ES2335636B1 - COSMETIC OR DERMOPHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITION OF MIXED MICELAS. - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed lipid-surfactant micelles that reconstitute in the stratum corneum of the skin and its use for treatment and / or care of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails.

Description

Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles.

Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to compositions Cosmetic or dermopharmaceuticals of mixed micelles phospholipid-surfactant where mixed micelles are reconstitute in mixed liposomes in the stratum corneum of the skin encapsulating water, and its use for the treatment and / or care of those conditions, disorders and / or pathologies of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails associated with excessive water loss and / or the alteration of the barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails.

Background of the invention

The stratum corneum of the skin is formed by thin flat cells, corneocytes, separated by layers lipid Each corneocyte consists of a set of filaments of Keratin inside an insoluble protein shell. In the part outer of this shell, and chemically bound to proteins, it find long chain ceramides that interact with the layers intercellular lipids, which together gives a structure hydrophobic Additionally, in the stratum corneum are both intracellularly as extracellularly molecules identified as "natural hydration factor" (NMF) that by its nature Hygroscopic serve to retain water.

The main function of this structure is that of the skin's external barrier, and as a barrier, this structure of corneocytes and lipids serves to regulate the loss of transdermal water. The loss of transdermal water through the stratum corneum of the skin is a fact inherent to the normal functioning of the stratum corneum, since it is necessary to hydrate the outermost layers of the stratum corneum to maintain its flexibility, and it is through these layers where Water loss occurs. Having to hydrate the outermost layers of the stratum corneum generates a water gradient within the stratum corneum, where the percentage of water varies from less than 20% from the outermost layers to more than 40% in the innermost layers of the stratum corneum (" Bioengineering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum ", 1994, 3-12).

When the loss of transdermal water increases there is a dehydration of the skin that is reflected in a decrease of approximately 10% in the percentage of water in the layers of the stratum corneum and as a result a dry skin appears, with less flexibility and in which the peeling.

It has been shown that the disturbance of the structure and composition of the stratum corneum affects the function barrier that protects the body from chemical, physical aggressions and of the loss of transdermal water. Among the factors that contribute to skin dehydration are age and environmental conditions such as cold, heat and low relative humidity.

For the restoration of a hydrated skin, different recovery strategies for dry skin, such as occlusion, emolliency and hydration, are known in the state of the art. Occlusion consists of reducing water loss through damaged skin and / or protecting healthy skin through the use of mineral or vegetable oils, lanolines, silicones, artificial mixtures of skin lipids or film-forming substances. However, initially these substances increase the diffusion coefficient of water through the epidermis so that at the beginning of the application the rate of transdermal water loss increases. The emolliency tries to increase the flexibility and softness of the stratum corneum and hydration seeks to increase the water content of the stratum
horny.

Another factor that contributes to the loss of transdermal water is the use of surfactants in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions. It is known in the state of the art that surfactants are commonly used in the solubilization of membranes, and in particular of the stratum corneum, by the formation of mixed lipid-surfactant micelles ( Colloid Polym. Sci . 2001, 279, 909-915; Colloid Polym. Sci . 2002, 280, 352-357).

The proportion of ceramides in the lipids of the stratum corneum plays an important role in the resistance of these lipids to be solubilized by surfactants and therefore in the maintenance of the structure of the stratum corneum ( Colloids Surfaces A: Physicochem. Eng. Aspects 2000, 162, 131-140; International Journal of Pharmaceutics 1999, 187, 231-241). Thus, for example, the treatment of the stratum corneum with octylglucoside leads to a partial solubilization of the stratum corneum that increases with the concentration of octylglycoside to its critical micellar concentration, where the solubilized fraction is predominantly made up of proteins and to a lesser extent lipids, and that This treatment leads to a disintegration of the stratum corneum ( Colloids Surfaces A: Physicochem. Eng. Aspects 1997, 123-124, 415-424).

If these mixed lipid-surfactant micelles are diluted by increasing the concentration of lipids, larger vesicles are formed where the size of the vesicles depends on the surfactant used ( J. Phys. Chem. B 2001, 105 ( 40 ), 9879-9886) . It is also known that this dissolution and formation of vesicles can be described as a series of equilibrium structures of vesicles, layered layers and mixed micelles where the equilibria shift depending on the relative concentration of surfactants and lipids ( Biochemistry 1988, 27, 1695- 1703).

While surfactant treatment has been used to induce changes in the stratum corneum, topical application of phospholipid liposomes has been used to improve skin characteristics and as a stratum.
protection theory of the stratum corneum against subsequent treatment with surfactants ( Micron 2001, 32, 201-205).

It is also known in the state of the art that the treatment of a stratum corneum with a low amount of lipids with liposomes formed with the corneal stratum lipids does not recover the structure of the stratum corneum and structural changes are observed in the lipid sheets. Among these changes is the formation of new isolated vesicles in the lipid sheets, and this formation of vesicles could be associated with a restoration of the damaged intercellular lipid structure ( Colloids Surfaces A: Physicochem. Eng. Aspects 2001, 182, 35-42 ).

The international patent application WO 99/22703 A1 describes formulations for application to mucous membranes that comprise dispersions of phospholipid micelles containing a biologically active agent, where phospholipids adhere to the mucous membranes and release the biologically active agent in a way sustained over time. These formulations may contain also a surfactant. However, it is not indicated in this document. that said micellar dispersions can cross the stratum corneum if applied topically to the skin.

Patent application ES 2070778 A1 describes that when non-ionic surfactants are added from hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) between 10 and 12 in surfactant / phospholipid ratios of the order of 90/1 to 150/1 a cosmetic compositions, solubilization of phospholipid liposomes in said cosmetic compositions. In This document also describes the incorporation of principles assets and additives, although no information is provided on the penetration capacity of the liposomes of the composition.

On the other hand, it is also known in the state of the art that phosphatidylcholine liposomes are capable of penetrating the corneal stratum by means of some mechanism induced by octylglycoside, since vesicles of a size of 190 nm are observed within the stratum corneum, when the intralaminar distance between the lipids of the stratum corneum is only 5-6 nm ( Langmuir 2002, 18 (18), 7002-7008). In this same document it is hypothesized that the presence of these 190 nm size vesicles is due to a reconstitution by dilution of phosphatidylcholine-octylglycoside micelles in phosphatidylcholine vesicles in the intercellular lipid region of the stratum corneum.

There are numerous publications in the state of the art, such as US 5128139 A that describe topically applied compositions of dispersions of unilamellar or multilamellar liposomes of phospholipids encapsulating cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical assets. The use of liposomes that increase skin hydration is also known ( Cosmetic and Toiletries 1991, 106, 79-93). However, the penetration capacity of these liposomes in the skin is very low and only a very low percentage of liposomes perform an occlusion effect by adhesion to the outermost layers of the skin.

According to the prior art, it is note that surfactants solubilize membranes, and in particular the stratum corneum membrane, and that in this way contribute to The loss of transdermal water. In addition, the use of surfactants in the cosmetic industry it is widely widespread for solubilize cosmetic ingredients and / or increase the penetration of these through the stratum corneum, with which its use causes a Increase in transdermal water loss.

So, there is a need to find cosmetic compositions comprising surfactants that do not contribute to increase the loss of transdermal water, not reduce the skin's barrier function, and facilitate penetration of liposomes and / or cosmetic ingredients or Dermopharmaceuticals through the stratum corneum.

Description of the invention

The present invention provides a solution to the problem mentioned above. Surprisingly it has been discovered in the present invention a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition comprising a dispersion of mixed micelles phospholipid-surfactant and the use of this composition for the treatment and / or care of those conditions, disorders and / or pathologies of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails associated with excessive loss of water and / or alteration of the Barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails.

Therefore a first aspect of the present invention refers to a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition comprising a dispersion of mixed micelles phospholipid-surfactant, where these mixed micelles they are reconstituted in liposomes in the stratum corneum of the skin encapsulating water

The term "mixed micelle" refers to the present invention to an approximately spherical aggregate formed by a homogeneous monolayer of one or more surfactants and one or more phospholipids in a polar solvent where the polar regions of surfactants and phospholipids are oriented towards the solvent and constitute the outer face of the micelle while apolar regions of surfactants and phospholipids They form the inner face of the micelle.

The term "liposome" refers to the present invention to an approximately spherical aggregate formed by at least a double or bilayer layer of at least one phospholipid where the layers are very close and the apolar regions of each layer are oriented towards the apolar regions of the other layer lipid, and thus the polar regions of phospholipids they form the inner and outer face of the double layer or bilayer. The Liposomes of the present invention may have a single bilayer and be they structure as unilamellar liposomes, or they can have from 2 to 6 bilayers, concentric or not, of lipids, preferably 2 to 4 concentric bilayers, and then they are organized as liposomes multilaminar onion type, or they can have 2 to 6 bilayers and they are organized as unilamellar liposomes that comprise 1 to 5 smaller unilamellar liposomes.

