FR2901131A1 - Preparing a cosmetic treatment formulation for keratinous material i.e. for hair coloring, comprises percolating a fluid at a specific pressure through a composition comprising a solid/pasty cosmetic compound and a anionic hydrotrope - Google Patents

Abstract

Preparation of a cosmetic treatment formulation for keratinous material, comprises percolation of a fluid at a pressure of >=3 bars through a composition comprising a cosmetic compound in the form of solid or paste in the presence of a anionic hydrotrope i.e. phenyl/pyridine derivative (I). Preparation of a cosmetic treatment formulation for keratinous material, comprises percolation of a fluid at a pressure of >=3 bars through a composition comprising a cosmetic compound in the form of solid or paste in the presence of a anionic hydrotrope i.e. phenyl/pyridine derivative of formula (I). X : -CH= or N; n : 0-12; R1COOM or SO3M; either R2OH or 1-4C alkyl; R3H or 1-4C alkyl; or R2, R35-6 membered, preferably 6 membered ring (optionally substituted by COOM); and M : H or mineral cations i.e. alkaline and/or alkaline earth metal cations, ensuring electroneutrality of (I). Independent claims are included for: (1) a cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials comprising preparing the cosmetic treatment formulation and applying the formulation on keratinous materials; and (2) a packaging device of composition comprising a closed housing bounded by at least a wall at least partially permeable to water vapor under a pressure of >=3 bars, where the composition comprises a cosmetic compound and (I). [Image].

Description

PREPARATION OF A FORMULATION FROM A PRESSURIZED FLUID, OF A

  The subject of the present invention is a process for the preparation of a cosmetic formulation intended for the treatment of keratinous substances, in particular of the skin and human keratinous fibers, such as those used in the treatment of keratinous substances. the hair, as well as a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials from this formulation.

  Whether in the field of the treatment of the skin or the hair, it is always sought to improve the aesthetic appearance and / or the cosmetic aspect of the keratin materials such as the skin and the hair. Thus, for example, it is conventional to modify the coloration of the hair or the skin by applying compositions comprising at least one dye or precursor solubilized dye. It is also intended to improve the cosmetic properties of keratin materials, for example to provide good hydration and good nutrition to the skin, to smooth it and / or to fade wrinkles. Furthermore, in the hair field, many compositions are intended to repair or limit the adverse effects of the chemical action of atmospheric agents and / or hair treatments such as permanent dyes or discolorations, but also to facilitate styling , the smoothing of the hair, to bring them shine, softness, suppleness, etc. In the majority of cases, the compositions used are aqueous. However, if the cosmetic compounds employed are not sufficiently soluble in the aqueous medium, a decrease in the desired effect can be observed by the use of such compositions. In addition, this solubility criterion reduces the number of cosmetic compounds that can be used. Moreover, when these cosmetic compounds are obtained from natural extracts such as plant extracts, the extraction of these compounds can be difficult with a low extraction yield. Recently, a method has been known to overcome the solubility problems discussed above by passing a fluid, the temperature of which is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C, under pressure, for a very short time, below by the minute, through at least one cosmetic compound in solid or pasty form. This process also makes it possible to use in anhydrous form unstable cosmetic compounds in an aqueous medium either because they react with water or because they react under these conditions with other ingredients present in the composition and with which they would not react if the medium was anhydrous. This type of process is also very advantageous because it makes it possible to formulate certain cosmetic compounds that are difficult to formulate in conventional cosmetic media. In addition, it is possible to obtain more or less concentrated compositions of cosmetic compound as needed, and advantageously without preservatives. Unfortunately, the percolation yields obtained by using this type of process can still be considered too low and the effectiveness of the compositions thus obtained still considered insufficient. It has surprisingly been found that the combination of anionic hydrotropes with a percolation process makes it possible, on the one hand, to increase the percolation yields and, on the other hand, to improve the effectiveness of the formulations thus obtained, while retaining the benefits provided by these methods.

