FR2953040A1 - DEVICE FOR THE CHEMICAL FORMULATION OF PERFUMES WITH HIGH CONCENTRATION OF NATURAL INGREDIENTS WITHOUT ALLERGENS TO BE DECLARED - Google Patents
DEVICE FOR THE CHEMICAL FORMULATION OF PERFUMES WITH HIGH CONCENTRATION OF NATURAL INGREDIENTS WITHOUT ALLERGENS TO BE DECLARED Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2953040A1 FR2953040A1 FR0905598A FR0905598A FR2953040A1 FR 2953040 A1 FR2953040 A1 FR 2953040A1 FR 0905598 A FR0905598 A FR 0905598A FR 0905598 A FR0905598 A FR 0905598A FR 2953040 A1 FR2953040 A1 FR 2953040A1
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- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- configurations
- allergens
- raw materials
- olfactory
- database
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Classifications
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
- C11B—PRODUCING, e.g. BY PRESSING RAW MATERIALS OR BY EXTRACTION FROM WASTE MATERIALS, REFINING OR PRESERVING FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES, e.g. LANOLIN, FATTY OILS OR WAXES; ESSENTIAL OILS; PERFUMES
- C11B9/00—Essential oils; Perfumes
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
- C11B—PRODUCING, e.g. BY PRESSING RAW MATERIALS OR BY EXTRACTION FROM WASTE MATERIALS, REFINING OR PRESERVING FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES, e.g. LANOLIN, FATTY OILS OR WAXES; ESSENTIAL OILS; PERFUMES
- C11B9/00—Essential oils; Perfumes
- C11B9/02—Recovery or refining of essential oils from raw materials
- C11B9/022—Refining
Landscapes
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Wood Science & Technology (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Fats And Perfumes (AREA)
Abstract
L'invention concerne un dispositif permettant de résoudre le problème technique de formulation des parfums naturels qui contient naturellement beaucoup des allergènes. Le nombre des combinaisons possible est extrêmement élevé. Les bases de données des matières premières (1) servent à constituer des configurations (2), qui seront évaluées de manière multicritères (3) pour permettre de proposer des configurations verticales et horizontales(4) aboutissant à un nombre limitée des configurations olfactives (5), prêtes à être évaluées. Le dispositif selon l'invention est particulièrement destiné à la création des parfums naturels sans allergènes à déclarer, autrement dit à une nouvelle classe des parfums « les naturels sans allergènes ».The invention relates to a device for solving the technical problem of formulation of natural fragrances that naturally contains many allergens. The number of possible combinations is extremely high. The databases of the raw materials (1) serve to constitute configurations (2), which will be evaluated in a multi-criteria manner (3) to make it possible to propose vertical and horizontal configurations (4) resulting in a limited number of olfactory configurations (5). ), ready to be evaluated. The device according to the invention is particularly intended for the creation of natural fragrances without allergens to declare, in other words to a new class of fragrances "the natural without allergens".
Description
-1- Dispositif de formulation chimique des parfums à forte concentration d'ingrédients naturels sans allergènes à déclarer La présente invention concerne un dispositif de formulation chimique des parfums à forte concentration des matières premières naturelles et sans allergènes à déclarer. The present invention relates to a device for chemical formulation of perfumes with a high concentration of natural raw materials and without allergens to declare.
La création des parfums composés avec des matières premières naturelles conduit à obtenir des parfums à forte concentration d'allergènes. Or la directive européenne du 7ieme amendement oblige les fabricants de parfums à inscrire sur leur conditionnement les 26 produits allergènes présents dans la composition à plus de l0ppm (soit 0,001%). The creation of perfumes with natural raw materials leads to fragrances with a high concentration of allergens. However, the European Directive of the 7th Amendment requires fragrance manufacturers to include on their packaging the 26 allergenic products present in the composition at more than 10 ppm (ie 0.001%).
