FR2920988A1 - Preparing composition, useful for cosmetic treatment of keratin materials and for coloring of skin, comprises fluid percolation under pressure through recipient comprising colored vegetable substance containing e.g. polyphenols - Google Patents

Abstract

Preparation of a composition for topical application, comprises fluid percolation under pressure through recipient, preferably in the form of sachet or capsule, where the recipient comprises a colored vegetable substance in the form of solid or paste, and the colored vegetable substance comprises polyphenols, carotenoids, chlorophyll, curcuminoids, flavonoids and their derivatives and/or quininoids. Independent claims are included for: (1) a process for cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, comprising preparing the composition and applying the composition on the material; and (2) a kit for implementation of the process comprising one or more recipient and one or more recipient containing a medium.

Description

The present invention relates to a process for the preparation of a composition for coloring the skin, eyelids, lips or nails, comprising a step of percolation of colored natural plant or mineral substances, optionally followed by incorporation of this extract into a cosmetic support. The subject of the invention is also the composition obtained and its use for coloring keratin materials, in particular skin or lips and human keratinous fibers such as the hair.

The compositions according to the invention may in particular be in the form of a make-up or skincare product, and in particular of the face.

Traditional make-up products such as, for example, blushes, eyeshadows, foundations, concealer or lipsticks, improve the aesthetics by giving more relief to the face, eyes and lips, and intensifying their color. They usually contain pigments and preservatives.

In the field of complexion, one of the main expectations of consumers is to have a make-up unifying the complexion, while remaining invisible to the eye, to obtain the most natural effect possible. However, make-up products generally contain solid particles such as pigments, in particular iron and titanium oxides, which make them difficult to spread on the skin when it has relief imperfections such as enlarged pores, wrinkles or fine lines. In addition, the presence of pulverulent dyestuffs often results in an unnatural powdery effect that consumers want to avoid.

Moreover, the color of the makeup obtained after application of these compositions to the skin is likely to change over time and in particular to become inhomogeneous due to the secretion of sebum and / or sweat during the day.

Finally, these compositions, when applied to the skin, have the disadvantage of transferring, that is to say, of being deposited at least in part, leaving traces, on certain supports with which they can be placed. in contact and in particular a garment or skin. It follows a poor performance of the applied film, requiring regular renewal of the application of the composition. In addition, the appearance of these unacceptable traces especially on the blouse collar may exclude some women from the use of this type of makeup

In the field of lipsticks also, consumers wish to have comfortable make-up compositions during the day, having a good hold in the time of the color, and not transferring.

To overcome the problems of resistance of pigmented compositions and overcome the powdery effect associated with the use of pulverulent dyestuffs, it is known to replace the pigments with soluble dyes. However, some soluble dyes have the disadvantage of poorly preserved. In particular, they can be degraded by hydrolysis in the presence of water, by oxidation in contact with oxygen in the air or water, or in the presence of other oxidizing agents such as light and in particular UV rays. , by photolysis or by photo-degradation. These coloring agents, when used in aqueous solution, can also interact with other active agents commonly used in cosmetics. This causes an unacceptable drift of the original color of the composition during storage.

There is therefore a need for a make-up composition, especially for the skin, comprising soluble dyes, and not having the problems of storage instability mentioned above.

The inventors have shown that by using a colored extract obtained by a percolation process of colored natural plant or mineral substances, optionally in combination with a cosmetic support, it was possible to obtain, extemporaneously, colored compositions, more or less concentrated in coloring, and stable over the period of use, especially in terms of color properties.

The method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain more or less concentrated compositions as a coloring agent, and providing a homogeneous makeup effect of unification and radiance of the complexion, or an effect of highlighting of the lips.

The invention thus relates to a process for the preparation of a composition for topical application, characterized in that it comprises a step of percolating fluid under pressure through at least one natural colored vegetable or mineral substance in the form of solid or pasty, at least one vegetable colored substance being chosen from polyphenols and their derivatives, carotenoids and their derivatives, chlorophyll and its derivatives, curcuminoids and their derivatives, flavonoids and their derivatives, quininoids, and their mixture, optionally followed by a step of incorporating the extract obtained into a cosmetic support.

The invention also relates to a composition that can be obtained by the method described above.

The composition prepared according to the process of the invention being intended for topical application and in particular for application to keratin materials, it is physiologically acceptable. Physiologically acceptable composition means a non-toxic composition that can be applied to keratin materials and is pleasant to use. By keratin materials is meant the skin, scalp, lips, and / or integuments such as nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and hair. The composition may especially be a cosmetic make-up composition.

The percolation step provides a more or less concentrated dye extract, and the composition may consist of the extract as obtained by the claimed process or it may contain the extract and a physiologically acceptable medium containing or not other compounds usually used in the cosmetic field.

The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is prepared according to the process described above, and that this composition is applied to the keratin material. The invention further relates to a cosmetic method for dyeing the skin, comprising applying to the skin a composition obtained by the process described above.

The subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the composition obtained according to the process of the invention, for the makeup or care of keratin materials, and in particular for the coloration and / or the homogenization of the color of the skin.

The invention finally relates to a packaging device for implementing the preparation method of the present invention. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

Percolation process The percolation process is carried out according to the usual percolation technique. A fluid is passed whose temperature is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C, preferably from 30 ° C to 150 ° C, more preferably from 40 ° C to 120 ° C and more preferably from 70 to 80 ° C at a pressure of preferably at least 3 bar (3.105 Pa), for a very short period of time, less than one minute, through at least one natural substance, vegetable or mineral, in solid or pasty form preferably in solid form, and more preferably in pulverulent form.

It is thus possible to use, in anhydrous form, unstable coloring agents in aqueous compositions, either because they react with water or with ambient humidity, or because they react, in the presence of water. water, with compounds or active. It is also possible to store these dyes in anhydrous form without risk of degradation.

The compositions prepared by this process may have limited storage stability, which is not a disadvantage here since the process results in a ready-to-use composition for use rapidly after its preparation, for example within 5 minutes of its preparation, in particular after cooling to an acceptable temperature for the keratin materials, preferably below 60 ° C., more preferably below 50 ° C. The composition may also be used up to several weeks after its preparation, depending on the rate of degradation of the coloring agent used. In the absence of additional preservatives, they should be kept at a low temperature (below 4 ° C).

Given the very short preparation time, the extracts obtained by the method described above and the cosmetic compositions containing them can be prepared "on demand" by mixing the percolation extracts and the cosmetic supports according to the desired cosmetic properties. In particular, it is possible to choose the nature, the quantity and the composition of the one or more natural substance (s) used to obtain the desired color, and / or to choose the composition of the cosmetic support, in particular the additives. or cosmetic active ingredients adapted to the type of skin (mixed, dry or oily) of the consumer and her preferences in terms of texture. According to another embodiment, the natural vegetable or mineral substances may be packaged in a ready-to-use device of the kit type, and it is not necessary to determine in advance the concentrations of the natural substances in solution, which limits the measurement errors of the user.

The subject of the present invention is also a method for dyeing keratinous substances, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is prepared according to the defined method of percolation defined above, and that this composition is applied to the keratin material. Preferably, the keratin material is the skin.

Another subject of the present invention is a kit for implementing the method defined above, comprising: one or more containers adapted to percolation under pressure by a fluid route, the container or containers defining at least one housing containing at least one a natural, vegetable or mineral substance, and - one or more physiologically acceptable media.

The container may in particular be a capsule or a sachet. This kit makes it possible to obtain a composition obtained by the process according to the invention, the percolation extract being added to the physiologically acceptable medium.

In addition, the method according to the invention makes it possible to avoid the use of mufti-compartment vials, which makes the process particularly economical and safer for the user.

Percolation is a movement of fluid through a saturated porous medium permitting the passage of fluid under the action or effect of pressure. The fluid may be constituted by steam optionally with liquid water, or by one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and / or gaseous solvents, in particular organic solvents, or by a mixture of water vapor, possibly accompanied by liquid water, and one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and / or gaseous solvents. Preferably, the fluid comprises at least water vapor may be accompanied by liquid water, and even more preferably it is water vapor may be accompanied by liquid water.

Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned are C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

The percolation fluid may also be mineral water such as for example Vichy waters (sources of lucas, hospital, large grid); the water of La Roche Posay, the water of Avène, the water of Vittel. One or more solvents can also be added, as indicated above. The process of the present invention may be carried out using a conventional device for generating a fluid under pressure, at a temperature preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C., and even more preferably ranging from 30 ° C. to 150 ° C. Such a device comprises a pressure-resistant chamber, equipped with a heat block, and a fluid flow circuit produced to the plant or mineral extract.

According to another embodiment, the device comprises a liquid reservoir (s) and a pump for conveying the liquid or liquids to the chamber. The liquid contained in the reservoir is the percolation fluid as described above.

A particularly useful device for carrying out the process of the present invention is an espresso type coffee machine. Such machines are well known in the art. For example, these machines are described in the documents ATA-168405, US-A-2688911, DE-A-32433870 and IT-A-1265636, and in the applications FR0650303, FR0650304, FR0650306, FR0650308.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the percolation step is carried out with a fluid at a temperature above 30 ° C., preferably between 30 ° C. and 150 ° C., under a pressure of preference at least 3 bars, better at least 4 bars, even better at least 10 bars and especially between 10 and 30 bars.

The natural or vegetable substance or substances, in solid or pasty form, may be used directly, in the device generating the fluid under pressure, in a container intended for this purpose. They may also be packaged in a particular packaging device of the single dose type comprising a closed housing delimited by at least one wall at least partially permeable to a fluid under pressure of at least 3 bar. Such devices are, for example, described in WO-A-00/56629, EP-A-512470, US-A-5897899 or WO-A-99/03753. These conditioning devices are generally airtight, moisture and / or light.