  The subject of the invention is therefore a process for preparing a cosmetic treatment formulation for keratin materials, comprising a step of percolating the fluid under a pressure of at least 3 bars through a composition comprising at least one cosmetic compound. in solid or pasty form, in the presence of at least one anionic hydrotrope of formula (I) below: R3 \ / \ n R1

  In which: X represents the CH group or a nitrogen atom, n is an integer ranging from 0 to 12, R represents the COOM or SO3M group, R2 represents a hydroxyl radical or a C1-alkyl radical; -C4 linear or branched, • R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, • R2 and R3 can together form a unsaturated ring with 5 or 6-membered, preferably 6-membered, optionally substituted by a COOM group, M represents a hydrogen atom or one or more inorganic cations ensuring the electroneutrality of the compound of formula (I).

  Another object of the invention is constituted by a packaging device for carrying out the preparation method of the present invention. The invention likewise relates to a process for treating keratin materials using the formulation obtained according to the preparation method.

  Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples that follow.

  Within the meaning of the invention, a paste-shaped composition means that the consistency of this composition is intermediate between a solid phase and a liquid phase. The viscosity of this pasty composition is advantageously greater than 0.1 Pa.s, and preferably greater than 1 Pa.s, this at 25 C with a shear rate of 10 s -1.

  The term "keratin materials" more particularly means human keratin materials, such as skin, lips, and / or integuments such as nails and human keratin fibers, for example eyelashes, eyebrows and hair. Preferably, the keratin materials are hair. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable" medium defines a medium that is compatible with keratin materials and that, moreover, has an appearance, a touch, an odor and, if necessary, a pleasant taste for the user.

  The cosmetic compound used in the context of the invention is chosen more particularly from among the coloring agents, from the conditioning agents, from the protective agents.

  The coloring agents are chosen from the compounds usually used for coloring keratin materials.

  Thus, oxidation dye precursors, such as oxidation bases and couplers, can be used as direct dyes, of natural or synthetic origin. As regards the oxidation bases, these are conventionally chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts with an acid. The coupler is preferably selected from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts with an acid.

  The addition salts with an acid may be, for example, halides, such as chlorides, bromides; sulphates; alkyl sulphates in which the linear or branched alkyl part is C1-C6, such as methosulphate or ethosulphate ions; hydrogen carbonates; perchlorates; salts of carboxylic acids such as acetates, citrates, tartrates, alone or in combination.

  The direct dyes that may be used are ionic or nonionic species, and advantageously, are chosen from cationic and nonionic species. As non-limiting examples of direct dyes, mention may be made of nitrobenzene dyes, azo, azomethine, methine, tetraazapenthamethine, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzoquinone, phenotiazine indigo, xanthene, phenanthridine, phthalocyanine dyes, those derived from triarylmethane and natural dyes, alone or in mixtures.

  Among the azo direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic azo dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772, EP 714954, FR 2 822 696, FR 2 825 702 and FR 2 825 625. , FR 2 822 698, FR 2 822 693, FR 2 822 694, FR 2 829 926, FR 2 807 650, WO 02/078660, WO 02/100834, WO 02/100369, FR 2 844 269.

  Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin , curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular turmeric longa, cochineal carmine, poultices or extracts made from henna. Plant extracts such as insoluble redwood extracts of the genus Pterocarpus and of the genus Baphia, plant extracts of the genus Saxifraga, plant extracts of the genus Sorghum, extracts of Monascus and extracts of Plectanthus argentatus may also be mentioned. With regard to natural dyes, flavonoids and their esters, ethers, glycosides and polymers, non-flavonoid polyphenols and their esters, ethers, glycosides and polymers, carotenoids and 13-lains, chlorophylls and melanines are also suitable. The coloring agent may likewise be chosen from self-tanners, indole compounds (for example mono- and di-hydroxyindoles), dyeing plant extracts, dye precursors of the polyphenol type (especially ortho-diphenols), fluoranes or their alkali metal salts, and the activators of melanogenesis. Self-tanners are more particularly mono- or polycarbonyl compounds such as isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5-dion derivatives, dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives. With regard to natural dyes, flavonoids and their esters, ethers, glycosides and polymers, non-flavonoid polyphenols and their esters, ethers, glycosides and polymers, carotenoids and 13-lains, chlorophylls are suitable; carbohydrates; and melanins.

