FR2902332A1 - Cosmetic use of non-ionic oxyethylenated polydimethyl siloxane i.e. water-soluble or hydrodispersible, as moisturizer of keratinous materials - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of non-ionic oxyethylenated polydimethyl siloxane i.e. water-soluble or hydrodispersible, as moisturizer of keratinous materials.

Description

USE OF POLYDIMETHYLSILOXANES OXYETHYLENES AS AGENTS

MOISTURIZERS

  The present application relates to the use of nonionic oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane polymers as moisturizing agents for keratin materials and more particularly the skin. The Stratum Corneum is the thin stratum corneum that forms the interface between the body and the drying environment. It is formed of the upper epithelial tissue: the epidermis, and connective tissue located below: the dermis. The Stratum Corneum, about 10 to 15 m thick, consists of vertically stacked corneocytes surrounded by a matrix of lipids organized in lamellar liquid crystal phase. Thus, it is a two-compartment system that can be compared to a brick wall, consisting of anucleate cells (bricks) and intercellular lamellar liquid crystal phases (cement). One of the functions of the Stratum Corneum is to regulate the flow of water into and out of the skin and thus to delay the excessive loss of water from the deeper layers of the epidermis. The Stratum Corneum also protects against mechanical aggression and the passage of chemicals and foreign microorganisms. It is also the first defense against UV radiation. In general, a moisturizing agent is defined as a substance that decreases the feeling of dry skin by affecting the water content of the skin by addition or retention. Generally, corneometry is the method used to measure the hydration provided by humectants such as glycerol, urea and its derivatives. But this method can not be used to highlight the moisturizing properties of polymers, so it was necessary to develop a suitable method to highlight the moisturizing properties of polymers. Different methods based on spectroscopic techniques (infrared, Raman, NMR, etc.) have been developed in recent years with the aim of improving the knowledge of the skin, in particular in the medical field. These techniques have the advantage of not requiring any special preparation of the sample and are non-invasive and non-destructive. These methods are described in particular in: 1. K. Wichrowski, G. Sore, and A. Khaiat, "Use of infrared spectroscopy for in vivo measurement of stratum corneum moisturization after application of cosmetic preparations," Int. J. Cos. Sci. 17, 1-11 (1995). 2. Querleux B, Richard S, Bittoun J, Jolivet O, Idy-peretti I, Bazin R, Lévêque JL: In vivo hydration profile in skin layers by high-resolution magnetic resonance imaging. Skin Pharmacol 1994; 7: 210-216. 3. B. Schrader, B. Dippel, S. Fendel, S. Keller, T. Lochte, M. Riedl, R. Schulte, and E. Tatsch, "NIR FT Raman Spectroscopy, New Tool in Medical Diagnosis," Mol. Struct. 408/409, 23-31 (1997). In the context of the present application, the method adopted for measuring the amount of water supplied by polymer solutions at 1% by weight is laser confocal microscopy associated with Raman spectroscopy.

  Raman spectroscopy provides information on the molecular composition and structure of the test sample. Associated with confocal microscopy, it offers the advantage of providing information on the Stratum Corneum from the surface of the skin to a depth of a few tens of microns. In addition, the method used in this application has the advantage of being non-invasive and non-destructive. This method has established that the polymers used in accordance with the present application are such that a 1% solution by weight of these polymers makes it possible to provide a water content at least equal to that provided by a 7% solution. % by weight of glycerol. To implement this method, Isolated Stratum Corneum, compacted Stratum Corneum dander pellets, artificial skin (Episkin, Matek, Skinethic ...) from cosmetic surgery skin can be used as an evaluation support. . These examples are not limiting, all the media modeling the skin can be used.

  In the context of the present application, compacted dander pellets having a weight of 80 to 100 mg, a thickness of more than 100 μm and a surface area of approximately 1 cm 2 are used as a Stratum Corneum model; 5 measurements are made on each plantar pellet and 5 pellets are used for each polymer solution, 25 measurements for each polymer solution. The amount of polymer solution applied to each pellet is about 501.11. A Raman laser confocal laser of the LabRam type (Jobin Yvon in Horiba) equipped with a He: Ne laser (X = 633 nm power of approximately 8.4 mW) and a CCD detector is used to carry out the measurements. The laser beam is focused in the skin with an X50 lens and the Raman spectra are recorded using a point-to-point mode, from the sample surface, to the depth. The acquisition parameters of the spectra are: hole and slit: 2001.tm, acquisition time: 30s on a frequency of 2800 to 4000 cm-1. The microscope in question was the subject of a technical modification essential to the measurement of water, with the incorporation of an enclosure allowing to control during the acquisitions the temperature and the humidity: the parameters are of 25 C and 50% relative humidity. The quantification of the water is determined by the ratio of the OH bands of the water / CH3 bands of the proteins, in Raman spectrography, as described in: 1 Chrit L, Hadjur C, Morel S, Sockalingum GD, Lebourdon G, Leroy F, Manfait M: In vivo chemical investigation of Human skin using a confocal Raman Optic microprobe. J. Biomed Opt 2005. 2 Caspers PJ, Lucassen GW, EA Carter, Bruining HA, GJ Puppels: In vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy of the skin: noninvasive determination of molecular concentration profiles. Journal of Investigative Dermatology 2001; 116 (3): 434-442. The water / protein ratios in the Stratum Corneum were determined in Raman spectrography, by calculating the ratio between the intensity of the OH bands of the water (area under the curve) integrated between 3350cm "1 and 3550 cm-1 and the Intensity of protein integrated CH3 bands (area under the curve) between 2910cm-1 and 2965 cm-1 The quantification of water is calculated from the following equations