According to a particular embodiment, the housing is delimited by two sealed sheets. According to another embodiment, the housing is delimited by a tray closed by a lid.

These devices can be made from woven or non-woven materials, of plastic or vegetable material, for example cellulose, metal such as aluminum or composite. Such devices are for example described in WO-A-00/56629, EP-A-512470, US-A-5897899 or WO-A-99/03753.

The invention also relates to a container, in particular in the form of a sachet or a capsule, adapted for fluid pressure percolation, the container defining at least one housing containing at least one mineral substance in solid form. or pasty. The mineral substance or substances may optionally be in admixture with at least one plant substance.

As indicated above, the housing may be delimited by two sealed sheets, or it may be delimited by a tray closed by a lid.

Colored plant or mineral substance

To prepare the colored extract, it is possible to use any natural plant or mineral substance, in solid form or in pasty form, preferably in solid form, and even more preferably in pulverulent form.

By vegetable or mineral substance, we mean any substance belonging to the vegetable field (trees, plants, leaves, flowers) or mineral. Thus, the plant substance can come from woods, leaves, herbs, flowers, fruits, roots, barks, pulps, peels, berries, beans, plant seeds, and seaweeds. Similarly, the natural mineral substances that can be used according to the invention can be mineral powders, for example powders of rocks, volcanic or non-volcanic, corals, pearls. As volcanic rocks, there may be mentioned polymetallic nodules.

By vegetable or mineral colored substance is meant a plant or a mineral naturally rich in natural dyes, that is to say containing in an amount sufficient to impart a color to keratin materials such as skin or lips.

In the present invention, the term solid form is understood to mean a compound or a composition in the form of a tablet (or tablet), coarse grains or powders, fibers, a sheet or a finely divided powder. particles, as opposed to a composition in the form of cream or gel which are flexible compositions. In addition, the term "powder" means a compound or a composition in the form of a powder (consisting of particles or grains).

For pasty form in the sense of the present invention means an intermediate consistency between a solid phase and a liquid phase. The viscosity of this pasty phase is preferably greater than 0.1 Pa.s, and even more preferably greater than 1 Pa.s, this at 25 ° C with a shear rate of 10 s-1.

By way of non-limiting illustration of the natural plant dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: polyphenols and their derivatives, present for example in cocoa, coffee, black tea, carotenoids and their derivatives : such as carotenes (for example (3-carotene, lycopene, ...), xanthophylls (for example capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein, bixin, etc.), present especially in carrots, tomatoes, spinach, paprika, marigold, annatto, ... - chlorophyll and its derivatives, present especially in grass, nettle, spinach and alfalfa, - curcuminoids and their derivatives, present especially in turmeric, 10 40 45 - the flavonoids and their derivatives (for example flavones, chalcones, aurones, hematoxyline, haematin, braziline, carthamine), present in particular in the henna, the logwood wood, the wood of Brazil, the safflower, ... - quininoids (alizarin), present especially in the Garance, - and their mixture.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the plants used to color the composition may be chosen from Campeche wood, Brazilian wood, Safflower, turmeric, annatto, madder, cocoa, nettle coffee, black tea, and their mixtures. The choice of these dyes makes it possible to obtain a more intense colored extract than those obtained with other known natural dyes.

The process according to the invention makes it possible to extract the dye directly from the plant or the mineral comprising it. Some dyes already isolated from the plant or the mineral can be marketed in solid form, for example in the form of powder. Such dyes in the form of powder or paste may also be introduced into the capsule, alone or in combination with a mineral or a colored plant such as those described above, to be extracted via the percolation process according to the invention.

Such dyes in the form of powder or paste can also be introduced into the capsule, alone or in combination in admixture with one or more solid or pasty additives. The colored powdery materials may be used alone or in admixture. They can be introduced into the capsules according to the invention in a sufficiently high content to allow the dry support to be colored. Those skilled in the art will adjust the contents of colored powdery materials according to the nature of the extracted powdered color material and the desired color intensity in the final composition.

Adjuvants:

The colored powdery material (s) may be used in a mixture, in particular in the capsule, with one or more solid or pasty, and preferably pulverulent, additives which may serve, for example, to improve the extraction. Once the percolation is complete, these adjuvants remain in the percolator.

The adjuvants may be chosen from clays, salts, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants, natural or synthetic thickeners, glass beads, silica, nylon, waxes and pigments. , alumina, titanium dioxide, zeolites, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, mono or disaccharides such as glucose, sucrose, sorbitol, fructose, zinc oxide , zirconium, resin particles such as silicone or silicabades, talc, polyaspartic acid, borosilicates including calcium, polyethylene, cotton, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), cellulose and its derivatives, superabsorbent compounds , magnesium or calcium carbonates, starch, possibly

corn kernels, polydimethylsiloxane gums, polyacrylamide, porous hydroxyapatite, silk, collagen, sawdust, fucus powder, flour or extracts of wheat, rice, peas, lupine, soya, barley, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone, calcium alginate, activated carbon, particles of poly (vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile), especially those sold under the name Expancel by the company Akzo Nobel, additional dyes, in particular in the form of a powder, chosen from water-soluble and liposoluble dyes, of natural or synthetic origin, preferably of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

Fat-soluble dyes include generally organic compounds soluble in fats such as oils. Liposoluble, synthetic or natural dyes are, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red carotenes (13-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

By water-soluble dyes are meant compounds generally soluble in water and water-miscible solvents.

The synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes are, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, 25 FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot) , hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. The dyes may also be chosen from juglone, lawsone, fermented soy extracts, algae, mushrooms, microorganisms and non-substituted 3-substituted Flavylium salts, such as, for example, those described in the patent. EP 1 172 091, extracts of Gesneria Fulgens, Blechum Procerum, Saxifraga and pigments obtainable by extraction with an organic or hydro-organic solvent of a micromycete culture medium of the monascus Monascus type.

According to a preferred embodiment, the adjuvants and in particular the dyes introduced into the capsule with the colored materials are mineral and / or vegetable substances.

When one or more adjuvants are present, the natural substance or substances are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 99% by weight, relative to the weight of 40 relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably 1 at 80% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 60% by weight.

Composition support

From the preparation process according to the invention, a colored plant extract is obtained which can constitute a dyeing composition of the keratin materials, and which can be applied directly to the keratin materials.

According to a particular embodiment, this extract may be mixed with a cosmetically acceptable medium constituting a support composition optionally comprising one or more additives or active ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics. It is also possible to mix at least two compositions obtained by the method of the invention.

The base composition in which the colored vegetable or mineral extract (s) obtained by percolation (also called the carrier composition) is introduced may be in any galenical form and especially in the form of an aqueous composition, an emulsion or a anhydrous composition (or dry support).

By aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of fatty substance relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3% by weight, and more preferably a composition free of fatty substances.

By anhydrous composition or dry support within the meaning of the present application, a cosmetic support comprising water in a content less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still less than or equal to 0, 5%. In particular, the dry support according to the invention is free of water. It may in particular be in liquid, pasty or freeze-dried (powdery) form, such as a thin film as described, for example, in document EP-A-1588694, or an atomized powder as described for example in document EP-A-938892. , which are powders comprising modified starch and an oily phase, or a pulverulent composition of the Chamalow type, as described, for example, in the documents EP-A-966956 and EP-A-968702, anhydrous powders such as, for example, powders comprising modified starch, an oily phase, a charge, a surfactant, for example those described in document FR-A-2844448,

The carrier composition may also be an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (W / O / W or W / O / H) emulsion, prepared in a conventional manner with or without emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the phases of the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). When the emulsion is multiple, it generally comprises an emulsifier in the primary emulsion and an emulsifier in the external phase into which the primary emulsion is introduced.

The composition obtained according to the method of the invention contains the plant or vegetable extracts or colored minerals obtained by percolation, and it may contain any other adjuvant added during or after the percolation step.

Aqueous phase

The support composition may comprise an aqueous phase when it is in the form of an aqueous composition or an emulsion.

The aqueous phase comprises water or a mixture of water. It may also comprise at least one organic solvent for solubilizing compounds that are not sufficiently soluble in water. As organic solvent, there may be mentioned, for example, C1-C4 lower alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The solvents are preferably present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight.

The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one thickening agent.

The thickening agent of the aqueous phase may be chosen from: homo or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F or VERSICOL K by the company ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8 by CIBA-GEIGY, SYNTHALEN K type polyacrylic acids, and salts, in particular of sodium, of polyacrylic acid (answering the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (responding INCI sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride) sold under the name LUVIGEL EM by the company, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN by the company HERCULES, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name DARVAN No. 7 by VANDERBILT, the sodium salts of po lyhydroxycarboxylic compounds sold under the name HYDAGEN F by Henkel; polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of PEMULEN type; AMPS (partially and ammonia-neutralized polyacrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid) highly marketed by the company CLARIANT, the AMPS / acrylamide copolymers of the SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type marketed by the company SEPPIC, the polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or otherwise) of the ARISTOFLEX HMS type sold by the company Clariant, and mixtures thereof.

Other examples of water-soluble gelling polymers include: proteins such as proteins of vegetable origin such as wheat and soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; Cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, and quaternized cellulose derivatives;

vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates and carrageenans; lo - glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; - shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulphates, and mixtures thereof.

Liquid fatty phase

When in the form of an emulsion or in anhydrous form, the support composition according to the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase. The liquid fatty phase comprises at least one oil chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition and in particular the dry support according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm). of Hg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

The volatile oil may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, volatile fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched alkanes containing from 30 to 40 carbon atoms.

C8-C16 as the C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permethyls. Volatile silicones can also be used as volatile oils, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 5 centistokes (5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and especially having from 2 to 10 atoms. silicon, preferably from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The volatile fluorinated oil does not usually have a flash point. As fluorinated volatile oil, mention may be made of nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane and dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the support composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil, preferably cyclic.