  The cosmetic compound can likewise be a conditioning agent. The latter may be chosen from linear or branched fatty alcohols having from 14 to 50 carbon atoms, linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, waxes, ceramide-type compounds, and silicone gums or resins. organomodified or not. More particularly, the waxes are chosen from beeswax, spermaceti, fluorinated and perfluorinated waxes, lanolin waxes, hydrogenated lanolin waxes and acetylated lanolin waxes; Candelilla, Ouricury, Carnauba, Japan waxes, cocoa butter, cork fiber or sugarcane waxes, rice bran wax, fir wax, cotton wax; microcrystalline waxes, paraffin wax, petrolatum, petrolatum, ozokerite, montan wax; hydrogenated oils having a melting temperature above 40 C; polyethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis. The ceramide-type compounds are chosen more particularly from 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol and 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1. 3-diol, 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N- [2-hydroxy-palmitoyl] -amino octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoyl aminooctadecane-1,3,4 triol, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane-1,3-diol and N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine.

  The non-organomodified silicone resins and gums are advantageously chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. As regards the silicone resins, they may be chosen from crosslinked siloxane compounds containing the units: R2SiO212, R3SiO1i2, RSiO312 and SiO412 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 16 carbon atoms, or a phenyl group. In addition, the organomodified silicones are preferably polyorganosiloxanes comprising polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups, thiol groups, hydroxyl groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, anionic groups of the carboxylic type, polyester groups and / or hydroxyacylamino groups. The conditioning agent may likewise be selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, cationic silicones and cationic proteins.

  The cationic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides; cationic polysaccharides; polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers; water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents; polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium, in the form of homo or copolymers; quaternary diammonium polymers; quaternary polyammonium polymers; quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole; polyamines; crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonium salts; polyalkyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes, cationic polyurethanes and chitin derivatives. The cationic polymers may also be chosen from quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, cationic cyclopolymers, vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole quaternary polymers, crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) salts. C4) ammonium and mixtures thereof. When the conditioning agent is chosen from cationic surfactants, it is possible to use the quaternary ammonium salts, the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, the quaternary ammonium salts, the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function. For example, there may be mentioned behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-82, behenylamidopropyl 2,3-dihydroxypropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and palmitylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride. The conditioning agent may likewise be chosen from cationic silicones such as polysiloxanes of the "amodimethicone" type (CTFA name); amino silicones corresponding to the formula R'aG3_a Si (OSiG2) n- (OSiGbR'2_b), m-O-SiG3_a-R'a; wherein G is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH, or C1-C8 alkyl group a denotes the number 0 or an integer of 1 to 3, b is 0 or 1, m and n are numbers such that that the sum (n + m) can vary in particular from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; R 'is a monovalent radical of formula -CgH2gL wherein q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from -NR "-CH2-CH2-N' (R") 2 groups; -N (R ") 2; -N (R") 3 A-; -NH (R ") 2 A-; -NH 2 (R") A-; -N (R ") -CH 2 -CH 2 -N R" H 2 A-, wherein R "may denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, and A-represents a halide ion.

  Also suitable are the amino silicones of the formula: ## STR2 ## wherein R 5 represents a radical of formula (I), wherein R 5 represents a radical monovalent hydrocarbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, Q-is an anion; r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 20; s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200;

  as well as the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula: ## STR2 ## ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## ## STR2 ##

  in which R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms; R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical; R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms; X- is an anion; r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200;

  and the amino silicones of formula:

  Embedded image in which R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4, which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, R 5 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical; C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5 and wherein x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0 , 01 and 1 meq / g.