In a particular embodiment, the liposomes are mixed liposomes formed by molecules of one or more lipids and of one or more surfactants homogeneously distributed in each of double layers or bilayers and with the structures described formerly for liposomes.

In a particular embodiment, the phospholipid surfactant mixed micelles surfactant is selected from the group consisting of non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof. Preferably the surfactants of the composition of the present invention are non-ionic surfactants and / or amphoteric surfactants, more preferably they are selected from the group consisting of alkyl glycosides with an alkyl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, alkyl maltosides with an alkyl group which it has from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, ethoxylated alkylphenols with an alkyl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and from 5 to 30 units of ethylene oxide, alkylphenylpolyoxyethylene ethers with an alkyl group having from 6 to 24 atoms of carbon, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with an alkyl group having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, poloxamers, polysorbates, sorbitan esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, castor oils, fatty alcohol and polyoxyethylene ethers, acid alkanolamides fatty, amine oxides, alkyl betaines with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, acylamido betaines, alkyl ilsulfobetains with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, derivatives of glycine, digitonin and mixtures thereof. More preferably, they are selected from the group consisting of octylglucoside, decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, octylfructoside, dodecylmaltoside, decylmaltoside, nonoxynol-9, polyethylene glycol p - (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenyl ether, palmityl alcohol, polyoxyl, polyoxyl, polyoxyl, polyoxyl, polyoxyl, polyoxyl, polyoxyl, polyoxyl, polyoxyl, alcohol polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polyethylene glycol stearate 40, polyethylene glycol stearate 50, polyethylene glycol 100 stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether, cocamide monoethanolamine, cocamide diethanolamine, cocamidaelamine amine, cocamidaelamine amine, cocamidaelamine amine, cocamidaelamine amine, cocamidaelamine amine, cocamidaelamine amine, cocamidaelamine amine, cocamidaelamine amine, cocamidaelamine, amine, amine , tetradecilbetaína, cocoilbetaína, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, N -2-hidroxietilglicinato of cocoilamidoetilo and N -2-hidroxietilcarboxiglicinato of cocoilamidoetilo and mixtures thereof.

In another particular embodiment, the phospholipid of the micelles of the composition of the present invention is a natural or synthetic phosphoglyceride and preferably selected from the group consisting of phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidic acid, phosphatidylglycerol, diphosphatidylglycerol, phosphorylcholine, Cardiolipin, its fatty acid esters, products of hydrogenation and mixtures thereof, such as for example and meaningless Limiting egg, soy or sunflower lecithins. Between acids fatty acids are found for example and without limiting sense acids stearic, palmitic, oleic, myristic, lauric and all those saturated or unsaturated fatty acids known in the state of the technique.

In another particular embodiment, the relationship in surfactant / phospholipid weight in the micelles of the composition of the The present invention varies between 150/1 and 1/1, preferably between 50/1 and 2/1, and more preferably between 10/1 and a 4/1.

In another particular embodiment, the diameter of The micelles of the composition of the present invention is less than 35 nm, preferably it is less than 20 nm, and more preferably it is less than 10 nm.

In another particular embodiment, the diameter of The reconstituted liposomes vary between 80 nm and 700 nm, preferably between 120 nm and 350 nm, and more preferably between 160 nm and 250 nm.

In another particular embodiment, the percentage of Water encapsulated in the reconstituted liposomes varies between 5% and 95% by weight with respect to the total weight of the liposome, preferably between 15% and 75% by weight, and more preferably between 30% and 60% by weight.

In another particular embodiment, the micelles mixed of the composition of the invention further comprise at least one lipid, selected from the group consisting of glycerides, sterols, prenoles, glycolipids, ceramides, glycosphingolipids, fatty acids, and mixtures thereof, such as for example and meaningless limiting cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, beta-sitosterol, ergosterol, phytosterols, triglycerides, 1,2-diacylglycerol, phytosphingosines, Stearylamine or mixtures thereof.

In another particular embodiment, the solvent of the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of the present invention is any solvent or solvent mixture conventional cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically acceptable such such as and without limitation water, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxyglycol, polyethylene glycol and / or a combination thereof.

It is known for the state of the art, that the solubility of mixed micelles phospholipid-surfactant is different for each solvent varying depending on the nature of the phospholipid and of the critical micellar concentration of the surfactant in the solvent or solvent mixture. Therefore, the maximum concentration of mixed micelles dispersed in cosmetic compositions or Dermopharmaceuticals of the present invention depend on the factors previous.

In another particular embodiment, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of the invention further comprises a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant. The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant can be dispersed in the composition or encapsulated in the mixed micelles, and once the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant can be reconstituted in liposomes, it can be left outside the liposome, or inside the liposome in the lipid bilayer and / or in the polar nucleus of the liposome. Among the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants contained in the mixed micelles of the composition of the invention are the adjuvants commonly employed in compositions for the treatment and / or care of skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails such as for example and nonsense limiting, skin conditioners such as cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants that recover and / or maintain the skin's barrier function, hydrolytic epidermal enzymes, alphahydroxy acids, betahydroxy acids, descaling agents, stimulating agents or inhibitors of melanin synthesis, bleaching agents or depigmenting agents, pro-pigmenting agents, self-tanning agents, anti-aging agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, organic solvents, liquid propellants, vitamins, pigments or dyes, dyes, gelling polymers, thickeners, softeners, anti-wrinkle agents, dermaking agents, agents capable of reducing ot rat bags under the eyes, exfoliating agents, anti-itching agents, agents for the treatment and / or care of sensitive skin, firming agents, astringent agents, lipolysis stimulating agents, anti-cellulite agents, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, analgesic agents , agents that act on the metabolism of cells, agents intended to improve the dermis-epidermis junction, agents that induce hair growth, agents that inhibit or retard hair growth, muscle relaxants, preservatives, perfumes, odor absorbers, chelating agents , plant extracts, essential oils, marine extracts, agents from a biofermentation process, mineral salts, cellular extracts and sunscreens (photoprotective agents of organic or mineral nature active against ultraviolet rays A and / or B) among others and / or their mixtures, provided they are physically and chemically compatible with the other components of the composition and especially with the phospholipid-surfactant mixed micelles contained in the composition of the present invention. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants that recover and / or maintain the skin's barrier function are for example moisturizers, moisture-retaining substances, moisturizers, emollients, emulsifying agents, lipid synthesis stimulating agents and stratum corneum components (ceramides, fatty acids, proteins, etc.), 5α-reductase inhibitors, lysyl- and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitors, antioxidant agents, free radical scavenging agents and / or atmospheric anti-pollution agents, anti- glycation, antimicrobial agents, fungicidal agents, fungistatic agents, bactericidal agents, bacteriostatic agents, agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or capable of inhibiting or preventing their degradation, such as, for example and without limiting sense, agents that stimulate synthesis of collagen, elastin synthesis stimulating agents, l stimulating agents to decorin synthesis, laminin synthesis stimulating agents, defensin synthesis stimulating agents, chaperone synthesis stimulating agents, hyaluronic acid synthesis stimulating agents, aquaporin synthesis stimulating agents, stimulating agents fibronectin synthesis, matrix metalloprotease inhibitors, collagen degradation inhibitors, elastin degradation inhibitors, serine protease inhibitors such as leukocyte elastase or cathepsin G, fibroblast proliferation stimulating agents, stimulating agents of keratinocyte proliferation, adipocyte proliferation stimulating agents, keratinocyte differentiation stimulating agents, adipocyte differentiation stimulating agents, angiogenesis stimulating agents, glycosaminoglycan synthesis stimulating agents, age DNA repair agents, DNA protective agents, anti-stretch marks, sebum production regulators, healing agents, healing agents, re-epithelizing agents, cytokine growth factors, agents acting on the circulation capillary and / or microcirculation and / or mixtures thereof. Also, the nature of said additional adjuvants should not unacceptably alter the benefits of the mixed micelle composition of the present invention. The nature of said additional adjuvants can be synthetic or of natural origin, such as plant extracts, or come from a biofermentation process. Additional examples can be found described in CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook , Eleventh Edition 2006.

