FR2745176A1 - Cosmetic composition for skin and hair care - Google Patents

Abstract

The cosmetic composition comprises (a) 0.1-30 (2-10) % of at least one amphoteric surfactant derived from an aminoacid and containing 0.05-1 wt. % inorganic salts on surfactant; (b) 0.01-10 % of a conditioning agent of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric type or a mixture of these and (c) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for the skin and / or the hair comprising surfactants derived from amino acids and conditioning agents.

The cosmetic compositions are generally formulated by placing one or more active or treating ingredients, and optionally additives, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

However, the nature of the vehicle does not always make it possible to solubilize all the ingredients and the use of surfactants is then necessary to compatibilize the ingredients in the vehicle in the form of a dispersion or an emulsion.

Regardless of the nature of the vehicle, even when the composition does not pose a problem of compatibility, it may be desirable to incorporate surfactants into the composition to obtain particular properties during use, for example to promote the formation of foam .

Unfortunately, the surfactants are themselves sometimes incompatible with other ingredients of the composition and may be at the origin of cloudiness or opacity, or of inhomogeneity or even demixing in the composition, adversely affecting, on the one hand, the aesthetics of the product and, secondly, the regularity of the deposition of agents on the hair (or skin) and more generally to the desired properties, for example to the formation of foam.

Thus, in the field of hair compositions or for the skin, a major difficulty consists in compatibilizing the surfactants and the conditioning agents. A number of solutions exist but often require the use of irritating surfactants for the skin and (or the eye.

However, in recent years, there is a very important need for surfactants which are both effective and which are not irritating to the skin or the eyes and which can be used without particular precautions with maximum safety.

Researches of non-irritating products have converged on amphoteric surfactants (that is to say having an overall electrical charge of zero) of the betaine or amphoacetate type, the synthetic processes of which are generally based on a carboxylation reaction of a fatty amine, for example an alkylamidoethylethanolamine or an alkylimidazoline, on monochloroacetic acid or its sodium salt. This synthesis thus leads to the release of Na + Cl-, the Cl- anion from monochloroacetic acid, as well as the release of sodium glycolate from the hydrolysis of the starting acid.

The major disadvantages encountered with the surfactants of the above type are as follows - significant increase in the viscosity of the surfactant solution which does not allow
to concentrate the solutions beyond a concentration by weight of about 30% because the
viscosity increases sharply, which prevents the marketing of solutions
concentrated; - deterioration of the cold behavior and emulsifying and stabilizing properties; - problem of compatibility with the other additives of the compositions (agents
thickeners, preservatives, silicone emulsions, fixative resins, agents
conditioners, etc.).

The present invention aims to solve the compatibility problems posed by these surfactants in the presence of conditioning agents in cosmetic compositions.

 It has been unexpectedly found that the performance of the cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention can be achieved by careful control of the levels of inorganic salts (in particular NaCl) in these amphoteric surfactants: by limiting this content to a certain amount. very low, typically 0.05 to 1% by weight, these surfactants are fully compatible with conditioning agents and the ingredients of the composition can be applied homogeneously on the skin or hair to effectively develop their properties.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the hair and (or for the skin comprising: a) from 0.1 to 30% of an amphoteric surfactant derived from an amino acid having an inorganic salts content of 0.05 to 1 % in weight; b) from 0.01 to 10% of a conditioning agent which may be of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric nature, or a mixture; (c) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

The compositions forming the subject of the invention can be formulated into a large number of types of products, such as foams, gels, conditioners, rinse formulas, hand and body lotions, regulating products and the like. hydration of the skin, sun creams, anti acne preparations, local painkillers, mascaras and many other compositions of the same type.

The term composition or cosmetic formulation is understood to mean all cosmetic products or preparations such as those described in Annex I ("illustrative list by category of cosmetic products") of European Directive 76/768 / EEC of 27 July 1976 cosmetic.

The products described as constituting compositions which are the subject of the invention can be used in this type of formulations for skin and hair and more particularly in formulations of lotions, toilet milks, make-up removing compositions, creams of care or creams or lotions for protection against the sun and ultraviolet radiation, mousses, styling gels or any formulation used for styling or for facilitating hair combing.

In the present application, the term "amino acid", as well known to those skilled in the art, a compound carrying at least one amine function and an acid function such as those present in amino acids and natural acids, including carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid functions.

Surfactants derived from amino carboxylic acid or amino sulfonic acid which can be used according to the invention are amphoteric surfactants comprising: at least one ammonium function or an amino function capable of being protonated, and at least one carboxylic acid function or sulfonic, respectively.

These surfactants may be in particular betaine or sulfobetaine surfactants, including amidoalkylbetaines and amidoalkyl sulfobetaines, or alternatively amphoacetate surfactants or amphodiacetates.

Among the surfactants of betaine type, mention will be made, for example
betaines of formula 1
R1 R2 R3NR4 C (O) O- (1)
sulfobetaines of formula 2:
R1 R2 R3NR4 SO3- (2)
amidoalkyl betaines of formula 3:
R1C (O) -NH R4 N (R2 R3) Rs C (O) O- (3)
and the amidoalkylsulfobetaines of formula 4:
R1C (O) -NH R4 N (R2 R3) R5 SO3- (4) in which the radical R1 represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, the radicals R2, and R3, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and the radicals R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, represent an alkylene radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

The betaines of formula (1) can be obtained in particular by carboxylation of the amine of formula R1 R2R3N by the halocarboxylic acid of formula Hal-R4COOH or a salt thereof, whereas the sulphobetaines of formula (2) can be obtained in particular by sulfonation of the amine of formula R 1 R 2 R 3 N by the halosulfonic acid of formula
Hal-R4-SO3H or a salt thereof in the presence of an alkaline agent. These reactions are accompanied by the release of the corresponding alkaline halide salt.

The amidoalkyl betaines or sulfobetaines are obtained analogously from the corresponding amidoalkylamine.

dans laquelle R1 a la signification ci-dessus et représente le plus souvent des chaînes coco et lauryle, R6 et R7 identiques ou différents, représentent un radical alkylène ayant 2 à 6 atomes de carbone, et M représente un atome d'hydrogène ou de métal alcalin, ou un groupe ammonium.Among the surfactants of the amphoacetate type, mention will be made more particularly of alkylamphoacetates corresponding to the general formula (5):

in which R 1 has the above meaning and most often represents coco and lauryl chains, R 6 and R 7, which are identical or different, represent an alkylene radical having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and M represents a hydrogen or metal atom. alkali, or an ammonium group.

et leurs homologues répondant plus généralement à la formule (5)

formules dans lesquelles R1, R6, R7 et M ont les significations ci-dessus.The present invention more specifically relates to cosmetic compositions comprising amphoteric surfactants such as alkylamphoacetates, and more particularly the amidoamine derivatives listed in the MCosmetics dictionary.
Toiletries Fragrance Association "1994 Edition under the names alkylamphoacetate or alkylamphodiacetate and having the formula

and their counterparts more generally responding to formula (5)

formulas in which R1, R6, R7 and M have the meanings above.

