EP4687829A1

EP4687829A1 - Composition for caring for keratin materials

Info

Publication number: EP4687829A1
Application number: EP23929384.8A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Yangdong CHEN; Hongling Xu; Xiaoming Huang; Zhiming Zhang
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2023-03-31
Filing date: 2023-03-31
Publication date: 2026-02-11
Also published as: WO2024197798A1; FR3147107A1; CN120693145A

Abstract

Provided herein is a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising: (i) at least one Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract; (ii) at least one compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof; (iii) at least one divalent metal salt; and (iv) at least one monosaccharide selected from mannose, glucose, galactose, fructose, and combinations thereof. It also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying said composition to the keratin materials.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials.

BACKGROUND ART

Human skin is constituted of three compartments, namely a superficial compartment, which is the epidermis, the dermis and a deep compartment, which is the hypodermis.
The dermis is mainly constituted of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix (ECM) . This extracellular matrix is constituted of various macromolecules responsible for the mechanical strength of the skin, its suppleness, its tonicity and its elasticity, and also for physiologically important functions (hydration, thermoregulation and regulation of the permeability of the skin) . These macromolecules include, in particular, collagens, elastin and glycoconjugates (glycoproteins and proteoglycans) .
Collagens represent 70%of the proteins of the ECM. Naturally, collagens are constantly renewed, but this renewal decreases with age, which leads to thinning of the dermis.
It is also known that prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, particularly to type A and B radiation, has the effect of stimulating the expression of collagenases, particularly of MMPI (also referred to as matrix metalloproteinase 1 or else interstitial collagenase) , constituting one of the components of photoinduced or non-photoinduced skin aging.
A wide variety of cosmetic products have been used to care for the skin, for example, to resist the ageing of the skin. However, some cosmetic products do not deliver a good skin sensory after application.
Thus, there is still a need to formulate a composition for caring for the skin, which can effectively resist skin ageing and deliver a good skin sensory after application.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
An object of the present invention is thus to develop a composition for caring for the skin, which can effectively resist skin ageing and deliver a good skin sensory after application.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic process for caring for the skin.
The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate compositions for caring for the skin, which can effectively resist skin ageing and deliver a good skin sensory after application.
Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising:
(i) at least one Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract;
(ii) at least one compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof;
(iii) at least one divalent metal salt; and
(iv) at least one monosaccharide selected from mannose, glucose, galactose, fructose, and combinations thereof.
The inventors have found that the composition of the present invention can inhibit MMP-1 production, and effectively resist skin ageing.
The inventors have also found that the composition of the present invention also can deliver a good smoothness and softness sensory.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached figures, wherein:
Fig. 1 shows MMP-1 levels of different groups of cells in an in-vitro test.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and…" and "ranging from... to... " .
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about" . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.
According to the first aspect, a composition of the present invention comprises:
(i) at least one Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract;
(ii) at least one compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof;
(iii) at least one divalent metal salt; and
(iv) at least one monosaccharide selected from mannose, glucose, galactose, fructose, and combinations thereof.
Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract.
Preferably, the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract is an extract of the yeast cells of Saccharomyces cerevisiae.
The extract may exclude any other part or element of the yeast such as the wall or the membranes of the yeast.
The extract can be obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a. solubilization of at least 50 g/L of Saccharomyces cerevisiae in water, by mechanical homogenization, b. separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, c. ultrafiltration and filtrate recovery, and d. molecular sorting, in particular by membrane filtration.
The extract may comprise a protein fraction. The distribution and quantity of the protein fraction can be determined by measuring total nitrogen according to the KJELDHAL method (reference: Official method of analysis of the A.O.C., 12th ed. W Horwitz, E.D., New-York, 15-60, 1975) .
The extract can be in liquid form or dry form.
As an example of commercial products of Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, mention can be made of SACCHAROMYCES CEREVISIAE EXTRACT sold under the name ofby the company SILAB.
Advantageously, the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of dry matter ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 0.375 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 0.175 wt. %, more preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof.
Vitamin B3, also called vitamin PP, is a compound of the following formula (A) :
in which R may be -CONH₂ (niacinamide) , -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin) , or CH₂OH (nicotinyl alcohol) , -CO-NH-CH₂-COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (niconityl hydroxamic acid) .
Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of-CONH₂, products from reaction with carboxylic acids and amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and of carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicyclic acid, glycolid acid or palmitic acid.
Mention may also be made of the following derivatives: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N, N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl) nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.
Other vitamin B3 derivatives that may also be mentioned include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as the salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.
In some embodiments, the compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof is selected from niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, nicotinuric acid, niconityl hydroxamic acid, nicotinic acid esters, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and of carboxylic acids, 2-chloronicotinamide, 6- methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N, N-dimethylnicotinamide, N- (hydroxymethyl) nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate, and combination thereof.
