EP4687810A1 - Preparations comprising hydroxy pinacolone retinoate - Google Patents

Preparations comprising hydroxy pinacolone retinoate

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Publication number
EP4687810A1
EP4687810A1 EP23718183.9A EP23718183A EP4687810A1 EP 4687810 A1 EP4687810 A1 EP 4687810A1 EP 23718183 A EP23718183 A EP 23718183A EP 4687810 A1 EP4687810 A1 EP 4687810A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
peg
sodium
acid
dimethicone
methyl
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP23718183.9A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Dominik Stuhlmann
Maria REICHENBACH
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Symrise AG
Original Assignee
Symrise AG
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Symrise AG filed Critical Symrise AG
Publication of EP4687810A1 publication Critical patent/EP4687810A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/21—Esters, e.g. nitroglycerine, selenocyanates
    • A61K31/215—Esters, e.g. nitroglycerine, selenocyanates of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/075—Ethers or acetals
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/21—Esters, e.g. nitroglycerine, selenocyanates
    • A61K31/215—Esters, e.g. nitroglycerine, selenocyanates of carboxylic acids
    • A61K31/22—Esters, e.g. nitroglycerine, selenocyanates of carboxylic acids of acyclic acids, e.g. pravastatin
    • A61K31/225—Polycarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/33—Heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K31/335—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin
    • A61K31/35—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin having six-membered rings with one oxygen as the only ring hetero atom
    • A61K31/352—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin having six-membered rings with one oxygen as the only ring hetero atom condensed with carbocyclic rings, e.g. methantheline 
    • A61K31/353—3,4-Dihydrobenzopyrans, e.g. chroman, catechin
    • A61K31/355—Tocopherols, e.g. vitamin E
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/671—Vitamin A; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ester of vitamin A acid, ester of retinol, retinol, retinal
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/678—Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2300/00—Mixtures or combinations of active ingredients, wherein at least one active ingredient is fully defined in groups A61K31/00 - A61K41/00
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers

Definitions

  • the present invention refers to the area of cosmetics and concerns new anti-ageing preparations and their cosmetic use for fighting dysfunction of human skin, particular those caused by insufficient organization of the extracellular matrix and the regulation of the respective genes.
  • Retinoids are defined as Vitamin A derivatives based on beta-ionone. They are incorporated via nutrition and occur as Retinol and Retinyl esters of animal origin or as plantbased carotenoids. Retinoids have a plethora of functions depending on tissue and active form. Specifically, their function in distinct tissues depends on the respective retinoid derivative and retinoic acid stereoisomers, e.g., vision functionality is facilitated by retinal binding rhodopsin in the retina cells, whereas tissue differentiation e.g. skin epidermis differentiation is regulated by retinoic acid (RA) stereoisomers binding to their nuclear receptors in the respective tissue and activating gene expression.
  • RA retinoic acid
  • 9-cis RA acts mainly as ligand of the retinoid-X receptors RXRs, whereas Retinoic acid receptors RAR bind 9-cis RA and all-trans RA (ATRA) [1,2],
  • retinoids As retinoids are hydrophobic, they need to be transported in the aqueous tissue environment by retinoid binding proteins which divide according to their appearance in plasma retinol-binding protein (RBP 4), the interstitial retinol-binding protein (RBP 3) and the cellular retinol-binding proteins (CRBPs or RBP 1, RBP2, RBP 5 and RBP 7). These transport proteins not only facilitate the solubilization of retinoids, but also protect them from oxidation. Further, the cellular retinoic acid binding proteins (CRABP) mediate the interaction between RA and its receptors RXR and RAR attributing CRABP co-activator properties.
  • CRABP cellular retinoic acid binding proteins
  • RAR receptors When RAR receptors bind to RA this results in a conformational change allowing heterodimerization with other receptors such as RXRs, LXRs and PPARg among others.
  • This promiscuity of the RAR receptors mediate the pleiotropic effects of RAs in the various tissues.
  • the heterodimer complex subunits are altered with the differentiation status of keratinocytes with RA- Ra/RXRa dominating in the basal layer and RARg/RXRa in the suprabasal layer. Beside its gene expression regulating function, RA exhibits non-transcriptional pathway activity via RAR and RXR activation distinct from there activity as transcription factors.
  • RARa forms a complex with G protein alpha Q (Gocq) coupled receptor in lipid rafts in response to RA and activate p38 MAPK signaling [3] and it binds PI3K subunits RA dependently in order to activate AKT and subsequently ERK1/2 [4],
  • retinoids affect differentiation processes, specifically they are essential for keratinocyte differentiation, where Keratin and heparin-binding epidermal growth factor gene expression thereby orchestrating skin differentiation and barrier function.
  • KRT4 and KRT13 in the suprabasal layer is upregulated and KRT2 which occurs in the stratum spinosum is downregulated.
  • Vitamin A deficiency could result in skin problems and retinoids are used in the treatment of keratiniza- tion disorders, e.g. epidermolysis bullosa simplex and epidermolytic ichthyosis, but also in the treatment of psoriasis and acne vulgaris [6], During aging processes, keratinization and epidermal thickness is impaired.
  • retinoids are widely used in topical formulations to decelerate skin phenotypes including wrinkles, roughness, laxity, sallowness, scaling and dryness.
  • UV-induced photoaging was reported to be improved by the use of retinoids [7], Mechanistically, wrinkles and roughness are mitigated via upregulation of Collagen I, III and IV [8,9], Summarizing, retinoids have been proven to exhibit advantageous effects in the topical treatment of aging phenotypes but also of psoriasis and acne vulgaris. Even though, recent reports focus attention on their limitations and side effects.
  • retinoids One limitation of retinoids is their decreasing bioavailability in prolonged uses due to their increasing inactivation by CYP26 family enzymes and other cytochrome P450 members which are induced by retinoids and their RAR/RXR signaling therewith forming a negative feedback-loop [10], By this effect, a vitamin A deficiency can occur resulting in unfortunate skin conditions. Further detrimental retinoid side effects are characterized as 'retinoid reaction' with burning sensation, pruritus and erythema occurring at the beginning of retinoid use.
  • RNA-Seq tran- scriptomic sequencing
  • WO 2019 185923 A1 suggests blends of retinol and diisopropyl adipate for the improvement of healthy conditions of human skin.
  • WO 2023 025313 A1 discloses a composition comprising hydroxy pinacolone retinoate and retinol propionate.
  • DK 202000134 U3 discloses a skin cream comprising hydroxy pinacolone retinoate.
  • CN 111388348 A (CHANGSHA DAISY BIO TECH CO LTD) concerns a composition comprising a hydroxy pinacolone retinoate and retinyl retinoate.
  • CN 111714400 A provides makeup with anti-ageing and repairing effects and a production method of the makeup with the antiageing and repairing effects.
  • the makeup comprises anti-ageing and repairing substances and basic makeup substances, wherein the anti-ageing and repairing substances are composed of the following components in percentage by weight: 16-20 percent of hydroxy pinacolone retinoate, 13-18 percent of ectoine, 15-18 percent of a honeysuckle polyphenol extract, 10-13 percent of salidroside, 7-10 percent of ellagic acid and the balance polypeptides.
  • CN 114588061 A discloses an anti-aging and wrinkle-removing composition, a preparation method thereof and a skin care product.
  • the anti-aging and wrinkle-removing composition comprises 1-15 percent of an anti-aging component, 1-15 percent of a wrinkle-removing component, 3-30 percent of an auxiliary agent and the balance of water, the anti-aging component comprises an apple seed fermentation extract, a pumpkin seed fermentation extract and a fig fermentation extract; the wrinkle-removing components comprise shea butter, hydroxy pinacolone retinoate and small molecule peptide.
  • CN 115154338 A discloses efficient anti-aging essence and a preparation method thereof.
  • the efficient anti-aging essence comprises grease, a surfactant, an additive, a beneficial agent and water.
  • three-dimensional directional anti-aging is carried out by adopting anti-aging compositions of acetyl hexapeptide-8, hydroxy pinacolone retinoate, spilanthes (spilanthes flow- er/leaf/stem extract, astragalus membranacus root extract ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), VE and safflower seed oil).
  • CN 115569086 A relates to a hydroxy pinacolone retinoate composition
  • a hydroxy pinacolone retinoate composition comprising hydroxy pinacolone retinoate and a grease which is a low-polar or non-polar grease.
  • CN 115177566 A (HANGZHOU SHUCAI NETWORK TECH CO LTD) discloses a synergistic hydroxyl pinacolone retinoate anti-aging essence and a preparation method thereof, the synergistic hydroxyl pinacolone retinoate anti-aging essence comprises lipid, a surfactant, an additive, a beneficial agent and water.
