FR2903304A1 - Fluid cosmetic composition e.g. for lips, comprises organic volatile solvents and color-effect particles contained in medium that enables color effect to develop progressively after composition is being applied - Google Patents

Abstract

A fluid cosmetic composition comprises organic volatile solvents and color-effect particles contained in a medium. The medium enables the color effect to develop progressively after the composition is being deposited on keratinous materials. The progressive development of the color effect is result of the particles rising to the surface of the deposit during evaporation of the volatile solvents. An independent claim is included for a method of applying makeup to keratinous materials.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, and more

  especially those intended for makeup of the skin, lips or integuments. It is known to use, in makeup compositions, pigments intended to create a color effect by an interference phenomenon.

  Diffractive pigments comprising a diffraction grating for creating a so-called rainbow effect are thus known, a particularity of these pigments being to produce a color depending on the orientation of the pigment relative to the observer. In known compositions producing a color effect by an interference phenomenon depending on the direction of observation, the intensity of the effect is related to the number of particles having the same orientation. The roughness of the underlying support is a factor on which depends the intensity of the effect obtained when the pigment tends to concentrate at the interface between the composition and the support and thus marry the relief of the latter. A rough surface impairs the alignment of the particles and affects the intensity of the color effect.

  The application WO 2005/055965 discloses nail polishes and lip glosses comprising aluminum particles with a diffraction grating. This publication recommends in the case of a nail varnish a mass content of volatile solvent up to 90% relative to the total weight of the composition. It is suggested to orient the particles during the deposition of the composition through a mechanical effect related for example to the use of a brush or an applicator ball. In the case of a lip gloss, according to this publication, an iridescent metallic appearance could be obtained. The aim of the invention is to propose novel cosmetic compositions which make it possible to obtain relatively intense color effects from particles having a color effect suspended in the composition, for example a diffractive pigment, even when the composition is applied in a thin layer on a relatively irregular support. Typically, the cosmetic compositions comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium. By cosmetically acceptable medium is meant a non-toxic medium that can be applied to the skin, integuments or lips of human beings.

  The subject of the invention is, in a first aspect, a fluid cosmetic composition comprising one or more volatile solvents and particles with a color effect dispersed in this or these solvents, the medium being capable of allowing, after the formation of a deposition of the composition on keratin materials, the color effect of 2903304 2 appear gradually after the application, due to migration to the surface of the deposit and an alignment of the particles during the evaporation of the or solvents. This migration towards the surface can take place in particular under the effect of convection movements within the composition due to the evaporation of the solvent (s). Thanks to the rise of the particles towards the surface, in the invention, the concentration of the particles in the vicinity of the surface of the composition increases after the application and makes it possible to create by a phenomenon of interference a relatively intense color effect, even when the support on which the composition is applied is relatively irregular, such as skin or lips. In addition, the invention can make the effect obtained less dependent on the nature of the applicator possibly used. The color effect can reach its final intensity relatively quickly, for example in less than five minutes after application.

The invention can still provide a playful effect, by the gradual appearance of the color effect. The use of one or more solvents with a relatively low boiling point may be preferable to promote the appearance of convection movements, especially when the total mass content of this or these solvents is relatively low.

The composition may advantageously comprise one or more volatile solvents, in particular organic solvents, whose boiling point at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than or equal to 150.degree. C., more preferably 105.degree. C., more preferably 90.degree. this or these solvents may be for example less than or equal to 20%, better 15% or 10%. This content may be chosen according to the nature of the keratin materials to which the composition is intended to be applied, being, for example, less than or equal to 8 or 6% to make the composition more suitable for application to the skin or the lips. . The choice of volatile solvent (s) can be made according to their compatibility with the other constituents of the composition, in order to allow the composition to be stored in a stable manner, in particular without demixing the constituents.

