EP4734924A1

EP4734924A1 - Silicone free composition for conditioning the hair

Info

Publication number: EP4734924A1
Application number: EP23942930.1A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Jingting TANG; Lingchao KONG; Lili Yang
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2023-06-30
Filing date: 2023-06-30
Publication date: 2026-05-06
Also published as: FR3150437B3; WO2025000422A1; FR3150437A3; CN121175020A

Abstract

A silicone free composition for conditioning the hair comprises: a) at least one volatile alkane; b) at least one fatty substance selected from unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, fatty acid ester oils, and mixtures thereof; and c) at least one thickener selected from ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymers, copolymers of styrene and olefin, and mixtures thereof. A process for conditioning the hair comprises applying the composition onto the hair.

Description

SILICONE FREE COMPOSITION FOR CONDITIONING THE HAIR

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition for conditioning the hair. In particular, the present invention relates to a silicone free composition for conditioning the hair. The present invention also relates to a process for conditioning the hair.

BACKGROUND ART

The hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather, and/or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent and/or straightening.
There are many products developed for conditioning the hair.
Current hair oil market is dominated by oil contains silicones. However, many consumers favor silicone-free hair oil products, thus silicone-free oil products are growing worldwide.
Therefore, it is desired to develop Si-free oil product for conditioning the hair, which can provide similar conditioning effect with silicone-based oil products and do not deliver greasy sensory.
It is also desired that the Si-free oil product is stable so that the consumers can apply it conveniently.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