  • KR 20190132197 A (GIGI COSMETIC LABORATORIES LTD) provides a balancing concentrated composition for use in the prevention and treatment of acne, containing an Epilobium angustifolium extract, hydroxy pinacolone retinoate, dextran, and tripeptide-1 as active components.
  • a first object of the present invention refers to a preparation for use as a medicament in the prevention and/or treatment of dysfunctions of human skin, comprising or consisting of
  • the preparation shows advantages over all-trans retinol, as it more increases extracellular matrix organization and collagen formation to strengthen the basal membrane. It seems to be less irritant, as it suppresses interferon mediated signaling.
  • preparations for use according to the present invention are useful in the prevention and/or treatment of dysfunctions of human skin such as for example:
  • Ehlers-Danlos syndromes means a group of 13 genetic connective-tissue disorders in the current classification. Symptoms often include loose joints, joint pain, stretchy velvety skin, and abnormal scar formation. These may be noticed at birth or in early childhood. Complications may include aortic dissectionjoint dislocations, scoliosis, chronic pain, or early osteoarthritis. EDS occurs due to variations of more than 19 genes that are present at birth. The specific gene affected determines the type of EDS. Some cases result from a new variation occurring during early development, while others are inherited in an autosomal dominant or recessive manner. Typically, these variations result in defects in the structure or processing of the protein collagen.
  • Cutis laxa or pachydermatocele is a group of rare connective tissue disorders in which the skin becomes inelastic and hangs loosely in folds. It is characterized by skin that is loose, hanging, wrinkled, and lacking in elasticity. The loose skin can be either generalized or localized. Biopsies have shown reduction and degeneration of dermal elastic fibers in the affected areas of skin. The loose skin is often most noticeable on the face, resulting in a prematurely aged appearance. The affected areas of skin may be thickened and dark. In addition, the joints may be loose (hypermobile) because of lax ligaments and tendons. When cutis laxa is severe, it can also affect the internal organs.
  • the lungs, heart (supravalvular pulmonary stenosis), intestines, or arteries may be affected with a variety of severe impairments. In some cases, hernias and outpouching of the bladder can be observed. Patients can also present with whites of the eyes that are blue
  • Ligamentous laxity is a cause of chronic body pain characterized by loose ligaments. When this condition affects joints in the entire body, it is called generalized joint hypermobility, which occurs in about ten percent of the population, and may be genetic. Loose ligaments can appear in a variety of ways and levels of severity. It also does not always affect the entire body. One could have loose ligaments of the feet, but not of the arms. Someone with ligamentous laxity, by definition, has loose ligaments. Unlike other, more pervasive diseases, the diagnosis does not require the presence of loose tendons, muscles or blood vessels, hyperlax skin or other connective tissue problems.
  • joint laxity In heritable connective tissue disorders associated with joint hypermobility (such as Marfan syndrome and Ehlers-Danlos syndrome types I— III, VII, and XI), the joint laxity usually is apparent before adulthood. However, age of onset and extent of joint laxity are variable in Marfan syndrome, and joint laxity may be confined to the hands alone, as in Ehlers-Danlos syndrome type I. In addition, ligamentous laxity may appear in conjunction with physical coordination conditions such as dyspraxia.
  • HPR Hydroxy pinacolonic acid
  • component a represents a known member of the retinoid family. It is available in the market, typically a 2 wt.-% solution with dimethyl isosorbide. Methods for synthesizing HPR can be found here:
  • esters of dicarboxylic acids follows formula (II)
  • R 1 COO-(CH 2 )n(CH CH)p(CH 2 )qCOOR 2 (II) in which R1 and R2 stand independently from each other for linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, n and q independently from each other for integers from 1 to 6 and p for 0 or 1, on condition that R 1 and R 2 cannot represent hydrogen at the same time.
  • Useful examples encompass, methyl, ethyl, propyl- and isopropyl mono and diesters of succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic, suberic, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • component (b) is diisopropyl adipate.
  • the preparation may contain components (a) and (b) in ratios by weight of from about 1:99 to about 25:75, preferably from about 2:98 to 20:80, and more preferably from about 5:95 to about 10:90.
  • the preparations are used in a pharmaceutical composition, in which component (a) is present in an amount ranging from about 0.0001 to about 2 wt.-percent, preferably from about 0.001 to about 0.5 wt.-percent and more preferably from about 0.01 to about 0.2 wt.-percent.
  • Said pharmaceutical composition may represent a lotion, a cream, a spray or an ointment, all for topical application on human skin.
  • the preparation for use may incorporate antioxidants (component c) which can be selected from the group consisting of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products,
  • the preferred antioxidants are tocopherols.
  • the antioxidants can be present in amounts of from about 0.1 to about 5 wt.-percent, preferably from about 0.5 to about 2 wt.-percent - calculated on the preparation.
  • Another object of the present invention refers to the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of a preparation, comprising
  • composition encompassing a preparation, comprising or consisting of
  • composition can be obtained by simply incorporating the preparation into the cosmetic base under stirring, optional gentle heating until a homogenous product is obtained.
  • the cosmetic composition may be for example a skin care, a personal care, a sun care or a hair care composition (for care of human scalp), comprising the preparations as defined above in a working amount, for example about 0.1 to about 10 % b.w., preferably about 0.5 to about 8 % b.w. and particularly from about 1 to about 5 % b.w. - calculated on the com- position(s).
  • the composition may represent for example a cosmetic cream, lotion, spray, emulsion, ointment, gel or mouse and the like.
  • the preparations according to the invention may contain antidandruff agents, irritation-preventing agents, irritation-inhibiting agents, antioxidants, adstringents, perspirationinhibiting agents, antiseptic agents, ant-statics, binders, buffers, carrier materials, chelating agents, cell stimulants, cleansing agents, care agents, deodorizing agents, antiperspirants, softeners, emulsifiers, enzymes, essential oils, fibres, film-forming agents, fixatives, foamforming agents, foam stabilizers, substances for preventing foaming, foam boosters, gelling agents, gel-forming agents, hair care agents, hair-setting agents, hair-straightening agents, moisture-donating agents, moisturizing substances, moisture-retaining substances, bleaching agents, strengthening agents, stain-removing agents, optically brightening agents, impregnating agents, dirt-repellent agents, friction-reducing agents, lubricants, moisturizing creams, ointments, opacifying agents, plasticizing agents, covering agents, polish
  • cosmetic compositions comprising anti-itching agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-acne agents; sebum-reducing agents physiological cooling agents and/or skin care agents, as described in more detail infra.
  • auxiliaries and additives are anionic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • Non-ionic and cationic surfactants can be also present in the composition. Suitable examples are mentioned along with the paragraph dealing with emulsifiers.
  • Typical examples for anionic and zwitterionic surfactants encompass: Almondami- dopropylamine Oxide, Almondamidopropyl Betaine, Aminopropyl Laurylglutamine, Ammonium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate, Ammonium C12-16 Alkyl Sulfate, Ammonium Capryleth Sulfate, Ammonium Cocomonoglyceride Sulfate, Ammonium Coco-Sulfate, Ammonium Cocoyl Isethionate, Ammonium Cocoyl Sarcosinate, Ammonium C12-15 Pareth Sulfate, Ammonium C9-10 Perfluoroalkylsulfonate, Ammonium Dinonyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, Ammonium Isostearate, Ammonium Laureth-6 Carboxylate, Ammonium Lau- reth-8 Carboxylate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
  • the percentage content of surfactants in the preparations may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight and is preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the preparation.
  • Non-ionic surfactants may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight and is preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the preparation.
  • the added nonionic surfactants are preferably alkoxylated and/or propoxylated, particularly primary alcohols having preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms and an average of 1 to 12 mol ethylene oxide (EO) and/or 1 to 10 mol propylene oxide (PO) per mol alcohol.
  • Cs-Ci6-Alcohol alkoxylates advantageously ethoxylated and/or propoxylated Cio-Cis-alcohol alkoxylates, particularly C12-C14 alcohol alkoxylates, with an ethoxylation degree between 2 and 10, preferably between 3 and 8, and/or a propoxylation degree between 1 and 6, preferably between 1.5 and 5, are particularly preferred.
  • ethoxylation and propoxylation constitute statistical average values that can be a whole or a fractional number for a specific product.
  • Preferred alcohol ethoxylates and propoxylates have a narrowed homolog distribution (narrow range ethoxylates/propoxylates, NRE/NRP).
  • fatty alcohols with more than 12 EO can also be used. Examples of these are (tallow) fatty alcohols with 14 EO, 16 EO, 20 EO, 25 EO, 30 EO or 40 EO.
  • alkylglycosides (APG®).