Another embodiment of the present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles comprising a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one compound selected from the group of cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants that recover and / or maintain the barrier function of the skin formed by humectants, moisture-retaining substances, moisturizers, emollients, emulsifying agents and mixtures thereof, such as and without limitation, glycerin, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, Glycereth-26, Sorbeth-30, panthenol, trehalose and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, pyroglutamic acid and its derivatives, serine, proline, glutamate, arginine, urea, creatine, glucosamines, lactic acid, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, polyglyceryl acrylate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan, N - ( 2-hydroxyethyl) acetamide, saccharide isomerate, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, inositol, xylitol, 2-pyrrolidone-5- sodium carboxylate, N- lauroyl-pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, N- lauroyl-L-lysine, N- alpha-benzoyl-L-arginine, soluble collagen, dibutylphthalate, gelatin, stearic alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, glyceryl monostearate, propan-1,2 -diol, butan-1,3-diol, mink oil, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, stearic acid, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleic alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan- 2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, dimethylpolysiloxane, di- n- butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, polyethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, castor oil, alcoolin acetylated, petroleum, mineral oil, butyl myristate, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, isopropyl linoleate, decyl oleate or myristyl myristate among others.

Additionally, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise from among cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with healing and / or re-epithelial activity or effectively as adjuvants in healing and / or re-epithelialization processes, for example and without limitation, the extracts of Centella asiatica, Rosa moschata, Echinacea angustifolia, Symphytum officinale, Equisetum arvense, Hyperícum perforatum, Mimosa tenuiflora, Aloe vera , Polyplant® Epithelizing [INCI: Officinal : , Hypericum Perforatum, Chamomilla Recutita, Rosmarinus Officinalis ] marketed by Provital, Cytokinol® LS 9028 [INCI: Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Lysine HCI] marketed by Laboratories Serobiologiques / Cognis or Deliner® [INCI: Zea May (Corn) Kernel Extract ] marketed by Colet ica / Engelhard among others, and / or in addition a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one synthetic compound, extract or product from a biofermentation procedure with healing and / or re-epithelial activity or effectively as an adjuvant in healing processes and / or re-epithelization such as, for example and without limitation, cadherins, integrins, selectins, hyaluronic acid receptors, immunoglobulins, fibroblast growth factor, connective tissue growth factor, platelet-derived growth factor, vascular endothelial growth factor, epidermal growth, insuliniform growth factor, keratinocyte growth factors, colony stimulating factors, beta growth transforming factors, alpha tumor necrosis factor, interferons, interleukins, matrix metalloproteinases, protein tyrosine phosphatases receptors, Antarcticine® [ INCI: Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract] or Decorinyl® [INCI: Tripeptide-10 Citrulline], marketed by Lipotec, among others.

Additionally, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise from the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with stimulating activity of the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or capable of inhibiting or preventing its degradation, such as collagen synthesis stimulating agents, elastin synthesis stimulating agents, decorin synthesis stimulating agents, laminin synthesis stimulating agents, synthesis stimulating agents of defensins, chaperone synthesis stimulating agents, hyaluronic acid synthesis stimulating agents, aquaporin synthesis stimulating agents, fibronectin synthesis stimulating agents, matrix metalloprotease inhibiting agents, d inhibiting agents and collagen degradation, elastin degradation inhibitors, serine protease inhibitors such as leukocyte elastase or cathepsin G, fibroblast proliferation stimulating agents, keratinocyte proliferation stimulating agents, keratinocyte differentiation stimulating agents , adipocyte proliferation stimulating agents, adipocyte differentiation stimulating agents, angiogenesis stimulating agents, glycosaminoglycan synthesis stimulating agents, DNA repairing agents and / or DNA protective agents, such as without limitation extracts of Centella asiatica, Saccharomyces cerivisiae, Solanum tuberosum, Rosmarinus officinalis, Vaccinium angustifolium , algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera, Padina pavonica , soybean plant extract, malt, flax, sage, red clover, kakkon, lupine extract, lupine , corn, levad extract ura, beech sprout extract, legume seed extract, plant hormone extract such as gibberellins, auxins or cytokinins among others, or saline zooplankton extract among others and / or also a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one compound synthetic, extract or product from a biofermentation procedure with activity that stimulates the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or capable of inhibiting or preventing its degradation, for example and without limitation, the milk fermentation product with Lactobacillus Bulgaricus , Asiaticosides and their derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives, cinnamic acid and its derivatives, Matrixyl® [INCI: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3], Matrixyl® 3000 [INCI: Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide] or Biopeptide CL ™ [ INCI: Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Propylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide] marketed by Sederma, Antarcticine [INCI: _ Pseudo monas ferment extract] marketed by Lipotec, Drieline® PF [INCI: Yeast Betaglucan] marketed by Alban Muller, Phytovityl C® [INCI: Aqua, Zea Mays Extract] marketed by Solabia, Collalift® [INCI: Hydrolyzed Malt Extract] marketed by Coletica / Engelhard, Phytocohesine® PSP [proposed INCI: Sodium Beta-Sitosterol Sulfate] marketed by Seporga, minerals such as calcium among others, retinoids and their derivatives, isoflavonoids, carotenoids, in particular lycopene, pseudopeptides, retinoids and their derivatives such as retinol or palmitate retinyl among others, or heparinoids among others.

Additionally, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise from the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with firming, redensifying and / or restructuring activity such as for example without limiting sense , Malpighia punicitolia, Cynara scolymus, Gossypium herbaceum, Aloe Barbadensis, Panicum miliaceum, Morus nigra, Sesamum indicum, Glycine soja, Triticum vulgare, Pronalen® Refirming HSC [INCI: Triticum vulgare, Silybum Marianum, Glycine soy, Equisetum Arvense, Alchemilla Vulgaris, Medicago Sativa, Raphanus Sativus ] or Polyplant® Refirming [INCI: Coneflower, Asiatic Centella, Fucus, Fénugreek] marketed by Provital, Lanablue® [INCI: Sorbitol, Algae Extract] marketed by Atrium Innovations, Pepha® Nutrix [INCI: Natural Nutrition Factor] marketed by Pentaphar m, or plant extracts containing isoflavones and / or at least one synthetic compound, extract or biofermentation product with firming, redensifying and / or restructuring activity as for example and without limiting sense Biopeptide EL ™ [INCI: Palmitoyl Oligopeptide] , Biopeptide CL ™ [INCI: Palmitoyl Oligopeptide], Vexel® [INCI: Water (Aqua), Propylene Glycol, Lecithin, Caffeine, Palmitoyl Carnitine], Matrixyl® [INCI: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3], Matrixyl® 3000 [ INCI: Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide] or Bio-Bustyl ™ [INCI: Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Rahnella Soy Protein Ferment, Water (Aqua), Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, PEG-8, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide] marketed by Sederma, Dermosaccharides® HC [INCI: Glycerin, Water (Aqua), Glycosaminoglycans, Glycogen], Aglycal® [INCI: Mannitol, Cyclodextrin, Glycogen, Aratostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract], Cytokinol® LS [INCI: Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydrolyzed Yeast HCL] or Firmiderm® LS9120 [INCI: Terminalia Catappa Leaf extract, Sambucus Negra Flower Extract, PVP, Tannic Acid] marketed by Laboratoires Serobiologiques / Cognis, Liftline® [INCI: Hydrolyzed wheat protein], Raffermine® [INCI: Hydrolyzed Soy Flour] or Ridulisse C® [Hydrolyzed I am Protein] marketed by Silab, Serilesine® [INCI: hexapeptide-10] or Decorinyl ™ [INCI: Tripeptide-10 Citrulline] marketed by Lipotec, Ursolisome® [INCI: Lecithin, Ursolic Acid, Atelocollagen, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate] or Collalift® [INCI: Hydrolyzed Malt Extract] marketed by Coletica / Engelhard, Syn®-Coll [INCI: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5] marketed by Pentapharm, Hydriame® [INCI: Water (Aqua), Glycosaminoglycans, Sclerotium Gum] marketed by Atrium Innovations or IP2000 [INCI: Dextran, Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2] marketed by Instití Europeen de Biologie Cellulaire among others.

In addition, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise from among cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with anti-glycation activity as for example and without limiting sense. Extracts of Vaccinium angustifolium among others, and / or also a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one synthetic compound, extract or product from a biofermentation procedure with anti-glycation activity such as, for example, and without limiting sense ergotioneína and its derivatives , lysine, Aldenine® [INCI: Hydrolized Wheat Protein, Hydrolized Soy Protein, Tripeptide-1] or Eyeseryl® [INCI: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5] marketed by Lipotec, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, resveratrol or 3.3 ', 5.5 '-tetrahydroxiestilbeno among others.

The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise, among cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants, a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with NO-synthase inhibitory activity, for example and nonsense Limiting plant extracts Vitis vinifera, Olea europaea or Gingko biloba among others.

