FR2953712A1 - Treating and permanently deforming human keratin fibers, such as hair, comprises applying a reducing composition to fibers, dissolution of solid cosmetic composition having e.g. organic acids and applying effervescent cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Treating and permanently deforming keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair, comprises: (a) applying to the keratin fibers a reducing composition, to reduce the disulfide bonds of the keratin; (b) partial or total dissolution of a solid cosmetic composition, comprising e.g. ammonium salts, and organic acids; (c) applying to the keratin fibers of the optionally effervescent cosmetic composition for rinsing the keratin fibers, and (d) optional step of fixing by oxidation for reforming these bonds, for application to keratin fibers of an oxidizing composition. Treating and permanently deforming keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair, comprises: (a) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a reducing composition, to reduce the disulfide bonds of the keratin, where the keratin fibers are placed under mechanical tension before, during or after the application, preferably before; (b) a step of partial or total dissolution of a solid cosmetic composition, comprising one or more monovalent metal cation salts and/or ammonium salts, and one or more organic acids, where the salts are not organic acids salts in the cosmetic composition, and the salts are not surfactants; (c) a step of applying to the keratin fibers of the optionally effervescent cosmetic composition for rinsing the keratin fibers, and (d) optional step of fixing by oxidation for reforming these bonds, for application to keratin fibers of an oxidizing composition, where the process neither comprises rinsing with water between step (a) and (c), nor between the step (c) and (d). An independent claim is included for multi-compartment device or kit comprising: a first compartment containing a reducing composition; a second compartment comprising a cosmetic composition in solid form, optionally effervescent after mixing with an aqueous composition, comprising one or more monovalent metal cation salts and/or one or more ammonium salts, and one or more organic acids; and optionally a third compartment comprising an oxidizing composition.

Description

B09-2064EN GD / GL PR2009261 OA 09538 A company known as: L'OREAL Process for treating keratinous fibers using a cosmetic composition in solid form comprising at least one monovalent salt and at least one organic acid Invention of: SABBAGH Anne SOW Fatoumata The present invention relates to a process for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising a step of applying a reducing composition, a step of dissolving a cosmetic composition in solid form comprising one or more monovalent salts and one or more organic acids, a step of applying to the keratinous fibers of said cosmetic composition possibly effervescent which is obtained following the dissolution step, and optionally a step of applying an oxidizing composition. In particular, the invention relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers without fixation and to a process for deformation of keratin fibers using said cosmetic composition in solid form. The invention likewise relates to a device with several compartments or "kit" implementing said cosmetic composition. The most usual technique for obtaining a permanent deformation of the hair consists, in a first step, in opening the disulfide -SS- bonds of keratin (cystine) with a composition containing a suitable reducing agent. (Reduction step) then, after having rinsed the hair thus treated, generally with water, to reconstitute in a second time said disulfide bonds by applying, on hair previously put under tension (hair curlers and others) or shaped or smoothed by other means, an oxidizing composition (oxidation step, also called fixation) so as finally to give the hair the desired shape. This technique thus makes it possible to carry out indifferently either the waving of the hair (permanent process), or their straightening or their curing (smoothing process). The new form imposed on the hair by a chemical treatment as above is eminently durable over time and resists particularly the action of washing with water or shampoo, and this as opposed to simple conventional techniques of temporary deformation, such as styling. The reducing compositions that can be used for carrying out the first step of a permanent operation generally contain, as reducing agents, sulphites, bisulphites, alkylphosphines or, preferably, thiols. Among these, those commonly used are cysteine and its various derivatives, cysteamine and its derivatives, thiolactic acid or thioglycolic acid, their salts and their esters, especially glycerol thioglycolate. The oxidizing compositions necessary for carrying out the fixing step are most often hydrogen peroxide-based compositions. However, such a technique is not entirely satisfactory. Indeed, this technique is very effective to change the shape of the hair, but is very degrading for hair fibers.

Thus, for example, if the technique of permanent hair deformation described above is applied to hair previously subjected to artificial coloring, it causes degradation or stripping of this artificial coloring. Similarly, if a coloration is applied to hair permed according to the technique described above, the color obtained is very different from the color normally obtained on non-permed natural hair. Furthermore, the rinsing with water, between the reduction step and the oxidation step, also has the disadvantage of causing an over-inflation of the keratinous fiber. Such over-inflation often affects the cosmetic properties of keratinous fibers, in particular their gloss, their feel and their ability to smooth and disentangle.

Finally, generally, the reducing composition has an alkaline pH obtained by the presence of one or more alkaline agents. After the application of the reducing composition, it is generally rinsed thoroughly with water to remove any traces of alkaline residues.

This has the effect of increasing water consumption and releases to the environment. In order to overcome all the disadvantages described above, numerous alternatives have already been envisaged in the implementation of deformation processes of keratinous fibers.

