FR2836041A1 - Use in cosmetics of aqueous dispersions of core-shell polymers with a core derived from reactive silyl compounds, especially in hair dressing formulations - Google Patents

Abstract

The use in cosmetics of aqueous dispersions (I) of core/shell-type particles with a core containing compounds (A) with reactive silyl groups and a shell based on acrylic polymer(s) (B). Independent claims are also included for (1) cosmetic compositions (II) containing 1-99 wt% (I) (in which the shell polymers are based on water-insoluble acrylic polymers) and one or more synthetic or natural water-soluble polymers (2) a method (M1) for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibres (especially hair) by applying (I) or (II) to dry or wet hair and then drying in air at room temperature or with a hair dryer (3) a method (M2) for the pre- or post-treatment of human keratin fibres by carrying out M1 before or after a dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving or uncurling treatment (4) a method (M3) of hair-dressing, comprising application of (I) or (II) to dry or wet hair, shaping the hair and drying as in M1.

Description

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Cosmetic use of stable aqueous dispersions of core / shell particles containing reactive silyl compounds
The present invention relates to the use, in the field of cosmetics and in particular for the treatment and styling of hair, of a stable aqueous dispersion of core / shell type particles containing compounds with reactive silyl functions, as well as a process treatment and a hair styling method using such an aqueous dispersion.

 There are many styling products that allow you to shape the hair and keep it that way for a while.

However, the styling effect of these products does not usually last more than a day because the products are removed by washing or brushing the hair at the end of the day.

 It has recently been proposed in the patent application WO 98/54255 (and in the corresponding US Pat. No. 6,326,011) the formation, on fibrous substrates and in particular on the hair, of silicone residual films resistant to several shampoos. The remanence of the deposits is due to an in situ crosslinking of polymers bearing reactive alkoxysilane functions in an aqueous medium. The fact that the crosslinking of the polymers is triggered by the presence of water, however, requires the storage of crosslinkable compositions in an anhydrous environment, protected from moisture in the air, in order to avoid premature crosslinking before deposit . Furthermore, the hair treatment method with these compositions is relatively complex because it requires a step of applying water before or after the step of applying the crosslinkable anhydrous product.

 The Applicant has discovered that it is possible to overcome both the disadvantages resulting from the use of non-residual styling products, and those resulting from the use of hair styling products, crosslinkable by hydrolysis, disclosed in WO 98/54255, using for the treatment and styling of hair aqueous dispersions of particles having a

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 core / shell structure and containing, in their nucleus, compounds with reactive silyl functions.

 Indeed, such aqueous dispersions are perfectly stable over time, that is to say they do not sediment or crosslink during storage, but are capable, after deposition and drying, to crosslink in situ and thus form reticulated reticent coatings, that is to say coatings not eliminating brushing or shampooing.

 The present invention therefore relates to the use of an aqueous dispersion of core / shell type particles formed of an envelope based on at least one acrylic polymer, and a core, or core, containing compounds with reactive silyl functions, in cosmetics, in particular for the treatment and styling of human keratin fibers.

 The present invention furthermore relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of human keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, comprising the application of such an aqueous dispersion to dry or wet hair, and the drying of the hair to the hair. free air at ambient temperature or by means of a drying device such as a hair dryer, and a hair styling process further comprising, after application of the dispersion and before drying, the shaping of the hair treaties.

 It also relates to a process for pre-treatment or post-treatment of human keratin fibers by applying the above treatment method before or after a staining or discoloration treatment or permanent or straightening.

 The Applicant surprisingly found that the coatings thus formed had a granular structure at the micrometric scale which

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 translated by a surface roughness and an anti-slip effect. In application tests, it has been found that the anti-slip effect facilitates the introduction or replacement of hair, including fine hair. Hair has more body and is easier to discipline.

 The roughness of the deposits formed, however, does not affect the cosmetic qualities of the treated hair which does not have a dull appearance and maintain a relatively smooth feel.