A method generally used to prepare alkylamphoacetates is the reaction of an alkylimidazoline of formula (6).

in which R 1, R 6 and R 7 have the meanings given above, or of one of its open-ring derivatives with a monohaloacetic acid, preferably chloroacetic acid or one of its salts in the presence of an alkaline agent (see in particular US
A 2,528,378 and US-A-2,773,068).

Preferably the pH of the reaction mixture is set to not exceed 10 during the reaction (see European Patent Application EP-A-0 647 469).

The alkali is preferably sodium hydroxide and the pH is preferably maintained between 8.5 and 9.5, the temperature of the reaction being preferably between 75 and 85 μl.

For the purposes of the present invention, the various surfactants derived from carboxylic or sulphonic amino acids described above must have a low content of inorganic salts, in particular alkali halides which may derive from their synthesis, limited to 0.05 to 1%. in weight. Surprisingly, it has been observed that these low levels, but not zero, made it possible to prepare compatible compositions.

The surfactants with a low content of inorganic salts constituting cosmetic compositions for the skin or for the hair which are the subject of the invention may be obtained according to various purification methods well known to those skilled in the art, for example purification by dialysis or electrodialysis of aqueous solutions of surfactants as described in the French patent application N95 04 014 filed by the Applicant on April 5, 1995, the precipitation of inorganic salts, in particular by a third solvent, or liquid liquid extraction, or following synthetic methods not leading to the formation of inorganic salts. For example, an alkylamphoacetate suitable for the invention can be obtained directly by reaction of an aminoalkylalkanolamine of formula (7):
In which R 1, R 6 and R 7 have the meaning indicated above with formaldehyde and a cyanide of formula (8): ## STR2 ##
XCN (8) wherein X represents a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal, especially lithium, sodium or potassium, provided that if X is a hydrogen atom, the nitrile obtained is hydrolyzed with an alkaline agent.

Such a cyanide process is described in British Patent Application No. 94.23573 filed November 22, 1994. The alkaline agent is preferably sodium hydroxide.

Preferably, R6 and R7 are identical and represent an ethylene radical in formula (7).

The preferred methods of preparation of the surfactants which are suitable for the cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention are the electrodialysis of aqueous solutions of surfactants or the cyanide process.

In general, the amino acid-derived surfactants having an inorganic salt content of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, used in the hair cosmetic compositions forming the subject of the invention, are present in an amount corresponding to about 0.1-30%, advantageously 0.5-30% by weight relative to the total weight of the formulation, preferably from 2 to 10%. The quantities can be adjusted to obtain the best level of performance.

Among the conditioning agents that can be used in the context of this invention, there are the conditioning agents of animal origin, such as hydrolysates of animal proteins, such as ammonium salts of dimethyl or trimethyl stearate of hydrolysates of collagen, silk, keratin; conditioning agents of synthetic origin, better known under the name polyquaternium, such as the copolymer of N, N'bis ((dimethylamino) -3 propyl) urea and oxy-1,1 'bis (2-chloro) ethane or polyquaternium2, the copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide or polyquaternium-7; cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, such as cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose, guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Jaguar Ci 35, Jaguar Ci 62 marketed by Rhone-Poulenc), poly (oxyethanediyl) ether 2) hydroxy-2-trimethylammonium chloride propyl cellulose or polyquaternium-10; silicone derivatives such as amodimethicone, cyclomethicone, copolyol cetyl dimethicone, cyclomethicone, dimethicone copolyol, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone, polyquaternium-80; surfactants of cationic type such as polyalkylammonium halides, for example distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.

The conditioning agents used as constituents of the cosmetic compositions forming the subject of the invention are preferably chosen from conditioning agents of synthetic origin, in particular polyquaterniums -2, -7, and -10, and cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, such as cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride
It will be preferred to use the cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, and in particular the guar derivatives such as hydroxypropyl trimonium guar chloride and hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride.

The proportion of the conditioner can be freely selected in the range of 0.01 to 10%, depending on the case, 0.5 to 10%, 1 to 10%, 1 to 5%.

The cosmetic compositions that are the subject of the invention comprise a vehicle, or a mixture of several vehicles. which are compatible with an application on the hair and / or on the skin. These vehicles may be present in particular at concentrations of between 0.5% and 99.5%, preferably between 5 and 99.5%. The term compatible with an application on the hair and / or on the skin means here that the vehicle does not harm or exert any negative effects on the appearance of the hair or does not cause irritation of the skin and / or the eye and / or the scalp.

Vehicles compatible with the applications described in this invention include, for example, those used in sprays, foams, tonics, gels, shampoos, or rinse lotions. The choice of the appropriate vehicle will depend on the nature of the constituents, particularly the resin, and whether the formulated product is intended to be left on the surface where it has been applied (eg sprays, foams, toner, or gels) or rinsed after use (eg shampoo, conditioner, rinse lotions).

The vehicles which may be used include a large number of products usually used in cosmetic compositions for the hair and / or the skin.

The vehicles may comprise a solvent for solubilizing or dispersing the ingredients used, such as water, C1-C6 alcohols, and mixtures thereof, in particular water and methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, and their derivatives. mixtures.

The problem of compatibility is particularly crucial in the case where a vehicle comprising a phase of hydrophilic nature is brought into contact with lipophilic ingredients, since the homogeneity of the composition directly depends on the possible interactions between its constituents. This is the case, in particular, when the vehicle and hydrophilic base, including water or alcohols or is of water / oil emulsion type.

The vehicles may also include a wide variety of other compounds such as ketones such as acetone, hydrocarbons (such as isobutane, hexane, decene), halogenated hydrocarbons (such as freons), linalool, esters (such as ethyl acetate, dibutyl phthalate) and volatile silicones (in particular siloxanes such as phenyl pentamethyl siloxane, methoxypropyl heptamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, chloropropyl pentamethyl disiloxane, hydroxypropyl pentamethyl disiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane , decamethylcyclopenta siloxane, cyclodimethicone, and dimethicone), and mixtures thereof.

When these cosmetic compositions are in the form of sprays, tonic lotions, gels, or foams, the preferred solvents include water, ethanol, volatile silicone derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The solvents used in these mixtures may be miscible or immiscible with each other.