For this purpose, the document US 6,173,717 describes a permanent hair deformation process which aims to prevent excessive curl of the hair and which comprises the application to the hair of a reducing composition, a pause time, an optional rinse with the hair. water, the application of an intermediate acidic aqueous composition comprising a salt, preferably divalent, an aliphatic organic acid and a betaine, the tensioning of the hair, a new pause time, and then the application of a composition oxidizing. Furthermore, EP 443 356 relates to a permanent hair deformation process comprising a reduction step, an intermediate rinsing step and an oxidation step. The intermediate rinsing step is carried out by means of an aqueous solution such that at no time during the rinsing, the diameter of the fibers does not increase by more than 30% with respect to the diameter of the fibers at the end of the step of reduction. In particular, the aqueous solution used for the intermediate rinsing step is an aqueous solution of sodium chloride. Similarly, the document FR 2 721 823 relates to a permanent hair deformation process comprising a step of applying to the hair an acid composition containing a carboxylic acid and / or one of its associated salts, a step of optionally rinsing with water, a step of applying a reducing composition, the tensioning of the hair being performed before during or after said application of the reducing composition or before the application of the acidic composition, a rinsing step with water, then a step of applying an oxidizing composition. In a variant, the document FR 2 718 351 proposes a method of permanent deformation of the keratin materials comprising a step of applying a reducing composition, the tensioning of the keratinous material being carried out before during or after said application, a step of rinsing with water, and a step of applying an acidic composition comprising a carboxylic acid, said method not comprising a chemical step of fixing by oxidation. The document EP 0 880 916 defines a permanent deformation process of the hair in which the hair is wound on rollers, a reduction composition is applied to the wound hair, it is allowed to act, the loops are treated, without prior rinsing with water with an acidic and aqueous intermediate rinsing composition containing an organic aliphatic acid and a hair care and conditioning component, the excess liquid of the loops is removed by buffering, allowed to act, rinsed optionally with water, the hair is treated before and / or after removal of the rollers by means of an oxidant-based fixer, and after a time of action, the hair fixer is removed by rinsing with water, or by washing with a shampoo. The intermediate rinse composition may contain a compound such as sodium cetyl stearyl sulphate or dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride. It has been observed that none of the processes described makes it possible to lead to the shaping of the keratin fibers in a completely satisfactory manner with respect to the problems mentioned above. Finally, the patent application FR 2908305 proposes a process for permanent deformation of keratinous fibers comprising a step of applying a reducing composition with tensioning of the fibers, a step of applying an aqueous acidic intermediate rinsing composition comprising at least one monovalent salt and at least one organic acid and a step of applying an oxidizing composition, said method not comprising a step of rinsing with water between the step of applying the reducing composition and the step of applying the acid rinsing composition, or between the step of applying the acid rinsing composition and the step of applying the oxidizing composition. It has been found that the use of such an aqueous composition for rinsing the keratinous fibers intermediately between the reduction step and the fixing step during the process described above makes it possible to improve the cosmetic properties of the keratin fibers while respecting their color. However, the use of this aqueous intermediate rinsing composition during this process has the disadvantage of being difficult to store, especially in hairdressing salons, and to be difficult to package in multi-compartment devices or kits used by consumers. On the other hand, in order to minimize the risk of contamination in aqueous intermediate rinse compositions, preservatives must be used and introduced into the rinse composition.

There is therefore a real need to have processes for shaping keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, which do not have all of the disadvantages described above, that is to say which use compositions which are easier to store and which do not require the use of preserving agents and which do not alter the coloring of the keratinous fibers and their cosmetic properties such as their softness, their gloss, their feel, their smoothing ability and disentangling. The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the use of a cosmetic composition in solid form, optionally effervescent after dissolution with the aid of an aqueous composition, serving as rinsing during a process for shaping keratinous fibers, comprising one or more salts of monovalent metal cations and / or one or more ammonium salts, and one or more organic acids, the said salt or salts not being one or more salts of the organic acid or acids present in said cosmetic composition, and the said salt or salts not being one or surfactants, allows to obtain the desired properties.

Indeed, it has been found that the use of the cosmetic compositions in solid form according to the invention makes it possible not to use preservatives and to be easier to store because such compositions have the advantage of occupying a volume storage more limited than aqueous compositions for intermediate rinsing in the keratinous fiber forming processes. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention also have the advantage of dissolving easily and quickly in an aqueous composition, in particular these cosmetic compositions can dissolve in less than five minutes, and the solutions obtained after dissolution are preferably transparent. For the purposes of the present invention, transparency is understood to mean a solution having a turbidity of less than 600 NTU and, preferably, ranging from 10 to 600 NTU, and even more preferably ranging from 20 to 400 NTU measured with the portable turbidimeter HACH Model 2100P to room temperature (25 ° C +/- 10 ° C). Preferably, it has been found that the volume of foam created by the dissolution of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is less than one third of the volume of water used for the dissolution, which makes the solution obtained easy to use. Furthermore, it has been found that the process of the invention makes it possible not to alter the coloration of the keratin fibers as well as their cosmetic properties. In particular, the process according to the invention makes it possible to improve the cosmetic properties of keratinous fibers, in particular their softness, their gloss, their feel, their ability to smooth and disentangle.

The present invention relates in particular to a process for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising: (a) a step of applying to the keratinous fibers of a reducing composition, for reducing the disulfide bonds of keratin, the keratin fibers being put under mechanical tension before, during or after said application, preferably before, then (b) a step of partial or total dissolution of a cosmetic composition in solid form, comprising one or more cation salts monovalent metal and / or one or more ammonium salts, and one or more organic acids, the said salt or salts not being one or salts of the said organic acid or acids present in the said cosmetic composition, and the said salt or salts; being not one or more surfactants, then (c) a step of application to the keratinous fibers of said cosmetic composition, if appropriate effervescent, obtained after step b), for rinsing the keratinous fibers, and optionally (d) a possible oxidation-fixing step, for reforming said bonds, by application to the keratin fibers of an oxidizing composition; said method not comprising a step of rinsing with water between (a) the step of applying the reducing composition and (c) the step of applying the cosmetic composition intended to rinse the keratin fibers, and between (c) the step of applying the cosmetic composition for rinsing the keratinous fibers and (d) the step of applying the oxidizing composition. According to the present invention, the cosmetic composition in solid form is partially or completely dissolved and is optionally effervescent aqueous composition. By "aqueous composition" is meant a "partially dissolved" composition containing the present invention, which the composition after mixing with a

means, in the sense of the present less water. is meant, in the sense of cosmetics in solid form is at least dissolved at 50% by weight, and preferably at 90% by weight, after mixing with an aqueous composition. Similarly, the present invention relates to a multi-compartment device or "kit" comprising the cosmetic composition in solid form according to the invention. Other objects and features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. According to a preferred embodiment, the reducing composition is allowed to act for 5 to 60 minutes, preferably for 5 to 30 minutes. The reducing composition used in the process according to the invention generally comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more reducing agents, preferably chosen from reducing agents of formula

Hs (X ') q (R')

where X 'is P, S or SO 2, q is 0 or 1, r is 1 or 2 or 3, s is 0 if X' is other than P and s is 1 when P is S or SO 2 and R 'is a linear, branched, saturated unsaturated hydrocarbon radical (C1-C20), optionally interrupted by a heteroatom, and optionally comprising substituents chosen from a hydroxyl group, a halogenated group, an amine group or a carboxy group, a group ((C1 -C30) alkoxy) carbonyl, an amido group, a ((C1-C30) alkyl) amino carbonyl group, a (C1-C30) acyl) amino group, a mono or dialkylamino group, a mono or dihydroxylamino group, or one of its salts in combination with a base. Preferably, the reducing agent (s) are chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, glycerol monothioglycolate, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteamine, N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, , thiomalic acid, pantheatin, 2,3-dimercaptosuccinic acid, N- (mercaptoalkyl) -cw-hydroxyalkylamides, N-mono or N, N-dialkylmercapto-4-butyramides, aminomercapto-alkylamides, derivatives of N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinamides and N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinimides, alkylamino mercaptoalkylamides, the azeotropic mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglyconate and (2-hydroxy-1-methyl) ethyl thioglycolate, the mercaptoalkylaminoamides, the N-mercapto-alkylalcanediamides and formamidine sulfinic acid derivatives, and their salts.