An object of the present invention is thus to develop Si-free oil products for conditioning the hair, which is stable, can provide similar conditioning effect with silicone-based oil products and do not deliver greasy sensory.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for conditioning the hair.
Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a silicone free composition for conditioning the hair comprising:
a) at least one volatile alkane;
b) at least one fatty substance selected from unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, fatty acid ester oils, and mixtures thereof; and
c) at least one thickener selected from ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymers, optionally hydrogenated block, especially diblock or triblock, copolymers of styrene and olefin, preferably containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations, and/or preferably containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a process for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair.
The inventors have now found that with the combination of at least one volatile alkane, at least one fatty substance as defined above, and at least one thickener as defined above, the composition of the present invention can provide similar conditioning effects as silicone based oil composition, for example a light and silky feeling.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.
DETAILD DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "from…to…" .
As used herein, the term "comprising" is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones.
As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required.
As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
As used herein, the expression "silicone free composition" means that silicone is not added intentionally in the composition, in particular, the composition comprises no more than 2 wt. %of silicone, relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly, the composition does not comprise silicone.
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises:
a) at least one volatile alkane;
b) at least one fatty substance selected from unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, fatty acid ester oils and mixtures thereof; and
c) at least one thickener selected from ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymers, optionally hydrogenated block, especially diblock or triblock, copolymers of styrene and olefin, preferably containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations, and/or preferably containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
Volatile alkanes
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile alkane.
The term “alkane” is intended to mean any compound comprising a linear or branched, saturated, hydrocarbon-based chain constituted exclusively of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms.
The term “volatile alkane” that is suitable for use in the present invention is intended to mean an alkane which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101325 Pa) , which is liquid at ambient temperature, especially having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg/cm²/minute, at ambient temperature (25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
Among the volatile alkanes in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of:
Volatile linear alkanes;
Volatile branched alkanes;
and mixtures thereof.
a) Volatile linear alkanes
The volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the present invention are preferably selected from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.
As examples of alkanes that are suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007/068371 and WO 2008/155059 from the company Cognis (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon) . These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from copra oil or palm oil.
As examples of linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C₇) , n-octane (C₈) , n-nonane (C₉) , n-decane (C₁₀) , n-undecane (C₁₁) , n-dodecane (C₁₂) , n-tridecane (C₁₃) and n-tetradecane (C₁₄) , and mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred mode, mention may be made of mixtures of n-undecane (C₁₁) and of n-tridecane (C₁₃) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155059 from the company Cognis.
Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C₁₂) and n-tetradecane (C₁₄) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12 97 and Parafol 14 97, and also mixtures thereof.
b) Volatile branched alkanes
Among the branched volatile alkanes, mention may be made of branched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes, for instance C₈-C₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof. Isododecane and isohexadecane will preferably be used.
Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile alkane selected from linear C₇-C₁₄ alkanes, branched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes and mixtures thereof.
More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one volatile alkane selected from n-undecane (C11) , n-tridecane (C13) , isododecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
Even more preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of n-undecane (C11) , n-tridecane (C13) , isododecane and isohexadecane.
The volatile alkane can deliver excellent spread ability on hair with no greasiness.
Advantageously, the volatile alkane is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 80 wt. %, more preferably from 20 wt. %to 80 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain and fatty acid ester oils
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one fatty substance selected from unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, fatty acid ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
Unsaturated fatty compounds
Preferably, the unsaturated fatty compound is selected from unsaturated fatty alcohol comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain.
More preferably, the unsaturated fatty compound is selected from unsaturated fatty monoalcohol comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain.
Even more preferably, the unsaturated fatty compound is selected from linear unsaturated fatty monoalcohol comprising a C14-C20 carbon chain.