Also, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise from among cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with free radical capture and / or anti-contamination activity. atmospheric, for example and without limitation, tea extract, olive leaf extract, Rosmarinus officinalis extract or Eichhornia crassipes extract and / or at least one synthetic compound, extract or product from a biofermentation procedure with radical capture activity free and / or anti-air pollution such as, for example and without limitation, benzopyrenes, heavy metals such as cobalt, mercury, cadmium or nickel, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, in particular tocopherol acetate, ascorbyl glycoside , phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, tannic acid and ellagic acid, gallocatecol, anthocyanins, chlorogenic acid, stilbenes, idols, amino acid derivatives containing cysteine, in particular N- acetylcysteine, ergotionein, S-carboxymethylcysteine, chelating agents, in particular EDTA or ethylenediamines, carotenoids, bioflavonoids, ubiquinonaids , idebenone, catalase, dismutase superoxide, lactoperoxidase, peroxidase glutathione, glutathione, benzylidenal camphor, pidolates, lignans, melatonin, oryzanol, Aldenine® [INCI: Hydrolized wheat protein, hydrolized soy protein, tripeptide-1] or Lipochroman-6 [INCI : Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol] marketed by Lipotec among others.

Additionally, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise from the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with 5α-reductase inhibitory activity as per example and without limiting sense Cinnamommum zeylanicum extract , Laminaria saccharina, Spiraea ulmaria, Serenoa repens , plant extracts Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salviaymusinalinalis, Salviaus officinalis, Salvia officinalicus, Salvia thymus officinalis, Salvia thymus officinalis, Salvia officinalis, Thirsty of plants of the genus Silybum, extract of plants containing sapogenins and in particular extract of Dioscorea plants among others and / or also a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one synthetic compound, extract or product from a biofermentation process n with 5α-reductase inhibitory activity such as for example and without limitation retinoids and in particular retinol, sulfur and its derivatives, zinc salts and in particular lactate, gluconate, pidolate, carboxylate, salicylate or zinc cysteate, chloride of selenium, vitamin B6, pyridoxine, capriloyl glycine or sarcosine among others.

Also, the cosmetic composition or Mixed micellar dermopharmaceutical of the present invention can understand between cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least a synthetic compound with lysyl- and / or inhibitory activity prolyl hydroxylase as for example and meaningless limiting 2,4-diaminopyrimidine 3-oxide or 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine 3-oxide among others.

The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of the invention may also additionally contain from among cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one bactericidal and / or bacteriostatic agent and / or a fungicidal agent and / or a fungistatic agent, as per example and without limitation caprililglicol, imidazolinidyl urea, methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate [INCI: methylparaben], ethyl 4-hydroxybenzoate [INCI: ethylparaben], propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate [INCI: propylparaben], 4-hydroxybenzoate [ : butylparaben], isobutyium 4-hydroxybenzoate [INCI: isobutylparaben], 1,3-bis (hydroxymethyl) -5,5-dimethylimidazolidino-2,4-dione [INCI: DMDM Hydantoin], benzyl 4-hydroxybenzoate [INCI: benzylparaben], benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, formic acid, propionic acid, 2-bromo-2-nitropropan-1,3-diol, 3- p- chlorophenoxy-1,2-propanediol [ INCI: chlorphenesin], dichlorobenzyl alcohol, iodopropyl butylcarbamate / benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, chlorhexidine, ethanol, isopropanol, methanol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerin laurate, caprilato, carylate Glycerin caprate, benzoyl peroxide, chlorhexidine gluconate, triclosan, phenoxyethanol, terpinen-4-ol, α-terpineol, resorcinol, stimicin, erythromycin, neomycin, clindamycin and its esters, tetracyclines, metronidazole, azelatinic acid, tolhetic acid, tolleic acid , chlortrimazole, ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione, zinc oxide, isothiazolinones, selenium sulfide, benzylhemiformal, boric acid, sodium borate, 6,6-dibromo-4,4-dichloro-2,2'-methylenediphenol [INCI: bromochlorophene ], 5-Bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, sodium tosylcioramide [INCI: chloramine T], chloroacetamide, p- chloro- m -cresol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol [INCI: chlorophene], dimethyl oxazolidine , dodecyldimethyl-2-phenoxyethyl ammonium bromide [INCI: domiphen bromide], 7-ethylbicyclooxazolidine, hexetidine, glutaraldehyde, N - (4-chlorophenyl) - N - [4-chloro-3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] -urea [INCI: cloflucarban], 2-hydroxy-4-isopropyl-2 , 4,6-cycloheptatrien-1-one [INCI: Hinokitiol], isopropylmethylphenol, mercury salts, aluminum salts, nisin, phenoxyisopropanol, o-phenylphenol, 3-heptyl-2 - [(3-heptyl-4- iodide] methyl-3 H -thiazol-2-ylidene) methyl] -4-methylthiazolium [INCI: Quaternium-73], silver chloride, sodium iodate, thymol, undecylenic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, lactoperoxidase, glucose oxidase, lactoferrin , and / or a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one natural extract or essential oil with bactericidal, bacteriostatic, fungicidal and / or intrinsic fungistatic activity such as for example and without limitation the extracts of Allium sativum, Calendula officinalis, Chamomilla recutita, Purple Echinacea, Hyssopus Officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia or oil d The tea tree among others.

Also, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise from among cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one synthetic compound or combination of synthetic compounds with descaling activity such as for example and without limiting sense. alphahydroxy acids, and in particular glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid and / or mandelic acid, among others, betahydroxy acids, for example and without limitation salicylic acid and its derivatives, as well as the use of urea and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes, resveratrol, N- acetylglucosamine, jasmonic acid and its derivatives, cinnamic acid, gentisic acid, oligofucoses, detergents and / or enzymes, for example and without limitation, subtylains, papain or bromelain or at least one extract or combination of extracts of saphora japan , papaya, pineapple, squash or sweet potato among others.

Also, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise from the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one analgesic and / or anti-inflammatory compound. These compounds include synthetic compounds such as hydrocortisone, clobetasol, dexamethasone, prednisone, paracetamol, acetylsalicylic acid, amoxiprin, benorylate, choline salicylate, diflunisal, phalamine, methyl salicylate, magnesium salicylate, acetometactaenac, acetyltaccinate, diclofenac bromfenac, etodolac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin, ibuprofen, carprofen, fenbufen, fenoprofen, flurbiprofen, ketoprofen, ketorolac, loxoprofen, naproxen, oxaprozin, tiaprofenic acid, suprofen, mefenamic acid, meclofenamate, meclofenamic acid, nabumetone, phenylbutazone, azapropazone, metamizole , oxyfenbutazone, sulfinpyrazone, piroxicam, lornoxicam, meloxicam, tenoxicam, celecoxib, etoricoxib, lumiracoxib, parecoxib, rofecoxib, valdecoxib, nimesulide, licofelone, omega-3 fatty acids and their biometaboline, morphine, codex, morphine tramadol, brupenorphine, benzocaine, lidocaine, chloroprocaine, tea tracaine, procaine, tricyclic antidepressants, amitriptyline, carbamazepine, gabapentin, pregabalin, bisabolol, panthenol, biotin, lauriminodipropionate phosphate and disodium, cyclopyrox olamine, nordihydroguaaric acid or coenzyme essential oils, or extractants of q, or oils, or alterants of natural oils, or extractants of natural oils, or extractants of natural oils or aliphytes, or essential oils, or alkyls, or essential oils, or alkyls, or natural oils, or alkynes, or natural oils, or aliphytes, or essential oils, or alkynes, or essential oils, or enzymes of alkyls or aliphytes, or natural alkyls, or aliphytes, or aliphytes, as well as natural oils, or extractants, or alkyls, or essential oils, or alkynes, as well as natural oils, or extractants, or natural alkyls, or aliphytes, or natural alkynes, or acetyl, alkyls, or aliphytes, or other alkynes, as well as natural oils analgesic and / or intrinsic anti-inflammatory, such as for example and without limitation madecassosido, equinacin, amaranth seed oil, sandalwood oil, placenta extract, peach leaf extract, Aloe vera, Arnica montana, Artemisia vulgaris, Asarum maximum, Calendula officinalis, Capsicum, Centipeda cunninghamii, Chamomilla recutita, Crinum asiaticum, Hamamelis virginiana, Harpagophytum procumbens, Hypericum perforatum, Lilium candidum, Malva sylvestris, Melaleuca alternifolia, Origanum marjoram, Salix alba, Silybum marianum, Tanacetum parthenium or Uncaria guianensis , among others .