Even more preferentially, the reducing agent (s) are chosen from thioglycolic acid, cysteine or their salts. The reducing agent or agents generally represent from 0.05 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 20%, better still from 2 to 11% by weight relative to the total weight of the reducing composition.

In order to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair fibers or to reduce or prevent their degradation, the reducing composition used in the process according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic active agents. The cosmetic active agent (s) are generally chosen from volatile or non-volatile silicones, linear or cyclic, whether or not aminated, cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, peptides and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates, fatty substances, natural or synthetic waxes, and in particular fatty alcohols, swelling and penetration agents or agents making it possible to enhance the effectiveness of the reducing agent (s), as well as other active compounds such as anionic, cationic, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic agents, anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, natural or synthetic thickeners, associative or not, suspending agents, chelating agents, opacifying agents, dyes, sunscreens, vitamins or provitamins, mineral oils , vegetable or synthetic, as well as perfumes, and mixtures thereof. Examples of surfactants that may be mentioned are oleyl alcohol oxyethylenated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide, cocoyl amidopropyl betaine / glyceryl monolaurate mixture, lauryl dimethyl amine oxide, behenyl trimethylammonium, stearyl alcohol, glyceryl mono-distearate, alkyl (C13 / C15 70/30 50% linear) alkyl ether monoethanolamide, carboxylic ether (2OE), cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearyl alcohol oxyethylene mixture (30 OE) and oleocetyl dimethyl hydroxyethyl ammonium chloride. As opacifier, there may be mentioned for example the vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymer. As a fatty substance, there may be mentioned, for example, petroleum jelly.

As a thickener, mention may be made of cetyl alcohol and cetylstearyl alcohol. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups. The cationic polymers optionally present in the reducing composition used in the process according to the invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in the patent application EP-A-337. 354 and in French patents FR-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary amine groups and or quaternary may be part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto. The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5 × 10 6, and preferably between about 103 and 3 × 10 6. Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers.

These are known products. They are especially described in French Pat. Nos. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Among said polymers, mention may be made of: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one units of the following formulas (I), (II), (III) or (IV):

R3 R3 R3 NH A

N + R 4 / R 6 R 5 O (I) A 2 R 3 NH A in which: R 3, the same or or a radical CH 3; A, which may be identical or different, denote a different hydrogen atom, represent a linear or branched alkyl group, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 atoms. of carbon ; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R1 and R2, identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. Mention may in particular be made of homopolymer chloride of ethyl trimethyl ammonium methacrylate. The polymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Thus, among these polymers of family (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl holognide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, the copolymer of acrylamide and methosulphate of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, - vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers quaternized or otherwise, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755 "or the products referred to as" COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937 ". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers. / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP, and quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP, - crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl salts (C 1 -C 4) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonium such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, homo or the copolymerization being followed by a crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.

This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS. (2) The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1,492,597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

(3) Cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described especially in US Pat. No. 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl grafted grafts especially with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium. The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch.

(4) The cationic guar gums described more particularly in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL.

(5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are especially described in French Patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361. (6) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, a epilhalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functional groups, quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

(7) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,583,363. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz. (8) The polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in the patents US 3,227,615 and 2,961,347. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine.

(9) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (V) or (VI): (CH 2) k - (CH 2) t Wherein k and t are 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R7 and R8, independently of each other, denote a (V) Y20 alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a grouping lower amidoalkyl (C1-C4), or R7 and R8 may designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R7 and R8, independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French Patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406. Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by Calgon (and its counterparts of low weight average molecular weight) and the copolymers of sodium chloride. diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT 550". (10) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing recurring units having the formula: R10 R12 ùN + ùAluN + ùg1 (VII) R11 X R13 x

wherein R10, R11, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or R10, R11, R12 and R13, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R10, R11, R12 and R13 represent a substituted linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical. by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R14-D or -CO-NH-R14-D group where R14 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; Al and B1 represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more carbon atoms. oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; Al, R10 and R12 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; furthermore, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a - (CH2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- group in which D denotes: a) a radical glycol composition of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x -CH 2 -CH 2 - - [CH 2 -CH ( Wherein x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or alternatively the divalent radical -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-. Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100000.

Polymers of this type are described in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614 and 2,454,547. , 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027 .020. Polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the following formula (VIII) may be used more particularly: R 10 R 12 --N + - (CH 2) n N - (CH 2) p (VIII) 1 R 11 X R 13 X in which R 10, R 11, R 12 and R13, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers varying from approximately 2 to 8 and X- is an anion derived from a mineral acid or organic. We can mention in particular the MEXOMERE PO marketed by the company CHIMEX. (11) Quaternary polyammonium compounds consisting of repeating units of formula (IX): ## STR2 ## in which wherein p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 6, D may be zero or may represent a group - (CH 2) r - CO- wherein r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, X- is an anion; Such polymers may be prepared according to the methods described in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,157,388, 4,702,906, 4,719,282. They are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122,324.

Among them, there may be mentioned, for example, the products "Mirapol A 15", "Mirapol AD1", "Mirapol AZ1" and "Mirapol 175" sold by Miranol.

(12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.

(13) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary, or oxyethylenated coconut polyamines (15 OE).

Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of the families (1), (9), (10) (11) and (14) and even more preferentially the polymers with repeating units of the following formulas (W) and (U): CH 3 CH 3 (CH 2) 3 -N + -ECH 2) 6 1 CI-I CI-CH 3 CH 3

and in particular those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is between 9500 and 9900; (W)

CH3 C2H5 1 1 Br (CH2) 3 -1 + B ~ CH2) 3] (U) CH3 C2H5 and in particular those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is about 1200. The concentration of polymer ( s) cationic (s) in the reducing composition used in the process according to the invention may vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 5% and more preferably still 0.1 to 3%. The amphoteric polymers optionally present in the reducing composition used in the process according to the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising K and M units statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where K denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and M denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer having one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups, or K and M may denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulphobetaines; K and M may also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon radical, or K and M are part of a chain of an α, β-dicarboxylic ethylene polymer having one of the carboxylic groups reacted with a polyamine having one or more primary or secondary amine groups. Amphoteric compounds corresponding to the definition given above, which are more particularly preferred, are chosen from the following polymers: (1) The polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid , methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derivative from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as, more particularly dialkylamino alkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylamino alkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in US Pat. No. 3,836,537. Mention may also be made of the sodium acrylate / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold under the name Polyquart KE 3033 by Henkel. The vinyl compound may also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. The copolymers of acrylic acid and of the latter monomer are sold under the names MERQUAT 280, MERQUAT 295 and MERQUAT PLUS 3330 by the company CALGON. (2) polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with an alkyl radical, b) with at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups reagents, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituent esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate. The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butyl-acrylamide and N-tert-octyl-acrylamide. N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.

The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides. Preferred basic comonomers are methacrylates of aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl. The copolymers whose CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) name is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butyl-aminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company National Starch, are particularly used. (3) The partially or completely crosslinked and alkylated polyamino amides derived from polyamino amides of the general formula: ## STR2 ## in which R represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, a double or mono-dicarboxylic aliphatic acid; an ethylenic bond, an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a radical derived from the addition of any of said acids with a primary bis or secondary bis amine, and Z denotes a radical of a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mole%, the H (CH 2) x 'D radical where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2 this radical derived from diethylene triamine, triethylene tetraamine or dipropylene triamine; b) in the proportions of 0 to 40 mole%, the radical (XI) above, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the radical derived from piperazine: / ùN N c) in the proportions of 0 to 20 mole%, the radical -NH- (CH 2) 6 -NH- derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamines being crosslinked by addition of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide and alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone or their salts. The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic acid, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic acid and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic acid, terephthalic acid, acids with ethylenic double bond such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid. The alkanesultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane or butane sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts. (4) Polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula: ## STR5 ## in which R 20 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate or acrylamide group; or methacrylamide, y and z represent an integer of 1 to 3, R 21 and R 22 represent a hydrogen, methyl, ethyl or propyl atom, R 23 and R 24 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in such a way that the sum carbon atoms in R23 and R24 do not exceed 10. Polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate. By way of example, mention may be made of the copolymer of methyl methacrylate / methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethylmethacrylate such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ. (5) polymers derived from chitosan having monomeric units corresponding to the following formulas (XIII), (XIV), (XV): ## STR2 ## wherein: ## STR2 ## ) C = 0 R25-000H (XV) the pattern (XIII) being present in proportions between 0 and 30%, the pattern (XIV) in proportions between 5 and 50% and the pattern F in proportions between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this unit (XV), R 25 represents a radical of formula: ## STR2 ## in which if q = 0, R 26, R 27 and R 28, which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or R26 H / HO \ amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and / or optionally substituted by one or more amine or hydroxyl groups; , carboxyl, alkylthio, sulfonic acid, an alkylthio radical whose alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of radicals R26, R27 and R28 being in this case a hydrogen atom; or if q = 1, R 26, R 27 and R 28 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids. (6) The polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan sold under the name "Evalsan" by the company Jan Dekker. (7) Polymers such as those described for example in French Patent 1,400,366 and containing the unit (XVI): T'29 (CH ùCH2) (XVI) in which R29 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O radical, CH3CH2O, phenyl, R30 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl, R31 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl, R32 denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl or a radical; having the formula: -R33-N (R31) 2, wherein R33 represents a group -CH2-CH2, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH (CH3) -, R31 having the meanings mentioned above, than the higher homologues of these radicals and containing up to 6 carbon atoms, (8) amphoteric polymers of the type -DXDX- selected from: a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on the compounds comprising at least one unit of formula: -DXDXD- (XVII) where D denotes a dicalu N and X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E', which may be identical or different, denotes a divalent radical which is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical having up to 7 carbon atoms in the unsubstituted or substituted main chain by hydroxyl groups and which may further comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide groups, alcohol, ester and / or urethane; b) polymers of formula: -D-X-D-X- (XVIII)

where D denotes a radical and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; E having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a divalent radical which is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals and having a or a plurality of nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an optionally interrupted alkyl chain by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betaineized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or chloroacetate of soda. (9) (C1-C5) alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with an N, N-dialkanolamine. These copolymers may also comprise other vinylic comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam. The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to the invention are those of the family (1). According to the invention, the amphoteric polymer (s) may represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight. of the total weight of the reducing composition. The anionic polymers optionally present in the reducing composition used in the process according to the invention are polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acids, and having a weight-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5,000,000. carboxylic acids are provided by unsaturated monocarboxylic acid or diacid monomers such as those having the formula R33 (A ') n COOH R35 (XIX) in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A' denotes a methylene group, optionally linked at the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, R33 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R34 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, R35 denotes a hydrogen atom, an inferior alkyl group ur, a -CH 2 -COOH group, phenyl or benzyl. In the formula (XIX) above, a lower alkyl group preferably contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and denotes in particular the methyl and ethyl groups. The anionic polymers with carboxylic groups that are preferred according to the invention are: A) homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts, and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL® E or K by ALLIED COLLOID, ULTRAHOLD® by BASF Copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN® 421, 423 or 425 by the company HERCULES, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids. B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,222,944 and German Application No. 2,330,956, copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an acrylamide unit optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated as described in particular in US Pat. Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371 or proposed under the name QUADRAMER® by AMERICAN CYANAMID. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C 1 -C 4 alkyl methacrylate and the copolymer of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name LUVIMER® MAEX by the company BASF.