  • alkyl glycosides that satisfy the general Formula RO(G) X can be added, e.g., as compounds, particularly with anionic surfactants, in which R means a primary linear or methyl-branched, particularly 2-methyl-branched, aliphatic group containing 8 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms and G stands for a glycose unit containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably for glucose.
  • the degree of oligomerization x which defines the distribution of monoglycosides and oligoglycosides, is any number between 1 and 10, preferably between 1.1 and 1.4.
  • Fatty acid ester alkoxylates Another class of preferred nonionic surfactants, which are used either as the sole nonionic surfactant or in combination with other nonionic surfactants, in particular, together with alkoxylated fatty alcohols and/or alkyl glycosides, are alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated or ethoxylated and propoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters preferably containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, more particularly the fatty acid methyl esters which are described, for example, in Japanese Patent Application JP-A-58/217598 or which are preferably produced by the process described in International Patent Application WO-A-90/13533. Methyl esters of C 12-C18 fatty acids containing an average of 3 to 15 EO, particularly containing an average of 5 to 12 EO, are particularly preferred.
  • Nonionic surfactants of the amine oxide type for example, N-coco alkyl-N,N-dimethylamine oxide and N-tallow alkyl-N,N-dihydroxyethylamine oxide, and the fatty acid alkanolamides may also be suitable.
  • the quantity in which these nonionic surfactants are used is preferably no more than the quantity in which the ethoxylated fatty alcohols are used and, particularly no more than half that quantity.
  • gemini surfactants can be considered as further surfactants.
  • such compounds are understood to mean compounds that have two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups per molecule. As a rule, these groups are separated from one another by a "spacer".
  • the spacer is usually a hydrocarbon chain that is intended to be long enough such that the hydrophilic groups are a sufficient distance apart to be able to act independently of one another.
  • These types of surfactants are generally characterized by an unusually low critical micelle concentration and the ability to strongly reduce the surface tension of water. In exceptional cases, however, not only dimeric but also trimeric surfactants are meant by the term gemini surfactants.
  • Suitable gemini surfactants are, for example, sulfated hydroxy mixed ethers according to German Patent Application DE 4321022 A1 or dimer alcohol bis- and trimer alcohol tris sulfates and ether sulfates according to International Patent Application WO 96/23768 A1.
  • Blocked end group dimeric and trimeric mixed ethers according to German Patent Application DE 19513391 A1 are especially characterized by their bifunctionality and multifunctionality.
  • Gemini polyhydroxyfatty acid amides or polyhydroxyfatty acid amides, such as those described in International Patent Applications WO 95/19953 A1, WO 95/19954 A1 and WO 95/19955 A1 can also be used.
  • Cationically active surfactants comprise the hydrophobic high molecular group required for the surface activity in the cation by dissociation in aqueous solution.
  • a group of important representatives of the cationic surfactants are the tetraalkyl ammonium salts of the general formula: (R 1 R 2 R 3 R 4 N + ) X".
  • R1 stands for Ci-Cs alk(en)yl, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 , independently of each other, for alk(en)yl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • X is a counter ion, preferably selected from the group of the halides, alkyl sulfates and alkyl carbonates.
  • Cationic surfactants, in which the nitrogen group is substituted with two long acyl groups and two short alk(en)yl groups are particularly preferred.
  • Esterquats A further class of cationic surfactants particularly useful as co-surfactants for the present invention is represented by the so-called esterquats.
  • Esterquats are generally understood to be quaternised fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. These are known compounds which can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. Reference is made in this connection to International patent application WO 91/01295 A1, according to which triethanolamine is partly esterified with fatty acids in the presence of hy- pophosphorous acid, air is passed through the reaction mixture and the whole is then quaternised with dimethyl sulphate or ethylene oxide.
  • German patent DE 4308794 C1 describes a process for the production of solid esterquats in which the quaterni- sation of triethanolamine esters is carried out in the presence of suitable dispersants, preferably fatty alcohols.
  • esterquats suitable for use in accordance with the invention are products of which the acyl component derives from monocarboxylic acids corresponding to formula RCOOH in which RCO is an acyl group containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and the amine component is triethanolamine (TEA).
  • monocarboxylic acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid and technical mixtures thereof such as, for example, so- called head-fractionated fatty acid.
  • Esterquats of which the acyl component derives from monocarboxylic acids containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms are preferably used.
  • esterquats are those of which the acyl component derives from dicarboxylic acids like malonic acid, succinic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, sorbic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebac- ic acid and/or dodecanedioic acid, but preferably adipic acid.
  • dicarboxylic acids like malonic acid, succinic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, sorbic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebac- ic acid and/or dodecanedioic acid, but preferably adipic acid.
  • esterquats of which the acyl component derives from mixtures of monocarboxylic acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and adipic acid are preferably used.
  • the molar ratio of mono and dicarboxylic acids in the final esterquat may be in the range from 1 :99 to 99:1 and is preferably in the range from 50:50 to 90:10 and more particularly in the range from 70:30 to 80:20.
  • other suitable esterquats are quaternized ester salts of mono-/dicarboxylic acid mixtures with diethanolalkyamines or 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines.
  • the esterquats may be obtained both from fatty acids and from the corresponding triglycerides in admixture with the corresponding dicarboxylic acids.
  • Betaines Amphoteric or ampholytic surfactants possess a plurality of functional groups that can ionize in aqueous solution and thereby— depending on the conditions of the medium— lend anionic or cationic character to the compounds (see DIN 53900, July 1972). Close to the isoelectric point (around pH 4), the amphoteric surfactants form inner salts, thus becoming poorly soluble or insoluble in water. Amphoteric surfactants are subdivided into ampholytes and betaines, the latter existing as zwitterions in solution. Ampholytes are amphoteric electrolytes, i.e. compounds that possess both acidic as well as basic hydrophilic groups and therefore behave as acids or as bases depending on the conditions.
  • betaines are known surfactants which are mainly produced by carboxyalkylation, preferably carboxymethylation, of amine compounds.
  • the starting materials are preferably condensed with halocarboxylic acids or salts thereof, more particularly sodium chloroacetate, one mole of salt being formed per mole of betaine.
  • halocarboxylic acids or salts thereof more particularly sodium chloroacetate
  • unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid for example, is also possible.
  • betaines are the carboxy alkylation products of secondary and, in particular, tertiary amines which correspond to formula R 1 R 2 R 3 N-(CH2) q COOX where R 1 is a an alkyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R 3 is an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, q is a number of 1 to 6 and X is an alkali and/or alkaline earth metal or ammonium.
  • Typical examples are the carboxymethylation products of hexylmethylamine, hexyldimethylamine, octyldimethylamine, decyldimethylamine, Ci2/i4-cocoalkyldimethyl- amine, myristyldimethylamine, cetyldimethylamine, stearyldimethylamine, stearylethylmethyl- amine, oleyldimethylamine, Ci6/i8-tallowalkyldimethylamine and their technical mixtures, and particularly dodecyl methylamine, dodecyl dimethylamine, dodecyl ethylmethylamine and technical mixtures thereof.
  • Alkylamido betaines are the carboxyalkylation products of amidoamines corresponding to formula R 1 CO(R 3 )(R 4 )-NH-(CH2) P -N-(CH2) q COOX in which R 1 CO is an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 or 1 to 3 double bonds, R 2 is hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R 3 is an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, p is a number from 1 to 6, q is a number from 1 to 3 and X is an alkali and/or alkaline earth metal or ammonium.
  • Typical examples are reaction products of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, like for example caproic acid, caprylic acid, caprinic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linolic acid linoleic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and their technical mixtures with N,N-dimethylaminoethylamine, N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine, N,N-diethylaminoethylamine und N,N-diethylami- nopropylamine, which are condensed with sodium chloroacetate.
  • the commercially available products include Dehyton® K and Dehyton® PK (Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co., KG) as well
  • Imidazolines Other suitable starting materials for the betaines to be used for the purposes of the invention are imidazolines. These substances are also known and may be obtained, for example, by cyclizing condensation of 1 or 2 moles of Cg’Czz fatty acids with polyfunctional amines, such as for example aminoethyl ethanolamine (AEEA) or diethylenetriamine. The corresponding carboxyalkylation products are mixtures of different open-chain betaines. Typical examples are condensation products of the above- mentioned fatty acids with AEEA, preferably imidazolines based on lauric acid, which are subsequently betainised with sodium chloroacetate. The commercially available products include Dehyton® G (Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co., KG)
  • Suitable oil bodies which form constituents of the O/W emulsions, are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of linear Cg-C22-fatty acids with linear or branched Cg-C22-fatty alcohols or esters of branched Cg-C 13-carboxylic acids with linear or branched Cg-C 22-fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, steary
  • esters of linear Cg-C22-fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C18-C38- alkylhydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched Cg-C 22-fatty alcohols, in particular Dioctyl Malate, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as, for example, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C& -C -fatty acids, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on Cg-C -fatty acids, esters of C&- C22-fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C2- C -dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon
  • Finsolv® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicone methicone grades, etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • dicaprylyl ether such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicone methicone grades, etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalen
  • non-ionic or cationic surfactants may also be added to the preparations as emulsifiers, including for example:
  • polyol esters and, in particular, polyglycerol esters such as, for example, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate isostearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes are also suitable;
  • the addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or onto castor oil are known commercially available products. They are homologue mixtures of which the average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio between the quantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are known as lipid layer enhancers for cosmetic formulations.