  W / P = (mW / mp) R Water content (%): mW, '(mW + mp) = 100% (W / P) / (W / (P + R)) mW and mp being respectively the masses of water and protein in the volume of the sample tested W being the intensity of the Raman signal of the integrated water (integrated OH bands of the water (area under the curve)); Where P is the intensity of the Raman signal of integrated proteins (integrated CH3 bands of protein (area under the curve)); R is a proportionality constant expressing the ratio between the Raman signals of water and proteins in a 50% solution. The water content is expressed in gram of water per 100 g of wet tissue.

  These features are integrated into Jobin-Yvon Horiba's LabSpec software. To evaluate the moisturizing performance, the measurements are made at T = 0, before the treatment and at T + 1 hour after the treatment, from the surface to 20 m depth. The problem posed by the present application was to propose families of compounds that can be used as moisturizing agents for keratin materials and more particularly for the skin. The inventors of the present application have shown that this problem can be solved by means of water-soluble or water-dispersible nonionic oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane polymers.

  The subject of the present application is the cosmetic use of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible oxyethylenated nonionic polydimethylsiloxane polymer, as a moisturizing agent for keratin materials and more particularly for the skin. By water-soluble polymer is meant a polymer having a solubility in water at room temperature (25 C) of at least 1% by weight. By hydrodispersible polymer is meant a polymer capable of dispersing in water without precipitating. Nonionic oxyethylenated polydimethyl siloxane polymers have been shown to be more moisturizing than glycerol. The silicones that can be used as moisturizing agents in the sense of the present patent application are preferably chosen from the compounds of general formulas (I) and (II): ## STR1 ## where R 5 (R 5 Si) [(OSiR 5) u / vO-P] v with: - P = - (OC 2 H 4) y- (OC 3 H 6) z -OR 7 - R 7 = C 1 -C 4 alkyl - the R 5 radicals, which may be identical or different, denote a selected monovalent hydrocarbon radical; among the alkyl, aryl and aralkyl groups containing not more than 10 carbon atoms and preferably chosen from C1-C4 lower alkyls such as methyl, ethyl or butyl or else chosen from phenyl and benzyl and even more preferentially denote all methyl; u is 0 to 59, preferably 10 to 50 and more preferably 12 to 25; v is 1 to 12, preferably 4 to 10 and more preferably 15 to 8; E denotes a group -CXH2x- (OC2H4) y- (OC3H6) z-OR6 where: x is 1 to 8, preferably 2 to 4 and more preferably 3; - y> 0 and z 0; y and z are chosen so that the total molar mass of the radical E ranges from 200 to 10,000 g / mol and more preferably from 350 to 3,000; preferably, the number z is zero; - R6 is hydrogen; a C1-C8 alkyl radical, linear or branched, preferably C1-C4 as methyl; a C2-C8 acyl radical, preferably a C2-C4 acyl radical. In formula E, when z is positive, the oxyethylene and oxypropylene units may be randomly distributed in the polyether chain E and / or in block form. The silicones according to the invention are known and in particular described in US Pat. No. 5,338,352 and their mode of preparation is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,847,398. Such silicones of formula (I) are for example sold by OSI under the trade names Silwet L-7002, Silwet L-7600, Silwet L-7604, Silwet L-7605, Silwet L-7607, Silwet 1614. , Silwet L-7657, Silwet L-7200, Silwet L7230, or by the company General Electric under the trade names Silsoft 305 (INCI name: PEG-5 / PPG-3 trisiloxane), Silsoft 820, Silsoft 880 (INCI name: PEG -12 Dimethicone), Silsoft 890, Silsoft 430 (INCI name: PEG / PPG-20/23 Dimethicone), Silsoft 900 (INCI name: PEG-12 Dimethicone).