C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as the allyl or methallyl ester, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers may optionally be grafted and crosslinked, or a vinyl ester, allyl or methallylique a carboxylic acid α or β-cyclic. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents Nos. 1,222,944, 1,580,545, 2,265,782, 2,265,781, 1,564,110 and 2,439,798. Commercial products in this class are resins 28-29. 30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 sold by NATIONAL STARCH D) Polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers ues, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters; these polymers can be esterified. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 2,047,398, 2,723,248, 2,102,113 and GB 839,805, and in particular those sold under the names GANTREZ® AN or ES by the company ISP. Polymers also falling into this class are copolymers of maleic anhydride, citraconic anhydride, itaconic anhydride and an allylic or methallyl ester optionally containing an acrylamide, methacrylamide, an α-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid group. or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions are monoesterified or monoamidified. These polymers are for example described in French patents 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the applicant.

E) Polyacrylamides having carboxylate groups. The polymers comprising the sulphonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrene-sulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic or acrylamido-alkylsulphonic units. These polymers may be chosen in particular from: polyvinylsulfonic acid salts having a molecular weight of between about 1,000 and 100,000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids, and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone; the salts of polystyrenesulphonic acid, the sodium salts, having a molecular weight of approximately 500 000 and of approximately 100 000 sold respectively under the names Flexan® 500 and Flexan® 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2198719; polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in US Pat. No. 4,128,631, and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulphonic acid sold under the name COSMEDIA POLYMER® HSP 1180 by Henkel. The nonionic polymers optionally present in the reducing composition used in the process according to the invention may be chosen from: homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; polyalkyloxazolines such as the polyethyloxazolines proposed by Dow Chemical under the names PEOX® 50,000, PEOX® 200,000 and PEOX® 500,000; homopolymers of vinyl acetate such as the product sold under the name APPRETAN® EM by the company Hoechst or the product sold under the name RHODOPAS® A 012 by the company RHONE POULENC; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester such as the product sold under the name RHODOPAS® AD 310 from RHONE POULENC; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, such as the product sold under the name APPRETAN® TV by Hoechst; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate, such as the product sold under the name APPRETAN® MB EXTRA by the company Hoechst; copolymers of polyethylene and of maleic anhydride; homopolymers of alkyl acrylates and homopolymers of alkyl methacrylates such as the product sold under the name MICROPEARL® RQ 750 by the company MATSUMOTO or the product sold under the name LUHYDRAN® A 848 S by the company BASF; copolymers of acrylic esters such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products offered by the company Rohm & Haas under the names PRIMAL® AC-261 K and EUDRAGIT® NE D, by BASF under the names ACRONAL® 601, LUHYDRAN® LR 8833 or 8845, by HOECHST under the names APPRETAN® N 9213 or N921 2; copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; mention may be made of the products sold under the names Nipol® LX 531 8 by the company Nippon ZEON or those sold under the name CJ 0601 8 by the company Rohm &Haas; polyurethanes, such as the products sold under the names ACRYSOL® RM 1020 or ACRYSOL® RM 2020 by the company Rohm & Haas, the products Uraflex® XP 401 UZ and Uraflex® XP 402 UZ by the company DSM Resins; copolymers of alkyl acetate and urethane such as the product 8538-33 by the company National Starch; polyamides, such as the product ESTAPOR® LO 11 proposed by the company RHONE POULENC; chemically modified or unmodified nonionic guar gums.

Unmodified nonionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name VIDOGUM® GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE and under the name JAGUAR® C by the company MEYHALL. The modified nonionic guar gums, which can be used according to the invention, are preferably modified with C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups. By way of example, mention may be made of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and may, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum in a controlled manner. to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar® HP8, Jaguar® HP60 and Jaguar® HP120, Jaguar® DC 293 and Jaguar® HP 105 by the company Meyhall, or under the name GALACTASOL® 4H4FD2 by AQUALON.

The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. The reducing composition used in the process according to the invention may also contain one or more silicones. The silicones optionally present in the reducing composition used in the process according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes insoluble in the composition and may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academie Press. Silicones can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably 4 to 5.

It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHONE POULENC, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by CARBIDE UNION, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHONE POULENC, as well as their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of chemical structure: ## STR1 ## Examples of cyclic silicone mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1, may also be mentioned. (Hexa-2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; with D ": (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under "SH 200" by TORAY SILICONE Silicones in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol 91, Jan. 76, p 27-32 - TODD & BYERS Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics Nonvolatile silicones, and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used. selected from among the polyalkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups having a viscosity of 5.10-6 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25 ° C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1 m2 / s. The viscosity of the silicones is for example measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL oils marketed by RHONE POULENC, such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000 oil; oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by RHONE POULENC; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, the DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst; - VISCASIL oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name), such as the oils of the 48 series of the company Rhone-Poulenc. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing aminoethyl aminopropyl and alpha-omega silanol groups.

In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are poly (C1-C20) alkylsiloxanes. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl methylphenylsiloxanes and linear and / or branched polydimethyl diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include by way of example the products sold under the following names: the SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHONE POULENC; . RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 series oils from RHONE POULENC; DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; . silicones of the PK series from BAYER, such as the product PK20; . silicones of the PN and PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; . certain oils of the series SF of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. The silicone gums that may be present in the reducing composition of the process according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having number average molecular weights between 200 000 and 1 000 000 used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or their mixtures. Mention may be made more particularly of the following products: polydimethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums. More particularly useful products are the following mixtures: - mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the end of the chain (called dimethiconol according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature) and a cyclic poly-dimethylsiloxane (called cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning; mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500 000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s.

This product preferably comprises 15% of SE gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the reducing composition of the process according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R2SiO212, R3SiO112 , RSiO312 and SiO412 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower alkyl radical C1-C4, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical. Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shinetsu.