In some preferred embodiments, the compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof is selected from niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, nicotinuric acid, niconityl hydroxamic acid, and combination thereof.
In a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises niacinamide.
Advantageously, the compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 7 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Divalent metal salts
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one divalent metal salt.
The divalent metal salt comprises a metal ion M1²⁺. Preferably, M1²⁺ is selected from Mg²⁺, Ca²⁺, Zn²⁺, and Cu²⁺.
The divalent metal salt is selected from metal salts of an organic acid or an inorganic acid.
As example of organic acid, mention can be made of ascorbic acid, formic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid, aspartic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, oxalic acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, glyoxylic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, sebacic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, tricarboxylic acid, glutaric acid, glucaric acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, phenol sulfonic acid, salicylic acid, etc.
As example of inorganic acid, mention can be made of sulfuric acid, carbonic acid, silicic acid, hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, phosphoric acid, etc.
Preferably, divalent metal salts of an inorganic acid are selected from metal chlorides, sulfates, nitrates, carbonates and hydrogen carbonates, phosphates, silicates, and mixtures thereof, wherein the metal is selected from Mg, Ca, Zn, and Cu.
More preferably, divalent metal salts of an inorganic acid are selected from calcium chloride, calcium sulfate, calcium nitrate, calcium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, calcium phosphate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfate, zinc nitrate, zinc carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, zinc phosphate, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium nitrate, magnesium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, magnesium phosphate, copper chloride, copper sulfate, copper nitrate, copper carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, copper phosphate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, divalent metal salts of an organic acid are selected from metal ascorbates, formates, acetates, glycolates, aspartates, gluconates, lactates, mandelates, oxalates, maleates, malonates, glyoxylates, succinates, adipates, fumarates, sebacates, citrates, tartarates, malates, tricarboxylates, glutarates, glucarates, pyrrolidone carboxylates, phenolsulfonate, salicylates, and mixtures thereof, wherein the metal is selected from Mg, Ca, Zn, and Cu.
More preferably, divalent metal salts of an organic acid are selected from magnesium gluconate, magnesium aspartate, magnesium PCA (Magnesium pyrrolidone carboxylate) , magnesium acetate, calcium PCA (calcium pyrrolidone carboxylate) , zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc phenolsulfonate, zinc salicylate, zinc PCA (zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate) , zinc citrate, zinc ascorbate, zinc aspartate, copper PCA (copper pyrrolidone carboxylate) , copper gluconate, copper aspartate, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the divalent metal salt is selected from magnesium gluconate, magnesium aspartate, magnesium PCA, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, calcium PCA, calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and a mixture thereof.
Advantageously, the divalent metal salt is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.00001 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.00005 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.0001 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Monosaccharides
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one at least one monosaccharide selected from mannose, glucose, galactose, fructose, and combinations thereof.
In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises mannose, i.e., the compound of the following formula:
In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises glucose, i.e., the compound of the following formula:
In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises galactose, i.e., the compound of the following formula:
In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises fructose, i.e., the compound of the following formula:
Preferably, the composition comprises glucose.
Advantageously, the monosaccharide is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
The composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
Said aqueous phase comprises water.
Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50 wt. %to 98 wt. %, preferably from 60 wt. %to 95 wt. %, more preferably from 70 wt. %to 93 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25℃) selected from monoalcohols, glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof, so as to provide a hydration effect.
If presents, advantageously, the organic solvent miscible with water selected from monoalcohols, glycols and polyols is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase of the composition of the present invention comprises water and glycerin.
Oily phase
The composition of the present invention may comprise an oily phase.
The oily phase contains at least one oil, notably a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.
The term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
The term “non-volatile” refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
The oily phase may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.
They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-O group.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
If presents, advantageously, the oily phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 2.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
Additional cosmetic active ingredients
The composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the cosmetic active compound of formula (I) as defined previously.
As examples of cosmetic active ingredient, mention can be made of moisturizing agents; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin B5 (panthenol) , and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; brightening agents; tightening agents; peeling agents; moisturizing and hydration agents (HA) , repairing and soothing agents; other anti-aging agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtu res thereof.
It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
Additional adjuvants or additives
The composition of the present invention may comprise may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance fragrances, chelating agents, preserving agents and bactericides, surfactants, thickeners, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.
The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
(i) from 0.05 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %of at least one Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract;
(ii) from 0.5 wt. %to 3 wt. %of niacinamide;