The viscosity of the composition may advantageously be greater than or equal to 0.5 Pa.s under a shear of 1000 s-1, which may improve its resistance to the skin or the lips. The viscosity of the composition may also advantageously be less than or equal to 10 Pa.s under a shear of 1000 s-1, so as not to unduly retard the rise and the orientation of the particles and allow it to take place before complete evaporation of the volatile solvent (s). The viscosity is measured at 25 ° C. under a shear of 1000 ° C. with a rheometer under the following conditions: Mobile: Cone / Sandblasted plane with an opening angle of 2 and diameter mm (C235 / 2 sanded) - Protocol: - temperature of the sample at 25 ° C. for 30 seconds, - flow curve: shear from 0 to 4000 s -1 for 300 seconds, the distribution being logarithmic. The composition may be film-forming or non-film-forming, depending, for example, on the nature of the support to be made up. In the case of a film-forming composition, it will be ensured that the kinetics of filming do not prevent the migration towards the surface of the particles with a color effect. The composition may be devoid of film-forming agent, such as, for example, nitrocellulose. The composition may be devoid of any coloring agent other than the color effect particles. Alternatively, the composition may comprise at least one coloring agent other than these particles, for example a dye or a pigment, which may be interferential, possibly.

The presence within the composition, on the one hand, of the particles having a color effect and, on the other hand, of another coloring agent, in particular of an interference pigment, may for example make it possible to mask the color of the particles. color effect when lighting level is low. When the illumination level becomes more intense and the migration of the color effect particles has been done correctly, the color effect adds to the color of the other coloring agent. This may make it possible to make a composition having an additional attraction in the highlights.

The amount of the other coloring agent introduced into the composition may be related to the particle size thereof and may be selected so as not to interfere with the migration of the coloring particles. When the other coloring agent is an interference pigment, the size of this interference pigment may thus be less than or equal to 80 m and for example greater than or equal to 40 m. By size, we denote the average size distribution to half of the population, still designated D50. The composition may be devoid of solid bodies other than the particles arranged to produce the color effect and any other coloring agent (s). This can contribute to the transparency of the medium containing the color effect particles and the other coloring agent (s). This transparency may make it possible not to mask the light reflected by the color effect particles and not to attenuate it unduly. The mass content of solid bodies within the composition other than the particles with a color effect may, for example, be less than or equal to 15%, more preferably 5%.

The composition may be for application to skin, lips, nails, or hair. The composition may be applied to the keratin materials or as a top coat on a base coat which may be colored.

According to one of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a fluid cosmetic composition comprising: at least one oil, in particular one or more hydrocarbon-based oils, the total oily fatty substance content of the composition being, for example, greater or equal to 50%, in particular greater than or equal to 85%, one or more organic volatile solvents with a boiling point (at Patm) of less than or equal to 150 ° C., more preferably 105 ° C., better still less than or equal to 90 ° C. , in a total mass content of less than or equal to 15 or 20%, more preferably 10%, - particles with a color effect, especially a pigment diffracting in a mass content of less than or equal to 10%, better 2%, even better 0.5 %.

The total solids content in such a composition is advantageously less than or equal to 15%, more preferably 5%, by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Preferably, the viscosity of such a composition is from 0.5 Pa.s to 10 Pa.s at 25 ° C. under a shear of 1000 sec -1. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition comprising: a cosmetically acceptable medium having a viscosity of between 0.5 Pa.s and 10 Pa.s at 25 ° C. under a shear of 1000 s- ', comprising: - at least one volatile solvent in a mass content of between 1 and 20%, better still 3 and 20%, more preferably 3 and 15%, with a boiling point of less than or equal to 150 ° C., better still C, better still 10 90 C, compatible with the other compounds of the medium, - at least one compound or mixture of liquid compounds, with a boiling point greater than or equal to that of the volatile solvent (s), especially at 150 ° C., the mass content of this compound or of this mixture being greater than or equal to 50%, particles with a color effect in a mass content of less than or equal to 10%, more preferably 2%, especially aluminum diffracting particles. Demonstration of the migration of particles towards the surface The rise and the alignment of the particles having a color effect after the application of the composition is illustrated very schematically in FIG. 1. This rise can take place relatively quickly after the application. on keratin materials such as the skin, for example in less than five minutes. After this period, the color effect may not vary significantly with the naked eye.