The organomodified silicones optionally present in the reducing composition of the process according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon radical.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C12) methicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; mention may be made of amino silicones containing alkoxy groups such as the silicone BELSIL AOM LOG 1 marketed by WACKER; thiol groups such as the products sold under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; hydroxyl groups such as the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes described in the French patent application FR-A-85 16334; acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 4,957,732; anionic groups of the carboxylic type, for example in the products described in patent EP 186 507 of the company Chisso Corporation, or of alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shinetsu; 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulphate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL 5201" and "ABIL S255"; hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from Dow Corning.

As nonionic silicone, mention may be made of the poly dimethylsiloxane / aminopolyether block polymer (80/20). As indicated above, the cosmetic composition in solid form comprises one or more salts of monovalent metal cations and / or one or more ammonium salts, and one or more organic acids, the said salt or salts not being one or more salts of the or said organic acids present in said cosmetic composition, and said salt or salts not being one or surfactants. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "ammonium salt" is intended to mean an NH 4 + salt. By salt that is not a surfactant, the term "salt" in the sense of the present invention is intended to mean a salt which does not contain an aliphatic fatty chain of at least 10 carbon atoms. When the monovalent metal cation salt (s) and / or the ammonium salts are organic salts, the organic part of the salt (s) generally contains less than 10 carbon atoms, preferably less than 10, more preferably between 2 and 6. Generally, the molecular weight of the organic salts is less than or equal to 250 g / mol.

Examples that may be mentioned are organic ammonium salts, in particular ammonium citrate. The monovalent metal cation is preferably selected from the cations of the metals of column 1 of the Periodic Table of Elements and the Ag + cation.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the salt or salts included in the cosmetic composition are mineral salts. Mention may be made in particular as salts included in the cosmetic composition according to the invention sodium chloride NaCl, ammonium chloride NH4C1, potassium chloride KC1 and silver chloride AgC1. Preferably, the cosmetic composition in solid form comprises one or more salts of monovalent metal cations, in particular sodium chloride and sodium carbonate. Even more preferentially, the monovalent metal cation salt is sodium chloride. Generally, the salt or salts included in the cosmetic composition represent from 0.1 to 90%, preferably from 1 to 80%, better still from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition in solid form. The organic acid or acids present in the cosmetic composition in solid form are generally chosen from acids comprising one or more carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid functional group. They may contain other chemical functions, in particular hydroxy or amino functions. They can be saturated or unsaturated. There may be mentioned in particular acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, succinic acid, taurine and citric acid. Preferably, the organic acid is citric acid. The organic acid or acids generally represent from 0.1 to 90%, preferably from 0.5 to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In the case of cosmetic compositions in solid form capable of leading to effervescence after dissolution with an aqueous composition, at least one of the monovalent metal cation salts and / or one of the ammonium salts may be a bicarbonate, preferably a bicarbonate of sodium as effervescence generating agents. The effervescence generating agent (s) may also be a polyvalent metal bicarbonate.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition in solid form contains at least one bicarbonate, in particular sodium bicarbonate. The concentration of bicarbonate in the cosmetic composition in solid form generally represents from 0.1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 80% by weight, and more particularly from 1 to 50% by weight, relative to the weight total of the cosmetic composition in solid form. The solid cosmetic composition generally contains all the usual ingredients of solid compositions and, in particular, binders such as silica, sugars, anti-caking agents. As binder (s), there may be mentioned silica, glucose, lactose, starch, gums, in particular gum arabic and carboxymethylcellulose. It is possible to use, in particular microcrystalline cellulose, for example that sold under the trade name AVICEL by the company FMC Corporation. In order to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair fibers or to reduce or avoid their degradation, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic active agents, such as those described for the reducing composition. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, and / or one or more silicones. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention does not comprise preservatives. According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition obtained after dissolution has a pH generally between 2 and 7, preferably between 3 and 5. Preferably, the cosmetic composition obtained is allowed to act after dissolution for 30 seconds to 30 minutes on the fibers. keratin.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition in solid form is completely dissolved and optionally effervescent after mixing with an aqueous composition. The cosmetic composition used in the process according to the invention may be in the form of pebbles, granules, tablets or beads. Preferably, the cosmetic composition used in the process according to the invention is in the form of granules. More particularly, the present invention relates to a method of permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair comprising: (a) a step of applying to the keratin fibers of a reducing composition, to reduce the bonds disulphides of keratin, the keratin fibers being put under mechanical tension before, during or after said application, preferably before, then (b) a step of partial or total dissolution of the cosmetic composition as defined above, (c) a step of application to the keratinous fibers of said optionally effervescent cosmetic composition obtained after step (b) for rinsing the keratinous fibers, (d) a possible oxidation fixing step, for reforming said bonds, by application to the fibers keratinic compounds of an oxidizing composition; said method not comprising a step of rinsing with water between (a) the step of applying the reducing composition and (c) the step of applying the cosmetic composition intended to rinse the keratin fibers, and between (c) the step of applying the cosmetic composition for rinsing the keratinous fibers and (d) the step of applying the oxidizing composition. The oxidizing composition comprises one or more oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, alkaline bromates, polythionates, persalts, such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. The oxidizing agent or agents generally represent from 0.1 to 8%, preferably from 0.2 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