  • the preferred emulsifiers are described in more detail as follows:
  • Partial glycerides Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are stearic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid diglyceride, hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric acid diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid monogly
  • Sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan ses- quiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquieru- cate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquiricino- leate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan di hydroxystea rate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritart
  • Polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl- 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan® Gl 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Poly- glyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Beilina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul®
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylol propane or penta erythritol with lauric acid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide.
  • Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides. Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, monoglycosides, in which a cyclic sugar residue is gly- cosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol, as well as oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
  • Cationically active surfactants comprise the hydrophobic high molecular group required for the surface activity in the cation by dissociation in aqueous solution.
  • a group of important representatives of the cationic surfactants are the tetraalkyl ammonium salts of the general formula: (R 1 R 2 R 3 R 4 N + ) X".
  • R1 stands for Ci-Cs alk(en)yl, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 , independently of each other, for alk(en)yl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • X is a counter ion, preferably selected from the group of the halides, alkyl sulfates and alkyl carbonates.
  • Cationic surfactants, in which the nitrogen group is substituted with two long acyl groups and two short alk(en)yl groups are particularly preferred.
  • Esterquats A further class of cationic surfactants particularly useful as co-surfactants for the present invention is represented by the so-called esterquats.
  • Esterquats are generally understood to be quaternised fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. These are known compounds which can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. Reference is made in this connection to International patent application WO 91/01295 A1, according to which triethanolamine is partly esterified with fatty acids in the presence of hy- pophosphorous acid, air is passed through the reaction mixture and the whole is then quaternised with dimethyl sulphate or ethylene oxide.
  • German patent DE 4308794 C1 describes a process for the production of solid esterquats in which the quaterni- sation of triethanolamine esters is carried out in the presence of suitable dispersants, preferably fatty alcohols.
  • esterquats suitable for use in accordance with the invention are products of which the acyl component derives from monocarboxylic acids corresponding to formula RCOOH in which RCO is an acyl group containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and the amine component is triethanolamine (TEA).
  • monocarboxylic acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid and technical mixtures thereof such as, for example, so- called head-fractionated fatty acid.
  • Esterquats of which the acyl component derives from monocarboxylic acids containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms are preferably used.
  • esterquats are those of which the acyl component derives from dicarboxylic acids like malonic acid, succinic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, sorbic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebac- ic acid and/or dodecanedioic acid, but preferably adipic acid.
  • dicarboxylic acids like malonic acid, succinic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, sorbic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebac- ic acid and/or dodecanedioic acid, but preferably adipic acid.
  • esterquats of which the acyl component derives from mixtures of monocarboxylic acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and adipic acid are preferably used.
  • the molar ratio of mono and dicarboxylic acids in the final esterquat may be in the range from 1 :99 to 99:1 and is preferably in the range from 50:50 to 90:10 and more particularly in the range from 70:30 to 80:20.
  • other suitable esterquats are quaternized ester salts of mono-/dicarboxylic acid mixtures with diethanolalkyamines or 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines.
  • the esterquats may be obtained both from fatty acids and from the corresponding triglycerides in admixture with the corresponding dicarboxylic acids.
  • Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acid alkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.
  • the consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerol poly-12- hydroxystea rates is preferably used.
  • Suitable thickeners are polymeric thickeners, such as Aerosil® types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tylo- ses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example Carbo- pols® [Goodrich] or Synthalens® [Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
  • Aerosil® types hydrophilic silicas
  • Suitable film formers encompass the following species:
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose obtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400®, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat® L, BASF), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®, Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with di
  • Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl ace- tate/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamido- propyl trimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide/methyl methacry- late/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrroli- done/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprol
  • Suitable pearlising waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially cocofatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty compounds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which contain in all at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearylether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols containing 2 to 15 carbon atom
  • Suitable silicones can be chosen from the group consisting of: Acefylline Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Acetylmethionyl Methylsilanol Elastinate Acrylates/Behenyl, Acry- late/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Behenyl Methacrylate/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Acry- lates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates/Dimethicone Methacrylate/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Dimethiconol Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acry- late/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Octylacrylamide/Diphenyl Amodimethi-
  • UV filters cited below which can be used within the context of the present invention are preferred but naturally are not limiting. UV filters which are preferably used are selected from the group consisting of one, two, three, four, five or more of the following species: [0074] Particularly preferred UV filters encompass:
  • the sun protection filter forming component (ii) represents a blend of UV-A- and UV-B-filters selected from the group consisting of homosalate, octocrylene, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate and mixtures thereof.
  • Particular preferred is a blend of all these filters which is commercially available in the market under the trademark NeoHeliopan® Flat (SYMRISE), which also subject to WO 2020 088778 A1.
  • Suitable pigments encompass oxides of titanium (TiOz), zinc (ZnO), iron (FezOs), zirco- nium (ZrOz), silicon (SiOz), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminium (AI2O3), cerium (e.g. CezOs) and/or mixtures thereof.
  • a formulation according to the invention contains a total amount of sunscreen agents, i.e. in particular UV filters and/or inorganic pigments (UV filtering pigments) so that the formulation according to the invention has a light protection factor of greater than or equal to 5 and up to 50.
  • sunscreen agents i.e. in particular UV filters and/or inorganic pigments (UV filtering pigments) so that the formulation according to the invention has a light protection factor of greater than or equal to 5 and up to 50.
  • UV filters and/or inorganic pigments UV filtering pigments
  • Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rays penetrate into the skin.
  • Typical examples are amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (for example alphacarotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivatives thereof (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxine, glutathione, cysteine, cystine,
  • Advantageous inorganic secondary light protection pigments are finely dispersed metal oxides and metal salts which are also mentioned in WO 2005 123101 A1.
  • the total quantity of inorganic pigments, in particular hydrophobic inorganic micro-pigments in the finished cosmetic preparation according to the present invention is advantageously from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • particulate UV filters or inorganic pigments which can optionally be hydrophobed, can be used, such as the oxides of titanium (TiC ), zinc (ZnO), iron (FezCb), zirconium (ZrC ), silicon (SiOz), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminium (AI2O3), cerium (e.g. CezCb) and/or mixtures thereof.
  • Biogenic active substances include, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, p- glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as such as prunus extract, bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes.
  • Antioxidants interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
  • Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides like D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. -carotene, lycopene) and their derivates, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g.
  • thiols e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamin and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • Dilaurylthiodipropionate, ditearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds e.g.
  • citric acid citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid gallic acid
  • bile extracts bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and its derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and its derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylacetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivates vitamin A palmitate
  • conifer aryl benzoate of benzoic resin rutinic acid and its derivatives, glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butyl hydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. e.g. ZnO, ZnSO4) selenium and its derivatives (e.g.
  • Preferred active ingredients for hair lightening are selected from the group consisting of: kojic acid (5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4-pyranone), kojic acid derivatives, preferably kojic acid dipalmitate, arbutin, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, preferably magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, hydroquinone, hydroquinone derivatives, resorcinol, resorcinol derivatives, preferably 4-alkylresorcinols and 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-dihydroxybenzene (phenylethyl resorcinol), cyclohexylcarbamates (preferably one or more cyclohexyl carbamates disclosed in WO 2010/122178 and WO 2010/097480), sulfur-containing molecules, preferably glutathione or cysteine, alpha-hydroxy acids (preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), salts and esters thereof, N-acetyl ty
  • Advantageous skin and hair tanning active ingredients in this respect are substrates or substrate analogues of tyrosinase such as L-tyrosine, N-acetyl tyrosine, L-DOPA or L- dihydroxyphenylalanine, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theophyl-line and derivatives thereof, proopiomelanocortin peptides such as ACTH, alpha-MSH, peptide analogues thereof and other substances which bind to the melanocortin receptor, peptides, pyrimidines, folic acid, copper salts such as copper gluconate, chloride or pyrrolidonate, 1,3,4-oxadiazole-2-thiols such as 5-pyrazin-2-yl-1,3,4-oxadiazole-2-thiol, curcumin, zinc diglycinate (Zn(Gly)2), manganese(ll) bicarbonate complexes ("p
  • Flavonoids which bring about skin and hair tinting or brown-ing (e.g. quercetin, rhamnetin, kaempferol, fisetin, genistein, daidzein, chrysin and api-genin, epicatechin, diosmin and diosmetin, morin, quercitrin, naringenin, hesperidin, phloridzin and phloretin) can also be used.