Several tests can be used to highlight the phenomenon of rising particles. Test sandpaper A layer about 300 m thick is applied in the fluid state on a sandpaper, with a sufficient thickness to completely cover the sandpaper.

The color effect occurs during evaporation of the volatile solvent (s). Where appropriate, a comparative test may be carried out with a composition comprising the same color-effect particles but wherein they do not migrate to the surface. In this case, the color effect is non-existent or less intense, because of the roughness of the support. Test of the cup The composition is poured into a relatively deep dish, for example 10 mm deep. The rise of particles is accompanied by the appearance on the surface of a color effect that becomes more and more intense. When the cup is transparent, observation on the side can show a higher concentration of particles near the surface. The rise and alignment of the color effect particles may be only partial without departing from the scope of the present invention, migration of the particles not being complete. Color effect The color effect whose intensity increases with the migration and alignment of the particles is, for example, a color effect which is only manifested in the presence of a relatively large number of substantially aligned particles present in the body. the surface of the composition or in its vicinity. The color effect can in particular be a decomposition effect of the spectrum of visible light, also called rainbow effect, when the color effect particles used are particles comprising a diffraction grating. Such a color effect may be very dependent on the orientation of the particles. The color effect can still be a single-color effect of a phenomenon of thin-layer interference or a metallic reflection effect also produced by an interference phenomenon. The color effect may still be a goniochromatic effect related to a thin-film interference structure. The color effect may, if necessary, be dependent on the temperature or the ambient light. The color effect can be highlighted by measuring the color path, if any.

The time necessary for the full manifestation of the color effect is, for example, greater than or equal to 10 s and, for example, less than or equal to 5 min, after application to the skin or the lips.

2903304 7 The color effect may only occur, if necessary, for certain lighting conditions, including light intensity. Particles with a color effect The particles with a color effect advantageously have an elongated shape, especially a wafer, in particular in order to be able to take a common orientation. The particles may be in a mass content, in the composition, less than or equal to 10%, more preferably 2%, for example of the order of 0.5% or less. Due to the rise of the particles, the invention makes it possible to increase the concentration of the particles where their presence is useful, which makes it possible to have a concentration in the relatively low composition. The particles may be configured to produce a color effect by an interference phenomenon and may be diffracting particles having at least one diffraction grating. The grating may be present on opposite major faces of the particles.

The particles may further comprise an interferential multilayer structure, which may be symmetrical. The particle diffraction grating may comprise a periodic pattern, in particular a line, the distance between two adjacent patterns being of the same order of magnitude as the wavelength of the incident light.

When the incident light is polychromatic, the diffraction grating will separate the different spectral components of the light and produce a rainbow effect. The article on Pigments Exhibiting Diffractive Effects by Alberto Argoitia and Matt Witzman, 2002, Society of Vacuum Coaters, 45th Annual Technical Conference 25 Proceedings 2002. The diffraction grating can be used with reference to the structure of the diffracting particles. made with patterns having different profiles, including triangular, symmetrical or not, in crenellations, constant width or not, sinusoidal. The spatial frequency of the grating and the depth of the patterns will be selected according to the degree of separation of the different orders desired. The frequency can vary for example between 500 and 3000 lines per mm. The same particle may comprise two diffraction gratings, perpendicular or not.

