to guide classification.

Table 9 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between volunteers (column) and hairdressers (rows) with regard to the form Form Volunteer Frilly Curly Frilly Stiff 6 7, 9 8, 7 1, 0 Curly 31.5 8 3 1 2, 4 Kinky 0.6 7.7 86 The same may have happened for the group of treatments (daily care profile and application of chemical treatments) practiced by volunteers, as shown in Table 10.

Table 10 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between volunteers (column) and hairdressers (rows) with regard to treatment Group of Volunteer treatment G 1 G 2 G 3 G 4 G 1 7 8 5 5, 0 3, 8 1 , 8 G2 12.0 8 3, 7 0, 0 4, 2 G3 6.0 0.7 7 4, 3 2, 4 G4 3.3 10.6 21.9 91.7 With respect to the attributes of In tactile perception, there was little variation among the responses of hairdressers and volunteers, if one looks from a general point of view. However, in an individual comparison of volunteers' responses, there was more significant agreement between volunteers and hairdressers in several respects, consistent with the results presented in Tables 11, 12 and 13. Table 11 Percentage of volunteers agreement and disagreement between volunteers (column) and hairdressers (lines) with regard to flexibility Flexibility Voluntary Very Neither soft dry nor Very dry, soft little soft Very soft 1 5 0 6, 2 0, 0 Neither soft nor supple 65.0 4 5 7 1 8, 7 secs Very dry, slightly 20.0 48.1 81 'soft Table 12 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between volunteers (column) and hairdressers (rows) with respect to sensation (roughness) Sensation Volunteer I do not feel rough I feel rough I do not feel rough 3 6 8 1 6, 1 I feel rough 63.2 83.9 Table 13 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between volunteers (column) and hairdressers (lines) in that 10 combing Voluntary combing They do not get tangled They get tangled a lot / Difficult to comb tangles a little / Not easy / Easy or difficult to comb comb They do not / 1 1, 8 0, 0 s do not entangle Easy to comb They get tangled 44.0 5 2 9 3 0, 0 a little / Neither easy nor difficult to comb They get tangled 9.5 35.3 70.0 a lot / Hard to comb The pattern of classification with all hairdressers indicated 58.7% correct assessments, and the percentage of correct assessments for hairdressers 1, 2 and 3 were respectively 59.6%, 59.6% and 62.2%. 5 Although the responses of all hairdressers were used in the final pattern, it is important to clarify that the results from a barber evaluation of the pilot stage were not considered since he did not perform the sample evaluation of this validation step. Table 14 compares the results obtained from hairdresser classifications with the estimated results with the classification tree from the volunteer responses. All blanks indicate that there were no observations for the crossing.

Table 14 Classification Matrix - values classified according to the estimated values in the final pattern Priori \ I M_ Lég_ Crépu ND_ I M_ Lég_ Frisé ND_ Frisé I M_ Lég_ Raide Raide ND Total Kinky Kinky Kinky Curly Curly Stiff Stiff Correct Posteriori I_Created 1 1 8 6 3 3 1 3 0 9 0, 7 7 `Yo M_Crpu 2 2 6 2 3 3 3 7 8, 7 9` Yo Leg_Created 8 5 8 4 2 5 3 2, 0 J% ND_Created 2 2 0, 0 0% l_Scrolled 4 1 4 4 C 7 9 3 6 8 5 8, 8 2% M_Frisé 1 8 1 8 7 5 2 4 4 5 0, 0 0 `Yo Lég_English 1 6 7 8 5 7 3 5 1 J 5 2 1 0 4 5 4, 8 1% ND Frisé 1 7 1 4 2 2 4 5 8, ',.' 3 `Yo I_Raide 2 4 2 1 9 5 3 2 5 9, 3 8% M_Raide 2 6 2 1 31 2 1 J 5 4 5 7, 4 1% Legal_Right 1 1 7 11 6 2 2 8 2 1, 4 3% ND Stiff 1 1 5 1 2 1 9 6 3, 1 6% Tota l 13 5 4 8 2L 6 6 0 5 2 7 4 2 7 2 1 5 3 0 5 6 4 5 8, 6 9% The highest percentages of Correct classifications were observed for frizzy hair with intense damage (90.8%) and with slight damage (78.8%), and for straight and undamaged hair (63.2%). The cross between frizzy hair and undamaged hair was a very rare event in the dataset. Of all the 564 determinations made, only two were classified in this cross (0.35%) and, therefore, the fact that the final percentage was zero posed no problems with the final classification obtained. Another result with a percentage equivalent to zero was the cross between curly hair and light damage. The confusion occurred mainly due to a classification in curly hair, however with moderate damage (40.0%). In addition, two other percentages had indices less than 50%, which was the case of moderate damage to frizzy hair (32.0%) and straight hair (21.7%). For frizzy hair, confusion occurred in relation to damages, since again 32% were classified as intense and unmitigated damages. For straight hair, confusion also occurred in relation to damage, with 39.3% classified as mild and unmitigated. The final percentage of correct classification was 58.7% and although it was similar to the pilot phase (Phase I), there was an obvious improvement in the matrix with respect to the marginal classifications. (lines). The most important variables in the classification of hair were the shape of the hair and the treatment (daily care profile and application of chemical treatments on the hair). The attribute of flexibility was important in the classification of groups, mainly for straight hair. Roughness and combing attributes helped classify frizzy hair. Type and combing attributes helped classify curly hair. A classification according to the damage was carried out, without separation of the hair of the volunteers according to the type, in order to know which results would be observed in the classification matrix. As can be seen in Table 15, the highest percentage of correct classification was for hair with severe damage (91.7%), ie, there was virtually no Identification problems of hair with intense damage according to the prepared questionnaire. Table 15 Damage classification results matrix: Categorized values based on estimated values - pattern without hair separation by type Posteriori / ND Light Moderate Intensive Total% Correct Priori ND 1 8 1 0 1 3 4 4 5 4 0, 0 0% Light 11 7 7 2 9 1 5 1 3 2 5 8, 3 3% Moderate 1 40 8 8 2 8 1 5 7 5 6, 0 5% Intensity 0 8 11 2 1 1 2 3 0 9 1 3 7 4% Total 30 135 141 258 564 69, 86% For hair with minor damage, there were 58.3% correct classifications. In this case, the biggest problem could be observed for the 22.0% incorrect classification in moderate damage, which was not significantly reflected due to the proximity of classifications between mild and moderate damage. For hair with moderate damage, there were 56.1% correct classifications. In this case, the biggest problem could be observed for 25.5% of incorrect classifications for minor damage. For undamaged hair, there were 40% correct classifications. Incorrect classifications were observed among light (22.2%) and moderate (28.9%) damage. The biggest problem was classified as moderate damage, since they were very far from undamaged hair. Considering the results of the two steps performed in the assertion test phases I and II, the classification matrix was considered valid for the classification of the hair according to the damage, according to the shape parameters of the hair, in profile daily care and application of chemical treatments, as well as attributes of tactile perception of flexibility, combing and roughness.