Foams and aerosol sprays can also use any propellant capable of generating the products in the form of foam (in the case of foams) or in the form of fine, uniform sprays. By way of examples, mention may be made of trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, or isobutane.

In the case where the cosmetic compositions are used for local application on the skin, the vehicles must have good aesthetic properties and not pose a problem regarding toxicity and irritation.

These vehicles can take a lot of forms. For example, vehicles in the form of emulsions include water-in-oil, oil-in-water, and oil-in-silicone emulsions. These emulsions cover a wide range of viscosity, from 0.1 to 200 Pa.s. These emulsions can also be delivered in the form of sprays using either a device of mechanical pump type, or in the form of aerosol pressurized by the use of a propellant gas. These vehicles can also be delivered in the form of foam. Examples which may be mentioned are anhydrous liquid solvents, such as oils, alcohols and silicones, homogeneous aqueous mixtures such as hydroalcoholic mixtures, and rheologically modified versions of these two systems, for example when the viscosity of the system has been increased by the addition of gums, resins. polymers, or salts.

The cosmetic compositions that are the subject of the invention may also contain fixing resins. These fixing resins are generally present at concentrations of between 0.01 and 10%, preferably between 0.5 and 5%. The fixative resins that can be used in the cosmetic compositions that are the subject of the invention are preferably chosen from the following resins: acrylate / acrylamide copolymers, polyvinylmethylether / maleic anhydride copolymer, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer, octylacrylamide / acrylate / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer.

polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, in particular copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and of methyl methacrylate, copolymer of polyvinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate (VA), polyvinyl alcohol, copolymer of polyvinyl alcohol and crotonic acid, copolymer of alcohol polyvinyl and maleic anhydride.

hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroypropyl guar, sodium polystyrene sulfonate. polyvinylpyrrolidone terpolymer / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, poly (methylvinyl ether / maleic acid) monomethyl ether, polycondensates of ethylene glycol terephthalate / ethylene glycol, diester polycondensates, terephthalic acid / anhydride / sulfoisophthalic acid / glycol, and their mixtures. The fixing resins may also contain functionalized polyorganosiloxane functional groups grafted as described in patent WO 95/06079.

Preferably, the fixing resins will be of the polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) type, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and of methyl methacrylate. copolymer of polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate (VA), polycondensates of ethylene glycol terephthalate / ethylene glycol, diester polycondensates, terephthalic acid / anhydride / sulfoisophthalic acid / glycol, and mixtures thereof.

These fixative resins are preferably dispersed or solubilized in the chosen vehicle.

The cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention may also contain polymeric derivatives exerting a protective function.

These polymeric derivatives may advantageously be present in amounts of about 0.01-10%, preferably about 0.1-5%, and most preferably about 0.2-3% by weight. In particular, agents such as
cellulose derivatives such as cellulose hydroxyethers, methylcellulose,
Ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxybutyl methylcellulose. poly (vinyl ester) grafted on polyoxyalkylene trunks such as poly (acetate divinyl) grafted on polyoxyethylene trunks (EP-A-219 048). polyvinyl alcohols. polyester copolymers based on ethylene terephthalate and / or propylene terephthalate and polyoxyethylene terephthalate units, with a ratio of the number of ethylene terephthalate units and / or propylene terephthalate to the number of polyoxyethylene terephthalate units of the order of 1 / 10 to 10/1, preferably of the order of 1/1 to 9/1, the polyoxyethylene terephthalates having polyoxyethylene units having a molecular weight of about 300 to 5000, preferably of the order of 600 at 5000 (US-A-3,959,230, US-A-3,893,929, US-A-4,116,896, US-A-4,702,857, US-A-4,770,666); . sulfonated polyester oligomers obtained by sulfonation of an oligomer derived from ethoxylated allyl alcohol, dimethyl terephthalate and 1,2-propylene diol having from 1 to 4 sulfonated groups (US-A-4,968,451). polyester copolymers based on propylene terephthalate and polyoxyethylene terephthalate units and terminated with ethyl or methyl units (US-A-4,711,730) or polyester oligomers terminated by alkylpolyethoxy groups (US-A-4,702,857) or sulfopolyethoxy anionic groups (US-A-4,721,580), sulfoaroyles (US-A-4,877,896). polyester-polyurethane obtained by reaction of a polyester of number 300-4000 molecular weight obtained from adipic acid and / or terephthalic acid and / or sulfoisophthalic acid and a diol of mass less than 300, on a prepolymer with terminal isocyanate groups obtained from a polyoxyethylene glycol with a molecular mass of 600-4000 and a diisocyanate (FR-A-2 334 698)
ethoxylated monoamines or polyamines, ethoxylated amine polymers (US-A-4,597,898, EP-A-1, 1988). sulphonated polyester oligomers obtained by condensation of isophthalic acid, dimethyl sulphosuccinate and diethylene glycol (FR-A-2,236,926).

The performance of the cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention can also be improved by the use of plasticizing agents. The plasticizer may advantageously represent from 0.1 to 20% by weight of the formulation, preferably from 1 to 15% .Advantageous plasticizing agents that may be mentioned include adipates, phthalates, isophthalates and azelates. , stearates, silicone copolyols. glycols,
Castor oil, or mixtures thereof.

These cosmetic compositions may also comprise surfactants which serve to disperse, emulsify, solubilize and stabilize various compounds used for their emollient or humectant properties. The surfactants can be used in these compositions at concentrations advantageously varying from 0.05 to 50% by weight of the preparation. Anionic, nonionic, cationic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants or mixtures of these surfactants are thus found.