The diffraction grating particles may have a multilayer structure comprising a layer of a reflective material, covered at least on one side with a layer of a dielectric material. The latter can impart better rigidity and durability to the diffractive pigment. The dielectric material may then be selected from, for example, the following materials: MgF 2, SiO 2, Al 2 O 3, AlF 3, CeF 3, LaF 3, NdF 3, SmF 2, BaF 2, CaF 2, LiF and their combinations. The reflective material may be chosen for example from metals and their alloys and also from non-metallic reflective materials. Among the metals that can be used include Al, Ag, Cu, Au, Pt, Sn, Ti, Pd, Ni, Co, Rd, Nb, Cr and their materials, combinations or alloys. Such a reflective material can, alone, constitute the diffraction grating particle which will then be monolayer. Alternatively, the diffractive pigment may comprise a multilayer structure comprising a core of a dielectric material covered with a reflective layer at least on one side, or even completely encapsulating the core. A layer of a dielectric material may also cover the reflective layer (s). The dielectric material used is then preferably inorganic, and may be chosen for example from metal fluorides, metal oxides, metal sulfides, metal nitrides, metal carbides and their combinations. The dielectric material may be in the crystalline, semicrystalline or amorphous state. The dielectric material, in this configuration, may for example be selected from the following materials: MgF 2, SiO 2, SiO 2, Al 2 O 3, TiO 2, WO, AlN, BN, B 4 C, WC, TiC, TiN, N 4 Si 3, ZnS, particles of glass, diamond-like carbons and their associations. Alternatively, the diffractive pigment may be composed of a preformed dielectric or ceramic material such as a natural lamella mineral, for example peroskovite mica or talc, or synthetic lamellae formed from glass, alumina, SiO2, carbon, iron oxide / mica, mica coated with BN, BC, graphite, bismuth oxychloride, and combinations thereof. The diffractive pigment used may in particular be chosen from those described in US patent application US 2003/0031870.

A diffractive pigment may comprise, for example, the following structure: MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2, a diffractive pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver by the company FLEX PRODUCTS, 2903304 9 or SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver FG. The proportion by weight of the MgF 2 can be between 80 and 95% of the total weight of the pigment. SPECTRA F / X Silver pigments from SPECTRATEK can also be mentioned.

The diffractive pigment may also be that found in the dispersion proposed by ECKART under the reference METALURE PRISMATIC. The dispersion METALURE PRISMATIC contains 95% of ethyl acetate and 5% of diffracting aluminum particles of 501um particle size. The pigment particles can be recovered after distillation of ethyl acetate, which can be replaced by isononyl isononanoate, for example. Such a pigment has a mass content of aluminum of about 90 to 100% and between 5000 and 20,000 diffracting units per cm 2, being described in the publication WO 2005/05 5965 A1. The size of the particles with a color effect can be understood between 5 and 200 m, better between 5 and 100 m. The thickness of the particles with a color effect may be less than or equal to 3 m, more preferably 2 m, for example of the order of 1 m. The density of the color effect particles may be lower than that of the medium in which they are dispersed.

Other optional coloring agents The composition may comprise one or more pigments other than that or those producing the color effect whose intensity increases after application due to their migration to the surface.

This or these additional pigments can be chosen, if necessary, so as to have a possible migration rate to the surface less than that of the color effect particles. Thus, the latter remain closest to the surface and are not obscured beyond measure by the other pigment or pigments. The other pigment or pigments may be in a total mass content in the composition chosen according to their particle size so as not to prevent the rise of the color effect particles. The other pigment or pigments may comprise reflective particles, that is to say the size, the structure, in particular the thickness of the layer or layers which constitute it and their physical and chemical natures, and the state surface, allow them to reflect the incident light. This reflection can, if necessary, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when it is applied to the support to make up, highlight points visible to the naked eye is that is, brighter points that contrast with their surroundings by appearing to shine. The reflective particles may have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection. The reflective particles may be present in the first composition at a content ranging from 0% to 15%, preferably 0.1 to 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition. These particles may have various forms, in particular be in the form of platelets or globular, in particular spherical. The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multilayer or non-multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially a reflective material. When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed for example of metal oxides, including synthetically obtained titanium or iron oxides. When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, these may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or material. metallic. The substrate may be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and / or inorganic. The composition may also comprise, among the at least one other pigment, at least one mother-of-pearl which may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye including the aforementioned type and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