Preferably, when the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution, the oxidizing composition used in the process according to the invention contains one or more stabilizing agents for hydrogen peroxide. Mention may in particular be made of pyrophosphates of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals, such as tetrasodium pyrophosphate, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal stannates, phenacetin or salts of acids and oxyquinoline, such as sulphate. oxyquinoline (8-hydroxyquinoline sulfate). More advantageously still, at least one stannate is used in combination or not with at least one pyrophosphate. The stabilizing agent (s) for hydrogen peroxide generally represent from 0.0001% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition. In order to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair fibers or to reduce or avoid their degradation, the oxidizing composition used in the process according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic active agents, such as those mentioned previously in subject of the reductive composition. Generally, the pH of the oxidizing composition ranges from 1 to 13, preferably from 1.5 to 8, more preferably from 1.5 to 5. The vehicle of the reducing and oxidizing compositions used in the process according to the invention is preferably a aqueous medium consisting of water and may advantageously contain cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, including more particularly, alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, glycerol, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. The organic solvents may then be present in concentrations of between approximately 0.1 and 20% and, preferably, between approximately 1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the reducing composition and of the oxidizing composition which are used in the process according to the invention can be obtained and / or adjusted conventionally by adding either alkaline agents, such as, for example, ammonia, monoethanolamine or diethanolamine. , triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkaline or ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, an organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate, or an alkaline hydroxide, all these compounds can of course be taken alone or as a mixture, or acidifying agents such as for example hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid, citric acid and phosphoric acid. The reducing composition and the oxidizing composition used in the process according to the invention may be independently of the others in the form of a lotion, a gel, a mousse, a cream or a paste. As explained above, the permanent deformation process according to the invention comprises a step of applying a reducing composition to the keratinous fibers, in particular to the hair, a step of applying the composition of the rinsing of the keratin fibers, which is obtained from the dissolution of the cosmetic composition in solid form, preferably in powder form agglomerated or not, according to the invention, then a step of applying an oxidizing composition. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the step of applying the reducing composition and / or the step of applying the composition for rinsing the keratinous fibers and / or the fixing step is carried out (nt) under heating or is (are) immediately followed by heating. Generally, the process according to the invention comprises, after the oxidation-fixing step, a step of rinsing the keratinous fibers with water and / or by means of a residue of the rinsing composition obtained from the composition cosmetic in solid form. When it is desired to make a perm, mechanical means such as curlers are preferably used, the reducing composition being applied before, during or after the means for shaping the hair, preferably after. Preferably, the reducing composition is applied to wet hair previously wound on rolls having 2 to 30 mm in diameter. The composition can also be applied as the hair is rolled up. Generally, the reducing composition is then allowed to act for a period of 5 to 60 minutes, preferably for 5 to 30 minutes.

It is also possible, after application of the reducing composition, to subject the hair to heat treatment by heating at a temperature of between 30 and 250 ° C. during all or part of the exposure time. In practice, this operation can be conducted by means of a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, a round iron or a flat iron, an infrared dispenser and other heating appliances . In particular, it is possible to use, as a means for heating and shaping the hair, a heating iron at a temperature between 60 and 220 ° C. and preferably between 120 and 200 ° C., the use of heating iron after the intermediate rinsing step following the application of the reducing composition. The curler itself can be heated. The solid cosmetic composition as defined above is then dissolved in water and then the cosmetic composition is applied to the hair, preferably once completely dissolved. This composition can be left for 30 seconds to 30 minutes. The oxidizing composition for reforming the disulfide bonds of the keratin is then applied to the coiled or unrolled hair, generally during a laying time of 2 to 15 minutes. After removing the rollers, the hair is usually rinsed thoroughly, usually with water. The water rinse may optionally be replaced by rinsing with the remainder of the intermediate rinse composition, or following the rinsing with water of a rinse with the remainder of the intermediate rinse composition. When it is desired to perform hair straightening or hair straightening, the hair reducing composition is applied to the hair, and then the hair is subjected to a mechanical deformation allowing the hair to be fixed in its new shape by a hair straightening operation. with a comb with large teeth, with the back of a comb, by hand or with a brush. A laying time is generally from 5 to 60 minutes, preferably from 15 to 45 minutes. The cosmetic composition obtained after dissolution is then applied to the hair in order to rinse them. This application can also be followed by a heating treatment, in particular with the aid of an iron. The smoothing of the hair can also be carried out, in whole or in part, with a heating iron between 60 and 220 ° C, and preferably between 120 and 200 ° C. Then the oxidizing composition as defined above is applied, which is generally allowed to act for about 2 to 15 minutes, and then the hair is generally rinsed thoroughly, generally with water and / or using the remainder of the composition of the composition. intermediate rinse. Similarly, the present invention also relates to a process for treating non-fixing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising: (a) a step of applying to the keratin fibers a reducing composition, for reducing the disulphide bonds of keratin, the keratinous fibers being subjected to mechanical tension before, during or after said application, preferably before, then (b) a step of partial or total dissolution of the cosmetic composition as defined above, (c) a step of applying to the keratinous fibers of said optionally effervescent cosmetic composition obtained after step (b) for rinsing the keratin fibers, said method not comprising a water rinsing step between (a) the step of applying the reducing composition and (c) the step of applying the cosmetic composition for rinsing the fibers keratin. For the purposes of the present invention, a process for treating keratin fibers without fixation means without additional application of a composition containing a chemical oxidant such as, for example, hydrogen peroxide or a bromate. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the step of applying the reducing composition and / or the step of applying the composition intended to rinse the keratinous fibers is carried out under heating or is are) immediately followed by heating. Preferably, the reducing composition is applied to wet hair previously wound on rolls having 2 to 30 mm in diameter. The composition can also be applied as the hair is rolled up. Generally, the reducing composition is then allowed to act for a period of 5 to 60 minutes, preferably for 5 to 30 minutes. It is also possible, after application of the reducing composition, to subject the hair to heat treatment by heating at a temperature of between 30 and 250 ° C. during all or part of the exposure time. In practice, this operation can be conducted by means of a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, a round iron or a flat iron, an infrared dispenser and other heating appliances . In particular, it is possible to use, as a means for heating and shaping the hair, a heating iron at a temperature between 60 and 220 ° C. and preferably between 120 and 200 ° C., the use of heating iron after the step of applying the intermediate rinsing composition following the application of the reducing composition. The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device or "kit" comprising a first compartment containing a reducing composition, a second compartment comprising a cosmetic composition in solid form, optionally effervescent after mixing with an aqueous composition, comprising one or more cation salts monovalent metal and / or one or more ammonium salts, and one or more organic acids, the said salt or salts not being one or salts of the said organic acid or acids present in the said cosmetic composition, and the said salt or salts; being not one or more surfactants, and possibly a third compartment comprising an oxidizing composition.

According to one embodiment, the multi-compartment device or "kit" does not comprise a third compartment comprising an oxidizing composition. According to one embodiment, the multi-compartment device or "kit" comprises a third compartment enclosing an oxidizing composition. The following example serves to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE

1. Example of effervescent solid composition The following composition according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed in grams. This composition is in the form of granules. Composition in the form of granules Sodium carbonate 12.6g Citric acid 50g Sodium chloride 25g Glucose 12.4g 2. Preparation of a composition from

40 grams of the previously prepared granules are dispersed in 1 liter of water. It is observed that the dissolution of these granules causes effervescence and in a few minutes, a clear solution with pH = 3.6 is obtained.