In some embodiments, the unsaturated fatty compound is of structure R-OH, wherein R represents a linear alkenyl group comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
Most preferably, the unsaturated fatty compound is oleyl alcohol.
As an example of commercial products of linear unsaturated fatty monoalcohol comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, mention can be made of oleyl alcohol sold under the name HD OCENOL 80/85 V/MB by the company BASF or under the name CRODACOL A 10 by CRODA.
The presence of the unsaturated fatty compound can provide conditioning effect without greasiness touch feeling. In particular, the unsaturated fatty compound has high affinity to damaged hair fiber especially in wet stage, furthermore the long chain can provide nourish and soft feeling.
Fatty acid ester oils
Advantageously, the fatty acid ester oil is selected from liquid monoesters of saturated or unsaturated, branched C₃-C₂₆ aliphatic monoacid or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, branched C₃-C₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohol or polyalcohol.
In the context of present invention, the term "oil" means a fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
The fatty acid ester oil of the present invention is liquid monoesters of saturated or unsaturated, branched C₃-C₂₆ aliphatic monoacids and of saturated or unsaturated, branched C₃-C₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being preferably greater than or equal to 10, and preferably less than or equal to 30.
Preferably, the fatty acid ester oil is liquid monoesters of saturated or unsaturated, branched C₃-C₂₂ aliphatic monoacids and of saturated or unsaturated, branched C₃-C₂₀ aliphatic monoalcohols. More preferably, the fatty acid ester oil is liquid monoesters of saturated, branched C₆-C₂₀ aliphatic monoacids and of saturated, branched C₂-C₆ aliphatic monoalcohols.
The preferred esters may have the following formula:
R₁-C (=O) -O-R₂
wherein R₁ represents a branched, preferably branched alkyl radical of 3 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably of 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branched, preferably branched alkyl radical of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the total number of carbon atoms of R₁+R₂ may be 9 or more, preferably 12 or more, more preferably 16 or more, and most preferably 20 or more.
The esters may be, for example, hexanoate, nonanoate, isononanoate, caprates, laurates, myristates, palmitates, stearates, isostearates, behenates, and mixtures thereof.
Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, and isononyl isononanoate.
As examples of preferable fatty acid ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, isohexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropy stearate, isopropyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof.
The most preferred fatty acid ester oil is isopropyl isostearate.
The presence of the fatty acid ester oil can provide conditioning effect without greasiness touch feeling.
Advantageously, the fatty substance selected from unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, fatty acid ester oils, and mixtures thereof is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 40 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, more preferably from 2 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
For the purpose of the present invention, preferably, the composition comprises both an unsaturated fatty compound comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain and a fatty acid ester oil.
Advantageously, the composition comprises an unsaturated fatty compound comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %and a fatty acid ester oil in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thickeners
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one thickener selected from ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymers, optionally hydrogenated block, especially diblock or triblock, copolymers of styrene and olefin, preferably containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations, and/or preferably containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickener" means a compound that is capable, by virtue of its presence, at 25℃, of increasing the viscosity of the composition in which it is present, preferably by at least 50 cP (centipoises) .
Ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) s
The ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) (ETPEA) polymer is preferably in the form of a resin prepared by reacting a diacid, a diamine, a polyol and a monoalcohol in which:
(i) at least 50 equivalent%of said diacid comprises a polymerized fatty acid and
(ii) at least 50 equivalent%of said diamine comprises ethylenediamine.
More preferentially, the resin composition is such that
(iii) 10 to 60 equivalent%relative to all of the equivalents of hydroxyl and of amine originating from the diamine, from the polyol and from the monoalcohol originate from the monoalcohol,
(iv) at most 50 equivalent%relative to all of the equivalents of hydroxyl and of amine originating from the diamine, from the polyol and from the monoalcohol originate from the polyol.
The ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) (ETPEA) polymers can be prepared according to the process described in patent US 6 552 160.
The diacid is in general an organic molecule containing two carboxylic acid groups or equivalent reactive groups. Preferentially, the diacid is a polymerized fatty acid.
The polymerized fatty acid is typically a mixture comprising an acid dimer and an acid trimer where each dimer may be saturated, unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, etc. The polymerized fatty acid used for the synthesis of the ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) (ETPEA) polymer is preferably an acid dimer.
The polymerized fatty acid is in general formed by heating long-chain unsaturated fatty acids, for example C₁₈ monocarboxylic acids, at temperatures of about 200-250℃ in the presence of a catalyst clay in order to polymerize the fatty acids. The product obtained comprises in general an acid dimer, in particular a C₃₆ dicarboxylic acid formed by dimerization of the fatty acid and an acid trimer, in particular a C₅₄ tricarboxylic acid obtained by trimerization of the carboxylic acid. Greater details regarding the polymerization of fatty acids are indicated in particular in patent US 3 157 681 and the book “Naval Stores--Production, Chemistry and Utilization, D.F. Zinkel and J. Russell (eds. ) , Pulp. Chem. Assoc. Inc., 1989, Chapter 23” .