By way of illustration of the nacres that may be introduced into the composition, mention may especially be made of gold-colored mother-of-pearls sold especially by Engelhard under the name Brillant Gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold (Timica). ), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the 5 bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the red-colored pearlescent agents sold especially by Merck under the name Sienna Fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company 25 MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. The density of the pigments other than this producing the color effect may be greater than the density of the color effect pigment.

The composition may also comprise dyes, organic pigments or lacquers. The dyes may be fat-soluble or water-soluble.

The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, (3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC yellow 5, quinoline yellow, the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and methylene blue, the dyes may for example represent from 0 to 5%, for example from 0.01 to 5% by weight of the composition when organic lakes or pigments may be selected from the following materials and mixtures thereof: - cochineal carmine, - organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinolinic, triphenylmethane dyes, of fluoran, organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene dyes pyr eniques, quinoliniques, triphenylmethane, fluoran, these dyes may comprise at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group. Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned those known under the following denominations: D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 20, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange No. 10, D & C Orange # 11, D & C Red # 6, D & C Red # 7, D & C Red # 17, D & C Red # 21, D & C Red # 22, D & C Red # 27, D & C Red # 28, D & C Red # 30, D & C Red n 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red 25 No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6. The organic coloring material may comprise an organic lacquer supported by an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example. Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D & C Red n 2 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 3 Aluminum 30 lake, D & C Red n 4 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 6 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 6 Barium lake, D & C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red # 6 Strontium lake, D & C Red # 6Potassium lake, D & C Red # 7 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 7 Barium lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D & C Red No. 7 2903304 13 Zirconium lake, D & C Red No. 8 Sodium lake, D & C Red No. 9 Aluminum lake, D & C Red No. 9 Barium lake, D & C Red No. 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red No. 9 Zirconium lake , D & C Red n 10 Sodium lake, D & C Red n 19 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 19 Barium lake, D & C Red n 19 Zirconium lake, D & C Red n 21 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 21 5 Zirconium lake, D & C Red n 22 Aluminum lake , D & C Red n 27 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium lake, D & C Red n 27 Barium lake, D & C Red n 27 Calcium lake, D & C Red n 27 Zirconium lake, D & C Red n 28 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 30 lake, D & C Red n 31 Calcium lake, D & C Red n 33 Aluminum lake, D & C Red 34 Calcium lake, D & C Red 36 lake, D & C Red n 40 Aluminum lake, 10 D & C Blue n 1 Aluminum lake, D & C Green n 3 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 4 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 5 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 5 Zirconium lake, D & C Orange n 10 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 17 Barium Lake, D & C Yellow # 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow # 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow # 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow # 7 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow # 10 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Blue # 15 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red # 4 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake. The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffs mentioned above are mentioned in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, of which the content is incorporated in this application by reference. The composition may comprise a composite pigment. The latter can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core and at least one at least partial coating of at least one organic dyestuff. At least one binder 25 may advantageously contribute to the attachment of the organic dyestuff to the inorganic core. Charges The composition may comprise, in addition to the particles with a color effect and the other coloring agent (s) possibly present, at least one filler.

Filler means particles of any form, insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is made. A filler can serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. The nature and amount of the particles may be dependent on the desired mechanical properties and textures, but the amount of filler (s) will be chosen so as not to unduly prevent migration to the surface of the color effect particles or to prevent obtaining the desired color effect. By way of example of fillers, mention may be made, inter alia, of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, sericite, powders of polyamide, of polyolefin, for example of polyethylene, of polytetrafluoroethylene, of polymethacrylate, methyl, polyurethane, starch powders and silicone resin beads. The content of charges may be relatively low, for example less than or equal to 15% by weight.