The support composition according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil in a content ranging from 1 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 70% by weight, more preferably ranging from 10 to 60% by weight. by weight, and even more preferably from 15 to 50% by weight. The carrier composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile oil.

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg).

These non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from fluorinated hydrocarbon oils which may be fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils. As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may especially be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol of which the fatty acids may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or else the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, of avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, cassis, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane, paraffin oils, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, for example formula R1000R2 in which RI represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 is 10, as for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononanoate of isononyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyl myristate -dodecyl, heptanoates, oct anoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol, 40-higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 atoms. of carbon, silicones,

phenyls such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile oil may be present in the composition and in particular the dry support according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 % to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 30% by weight.

The fatty phase of the support composition according to the invention may also comprise fatty substances other than the oils mentioned above, such as waxes or pasty fatty substances.

By wax is meant a solid fat body at room temperature.

The pasty fatty substances can be defined using at least one of the following physicochemical properties:

a viscosity of 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poise), measured at 40 ° C. with a CONTRAVES TV rotary viscometer equipped with a mobile MS-r3 or MS-r4 at a frequency of 60 Hz, a melting point of 25-70 ° C, preferably 25-55 ° C.

As waxes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:

animal waxes such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Japan wax, butter wax of cocoa or waxes of cork fiber or sugar cane,

mineral waxes, for example paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites,

synthetic waxes, among which polyethylene waxes, and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis,

silicone waxes, in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes; mention may be made, for example, of polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, alkyl methicones such as C30-C45 alkylmethicone sold under the trade name "AMS C 30" by DOW CORNING, 40 45 - hydrogenated oils concrete at 25 ° C such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and fatty esters concrete at 25 ° C such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name "Kester WAX K82H" by Koster Keunen, and / or mixtures thereof. The polyethylene waxes, the microcrystalline waxes, the carnauba waxes, the hydrogenated jojoba oil, the candelilla waxes, the beeswaxes and / or their mixtures will preferably be used.

Preferably, the waxes are present in the support composition in a content such that they represent from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. final.

These fatty substances may in particular be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example in consistency or in texture.

Thickening agent

The support composition according to the invention may comprise at least one thickening agent of the aqueous phase or of the fatty phase.

The thickening agent of the fatty phase (or oil thickener) may be chosen from polymeric thickeners, mineral thickeners and mixtures thereof.

The polymeric thickening agent of the oils is capable of thickening or gelling the organic phase of the composition. The polymeric thickening agent can also be film-forming, that is to say, it is capable of forming a film when it is applied to the skin. The polymeric thickening agent for the oils may especially be chosen from: polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid chosen from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least 32 carbon atoms such as dimer fatty acids and (13) an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, wherein the polyamide polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least one monohydric alcohol or a monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear carbon atoms and saturated, and in particular, copolymers of ethylene diamine / stearyl dilinoleate such as that sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG by ARIZONA CHEMICAL;

silicone polymers of the type: 1) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or 2) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establish hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches. Groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions may be selected from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof. The silicone polymers used as structuring agents in the composition of the invention are polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type, for instance those described in documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A-6,051,216 and US Pat. -A-5981680. In particular, the silicone polymers are polyorganosiloxanes as defined above and whose units capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are arranged in the polymer chain. The silicone polymers may more particularly be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the general formula I: ## STR1 ## in which: R4, R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, linear, branched or cyclic, in C 1 -C 4, which may contain in their chain one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen, and which may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms, - C 6 to C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups, - polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not one or more oxygen atoms of sulfur and / or nitrogen, 2) X, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched C1-C8 alkylene di-yl group which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen atoms and / or nitrogen, 3) Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 -C 6 O, group which may have one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or substituting one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 5 -C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 C 1 -C 3 alkyl groups, C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl and C1 to C6 alkylamino, or 4) Y is a group of the formula: wherein - T is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24, trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and - R8 represents a C1-C50 alkyl group , linear or branched, or polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide groups which may or may not be linked to another chain of the polymer, 5) G, which may be identical or different, represent the groups divalents chosen from: - C OOC N (R9) C. O O O -C N (R9); N (R9) SO2 SO2 N (R9) O - N (R9) O00CN (R9) N (R9) CO.

O O S - O-C N (R9); N (R9) C N (R9) S O - N (R9) C N (R9) S N (R9) CCN (R9) .NHCNH. and

Where R 9 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl group, provided that at least 50% of the R 9 of the polymer represents a hydrogen atom and that at least two of the groups G of the polymer are a group other than: OC and CO Li 6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200. According to the invention, 80% of the R 4, R 5, R 6 and R 7, of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl and phenyl groups and 3,3,3 trifluoropropyl.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are amide groups of the formula ## STR2 ## and ## STR2 ## In this case, the structuring agent may be a polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV): R 4 R 5

Wherein R 4, R 5, R 6, R 7, X, Y, m and R 4 n are as defined above.