Preferentially, the polymerized fatty acid contains less than 20%by weight of acid trimer and at least 80%by weight of acid dimer relative to the total weight of the polymerized fatty acid. More particularly, the acid dimer constitutes essentially all of the polymerized fatty acid.
Among the unsaturated fatty acids used to form the polymerized fatty acid, mention may be made of oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid. Use is preferably made of long-chain fatty acid oils which are mixtures of long-chain unsaturated acids obtained by means of a wood-pulp reduction process. Use may also be made of other sources, such as soybeans or canola seeds. The polymerized fatty acid that can be used according to the invention has an acid number of about 180 to 200.
The polymerized fatty acid may be hydrogenated before being used in the resin formation reaction. Hydrogenation makes it possible to obtain a slightly higher melting point of the resin and also a greater stability with respect to oxidation and of the colour in the case of a slightly coloured resin.
Among the polymerized fatty acids and in particular the hydrogenated forms that are commercially available, mention may be made of the product sold under the brand Unidyme by the company Arizona Chemical, the product sold under the brand Pripol 1015 by the company Uniqema, or the product sold under the brand Empol 1008 by the company Cognis.
Use will more particularly be made, as polymerized fatty acid, of a C₃₆ hydrogenated linoleic acid dimer.
In addition to the polymerized fatty acid or reactive equivalents, the diacid may comprise a co-diacid of formula: HOOC-R₁-COOH where R₁ is a C₄-C₁₉, preferably C₄-C₁₂ and more preferentially C₄-C₈ hydrocarbon-based compound.
The carbon atoms may be arranged in linear, branched or cyclic form and an unsaturation may be present between two adjacent atoms. R₁ may be aliphatic or aromatic.
The diamine reagent possesses two amine groups which are preferably primary amines and represented by the formula: HN (R_2a) --R₂--N (R_2a) H in which R₂a denotes hydrogen or an alkyl group or else forms, with R₂ or another radical R_2a, a heterocycle.
As diamine, use will more particularly be made of ethylenediamine, i.e.: R_2a is hydrogen and R₂ is-CH₂-CH₂-.
The diamines other than ethylenediamine will be denoted in the text as co-diamines. When they are present, the co-diamines are used in low amounts relative to the ethylenediamine.
The monoalcohol may be represented by the formula R₃-OH where R₃ is preferably a hydrocarbon-based group having at least 10 carbon atoms. Thus, the monoalcohol may be described as a monohydric alcohol.
According to one particular form, R₃ is a C₁₀-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based group, preferentially a C₁₂-C₂₄ hydrocarbon-based group and even more particularly a C₁₈ hydrocarbon-based radical. For the purposes of the invention, the term “C₁₀-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based group” is intended to mean any group having at least 10 carbon atoms but at most 30 carbon atoms. The carbon atoms may be arranged in a linear, branched or cyclic manner and the hydrocarbon-based radical may be saturated or unsaturated.
According to one particularly preferred form, R₃ is linear and the hydroxyl group is located on an end carbon: i.e. the monoalcohol is primary. Among the monoalcohols that can be used to prepare the ETPEA resin, mention may be made of 1-dodecanol, 1-tetradecanol, 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol) , 1-octadecanol (stearyl alcohol) , 1-eicosanol (arachidyl alcohol) and 1-docosanol (behenyl alcohol) .
The reactive monoalcohol may contain an alkylene group, i.e. an alkyl group with an unsaturation between two adjacent carbon atoms.
Another reactive monoalcohol that can be used according to the invention may be a Guerbet alcohol of formula: H-C (R_a) (R_b) -CH₂-OH where R_a and R_b, which may be identical or different, preferably denote a C₆-C₁₂ hydrocarbon-based group. Guerbet alcohols are in particular described in the book "Dictionary For Auxiliaries For Pharmacy, Cosmetics And Related Fields, " H.P. Fiedler, 3rd Ed., 1989, Cantor Aulendorf. 45 Hexadecyloctadecanol-2 having 24 carbon atoms will more particularly be used.
Another type of reactive monoalcohol that can be used according to the invention is a linear alcoholic wax. Among the linear alcoholic waxes available on the market, mention may be made of the products sold under the brand Unilin by the company Petrolite Corporation (Tulsa, Okla. ) . These linear alcoholic waxes are in general a mixture of linear alcohols having at least 20 carbon atoms and more particularly at least 24 carbon atoms.
The Vapour-Pressure Osmometry (VPO) technique can be used to characterize the number-average molecular weight of a mixture of alcohols. According to one particular form, the mixture of linear monoalcoholic waxes has a number-average molecular weight measured by VPO of approximately 200 to approximately 800, preferably of approximately 300 to approximately 600. A pure C22 monohydric linear alcohol has a molecular weight measured by VPO of 326.
In accordance with the present invention, use will preferably be made of a pure monoalcohol or a mixture of linear monoalcohols such as, for example: 1-eicosanol (C₂₀) , 1-docosanol (C₂₂, behenyl alcohol) , dotriacontanol (C₃₂) , tetratriacontanol (C₃₄) , pentatriacontanol (C₃₅) , tetracontanol (C₄₀) , tetraacontanol (C₄₄) , dopentaacontanol (C₅₄) , tetrahexaacontanol (C₆₄) , dohexaacontanol (C₇₂) .
Use will more particularly be made of 1-octadecanol, more commonly known as stearyl alcohol.
A final ingredient required for the preparation of the ETPEA resin is a polyol or polyhydric alcohol. The structure of the polyol is: R₄ (OH) _n where R₄ denotes an n-valent organic group. For example, R₄ may be a C₂-C₂₀ organic group with no hydroxyl substitution. As another example, R₄ may be a hydrocarbon-based group. n is in general equal to 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6.