  Such silicones of formula (II) are for example sold by the company OSI under the trade names Silwet L-720, Silwet L-720 AP, Silwet L-722, Silwet L-7657, Silwet L-7200, Silwet L7230. Such silicones are also sold by Goldschmidt under the trade names Tegowet 260, Tegowet 500, Tegowet 505 and Tegowet 510.

  The nonionic, water-soluble or water-dispersible oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane polymers which can be used in the context of the present application can be used alone or in mixtures. The inventors of the present application have shown that the polymers used in accordance with the present application are such that a solution containing 1% by weight of these polymers makes it possible to supply a quantity of water in the Stratum Corneum at least equal to that provided by a solution containing 7% by weight of glycerol.

  Advantageously, the polymer used according to the invention is such that, introduced in an aqueous solution at 0.05% (by weight) at 25 ° C., it makes it possible to reduce the surface tension of the water to a value of less than 35 mN / m. and preferably less than 30 mN / m. The following table gathers surface tension values at 25 C of aqueous solutions comprising 0.05% (w / w) of different wetting agents. Wetting agent 0.05% surface tension in water (mN / m) Tegowet 500 33 Tegowet 510 29 Silsoft 880 26 Silsoft 305 21 As part of the present application, nonionic oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane polymers are used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions in an amount of between 0.01% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The compositions used according to the invention contain a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say, compatible with cutaneous tissues such as the skin and the scalp. This physiologically acceptable medium may more particularly consist of water and optionally of a physiologically acceptable organic solvent chosen, for example, from lower alcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units and polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerine and sorbitol. The compositions used according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-5 emulsions. oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or H / W / H), aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules which may be polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick. When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances. As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl stearate -2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- their mixtures.

  By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

  The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by the company Dow Corning or under the names Gransil by the company Grant Industries. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol. sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning and cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US Pat. No. 5,412,004 and examples US-A-5,811,487, especially the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of US-A-5,412,004. and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin Etsu.

  For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate. In known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition used according to the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters UV, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, plant extracts and salts. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase and / or into the aqueous phase. In the context of cosmetic compositions, the compounds of formula (I) or (II) may be combined with one another, or with other additional skin hydrating agents, that is to say not in accordance with the formula ( I) or (II), and / or at least one other cosmetic active. As such an additional cosmetic asset, there may be mentioned the active agents acting on the barrier function of the skin, the active agents promoting the hydration of the skin and the desquamating agents.

  In the context of dermatological compositions, the compounds of formula (I) or (II) may be combined with one another, or with other additional skin hydration agents, that is to say not in accordance with the formula ( I) or (II), and / or at least one other active ingredient, this active ingredient may be cosmetic or dermatological.

  As such an additional asset, there may be mentioned active agents acting on the barrier function of the skin, the active agents promoting the hydration of the skin and the desquamating agents. By desquamating agent is meant any compound capable of acting: or directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as (3-hydroxyacids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid), α-hydroxyacids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids, urea, gentisic acid, oligofucoses, cinnamic acid, Saphora japonica extract, resveratrol, or enzymes involved in desquamation or the degradation of corneodesmosomes, such as glycosidases, the Stratum Corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like), mention may be made of the chelating agents of mineral salts: EDTA; acyl-N, N ', N' ethylene diaminetriacetic; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular N- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-N'-2-ethanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine. Among the active agents acting on the barrier function of the skin, or promoting the hydration of the skin, mention may be made of: - either the compounds acting on the barrier function, with a view to maintaining the hydration of the stratum corneum, or the occlusive compounds , in particular ceramides, sphingoid-based compounds, lecithins, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols (stigmasterol, (3-sitosterol, campesterol), essential fatty acids, 1-2 diacylglycerol 4-chromanone, pentacyclic triterpenes such as ursolic acid, petrolatum and lanolin, or compounds directly increasing the water content of the Stratum Corneum, such as thralose and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives. derivatives, glycerol, pentanediol, sodium pidolate, serine, xylitol, sodium lactate, glycerol polyacrylate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan, oligo- and polysacchar wrinkles, cyclic carbonates, N-lauroyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and N-α-benzoyl-L-arginine; or compounds that activate the sebaceous glands, such as steroid derivatives (including DHEA) and vitamin D and its derivatives.

  The compositions can show their effectiveness as a non-therapeutic skin care treatment, that is, as a preventive measure. They can also be used as a non-therapeutic treatment of the skin after a manifestation of disorders of the hydration of the skin. The composition may be presented as a non-therapeutic care product and / or makeup, and also a lip balm. Among the makeup type applications that the cosmetic treatment process makes it possible to envisage, mention may be made of foundations, blushers, eyeshadows, concealer and body make-up. The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention, and can not limit the scope thereof.