In these polyamides of formula (III) or (IV), m ranges from 1 to 700, in particular from 15 to 500 and in particular from 50 to 200, and is particularly preferably from 1 to 500, preferably from 1 to 100 and better still from 4 to 25, X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms, especially 5 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly 10 carbon atoms. carbon, and - Y is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain or which may comprise rings and / or unsaturations, having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 carbon atoms. Galactomans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular C 1 -C 3 and mixtures thereof;

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mineral thickening agent for oils such as an organophilic clay, pyrogenic silicas. Organophilic clays are clays modified with chemical compounds that make the clay swellable in oily environments. Clays are already well known products per se, which are described for example in the book "Mineralogy of clays, S. Caillere, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd edition 1982, Masson. ", whose teaching is included here for reference. The clays are silicates containing a cation which may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations and their mixtures.

Examples of such products include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as the family of vermiculites, stevensite, chlorites .

These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays are used which are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin materials such as the skin.

The organophilic clay may be selected from montmorrilonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.

These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Bentone ISD V by Elementis, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34 Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; 18-quaternium / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay.

The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names "AEROSIL 130", "AEROSIL 200", "AEROSIL 255", "AEROSIL 300", "AEROSIL 380" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL HS-5" , "CAB-O-SIL EH-5", "CAB-O-SIL LM-130", "CAB-O-SIL MS-55", "CAB-O-SIL M-5" by Cabot.

It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R812" by the company Degussa, "CABO-SIL TS-530" by the company Cabot. dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R972", "AEROSIL R974" by Degussa, "CAB-OSIL TS-610", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720" by Cabot.

The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

According to a preferred embodiment, the support composition according to the invention may comprise the combination of a hydrophobic fumed silica and of quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite

The thickening agent of the aqueous phase that can be used according to the invention may in particular be chosen from the aqueous phase thickeners described above.

The thickening agent of the aqueous phase or of the fatty phase may be present in the composition or the dry support according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.3% to 5% by weight.

Coloring agent

The support composition may further comprise at least one additional coloring agent chosen from pigments, nacres or soluble dyes. By pigments, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.

The pigments may be white and / or colored, mineral and / or organic.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition or the dry support according to the invention may comprise at least one pigment chosen from inorganic pigments.

These inorganic pigments may, in particular, be chosen from metal oxide pigments. Examples of inorganic pigments are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, violet manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder. In addition to the inorganic pigments, the support composition according to the invention may comprise organic pigments. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The support composition may also comprise goniochromatic pigments. These pigments have a relatively large color change with the viewing angle. The goniochromatic pigment may be chosen, for example, from pigments with multilayer interferential structure and liquid crystal pigments.

In the case of a multilayer structure, it may comprise for example at least two layers, each layer, regardless of whether or not the other layer (s), being made for example from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF 2, CeF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2, Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3, Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, 5203, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2 , CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, TiO 2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS 2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations. The goniochromatic agents with multilayer structures are especially those described in the following documents: US-A-3,438,796, EP-A-227423, US-A-5,135,812, EP-A-30 (BASF), DE-A -196 14 637. They are in the form of flakes, metallized color. The multilayer structures that can be used in the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Al; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / AU SiO2 / Fe2O3; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; MoS2 / SiO2 / micaoxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3. Depending on the thickness of the different layers, different colors are obtained. Thus, with the Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / AU SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 structure, grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

As a result, the multilayer structure can be essentially mineral or organic. Depending on the thickness of each of the different layers, different colors are obtained.

The goniochromatic pigments with an interferential multilayer structure according to the invention are in particular those described in the following documents: US-A-3,438,796, 170439, EP-A-341002, US-A-4,930,866, US-A-5,641 719, EP-A-472371, EP-A-395410, EP-A-753545, EP-A-768343, EP-A-571836, EP-A-708154, EP-A-579091, US-A-5,411 586, US-A-5,364,467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4,225,031, WO 9517479 EP-A-227423, US-A-5,135,812, EP-A-170439, A-341002, US-A-4,930,866, US-A-5,641,719, EP-A-472371, EP-A-395410, EP-A-753545, EP-A-768343, EP-A-571836, EP-A-708154, EP-A-579091, US-A-5,411,586, US-A-5,364,467, WO-A-97/39066, DE-A-4,225,031, WO 9517479 (BASF), DE-A-196 14 637, and their associations. They are in the form of flakes, metallic color.

The goniochromatic pigment with an interferential multilayer structure may be chosen from the group consisting of the following commercial goniochromatic pigments: Infinite Colors by the company SHISEIDO, Sicopearl Fantastico by BASF, Colorstream, Xirallic, Xirona by MERCK, Colorglitter by FLEX, and their mixtures.

Liquid crystal pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1046692.