Among the polyols that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, neopentyl glycol, tris (hydroxylmethyl) methanol, dipentaerythritol and tripentaerythritol.
Neopentyl glycol will more particularly be used.
Reagents that are equivalents of the diacids and/or reagents that are equivalent to the diamines may also be used to prepare the ETPEA resin. For example, diesters may be used in place of some or all the diacids in the reaction forming the ETPEA resin. The term “diester” is intended to mean any product of esterification of a diacid with molecules comprising a hydroxyl function. Such diesters are preferably obtained from relatively volatile molecules containing hydroxyl functions in order for said molecules to be able to easily be removed from the reaction vessel after the reaction of the monoalcohol and/or of the diamine with the diester. A lower diester, in particular a product of esterification or diesterification of a diacid as defined above with a C₁-C₄ monoalcohol (i.e.: methanol, ethanol, propanol and butanol) , may be used in place of some or all the diacids in the reaction forming the ETPEA resin. Acid halides may also be used in place of some or all the diacids in the reaction forming the ETPEA resin. Likewise the monoalcohol can be esterified with a volatile diacid, for example: acetic acid, before being used in the reaction forming the ETPEA resin. Such equivalent reagents are not however preferential in so far as they introduce reactive groups into the reaction vessel.
Preferentially, the carboxylic acid equivalents must be substantially equal to the combined equivalents of hydroxyl introduced by the monoalcohol and the polyol and of amine introduced by the diamine. In other words, each of the acid numbers and amine numbers of the resin in accordance with the invention must preferably be less than 25, more preferentially less than 15 and more particularly less than 10, more particularly less than 5.
When a co-diacid is used to prepare the ETPEA resin, the co-diacid must not represent more than 50%of the carboxylic acid equivalents in the reaction mixture. In other words, the co-diacid represents from 0 to 50%equivalents, more preferentially from 0 to 25%and even more preferentially from 0 to 10%of the acid equivalents in the reaction mixture.
When a co-diamine is used to prepare the ETPEA resin, the co-diacid must not represent more than 50%of the carboxylic acid equivalents in the reaction mixture. In other words, the co-diamine represents from 0 to 50%equivalents, more preferentially from 0 to 25%and even more preferentially from 0 to 10%of the acid equivalents in the reaction mixture.
The hydroxyl equivalents originating from the polyol are preferably less than or equal to 50%relative to all the hydroxyl equivalents and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol and diamine reagents. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the hydroxyl equivalents originating from the polyol may be less than or equal to 40%, or less than or equal to 30%or even less than or equal to 20%relative to all the hydroxyl equivalents and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol and diamine reagents.
The amine equivalents preferably range from 0.3 to 0.75 relative to all the hydroxyl equivalents and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol and diamine reagents. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the hydroxyl equivalents originating from the polyol range from 0.05 to 0.45 relative to all the hydroxyl equivalents and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol and diamine reagents. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the hydroxyl equivalents originating from the monoalcohol range from 0.20 to 0.45 relative to all the hydroxyl equivalents and amine equivalents introduced by the polyol, monoalcohol and diamine reagents.
Preferably, the ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymer selected from copolymers of hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, of ethylenediamine, of C2-C6 glycol and of C10-C22 monoalcohol.
Use will more particularly be made of an ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymer having the INCI name Polyamide-8 which is a copolymer of hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, of ethylenediamine, of neopentyl glycol and of stearyl alcohol. This copolymer is in particular sold under the trade nameLP-20-PA sold by the company Croda.
Optionally hydrogenated block copolymers of styrene and olefin
Examples of olefins that may be used include ethylenic carbide monomers especially containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations, containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butylene, butadiene and isoprene.
The polymeric thickener of block polymer type is preferably hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.
In particular, said thickener is an optionally hydrogenated copolymer, bearing styrene blocks and ethylene and/or C2-C5 and especially C2-C4 alkylene blocks, and especially butylene or propylene.
In a particular embodiment the thickener is a diblock copolymer, which is preferably hydrogenated, bearing styrene blocks and ethylene/C2-C4 alkylene blocks, more particularly a diblock copolymer, which is preferably hydrogenated, bearing styrene blocks and ethylene/propylene (INCI: stryrene/isoprene copolymer) or ethylene/butylene blocks. Mention may also be made of diblock copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, bearing styrene and ethylene/butadiene blocks. Such diblock polymers are commercially available under the name Kraton G1701 by the company Kraton Polymers.
The thickener may also be a triblock copolymer, which is preferably hydrogenated, selected from styrene-ethylene/propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene/butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers and styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. Such triblock polymers are especially commercially available under the namesG1650, G1652, D1101, D1102 andD1160 by the company Kraton Polymers.
A mixture of hydrogenated styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene-propylene-styrene hydrogenated star polymer may also be used, such a mixture especially being in isododecane. Such mixtures are sold, for example, by the company Penreco under the trade namesM5960 andM5670.
