FR2777181A1 - Water-in-oil cosmetic composition without greasy feel and useful as carrier - Google Patents

Abstract

Water-in-oil cosmetic and dermatological composition for topical use contains (wt.%): (1) cyclomethicone (I) (1-50); (2) 6 - 40C liquid hydrocarbon and/or an ester of a liquid fatty acid and a fatty alcohol (II) (0.5-30); (3) natural phospholipid (III) (1-50); and (4) water (40-90). The cyclomethicone is of formula (I). n = 3-6, preferably 4-5. A mixture of cyclomethicones (I) may also be used. The preferred composition contains (wt.%): (I) (3-20), (II) (1-15), (III) (4-30), and water (60-90). An Independent claim is also included for the preparation of the composition comprising: (1) dissolving a phospholipid in the hydrocarbons, esters, and alcohols; (2) adding the hydrophobic adjuvants, and the cyclomethicones; (3) optionally dispersing the pigments; (4) separately, dissolving the hydrophilic constituents in water to prepare an aqueous phase; and (5) adding the aqueous phase to the hydrophobic phase.

Description

The present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions or

  dermatological for topical application, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, containing cyclomethicones and phospholipids and

their preparation process.

  Cosmetic formulations are, in general, intended to provide the skin with substances capable of improving its condition or the

protect.

  These substances are, generally speaking, hydrating, protective, regulating, nutritive, etc. substances. They are very varied in chemical nature

  and can be either rather water-soluble or rather liposoluble.

  We know all the interest of phospholipids, in particular natural phospholipids such as those found in lecithins, for

  certain types of cosmetic formulations such as liposome dispersions.

  Furthermore, emulsions of triglycerides stabilized with lecithin are known. All these products often leave a judged touch on the skin

  too greasy during applications in the cosmetic field.

  Cyclomethicones are cyclic compounds of the dimethylpolysiloxane type corresponding to the general formula: -CH 3 -si-ol_ CH3 _n

  in which n has an average value between 3 and 6.

  The products of the cyclomethicone family are particularly known in the field of cosmetics for their quality of cosmetic feel when applied to the skin. However, these products have the disadvantage

  not to easily form stable emulsions with water.

  It has now been discovered that, quite unexpectedly, the products of the cyclomethicone family, provided that they are mixed with another hydrophobic product chosen from liquid hydrocarbons and liquid esters of fatty acid and fatty alcohol , could lead to stable emulsions with water

  in the presence of natural phospholipids, in particular lecithins.

  The emulsions thus formed prove to be particularly stable and have excellent cosmetic qualities. An additional advantage of such emulsions is that they can be used to convey cosmetic active ingredients into the skin or

  both water-soluble and liposoluble.

  One of the essential characteristics of the compositions described in this document is that they are in the form of emulsions. That's why we

  will denote below indifferently by emulsions or compositions.

  Thus, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical application in the form of an emulsion of the water-in-oil type, characterized in that it contains, expressed as a percentage by weight: - 1 to 50 %, preferably 3 to 20%, of a cyclomethicone corresponding to the general formula: CH3 lCHn in which n is between 3 and 6 and preferably equal to 4 or 5, or of a mixture of cyclomethicones, - 0, 5 to 30%, preferably 1 to 15%, of a C6 to C40 liquid hydrocarbon, a liquid fatty acid ester and fatty alcohol or a mixture of such hydrocarbons and / or esters, - 1 to 50%, preferably 4 to 30%, of a natural phospholipid or of a mixture of natural phospholipids,

  - 40 to 90%, preferably 60 to 90%, of water.

  As we have seen previously, the cyclomethicones are cyclic dimethylsiloxanes corresponding to the general formula: CH 3

if-o1--

CH3 _.

  in which na has an average value between 3 and 6. However, for the preparation of the emulsions of the invention, cyclomethicones in which n has an average value of 4 or 5 will advantageously be chosen. The hydrocarbon or liquid hydrocarbons optionally used in the preparation of the emulsions defined above could be any C6 to C40 liquid hydrocarbon or any mixture of such liquid hydrocarbons A saturated hydrocarbon will advantageously be chosen which may be linear in the case of the lightest hydrocarbons, from the moment this hydrocarbon is liquid. This hydrocarbon can also be a branched hydrocarbon, which is essential for the heaviest hydrocarbons. As examples

  of usable hydrocarbons, mention will be made of isododecane.

  By liquid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters is meant, within the meaning of the invention, liquid esters having acid and alcohol chains containing

from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

  When the composition of the invention contains such liquid esters, they will advantageously be chosen from liquid esters of fatty alcohols and natural fatty acids. We will advantageously choose jojoba oil. We will be able to

  however also choose synthetic jojoba oil.