It is important to emphasize that the Matrix for Classification of Capillary Damage, developed for use as a diagnostic tool, is also capable of separating different agents that cause damage, and eliminating the possible opinions of the market.

In a preferred embodiment, the insertion of the questionnaire responses into the classification matrix leads to a position which establishes the capillary damage and allows the implementation of the final step 4 of this method, which includes the prescription of a treatment and / or cosmetic product, or also a product kit and / or a cosmetic treatment in connection with the kit. The products recommended by the classification matrix take into account the variations of each dimension present in the database.

The method of this invention is different from the others described in the prior art documents, since it classifies the damage according to the attributes of tactile perception (flexibility, combing and roughness), thus revealing a new way of determining the condition of the hair and to satisfy more safely the needs of the user. In addition, the tests carried out for the design of this invention attest to the importance of an adjustment of the vocabulary of the questionnaires presented in the cosmetic counseling methods to the language used by the users, so that correct personal information can be obtained and in order ensure the prescription of a product and / or more certified treatment.

One of the advantages of this invention is that the user is the agent guiding the method in question and, based on his own analysis of the tactile perception attributes (which can be comfortably performed at his home), a position will be put forward in the matrix for the classification of the damage, so that a treatment and / or cosmetic product can be recommended. The damage classification matrix used as a diagnostic tool in the present invention has been developed without consideration of any product line; it is therefore suitable for the prescription of any hair cosmetic in the database in which it is stored.

Preferably, the compositions of the cosmetic products and / or treatments contained in the product database essentially consist of an active ingredient and a physiologically appropriate carrier. The usual cosmetic adjuvants and active ingredients present in the compositions in question may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. As regards the physiologically acceptable vehicle, it consists of a usual cosmetic base depending on the intended application for the composition to be prepared. This vehicle consists of a usual adjuvant and physiologically inert compounds. One of the modes of implementation of the method covered by this invention can be done via a computerized system accessible, for example, by means of a website on the Internet, or even by means of a computer in which the system rotates to diagnose the condition of the hair of the present invention.

This system includes at least one matrix for the classification of capillary damage and a database; the damage classification matrix includes information obtained from questionnaires presented to users, and is stored in a database which, in turn, includes records of at least one cosmetic product; the system is configured to link the information from the classification matrix to at least one cosmetic product registered in the database, based on tactile tactile perception parameters of the hair combined with at least three attributes defined by the flexibility, combing and roughness, in order to recommend to the user at least one treatment and / or personalized cosmetic product, or also a kit of products and / or a cosmetic treatment in connection with the kit. After describing an example of a preferred embodiment, it will be understood that the scope of the present invention encompasses other possible alternatives, being limited only by the content of the appended claims, which encompasses possible equivalents.