  • brown-ing e.g. quercetin, rhamnetin, kaempferol, fisetin, genistein, daidzein, chrysin and api-genin, epicatechin, diosmin and diosmetin, morin, quercitrin, naringenin, hesperidin, phloridzin and phloretin
  • the amount of the aforementioned examples of additional active ingredients for the modulation of skin and hair pigmentation (one or more compounds) in the products according to the invention is then preferably 0.00001 to 30 wt.%, preferably 0.0001 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Formulations and products according to the present invention may also comprise one or more hair growth activators, i.e. agents to stimulate hair growth.
  • Hair growth activators are preferably selected from the group consisting of pyrimidine derivatives such as 2,4- diaminopyrimidine-3-oxide (Aminexil), 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine-3-oxide (Minoxidil) and derivatives thereof, 6-amino-1,2-dihydro-1 -hydroxy-2-imino-4-piperidinopyrimidine and its derivatives, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theophylline and derivatives thereof, quercetin and derivatives, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) and derivatives, potassium channel openers, antiandrogenic agents, synthetic or natural 5-reductase inhibitors, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopheryl nicotinate, benzyl nicotinate and C1 -C6 alky
  • formulations and products according to the present invention may comprise one or more hair growth inhibitors (as described above), i.e. agents to reduce or prevent hair growth.
  • Hair growth inhibitors are preferably selected from the group consisting of activin, activin derivatives or activin agonists, ornithine decarboxylase inhibitors such as alpha-difluoromethylornithine or pentacyclic triterpenes like for example ursolic acid, betulin, betulinic acid, oleanolic acid and derivatives thereof, 5alpha-reductase inhibitors, androgen receptor antagonists, S-adenosylmethionine decarboxylase inhibitors, gamma-glutamyl transpeptidase inhibitors, transglutaminase inhibitors, soybean-derived serine protease inhibitors, extracts from microorganisms, algae, different microalgae or plants and plant parts of for example the families Leguminosae, So
  • Typical examples for skin moisture retention regulators an skin repair agents encompass sodium lactate, urea and derivatives, glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2- hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol, collagen, elastin or hyaluronic acid, diacyl adipates, petrolatum, urocanic acid, lecithin, allantoin, panthenol, phytantriol, lycopene, (pseudo-)ceramides (preferably Ceramide 2, hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide ME A, cetyloxypropyl glyceryl methoxypropyl myristamide, N- (1 -hexadecanoyl)-4-hydroxy-L-proline (1 -hexadecyl) ester, hydroxyethyl palmityl oxyhydroxy propyl palmitamide), glycosphingolipids, cholesterol, phytostea,
  • menthyl 3- hydroxy butyrate monomenthyl succinate, monomenthyl glutarate, 2- mercaptocyclodecanone, menthyl 2-pyrrolidin-5-onecarboxylate, 2,3-dihydroxy-p-menthane, 3,3,5- trimethylcyclohexanone glycerol ketal, 3-menthyl 3,6-di- and -trioxaalkanoates, 3- menthyl methoxyacetate and icilin, and
  • Physiological cooling agents are liquid or solid, particular crystalline substances. The sensation of cold is not triggered physically, but by binding of the cooling agent to a cold receptor that is physiologically activated by cool temperatures. This is the cation channel TRPM8 from the family of TRP channels. TRPM8 is localized at free nerve terminals of afferent A and C fibers and is of central importance for the sensation of cold.
  • Physiological cooling agents such as menthol and menthol compounds are preferably selected from the group formed by the species depicted in the following table (including their optical isomers and racemates):
  • Physiological warming agents can be selected from the group consisting of capsaicin, dihydrocapsaicin, nordihydrocapsaicin, homocapsaicin, homodihydrocapsaicin nonivamid, vannilyl butyl ether, and chili extracts.
  • Suitable anti-inflammatory agents may be selected from the group formed by:
  • steroidal anti-inflammatory substances of the corticosteroid type in particular hydrocortisone, hydrocortisone derivatives such as hydrocortisone 17-butyrate, dexame- thasone, dexamethasone phosphate, methylprednisolone or cortisone,
  • non-steroidal anti-inflammatory substances in particular oxicams such as piroxicam or tenoxicam, salicylates such as aspirin, disalcid, solprin or fendosal, acetic acid derivatives such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin or clindanac, fenamates such as mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic or niflumic, propionic acid derivatives such as ibuprofen, naproxen or benoxaprofen, pyrazoles such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenylbutazone, febrazone or azapropazone,
  • oxicams such as piroxicam or tenoxicam
  • salicylates such as aspirin, disalcid, solprin or fendosal
  • acetic acid derivatives such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indom
  • histamine receptor antagonists include serine protease inhibitors (e.g. of Soy extracts), TRPV1 antagonists (e.g. 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol), NK1 antagonists (e.g. Aprepitant, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid), cannabinoid receptor agonists (e.g. Palmitoyl Ethanolamine) and TRPV3 antagonists.
  • serine protease inhibitors e.g. of Soy extracts
  • TRPV1 antagonists e.g. 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol
  • NK1 antagonists e.g. Aprepitant, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
  • cannabinoid receptor agonists e.g. Palmitoyl Ethanolamine
  • TRPV3 antagonists e.g. Palmitoyl Ethanolamine
  • Suitable anti-microbial agents are, in principle, all substances effective against Grampositive bacteria, such as, for example, 4- hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N-(4- chlorophenyl)-N'-(3,4- dichlorophenyl)urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclo- san), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(6-bromo-4- chlorophenol), 3-methyl- 4-(1 -methylethyl)phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chloro-phenol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-1,2-propanediol, 3- iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, oil of cloves,
  • TTC
  • Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity, thereby reducing the formation of odour.
  • esterase inhibitors such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT).
  • esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campes- terol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and esters thereof, such as, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate, and zinc glycinate.
  • dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethy
  • Suitable odour absorbers are substances which are able to absorb and largely retain odour-forming compounds. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components, thus also reducing their rate of diffusion. It is important that perfumes must remain unimpaired in this process. Odour absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They comprise, for example, as main constituent, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or specific, largely odour- neutral fragrances which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixatives", such as, for example, extracts of labdanum or styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives.
  • the odour masking agents are fragrances or perfume oils, which, in addition to their function as odour masking agents, give the deodorants their respective fragrance note.
  • Perfume oils which may be mentioned are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches, and resins and balsams. Also suitable are animal products, such as, for example, civet and castoreum.
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol, and hydrocarbon type.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexylpropionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether
  • the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citron- ellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
  • the ketones include, for example, the ionones and methyl cedryl ketone
  • the alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linaool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
  • the hydrocarbons include mainly the terpenes and balsams.
  • fragrance oils which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, camomile oil, oil of cloves, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden flower oil, juniperberry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • Suitable astringent antiperspirant active ingredients are primarily salts of aluminium, zirconium or of zinc.
  • suitable antihydrotic active ingredients are, for example, aluminium chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlorohy- drate and complex compounds thereof, e.g. with 1,2- propylene glycol, aluminium hydroxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, e.g. with amino acids, such as glycine.
  • Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quater- nized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar compounds.
  • Suitable antidandruff agents are Pirocton Olamin (1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4- trimethylpentyl)-2-(1 H)-pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Keto- conazol® (4-acetyl-1 - ⁇ 4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl) r-2-(1 H-imidazol-1 -ylmethyl)-1,3-dioxylan-c- 4-ylmethoxyphenyl ⁇ -piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate, sulfur tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid, monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon® UD (protein/undecyle
  • Preferred cosmetics carrier materials are solid or liquid at 25°C and 1013 mbar (including highly viscous substances) as for example glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, ethanol, water and mixtures of two or more of said liquid carrier materials with water.
  • these preparations according to the invention may be produced using preservatives or solubilizers.
  • Other preferred liquid carrier substances which may be a component of a preparation according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of oils such as vegetable oil, neutral oil and mineral oil.