(iii) from 0.0001 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %of at least one divalent metal salt is selected from magnesium gluconate, magnesium aspartate, magnesium PCA, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, calcium PCA, calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and a mixture thereof; and
(iv) from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of glucose.
Galenic form and method
The composition of the present invention is in the form of emulsion, cream, lotion, or hydrogel.
The composition of the present invention can be used for caring for keratin materials.
According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.
In some embodiments, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for antiaging of keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.
In particular, the keratin material is the skin.
EXAMPLES
The examples that follow are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Invention Example 1 and comparative examples 1-4
Compositions of invention example (IE) 1 and comparative examples (CE) 1-4 were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given in%by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
Table 2
SACCHAROMYCES CEREVISIAE EXTRACT*: the amount indicates that of the dry matter.
Composition of invention example 1 represents composition according to the present invention.
Composition of comparative example 1 does not comprise a divalent metal salt.
Composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract.
Composition of comparative example 3 does not comprise a compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof.
Composition of comparative example 4 does not comprise a monosaccharide selected from mannose, glucose, galactose, fructose, and combination.
Preparation process:
The compositions listed above were prepared as follows:
1) . introducing the components of phase A1 into a main container with mixing and heating to 80℃ for 6 minutes;
2) . introducing the components of phase A2, the components of Phase A3 with mixing, phase by phase to obtain an uniform mixture;
3) . introducing the component of phase B (water) slowly with mixing to dilution; and
4) . when the temperature decreased to about 40℃, introducing the component of phase C, the components of phase D, the components of phase E, and the components of phase F with mixing, phase by phase, to obtain each composition.
Evaluation
In-vitro test
Human primary dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) were seeded in two 24-well plates (3x10⁴/well) and cultured in an incubator with a cellular culture medium (DMEM medium, 10%FBS, called normal culture medium hereafter) at 37℃ for 24 hours. Then the HDFs were divided into five groups and subjected to different treatments as follows.
The first group was treated with 0.3 wt. % (based on the total weight of the culture medium) of composition of comparative example 1 for another 24 hours, then subjected to 10J UVA light, and lastly treated with 0.3 wt. %of composition of comparative example 1 for 48 hours.
The second group was treated with 0.3 wt. %of composition of invention example 1 for another 24 hours, then subjected to 10J UVA light, and lastly treated with 0.3 wt. %of composition of invention example 1 for 48 hours.
The third group (as positive control) was treated with 0.1uM dexamethasone (DT, as positive control) for another 24 hours, then the human primary dermal fibroblasts were subjected to 10J UVA light, and lastly treated with 0.1uM dexamethasone for 48 hours.
The fourth group (as blank control A) was cultured with normal culture medium (i.e., not treated with any composition or dexamethasone) for another 24 hours, not subjected to UVA light, and lastly cultured with normal culture medium for 48hours.
The fifth group (as blank control B) was cultured with normal culture medium (i.e., not treated with any composition or dexamethasone) for another 24 hours, then subjected to UVA light, and lastly cultured with normal culture medium for 48hours.
Table 3 shows grouping with different treatment conditions.
Table 3
Next, the supplements from different groups were collected and MMP-1 levels were tested by ELISA (enzyme linked immunosorbent assay) .
Fig. 1 shows MMP-1 levels of different groups of cells in an in-vitro test.
It can be seen from Fig. 1 that 10J UVA can trigger the MMP-1 increase by 200%, and 0.1μM dexamethasone (DT) can decrease the MMP-1 release obviously as the positive control.
It can be seen from Fig. 1 that composition of inventive example 1 can reverse the MMP-1 release induced by UVA more significantly than composition of comparative example 1.
In-vivo test
10 experts applied two samples (wherein one sample is composition of invention example 1, the other sample is composition of comparative example 1, 2, 3, or4) on the back of hands each time and evaluate the skin finish in terms of softness and smoothness.
As compared with composition of comparative example 1, five experts deem that composition of invention example 1 delivers better softness sensory, four experts deem that there is no difference on softness sensory between the two compositions, and one experts deems that composition of comparative example 1 is better than composition of invention example 1 in terms of softness sensory, while six experts deem that composition of invention example 1 delivers better smoothness sensory, four experts deem that there is no difference on smoothness sensory between the two composition.
As compared with composition of comparative example 2, seven experts deem that composition of invention example 1 delivers better softness sensory, and three experts deem that there is no difference on softness sensory between the two compositions, while all of 10 experts deem that composition of invention example 1 delivers better smoothness sensory.
As compared with composition of comparative example 3, seven experts deem that composition of invention example 1 delivers better softness sensory, and three experts deems that composition of comparative example 3 is better than composition of invention example 1 in terms of softness sensory, while five experts deem that composition of invention example 1 delivers better smoothness sensory, and five experts deem that composition of comparative example 3 is better than composition of invention example 1 in terms of smoothness sensory.
As compared with composition of comparative example 4, six experts deem that composition of invention example 1 delivers better softness sensory and four experts deems that composition of comparative example 4 is better than composition of invention example 1 in terms of softness sensory, while five experts deem that composition of invention example 1 delivers better smoothness sensory and five experts deems that composition of comparative example 4 is better than composition of invention example 1 in terms of smoothness sensory.
It can be seen that composition of invention example 1 delivers significantly better softness and smoothness sensory than compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2, and significantly better softness sensory than composition of comparative example 3, sightly better softness sensory than compositions of comparative example 4.
In summary, composition according to the present invention can inhibit MMP-1 production, therefore can effectively resist skin ageing, meanwhile, it can deliver a deliver a good smoothness and softness sensory.