Le dispositif selon l'invention permet de remédier à cet inconvénient. Il permet de faire une sélection des matières premières synthétiques, mais surtout naturels, spécifiques qui seront potentiellement utilisables et de bâtir ensuite des configurations conduisant au produits finis sans aucun allergène à déclarer. The device according to the invention overcomes this disadvantage. It allows to make a selection of synthetic raw materials, but especially natural, specific that will be potentially usable and then build configurations leading to finished products without any allergen to declare.
Si l'utilisation des matières premières naturelles sans allergènes ne pose pas de problèmes particuliers hormis les réactions chimiques éventuelles (estérification, ou liaison hydrogène par exemple) il faut obtenir d'autres matières premières ne comportant pas d'allergènes alors qu'habituellement elles en comportent. Le dispositif permet d'utiliser des techniques de séparation des composants, tels la distillation fractionnée, mais d'autres techniques possibles, pour séparer les parties qui comportent des allergènes des autres parties qui n'en comportent pas. La base de données des matières premières potentielles est ensuite structurée en fonction de différentes fonctions chimiques : alcools, acides, aldéhydes, cétones et esters principalement. If the use of natural raw materials without allergens does not pose any particular problems except for possible chemical reactions (esterification, or hydrogen bonding for example), it is necessary to obtain other raw materials that do not contain allergens, whereas usually they do not contain any allergens. behave. The device makes it possible to use component separation techniques, such as fractional distillation, but other possible techniques for separating the parts that contain allergens from the other parts that do not contain them. The database of potential raw materials is then structured according to different chemical functions: mainly alcohols, acids, aldehydes, ketones and esters.
Le problème n'est pas encore résolu car les nombres de combinaisons possibles dépassent vite la centaine des millions. La conception des configurations potentielles utilisera la méthode ELECTRE ORESTE d'aide à la décision pour bâtir celles qui chimiquement, olfactivement, stratégiquement, artistiquement et financièrement sont possibles et prometteuses. The problem is not yet solved because the numbers of possible combinations soon exceed one hundred millions. The design of the potential configurations will use the ELECTRE ORESTE method of decision support to build those that are chemically, olfactively, strategically, artistically and financially possible and promising.
La définition des critères chimiques, techniques concernant la séparation et la stabilité, olfactifs, économiques, financiers permet de réaliser une matrice d'évaluation qui servira de base à la procédure d'aide à la décision multi critères d'évaluation de configuration. Des critères quantitatifs et qualitatifs sont utilisés pour évaluer les configurations. Les mathématiques des ensembles floues, en particulier une méthode multicritères permettant de classer les configurations. Des seuils de concordance et discordance habilement retenus permettent également de retenir un nombre raisonnable des configurations jugées intéressantes. The definition of chemical, technical criteria concerning the separation and the stability, olfactory, economic, financial allows to realize a matrix of evaluation which will be used as a basis for the procedure of decision support multi criteria of evaluation of configuration. Quantitative and qualitative criteria are used to evaluate the configurations. The mathematics of fuzzy sets, especially a multi-criteria method for classifying configurations. Thresholds of concordance and discordance cleverly retained also allow to retain a reasonable number of configurations deemed interesting.