  • Preferred solid carrier materials which may be a component of a preparation according to the invention are hydrocolloids, such as starches, degraded starches, chemically or physically modified starches, dextrins, (powdery) maltodextrins (preferably with a dextrose equivalent value of 5 to 25, preferably of 10 - 20), lactose, silicon dioxide, glucose, modified celluloses, gum arabic, ghatti gum, traganth, karaya, carrageenan, pullulan, curdlan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar flour, carob bean flour, alginates, agar, pectin and inulin and mixtures of two or more of these solids, in particular maltodextrins (preferably with a dextrose equivalent value of 15 - 20), lactose, silicon dioxide and/or glucose.
  • hydrocolloids such as starches, degraded starches, chemically or physically modified starches, dextrins, (p
  • hydrotropes for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols
  • Suitable polyols preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols may contain other functional groups, more especially amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 Dalton;
  • lower alkyl glucosides particularly those containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl glucoside;
  • sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms for example sorbitol or mannitol
  • dialcoholamines such as diethanolamine or 2-aminopropane-1,3-diol.
  • Suitable preservatives are listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikver- owski ("Cosmetics Directive") and chosen from the group consisting of benzoic acid and para-hydroxybenzoic acid, their esters and salts, benzyl benzoate, propionic acid and its salts, salicylic acid and its salts, 2,4-hexadienoic acid (sorbic acid) and its salts, levulinic acid and its salts, anisic acid and its salts, perillic acid and its salts, cinnamic acid and its salts, formaldehyde and paraformaldehyde, 4-hydroxy benzaldehyde, ortho-, meta-, and para-anisic aldehyde, cinnamic aldehyde, cinnamic alcohol, 2-hydroxybiphenyl ether and its salts, 2-zinc- sulfidopyridine N-oxide, inorganic sulfites
  • Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes.
  • Natural perfumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, for example civet and beaver, may also be used.
  • Suitable fragrances encompass:
  • Aliphatic esters such as 1-phenyl-2-methyl-2-propyl acetate, 2-methylbutyl butyrate, aldron (4-[(3,3-dimethylbicyclo[2.2. 1]hept-2-yl)methyl]-2-methylcyclohexanone), allyl 2- cyclohexyloxyglycolate, allyl 2-pentyloxyglycolate, allyl 3-cyclohexylpropionate, allyl capronate, amarocite (1,1 -dimethoxy-2,2,5-trimethyl-4-hexene), ambral (dodecahydro- 3,8,8, 11a-tetramethyl-5H-3.
  • ambretolide (9-hexadecene-16- olide), ambrinol S (1,2,3,4,4a,5,6,7-octahydro-2,6,6-trimethyl-2-napthalinol), ambrinolepoxide, Ambrocenides (4aR,5R,7aS,9R)-octahydro-2,2,5,8,8,9a-hexamethyl-4H-4a,9-methanoazuleno- (5,6-d)-1,3-dioxole), Ambroxide (3a, 6, 6, 9a-tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1 -b]-furan), amyl formate, aureliones (7-cyclohexadecen-1 -one and 8-cyclohexadecen-1 -one), boronal [2- methyl-4-(2, 6,6-
  • Aliphatic aldehydes and their acetals such as B. Hexanal; heptanal; octanal; nonanal; decanal; undecanal; dodecanal; tridecanal; 2-methyloctanal; 2-methylnonanal; (E)-2- hexenal; (Z)-4-heptenal; 2;6-dimethyl-5-heptenal; 10-undecenal; (E)-4-decenal; 2-dodecenal; 2,6,10-trimethyl-9-undecenal; 2,6,10-trimethyl-5,9-undecadienal; heptanaldiethyl acetal; 1,1- dimethoxy-2,2,5-trimethyl-4-hexene; citronellyloxyacetaldehyde; 1 -(1 -methoxy-propoxy)- (E/Z)-3-hexene;
  • Aliphatic ketones and their oximes such as B. 2-heptanone; 2-octanone; 3- octanone; 2-nonanone; 5-methyl-3-heptanone; 5-methyl-3-heptanone oxime; 2, 4,4,7- tetramethyl-6-octen-3-one; 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one;
  • Aliphatic sulfur-containing compounds such as 3-methylthiohexanol; 3- methylthiohexyl acetate; 3-mercaptohexanol; 3-mercaptohexyl acetate; 3-mercaptohexyl butyrate; 3-acetylthiohexyl acetate; 1-menthen-8-thiol;
  • Aliphatic nitriles such as e.g., 2-nonenoic acid nitrile; 2-undecenoic acid nitrile; 2- tridecenoic acid nitrile; 3,12-tridecadienoic acid nitrile; 3,7-dimethyl-2,6-octadienoic acid nitrile; 3,7- Dimethyl-6-octenoic acid nitrile;
  • Araliphatic alcohols such as B. Benzyl alcohol; 1 -phenylethyl alcohol; 2-phenylethyl alcohol; 3-phenylpropanol; 2-phenylpropanol; 2-phenoxyethanol; 2,2-dimethyl-3- phenylpropanol; 2,2-dimethyl-3-(3-methylphenyl)propanol; 1,1-dimethyl-2-phenylethyl alcohol; 1,1-dimethyl-3-phenylpropanol; 1-ethyl-1-methyl-3-phenylpropanol; 2-methyl-5- phenylpentanol; 3-methyl-5-phenylpentanol; 3-phenyl-2-propen-1-ol; 4-methoxybenzyl alcohol; 1 -(4-isopropylphenyl)ethanol
  • Araliphatic ethers such as for example, 2-phenylethyl methyl ether; 2-phenylethyl isoamyl ether; 2-phenylethyl 1 -ethoxyethyl ether; Phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal; phenylacetaldehyde diethyl acetal; hydratropaaldehyde dimethyl acetal; phenylacetaldehyde glycerol acetal; 2,4,6-trimethyl-4-phenyl-1,3-dioxane; 4,4a,5,9b-tetrahydroindeno[1,2-d]-m- dioxin; 4,4a,5,9b-tetrahydro-2,4-dimethylindeno[1,2-d]-m-dioxin; [00110] Aromatic and araliphatic aldehydes, such as e.g., benzaldehyde; phenylacetalde
  • Aromatic and araliphatic ketones such as e.g. acetophenone; 4-methylaceto- phenone; 4-methoxyacetophenone; 4-tert.- butyl-2,6-dimethylacetophenone; 4-phenyl-2- butanone; 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone; 1 -(2-naphthalenyl)ethanone; 2-benzo- furanylethanone; (3-methyl-2-benzofuranyl)ethanone; benzophenone; 1,1,2,3,6-hexamethyl- 5-indanyl methyl ketone; 6-tert. butyl-1,1 -dimethyl-4-indanyl methyl ketone; 1 -[2,3-dihydro-
  • Aromatic and araliphatic carboxylic acids and their esters such as Benzoic acid; phenylacetic acid; methyl benzoate; ethyl benzoate; hexyl benzoate; benzyl benzoate; methyl phenyl acetate; ethyl phenyl acetate; geranyl phenyl acetate; phenyl ethyl phenyl acetate; methyl cinnamate; ethyl cinnamate; benzyl cinnamate; phenyl ethyl cinnamate; cinnamyl cinnamate; allyl phenoxy acetate; methyl salicylate; isoamyl salicylate; hexyl salicylate; cyclohexyl salicylate; cis-3-hexenyl salicylate; benzyl salicylate; phenyl ethyl salicylate;
  • Acyclic terpene alcohols such as B. Citronellol; geraniol; nerol; linalool; lavadulol; nerolidol; farnesol; tetrahydrolinalool; tetrahydrogeraniol; 2,6-dimethyl-7-octen-2-ol; 2,6- Dimethyloctan-2-ol; 2-Methyl-6-methylen-7-octen-2-ol; 2,6-Dimethyl-5,7-octadien-2-ol; 2,6- Dimethyl-3,5-octadien-2-ol; 3,7-Dimethyl-4,6-octadien-3-ol; 3,7-dimethyl-1,5,7-octatrien-3-ol
  • Acyclic terpene aldehydes and ketones such as B. Geranial; Neral; Citronellal; 7- hydroxy-3,7-dimethyloctanal; 7-methoxy-3,7-dimethyloctanal; 2,6,10-trimethyl-9-undecenal; Geranylacetone; and the dimethyl and diethylacetals of Geranial, Neral, 7- hydroxy- 3,7- dimethyloctanal; the cyclic terpene alcohols such as Menthol; isopulegol; alpha-terpineol; terpinenol-4; menthan-8-ol; menthan-1 -ol; menthan-7-ol; borneol; isoborneol; linalool oxide; nopol; cedrol; ambrinol; vetiverol; guaiacol; and their formates, acetates, propionates, isobutyrates, but
  • Cyclic alcohols such as e.g., 4-tert. butylcyclohexanol; 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexanol;
  • Cycloaliphatic alcohols such as alpha,3,3-trimethylcyclohexylmethanol; 1-(4- isopropylcyclohexyl)ethanol; 2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopent-1 -yl)butanol; 2-Methyl-
  • Cyclic and cycloaliphatic ethers such as cineol; cedryl methyl ether; cyclododecyl methyl ether; 1,1 -dimethoxycyclododecane; (ethoxymethoxy)cyclododecane; alpha-cedrene epoxide; 3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1 -b]furan; 3a-ethyl-6,6,9a-trimethyldo- decahydronaphtho[2,1-b]furan; 1,5,9-trimethyl-13-oxabicyclo[10. 1.0]trideca-4,8-diene; rose oxide; 2-(2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1-yl)-5-methyl-5-(1-methylpropyl)-1,3-dioxane;
  • Cyclic and macrocyclic ketones such as 4-tert-butylcyclohexanone; 4-tert - butylcyclohexanone. butylcyclohexanone; 2,2,5-trimethyl-5-pentylcyclopentanone; 2-heptyl- cyclopentanone; 2-pentylcyclopentanone; 2-hydroxy-3-methyl-2-cyclopenten-1-one; 3- methyl-cis-2-penten-1 -yl-2-cyclopenten-1 -one; 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopenten-1 -one; 3- methyl-4-cyclopentadecenone; 3-methyl-5-cyclopentadecenone; 3-methylcyclopenta- decanone; 4-(1-ethoxyvinyl)-3,3,5,5-tetramethylcyclohexanone; 4-tert. - pentylcyclohexanone;
  • Cycloaliphatic aldehydes such as 2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde; 2- methyl-4-(2,2,6-trimethyl-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-butenal; 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclo- hexenecarbaldehyde; 4-(4-methyl-3-penten-1-yl)-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde;
  • Cycloaliphatic ketones such as B. 1-(3,3-Dimethylcyclohexyl)-4-penten-1-on; 2,2- Dimethyl-1 -(2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1 -yl)-1 -propanon; 1 -(5,5-Dimethyl-1 -cyclohexen-1 - yl)-4-penten-1-on; 2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-2-naphthalenyl methyl ketone; methyl 2,6,10-trimethyl 2,5,9-cyclododecatrienyl ketone; tert.