Volatile solvent (s) The composition comprises at least one volatile solvent which has a boiling point, at atmospheric pressure, less than or equal to 150 ° C., better still less than or equal to 120 ° C., better still less than or equal to 105 C or 90 C.

This solvent can be organic. The solvent is for example selected from ethanol (Teb 78 C), isopropanol (Teb 82.4 C) and HDMS (Teb 100 C), their mixtures, among others. The volatile solvent may be fully miscible in the liquid phase of the composition and compatible therewith.

The total content of volatile solvent (s) whose evaporation causes convection movements in the medium may be less than or equal to 20%, for example ranging from 2 to 20% for ethanol or isopropanol and 2 to 15% for the HDMS, being chosen according to the nature of the materials to be made up. The weight ratio of this or these volatile solvent (s) relative to the other liquid compounds of the medium is, for example, from 0.005 to 0.11, better still from 0.02 to 0.07. Greasy phase The composition may comprise a fatty phase, which may comprise one or more liquid compounds having a boiling point greater than that of the volatile solvent or solvents responsible for convection movements, especially a boiling temperature greater than or equal to 150 C. The composition may comprise at least one fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and / or optionally a fatty substance that is solid at ambient temperature, in suspension, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and mixtures thereof. in that its presence does not prevent the rise of the particles and that the composition remains sufficiently transparent. As liquid fatty substances at room temperature, often called oils, mention may be made of: vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or oils sunflower, maize, soya, grape seed, sesame, apricot, macadamia, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter, lanolin, acetylated lanolin; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, for example purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, erucate octyl-2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; isononyl isonanoate, isopropyl lanolate, tridecyl trimellilate, diisostearyl malate; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils; silicone oils, such as volatile or nonvolatile polymethylsiloxanes, linear or cyclic, liquid or pasty at room temperature, such as cyclomethicones or dimethicones, optionally comprising a phenyl group, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes or diphenylmethyldimethyltrisiloxanes; diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, polymethylphenyl siloxanes; their mixtures. The oil or oils listed above may be present in a total content ranging from 0% to 95% depending on the oil, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oil (s) may be selected to be compatible with the volatile low boiling solvent (s) and so as not to unduly increase the viscosity of the composition.

The composition may be free of pasty or solid fatty substances such as waxes and gums, for example. Active ingredients and other compounds The composition may comprise at least one cosmetic or dermatological active agent. As cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active agents that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of moisturizers (polyol as glycerol), vitamins (C, A, E, F, B, or PP), essential fatty acids, essential oils, ceramides, sphingolipids, liposoluble sunscreens or 10 in the form of nanoparticles, the specific active agents for treating the skin (protective agents, anti-bacterial agents, anti-wrinkle agents, etc.), self-tanning agents. These active agents may be used for example at concentrations of 0 to 20% and especially 0.001 to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition. More generally, the composition may contain any ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as, for example, thickeners, surfactants, trace elements, moisturizers, softeners, sequestering agents, perfumes, alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives. , antioxidants, UV filters and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention may thus comprise, according to the type of application envisaged, the constituents conventionally used in the fields under consideration, which are present in an amount appropriate to the desired dosage form. The composition may be devoid of any film forming agent, as mentioned above. As a variant, the composition may comprise a film-forming polymer, that is to say a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of a film-forming auxiliary agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on the keratin materials. It will be ensured in the presence of one or more film-forming agents that the kinetics of filming do not completely impede the rise of the color-effect particles. Proposed Examples The proportions given below are mass proportions, unless otherwise specified. Measuring the Color Path In the examples below, the color path is measured as follows.