 As indicated above, the deposits formed are persistent and the styling effect is preserved during at least one shampoo. Moreover, the treatment or styling method using these dispersions is simpler than that disclosed in WO 98/54255 (and US Pat. No. 6,326,011), since it does not necessarily imply moistening the hair before application of the composition of the composition. treatment or styling or the addition of water in the anhydrous composition.

dans laquelle RI représente un résidu polymérique ou un groupe R3,

R2 représente un groupe alcoxy en CI-8, R3 représente un groupe alkyle en Cl-8, linéaire, ramifié ou cyclique,
X représente un atome d'hydrogène ou un cation d'une base utilisée pour la neutralisation des groupes silanol, m représente un nombre entier allant de 0 à 3, q vaut 0 ou 1, n et p représentent chacun un nombre entier allant de 0 à 4, la somme de n + p vaut 1, 2, 3 ou 4, et la somme dem+n+p+q vaut 4. The compounds having reactive silyl functions present in the core of the core / shell type particles are preferably chosen from those of formula (1)

in which RI represents a polymeric residue or an R3 group,

R2 represents a C1-C8 alkoxy group, R3 represents a linear, branched or cyclic C1-C8 alkyl group;
X represents a hydrogen atom or a cation of a base used for the neutralization of silanol groups, m represents an integer ranging from 0 to 3, q is 0 or 1, n and p each represent an integer ranging from 0 at 4, the sum of n + p is 1, 2, 3 or 4, and the sum of n + n + p + q is 4.

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 Preferably R2 is methoxy or ethoxy and R3 is methyl or ethyl. When R 1 represents a polymeric residue, it is preferably of acrylic type carrying anionic charges.

 For the neutralization of silanol functions, any cosmetically acceptable base, organic or inorganic, may be used, and ammonia and alkali metal hydroxides, in particular sodium or potassium hydroxide, are particularly preferred. X, when it is a cation, is therefore preferably an alkali metal atom or ion 4.

 The acrylic polymers of the envelope are preferably anionic acrylic polymers, that is to say acrylic polymers having a number of units derived from acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid neutralized with a base. They are essentially insoluble in water.

 The rough structure of the deposits which gives them a styling power is attributed to the existence, in the aqueous dispersions used in the present invention, of perfectly distinct particles, separated from each other and which at least partially retain their shape in the cosmetic deposit got.

 In order to obtain deposits having sufficient styling effect, but which have satisfactory cosmetic properties (smooth touch, gloss), the average size of the organic copolymer particles in aqueous dispersion (measured by light scattering) is preferably between 10 nm and 1000 nm and in particular between 50 nm and 500 nm.

 An aqueous dispersion of particles is commercially available under the name SANMOLO EW 102 (Sanyo Chemical).

 The aqueous dispersions used in accordance with the present invention in the cosmetic field and in particular in the field of

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 capping and hair care, preferably have a content of core / shell particles containing compounds with silyl functions, between 1 and 80% by weight, in particular between 1 and 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the dispersion.

 The present invention further relates to cosmetic compositions containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, from 1 to 99% by weight, preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, of a stable aqueous dispersion of core / shell type particles containing reactive silyl functional compounds and one or more synthetic or naturally occurring water-soluble polymers.

 For reasons of stability of the cosmetic compositions, their pH is preferably greater than or equal to 5, in particular between 5 and 11, and more preferably between 7 and 11.

 The synthetic or naturally occurring hydrosoluble polymers used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are chosen, for example, from polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyacrylic acid, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylamide and polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid. ) or copolymers thereof, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, nonionic guar gums, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as scleroglucan and xanthan gums, gums derived from plant exudates such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum or gum tragacanth, gums extracted from algae such as carrageenans or agar, gums derived from plant extracts such as locust bean gum or pectins extracted from fruit pulps, alginates, starches and hydroxyalkylcelluloses and carboxyalkylcelluloses.

 These polymers may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

 They are present in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention preferably in a proportion of 0.01 to 30% by weight.

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 The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also contain one or more cosmetic or formulation additives usually used in the cosmetics field, and in particular in the field of styling and hair care. Examples of such additives include UV filters, perfumes, preservatives, pigments and dyes, anti-foam agents, vitamins, conditioning agents such as soluble, dispersed or microdispersed silicones, agents for adjusting and fixing pH, organic or inorganic particles, whether synthetic or not, or anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants.