Preferably, the thickeners are selected from copolymers of hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, of ethylenediamine, of C2-C6 glycol and of C10-C22 monoalcohol, diblock copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, bearing styrene blocks and ethylene/C2-C4 alkylene blocks, more particularly copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, bearing styrene blocks and ethylene/ethylene or ethylene/propylene or ethylene/butylene blocks, and mixtures thereof.
More preferably, the thickener is selected from hydrogenated styrene/isoprene copolymer, hydrogenated styrene/butadiene copolymer, styrene/isoprene copolymer, Bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
The thickener suitable for the present invention is highly compatible with the oil used in the composition of the present invention so as to deliver a proper viscosity.
Advantageously, the thickener is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Linear C15-C19 alkanes and branched C17-C19 alkanes
In some preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises a linear C15-C19 alkane and/or a branched C17-C19 alkane, in particular, abranched C17-C19 alkane.
Advantageously, if presents, the linear C15-C19 alkane and/or branched C17-C19 alkane, in particular, branched C17-C19 alkane, is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 2 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt. %to 25 wt. %, more preferably from 10 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cosmetic active ingredients
Optionally, the composition of the present invention may comprise other cosmetic active ingredient for conditioning the hair, for example oil soluble plant extracts.
If presents, advantageously, the cosmetic active ingredient is present in amount ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 2 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Adjuvants
The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other ingredients, such as fragrances, and so on.
The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a silicone free composition for conditioning the hair comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) from 20 wt. %to 80 wt. %of at least one volatile alkane selected from linear C₇-C₁₄ alkanes, branched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes and mixtures thereof;
b) from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %of oleyl alcohol and from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one fatty acid ester oil selected from ethyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropy stearate, isopropyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof; and
c) from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %of at least one thickener selected from hydrogenated styrene/isoprene copolymer, hydrogenated styrene/butadiene copolymer, styrene/isoprene copolymer, Bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer and mixtures thereof.
Preparation and use
The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to c) , as essential ingredients, as well as additional ingredient (s) , as explained above.
The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
Although the composition according to the present invention does not comprise silicone, it can deliver similar wet/dry cosmeticity/conditioning effect as compared to silicone base oil compositions.
The composition according to the present invention can be used as a conditioning leave-on or rinse-off product for haircare.
According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a process for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be interpreted as limiting the scope.
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Invention Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-3
Leave-on oils according to invention examples (IE. ) 1-5 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of ingredients with regard to the total weight of each leave-on oil, unless otherwise indicated) .
Table 2
Polyamide-8*is Bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer.
Compositions of invention examples 1-5 represent compositions according to the present invention.
Compositions of comparative examples 1-2 comprise dextrin palmitate instead of a thickener according to the present invention.
Composition of comparative example 3 comprises a silicone oil.
Preparation procedure:
Each leave-on oil was prepared as follows, taking that of invention example 1 as an example:
- adding oleyl alcohol and isopropyl isostearate, hydrogenated styrene/isoprene copolymer into a beaker, heating to 80℃ with stirring until a homogenous mixture was obtained; and
- adding undecane (and) tridecane and isohexadecane into the beaker at room temperature with stirring to obtain a homogenous composition.
Evaluation:
The leave-on oils prepared above were evaluated in terms of stability, conditioning effect, and lightness sensory as follows.
Stability
The appearance and odor of each composition prepared above was checked after storage at 10℃ for 24 hours, 4℃ for 1 or 2 months, 45℃ for 1 or 2 months, and 50℃ for 1 or 2 weeks.
If there is no obvious difference in terms of appearance and odor after storage at all conditions, then the composition tested was considered being stable, otherwise, the composition tested was considered being unstable.
Conditioning effect and lightness sensory
Hair swatches were washed with a silicone-free shampoo (0.4 g/per gram of hair swatch) , and dried with a towel until there is no dripping water.
Next, 0.1-0.12g of each leave-on oil obtained above was applied on 6 g hair swatch evenly from middle to hair tips, respectively, and then blow-dried.
Then the conditioning effect and lightness sensory delivered by each leave-on oil were ranked from 1 to 8 by 4 trained experts, wherein rank 1 represents the best, and rank 8 represents the worst.
The results of stability, conditioning effect, and lightness sensory were summarized in Table 3.
Table 3
From Table 3, it can be seen that each leave-on oil of invention examples 1-5 are stable, and can deliver good conditioning effect and lightness sensory, i.e. does not deliver a greasy sensory.