The formula is spread on a standardized LENETA lA contrast chart at a thickness of 250 m and at a spreading rate of 1 (BRAIVE INSTRUMENTS spreading bench). We wait 5 minutes before making the measurement. The contrast map is placed under a GON 360 reference spectrogoniorflectometer, according to the measurement geometry illustrated in FIG. 2, the measurement being made at the angles 45/30, 45/20, 45/10, 45/0, 45%. 10, 45% 20, 45% 30, 45% 40, 450 / -45.0 45% 50, 45% 60, 450 / -70 and 450 / -80.

 EXAMPLE 1 Aluminum diffracting particles of size 50 m extracted from the dispersion METALURE PRISMATIC Polybutene exists under different molecular weight, which makes it possible to vary the viscosity of the formula. Octyldodecanol contributes to the stability of the composition.

With this formula, the color path given in FIG. 3 is obtained. The viscosity is 4.9 Pa.s under a shear of 1000 s -1 at 25 ° C. EXAMPLE 2 In this example, the diffracting particles are associated with a purple pigment. * idem example 1. Polybutene (MW 1290 g / mol) Octyldodecanol Ethanol Isononyl isononanoate Diffracting aluminum particles * 76.9 8.7 6.5 7.75 0.15 Polybutene Octyldodecanol Isononyl I sononano ate Diffractive aluminum particles * Ethanol Pigment ** 73.2 8.3 5.35 0.15 6.2 4.8 20 2903304 18 ** pigment marketed under the reference DUOCROME SPARKLE RB624J by ENGELHARD, of mica composition 69.5%, TiO2 28%, carmine 2 , 5%. With this composition, the color path represented in FIG. 4 is obtained.

Example 3 In this example, the diffractive particles are associated with a gold-colored interference pigment. 10 * ditto example 1. *** pigment marketed by ENGELHARD under the reference DESERT REFLECTIONS SUNLIT CACTUS 832D composition 48% TiO2, mica, 40%, 12% iron oxides. With this composition, the color path given in FIG. 5 is obtained.

For Examples 1 to 3, the sandpaper and cup tests are conclusive. It is the same in case of application on the skin. For examples 2 and 3, under low light, we observe the mass color of the additional pigment which makes it possible to mask the gray color of the diffracting aluminum particles and under high brightness the color effect due to the diffractive pigment which is added to that of the additional pigment. Polybutene Octyldodecanol Isononyl I sononano ate Diffractive aluminum particles * Ethanol Interferential pigment *** 73.2 8.3 7.35 0.15 6.2 4.8 5 2903304 Comparative example 1 Polybutene 76.9 Octyldodecanol 8.7 Isononyl Isononanoate 7 Cyclopentadimetyl Siloxane (211 C Teb) 6.5 Diffracting Aluminum Particles * 0.15 * Idem Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Polybutene 76, 9 Octyldodecanol 8, 7 Isononyl Isononanoate 7.75 Isododecane (Teb 176 to 192 C) 6 Diffracting aluminum particles * 0.15 * same as example 1. For these two compositions, the diffracting effect is practically nil during the test of the cup.

The color path is almost non-existent, as can be seen in FIGS. 6 and 7 which respectively represent the color paths for the compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2. The expression comprising one must be understood as being synonymous with having at least one, unless the opposite is specified. 19

Claims (43)