 Of course, those skilled in the art will choose these additives by ensuring that their presence in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention does not impair the intrinsic advantageous properties of these compositions, in particular in the dispersed state of the particles, the stability at storage of the compositions and the reactivity of the silyl functions during drying of the cosmetic deposit.

 The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention may be in any form compatible with the existence of an aqueous dispersion of particles of an organic polymer. By way of example, mention may be made of lotions, packaged in pump or aerosol bottles, or thickened or even gelled suspensions.

 The following examples illustrate the present invention.

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Example 1
Preparation of a styling composition and storage stability
A styling composition A is prepared by mixing the following ingredients:

<Tb>
<tb> SANMOLEW102a) <SEP> 10%
<tb> water <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<tb> base <SEP> (NH40H) <SEP> q. <SEP> s. <SEP> p. <SEP> pH <SEP> 8.5
<Tb>
a) aqueous dispersion according to the invention sold by the company Sanyo Chemical.

In order to evaluate the storage stability of this composition, the average particle size is measured using a light scattering apparatus (Coulter N4S model, marketed by Coultronics).

<Tb>
<tb>'when<SEP> of <SEP> the <SEP> preparation <SEP> of <SEP> the <SEP> composition <SEP> A <SEP>: <SEP> 156 <SEP> nm
<tb>'after<SEP> 1 <SEP> months <SEP> of <SEP> conservation <SEP> at <SEP> temperature <SEP> ambient <SEP>: <SEP> 158 <SEP> nm
<tb>'after<SEP> 2 <SEP> months <SEP> of <SEP> conservation <SEP> to <SEP> a <SEP> temperature <SEP> of <SEP> 45 <SEP> C <SEP>: <SEP> 149 <SEP> nm
<Tb>

The results obtained show that there is no phenomenon of agglomeration or condensation of particles that would result in an increase in the average particle size measured. The composition is therefore perfectly stable.

On dépose dans une boîte de Pétri 25 mg/cm2 de la dispersion SANMOLO EW 102 et on laisse sécher à l'air libre. La surface du film séché est analysée par microscopie à force atomique (AFM), en mode friction, avec une force de frottement appliquée de 10 nN. Le cantilever effectue 256 balayages de la surface à raison de 1 balayage par seconde. Example 2
Formation of a deposit by drying in the open air

25 mg / cm 2 of the dispersion SANMOLO EW 102 is placed in a Petri dish and allowed to air dry. The surface of the dried film is analyzed by atomic force microscopy (AFM), in friction mode, with an applied friction force of 10 nN. The cantilever performs 256 sweeps of the surface at 1 sweep per second.

 We note that the deposit has a rough structure on which we can see small bumps distributed uniformly over the entire surface. The film is slightly opalescent.

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Example 3
Evaluation of styling effect and cosmetic properties
The composition A of Example 1 is applied, by a group of 20 people, with a pump bottle on the washed hair, still wet. After a lapse of about five minutes, people do their hair as usual.

The table below shows the number of people among the 20 surveyed, testifying to an impression of improved ease of styling and cosmetic properties such as the volume or texture of the hairstyle, the day of the application after 1 shampoo.

<Tb>
<tb> discipline <SEP> volume <SEP> texture <SEP> maintain
<tb> of <SEP><SEP> of <SEP><SEP> of <SEP><SEP> of <SEP>
<tb> hairstyle <SEP> hairstyle <SEP> hairstyle <SEP> hairstyle
<tb> day <SEP> of <SEP> 14 <SEP> 15 <SEP> 14 <SEP> 15
<tb> the application
<tb> after <SEP> 1 <SEP> 17 <SEP> 13 <SEP> 13 <SEP> 16
<tb> shampoo
<Tb>

The composition A according to the invention therefore allows easier styling with hair retention and an improvement in discipline and volume that are clearly appreciated by those who participated in the trial.