  As phospholipid or mixture of phospholipids, any natural phospholipid may be used. However, lecithin should preferably be used

soy or egg lecithin.

  It has been observed that the stability of the emulsion is further improved when the proportions of cyclomethicones and of hydrocarbons and esters of fatty acids and alcohols are such that the hydrocarbons and esters of acids and fatty alcohols represent at least 30% by weight relative to the cyclomethicone or to the

mixture of cyclomethicones.

  The aqueous phase of the emulsion of the invention advantageously contains at least one C2 to C6 alcohol or a C2 to C6 polyol or a mixture of such alcohols and polyols. As preferred alcohols or polyols in C2 to C6, mention will be made of ethanol, propanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol. These alcohols and / or polyols and / or mixtures of alcohols and polyols, when introduced into the emulsions of the invention preferably represent from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight per relative to weight

total emulsion.

  The emulsion may also contain 0.1 to 10% by weight of another hydrophobic compound or of a mixture of other hydrophobic compounds, said other hydrophobic compounds being chosen from waxes, vegetable oils,

  fatty acid triglycerides and sterols.

  Finally, the emulsions of the invention may contain various adjuvants, both hydrophilic and lipophilic, conventionally used in

  cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

  Thus, the emulsions of the invention may advantageously contain: from 0.1 to 1% by weight of additives chosen from preservatives, bactericides and fungicides, - from 1 to 5% by weight of a UV or d filter '' a mixture of UV filters, - from 0.1 to 5% by weight of perfumes, - from 1 to 10% by weight of solid particles chosen from

  pigments, micropigments and mineral fillers.

  The advantage of the emulsions of the invention is essentially that they can be used to convey substances through the skin as well

hydrophobic than hydrophilic.

  The hydrophilic or hydrophobic substances targeted can be any cosmetic or dermatological agent soluble in water, in hydrocarbons or

in oils.

  The invention relates very particularly to cosmetic or dermatological compositions in the form of emulsions as defined above and containing, in addition, 0.001 to 5% by weight of cosmetic or dermatological active agents chosen from cosmetic or dermatological agents

  soluble in water, or in hydrocarbons or oils.

  By way of nonlimiting examples of cosmetic or dermatological active substances, particular mention will be made of those chosen from the group consisting of vitamins and vitamin derivatives, trace elements, amino acids, ceramides, sterols, retinoic acid, ecdysteroids such as 20-hydroxyecdysone, P3-glycyrrhetinic acid, ammonium glycyrrhizinate, hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid, urea, sodium pyroglutamate, triterpenes , ginsenosides, derivatives of acids

  asian and madecassic, sericoside, visnadine, caffeine, mono-

  and dimethylxanthines, plant extracts, algae extracts, yeast extracts, bacteria extracts, mushroom extracts, melatonin, DHEA, proteins, fatty alcohols, sugars, α-hydroxy acids ,

  essential oils, panthenol, salicylic acid.

  Finally, according to a second aspect, the invention relates to a process for preparing the compositions in the form of emulsions as they have been

previously defined.

  According to this process: - a first mixture is produced comprising the phospholipid (s), hydrocarbons and liquid esters of fatty acids and alcohols, - the various hydrophobic adjuvants of the formulation are added to said mixture, - the cyclomethicone or the mixture of cyclomethicones, - the pigments are optionally dispersed in the mixture, to prepare a first phase called hydrophobic phase A, - the hydrophilic constituents of said emulsion are dissolved, if necessary, in water to form an aqueous phase , called aqueous phase B, - the aqueous phase B is added to the hydrophobic phase A.

EXAMPLES

  The cosmetic compositions, the formulation of which is given in the examples below, in which the proportions of the various constituents are expressed in percentages by weight, are prepared by following the following operating method: Phase A: 1) Mixing by stirring or kneading the lecithin with the

  hydrocarbons or liquid esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohol.

  2) We add to this mixture by stirring or kneading the different

  hydrophobic adjuvants of the formulation.

  3) The expected amount of cyclomethicone is added to this mixture with stirring.

  4) Optionally, the pigments are dispersed in this mixture.

  Phase B:) The hydrophilic constituents of the formula are dissolved in the quantity of water provided (preservatives, polyols, products with cosmetic activity

or dermatological).

  6) The aqueous phase B is added slowly, with stirring, to the

  hydrophobic phase A carried out in 3) or in 4).

