ES2921365A1 - Active safety anchor device for self-protection in climbing (Machine-translation by Google Translate, not legally binding) - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention object is an active anchoring mechanism to increase security in the practice of self-protection escalation. Designed to cover great diversity of site in the rock and, especially, the holes, holes and other marginal reliefs, especially those of small and very small size that are currently not usable by other devices and/or builters. This mechanism is composed of a single cam block, a steel cable sling, a shooting trigger with control cables for handling and installation of the mechanism in the site of the rock and a terminal ring formed by the double cable of the sling and criminal with steel cap. (Machine-translation by Google Translate, not legally binding)

Description

Active safety anchor device for self-protection in climbing

Technical Sector:

Product Family: A63B29/##; Other consumer products. Sports equipment. Safety mechanism for self-protection in the practice of climbing and mountaineering. Field of Practical Application: The present invention relates to an active safety anchor mechanism to arrest a fall or to be used as a progression anchor in the sport of rock climbing in the self-protection mode.

State of the Art:

It is an invention to increase safety in the practice of the sport of climbing in the self-protection mode; It is a mechanism that acts as a safety anchor for fall arrest and as a support point for progression, when artificial climbing techniques are used. This mechanism is integrated into the group of active floating anchor devices with cams, for the practice of climbing.

Within this group of mechanical devices for self-protection in the practice of climbing, there are many designs and all of them base their application on the insertion and firm setting of a certain piece made up of one or more elements (generally metallic) in relief. or specific cavity that the rock can offer, where it is locked or fitted so that the forces derived from a load on the device generate the necessary friction to stabilize and stop a potential fall of the climber.

The object of the invention works by means of a single cam block that fits into a hole, crack or rock relief and expands by its own forced rotation with a cable sling under a load and also acts as a stabilizing spring and active fixator of the unloaded set. It also includes a handling system for its comfortable and practical use, which facilitates its installation and removal from the various locations that can be used.

This invention improves and increases the versatility of this type of device, by expanding the range of potential locations, making it possible to use other possible marginal anchor points that currently cannot be used usefully or efficiently by other self-locking mechanisms. -protection.

Background of the invention:

Search field (WIPO): International Classification (IPC): A63B29/##

US3877679, dated: 04/15/1975, Title: "Anchor device for mountain climbers", Inventor: Greg E Lowe.

GB2028455, dated: 03/05/1980; Title: "Multi-functional climbing chock” ; Inventor: Walters J A.

FR2563740, dated: 11/08/1985; Title:”Dispositif d'escalade pour alpinistes”; Inventor: Prause Bernt.

FR2567594, dated: 01/17/1986; Title: "Friend (automatic wedge)” ; Inventor: Telle Jean Marc.

US4645149, dated: 02/24/1987; Title:"Camming device for climbers” ; Inventor: Greg E Lowe.

EP0226829 dated: 07/01/1987; Title: "Climbing device”; Inventor: Steinacker, Paul-Heinrich

US4712754, dated: 12/15/1987; Title "Rock climbing anchor”, Inventor: Malcolm J. Brodie.

US6283426, dated: 09/04/2001; Title: "Spring-loaded camming nut” ; Inventors: Guthrie, Karl; Schwartz, Joseph.

US6375139, dated: 04/23/2002; Title: "Anchoring device for use in rock crevices and the like during rock climbing activities” ; Inventor: Murray, Seth; Southern, Ryan Tucker; Stamm, Shane; Wolos, Greg.

EP1552862, dated: 05/13/2005; Title: "Mechanical cam chok for climbing or mountaneering”; Inventor: Petzl Paul.

US20030019321, dated: 3/21/2006; Title: "Climbing cam device" ; Inventors: Apezetxea Mikel; Zabala Iñaki Xabier

ES2258940, dated: 09/01/2006; Title: "Safety anchor for climbing" ; Inventors: Telleria Gabiria Aitzol; Telleria Gabiria Andoitz

US20100207002, dated: 08/21/2010; Title: "Mechanical climbing aid of the cam type”; Inventor: Field, Jr. John E.

WO2020110081, dated: 06/04/2020; Title: "Anchoring and support climbing device” ; Inventor: Vianini, Matteo.

Description:

The present object of the invention is an active anchoring mechanism to increase safety in the practice of self-protection climbing. Designed to cover a wide variety of locations in the rock and, especially, holes, holes and other marginal reliefs, especially those of small and very small size that are currently not usable by other devices and/or inserts.

The present object of the invention is constituted by a single block of metal or machined plastic in the form of a double-sided cam with spiral geometric development, assembled in a very flexible braided stainless steel cable sling, which is inserted and runs through the piece. perimeter along its interior and the opposite exterior contour. This wire rope sling acts as a clamping spring, handle and anchor point, shifting the stress of a load by rotation to the main point of contact of the cam with the rock, where the greatest friction is applied. In addition, this device incorporates an insertion and extraction system for its placement, mounted around an ergonomic handle, and which consists of a semi-rigid plastic mobile trigger, with cable or synthetic fiber slings, which act directly on the block. of the cam, making it rotate at its upper end on the cable sling itself, to reduce the opening range to be installed or extracted from the rock and also to actively fix the entire assembly to the rock. It also incorporates a mobile spring that protects the cable sling in its contact with the rock and covers the back of the cable sling in the groove on the back of the cam block.