In addition, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise from among cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with anti-wrinkle and / or anti-aging activity as for example and without limiting sense the extracts of Vitis vinifera, Rosa canina, Curcuma tonga, Iris pallida, Theobroma cacao, Ginkgo biloba , or Dunaliella saline among others and / or at least one synthetic compound, extract or biofermentation product with anti-wrinkle and / or anti-aging activity such as for example and without limiting sense Matrixyl® [INCI: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3] or Matrixyl 3000® [INCI: Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide] marketed by Sederma, Vialox® [INCI: Pentapeptide-3] or Syn-ake® [ INCI: Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate] marketed by Pentapharm, Myoxinol ™ [INCI: Hydrolyzed Hib iscus Esculentus Extract] marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques / Cognis, Algisum C® [INCI: Methylsilanol Mannuronate] or Hydroxyprolisilane CN® [INCI: Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate] marketed by Exsymol, Argireline® [INCI: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8® : Pentapeptide-18], Aldenine® [INCI: Hydrolized wheat protein, hydrolized soy protein, tripeptide-1], Eyeseryl® [INCI: Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5], Trylagen ™ [INCI: Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein , Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tripeptide-1] or Lipochroman-6 [INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol] marketed by Lipotec, Kollaren® [INCI: Tripeptide-1, Dextran] marketed by Instití Europeen de Biologie Cellulaire, Collaxyl® [ INCI: Hexapeptide-9] or Quintescine® [INCI: Water, Butylene Glycol, Dipeptide-4] marketed by Vincience, BONT-L-Peptide [proposed INCI: Palmitoyl Hexapeptide] marketed by Infinitec Active, can antagonists to Ca 2+ such as alverin, manganese or magnesium salts, certain secondary or tertiary amines, retinol and its derivatives, idebenone, coenzyme Q10 and its derivatives, boswellic acid and its derivatives or chloride channel agonists among others.

Additionally, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles of the present invention may comprise from among cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvants a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one extract or combination of extracts with depigmenting activity such as for example and without limiting sense the extracts of Achillea millefolium, Aloe vera, Aradirachta indica, Asmuna japan, Autocarpus incisus, Bidens pilosa, Broussonetia papyrifera, Chlorella vulgaris, Cimicifuga racemosa, Emblica officinalis, Glycyrrhiza glabra, Glycyrrhiza liglepusum, luralepumumumumum, Ligurumumumumumumumumumum, Ligurumumumumumumumumumum, urallumumum, uralepus, uralepus, uralepraum, uralepus, urallus citrifolia, Morus alba, Morus bombycis, Naringi crenulata, Prunus domesticus, Pseudostellariae radix, Rumex crispus, Rumex occidentalis, Sapindus Mukurossi, Saxifragia sarmentosa, Scutellaria Galericulate, Sedum sarmentosum Bunge, Stellaria medica, Triticum Vulgare, Uva ursi or Withania somnifera and among others, and / or also a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutically effective amount of at least one synthetic compound, extract or product from a biofermentation process with depigmenting activity such as and without limitation Lipochroman-6 [INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol] (6 -hydroxy-7-methoxy-2,2-dimethylchroman) or Chromabright? [proposed INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chroman Palmitate] marketed by Lipotec, Actiwhite? LS9808 [INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Sucrose Dilaurate, Polysorbate 20, Pisum sativum (Pea) extract] or Dermawhite® NF LS9410 [INCI: Mannltol, Arginine HCI, Phenylalanine, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate, Kojic Acid, Citric Acid, Yeast Extract] marketed by Laboratoires Serobiologiques / Cognis, Lumiskin ™ [ INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglycerid, Diacetyl-Boldine], Melaclear? [INCI: Glycerin, Aqua, Dithiaoctanediol, Gluconic acid, Sutilains, Beta-carotene]., ODAwhite? [INCI: octadecendioic acid] or Etioline ? [INCI: Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Arctostaphylos grape ursi Leaf Extract, Mitracarpus scaber Extract] marketed by Sederma, Sepiwhite? MSH [INCI: Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine] marketed by Seppic, Achromaxyl [INCI: Aqua, Brassica napus Extract] marketed by {Science, TM} [INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Malva sylvestris (Mallow) Extract, Mentha piperita Leaf Extract, Primula veris Extract, Alchemilla vulgaris Extract, Verónica officinalis Extract, Melissa officinalis Leaf Extract, Achillea millefolium Extract], Melawhite® [INCI: Leukocyte Extract , AHA] or Melfade®-J [INCI: Aqua, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate] marketed by Pentapharm, Albatin® [INCI: Aminoethylphosphoric Acid, Butylene Glycol, Aqua] marketed by Exsymol, Tyrostat ^ TM} -11 [INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Rumex occidentalis Extract] or Melanostatine®-5 [INCI: Dextran, Nonapeptide-1] marketed by Atrium Innovations, arbutin and its isomers, kojic acid and s us derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives such as for example and without limitation the 6- O -palmitoilascorbic acid, dipalmitoilascorbic acid, the magnesium salt of ascorbic acid-2-phosphate (MAP), the sodium salt of ascorbic acid-2-phosphate (NAP), ascorbyl glucoside or ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (VCIP) among others, retinol and its derivatives including tretinoin and isotretinoin, idebenone, hydroxybenzoic acid and its derivatives, flavonoids, soy extract, lemon extract, orange extract, ginkgo extract, cucumber extract, geranium extract, bearberry extract, carob extract, cinnamon extract, marjoram extract, rosemary extract, clove extract, soluble licorice extract, blackberry leaf extract, niacinamide, liquiritine, resorcinol and its derivatives, hydroquinone, α-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, azelaic acid, azeloglycine, resveratrol, mercury salts, linoleic acid, α-lipoic acid, dihydrolipoic acid, alphahydro xyacids, betahydroxy acids, ellagic acid, ferulic acid, cinnamic acid, oleanolic acid, aloesin and its derivatives and / or inhibitors of serine proteases, such as, for example and without limiting sense, tryptase, trypsin or PAR-2 inhibitors, among others .

Cosmetic compositions or Dermopharmaceuticals of the invention may include agents that increase percutaneous absorption of mixed micelles, as per example and without limitation dimethylsulfoxide, dimethylacetamide, dimethylformamide, surfactants, azone (1-dodecylazacycloheptan-2-one), alcohol, urea, ethoxydiglycol, acetone, propylene glycol or polyethylene glycol among others. Also, cosmetic compositions or dermopharmaceuticals object of the present invention can be applied in local areas to be treated by iontophoresis, sonophoresis, electroporation, microelectric patches, pressure mechanical, osmotic pressure gradient, occlusive cure, microinjections or injections without needles by pressure, as per example oxygen pressure injections, or any combination of them, in order to achieve greater penetration of mixed micelles in the stratum corneum.

The compositions of the invention are also they can incorporate cosmetic sustained release systems or dermopharmaceuticals

The term "sustained release" is used conventionally referring to a system of vehiculization of a compound or composition that provides the gradual release of said compound or composition during a period of time and preferably, but not necessarily, with release levels of the compound or composition constant at over a period of time.

Examples of sustained release systems are miliparticles, microparticles, nanoparticles, nanoparticles lipid solids, sponges, cyclodextrins, vesicles, microspheres, microspheres, nanospheres, lipospheres, microcapsules, microcapsules and nanocapsules, which can be added in order to get greater penetration of the composition of mixed micelles and / or improve the pharmacokinetic and pharmacodynamic properties of the same.

Sustained release formulations can be prepared by methods known in the state of the technique. The amount of mixed micelle composition contained in the sustained release formulation will depend, for example, on the Kinetics and duration of release of the micelle composition mixed of the invention.

The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions of the present invention can be prepared by conventional methods known to those skilled in the art ("Harry's Cosmeticology ", Eight edition 2000; " Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy ", Twentieth edition 2003). The mixed micelles of the compositions of the present invention can also be prepared by methods known to those skilled in the art.

The topical application formulations of the Composition of the invention can be presented in any form of solid, liquid or semi-solid administration, for example and without limiting sense, creams, multiple emulsions such as by example and without limitation oil and / or silicone emulsions in water, water emulsions in oil and / or silicone, emulsions of the type water / oil / water or water / silicone / water and emulsions of the type oil / water / oil or silicone / water / silicone, anhydrous compositions, aqueous dispersions, oils, milks, balms, foams, lotions, gels, hydroalcoholic solutions, hydro-glycol solutions, liniments, serums, soaps, shampoos, conditioners, serums, films of polysaccharides, ointments, mousses, ointments, powders, bars, pencils and vaporizers or sprays, including permanence formulations or (leave on) and those for rinsing or (rinse-off). These application formulations Topical can be incorporated using techniques known to experts in the field to different types of solid accessories such as for example and without limiting sense to different makeup line products such as makeup backgrounds, including fluid makeup backgrounds and makeup backgrounds compact, cleansing lotions, cleansing milks, dark circles, eye shadows, lipsticks, lip protectors, lip gloss and powders among others. The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions of the present invention can also be incorporated into products for the treatment and / or care of nails and cuticles such as enamels, nail polish remover lotions and remover lotions between others.