  • Esters of aliphatic carboxylic acids such as (E)- and (Z)-3-hexenyl formate; ethyl acetoacetate; isoamyl acetate; hexyl acetate; 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl acetate; 3-methyl-2-butenyl acetate; (E)-2-hexenyl acetate; (E)- and (Z)-3-hexenyl acetate; octyl acetate; 3-octyl acetate; 1 - octen-3-yl acetate; ethyl butyrate; butyl butyrate; isoamyl butyrate; hexyl butyrate; (E)- and (Z)-3-hexenyl isobutyrate; Hexyl crotonate;
  • Esters of cyclic alcohols such as 2-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate; 4-tert-butylcyclo- hexyl acetate; 2-tert-pentylcyclohexyl acetate; 4-tert-pentylcyclohexyl acetate; 3,3,5- trimethylcyclohexyl acetate; decahydro-2-naphthyl acetate; 2-cyclopentyl cyclopentyl crotonate; 3-pentyl tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-yl acetate; decahydro-2, 5, 5, 8a-tetramethyl-2-naphthyl acetate; 4,7-methano-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro-5, resp.
  • 6-indenyl acetate 4,7-methano- 3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro-5, resp. 6-indenyl propionate; 4,7-methano-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro- 5, resp. 6-indenyl isobutyrate; 4,7-methanooctahydro-5, or 6-indenyl acetate;
  • esters of cycloaliphatic alcohols such as 1 -cyclohexylethyl crotonate
  • Esters of cycloaliphatic carboxylic acids such as Allyl 3-cyclohexyl propionate; allyl cyclohexyloxy acetate; cis- and trans-methyl dihydrojasmonate; cis- and trans-methyl jasmonate; methyl 2-hexyl-3-oxocyclopentane carboxylate; ethyl 2-ethyl-6,6-dimethyl-2- cyclohexenecarboxylate; ethyl 2,3,6,6-tetramethyl-2-cyclohexenecarboxylate; ethyl 2-methyl- 1,3-dioxolane-2-acetate;
  • Ester of araliphatic alcohols and aliphatic carboxylic acids such as benzyl acetate; benzyl propionate; benzyl isobutyrate; benzyl isovalerate; 2-phenylethyl acetate; 2- phenylethyl propionate; 2-phenylethyl isobutyrate; 2-phenylethyl isovalerate; 1 -phenylethyl acetate; alpha-trichloromethyl benzyl acetate; alpha, alpha-dimethylphenyl ethyl acetate; alpha, alpha-dimethylphenyl ethyl butyrate; cinnamyl acetate; 2-phenoxyethyl isobutyrate; 4- methoxybenzyl acetate;
  • Heterocyclic compounds such as B. 2,5-dimethyl-4-hydroxy-2H-furan-3-one; 2- ethyl-4-hydroxy-5-methyl-2H-furan-3-one; 3-hydroxy-2-methyl-4H-pyran-4-one; 2-ethyl-3- hydroxy-4H-pyran-4-one;
  • Hydrocarbons such as 3-carene; alpha-pinene; beta-pinene; alpha-terpinene; gamma-terpinene; p-cymene; bisabolene; camphene; caryophyllene; cedrene; farnesene; limonene; longifolene; myrcene; ocimene; valencene; (E,Z)-1,3,5-undecatriene; styrene; diphenylmethane; the aliphatic alcohols such as Hexanol; Octanol; 3-octanol; 2,6-dimethylheptanol; 2-methyl-2-heptanol; 2-methyl-2-octanol; (E)-2-hexenol; (E)- and (Z)-3-hexenol; 1 -octen-3-ol; mixture of 3,4,5,6,6-pentamethyl-3/4-he
  • Phenols, phenyl ethers and phenyl esters such as Tarragol; anethole; eugenol; eugenyl methyl ether; isoeugenol; isoeugenyl methyl ether; thymol; carvacrol; diphenyl ether; beta-naphthyl methyl ether; beta-naphthyl ethyl ether; beta-naphthyl isobutyl ether; 1,4- dimethoxybenzene; eugenyl acetate; 2-methoxy-4-methylphenol; 2-ethoxy-5-(1- propenyl)phenol; p-cresylphenyl acetate;
  • Nitrogen-containing aromatic compounds such as B. 2,4,6-Trinitro-1,3-dimethyl- 5-tert.- butylbenzene; 3,5-dinitro-2,6-dimethyl-4-tert-butyl acetophenone; cinnamic acid nitrile; 3-methyl-5-phenyl-2-pentenoic acid nitrile; 3-methyl-5-phenylpentanoic acid nitrile; I; methyl anthranilate; methyl N-methyl anthranilate; Schiff bases of methyl anthranilate with 7- hydroxy-3,7-dimethyloctanal, 2-methyl-3-(4-tert.- butylphenyl)propanal or 2,4-dimethyl-3- cyclohexenecarbaldehyde; 6-isopropylquinoline; 6-isobutylquinoline; 6-sec. butylquinoline; 2- (3-phenylpropyl)pyridine; indole;
  • Suitable fragrances with woody odor are selected from the group consisting of:
  • Suitable fragrances with amber odor are selected from the group consisting of:
  • Preferred fragrances with musk odor Preferred fragrances with musk odor
  • Suitable fragrances with musk odor are selected from the group consisting of:
  • Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the publication "Kosmetician mistakestoff" of the Farbstoff- kommission der Deutschen Deutschen Deutschen Anlagenstician, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106. Examples include cochineal red A (C.l. 16255), patent blue V (C.l. 42051), indigotin (C.l. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.l. 75810), quinoline yellow (C.l. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.l. 77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.l. 69800) and madder lake (C.l. 58000).
  • cochineal red A C.l. 16255
  • patent blue V C.l. 42051
  • indigotin C.l. 73015
  • chlorophyllin C.l. 75810
  • quinoline yellow C.l. 47005
  • titanium dioxide C.l. 77891
  • Luminol may also be present as a luminescent dye.
  • Advantageous coloured pigments are for example titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. FezCb FesC , FeO(OH)) and/or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are for example carmine, Berlin blue, chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet.
  • compositions according to the present inventions are selected from the group of products for treatment, protecting, care and cleansing of the skin and/or hair or as a make-up product, preferably as a leave-on product (meaning that the one or more compounds stay on the skin and/or hair for a longer period of time, compared to rinse-off products).
  • the formulations according to the invention are preferably in the form of an emulsion, e.g. W/O (water-in-oil), O/W (oil-in-water), W/O/W (water-in-oil-in-water), O/W/O (oil- in-water-in-oil) emulsion, PIT emulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- or nanoemulsion, a solution, e.g.