  Examples The moisturizing performance of the following solutions was tested.

  Solution A Distilled water 93% Glycerol 7%

  Solution B Distilled water 99% Silsolft 880 1%

  Silsolft 880 is a polydimethylsiloxane containing oxyethylenated groups (12 0E). Solution C Distilled water Silsolft 305

  Solution D Silwet L-720 AP distilled water Solution Moisturizing performance measured according to the method Confocal Microscopy Raman Laser A 1 B 1.17 C 1.43 D 1.15 Significantly, oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane derivatives, dissolved in 1% water , have a moisturizing performance, measured in confocal laser Raman microscopy, higher than that of glycerol at 7% in water. Example of composition

  The following moisturizing cosmetic composition was carried out: Phase A 1: Sucrose distearate (marketed by the Company 2.0% "STEARINERIE DUBOIS") Sorbitan stearate oxyethylenated with 4 moles of oxide 1.4% ethylene (marketed under the name "TWEEN 10 16 99% 1%

  99% 1% 61 "by the Company ICI) Stearic acid 0.75% Stearyl heptanoate (marketed by the company 5.50% DRAGOCO under the name PCL solid) Vaseline codex 2, 1% Avocado oil 4.50 % Jojoba oil 4.10% Volatile silicone oil 3.70% Vitamin E acetate 0.50% Perfume Propylparaben Methyl paraben Triethanolamine Demineralized water Phase A2: Phase B: Phase C: Mix of carboxyvinyl polymers 0.30% (marketed under the name "CARBOPOL 980" by the company GOODRICH) PED-12 dimethicone (Silsoft 880 from General 2% Electric) demineralized water 9.70% silicone gum (marketed by the Company 4, 00% DOW CORNING under the name "Q2-1403 Fluid") 0.3% 0.1% 0.30% 0.40% qs 100.00% The two phases Al and B are brought to 65 C before being associated (B in Al) under very vigorous agitation (rotor-stator) After control of a perfect dispersion, it is possible, optionally, to homogenize the dispersion between 20.106 Pascal and 60.106 Pascal, to obtain a dispersion whose size of the oil globules is less than 500 nm. Phase A2 is dispersed at room temperature in the first dispersion, with vigorous stirring. Phase C, previously prepared, is then dispersed in order to gel the suspension. A moisturizing emulsion adapted for dry skin is obtained. Silsoft 880 contributes to this moisturizing activity.

Claims (5)

  1. Cosmetic use of at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible oxyethylenated nonionic polydimethylsiloxane polymer as a moisturizing agent for keratin materials.   2. Cosmetic use according to claim 1, characterized in that the polymer is a silicone chosen from the compounds of general formulas (I) and (II): ## STR5 ## [R 5 Si (R 5 Si)) (OSiR 5) u / vO-P] v with: - P = - (OC 2 H 4) y - (OC 3 H 6) z - OR 7 - R 7 = C 1 -C 4 alkyl - the R 5 radicals, which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent hydrocarbon radical chosen from the alkyl, aryl and aralkyl groups containing not more than 10 carbon atoms and preferably chosen from C1-C4 lower alkyls such as methyl, ethyl or butyl or else chosen from phenyl and benzyl and even more preferentially all methyl; u is 0 to 59, preferably 10 to 50 and more preferably 12 to 25; v is 1 to 12, preferably 4 to 10 and more preferably 5 to 8; E denotes a group -CXH2x- (OC2H4) y- (OC3H6) z-OR6 where: x is 1 to 8, preferably 2 to 4 and more preferably 3; - y> 0 and z 0; y and z are chosen so that the total molar mass of the radical E varies from 200 to 10,000 g / mol and more preferably from 350 to 3000; preferably, the number z is zero; - R6 is hydrogen; a C1-C8 alkyl radical, linear or branched, preferably C1-C4 as methyl; a C2-C8 acyl radical, preferably a C2-C4 acyl radical.   3. Cosmetic use according to claim 2, characterized in that the polymer is a silicone chosen from the compounds of general formulas (I) and (II) in which the radicals R5, which are identical or different, are chosen from C1-lower alkyls. C4 such as methyl, ethyl, butyl.   4. Cosmetic use according to claim 3 characterized in that the polymer is a silicone selected from the compounds of general formulas (I) and (II) in which the radicals R5 all denote methyl radicals.   5. Cosmetic use according to claim 2 or 3 characterized in that the polymer is a silicone selected from the compounds of general formulas (I) and (II) in which the radicals R5, identical or different, are chosen from phenyl and benzyle.30