In particular, surfactants such as. alkyl ester sulfonates of formula R-CH (SO 3 M) -COOR ', where R represents a C 8 -C 20 alkyl radical, preferably a C 10 -C 16 alkyl radical, R' a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical. preferably C1-C3 and M an alkaline cation (especially sodium, potassium, lithium), a substituted or unsubstituted ammonium (especially methyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, tetramethylammonium, or dimethylpiperidinium) or derivative of an alkanolamine (especially monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine). Mention may especially be made of methyl ester sulfonates whose radical R is C14-C16; . alkylsulphates of formula ROSO3M, where R represents a C10-C24, preferably C12-C20, and especially C12-C18, alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical, M representing a hydrogen atom or a cation of the same definition as above; as well as their ethoxylated (EO) and / or propoxylated (PO) derivatives, having on average from 0.5 to 6 units, preferably from 0.5 to 3 EO and / or OP units; . alkylamide sulphates of formula RCONHR'OSO3M where R represents an alkyl radical
C2-C22, preferably C6-C20, R 'a C2-C3 alkyl radical, M representing a hydrogen atom or a cation of the same definition as above, and their ethoxylated derivatives (EO) and / or propoxylated (PO), with an average of 0.5 to 60 EO and / or
OP; . saturated or unsaturated C8-C24, preferably C14-C20 fatty acid salts, C8-C20 alkylbenzene sulphonates, Cg-C22 primary or secondary alkylsulfonates, alkylglycerol sulphonates, sulphonated polycarboxylic acids described in British A-1082,179, paraffin sulfonates, N-acyl N-alkyltaurates, alkylphosphates, alkylisethionates, alkylsuccinamates, alkylsulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinates monoesters or diesters, N-acyl sarcosinates, alkylglycoside sulfates, polyethoxycarboxylates, the cation of which is an alkali metal (in particular sodium, potassium, lithium), a substituted or unsubstituted ammonium (in particular methyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, tetramethylammonium or dimethylpiperidinium) or an alkanolamine derivative (in particular monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine)
In addition to these products may be present in said compositions, one or more other additives selected from those of the types described below: nonionic surfactants, such as polyoxyalkylenated alkylphenols (especially polyoxyethylenated, polyoxypropylenated, polyoxybutylenated ) whose alkyl substituent is C6-C12 and containing from 5 to 25 oxyalkylene units; by way of example, mention may be made of the TRITON X-45, X-114, X-100 or X-102 sold by Rohm & Haas Cy .; glucosamides, glucamides; glycerolamides derived from N-alkylamines (US-A-5,223,179 and FR-A-1,585,966) polyoxyalkylenated C8-C22 aliphatic alcohols containing from 1 to 25 oxyalkylene units (especially oxyethylene, oxypropylene); for example, we can mention the
TERGITOL 15-S-9, TERGITOL 24-L-6 NMW marketed by Union Carbide Corp.,
NEODOL 45-9, NEODOL 23-65, NEODOL 45-7, NEODOL 45-4 marketed by
Shell Chemical Cy., KYRO EOB marketed by The Procter & Gamble Cy.

the products resulting from the condensation of ethylene oxide with a hydrophobic compound resulting from the condensation of propylene oxide with propylene glycol, such as PLURONIC marketed by BASF; amine oxides such as C10-C18 alkyl dimethylamine oxides, C8-C22 alkoxy ethyl dihydroxy ethylamine oxides; alkylpolyg (in particular palm, coconut, cottonseed, soybean, sunflower, olive, grapeseed, sesame, peanut, castor oil, etc.) or the oils of origin (such as tallow, fish oils, ...), derivatives of these oils such as hydrogenated oils, lanolin derivatives, mineral oils or paraffinic oils, perhydrosqualane, squalene, diols such as 1- 2-propanediol, 1-3-butanediol,
Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, polyethylene glycols or polypropylene glycols, fatty esters such as isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, myristyl myristate, esters of lactic acid Stearic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, silicone oils comprising cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxanes-hydroxylated, α-trimethylsilylated polydimethylsiloxanes, polyorganosiloxanes such as polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polydiphenylsiloxanes, amino derivatives of silicones.

silicone waxes, silicone copolyethers (such as SILBIONE 70646 oil marketed by RHONE-POULENC or DC 190 marketed by DOW)
CORNING) or mixed silicone derivatives including various types of derivatization (such as mixed polyalkylmethylsiloxane-silicone copolyether copolymers).

To further reduce the irritation or aggression of the skin or scalp. it is also possible to add water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers such as collagen or certain non-allergenic derivatives of animal or vegetable proteins (hydrolisates of wheat proteins for example), natural hydrocolloids (such as guar gum, carob gum, tara gum) or from fermentation processes such as xanthan gum and derivatives of these polycarbohydrates such as modified celluloses (for example hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar or carob derivatives as their nonionic derivatives (for example hydroxypropylguar), derivatives ionic (carboxymethylguar) or mixed nonionic / anionic derivatives such as carboxyhydroxypropyl-guars.

The basic constituents may optionally be added in combination with powders or mineral particles such as calcium carbonate, mineral oxides in the form of powder or in colloidal form (particles of smaller size or of the order of one micrometer, sometimes of some tens of nanometers) such as titanium dioxide, silica, aluminum salts used especially as antiperspirants, kaolin, talc, clays and their derivatives.

Preservatives such as the methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid, sodium benzoate. the product marketed under the brand name GERMABEN or any chemical agent that prevents bacterial proliferation or molds and has traditionally used cosmetic compositions can advantageously be introduced into the compositions of the invention, especially at the level of
0.01 to 3% by weight. The quantity of these products is generally adjusted to avoid any
proliferation of bacteria, molds or yeasts in cosmetic compositions.

Alternatively to these chemical agents, modifying agents may sometimes be used
water activity and strongly increasing osmotic pressure like carbohydrates
or salts.

To protect the hair or the skin from the aggressions of the sun and the UV rays, one can
add to these formulations sunscreens that are either chemical compounds
strongly absorbing UV radiation like the compounds allowed in the directive
N 76/768 / EEC, its annexes and subsequent amendments to that Directive,
or titanium dioxide or cerium oxides in the form of powder or coloidal particles. These powders can optionally be surface treated to increase
the effectiveness of their anti-UV action, to facilitate their incorporation into cosmetic formulations or to inhibit surface photoreactivity.

To these ingredients it is generally possible to add to increase the approval during the use of the composition by the consumer, one or more perfumes, coloring agents of the composition among which may be mentioned the products described in Annex IV ("lisp of the european directive n 76/768 / EEC of 27 July 1976, known as the "cosmetic directive". and / or opacifying agents such as pigments. It is also possible to incorporate in the composition bactericidal or fungicidal agents in order to improve the disinfection of the scalp, for example triclosan.

Finally, the composition may also contain viscosifying or gelling polymers, such as crosslinked polyacrylates -particularly CARBOPOL brand products sold by GOODRICH-, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, guars and their derivatives, carob tara or cassia gum, xanthan gum, alginates, carrageenans, chitin derivatives such as chitosan .... used alone or in combination, or the same compounds, generally in the form of hydrosoluble polymers modified by hydrophobic groups covalently bonded to the polymer backbone as described in WO 92/16187 and / or water to bring the total of the constituents of the formulation to 100%.

The cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention may also contain polymeric dispersing agents, especially in amounts of the order of 0.1-7% by weight, to control the hardness of calcium and magnesium, agents such as water-soluble salts of polycarboxylic acids with a molecular mass of about 2,000 to 100,000, obtained by polymerization or copolymerization of ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, maleic acid or anhydride, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, aconitic acid, mesaconic acid, citraconic acid, methylenemalonic acid, and especially polyacrylates with a molecular weight of about 2,000 to 10,000 (US-A-3,308,067), copolymers of arylic acid and maleic anhydride with a molecular weight of from 5,000 to 75,000 (EP
A-66 915)
polyethylene glycols of molecular weight of the order of 1000 to 50 000.