The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of the invention can also be adsorbed to solid organic polymers or solid mineral supports such as for example and meaningless limiting talc, bentonite, silica, starch or maltodextrin between others.

The cosmetic composition of the invention also can be incorporated into tissues, non-woven fabrics (non-woven) and medical devices that are in direct contact with skin, eyelashes, hair and / or body nails, so that they release the mixed micelles of the composition of the invention either by biodegradation of the tissue anchoring system, non-woven fabric or product sanitary or by the friction of these with the body, by the body moisture, by skin pH or temperature bodily. Also, tissues and non-woven fabrics can be used for making garments that are in direct contact with the skin, hair and / or nails. Preferably, the tissues, non-woven fabrics and products sanitary fittings containing the composition of the invention are used for treatment and / or care of those conditions, disorders and / or pathologies of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails associated with a excessive loss of water and / or altered barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails.

Examples of fabrics, non-woven fabrics, garments, sanitary products and means of immobilization of micelles can be described in the literature and are known in the state of the art (" Impregnating Fabrics With Microcapsules ", HAPPI May 1986; Int. J . Pharm . 2002, 242, 55-62; " Biofunctional Textiles and the Skin " Curr. Probl. Dermatol . 2006 v.3; J. Cont. Release 2004, 97, 313-320). Fabrics, non-woven fabrics, garments and sanitary products preferred are bandages, gauze, T-shirts, socks, socks, underwear, girdles, gloves, diapers, compresses, dressings, bedspreads, wipes, hydrogels, adhesive patches, non-adhesive patches, microelectric patches and / or facial masks.

Another aspect of the present invention relates to to a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed micelles phospholipid-surfactant, where these mixed micelles they are reconstituted in liposomes in the stratum corneum of the skin encapsulating water, for the treatment and / or skin care, eyelashes, hair and / or nails.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention refers to a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed phospholipid-surfactant micelles for treatment and / or care of those conditions, disorders and / or pathologies associated with excessive water loss and / or the impaired barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nail. Preferably, these conditions, disorders and / or pathologies are selected from the group formed by aging of the skin (skin-aging), pigmentation disorders of the skin and / or hair, dry skin, hyperseborrhea, sensitive skin, Dandruff, alopecia and hair loss, xeroderma, eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, nail infections, candidiasis and systemic lupus erythematosus. These conditions, disorders and / or pathologies may originate in a loss excessive water and / or alteration of the barrier function, or the condition, disorder and / or pathology has a cause other than excessive loss of water and / or impaired barrier function, but causes excessive water loss and / or an alteration of the barrier function

In the context of the present invention, the term "skin aging" refers to changes that the skin undergoes with age (chrono-aging) or exposure to the sun (photo-aging) or to environmental agents such as tobacco smoke , extreme weather conditions of cold or wind, chemical pollutants or pollution, and includes all visible external changes and as well as perceptible by touch, such as without limitation, the development of discontinuities in the skin such as wrinkles, lines fine, cracks, irregularities or roughness, increased pore size, loss of elasticity, loss of firmness, loss of smoothness, loss of the ability to recover from deformation, sagging of the skin such as sagging of the cheeks , the appearance of bags under the eyes or the appearance of jowls among others, changes in skin color such as spots, redness, dark circles or appearance n of hyperpigmented areas such as age spots or freckles among others, abnormal differentiation, hyperkeratinization, elastosis, keratosis, orange peel appearance, loss of collagen structuring and other histological changes of the stratum corneum, dermis, epidermis , of the vascular system
(for example the appearance of spider veins or telangiectasias) or of those tissues close to the skin among others.

The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of the present invention may be a final composition, available for its application without having to perform any procedure of concentration, dissolution, dilution, dispersion, spraying, sprayed or any other similar procedure known to the expert in the field, or an intermediate composition to which perform one or more of the above procedures or any another procedure known to the person skilled in the art with the object of obtaining a final composition.

Another aspect of the present invention relates to to the use of a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of micelles mixed phospholipid-surfactant, where these micelles mixed are reconstituted in liposomes in the stratum corneum of the skin encapsulating water, in the preparation of a cosmetic composition or final dermopharmaceutical for the treatment and / or skin care, eyelashes, hair and / or nails.

In a particular embodiment, the present invention refers to the use of a cosmetic composition or mixed micellar dermopharmaceutical phospholipid-surfactant, where these mixed micelles they are reconstituted in liposomes in the stratum corneum of the skin encapsulating water, in the preparation of a cosmetic composition or final dermopharmaceutical for the treatment and / or care of those conditions, disorders and / or pathologies associated with excessive loss of water and / or alteration of the barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails. Preferably, you are conditions, disorders and / or pathologies are selected from the group formed by skin aging (skin-aging), skin and / or hair pigmentation disorders, dryness of the skin, hyperseborrhea, sensitive skin, dandruff, alopecia and loss of hair, xeroderma, eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, nail infections, candidiasis and systemic lupus erythematosus. These conditions, disorders and / or pathologies may originate in excessive water loss and / or impaired barrier function, or either the condition, disorder and / or pathology has a cause other than excessive water loss and / or impaired barrier function, but causes excessive loss of water and / or an alteration of the barrier function

Another aspect of the present invention relates to to a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical method for treatment and / or taken care of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails, which includes the application of a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of mixed phospholipid surfactant micelles, where are you mixed micelles are reconstituted in liposomes in the stratum corneum of the skin encapsulating water.

In a particular embodiment, the method of treatment and / or care of those conditions, disorders and / or pathologies is associated with excessive loss of water and / or to the alteration of the barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails. Preferably, these conditions, disorders and / or pathologies are selected from the group formed by aging of the skin (skin-aging), pigmentation disorders of the skin and / or hair, dry skin, hyperseborrhea, sensitive skin, Dandruff, alopecia and hair loss, xeroderma, eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, nail infections, candidiasis and systemic lupus erythematosus. These conditions, disorders and / or pathologies may originate in a loss excessive water and / or alteration of the barrier function, or the condition, disorder and / or pathology has a cause other than excessive loss of water and / or impaired barrier function, but causes excessive water loss and / or an alteration of the barrier function

The frequency of application may vary. widely depending on the needs of each subject, suggesting an application range from once a month to ten times a day, preferably from once a week to four times a day, more preferably from three times a week to three times a day, even more preferably once or twice a day.

The following specific examples to be provided here serve to illustrate the nature of the present invention. These examples are included for purposes only. illustrative and should not be construed as limitations to the invention claimed here.

Description of the figures

Figure 1 shows a photograph obtained by electron transmission microscopy. The numbers point 5 liposomes containing phosphatidylcholine size 280 nm (1), 470 nm (2), 520 nm (3), (4) and 700 nm (5) reconstituted in the stratum cornea from the mixed micelle composition of example 1. The interior space of the liposomes is occupied by water from the stratum corneum that is encapsulated within the liposomes reconstituted

Figure 2 shows a photograph obtained by electron transmission microscopy. The numbers point 5 liposomes containing phosphatidylcholine size 320 nm (1), 190 nm (2), 160 nm (3), 270 nm (4) and 320 nm (5) reconstituted in the stratum corneum from the composition of mixed micelles of the example 2. The interior space of. the liposomes is occupied by water of the stratum corneum that is encapsulated within the reconstituted liposomes.

Figure 3 shows a photograph obtained by electron transmission microscopy. The numbers point 2 liposomes containing 95 nm (1) and 180 nm (2) size lecithin reconstituted in the stratum corneum from the composition of mixed micelles from example 3. The inner space of the liposomes is occupied by water from the stratum corneum that is encapsulated within the reconstituted liposomes.

Figure 4 was obtained by microscopy of electronic transmission, shows a liposome containing phosphatidylserine, size 300 nm, reconstituted in the stratum cornea from the mixed micelle composition of example 4. The interior space of the liposome is occupied by stratum water cornea that is encapsulated within the reconstituted liposome.

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Examples General Methodology

All reagents and solvents are of quality for synthesis and are used without any additional treatment.

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Example 1 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside phosphatidylcholine

20.4 g of the non-ionic surfactant was dissolved n-octyl β-D-glycoside in 50 ml of Water. Once the solution was made, 7.8 g of the lipid was added LIPOID® S 100 (phosphatidylcholine fatty acid esters) [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine], mixed well and made up to 100 ml with water. It was mixed again by heating the dispersion to 40 ° C and used an ultrasonic bath to facilitate homogenization of the solution. Mixed micelles formed when all lipid It was solubilized and a clear dispersion was obtained.

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Example 2 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside / decylglucoside phosphatidylcholine

Mixed micelles were prepared in the manner described in example 1, but n-octyl was substituted β-D-glycoside by a mixture of octylglucoside and decylglucoside surfactants, ORAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside].