Exploded view, assembly and operation of the elements of the invention:.

1- A cam block (1), machined or injected in metal or high resistance plastic. This block is designed on two opposite logarithmic spirals (1c and 1f). In the rear part, it develops the shape on a larger spiral (1f), whose contact edges with the rock are polished to facilitate sliding over it and, in its front central part (1c), it is longitudinally grooved to receive and fit the rotation of the cable sling (2) in double. In the front part it develops on a smaller spiral and the point of contact of this with the rock has a transverse relief (1c) to increase its coupling and fixation in the rock texture. The front part is where the maximum point of friction of the cam block (1) with the rock is exerted (fig.3). In the rear part of the cam block, the movement that blocks the piece is developed (fig.3) and due to its geometry together with that of the front part, it maintains a constant angle between 11° and 20° of application of forces under loads . It also includes in its front part machined holes (1a and 1b) to insert the sling cable (2), holes (1d and 1e) to crimp the steel wire spring (3) for bending and protection and holes (1f and 1g) to receive and fix the ends of the control cables (10) of the pull trigger (9) to control bending and recovery.

2- A stainless steel cable (2) double crimped with a steel bushing (6) that is integrated double in the cam block (1), and that runs along its outer perimeter and that pulls the lower end of the cam block (1) when it receives a load and which also fulfills the following functions:

a) - Load sling (2); it receives the force of a load and transmits it to the cam block (1) which tends to rotate on itself due to the arrangement of the cable sling on its perimeter and interior.

b) - Stabilization spring; the cable sling itself (2) in a passive state forms an angle (Fig.2; 80°>90°) with respect to the cam block (1) which, when inserted in a suitable location, applies the bending force on the rock on the opposite side of the front face of the cam block (1) and stabilizes the assembly so that it is fixed in working order (fig.3).

c) - Addressing and activation of the axis of rotation of the cam block (1); the cable sling (2) acts as a rotation spring for the cam block (1) by going around it around the perimeter and pulling on the opposite side to the force vector, promoting and thus increasing the friction of the front part (1c) of the cam block (1) on the rock (fig.3;(a)).

d) - Ergonomic handle support (7) and handle trigger (9) for its placement and removal; the shank and end of the wire rope sling (2) act as support-handle to facilitate the handling of the system and its use in rock emplacements; the end of the cable forms a closed ring (8) by the crimp bushing (6) of the double cable itself (2). This ring (8) is the point of connection with the other elements of the safety chain (connector carabiner, strap and rope).

3- A bending and protection spring (3 and 4). Made with a single preformed steel wire (3) and a sheet of the same material (4) assembled in a single piece, which covers and fixes the surface on that sector of the cable sling (2) and whose measurements are adapted to the exact measurements of the rear channel (1g) of the body of the cam block (1). It is inserted under pressure into the machined holes (1e) for this purpose in the cam block (1), remaining mobile in these holes (1e) that act as supports for the axis of rotation of this piece (3 and 4). It has the same longitudinal development as the rear part of the cam block (1f) and in the position of maximum flexion, it covers this channel (1g) completely, protecting (Fig.3; b) the cable sling (2). At the lower end of this mobile spring (3), two eyelets (5) are formed (one on each side), which act as a guide for driving and passing the control cables (10) of the pull trigger (9) to control of bending The functions of this spring (3 and 4) are:

a) - The protection of the cable sling (2) as it passes through the rear part of the cam block (1), from direct contact and subsequent chafing with the rock (fig.3).

b) - To provide a lever point to force the bending of the cable sling (2) on the body of the cam block (1), so that this cable makes the exact development of the groove (1g) of the rear part of the cam body (1) and is completely integrated in it, when the pull trigger (9) is pulled to reduce the range of flexion-extension of the cam block (1).

4- Cable crimp bushing (6). Formed by a cylindrical and hollow piece of steel that presses and ties the ends of the cable sling (2), closing it at one point to create a ring (8) for hooking and connecting with the rest of the elements of the safety chain. , and to create and fix the end that pulls the cam block (1).

5- Ergonomic handle (7). Formed by a single body of flexible plastic material, solid and surrounding the cable sling (2), assembled or injected on it to integrate the entire assembly of the handle and cable in a single piece to facilitate and improve the handling of the mechanism, and integration and sliding of the pull trigger (9) to control bending.

6- Thermo-plastic cover made with a thermo-retractable tubular plastic piece to protect the cable of the terminal ring (8) of the sling (2), to receive the corresponding connector or element of the safety chain.