3. Application of the composition

The hair is washed beforehand and then wrung with a towel. We curl the hair on hair curlers. A reducing composition sold under the name "Dulcia tonica AHA reducing lotion" by L'Oréal Professionnel is applied to all of the coiled hair. After a break of 10 minutes, half of the hair is rinsed 5110 abundantly under running water. The other half of the hair is rinsed with the effervescent solution according to the invention. A fixing composition is then applied to all the coiled hair.

After a 5-minute break, curlers are curled, the hair is massaged for a few minutes, then rinsed with running water. On half of the hair which has been rinsed with the composition according to the invention, it is found that the fibers are softer, more slippery, and after drying, the fibers have more body and elasticity. In addition, it is found that the hair is less damaged by the deformation process according to the invention.

Claims (13)

REVENDICATIONS1. Process for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising: (a) a step of application to the keratinous fibers of a reducing composition, for reducing the disulfide bonds of keratin, keratinous fibers being mechanically tensioned before, during or after said application, preferably before, then (b) a step of partially or completely dissolving a cosmetic composition in solid form, comprising one or more salts of monovalent metal cations and / or a or several ammonium salts, and one or more organic acids, said salt or salts not being one or salts of said organic acid or acids present in said cosmetic composition, and said salt or salts not being one or more surfactants; active, and then (c) a step of applying to the keratinous fibers of said possibly effervescent cosmetic composition obtained after step (b) in ur rinsing the keratinous fibers, and possibly (d) a possible oxidation fixing step, for reforming said bonds, by application to the keratin fibers of an oxidizing composition; said method not comprising a step of rinsing with water between (a) the step of applying the reducing composition and (c) the step of applying the cosmetic composition intended to rinse the keratin fibers, and between (c) the step of applying the cosmetic composition for rinsing the keratinous fibers and (d) the step of applying the oxidizing composition. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the reducing composition is allowed to act for 5 to 60 minutes, preferably for 5 to 30 minutes. 3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the reducing composition comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more reducing agents preferably chosen from reducing agents of formula Hs (X ') q (R') r in where X 'is P, S or SO2, q is 0 or 1, r is 1, 2 or 3, s is 0 if X' is other than P and s is 1 when P is S or SO2 and R 'is a linear, branched, saturated unsaturated hydrocarbon radical (C1-C20), optionally interrupted by a heteroatom, and optionally comprising substituents chosen from a hydroxyl group, a halogenated group, an amine group or a carboxy group, a (C 1 -C 2) group; C30) alkoxy) carbonyl, an amido group, a ((C1-C30) alkyl) amino carbonyl group, a (C1-C30) acyl) amino group, a mono or dialkylamino group, a mono or dihydroxylamino group, or a of its salts in combination with a base. 4. Process according to claim 3, characterized in that the reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, glycerol monothioglycolate, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteamine, N-propionyl- cysteamine, cysteine, N-acetyl-cysteine, thiomalic acid, pantheatin, 2,3-dimercaptosuccinic acid, N- (mercaptoalkyl) -w-hydroxyalkylamides, N-mono or N, N-dialkylmercapto -4-butyramides, aminomercapto-alkylamides, N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinamic acid derivatives and N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinimides, alkylamino mercaptoalkylamides, the azeotropic mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglyconate and (2-hydroxy thioglycolate 1-methyl) ethyl, mercaptoalkylaminoamides, N-mercaptoalkylalcanediamides and formamidine sulfinic acid derivatives, and their salts. 5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the salt or salts of monovalent metal cations are chosen from NaCl, NH4Cl, KCl, and AgCl, and preferably NaCl. 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic acid or acids are chosen from saturated or unsaturated acids containing one or more carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid functions. 7.Procédé according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic acid or acids are chosen from acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, phthalic acid, maleic acid, succinic acid and citric acid, preferably citric acid. 8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic composition further comprises one or more cationic polymers, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric, and / or one or more silicones. 9.Procédé according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains one or more effervescence generating salts, preferably sodium bicarbonate. 10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxidizing composition comprises one or more oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, alkaline bromates, polythionates, persalts, such as perborates and percarbonates. and persulfates. 11. A process for treating non-fixing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising (a) a step of applying to the keratinous fibers of a reducing composition, for reducing the disulfide bonds of keratin, the keratinous fibers being put under mechanical tension before, during or after said application, preferably before, then (b) a step of partial or total dissolution of the cosmetic composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims, (c) a step of applying to the keratinous fibers of said cosmetic composition, optionally effervescent, obtained after step (b), for rinsing the keratinous fibers, said method not comprising a step of rinsing with water between (a) l step of applying the reducing composition and (c) the step of applying the cosmetic composition for rinsing the kerat fibers iniquitous. 12. Process for the permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising: (a) a step of application to the keratinous fibers of a reducing composition, for reducing the disulfide bonds of keratin, the keratin fibers being put under mechanical tension before, during or after said application, preferably before, then (b) a step of partial or total dissolution of the cosmetic composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 7, ( c) a step of applying to the keratinous fibers of said optionally effervescent cosmetic composition obtained after step (b) for rinsing the keratinous fibers, then (d) a possible oxidation fixing step, for reforming said bonds, by application on keratinous fibers of an oxidizing composition; said method not comprising a step of rinsing with water between (a) the step of applying the reducing composition and (c) the step of applying the cosmetic composition intended to rinse the keratin fibers, and between (c) the step of applying the cosmetic composition for rinsing the keratinous fibers and (d) the step of applying the oxidizing composition. 13. Multi-compartment device or "kit" comprising a first compartment containing a reducing composition, a second compartment comprising a cosmetic composition in solid form, optionally effervescent after mixing with an aqueous composition, comprising one or more salts of monovalent metal cations and / or one or more ammonium salts, and one or more organic acids, said salt or salts not being one or salts of said organic acid or acids present in said cosmetic composition, and said salt or salts not being one or more surfactants, and optionally a third compartment comprising an oxidizing composition. 10