Claims (26)

REVENDICATIONS1. Method for determining the state of hair, designed in particular for prescribing at least one treatment and / or personalized cosmetic product, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: (A) obtaining information concerning the hair of at least a user using at least one questionnaire containing at least one question that combines the tactile perception parameters of the hair with at least three attributes, defined by flexibility, combing and roughness; (B) inserting the information obtained in step (A) into a matrix for classification of capillary damage, in order to obtain at least one classification regarding the condition of the user's hair; (C) association of the user's hair condition classification, obtained in step B, with the characteristics of at least one cosmetic product stored in a database that stores records of at least a cosmetic product, in order to obtain at least one result concerning the treatment and / or personalized cosmetic product; (D) prescribing to the user at least one treatment and / or cosmetic product customized according to the result obtained in step C. 2. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the tactile soft perception attribute defined by step A is subdivided into damage sub-levels selected from at least high, normal and low. 3. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the combing tactile perception attribute defined in step A is subdivided into damage sub-levels selected from at least one of easy, medium and difficult. 4. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the tactile perception attribute of roughness defined by step A is subdivided into damage sub-levels, chosen from at least one low and important. 5. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the information concerning the hair of the user, defined by step A, are associated with at least one hair shape, chosen from at least stiff, curly and frizzy. 6. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that the information concerning the shape of the hair is associated with a panel with a photographic scale. 7. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the information concerning the hair of the user, defined by step A, is associated with at least one type of hair, selected from at least fatty, normal, mixed and dry. . 8. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the information concerning the hair of the user, defined by step A, is associated with the chemical treatment profile applied to the hair, chosen from at least one lightening, one wicking, dyeing, perming, straightening, straightening, fading and / or blond hair. 9. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the information concerning the hair of the user, defined by step A, is associated with the daily care related to the use of at least one shampoo, one after the shampoo, hydration, hair dryer, straightener, hair extension and / or cauterization. 10. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the questionnaire defined in step A is presented in a printed format, via a website on the Internet, sent by email or mail in response to a private appointment, or even issued to the user by a product consultant. 11. The method of claim 1, characterized in that the responses to the questionnaire defined in step A are sent by the user in a printed format, via a website on the Internet, by email, SMS or mail, or even delivered by the user to a product consultant. 12. The method of claim 1, characterized in that the result obtained in step C allows the prescription of at least one kit of products and / or a cosmetic treatment in connection with the kit. 13. The method of claim 1, characterized in that the compositions of cosmetics stored in the database defined in step C comprise at least one active ingredient and at least one physiologically suitable vehicle. 14. System for diagnosing the condition of hair, characterized in that it comprises at least one matrix for the classification of capillary damage and a database, the matrix for damage classification contains information obtained from questionnaires presented to users and is stored in a database, the database includes records of at least one cosmetic product, the system is configured to link the information from the classification matrix to at least one cosmetic product registered in the database, on the basis of tactile perception parameters of the hair combined with at least three attributes defined by flexibility, combing and roughness, in order to recommend to the user at least one treatment and / or personalized cosmetic product. 15. Diagnostic system according to claim 14, characterized in that the soft touch perception attribute is subdivided into damage sub-levels, selected from at least high, normal and low. 16. Diagnostic system according to claim 14, characterized in that the touch perception attribute of combing is subdivided into damage sub-levels, chosen from at least easy, medium and difficult. 17. Diagnostic system according to claim 14, characterized in that the attribute of tactile perception of roughness is subdivided into damage sub-levels, chosen from at least small and important. 18. Diagnostic system according to claim 14, characterized in that the information obtained from the questionnaires are associated with at least one hair shape, selected from at least stiff, curly and frizzy. 25 30 35 19. Diagnostic system according to claim 18, characterized in that the information concerning the shape of the hair is associated with a panel with a photographic scale. 20. Diagnostic system according to claim 14, characterized in that the information obtained from the questionnaires are associated with at least one type of hair, selected from at least fat, normal, mixed and dry. 21. Diagnostic system according to claim 14, characterized in that the information obtained from the questionnaires are associated with the chemical treatment profile applied to the hair, selected from at least one lightening, a wicking, a dyeing, a permanent, a straightening , a smoothing, a fading and / or a blond coloration. 22. Diagnostic system according to claim 14, characterized in that the information obtained from the questionnaires are associated with daily care related to the use of at least one shampoo, a conditioner, a hydration, hair dryer, straightener, hair extension and / or cauterization. 23. Diagnostic system according to claim 14, characterized in that the questionnaires are available in a printed format, via a website on the Internet, sent by email or mail in response to a private appointment, or even delivered by a product consultant. 24. Diagnostic system according to claim 14, characterized in that the answers to the questionnaires are sent by the user in a printed format, via a website on the Internet, by email, SMS or mail, or delivered to a consultant. products. 25. Diagnostic system according to claim 14, characterized in that it binds the information from the classification matrix to at least one kit of products and / or a cosmetic treatment in connection with the kit. 26. Diagnostic system according to claim 14, characterized in that the compositions of the cosmetics stored in the database comprise at least one active ingredient and at least one physiologically appropriate vehicle.