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Example 3 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside / decylglycoside-lecithin

Mixed micelles were prepared in the manner described in example 2, but the phospholipid LIPOID® S was replaced 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] per LIPOID® P 20 lecithin [INCI: Lecithin], The amount of surfactants was 32 g and the amount of 3 g phospholipids.

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Example 4 Composition of mixed micelles of dodecylmaltoside phosphatidylserine

Mixed micelles were prepared in the manner described in example 1, but n-octyl was substituted β-D-glycoside by dodecilmaltósido and the phospholipid LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] was replaced by phosphatidylserine. The amount of dodecylmaltoside was 16 g and the amount of phosphatidylserine of 6.8 g

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Example 5 Composition of mixed octylglucoside phosphatidylcholine and N- stearoylphytosphingosine micelles

The mixed micelles were prepared in the manner described in Example 1. The amount of surfactant was 23 g, that of phospholipid 6 g and 1 g of the CERAMIDE III lipid ( N- stearoylphosphingosine) was added together with the phospholipid.

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Example 6 Composition of mixed micelles of polysorbate phosphatidylinositol and cholesterol

Mixed micelles were prepared in the manner described in example 1. The amount of TWEEN® 80 surfactant [INCI: Polysorbate 80] was 8 g, that of phospholipid 5 g phosphatidylinositol and 1 g of cholesterol was added at the same time as the phospholipid The solvent was ethanol.

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Example 7 Composition of mixed micelles of nonoxynol-phosphatidyl glycerol and octyl- / decyltriglycerides

Mixed micelles were prepared in the manner described in example 1. The amount of surfactant Nonoxynol-9 was 78 g, that of phospholipid phosphatidyldiglycerol 1.4 g and 0.4 g of MYRITOL® 318 was added [INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride] at the same time as the phospholipid. He Solvent was glycerin.

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Example 8 Composition of mixed micelles of dodecylbetaine phosphatidylethanolamine

Mixed micelles were prepared in the manner described in example 1. The amount of dodecyl betaine surfactant it was 8 g, that of phospholipid phosphatidylethanolamine 8 g. He solvent was propylene glycol.

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Example 9 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside / decylglucoside phosphatidylcholine which contain caffeine, carnitine, imidazolidinyl urea and parabens

They were dissolved under stirring in 50 ml of water 0.5 g of PHENONIP® [INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben], 0.1 g of imidazolidinyl urea, 2 g of caffeine and 1 g of carnitine. One time dissolved 3 g of phosphatidylcholine was added under stirring LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] and then 0.4 g of xanthan gum Finally, 30 g of ORAMIX CG110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside] 60% slowly and with stirring to not foam and flush with water up to 100 ml.

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Example 10 Composition of mixed micelles of octiiglucoside / decylglucosMo-phosphatjdjlcholine which contains diclofenac sodium

They were dissolved under stirring in 50 ml of water 30 g of ORAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside], and then 0.2 g of diclofenac sodium. One time dissolved 7 g of phosphatidylcholine was added under stirring LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] slowly to not form foam and flush with water up to 100 ml.

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Example 11 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside / decylglycoside-lecithin which contienediclofenac sodium

They were dissolved under stirring in 50 ml of water 30 g of ORAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside], and then 0.2 g of diclofenac sodium. One time dissolved were added under stirring 3g of LIPOID® P20 [INCI: Lecithin] slowly to not foam and flush with water up to 100 ml

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Example 12 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside / decylglucoside-lecithin containing Usina, SERILESINE®, imidazolidinyl urea and parabens

The composition was prepared in the manner described in Example 9. Initially 0.5 g of PHENONIP® was dissolved [INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben], 0.1 g of imidazolidinyl urea, 2 g of lysine and 10 g of aqueous solution of SERILESINE® [INCI: Hexapeptide-10] at 0.05%. Then you added 4 g of LIPOID® P20 lecithin [INCI: Lecithin] and 0.4 g of xanthan gum Finally, 30 g of ORAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside] 60% slowly and with stirring to not foam and make up to 100 ml of Water.

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Example 13 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside / decylglucoside phosphatidylcholine which contain hyaluronic acid, glycerin, imidazolidinyl urea and parabens

The composition was prepared in the manner described in Example 9. Initially 0.5 g of PHENONIP® was dissolved [INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben], 0.1 g of imidazolidinyl urea, 0.1 g of hyaluronic acid and 5 g of glycerin. Then they were added 3 g of phosphatidylcholine LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] and 0.4 g of xanthan gum. Finally, 30 g of ORAMIX CG110 was added [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside] 60% slowly and with stirring so as not to foam and flush up to 100 ml of Water.

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Example 14 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside / decylglucoside phosphatidylcholine which contain ascorbyl glycoside, arbutin, imidazolidinyl urea and parabens

The composition was prepared in the manner described in Example 9. Initially 0.5 g of PHENONIP® was dissolved [INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben], 0.1 g of imidazolidinyl urea, 2 g of ascorbyl glycoside and 5 g of arbutin. Then you added 3 g of phosphatidylcholine LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] and 0.4 g of xanthan gum. Finally added 30 g of ORAMIX CG110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside] 60% slowly and with agitation to not foam and it was made up to 100 ml of water.

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Example 15 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside / decylglucoside phosphatidylcholine which contain ALDENINE®, tocopherol acetate, imidazolidinyl urea and parabens

They were dissolved under stirring in 50 ml of water 0.5 g of PHENONIP® [INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben], 0.1 g of imidazolidinyl urea and 5 g of an aqueous solution of ALDENINE® [INCI: Hydrolized Wheat Protein, Hydrolized Soy Protein, Tripeptide-1]. Once dissolved, they were added under Stirring 3 g of phosphatidylcholine LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] followed by 0.5 g of tocopherol acetate, and a then 0.4 g of xanthan gum. Finally, 30 g of ORAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside] at 60% slowly and with agitation to not foam and flush with water up to 100 ml.

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Example 16 Composition of mixed micelles of octylglucoside / decylglucoside phosphatidylcholine which contain parabens, ANTARCTICINE®, LEUPHASYL® and the peptide metalloprotease inhibitor Ac-L-Arg-L-His-L-His-L-Cit-OH

They were dissolved under stirring in 50 ml of water 0.5 g of PHENONIP® [INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben], 0.3 g of potassium sorbate and 0.5 g of caprililglicol and heated to 30 ° C. Once dissolved, 4 g of phosphatidylcholine LIPOID® S 100 [INCI: Phosphatidylcholine] followed 7.5 g of ANTARCTICINE® [INCI: Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract], 20 g of an aqueous solution of LEUPHASYL® [INCI: 0.05% Pentapeptide-18], and 0.025 g of the peptide metalloprotease inhibitor Ac-L-Arg-L-His-L-His-L-Cit-OH, and then 0.4 g of xanthan gum. Finally, 30 were added g of ORAMIX CG 110 [INCI: Water (Aqua), Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside] 60% slowly and with stirring to not foam and flush with water up to 100 ml.

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Example 17 Reconstitution tests of mixed micelle compositions of examples 1-4 in liposomes in the stratum horny

After 18 hours after the application of the compositions of examples 1 to 4 in pig stratum stratum are separated the hairless pig epidermis and the slices were isolated stratum corneum Then the stratum corneum was cut into thin 2x1 mm sheets approximately. The sheets were fixed with 5% glutaraldehyde in 0.1 M sodium cacodylate buffer at pH = 7.2 and postfixed in RuO 4 0.2% in 0.1M sodium cacodylate buffer at pH = 6.8 with 0.25% sodium ferrocyanide (w / v). After an hour, the RuO_ {4} solution was changed to fresh RuO_ {4} to get an optimal fixation. After washing with buffer, the samples of tissue were cryofixed by rapid freezing with nitrogen liquid at -196 ° C.

Cryofixed samples were analyzed in a AFS (Automatic Freeze Substitution) system (Leica). The tissue is cryosubstituted at -90 ° C for 48 h using 1% methanol of OsO4, 9.5% uranyl acetate and 3% glutaraldehyde. After 48 hours, the temperature was increased to -50 ° C after what the samples were washed three times with methanol and sequentially was replacing the methanol solution with the Lowicryl HM20 medium (100%) This resin was replaced after 24 and 48 hours by new medium. Finally, the samples were subjected to UVA radiation to allow the polymerization and ultrafine cuts were made (Ultracut UCT, Leica) that were transferred to a Formvar plate and examined in a Hitachi 600 electronic transmission microscope.

Figures 1 to 4 show liposomes containing reconstituted water in the pig skin stratum corneum for compositions of examples 1 to 4 respectively.