Example 4
Styling composition
A styling composition B, identical to the styling composition A of Example 1, is prepared, except that it additionally contains 0.08% by weight of a water-soluble polymer, namely a hydroxypropylated guar gum. sold under the name Jaguar HP 105 by Rhodia Chimie.

 In a test similar to that described in Example 3, carried out with a group of 10 people, this composition gives effects equivalent to those

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 obtained with the composition A. The styling effect and the cosmetic properties are even a little better. The hair is notably smoother and softer.

Example 5
Styling composition
A styling composition identical to that of Composition A according to Example 1 is prepared, except that it additionally contains 0.4% by weight of polyvinyl alcohol (Airvole 540, marketed by Air Products). Chemical Inc.).

 In a test similar to that described in Example 3, carried out with a group of 10 people, this composition gives effects equivalent to those obtained with the composition A. The styling effect and the cosmetic properties are even slightly better. The hair is notably smoother and softer. This last effect is particularly visible for damaged hair.

Example 6
Influence of the pH of the composition
In a test similar to that described in Example 3, the composition A (pH 8.5) was compared to a composition D identical except that it had a pH of 10.5 (adjusted by the addition of NH 4 OH).

 It is found that the styling effect and volume of the hairstyle provided by the composition D are greater than those obtained with the composition A, especially on damaged hair, but that the composition A brings more discipline and a more pleasant touch.

 This example shows that it is possible to modulate the properties of the hair styling compositions of the present invention by a simple change in pH.

Claims (14)

1. Use of an aqueous dispersion of core / shell type particles formed of an envelope based on at least one acrylic polymer, and a core containing reactive silyl functional compounds, in cosmetics.  2. Use according to claim 1 for the treatment and styling of human keratin fibers.  3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the compounds with reactive silyl functions are chosen from those of formula (1)

 in which

 R 1 represents a polymeric residue or a group R 3, R 2 represents a C 1-8 alkoxy group, R 3 represents a C 1-8 alkyl group, linear, branched or cyclic, X represents a hydrogen atom or a cation of a base used for the neutralization of the silanol groups, preferably an alkali metal atom or the NH 4 + ion, m represents an integer ranging from 0 to 3, q is 0 or 1, n and p each represent an integer ranging from 0 to 4, the sum of n + p is 1,2, 3 or 4, and the sum of n + n + p + q is 4.  4. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that R3 represents a methyl or ethyl group.  5. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that R2 represents a methoxy or ethoxy group.  6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the acrylic polymers are polymers <Desc / Clms Page number 11>  substantially water-insoluble anionic compounds having a number of derived units of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid neutralized with a base.  7. Use according to any one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that R 1 denotes an anionic acrylic polymer residue.  8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the average size of the core / shell type particles, is between 10 nm and 1000 nm, preferably between 50 nm and 500 nm.  9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of core / shell type particles is between 1% and 80% by weight, preferably between 1% and 50% by weight, based on total weight of the dispersion.  Cosmetic composition containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, from 1 to 99% by weight of an aqueous dispersion of core / shell-like particles formed from an envelope based on water-insoluble acrylic polymers, and a core containing reactive silyl functional compounds and one or more synthetic or naturally occurring water-soluble polymers.  11. Cosmetic composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the concentration of the water-soluble polymer (s) is between 0.01 and 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.  12. Composition according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that it has a pH greater than or equal to 5, preferably between 5 and 11, and in particular between 7 and 11.  13. Composition according to any one of claims 10 to 12, characterized in that it further contains one or more cosmetic or formulation additives, usually used in the field of styling and hair care.  4. Process for the cosmetic treatment of human keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising <Desc / Clms Page number 12>  applying a dispersion according to any of claims 1 to 9 or a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 10 to 13 to dry or wet fibers, and drying the deposit in the open air at room temperature or by means of a drying device such as a hair dryer.  15. A method of pre-treatment or post-treatment of human keratin fibers comprising applying the process according to claim 14 before or after a coloring, discoloring, permanent or relaxing treatment.  16. A hair styling method comprising applying a dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 9 or a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 10 to 13 to dry or wet hair, shaping the hair so treated, and * drying the deposit in the open air at room temperature or by means of a drying device such as a hair dryer.