The subject of the invention is also a method for manufacturing a composition as described above, characterized in that it comprises the steps of: a) purifying an amino acid-derived surfactant having an inorganic salt content greater than 1 % by weight, by a suitable separation technique to obtain a surfactant having a content of said salts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, and b) mixing the surfactant thus obtained with the conditioner and the vehicle, and optionally the others ingredients.

Another method which is the subject of the invention is characterized in that it comprises the steps of: a) preparing a surfactant of formula (5) by reacting an aminoalkylalkanolamine of formula (7)
Wherein R 1, R 6 and R 7 have the above meanings, with a cyanide of formula (8)
XCN (8) wherein X represents a hydrogen or alkali metal atom, followed by an alkaline hydrolysis of the nitrile formed in the case where X is a hydrogen atom, and b) mixing the surfactant having a salt content inorganic from 0.05 to 1% by weight
thus obtained, with the conditioner and the vehicle, and possibly the other ingredients.

The following examples illustrate the invention.

REFERENCE EXAMPLE: Preparation of cocoamphomonoacetate with low inorganic salt content
A TS-2-1OP pilot electrodialyzer marketed by the Company is used.
Eurodia. This electrodialyzer has a total effective membrane surface of 2000 cm 2 and comprises 10 cells with 2 compartments of 200 cm 2 of useful unit area.

The anionic and cationic membranes used are membranes marketed by Eurodia or Tokoyama Soda whose references are respectively
Neosepta AMI and Neosepta CMX.

2 liters of cocoamphomonoacetate solution at 26% by weight are electrodialized. This starting material was prepared by reaction of cocoimidazoline with chloroacetic acid according to Example 3 of European Patent Application EP-A-0 647 469, the pH being adjusted to 7 by the addition of HCl.

The reaction is carried out at ambient temperature with a current density of 18.4 mA / cm 2. The initial NaCl content is 8.5% based on the total weight of the solution. The viscosity of the initial solution is 44 mPa.s.

Electrodialysis is stopped after 8 hours.

The final content of sodium chloride is determined and a value of 0.6% is found, the sodium glycolate is also measured and it is found that it passes from a content of 1.2% to 0.6% . The final viscosity is 71 mPa.s. The concentration of cocoamphomonoacetate increases from 26% to 33%.

The irritant potential was evaluated by the Eytex method on the product itself and in formulation.

EXAMPLE 1: HIGHLIGHTING THE COMPATIBILITY OF THE PRODUCT
THE REFERENCE EXAMPLE IN THE PRESENCE OF CONDITIONING AGENTS WITH
FIXING RESINS
The surfactant of the reference example is associated with various products in a hair cosmetic composition: a fixing resin: Luviskol VA 37 - E (BASF)
Polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer in 50% solution in ethanol - an anionic surfactant: Empicol ESB (3M) laureth -2 sodium sulfate - a conditioner: Mirapol 550 (Rhône-Poulenc)
polyquaternium 7 - a conditioner: Jaguar C162 (Rhône Poulenc)
hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride
Compositions A and B are compositions according to the invention.

For comparative purposes, compositions C, D and E are prepared with Miranol C2M cocoamphoacetate (Rhone-Poulenc) containing 11% of inorganic salts (NaCl), or a cocoamidopropyl betaine Tegobetaine L7 containing 8% of inorganic salts.

The formulas of the compositions are shown in Table 1 below.

Table 1

<tb> Ingredients <SEP> Formulations <SEP> (pH <SEP> adjusted <SEP> to <SEP> 6)
<tb><SEP> A <SEP> B <SEP> C <SEP> D <SEP> E
<tb> product <SEP> of <SEP> the example <SEP> 5.6 <SEP>% <SEP> | <SEP> 5.6 <SEP>% <SEP>
<tb> of <SEP> reference
<tb> Miranol <SEP> C2M <SEP> Conc <SEP> 5.6 <SEP>% <SEP> 5.6% <SEP>
<tb> Tegobetain <SEP> L7 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 5.6%
<tb> Luviskol <SEP> VA <SEP> 37 <SEP> E <SEP> 2.0 <SEP>% <SEP> 3.0 <SEP>% <SEP> 2.0 <SEP>% <SEP> 2 , 0 <SEP>% <SEP> 3.0 <SEP>%
<tb> Empicol <SEP> BSE <SEP> 14.0% <SEP> 14.0% <SEP> 14.0% <SEP> 14.0% <SEP> 14.0%
<tb> Jaguar <SEP> 0.5% <SEP> 0.5% <SEP> 0.5 <SEP>
<tb> Mirapol <SEP> 550 <SEP> - <SEP> 0.7 <SEP>% <SEP> - <SEP> 0.7 <SEP>%
<tb> Water <SEP> qs <SEP> qs <SEP> qs <SEP> qs
<tb> ASPECT <SEP> limpid <SEP> limpid <SEP> demixion <SEP> disorder <SEP> opaque
<Tb>
The product of the reference example appears interesting in formulations A and B: in combination with cationic polymers and a resin, it makes it possible to obtain compatible and clear formulations, unlike Miranol C2M or Tegobetaine L7.

EXAMPLE 2: Highlighting the deposit of conditioners:
The method used is the measurement of the contact angle on capillary fiber, the principle of which is based on the Wihlemy method. A capillary fiber is immersed in distilled water at a speed of 2 mm / min over 2 mm. and the force exerted on the hair is measured by weighing, with a Cahn microbalance.

The wetting tension or the dynamic contact angle θ can be calculated directly from the wetting force Fw, the surface energy of the test liquid sslv, the circumference of the section (elliptical) of the hair P
W = Fw = (3lv * cos O
P
Fw = (3lv * cos O * P
A virgin European brown hair from HTZ (Germany) Ref.ER / Hair 20/25 of length 25 cm, which is cut in three sections of one cm (from the root - in the middle - to the tip) and the diameter of the fiber was previously measured each time using a micrometer (Mitutoyo).

Measurements were made to the advanced and the withdrawal.

Immersion cycles were performed to compare the desorption of the deposit.

The wick is washed with a 10% solution of Laureth-2 sulfate and dried, before carrying out the immersion treatment of the locks in the test solution for 1 minute and drying in ambient air.

Four shampoos F, G, H, I are prepared whose compositions in% by weight of active ingredient are indicated in Table 2 below.

