FR2483226A1 - Natural colourants prepd. by extn. of Rubiaceae plants - of specified variety used in cosmetics, esp. hair dyeing - Google Patents

Abstract

Prodn. of natural colourant comprises extracting the plants or parts thereof selected from Rubia tinctorum, R. iberica, Coprosma areolate, C. Australis, C. lucida, C. parviflora, Morinda tinctorice, M. longiflora, Asperula adorata and Galium desypodum. The solvent extract is then concentrated. Pref. solvents are 1-3C alcohols, 3-5C ketones, 3-6C esters, 1-2C halohydrocarbons and mixtures of these or an aq. basic soln. The extract is pref. concentrated on a polyol, an oil or fat or a surfactant. The colorant is pref. used in cosmetic compsns. esp. contg. a metallic salt, particularly of Al or Fe. Used in cosmetic compsns. esp. for hair dyeing the colourants have the advantage of being natural and are also antibacterial.

Description

your present invention made at the Pierre Fabre Research Center relates to an all-natural hair dye consisting of an extract of Rubia tinctorum.

Rubia tinctorum, from the Rubiaceae family, is a herbaceous plant whose woody root was once used for textile dyeing. Nowadays this natural dye, competing with synthetic products, is no longer used for dyeing textile fibers.

The present invention relates to the use of an atoxic natural dye extract, and antibacterial, particularly suitable for the production of various cosmetic preparations such as shampoos, lotions, sprays, mud baths, creams and balms.

Other plants of the same family of Rubiaceae, are also suitable for the preparation of the hair dye object of the invention, particularly the Coprosma (Australis-, lucida, parviflora, areolata ...) the Morinda (tinctoria, longiflora .. .) Asperula odorata Galium dasypodum and Rubia iberica.

In accordance with the present invention, hair dyes based on
Rubia tinctorum are obtained from underground organs preferably by exhaustion with a sufficiently polar and volatile solvent such as alcohols, preferably methyl, ethyl or isopropyl optionally acidified with phosphoric acid or sulfuric acid, ketones preferably dimethyl ketone or chlorinated solvents such as methylene chloride or trichloro 1-1-1 ethane.

After a preconcentration of the solvent and addition of an esterified polyol or not, the evaporation is carried out until complete elimination of the extraction solvent.

According to the same process, the active substances of Rubia tinctorum can also be dissolved by oils or fats or surfactants compatible with cosmetic use.

An intermediate dosage of the active substances, before taking up in the carrier solvent allows the dilution of the extract to a standard titre, suitably chosen according to the expected effects.

The dyes according to the present invention are more particularly intended for the preparation of cosmetic compositions for hair dyeing, in particular shampoo, lotion, spray, mud bath. your usable cosmetic supports are of course all the supports known in this field.

According to a variant of this process, the initial beige color can be nuanced by adding small amounts of metal salts, in particular aluminum salt and iron salt.

The following examples are given as a non-limiting indication.

Example 1 1 kg of crushed Rubia tinctorum roots is extracted successively with 6 1 and 4 1 of methanol at 0.5 7. phosphoric acid at reflux for 1 h. After filtration and draining of the marc, the methyl juices are preconcentrated to 2 1 and then evaporated on approximately 2 1 of propanediol until complete elimination of the methanol.

The extract is then clarified, dosed in active principle and standardized to 1% in coloring principle for use in cosmetic specialties.

Example 2 100 g of ground bark of Coprosma Australis are extracted with 800 ml of acetone at reflux. After filtration and washing of the marc with 200 ml of solvent, the grouped filtrates are concentrated to 200 ml, diluted with 400 ml of water and acidified to pH 1 with phosphoric acid.

The coloring principle is extracted in liquid-liquid using 2 x 300 ml of trichlorethylene. After washing with water and drying over sodium sulfate, the solvent evaporated to dryness provides a reddish brown powder which is dissolved at a rate of 1% in a 30% aqueous solution of sodium lauryl sulfate.

Example 3 100 g of crushed roots and stems of Morinda umbellata are extracted with 600 ml of 0.5 N sodium hydroxide solution at room temperature. After filtration and washing of the marc with 200 ml of water, the grouped filtrates are acidified to a pH close to 1 with dilute phosphoric acid.

The coloring principle is extracted in liquid-liquid using 3 x 200 ml of methyl ethyl ketone. After washing with water, the solvent is concentrated to 200 ml and evaporated on 200 ml propanediol.

After clarification, the extract is dosed in active principle and standardized to 0.5 Z0 in coloring principle for use in cosmetic specialties.

By way of nonlimiting examples of cosmetic preparations according to the invention, 3 examples of shampoo formulation will be mentioned below.
Example A
Alkyl ether sodium sulfate * 10 7
Carboxy methyl sodium cellulose e 2 7.

2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3-diol ............ 0.25%
Perfume ...................................... 0.25%
Rubia extract standardized to 0.5% .............................. 2%
Distilled water ............................. QSP100 ml
Example B
Alkyl ether sodium and magnesium sulfate ............. 10%
Alkyl ethoxylated sorbate ............................ 5%
Bentone ..................................... 0.5%
Parahydroxy benzoate ........................ 0.15%
Perfume ...................................... 0.25%
Rubia extract standardized to 0.5% .................. 2%
Water ....................................... 100%
Example C
Alkyl ether sodium sulfate ............... 10%
Carboxy methyl cellulose sodium ............ 2% 2-Bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3-diol ............ 0.05%
Perfume ............................................... 0, 25%
Rubia extract standardized to 0.5% .......................... 2%
Ferric chloride ......................... 0.1%
Distilled water . . .. ... .. ... .. ... . QSP QoSPo 100 ml

Claims (12)

 rata and Gallium desypodum.  C. lucide and C. parviflora, Morinda tinctoria and M. Longiflora, Asperula odo  chosen from Rubia tinctorum, Riberica, Coprosma areolata, C. Australis,  CLAIMS 1 - Process for the preparation of a natural dye from plants characterized in that a) the plants or parts of plants of the Rubiaceae family are extracted  extraction solvent. b) the more or less purified dye is concentrated in anthraquinones from 2 - Process according to claim 1 characterized in that the plants used belong to the family of Rubiaceae. 3 - Process according to claims 1 and 2 characterized in that the plants used are of the genus Rubia. 4 - Process according to claims 1 to 2 characterized in that the plants used are of the genus Coprosma. 5 - Process according to claims 1 to 2 characterized in that the plants used are of the genus Morinda. 6 - Process according to claims 1 to 5 characterized in that the solvent used is chosen by C1 to C3 alcohols, C3 to C5 ketones, C3 to C6 esters, C1 to C2 halogenated hydrocarbons and their mixtures . 7 - Process according to claims 1 to 5 characterized in that the solvent used is a basic aqueous solution. 8 - Process according to claims 1 to 7 characterized in that the extraction solvent containing the coloring principles is concentrated on a polyol, an oil or an animal or vegetable fat, or a surfactant. 9 - Natural dye obtained by implementing the process according to claims 1 to 8. 10 - Cosmetic hair dye composition characterized in that it comprises a natural dye according to claim 9. 11 - Composition according to claim 10 characterized in that it further contains a metal salt. 12 - Composition according to claim 11 characterized in that the metal salt is an aluminum or iron salt.