  The conditioning agent may also be chosen from linear or branched C7-C30 carboxylic monoacid esters and linear or branched C8-C30 monoalcohols; linear or branched C7-C30i or aromatic C6-C30i unsaturated carboxylic acid esters and linear or branched C8-C30 monoalcohols; mono- and di-esters of linear or branched C 10 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and ethylene glycol; mono-, di- or triesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 10 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and of C 3 polyol; mono- or polyesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated (C7-C30) aromatic monocarboxylic acids (XI) 5 -3 and non-polyoxyalkylenated C 4 -C 50 polyols; the mono-, di- or triesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic hydroxyl or C4-C30i hydroxyl or non-hydroxy substituted or unsubstituted, and linear or branched C7-C50 mono- or polyols; mono- or polyesters of polyoxyalkylenated or polycerolated acids and / or alcohols, the non-oxyalkylenated or nonglycerolated portion of the acids being in C10-C30; hydrogenated oils or hydrogenated waxes; acid salts resulting from the esterification of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 7 -C 30 monocarboxylic acids and hydroycides; polymers of which at least one of the monomers is an ester; and the polymers resulting from the polycondensation of at least one polyacid and at least one polyol. The conditioning agent may also be a vitamin such as vitamin A, vitamin B3, vitamin B5, vitamin B9, vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin F, vitamin H, their derivatives, their precursors and their mixtures. Also suitable are cationic proteins, and more particularly chemically modified polypeptides carrying at the end of the chain, or grafted onto it, quaternary ammonium groups chosen from trialkylammonium groups, the alkyl group being C 1 -C 30, and dialkylarylammonium groups, the alkyl group being C1-C30 and the phenyl group being the phenyl or benzyl group.

  The cationic proteins may also be hydrolysates of collagen bearing triethylammonium groups, collagen hydrolysates carrying trimethylammonium chloride and trimethylstearylammonium groups, hydrolysates of animal proteins carrying trimethylbenzylammonium groups, protein hydrolysates bearing on the polypeptide chain of the groups quaternary ammonium having at least one alkyl radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms. The conditioning agent may also be a natural or synthetic amino acid, for which the acid function (s) are carboxylic, sulphonic, phosphonic or phosphoric.

  For example, the amino acid is selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, polylysine, polyarginine and polyaspartic acid.

  The conditioning agent may also be a oligopeptide, a peptide or a hydrolysed or non-modified or non-modified protein, such as in particular the following compounds: TYR-GLY-GLY-PHE-LEU, H-LYS-TH R-THR triacetate -DAP-SER-OH, HIS-SER-GLN-GLY-THR-PHE, palmitoyl-TYR-GLY-GLY-PHE-LEU and palmitoyl-GLY-GLN-PRO-ARG; vegetable proteins derived from plants in the native state or present in flours; animal proteins produced by species of the animal kingdom; protein hydrolysates obtained by chemical or enzymatic hydrolysis; and proteins or hydrolysates of chemically modified proteins. In addition, the proteins of soybeans, oats, peas, almonds and apricots are suitable; gliadin of wheat, of wheat; extensin; thaumatin; wheat germ, oat, soy, lupine, soy, whole wheat, rice, camellia, barley, rye, chestnut, kinoa, maize flour; whey proteins, casein, silk proteins, transglutin, lactalbumin, lactoglobulins, lactoferrins, egg white proteins including albumin, keratins including those derived from feathers, collagen and gelatin ; peptides or hydrolysates of soy protein, wheat, maize, potato, pea; ethyl or propyl esters of wheat peptides, palmitoyl stearoyl of alpha lactalbumin, and quaternized protein hydrolysates.