Table 2

<tb><SEP> shampoos <SEP> F <SEP> (control) <SEP> G <SEP> (according to <SEP> H <SEP> (comparative) <SEP> I <SEP> (comparative)
<tb><SEP> the invention)
<tb> conditioner <SEP> 1 <SEP> 1 <SEP> 1 <SEP> 1
<tb> Jaguar <SEP> C14S
<tb><SEP> (%)
<tb><SEP> product <SEP> of <SEP> - <SEP><SEP> 10
<tb><SEP> the example <SEP> of
<tb> reference <SEP> (%)
<tb> Miranol <SEP> C2M <SEP> - <SEP><SEP> - <SEP> 10
<tb><SEP> (%)
<tb><SEP> Laureth-2 <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> - <SEP> 10
<tb><SEP> sulfate <SEP> (%)
<tb><SEP> water <SEP> qs <SEP> qs <SEP> qs <SEP> qs
<Tb>
the pH being adjusted to 6.5 with citric acid.

Results
The evaluations were carried out each time on the root of the hair and at least on two or even 3 elementary fibers.

<Tb>

<SEP> angle <SEP> of <SEP> wetting <SEP> O <SEP>(')
<tb> treatment <SEP> hair <SEP> 1 <SEP> era <SEP> 2nd <SEP> 3rd <SEP> 4th
<tb><SEP> blank <SEP> immersion <SEP> immersion <SEP> immersion <SEP> immersion
<tb><SEP> F <SEP> 1035 <SEP> 5 <SEP><<0<SEP> nd <SEP> 129 <SEP> nd
<Tb>

<SEP> G <SEP> 105.8 <SEP> 30.7 <SEP> 53.2 <SEP> 61.2 <SEP> 67.2 <SEP>
<tb><SEP> H <SEP> 100.1 <SEP> 42 <SEP> 75.5 <SE> 78.9 <SE> 84.8
<tb><SEP> 103.8 <SEP><<0<SEP> 90.5 <SEP> nd <SEP> nd
<Tb>

After treatment with the cationic guar alone (treatment F), the fiber shows positive wetting forces (contact angle close to 0). This indicates a drastic change in the epicuticular surface previously hydropha. At the second immersion the wetting forces become negative which indicates a desorption of the polymer after the first immersion.

Treatment G with the product of the reference example increases the substantivity of the polymer on the keratin surface, improves the homogeneity of the deposit and delays its desorption (the wetting angle remains relatively low longer).

In treatment I, the desorption occurs immediately during the first immersion in the shampoo comprising the anionic surfactant.

Examples 1 and 2 show that the use of the inorganic salt-poor surfactant improves the conditioning characteristics.

The following examples illustrate the preparation of conditioning compositions.

EXAMPLE 3: Structuring Shampoo

<tb><SEP> component <SEP>% <SEP> weight
<tb><SEP> A) <SEP> agent <SEP> structuring
<tb><SEP> polyvinylpyrrolidone <SEP> 1
<tb><SEP> octamethyl <SEP> cyclotetra <SEP> siloxane <SEP> 3
<tb><SEP> B) <SEP> Premix
<tb><SEP> Gum <SEP> Silicone <SEP> 0.5
<tb><SEP> dimethicone <SEP> 0.5
<tb><SEP> C) <SEP> main <SEP> mixture
<tb> product <SEP> of <SEP> the <SEP> example of <SEP> reference <SEP> 3
<tb><SEP> ammonium lauryl <SEP> sulfate <SEP><SEP> t <SEP><SEP> 8
<tb> cocamide <SEP> of <SEP> monoethanolamine <SEP> 2
<tb><SEP> Distearate <SEP> Ethylene <SEP> Glycol
<tb><SEP> gum <SEP> xanthan <SEP><SEP> i <SEP>
<tb><SEP> conservative <SEP> 1,2
<tb><SEP> acid <SEP> citric <SEP> qs <SEP> pH <SEP> 6.5 <SEQ> qs
<tb><SEP> water <SEP> distilled <SEP> qs
<Tb>
The structuring agent and premix are separately prepared in a conventional manner. The main mixture is prepared by first dissolving the xanthan gum in water. The other compounds are then added and the main mixture heated with stirring at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes. The structuring agent and the premix are then added sequentially, and the residual mixture is then allowed to return to ambient temperature with stirring.

EXAMPLE 4 SHAMPOO 3-IN-1 (shampoo conditioner anti-pukular)
TRANSPARENT

<tb> INGREDIENTS <SEP> Material <SEP> active <SEP>% <SEP> p / p <SEP>
<tb> conditioner <SEP> chloride <SEP> of ydroxypropyl <SEP> guar <SEP> 0.5
<tb><SEP> hydroxypropyltrimonium
<tb><SEP> surfactant <SEP> Sodium <SEP> Laureth <SEP> Sulfate <SEP> 20.0
<tb><SEP> product <SEP> of <SEP> example <SEP> of <SEP> reference <SEP> 10.0
<tb> agent <SEP> foaming <SEP> Cocamide <SEP> of <SEP> monoisopropanolamine <SEP> | <SEP> 1.0
<tb><SEP> anti-dandruff <SEP> Piroctone <SEP> Olamid <SEP> 0.5
<tb><SEP> conservative <SEP> qs
<Tb>

<SEP> perfume <SEP> qs
<Tb>

<SEP> acid <SEP> citric <SEP> qs
<Tb>

<SEP> water <SEP> qs
<Tb>

Guar is dispersed in water and hydrated with citric acid. The laureth sulfate and the product of the reference example are then added. It is heated to 50 ° C. and the cococamide of MPA is added. It is cooled to room temperature and the antidandruff, the preservative and the perfume are added.

The pH is adjusted to 6 with citric acid.