Ensuite des configurations horizontales (des composants ayant de degré de volatilité voisins) et verticales (des composants avec des degrés de volatilité très différents, mais des caractéristiques physico-chimiques proches) sont réalisées. 2953040 -2- Then horizontal configurations (components with a similar degree of volatility) and vertical configurations (components with very different degrees of volatility, but near physicochemical characteristics) are realized. 2953040 -2-
A partir de ces deux types de configurations, des constructions mentales complètes sont réalisées en prenant en compte leurs aspects chimiques, olfactifs et artistiques. L'utilisation des configurations horizontales et verticales facilite grandement les constructions. Ensuite seulement on réalise concrètement en laboratoire les mélanges des constituants. Pour choisir parmi les constructions les plus prometteuses des tests olfactifs peuvent être proposés. En résumé les 7 différentes phases sont les suivantes : From these two types of configurations, complete mental constructions are realized taking into account their chemical, olfactory and artistic aspects. The use of horizontal and vertical configurations greatly facilitates construction. Then only concretely in the laboratory the mixtures of the constituents are realized. To choose among the most promising constructions olfactory tests can be proposed. In summary the 7 different phases are as follows:
1) Constitution de la base de données des matières naturelles et synthétiques 2) Constitution de la base de données des matières potentiellement utilisables, structurée chimiquement 3) Conception des configurations potentielles 4) Evaluation multicritères des configurations retenues 5) Réalisation des configurations horizontales et verticales 6) Réalisation de la construction olfactive (du château) 7) Evaluation finale et tests olfactifs de la construction La figure n°1 présente les différentes étapes. Un mode de réalisation de l'invention est précisé ci-dessous : Les matières premières naturelles sans allergènes sont le vétiver, le santal et le patchouli. D'autres matières premières sont obtenues par distillation fractionnée comme le nagar motta, certaines parties de l'ambre, de l'iris, de la rose et du safran. Des notes ozonïques, hespéridés, des feuilles froissées et agrestes constituent les configurations potentielles. L'évaluation multicritères permet d'éviter les réactions d'estérification, de tenir compte de prix de revient de matières premières (en particulier de l`oud) et d'obtenir une bonne stabilité de différente configuration. L'imbrication des briques (configurations horizontales et verticales) se fait avec facilité. Parmi les constructions olfactives possibles il est judicieux de choisir une construction orientale, boisée, ambrée avec la composition suivante : Tête : hespéridé, note ozonique, feuilles froissées, lavande (note agreste) Coeur : Note irisé, Rose, Safran, tilleul Fond : Nagar motta, vétiver, patchouli, santal, ambre 1) Creation of the database of natural and synthetic materials 2) Creation of the database of potentially usable materials, chemically structured 3) Design of potential configurations 4) Multi-criteria evaluation of the selected configurations 5) Realization of horizontal and vertical configurations 6 ) Realization of the olfactory construction (of the castle) 7) Final evaluation and olfactory tests of the construction Figure n ° 1 presents the different stages. An embodiment of the invention is specified below: The natural raw materials without allergens are vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli. Other raw materials are obtained by fractional distillation such as nagar motta, some parts of amber, iris, rose and saffron. Ozonate, hesperidic notes, crumpled and agresty leaves are the potential configurations. The multicriterion evaluation makes it possible to avoid esterification reactions, to take into account the cost price of raw materials (in particular of oud) and to obtain good stability of different configurations. The nesting of bricks (horizontal and vertical configurations) is done with ease. Among the possible olfactory constructions it is wise to choose an oriental, woody, amber construction with the following composition: Head: citrus, ozonic note, crumpled leaves, lavender (agreste note) Heart: Iridescent note, Rose, Saffron, linden Bottom: Nagar motta, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, amber
Le dispositif selon l'invention est particulièrement destiné à la réalisation des parfums à forte concentration des matières premières naturels sans allergènes à déclarer. The device according to the invention is particularly intended for producing fragrances with a high concentration of natural raw materials without allergens to declare.