7- Pull trigger (9) to control bending and recovery, made of plastic. Formed by two pieces of semi-rigid plastic, which are assembled permanently and fixed on the handle (7), and are adjusted on it with a minimum clearance tolerance to facilitate sliding on it. This piece as a whole is prepared with holes and a lower relief to house and guide the control cables (10) for bending and recovering the cam block (1).

8- Cam block bending control cables (10). They are made up of a braided or non-braided wire, made of steel or synthetic fiber such as spectra or kevlar. Its function is to transmit the sliding movement of the trigger (9) to the cam block (1), in order to have control over its opening or bending range. They are inserted in the machined holes (1d) of the cam block (1) and in the pull trigger (9).

9- Crimp bushings (11a and 11b) of the control cables (10). They are spherical metal caps. These pieces block the ends of the control cables (10) as they pass through the machined holes (1d) of the cam body (1) in the recess on the outside of the machining (1d), they act by fixing the control cables ( 10) so that they are not released when they are pulled on the cam body (1).

Description of the drawings:

Figure 1: Right Side Front Lower Detail Isometric View

Figure 2: Right Side View

Figure 3: Detail of its installation and operation in a rock location with an exterior opening and/or interior development with a circular, oval or irregular shape.

Figure 4: Lower Left Side Isometric View

Figure 5; bottom view

Figure 6: Top front perspective view

Descriptive elements of the drawings:

1. Cam block

the . Machining of holes for insertion of the sling cable.

lb. Holes machined in the lower back of the cam block.

lc . Front part of the cam block, spiral shaped with machined relief.

ld . Machined holes for flex control cable insertion.

him. Machined holes for wire spring insertion.

lf. Back of cam block smooth and spiral shaped.

LG. Groove machining on the back of the cam block.

2. Wire rope sling, inserted into the cam block and finished at its opposite end in a ring.

3. Spring steel wire

4. Spring steel plate.

5. Eyelets on the spring steel wire.

6. Steel ferrule for cable crimping

7. Ergonomic handle.

8. End ring of the cable sling with thermo-plastic cover made of heat shrinkable plastic.

9. Flexion and recovery control pull trigger.

10. Cam block flex control cables.

11th & 11b. Control cable crimp bushings.

Claims (8)

1 . A new single cam mechanism with double cable sling; to be used in marginal cavities of the rock, as a safety anchor in the practice of self-protection climbing, specially designed for small and very small marginal sites with circular, cylindrical or oval opening or development, of little or no use in and which can also be used in any of the conventional locations for any other type of active or passive insert. two . A safety mechanism based on a metal or plastic block in the shape of a cam with spiral development on both opposite faces in contact with the rock; with the front face grooved with relief for greater fixation without load and the other opposite face (rear) smooth to facilitate the rotational sliding of the shaft on the rock. 3 . A simple cam mechanism comprising; a design of the machining of the cam block in its rotation perimeter and load axis for the double insertion of the sling of the fixing and load steel cable; with a longitudinal groove on the back to house the double sling; with some additional machining on the front part to facilitate the passage and adjustment of the double cable sling; and some machining for assembly and fixing of the handling springs. Four . A simple cam mechanism with a double cable sling, which integrates; a design of alignment and insertion of the wire rope sling in the cam block, with a certain angle between 80° and 90° with respect to the vertical axis of the cam block, and that provides the same wire rope sling with the ability to function as an active fixing spring of the mechanism in the location of the rock. 5 . A design for mounting a sling made of flexible, braided steel cable that is inserted in double and runs through the cam block in its antero-posterior perimeter of rotation, crimped in its lower third, forming a ring of closed cable also in double , and which works together as a support for the handling handle and as an anchor point for the rest of the safety chain. 6 . A simple cam mechanism that includes; a piece of spring, which fits into the rear recess of the cam block, formed with wire and sheet steel, inserted into the machined holes in the rear-upper part of the cam block, on which it rotates holding the cable sling steel in cam block groove; This spring incorporates eyelets at its lower end for the passage and guidance of the handling trigger trigger cables. This piece adjusts and eases the angle of the wire rope sling flexing on the back of the cam block when pulling the trigger pull and also serves to protect the wire rope sling from rubbing against rock. 7 . A simple cam mechanism with; a flexible plastic handle injected over the fitted and assembled cable sling, which provides ergonomics and a certain rigidity to the cable covered with this handle to facilitate the exact rotation of the cam block bending over the cable. Covering the entire cable and the ferrule or pressure bushing of the steel cable except the section covered by the steel spring. 8 . A simple cam mechanism with; a semi-rigid plastic shooter trigger, made up of two pressure-jointed pieces that are mounted around the injected plastic handle and have enough slack to slide over it; This pull trigger directs the control steel or synthetic fiber cables, which pass through the eyelets of the steel spring and are inserted into the machined holes in the rear-bottom part of the cam block and serve for manipulation and control of flex and cam block folding extension.