  The cosmetic compound may also be a protective agent, advantageously chosen from sunscreens, antioxidants, antipollution agents and anti-radical agents. The sunscreens are more particularly chosen from anthranilates, cinnamic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, 13,13-diphenylacrylate derivatives, Benzotriazole derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, imidazolines, bisbenzoazolyl derivatives, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, methylene bis (hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives, polymers filters and silicones filter, dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene, 4,4-diarylbutadienes, and mixtures thereof. The anti-pollution agents correspond in particular to vitamin C and its derivatives, polyphenols and non-dyes, epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing them, extracts of olive leaf, tea, anthocyanins, extracts of rosemary , phenol acids, stilbenes, sulfur amino acid derivatives, N-acetylcysteine, chelating agents, carotenoids and non-coloring indole derivatives. The anti-radical agents or antioxidants are chosen in particular from vitamin E and its derivatives, flavonoids, bioflavonoids, coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone, catalase, superoxide dismutase, lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductases, glutathione benzylidene camphor, benzylcyclanones, substituted naphthalenones, pidolates; phytantriol, gamma-oryzanol, guanosine, lignans, melatonin, reductones and their derivatives including erythorbic acid, ascorbic acid and ascorbyl palmitate, sodium sulphite. elsewhere as a solid or paste. Advantageously, it is in the form of a divided solid, more particularly a powder.

  The cosmetic compound may optionally be used with at least one adjuvant. The adjuvant (s) may be in solid or pasty form, and preferably in powder form. The adjuvants may be chosen from clays, salts, anionic, nonionic, cationic or zwitterionic surfactants, natural or synthetic thickeners, optionally modified starch, glass beads, silica, nylon, alumina , titanium dioxide, zeolites, poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, mono- or disaccharides such as glucose, sucrose, sorbitol or fructose, oxide zinc, zirconium, silicates, talc, calcium borosilicates, polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), cellulose and its derivatives, superabsorbent compounds, magnesium or calcium carbonates, polyacrylamide, porous hydroxyapatite, sawdust, fucus powder, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone, calcium alginate, activated carbon, polyvinylidene / acrylonitrile particles, especially those as Expancel by the company AKZO NOBEL under the particular references Expancel WE or DE Expancels, and mixtures thereof. When one or more adjuvants are present, their content represents 1 to 99.5% by weight, preferably 20 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of cosmetic compound and adjuvant (s).

  According to another characteristic of the invention, during the percolation process, the cosmetic compound is placed in the presence of at least one anionic hydrotrope of formula (I) R3 ~ - n R1 R e In which: • X represents the CH group or a nitrogen atom, • n is an integer ranging from 0 to 12, • R, represents the COOM or SO3M group, • R2 represents a hydroxyl radical, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, • R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, • R2 and R3 may together form a 5- or 6-membered unsaturated ring optionally substituted with a COOM group, • M represents a hydrogen atom or one or more inorganic cations ensuring the electroneutrality of the compound of formula (I). More particularly, the mineral cation or mixture of mineral cations is chosen from alkali and alkaline earth metals, alone or in combination. For example, mention may be made of sodium, magnesium, calcium, alone or as a mixture.

  By way of examples of preferred anionic hydrotropes, the following compounds may be mentioned without intention of being limited thereto: Phenylacetic acid 000H S03H 4-ethylbenzenesulfonic acid S 3H 4-hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid oH 4-phenylbutyric acid aooH Picolinic acid N. Sodium xylene sulfonate SO3Na 1-naphthalene sulphonic acid SO3H Salt 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid COOH CCCH5 In the above formulas, the compounds are indicated in acid form or as sodium salts by way of indication only.

  Usually, the content of anionic hydrotrope represents between 5 and 500% by weight relative to the weight of cosmetic compound ()).

  According to a first variant of the invention, the anionic hydrotrope is present at least in part in the composition comprising the cosmetic compound. According to a second variant of the invention, the anionic hydrotrope is present at least partly in the fluid under pressure. Preferably, the anionic hydrotrope is present in the composition comprising the cosmetic compound.

  As indicated above, the process for preparing a cosmetic treatment formulation of keratin materials comprises a step of percolating fluid, at a temperature preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C., more preferably ranging from 30 ° to 150 ° C., and even more preferably from 40 to 120 ° C., under a pressure of at least 3 bars (3.105 Pa) through at least one composition comprising at least one cosmetic compound, in solid or pasty form, in the presence of at least one anionic hydrotrope . Percolation is a movement of fluid through a porous medium allowing the passage of fluid under the action or effect of pressure.