Claims (6)
Priority Applications (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0905598A FR2953040A1 (en) | 2009-11-23 | 2009-11-23 | DEVICE FOR THE CHEMICAL FORMULATION OF PERFUMES WITH HIGH CONCENTRATION OF NATURAL INGREDIENTS WITHOUT ALLERGENS TO BE DECLARED |
FR1056923A FR2952941B1 (en) | 2009-11-23 | 2010-09-01 | ALLERGEN - FREE PERFUME COMPOSITION FOR DECLARATION, CONCENTRATED FRACTION AND PRODUCTION METHOD THEREFOR, MODULE FOR CARRYING OUT SAID METHOD. |
PCT/IB2010/055345 WO2011061719A1 (en) | 2009-11-23 | 2010-11-22 | Method for formulating perfume compositions having high levels of natural ingredients and no declared allergens, and perfume composition obtained by means of such a method |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0905598A FR2953040A1 (en) | 2009-11-23 | 2009-11-23 | DEVICE FOR THE CHEMICAL FORMULATION OF PERFUMES WITH HIGH CONCENTRATION OF NATURAL INGREDIENTS WITHOUT ALLERGENS TO BE DECLARED |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
FR2953040A1 true FR2953040A1 (en) | 2011-05-27 |
Family
ID=43797559
Family Applications (2)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
FR0905598A Pending FR2953040A1 (en) | 2009-11-23 | 2009-11-23 | DEVICE FOR THE CHEMICAL FORMULATION OF PERFUMES WITH HIGH CONCENTRATION OF NATURAL INGREDIENTS WITHOUT ALLERGENS TO BE DECLARED |
FR1056923A Expired - Fee Related FR2952941B1 (en) | 2009-11-23 | 2010-09-01 | ALLERGEN - FREE PERFUME COMPOSITION FOR DECLARATION, CONCENTRATED FRACTION AND PRODUCTION METHOD THEREFOR, MODULE FOR CARRYING OUT SAID METHOD. |
Family Applications After (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
FR1056923A Expired - Fee Related FR2952941B1 (en) | 2009-11-23 | 2010-09-01 | ALLERGEN - FREE PERFUME COMPOSITION FOR DECLARATION, CONCENTRATED FRACTION AND PRODUCTION METHOD THEREFOR, MODULE FOR CARRYING OUT SAID METHOD. |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
---|---|
FR (2) | FR2953040A1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2011061719A1 (en) |
Family Cites Families (9)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US4464290A (en) * | 1982-03-22 | 1984-08-07 | Shiseido Company Ltd. | Hypo-allergenic jasmine oil process for producing the same and composition containing the same |
EP0200315A3 (en) | 1985-03-25 | 1988-05-25 | Imperial Chemical Industries Plc | Catalysts |
EP0202647B1 (en) * | 1985-05-21 | 1991-12-11 | Shiseido Company Limited | A process of obtaining a hypo-allergenic moss oil |
ES2067092T3 (en) * | 1990-06-22 | 1995-03-16 | Givaudan Roure Sa | HYPOALLERGENIC ESSENCES OF MOSS. |
JPH04154898A (en) * | 1990-10-19 | 1992-05-27 | Kao Corp | Modified basil essential oil and its production |
WO1993023509A1 (en) * | 1992-05-20 | 1993-11-25 | Givaudan-Roure (International) Sa | Essential oil |
JPH07258683A (en) * | 1994-03-18 | 1995-10-09 | Hideo Nakayama | Perfume composition having extremely low allergy and perfume mixed with the same |
FR2848111B1 (en) * | 2002-12-06 | 2005-02-11 | Robertet Sa | LICHEN EXTRACT WITH REDUCED RESINIC ACID CONTENT, PROCESS FOR PREPARATION AND USES |
FR2939000B1 (en) | 2008-11-24 | 2012-10-26 | Oreal | METHOD OF MANUFACTURING FRAGRANCE WITHIN A SYSTEM COMPRISING A SERVER AND AT LEAST TWO INTERACTIVE TERMINALS OF PERFUME FORMULATION |
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2009
- 2009-11-23 FR FR0905598A patent/FR2953040A1/en active Pending
-
2010
- 2010-09-01 FR FR1056923A patent/FR2952941B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2010-11-22 WO PCT/IB2010/055345 patent/WO2011061719A1/en active Application Filing
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
FR2952941B1 (en) | 2013-05-24 |
WO2011061719A1 (en) | 2011-05-26 |
FR2952941A1 (en) | 2011-05-27 |
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