A formulation is obtained in the form of a slightly yellow liquid, pH 6, and a viscosity of 6000 to 8000 mPa.s (Brookfield, needle No. 4, 10 rpm, 25 ° C.).
EXAMPLE 5 SHAMPOO 2-IN-1 (shampoo conditioner)

<tb> INGREDIENTS <SEP> Material <SEP> active <SEP>% <SEP> p / p
<tb> surfactant <SEP> Sodium <SEP> Laureth <SEP> Sulfate <SEP> 30.0
<tb><SEP> (27 <SEP>% <SEP> active)
<tb><SEP> product <SEP> of <SEP> the <SEP> example of <SEP> 6
<tb><SEP> reference
<tb> conditioner <SEP> emulsion <SEP> of <SEP> diphenyl <SEP> 2.0
<tb><SEP> dimethicone
<tb><SEP> Lauramide <SEP> of <SEP> Diethanolamine <SEP> 2.0
<tb><SEP> distearate <SEP> from <SEP> glycol <SEP> 2.0 <SEP>
<tb><SEP> distearate <SEP> of <SEP> polyethylene <SEP> glycol <SEP> 1.5
<tb><SEP> 150
<tb><SEP> gum <SEP> xanthan <SEP> 0,8
<tb> preservative <SEP> Propylene <SEP> Glycol <SEP> qs
<Tb>

<SEP> Diazolinidyl <SEP> Urea
<tb><SEP> Methylparaben <SEP> + <SEP> Propylparaben
<tb> perfume <SEP> CA <SEP> 1502 <SEP> (1) <SEP> qs
<Tb>

<SEP> Polysorbate <SEP> 20 <SEP> qs
<Tb>

<SEP> acid <SEP> citric <SEP> qs
<Tb>

<SEP> water <SEP> distilled <SEP> QS
<Tb>

(1) AROMATIC CREATIONS
The xanthan is dispersed in water with stirring and the preservative is added while maintaining the stirring until dissolution. Sodium Laureth Sulfate and the product of Reference Example are added in portions with gentle stirring, and stirring is continued until a homogeneous medium is obtained. The DEA Lauramide is then added, the mixture is heated to 75 ° C. and 50 ° C. and the ethylene glycol distearate and the PEG-150 distearate are added.

When the medium becomes homogeneous, the mixture is cooled to room temperature with stirring and then the conditioner and the Polysorbate 20 / perfume mixture are gradually added. Stir until completely dispersed and adjust the pH to 7 with citric acid.

A pearlescent liquid with a viscosity of 3500 ± 500 mPa.s (Brookfield, et al.

No. 4, 10 rpm, 25 ° C), and pH 7.

EXAMPLE 6 NOURISHING SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR

<tb><SEP> INGREDIENTS <SEP> material <SEP> active <SEP>% <SEP> p / p
<tb><SEP> surfactants <SEP> Sodium <SEP> Laureth <SEP> Sulfate <SEP> 33.6
<tb><SEP> Sodium <SEP> laurnth6 <SEP> Carboxylate
<tb><SEP> Disodium <SEP> Laureth <SEP> Sulfosuccinate
<tb><SEP> product <SEP> of <SEP> example <SEP> of <SEP> reference <SEP> 6.1
<tb> promoter <SEP> of <SEP> foam <SEP> Lauramide <SEP> of <SEP> DEA <SEP> 1,2
<tb><SEP> Agent <SEP> Foaming <SEP> Distearate <SEP> from <SEP> Glycol <SEP> 2.0
<tb><SEP> Laureth <SEP> -7 <SEP>
<tb><SEP> Sodium <SEP> Cocoamphoacetate
<tb><SEP> Cocamidopropyl <SEP> Betaine
<tb><SEP> Propylene <SEP> Glycol
<tb><SEP> resin <SEP> fixative <SEP> Copolymer <SEP> Styrene / PVP <SEP> 0,5
<tb><SEP> conditioner <SEP> Polyquaternium-2 <SEP> 1.0
<tb><SEP> protein <SEP> of <SEP> silk <SEP> hydrolyzed <SEP> 0.5
<tb><SEP> Agent <SEP> Moisturizer <SEP> PEG-20 <SEP> Glycerides <SEP> Almond <SEP> 0.3
<tb><SEP> agent <SEP> feeding <SEP> Protein <SEP> of <SEP> hydrolyzed wheat <SEP><SEP> 1.0
<tb><SEP> Propylene <SEP> Glycol <SEP> 2.5 <SEP>
<tb><SEP> conservative <SEP> qs
<tb><SEP> perfume <SEP> qs
<tb><SEP> water <SEP> distilled <SEP> qs
<Tb>

The polyquaternium is dissolved in water, the product of Reference Example is added and neutralized with citric acid. The other ingredients are added and the pH is adjusted to 6.5.

A creamy white gel, pH 6.5, viscosity 5900 mPa.s (Brookfield et al., 10 rpm, 25 ° C.) is obtained.
EXAMPLE 7: CONDUCTIVE SHAMPOO WITH PLANT EXTRACTS

<tb><SEP> INGREDIENTS <SEP> Material <SEP> active <SEP>% p /
<tb> conditioner <SEP> Polyquaternium-7 <SEP> 2.0
<tb><SEP> Hydroxypropyl <SEP> Chloride <SEP> Guar <SEP> 0.2
<tb><SEP> hydroxypropyltrimonium
<tb><SEP> acid <SEP> citric <SEP> 50% <SEP> 0,1
<tb><SEP> product <SEP> of <SEP> rexample <SEP> of <SEP> reference <SEP> 10.0
<tb> surfactant <SEP> Sodium <SEP> Laureth <SEP> Sulfate <SEP> 30.0
<tb> pearlester <SEP> Distearate <SEP> from <SEP> PEG-75 <SEP> 0.35
<tb><SEP> extract <SEP> from <SEP> Matricaria <SEP> 1.0
<tb><SEP> extract <SEP> of <SEP> lemon <SEP> 1.0
<tb> solubilizer <SEP> PEG-45 <SEP> oil <SEP> of <SEP> hydrogenated castor <SEP><SEP> 0.33 <SEP>
<tb><SEP> conservative <SEP> qs
<tb><SEP> perfume <SEP> that <SEP>
<tb><SEP> water <SEP> distilled <SEP> qs. <September>
<Tb>

Technical characteristics: Viscosity: 5300 mPa.s (Brookfield 20
rpm) pH: 4.8
EXAMPLE 8 EXTRA BRILLIANCE 2-IN-1 FOAM

<tb> INGREDIENTS <SEP> Material <SEP> active <SEP>% <SEP> P / F
<tb> conditioner <SEP> Polyquaternium-7 <SEP> 2,7
<tb><SEP> resin <SEP> fixative <SEP> Chloride <SEP> of Polymethacrylamidopropyl <SEP> 3,6
<tb><SEP> trimonium
<tb><SEP> surfactant <SEP> Polysorbate <SEP> 20 <SEP> 2,7
<tb><SEP> product <SEP> of <SEP> example <SEP> of <SEP> reference <SEP> 0.9
<tb><SEP> parlum <SEP> qs <SEP>
<tb><SEP> conservative <SEP> qs
<tb><SEP> Propane / Butane <SEP> 25:75 <SEP> 10.1
<tb><SEP> water <SEP> distilled <SEP> qs
<Tb>