Examples of liquid crystal particles that may be used include those known under the name CTFA Polyacrylate-4 and sold under the names HELICONE HC Sapphire, HELICONE HC Scarabeus, HELICONE HC Jade, HELICONE HC Maple, HELICONE HC XL Sapphire, HELICONE HC XL Scarabeus, HELICONE HC XL Jade, HELICONE HC XL Maple by the company WACKER.

By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide-coated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye. especially of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

The pigments and / or nacres may be present in the final composition in a content of less than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the final composition, preferably less than or equal to 10% and more preferably still less than or equal to at 5% by weight.

In particular, the pigments and / or nacres may be present in the final composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 10% and more. more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight.

The additional dyes are chosen from water-soluble and fat-soluble dyes, of natural or synthetic origin. Liposoluble, synthetic or natural dyes are, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red carotenes (13-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin. The synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes are, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, 35 FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot) , hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. The dyes can be further selected from juglone, lawsone, fermented soy extracts, algae, mushrooms, microorganisms. Flavylium salts not substituted in the 3-position such as, for example, those described in patent EP 1 172 091, extracts of Gesneria Fulgens, Blechum Procerum, Saxifraga and pigments that can be obtained by extraction with an organic or hydro-solvent. -organic culture medium of micromycetes monascus type Monascus. In a particular embodiment, the direct dyeing system comprises at least one natural coloring agent, especially as defined above, in particular water-soluble.

In particular, the soluble dye may be in solid form in the carrier composition according to the invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the support composition according to the invention may comprise at least one dye. Cosmetic additives

The carrier composition may further comprise other conventional cosmetic additives such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof. antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifying agents, rubbers.

The above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, when it is in anhydrous form, the carrier composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of preservatives, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight. % by weight and better yet, it is free of preservatives.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additives in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the one or more proposed additions.

Depending on whether the method described above comprises only the percolation step or that it comprises one or more subsequent stages of mixing the extract obtained with a physiologically acceptable medium, the composition obtained may contain only the extract colored plant or it may additionally contain the additives of the physiologically acceptable medium added after the percolation step. The invention also relates to a particularly cosmetic composition obtained by the process according to the invention. This composition has the advantage of being free from preservatives.

A particular embodiment of the invention consists in applying the composition obtained via a device that does not require any human intervention and possibly equipped with a cooling means.

The subject of the invention is also a process for the makeup or care of keratinous materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is prepared according to the process as defined above, and that this composition is applied to the keratin material . The keratinous material is preferably the skin.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for uniformizing the color of the skin, consisting in applying to the skin a composition obtained by the process according to the invention.

The application to keratin materials may be carried out for example by means of an operator or by means of a device that does not require human intervention. The duration of application can vary between 15 seconds and 1 hour.

The amount of colored plant extract (s) present in the composition obtained by the process of the present invention is generally between 0.01% and 99% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 50% by weight. % by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition is generally between 3 and 8, and preferably between 4 and 7. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetics or else using classic buffers.

Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.

Among the alkalinizing agents, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, hydroxides of sodium or potassium.

The final composition may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, gels, or in any other form suitable for treating keratinous substances, and in particular keratinous fibers, and skin. The composition obtained may constitute in particular a makeup product for the skin, having a good-looking effect, without marking the irregularities of relief of the skin.

Another embodiment consists in preparing at least two compositions according to the process of the invention, in mixing them, and optionally adding a cosmetically acceptable medium and / or one or more additives conventionally used in cosmetics as described above, then to apply the composition obtained on the keratin materials.

The invention also relates to a kit for carrying out the process as defined above, comprising one or more containers as defined above, and one or more containers containing a physiologically acceptable medium or support composition. This kit makes it possible to obtain a composition according to the invention wherein the percolation extract is added to a physiologically acceptable medium which may be an emulsion, a dry support or any other cosmetic dosage form as described above. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention. Quantities are percentages by weight unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLE 1 A formulation of colored extracts was prepared according to the following preceded:

2.6 g of a natural cocoa extract (cocoa powder, brand NORMA) are placed in a capsule and the capsule is placed in a commercial coffee machine NESPRESSO 10 (Magimix M 250). This powder mixture is then passed through the water vapor produced by the machine until a composition (A) having a final volume of 30 ml is obtained. The extract is collected in 70 g of an oil-in-water white emulsion having the following composition: Phase Chemical Composition 0 (Mass) Mixture of di-alkyl tartrate, cetylstearyl alcohol and A of oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (25 OE), oxypropylenated sold 2.14 under the name Cosmacol PSE by SASOL Mixture of glyceryl mono and di-stearate and ethylene glycol stearate (100 OE) sold under the reference ARLACEL 2.86 165 FL by Uniqema Stearyl alcohol (C18 95%) (LANETTE 18 from COGNIS) 1.43 Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (Dow Corning 246 Fluid) 10.71 Isoparaffin (6-8 moles isobuthylene) hydrogenated 3.57 (PARLEAM from NOF CORPORATION) P butyl hydroxybenzoate (distributed by UENO FINE 0.21 CHEMICALS) protected 2-ethyl hexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (PARSOL 1.43 MCX from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) B Water 56.57 Methyl P-hydroxybenzoate (distributed by NIPA) 0 , 71 C Water 1.43 Chlorxidine gluconate in solution in water at 20% 0.36 BP / PH. EUR. (from SCHUTZ DISHMAN) D Water 13.93 Sodium Hyaluronate (MW: 1.100.000) Powder 0.36 (CRYSTALHYAL from SOLIANCE) E Starchy corn starch sold under the name Dry Flo 4'29 Plus by National Starch TOTAL 100.00 Phase A is weighed into a 400 mL beaker which is placed in a water bath at 75 ° C until completely dissolved.