  The fluid may consist of steam optionally with liquid water, or one or more cosmetically acceptable liquid and / or gaseous solvents, or a mixture of water vapor, possibly accompanied by liquid water, and one or more cosmetically acceptable liquid and / or gas solvents. Preferably, the fluid comprises at least water vapor may be accompanied by liquid water, and even more preferably it is water vapor may be accompanied by liquid water.

  As organic solvent, there may be mentioned, for example, C1-C4 lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

  The method of the present invention can be implemented from a conventional device for generating a fluid under pressure, at a temperature preferably greater than or equal to 30 C, more preferably ranging from 30 to 150 C, and even more preferably, from 40 to 120 ° C. Such a device comprises a pressure-resistant chamber equipped with a thermal block, as well as a circuit for conveying the fluid to the composition comprising the cosmetic compound (s). According to another embodiment, the device further comprises a liquid reservoir (s) and a pump for conveying the liquid or liquids to the chamber. The liquid contained in the reservoir is either water, or at least one anionic hydrotrope, or a cosmetically acceptable solvent or a mixture of several cosmetically acceptable solvents, or a mixture of water and / or one or more hydrotropes anionic and / or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents. Preferably, the liquid comprises at least water, and even more preferably it is water. A particularly useful device for carrying out the process of the present invention is a coffee machine of the "espresso" type. Such machines are well known in the art. For example, these machines are described in patents AT 168405, US 2688911, DE 32433870 and IT 1265636. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the percolation step is carried out with a fluid at a higher temperature or equal to 30 C, more preferably ranging from 30 to 150 C, and even more preferably from 40 to 120 C, under a pressure of at least 4 bar (4.105 Pa), preferably greater than or equal to 10 bar (106 Pa) and most preferably from 10 to 30 bar (106 to 3.106 Pa).

  The composition comprising the cosmetic compound can be used directly in the device generating the fluid under pressure in a container intended for this purpose. It may also be packaged in a particular packaging device comprising a closed housing delimited by at least one wall at least partially permeable to the fluid under a pressure of at least 3 bar. Such devices are, for example, described in patent applications WO 00/56629, EP 512470, US 5897899 or WO 99/03573. These conditioning devices are generally airtight, moisture and / or light.

  According to a particular embodiment, the housing is delimited by two sealed sheets. According to another embodiment, the housing is delimited by a tray closed by a lid. These devices can be made from woven or non-woven materials, plastic or plant material, for example cellulose, metal such as aluminum or composite. Such devices are for example described in patent applications WO 00/56629, EP 512470 or WO 99/03573.

  The cosmetic treatment formulation of the keratin materials obtained according to the process of the invention contains, in addition to the cosmetic compound (s), the anionic hydrotrope (s), the component (s). ) fluid (water and / or cosmetically acceptable solvent (s) and / or anionic hydrotrope (s)), all or part of the adjuvant (s) present in the composition in solid or pasty form.

  The invention also relates to the cosmetic treatment formulation of keratin materials, obtainable by the process according to the invention, the particularly preferred formulation comprising no preservative agent.

  From the preparation process of the invention, there is obtained a cosmetic treatment formulation of keratinous substances which can be applied directly to the keratin materials, or which can be mixed with a cosmetically acceptable medium, or at least one conventionally used additive. in cosmetics can be added by an operator. It is also possible to mix at least two formulations obtained by the process of the invention. The cosmetic treatment formulation of the keratin materials optionally resulting from the mixture (s) and / or addition (s) indicated above, will be hereinafter referred to as the final cosmetic treatment formulation or final formulation.

  A particular embodiment of the invention consists in applying the formulation obtained via a device that does not require human intervention and possibly equipped with a cooling means.

  The amount of cosmetic compound (s) present in the final cosmetic treatment formulation is in general between 0.001% and 50% by weight, preferably between 0.005% and 30% by weight, and still more preferably between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the final cosmetic treatment formulation.

