FR2854772A1 - Method for making shoe comprises cutting shoe front from medium and perforating over its perimeter, preparing and perforating upper and hand sewing to front part, ankle part shaping on last, fitting sides and gluing assembly - Google Patents

Abstract

The method of making the shoe comprises cutting out the shoe front (2) in an appropriate medium and the perforation (3) of the front part over its perimeter. Preparing (5) and perforating (4) the upper (1a) over its perimeter. The front part and the upper are then hand sewn edge to edge. The ankle part (1) is shaped on a heating last and the first half of the rear assembly (8) is fixed under the last. The sides are then mounted and fitted and the heel part is carded to the last edge. Finally the heel part - sole assembly are glued together. An independent claim is included for a shoe.

Description

PROCESS FOR PRODUCING A SHOE OR ARTICLE

  TUBULAR TYPE FOOTWEAR AND ARTICLES THUS OBTAINED

  The present invention relates to the manufacture of shoes or footwear of tubular type, intended for various uses, for example trotters, sport, city and aims to improve the conventional techniques for producing these articles while improving comfort and footwear.

  Usually, the rod of these articles is presented with the form on a mounting machine "the ends", on which the rod is stretched and pressed on a first mounting in the form, and glued on this first.

  This conventional way of operating has the major drawback of stiffening the shoe, in particular at the location of the toes, on the one hand by the firmness of the first fitting and, on the other hand, by the extra thickness of the mounting socket on its entire periphery, where the edge of the rod is folded over the first mounting.

  Furthermore, the tension exerted by the machine on the upper on the form very significantly reduces the comfort of the foot.

  The present invention overcomes these drawbacks while simplifying the manufacturing process by avoiding the need for machine assembly.

  To this end, the subject of the invention is a process for producing a shoe or footwear of the tubular type, characterized by the following steps: 1) cutting from a suitable support part of a first called forefoot; 2) pre-perforation of the said forefoot first on its periphery 3) preparation and pre-perforation of the vamp on its periphery; 4) hand sewing edge to edge of the first forefoot and the upper; 5) pre-stalking of the rod on a heating form 6) placing the buttress; 7) shaping of the rod on the form and fixing under the latter of the rear mounting half-first completing the so-called front leg part; 8) mounting of the sides and the casing 9) carding of the rod to the edge of the form 10) gluing of the rod-sole assembly then display and press and, finally, deformation.

  After deformation, the shoe or footwear naturally undergoes various finishing and conditioning operations depending on the type of article, such as fitting of comfort foams and plantar support, fitting of first socks, etc.

  We will now describe in more detail the method of the invention with reference to the accompanying drawing in which - Figure 1 is a bottom view of an assembly comprising a first consisting of a front half-first and a half -first back and a rod linked by sewing to the front half-first; - Figure 2 is a cross section for example of an article of footwear according to the invention on form, at the level of the vamp, and - Figure 3 is a section of a support suitable for the realization of a first for an article of footwear according to the invention.

  In Figure 1, there is shown at 1 a rod of tubular type whose upper 1 a is linked by sewing to a half-first 2 known as a forefoot, according to the invention, the upper and the half-first 2 being 30 arranged edge to edge.

  The method according to the invention consists in cutting and pre-perforating the forefoot half-first 2 in a suitable material, preferably a complex as shown in FIG. 3 and consisting of a layer 2a of a nonwoven material. and a woven frame, for example a cane 2b.

  Perforations 3 are made at the periphery of the semi-premiere 2.

  The half-first 2 is then linked edge to edge to the upper la, 5 previously subjected to a pre-perforation 4 similar to that of the first half 2, as well as to a preparation in the perimeter area 5 (see also figure 2) of the upper.

  The link between the half-first 2 is made by hand sewing, for example with moccasin thread 6.

  Then, a pre-bending is carried out on a heating form, then a shaping of the rod 1 on the form (7, FIG. 2) in which the rear first half 8 is stapled (FIG. 1).

  After mounting the sidewalls and fitting, carding is carried out from the rod 1 to the edge, without touching the sewing thread 6. This carding is carried out on a peripheral zone 9 of the rod 1 adjoining the preparation zone and extending over the entire inner periphery of the rod 1.

  The purpose of carding (9) and preparation (5) is to remove the skin of the leather from the upper to ensure good bonding of the sole 10 which is then glued together with the upper 1 and attached to shape 7.

  After displaying the sole 10, a pressing is carried out ensuring the bonding of said sole to the front 2 and rear 8 half-premieres, as well as to the peripheral zones 5 and 9 of the rod 1.

  The shoe or footwear is then taken out of shape and subjected to the conventional operations of finishing and conditioning according to the type of article, such as fitting of comfort foams and plantar support, fitting of interior first cleanliness, finishing, control, etc ...

  The method of the invention gives a lot of flexibility to the footwear item at the vamp 1a due to the mode of attachment by edge-to-edge stitching of the vamp and the forefoot half-premiere 2.

  In addition to the better comfort thus obtained, the process is simpler and quicker to implement than the conventional process, because there is no machine assembly for the forefoot.

  The forefoot half-premiere 2 consisting of a complex integrating a woven layer or the like 2b ensures good dimensional stability.

  The subject of the invention is also any shoe or footwear produced according to the method described above, such products being able to be articles with seams such as moccasins or other products, including female shoes or footwear with heel.

Claims (1)

CLAIMS CLAIMS 0 NS 1. Method for producing a shoe or footwear of tubular type, characterized by the following steps: 1) cutting from a suitable support of a first part called forefoot (2 ); 2) pre-perforation (3) of said first forefoot (2) on its periphery 3) preparation (5) and pre-perforation (4) of the vamp (la) on its periphery; 4) hand seam edge to edge (6) of the first forefoot (2) and the vamp (la); 5) pre-planing of the rod (1) on a heating form 6) placing the buttress; 7) shaping of the rod (1) on the form (7) and fixing under the latter of the rear mounting half-first (8) in addition to the so-called forefoot part (2); 8) mounting of the sides and of the casing 9) carding (9) of the rod (1) up to the square edge;  10) gluing of the rod (1) - sole (10) assembly, then display and press and, finally, deformation.   2. Method according to claim 1 characterized in that the support 20 of said forefoot first part (2) consists of a complex comprising a layer of nonwoven material (2a) and a layer of fabric or analogous (2b).   3. Shoe or footwear comprising a tubular type upper, a first consisting of a forefoot half-first (2) 25 mounted and fixed by mail stitching (6) edge to edge on the vamp (the ) and a rear half-first (3) and a sole (10) attached by bonding to the first (2, 3) and the periphery (5, 9) of the rod (1).   4. Shoe or footwear according to claim 3, characterized in that the forefoot half-first (2) is formed of a complex consisting of a nonwoven (2a) and a fabric or the like , in particular a cane (2b).