The various constituents of phase B are weighed into the main beaker (800 ml) and then placed in a water bath at 75 ° C. until complete dissolution. Phase D (gel) is prepared in parallel with Raynerie. The emulsion is at 75 ° C. For this, the fatty phase A is poured into the aqueous phase B, increasing as the stirring speed increases to 1500 rpm. There must always be a little vortex. The mechanical stirring is maintained for 10 minutes. The temperature is then lowered to 45 ° C, and phase C is added (stirring for 5 minutes), then phase D (stirring for 5 min), then phase E (stirring for 15 minutes).

This gives a colored emulsion of makeup of the skin ready to be applied to the skin to give a radiance of the complexion.

Example 2

A cream of complexion with madder extracts was prepared according to the following preceded: is placed 5 grams of a natural madder extract (root, in powder form, reference 37200 from Kremer Pigmente). in a capsule and put the capsule in a commercial coffee machine NESPRESSO (Magimix M 250). This powder mixture is then passed through the water vapor produced by the machine until a composition (A) having a final volume of 30 ml is obtained. The extract is collected in 3.33 g of a white powder having the following composition: Phase Chemical name% A Starch carboxymethyl ether, sodium salt 52 Polymethyl methacrylate hollow microspheres B Oxygenated butyl alcohol (26 0E) 4.3 oxypropylenated (26 OP), hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylenated (40 0E) in water Macadamia oil deodorized 17 TOTAL 100 Phase A (powder) was previously homogenized in a blender (mini household chopper). Phase B is then added to the powder mixture and the whole is rehomogenized in the mixer. A white preparation in the form of a powder is then obtained.

3.33 grams of this preparation is added the formulation of color extracts previously made, up to 30 ml with manual stirring for about a minute.

A creamy, creamy foundation composition is obtained which is ready to be applied to the skin to give a radiant complexion. The composition does not require the presence of preservative. 28 40

Claims (17)

1. Process for the preparation of a composition for topical application, characterized in that it comprises a step of percolating fluid under pressure through one or more vegetable colored substances in solid or pasty form, at least one colored vegetable substance. being chosen from: - polyphenols and their derivatives, - carotenoids and their derivatives, - chlorophyll and its derivatives, - curcuminoids and their derivatives, - flavonoids and their derivatives - quininoids, - and their mixture. 2. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the vegetable colored substance is selected from Campeche wood, Brazil wood, Safflower, turmeric, annatto, madder, cocoa, nettle, coffee , black tea, and their mixtures. 3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluid is constituted by steam optionally accompanied by liquid water, or by one or more liquid solvents and / or gaseous physiologically acceptable, or by a mixture of steam optionally accompanied by liquid water, and one or more liquid and / or gaseous solvents physiologically acceptable. 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pressure is at least 3 bar and preferably at least 4 bar. 5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the temperature is greater than 30 ° C. 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the colored vegetable substance (s) are used in admixture with one or more solid or pasty additives. 7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more subsequent stages of mixing with a support composition. 8. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the support composition is in aqueous, anhydrous or emulsion form. 9. A composition obtainable by the process of any one of the preceding claims. 10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is free of preservative. 11. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is prepared according to the method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, and that this composition is applied to the keratinous material. 12. Cosmetic process for dyeing the skin, consisting in applying to the skin a composition obtained by the method according to any one of Claims 1 to 8. 13. Process for the preparation of a composition for topical application, characterized in that it comprises a step of percolating fluid under pressure through a container, in particular in the form of a sachet or a capsule, adapted fluid percolation under pressure, the container defining at least one housing containing at least one vegetable colored substance in solid or pasty form, chosen from: polyphenols and their derivatives, carotenoids and their derivatives, chlorophyll and its derivatives, curcuminoids and their derivatives, flavonoids and their derivatives quininoids, and their mixtures. 14. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the housing of the container is delimited by two sealed sheets. 25 15. The method of claim 13, characterized in that the housing of the container is delimited by a tray closed by a lid. 16. Kit for carrying out the method according to any one of claims 7 to 11, comprising one or more containers according to any one of claims 13 to 15, and one or more containers containing a physiologically acceptable medium. 17. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 9 or 10, for the makeup or care of keratin materials, and in particular for coloring and / or homogenization of the skin color. 35