  When the cosmetic treatment formulation obtained by the process of the present invention is mixed with a cosmetically acceptable medium, such a medium is generally constituted by water or by a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent to solubilize compounds that are not sufficiently soluble in water. As an organic solvent, there may be mentioned, for example, C1-C4 lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The solvents are preferably present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 40% by weight, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the final cosmetic treatment formulation.

  At least one additive conventionally used in cosmetics may also be added in the cosmetic treatment formulations obtained according to the method of the present invention. By way of examples of such additives, mention may be made of anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof; anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; inorganic or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; buffers; dispersants; film-forming agents; preservatives; opacifying agents. The above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the final formulation. Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic treatment formulation according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the or the proposed additions. The pH of the final cosmetic treatment formulation is generally between 2 and 12, and preferably between 5 and 11. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used in cosmetics or else at the same time. using conventional buffer systems. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids. Among the alkalinizing agents, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and compounds of the following formula: embedded image in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical; Ra, Rb, R, and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical. When the composition comprises, as a cosmetic compound, at least one coloring agent, and more particularly an oxidation dye precursor, the color may be revealed using an oxidizing agent.

  It may also be advantageous to use a treatment formulation obtained from a composition comprising, as a cosmetic compound, at least one direct dye, in the presence of an oxidizing agent. In this case, we speak of direct dye with lightening effect.

  In the case where an oxidizing agent is desired, the cosmetic treatment formulation obtained according to the process of the invention is mixed, preferably at the time of use, with an oxidizing composition comprising, in a medium suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidizing agent; this oxidizing agent being present in an amount sufficient to develop a coloration. The final formulation thus obtained is then applied to the keratin materials, more particularly the keratinous fibers. After a residence time of about 3 to 50 minutes, preferably about 5 to 30 minutes, the keratinous fibers are rinsed, washed with shampoo, rinsed again and then dried or allowed to dry. The oxidizing agents conventionally used for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers are, for example, hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids and oxidase enzymes. among which there may be mentioned peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccases. Hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred.

  The oxidizing composition may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair and as defined above. The color can be revealed at acidic, neutral or alkaline pH.

  The final cosmetic treatment formulation may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, gels or in any other form suitable for treating keratin materials, and in particular the skin or the hair, and more particularly hair. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, comprising the preparation of a cosmetic treatment formulation according to the process as defined above, and its application to keratin materials, for example via an operator or through a device that does not require human intervention. The duration of application can vary between 15 seconds and 1 hour.

  Before application, the cosmetic treatment formulation obtained according to the process of the invention may be mixed with a cosmetically acceptable medium and / or with one or more additives conventionally used in cosmetics as described above. Another embodiment consists in preparing at least two cosmetic treatment formulations according to the method of the invention, in mixing them, and optionally adding a cosmetically acceptable medium and / or one or more additives conventionally used in cosmetics as described herein. above, then to apply the final formulation obtained on the keratin materials. The examples below illustrate the present invention.

Example 1

  A mixture of Curcuma Longa (5g) and sodium xylene sulphonate (5g), introduced into a capsule, is driven by water vapor under pressure. The extract obtained is colored in golden yellow.

  An application of this extract on locks of hair 90% natural white and 90% white permed for 30 minutes at 27 C can color hair in a very aesthetic and not very selective yellow.

  Example 2 A mixture of Curcuma Longa (4g) and picolinic acid (4g), introduced into a capsule, is entrained by pressurized water vapor. The extract obtained is colored in golden yellow. An application of this extract on a strand of hair discolored for 30 minutes at 27 C can color the hair in a very powerful yellow.

Example 3

  A mixture of ground Sorghum sheath (2g) and sodium xylene sulphonate (2g), introduced into a capsule, is driven by pressurized water vapor. The extract obtained is colored mahogany red. An application of this extract on a strand of discolored hair for 30 minutes at 27 C can color the hair in a very aesthetic red.