Technical characteristics pH: 7.3
EXEMPT 9: CONCENTRATED SHAMPOO

<tb> INGREDIENTS <SEP> Material <SEP> active <SEP>%
<tb> A <SEP>
<tb><SEP> conditioner <SEP> Polyquaternium-2 <SEP> 1.0
<tb><SEP> B <SEP> water <SEP> distilled <SEP><SEP> 100 <SEP>
<tb> B
<tb><SEP> prodult <SEP> of <SEP> Fexample <SEP> of <SEP> reference <SEP> 15.0
<tb><SEP> surfactants <SEP> Tipa-Lauryl <SEP> Sulfate <SEP> 20.0
<tb><SEP> Disodium <SEP> Laureth <SEP> Sulfosuccinate <SEP> 8.0
<tb><SEP> conservative <SEP> qs
<tb><SEP> C
<tb><SEP> acid <SEP> citric <SEP> qs
<tb><SEP> chloride <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> qs
<Tb>
EXAMPLE 10 SHAMPOO CONDITIONER

products <SEP>% <SEP> p / p
<tb><SEP> A <SEP> Polyquaternium-10 <SEP> 0.5
<tb><SEP> conditioner <SEP> water <SEP> distilled <SEP> 41
<tb><SEP> B <SEP> sodium <SEP> laureth <SEP> sulfate <SEP> 40
<tb><SEP> water <SEP> distilled <SEP> 13.5
<tb><SEP> product <SEP> of <SEP> the <SEP> example of <SEP> reference <SEP> 4
<tb><SEP> conditioner <SEP> dimethicone <SEP> 1
<tb><SEP> conservative <SEP> 0.1
<tb><SEP> perfume <SEP> qs
<tb><SEP> hydroxide <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> (solution <SEP> 25%) <SEP> qs
<Tb>
Polyquaternium-10 is dissolved with stirring in distilled water. Sodium laureth sulfate, previously dissolved in water. is then added. The product of the reference example is added and the residual medium stirred until homogeneous. Dimethicone is
then dispersed slowly. The preservative and the perfume are then added. The viscosity
is adjusted as well as the pH by adding sodium hydroxide.

EXAMPLE II: SHAMPOO DEMELANT

<tb><SEP> products <SEP>% p! p <SEP>
<tb> product <SEP> of <SEP> the <SEP> example of <SEP> reference <SEP> 20
<tb><SEP> sodium <SEP> laureth <SEP> sulfate <SEP> (60%) <SEP> 10
<tb><SEP> lauramide <SEP> from <SEP> DEA <SEP> 4
<tb><SEP> Polyquaternium-10 <SEP> 1.5
<tb><SEP> disodium <SEP> EDTA
<tb><SEP> DMDM <SEP> hydantoin <SEP> qs
<tb><SEP> perfume <SEP> qs
<tb><SEP> dye <SEP> qs
<tb><SEP> conservative <SEP> ol <SEP>
<tb><SEP> acid <SEP> citric <SEP> qs <SEP> pH <SEP> 5.5
<tb><SEP> water <SEP> distilled <SEP> qs <SEP> 100
<Tb>
Polyquaternium - 10 is hydrated slowly in water. The product of Example 1 is then slowly added, followed by EDTA. the rest of the components are then added and the residual mixture heated to 45 ° C. The pH is adjusted with citric acid.

Claims (12)

 A cosmetic composition for hair or skin comprising a) from 0.1 to 30% of at least one amino acid-derived amphoteric surfactant having an inorganic salt content of 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to said surfactant; b) from 0.01 to 10% of an anionic, cationic, nonionic amphoteric conditioning agent, or a mixture; and c) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.  2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the amino acid derivative surfactant is derived from amino carboxylic or sulfonic acid and is selected from betaine, sulfobetaine, amidoalkylbetaine, amidoalkylsulfobetaine and amphoacetate surfactants.  3. Composition according to claim 2, in which the surfactant derived from amino carboxylic or sulphonic acid is chosen from betaines of formula 1,  R1 R2 R3NR4 C (O) O- (1)  sulfobetaines of formula 2:  R1R2R3NR4SO3- (2) amidoalkyl betaines of formula 3:  R1 (O) - NH R2 N (R3 R4) R5 C (O) O (3)  amidoalkylsulfobetaines of formula 4:  R1 (O) -NH R2 N (R3 R4) Rs SO3- (4) - the alkylamphoacetates of formula (5):

 formulas in which the radical R 1 represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical having from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, the radicals R2 and R3, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the radicals R4 and R5 being identical; or different represent an alkylene radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the radicals R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, represent an alkylene radical having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and M represents a hydrogen or an alkali metal atom or an ammonium group.  4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the surfactant having said content of inorganic salts is obtained by a dialysis method, in particular by electrodialysis, precipitation of inorganic salts or liquid-liquid extraction.  5. Composition according to claim 3, wherein the amino acid derivative surfactant is an alkylamphoacetate of formula (5) obtained by reaction of an aminoalkylalkanolamine of formula (7) Wherein R 1, R 6 and R 7 have the above meanings, with a cyanide of formula (8) XCN (8) wherein X represents a hydrogen or alkali metal atom, followed by an alkaline hydrolysis of the nitrile formed in the case where X is a hydrogen atom.  A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 2 to 10% of amino acid derivative surfactant having said content of inorganic salts.  7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the conditioning agent is chosen from hydrolysates of animal proteins and their salts; cationic copolymer conditioners of synthetic origin such as polyquaternium; cationic derivatives of polysaccharides; silicones and their derivatives; cationic surfactants.  8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising from 0.5 to 99.5% by weight of said vehicle.  9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the vehicle is chosen from water, alcohols, hydrocarbons, halogenated hydrocarbons, esters, ketones, volatile silicones and mixtures of at least two of these products.  10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising at least one of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants; sequestering, humectant or emollient agents; protective agents for the skin or the scalp such as water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, non-allergenic derivatives of animal or vegetable proteins, hydrocolloids and their derivatives.  11. A method of manufacturing a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises the steps of: a) purifying an amino acid derivative surfactant having an inorganic salt content greater than 1 % by weight, by a suitable separation technique to obtain a surfactant having a content of said salts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, and b) mixing the surfactant thus obtained with the conditioning agent and the vehicle, and optionally the other ingredients.  12. A method of manufacturing a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises the steps of: a) preparing a surfactant of formula (5) by reaction of an aminoalkylalkanolamine of formula ( 7) Wherein R 1, R 6 and R 7 have the above meanings, with a cyanide of formula (8) XCN (8) wherein X represents a hydrogen or alkali metal atom, followed by an alkaline hydrolysis of the nitrile formed in the case where X is a hydrogen atom, and b) mixing the surfactant having a salt content inorganic materials of 0.05 to 1% by weight thus obtained, with the conditioning agent and the carrier, and optionally the other ingredients.