Claims

A composition for caring for keratin materials comprising:

(i) at least one Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract;

(ii) at least one compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof;

(iii) at least one divalent metal salt; and

(iv) at least one monosaccharide selected from mannose, glucose, galactose, fructose, and combination.
The composition according to claim 1, wherein the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract is an extract of the yeast cells of Saccharomyces cerevisiae..
The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract is present in an amount of dry matter ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 0.375 wt. %, preferably from 0.01 wt. %to 0.175 wt. %, more preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof is selected from niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, nicotinuric acid, niconityl hydroxamic acid, nicotinic acid esters, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and of carboxylic acids, 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N, N-dimethylnicotinamide, N- (hydroxymethyl) nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate, and combination thereof.
The composition of any of claims 1-4, wherein the compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof is selected from niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, nicotinuric acid, niconityl hydroxamic acid, and combination thereof, preferably, the compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof is niacinamide.
The composition of any one of claims 1-5, wherein the compound selected from vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof is present in an amount ranging 0.01 wt. %to 7 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.5 wt. %to 3 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1-6, wherein the divalent metal salt comprises a metal ion M1²⁺ selected from Mg²⁺, Ca²⁺, Zn²⁺, and Cu²⁺.
The composition according to any one of claims 1-7, wherein the divalent metal salt is selected from magnesium gluconate, magnesium aspartate, magnesium PCA, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, calcium PCA, calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and a mixture thereof.
The composition according to any one of claims 1-8, wherein the divalent metal salt is present in an amount ranging from 0.00001 wt. %to 1 wt. %, preferably from 0.00005 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.0001 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1-9, wherein the monosaccharide is glucose.
The composition according to any of claims 1-10, wherein the monosaccharide is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 0.05 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %of at least one Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract;

(ii) from 0.5 wt. %to 3 wt. %of niacinamide;

(iii) from 0.0001 wt. %to 0.1 wt. %of at least one divalent metal salt is selected from magnesium gluconate, magnesium aspartate, magnesium PCA, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, calcium PCA, calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and a mixture thereof; and

(iv) from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of glucose.
A cosmetic method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1 to 12 to the keratin materials.