Claims (24)

  1. Process for the preparation of a cosmetic treatment formulation for keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises a step of percolating fluid under a pressure of at least 3 bars through a composition comprising at least one cosmetic compound in solid or pasty form, in the presence of at least one anionic hydrotrope of formula (I) below: R 3 R, RZ e In which: X represents the CH group or a nitrogen atom, n is an integer varying from 0 at 12, R, represents the COOM or SO3M group, R2 represents a hydroxyl radical, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, R2 and R3 may together form a 5- or 6-membered unsaturated ring optionally substituted with a COOM • M group represents a hydrogen atom or one or more inorganic cations ensuring the electroneutrality of the compound of formula (I).   2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the mineral cation or mineral cation mixture is selected from alkali and alkaline earth metals, alone or in combination.   3. Process according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the anionic hydrotrope is selected from phenylacetic acid, 4-ethylbenzenesulfonic, 4-hydroxybenzenesulfonic, 4-phenylbutyric, picolinic, 1-naphthalene sulfonic acid. 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, or salts thereof, sodium xylenesulphonate.   4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic hydrotrope content represents from 5 to 500% by weight relative to the weight of cosmetic compound.   5. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the anionic hydrotrope is present at least in part in the composition.   6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the anionic hydrotrope is present at least partly in the fluid under pressure.   7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pressurized fluid is constituted by steam optionally accompanied by liquid water, or by one or more cosmetically acceptable liquid and / or gaseous solvents, or alternatively by a mixture of water vapor, possibly accompanied by liquid water, and one or more cosmetically acceptable liquid and / or gas solvents.   8. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fluid comprises at least water vapor.   9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic compound is chosen from the coloring agents. 20   10. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the coloring agent is chosen from oxidation bases, couplers or direct dyes.   11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic compound is chosen from conditioning agents.   12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic compound is chosen from protective agents.   13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a divided solid.   14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one adjuvant.   15. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the adjuvant is chosen from clays, salts, anionic, nonionic, cationic or zwitterionic surfactants, natural or synthetic thickeners, optionally modified starch, glass beads, silica, nylon, alumina, titanium dioxide, zeolites, poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, mono- or disaccharides, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates, talc, calcium borosilicates, polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), cellulose and its derivatives, superabsorbent compounds, magnesium or calcium carbonates, polyacrylamide, porous hydroxyapatite, sawdust, fucus powder, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone, calcium alginate, activated carbon, and polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile particles.   16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of adjuvant represents 1 to 99.5% by weight, preferably 20 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of cosmetic compound and adjuvant.   17. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the percolation step is carried out with a fluid under pressure of at least 10 bar.   18. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, characterized in that a cosmetic treatment formulation is prepared according to the method defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 17, and that this formulation is applied to keratin materials. .   19. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the treatment formulation is applied to the keratin materials via a device that does not require human intervention.   20. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials according to claim 19, characterized in that before application, the cosmetic treatment formulation prepared according to the method according to any one of claims 1 to 16, is mixed with a medium cosmetically. acceptable and / or one or more additives used in cosmetics.   21. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that at least two cosmetic treatment formulations are prepared according to the method defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 17, they are mixed and the mixture is applied to the keratin materials.   22. A device for packaging a composition, comprising a closed housing delimited by at least one wall at least partially permeable to water vapor under pressure of at least 3 bar, said composition containing at least one cosmetic compound in the form of solid or pasty, and at least one anionic hydrotrope of formula (I) below R3 n Re In which: X represents the group CH or a nitrogen atom, • n is an integer ranging from 0 to 12, • RI represents the group COOM or SO3M, • R2 represents a hydroxyl radical, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical ,. R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, • R2 and R3 may together form a 5- or 6-membered unsaturated ring optionally substituted with a COOM group; • M represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrogen atom; or more inorganic cations ensuring the electroneutrality of the compound of formula (I).   23. Device according to claim 22, characterized in that the housing is delimited by two sealed sheets.   24. Device according to one of claims 22, characterized in that the housing is defined by a tray closed by a cover.