  1. A fluid cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more volatile solvents and particles with a color effect, the medium being capable of allowing, after formation of a deposit of the composition on keratin materials, the effect color to be revealed gradually after the application due to a rise of particles towards the surface of the deposit during the evaporation of volatile solvent (s).   2. Composition according to claim 1, the volatile solvent or solvents being organic.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, the volatile solvent (s) being in a total mass content of less than or equal to 20% in the composition.   4. Composition according to the preceding claim, the mass content being less than or equal to 15%.   5. Composition according to claim 4, the mass content being less than or equal to 10%.   6. Composition according to claim 4, the mass content being less than or equal to 6%.   7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the volatile solvent (s) having a boiling point (at atmospheric pressure) less than or equal to 150 ° C.   8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the volatile solvent (s) having a boiling point less than or equal to 105 ° C.   9. Composition according to claim 8, the volatile solvent (s) having a boiling point of less than or equal to 90 ° C.   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the medium comprising a liquid compound or a mixture of liquid compounds, compatible with the volatile solvent (s), with a boiling point greater than or equal to that of the volatile solvent (s). 30   11. Composition according to claim 10, said boiling temperature of at least one liquid compound other than the volatile solvent (s) being greater than or equal to 150 ° C. 2903304 21   12. Composition according to claim 10 or 11, said liquid compound or said mixture of liquid compounds being in a mass content greater than or equal to that of the volatile solvent or solvents, in particular greater than or equal to 50%.   13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the color effect particles having a generally platelet-like form.   14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the particles having a color effect having a size greater than or equal to 5 m.   15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the color effect particles are configured to produce a color effect by an interference phenomenon.   16. Composition according to the preceding claim, the color effect particles comprising at least one diffraction grating.   17. Composition according to the preceding claim, the color effect particles having an interferential multilayer structure. 15   18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the color effect particles comprising a metal.   19. Composition according to claim 18, the metal being aluminum.   20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a volatile solvent selected from ethanol, isopropanol and HDMS.   21. Composition according to claim 20, the mass content of this solvent being less than or equal to 15%, more preferably 10%.   22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the medium comprising an oil.   23. Composition according to the preceding claim, the oil having a boiling point greater than or equal to that of the volatile solvent (s), in particular greater than or equal to 150 ° C.   24. The composition of claim 22 or 23, the oil being hydrocarbon.   25. Composition according to any one of claims 22 to 24, the oil being in a mass content ranging from 20 to 99%, more preferably from 50 to 99%. 30   26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the viscosity of the composition at 25 ° C. and under a shear of 1000 s -1 being greater than or equal to 0.5 Pa · s. 2903304 22   27. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the viscosity of the composition at 25 C being less than or equal to 10 Pa.s under a shear of 1000 s- '.   28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, being free of film-forming agent, in particular nitrocellulose.   29. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, being devoid of a coloring agent other than the color-effect particles.   30. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 28, comprising at least one coloring agent other than the color effect particles. 10   31. Composition according to claim 30, the coloring agent comprising a pigment, in particular an interference pigment.   32. A composition according to claim 31, the pigment being selected to have a possible migration rate to the surface less than that of the color effect particles. 15   33. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, being devoid of solid bodies other than the color effect particles and the optional other coloring agent (s).   34. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the mass content of solid bodies within the composition, other than the color-effect particles, being less than or equal to 15%.   35. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the mass content of solid bodies within the composition, other than the color-effect particles, being less than or equal to 5%, more preferably 2%.   36. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the color-effect particles being in a mass content in the composition of less than or equal to 0.5%.   37. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, intended to be applied to the skin.   38. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 35 for being applied to the lips.   39. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 35, being intended to be applied to the nails. 2903304 23   40. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 35, being intended to be applied to the hair.   41. Cosmetic composition comprising: one or more volatile organic solvents having a boiling point (at atmospheric pressure) of less than or equal to 150 ° C., more preferably 105 ° C., and a total mass content of less than or equal to 20%, better 10%, at least one oil, in particular having a boiling point greater than or equal to 150 ° C., the total oily fatty substance content of the composition being greater than or equal to 50%, color-effect particles, in particular a diffractive pigment, in a mass content less than or equal to 2%, the total mass content of solids being less than or equal to 15%, more preferably 5%, the viscosity of the composition ranging from 0.5 to 10 Pa.s at 25 C under a shear of 1000 s -1. 15   42. A process for making up keratin materials, comprising the steps of forming thereon a deposit of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims and allowing the deposit to dry in such a manner as to allow the effect particles coloriel contained in the composition to go back to the surface of the deposit and take the same general direction. 20   43. Method according to the preceding claim, the duration of obtaining the color effect related to the rise of the particles being less than or equal to 5 minutes.