  Example 1: Product for dry skin Phase A: Isododecane 4.3 Egg lecithin 4 Vitamin F 0.4 Cyclomethicone (n = 4) 10.8 Fragrance 0.5 Phase B: Glycerol 2 Sorbitol 2 Urea 0.5 Pyroglutamate sodium 0.5 hydroxyecdysone 0.1 Parahydroxybenzoates 0.5 Water qs 100 Example 2: Product for sensitive skin Phase A: Isododecane 6 Soy lecithin 12 Beta-glycyrrhetinic acid 0.2 Cyclomethicone (n = 4) 12 Fragrance 0.4 Phase B: Glycerol 3 Vitamin E phosphate 0.1 Butylene glycolic extract of amurous Pélodendron 2 Parahydroxybenzoates 0.5 Water qs 100 Example 3: Anti-aging cream Phase A: Isododecane 6 Soy lecithin 20 Vitamin F 0.5 Tocopherol linoleate 0.5 Palmitate of vitamin A 0.5 Perfume 0.5 Cyclomethicone (n = 4) 12 Phase B: Glycerol 3 Asiaticoside 0.3 Vitamin C phosphate 0.5 Parahydroxybenzoates 0.5 Water qs 100 Example 4 Depigmenting dermatology product Phase A: Isododecane 4.2 Soy lecithin 6 Transretinoic acid 0.02 Cyclométhico ne (n = 4) 9.8 Phase B: Glycerin 2 Hydroquinone 5 Preservatives p-hydroxybenzoates 0.5 Water qs 100

Claims (12)

  1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical application, in the form of an emulsion of the water-in-oil type, characterized in that it comprises, expressed in weight percentages: - 1 to 50%, preferably 3 to 20%, of a cyclomethicone corresponding to the general formula: CH3 lCH3- n. in which n is between 3 and 6 and preferably equal to 4 or 5, or of a mixture of cyclomethicones, - 0.5 to 30%, preferably 1 to 15%, of a liquid hydrocarbon from C6 to C40 , a liquid ester of fatty acid and fatty alcohol or a mixture of such hydrocarbons and / or esters, - 1 to 50%, preferably 4 to 30%, of a natural phospholipid or of a mixture of natural phospholipids,   - 40 to 90%, preferably 60 to 90%, of water.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the (or) natural phospholipid (s) is (are) chosen (s) from lecithins,   preferably egg or soy lecithin.   3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in   what hydrocarbons and fatty acid and alcohol esters represent at least   % by weight relative to the cyclomethicone or to the mixture of cyclomethicones.   4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that   that it additionally contains 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 5%, of an alcohol or of a C2 to C6 polyol or of a mixture of such alcohols and / or polyols, said alcohols or polyols preferably being chosen from ethanol, propanol,   propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol.   5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that   that it also contains from 0.1 to 10% by weight of another hydrophobic compound or of a mixture of other hydrophobic compounds, chosen from waxes, oils   vegetable, fatty acid triglycerides and sterols.   6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that   that it also comprises from 0.1 to 10% of additives chosen from preservatives,   bactericides and fungicides.   7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that   that it further comprises 1 to 5% by weight of a UV filter or of a mixture of UV filters.   8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that   that it also contains 0.1 to 5% by weight of perfumes.   9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that   that it also contains 1 to 10% by weight of solid particles chosen from   pigments, micropigments and mineral fillers.   10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in   which it also contains 0.001 to 5% by weight of cosmetic or dermatological active agents soluble in the aqueous phase or the oil phase constituting said emulsion.   11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that said active agents are chosen from the group consisting of vitamins and vitamin derivatives, trace elements, amino acids, ceramides, sterols,   retinoic acid, ecdysteroids such as 20-hydroxyecdysone, f3- acid   glycyrrhetinic, ammonium glycyrrhizinate, hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid, urea, sodium pyroglutamate, triterpenes, ginsenosides, derivatives of Asian and madecassic acids, sericoside, visnadine, caffeine, mono- and dimethylxanthines, plant extracts, algae extracts, yeast extracts, bacteria extracts, mushroom extracts, melatonin, DHEA, proteins, fatty alcohols, sugars, o-hydroxy acids, essential oils, panthenol, salicylic acid.   12. Method for preparing a composition according to one of   Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that:   - a first mixture is produced comprising the phospholipid (s), hydrocarbons and liquid esters of fatty acids and alcohols, - the various hydrophobic adjuvants of the formulation are added to the said mixture, - the cyclomethicone or the mixture is then added of cyclomethicones, - the pigments are optionally dispersed in the mixture, to prepare a first phase called the hydrophobic phase A, - the hydrophilic constituents of the said emulsion are dissolved, if necessary, in water to form an aqueous phase, called the aqueous phase B, - the aqueous phase B is added to the hydrophobic phase A.