Claims (26)

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1. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition characterized in that it comprises a dispersion of mixed phospholipid-surfactant micelles, which are reconstituted in liposomes in the skin's stratum corneum encapsulating water. 2. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 1, wherein the liposomes are mixed liposomes phospholipid surfactant. 3. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of the surfactants non-ionic, amphoteric surfactants, surfactants anionic, cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof. 4. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the Surfactant is selected from the group consisting of alkyl glycosides with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, alkyl maltósidos with an alkyl group that has from 6 to 24 atoms of carbon, ethoxylated alkylphenols with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms and 5 to 30 units of ethylene oxide, alkylphenylpolyoxyethylene ethers with an alkyl group having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, saturated fatty alcohols or unsaturated with an alkyl group having from 8 to 24 atoms of carbon, poloxamers, polysorbates, sorbitan esters, esters of polyethylene glycol fatty acids, castor oils, ethers of fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylene, fatty acid alkanolamides, amine oxides, alkyl betaines with an alkyl group having 6 at 24 carbon atoms, acylamido betaines, alkyl sulfo betaines with an alkyl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, derivatives of glycine, digitonin and mixtures thereof. 5. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of octylglucoside, decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, octylfructósido, dodecylmatoside, decylmatoside, nonoxynol-9, polyethylene glycol p - (1,1,3 tetramethylbutyl) phenyl ether, palmityl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, poloxamer 188, poloxamer 407, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 80, polyethylene glycol stearate 50, polyethylene glycol stearate 100, polyethylene glycol amide, polyethyleneetheamine, polyethyleneethamine, copropylamine, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneamide, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneamide, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneethamine, polyethyleneethamine, copropylamine , lauramide diethanolamine, lauramide monoethanolamine, cocamidopropylamine oxide, decylbetaine, dodecylbetaine, tetradecylbetaine, cocoylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, N -2-hydroxyethylglycinate coconutamidoethyl and N -coconutmydimethyl and coconutamidoethyl N -methylcarbamide the. 6. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the Phospholipid is a phosphoglyceride. 7. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 6, wherein the phosphoglyceride is selected from the group consisting of phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidic acid, phosphatidylglycerol, diphosphatidylglycerol, phosphorylcholine, cardiolipin, egg lecithin, soy lecithin, lecithin Sunflower, its fatty acid esters and mixtures. 8. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein mixed micelles additionally comprise at least one lipid selected from the group consisting of glycerides, sterols, prenoles, glycolipids, ceramides, glycosphingolipids, fatty acids and their mixtures 9. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 8, wherein the lipid is selected from the group formed by cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, beta-sitosterol, ergosterol, phytosterols, triglycerides, 1,2-diacylglycerol, phytosphingosines, Stearylamine and its mixtures. 10. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising additionally a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical amount effective of at least one cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant. 11. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 10 wherein the cosmetic adjuvant or Dermopharmaceutical is selected from the group consisting of adjuvants cosmetics or dermopharmaceuticals that recover and / or maintain the skin barrier function, hydrolytic epidermal enzymes, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, descaling agents, agents Melanin synthesis stimulators or inhibitors, agents bleaching or depigmenting agents, pro-pigmenting agents, agents self-tanning agents, anti-aging agents, inhibitors of NO synthase, organic solvents, propellants liquids, vitamins, pigments or dyes, dyes, polymers gelling agents, thickeners, softeners, anti-wrinkle agents, agents dermorelajantes, agents capable of reducing or treating the bags under the eyes, scrubbing agents, agents anti-pruritus, agents for treatment and / or care of sensitive skin, firming agents, agents astringents, lipolysis stimulating agents, agents anti-cellulite, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, analgesic agents, agents that act on the metabolism of cells, agents intended to improve binding dermis-epidermis, growth inducing agents of hair, inhibitors or growth retardants of hair, muscle relaxants, preservatives, perfumes, absorbents of smell, chelating agents, plant extracts, oils essentials, marine extracts, agents from a Biofermentation procedure, mineral salts, extracts cell phones, sunscreens, nature photoprotective agents organic or mineral active against ultraviolet rays A and / or B, and their mixtures

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12. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 11, wherein the cosmetic adjuvant or Dermopharmaceutical is a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical adjuvant that recover and / or maintain the barrier function of the skin selected from the group formed humectants, substances that retain moisture, moisturizers, emollients, emulsifying agents, agents stimulators of lipid synthesis and stratum components cornea, ceramides, fatty acids, proteins, inhibitors of 5α-reductase inhibitors lysyl- and / or prolyl hydroxylase agents antioxidants, free radical scavenging agents and / or anti-air pollution agents anti-glycation, antimicrobial agents, agents fungicides, fungistatic agents, bactericidal agents, agents bacteriostatic agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or capable of inhibiting or prevent its degradation, agents that stimulate the synthesis of collagen, elastin synthesis stimulating agents, agents stimulators of decorin synthesis, stimulating agents of laminin synthesis, agents that stimulate the synthesis of defensins, chaperone synthesis stimulating agents, agents that stimulate the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, agents Aquaporin synthesis stimulators, stimulating agents of the synthesis of fibronectin, inhibitors of matrix metalloproteases, inhibitors of degradation of collagen, elastin degradation inhibitors, agents inhibitors of serine proteases, leukocyte elastase, cathepsin G, fibroblast proliferation stimulating agents, agents keratinocyte proliferation stimulators, agents keratinocyte differentiation stimulators, stimulators of the proliferation of adipocytes, agents that stimulate the adipocyte differentiation, stimulating agents of the angiogenesis, agents that stimulate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, DNA repair agents, agents DNA protectors, anti-stretch marks, agents sebum production regulators, stimulating agents of the healing, healing agents, agents reepithelizers, cytokine growth factors, agents that act on capillary circulation and / or microcirculation and its mixtures 13. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of claims 10 to 12, wherein the adjuvant cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical is of synthetic origin or is a plant extract or comes from a procedure of biofermentation 14. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising additionally at least one agent that increases absorption percutaneous mixed micelles. 15. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the application is done by iontophoresis, sonophoresis, electroporation, microelectric patches, mechanical pressure, osmotic pressure gradient, occlusive cure, microinjections, needleless injections by pressure or any combination of they. 16. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, which It is incorporated into a cosmetic sustained release system or dermopharmaceutically acceptable selected from the group formed per thousand particles, microparticles, nanoparticles, nanoparticles lipid solids, sponges, cyclodextrins, vesicles, microspheres, microspheres, nanospheres, lipospheres, microcapsules, microcapsules and nanocapsules. 17. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, which is presented in the form of cream, multiple emulsion, anhydrous composition, aqueous dispersion, oil, milk, balm, foam, lotion, gel, hydroalcoholic solution, hydroroglycol solution, liniment, serum, soap, shampoo, conditioner, serum, polysaccharide film, ointment, mousse, ointment, powder, stick, pencil, vaporizer, spray, permanence formulation and rinse formulation. 18. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims, which find built-in, makeup funds, lotions cleansers, cleansing milks, dark circles, eye shadows, lipsticks, lip balms, glitters lipsticks, powders, nail polishes, nail polish remover lotions or lotion remover lotions. 19. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, found incorporated into a fabric, a non-woven fabric or a product sanitary. 20. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 19, wherein the tissue, non-woven fabric or product sanitary is selected from the group consisting of bandages, gauze, T-shirts, socks, tights, underwear, girdles, gloves, diapers, compresses, dressings, bedspreads, wipes, hydrogels, adhesive patches, non-adhesive patches, microelectric patches and facial masks 21. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to any of the preceding claims for the treatment and / or care of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails. 22. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 21, for the treatment and / or care of those conditions, disorders and / or pathologies associated with a excessive loss of water and / or altered barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails. 23. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 22, wherein the conditions, disorders and / or pathologies are selected from the group formed by aging of the skin, skin and / or hair pigmentation disorders, dryness of skin, hyperseborrhea, sensitive skin, dandruff, alopecia, loss of hair, xeroderma, eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, nail infections, candidiasis and lupus erythematosus systemic

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24. Use of a cosmetic composition or dermopharmaceutical according to any of claims 1 to 20, in the preparation of a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition final for the treatment and / or care of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nails. 25. Use according to claim 24 for the treatment and / or care of those conditions, disorders and / or pathologies associated with excessive water loss and / or the impaired barrier function of the skin, eyelashes, hair and / or nail. 26. Use according to claim 25, wherein the conditions, disorders and / or pathologies are selected from the group formed by skin aging, pigmentation disorders of skin and / or hair, dry skin, hyperseborrhea, skin sensitive, dandruff, alopecia, hair loss, xeroderma, eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, rosacea, nail infections, candidiasis and / or systemic lupus erythematosus.