Claims

A silicone free composition for conditioning the hair comprising:

a) at least one volatile alkane;

b) at least one fatty substance selected from unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, fatty acid ester oils, and mixtures thereof; and

c) at least one thickener selected from ester-terminated poly (ester-amide) polymers, optionally hydrogenated block, especially diblock or triblock, copolymers of styrene and olefin, preferably containing one ortwo ethylenic unsaturations, and/or preferably containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to claim 1, wherein the volatile alkane is selected from linear C₇-C₁₄ alkanes, branched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1 or 2, wherein the volatile alkane is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 80 wt. %, more preferably from 20 wt. %to 80 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the unsaturated fatty compound is selected from unsaturated fatty alcohol comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, preferably from unsaturated fatty monoalcohol comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, more preferably, from linear unsaturated fatty monoalcohol comprising a C14-C20 carbon chain, most preferably, the unsaturated fatty compound is oleyl alcohol.
Composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the fatty acid ester oil is selected from liquid monoesters of saturated or unsaturated, branched C₃-C₂₂ aliphatic monoacids and of saturated or unsaturated, branched C₂-C₂₀ aliphatic monoalcohols, preferably, the fatty acid ester oil is selected from liquid monoesters of saturated, linear or branched C₆-C₂₀ aliphatic monoacids and of saturated, branched C₂-C₆ aliphatic monoalcohols.
Composition according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the fatty acid ester oil is selected from esters having the following formula:
R₁-C (=O) -O-R₂

wherein R₁ represents a branched alkyl radical of 3 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably of 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and R₂ represents a branched alkyl radical of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably, the total number of carbon atoms of R₁+R₂ may be 9 or more, preferably 12 or more, more preferably 16 or more, and most preferably 20 or more.
Composition according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the fatty acid ester oil is selected from isohexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropy stearate, isopropyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof, preferably the fatty acid ester oil is isopropyl isostearate.
Composition according to any of claims 1-7, wherein the fatty substance selected from unsaturated fatty compounds comprising a C12-C20 carbon chain, fatty acid ester oils and mixtures thereof is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 40 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, more preferably from 2 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any of claims 1-8, wherein the thickener is selected from:

- resins prepared by reacting a diacid, a diamine, a polyol and a monoalcohol in which: (i) at least 50 equivalent%of said diacid comprises a polymerized fatty acid and (ii) at least 50 equivalent%of said diamine comprises ethylenediamine;

- diblock copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, bearing styrene blocks and ethylene/C2-C4 alkylene blocks, more particularly a diblock copolymer, which is preferably hydrogenated, bearing styrene blocks and ethylene/ethylene or ethylene/propylene or ethylene/butylene blocks;

- diblock copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, bearing styrene and ethylene/butadiene blocks;

- triblock copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, of styrene-ethylene/propylene-styrene, styrene-ethylene/butadiene-styrene, styrene-isoprene-styrene or styrene-butadiene-styrene;

- a mixture of styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene triblock hydrogenated copolymer and of ethylene-propylene-styrene hydrogenated star polymer; and

- mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1-8, wherein the thickener is selected from copolymers of hydrogenated dilinoleic acid, of ethylenediamine, of C2-C6 glycol and of C10-C22 monoalcohol, diblock copolymers, which are preferably hydrogenated, bearing styrene blocks and ethylene/C2-C4 alkylene blocks and mixtures thereof, preferably, the thickener is selected from hydrogenated styrene/isoprene copolymer, hydrogenated styrene/butadiene copolymer, styrene/isoprene copolymer, Bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any of claims 1-10, wherein the thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 20 wt. %to 80 wt. %of at least one volatile alkane selected from selected from linear C₇-C₁₄ alkanes, branched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes and mixtures thereof;

b) from 2 wt. %to 10 wt%of oleyl alcohol and from 2 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one fatty acid ester oil selected from ethyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropy stearate, isopropyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof; and

c) from 2 wt. %to 8 wt. %of at least one thickener selected from hydrogenated styrene/isoprene copolymer, hydrogenated styrene/butadiene copolymer, styrene/isoprene copolymer, and Bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer.
Composition according to any of claims 1-12, which further comprises a linear C15-C19 alkane and/or a branched C17-C19, in particular, abranched C17-C19 alkane, in an amount ranging from 2 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt. %to 25 wt. %, more preferably from 10 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
A process for conditioning the hair comprising applying a composition as defined in any of claims 1-13 onto the hair.