  • an emulsion as described above, ointment, paste, gel (as described above), oil, balsam, serum, powder (e.g. face powder, body powder), eau de perfume, eau de toilette, after-shave, a mask, a pencil, stick, roll-on, pump, aerosol (foaming, non-foaming or post-foaming), a deodorant and/or antiperspirant, mouthwash and mouth rinse, a foot care product (including keratolytic, deodorant), an insect repellent, a sunscreen, aftersun preparation, a shaving product, aftershave balm, pre- and aftershave lotion, a depilatory agent, a hair care product such as e.g.
  • shampoo including 2-in- 1 shampoo, anti-dandruff shampoo, baby shampoo, shampoo for dry scalps, concentrated shampoo
  • conditioner hair tonic, hair water, hair rinse, styling creme, pomade, perm and setting lotion
  • hair spray e.g. gel or wax
  • hair smoothing agent detangling agent, relaxer
  • hair dye such as e.g. temporary direct-dyeing hair dye, semi-permanent hair dye, permanent hair dye, hair conditioner, hair mousse, eye care product, make-up, make-up remover or baby product.
  • Auxiliary substances and additives can be included in quantities of 5 to 99 % b.w., preferably 10 to 80 % b.w., based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the amounts of cosmetic or dermatological auxiliary agents and additives and perfume to be used in each case can easily be determined by the person skilled in the art by simple trial and error, depending on the nature of the particular product.
  • the preparations can also contain water in a quantity of up to 99 wt. -percent., preferably from about 5 to about 80 wt.-percent and more preferably either from about 10 to about 50 or from about 60 to about 80 wt.-percent based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • EpiDerm reconstituted 3D models (MatTek, Bratislava, Slovakia) were cultivated for 72h. Then the SymRenewTM HPR (INCI: Diisopropyl Adipate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Tocopherol) and the benchmark all-trans retinol are daily recurring applied for 5 days. This ingredient is a dedicated blend of Hydroxypinacolone retinoate facilitating a good stability. For each experimental condition, three biological replicates were analyzed. EpiDerm models are harvested in RNA lysis buffer. RNA was isolated using Quiagen RNAeasy Mini kit (Quiagen, Hilden, Germany. Samples were processed for Illumina TruSeq, stranded, poly(A) enriched RNA library preparation. Sequencing was performed on Illumina NextSeq, v2.5 with 75bp and 30 Mio reads per sample.
  • RNA Seq analysis reveals that HPR changes gene expression of 2747 genes compared to the untreated sample. All-trans retinol changes the expression of 3893 genes compared to the untreated control.
  • All-trans retinol changes the expression of 3893 genes compared to the untreated control.
  • Figure 3 we analyzed the 493 genes regulated only by HPR but not by all-trans retinol. Among those, we found genes that are associated to the upregulation of extracellular matrix organization, extracellular matrix and collagen suggesting improved basement membrane formation, and dermal-epidermal anchoring and skin elasticity. Further, protein digestion and absorption were promoted, which is very important to protect skin cells from aging processes and improve stratum corneum formation during differentiation (see Figures 1 and 2).
  • Figure 1 Venn Diagram showing the differentially regulated genes in response to the ingredient compared to all-trans-retinol
  • Figure 2 left: Venn Diagram showing 2254 genes (red border) that are regulated by both the ingredient and all-trans-retinol.
  • Figure 3 left: Venn Diagram with highlighted gene class (red border) showing those 493 genes that are regulated only by the ingredient but not by all-trans-retinol.
  • Right Gene Ontological clustering of the 493 genes regulated only by the ingredient.
  • Figure 4 Gene Ontological clustering of the 843 genes regulated only by the ingredient separated for the upregulated and downregulated genes.
  • Figure 5 Selected genes involved in Keratinocyte differentiation and barrier formation are upregulated compared to all-trans retinol.
  • Figure 6 Left: Pictures of the wrinkle reduction in vivo study Right: Bar chart showing th effect of the ingredient compared to all-trans retinol. * p ⁇ 0.05 vs placebo
  • Body lotion (Amounts in % b.w.)
  • Cream (Amounts in % b.w.)
  • Moisturizing body care cream (Amounts in % b.w.)
  • Anti-wrinkle cream (Amounts in % b.w.)
  • Moisturizing and disinfecting face mask (Amounts in % b.w.)
  • Sprayable disinfecting gel (Amounts in % b.w.)
  • Cosmetic sun protection composition (Amounts in % b.w.)
  • Sun protection milk (W/0) (Amounts in % b.w.)

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Abstract

Suggested is preparation for use as a medicament in the protection and/or treatment of dysfunctions of human skin, comprising or consisting of (a) hydroxy pinacolone retinoate, and optionally, (b) at least one C1-C6 alkyl mono- and/or diester ester of a dicarboxylic acid, and/or (c) at least one antioxidant.

Description

Preparations comprising hydroxy pinacolone retinoate
AREA OF INVENTION
[0001] The present invention refers to the area of cosmetics and concerns new anti-ageing preparations and their cosmetic use for fighting dysfunction of human skin, particular those caused by insufficient organization of the extracellular matrix and the regulation of the respective genes.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Retinoids are defined as Vitamin A derivatives based on beta-ionone. They are incorporated via nutrition and occur as Retinol and Retinyl esters of animal origin or as plantbased carotenoids. Retinoids have a plethora of functions depending on tissue and active form. Specifically, their function in distinct tissues depends on the respective retinoid derivative and retinoic acid stereoisomers, e.g., vision functionality is facilitated by retinal binding rhodopsin in the retina cells, whereas tissue differentiation e.g. skin epidermis differentiation is regulated by retinoic acid (RA) stereoisomers binding to their nuclear receptors in the respective tissue and activating gene expression. Here, 9-cis RA acts mainly as ligand of the retinoid-X receptors RXRs, whereas Retinoic acid receptors RAR bind 9-cis RA and all-trans RA (ATRA) [1,2],
[0003] As retinoids are hydrophobic, they need to be transported in the aqueous tissue environment by retinoid binding proteins which divide according to their appearance in plasma retinol-binding protein (RBP 4), the interstitial retinol-binding protein (RBP 3) and the cellular retinol-binding proteins (CRBPs or RBP 1, RBP2, RBP 5 and RBP 7). These transport proteins not only facilitate the solubilization of retinoids, but also protect them from oxidation. Further, the cellular retinoic acid binding proteins (CRABP) mediate the interaction between RA and its receptors RXR and RAR attributing CRABP co-activator properties. When RAR receptors bind to RA this results in a conformational change allowing heterodimerization with other receptors such as RXRs, LXRs and PPARg among others. This promiscuity of the RAR receptors mediate the pleiotropic effects of RAs in the various tissues. For example, the heterodimer complex subunits are altered with the differentiation status of keratinocytes with RA- Ra/RXRa dominating in the basal layer and RARg/RXRa in the suprabasal layer. Beside its gene expression regulating function, RA exhibits non-transcriptional pathway activity via RAR and RXR activation distinct from there activity as transcription factors. For instance, RARa forms a complex with G protein alpha Q (Gocq) coupled receptor in lipid rafts in response to RA and activate p38 MAPK signaling [3] and it binds PI3K subunits RA dependently in order to activate AKT and subsequently ERK1/2 [4], As mentioned above retinoids affect differentiation processes, specifically they are essential for keratinocyte differentiation, where Keratin and heparin-binding epidermal growth factor gene expression thereby orchestrating skin differentiation and barrier function. Explicitly KRT4 and KRT13 in the suprabasal layer is upregulated and KRT2 which occurs in the stratum spinosum is downregulated. Further, cell division of basal keratinocytes is increased resulting in cell proliferation and subsequently epidermal thickening [5], By means of this, Vitamin A deficiency could result in skin problems and retinoids are used in the treatment of keratiniza- tion disorders, e.g. epidermolysis bullosa simplex and epidermolytic ichthyosis, but also in the treatment of psoriasis and acne vulgaris [6], During aging processes, keratinization and epidermal thickness is impaired. Here, retinoids are widely used in topical formulations to decelerate skin phenotypes including wrinkles, roughness, laxity, sallowness, scaling and dryness. Especially, UV-induced photoaging was reported to be improved by the use of retinoids [7], Mechanistically, wrinkles and roughness are mitigated via upregulation of Collagen I, III and IV [8,9], Summarizing, retinoids have been proven to exhibit advantageous effects in the topical treatment of aging phenotypes but also of psoriasis and acne vulgaris. Even though, recent reports focus attention on their limitations and side effects. One limitation of retinoids is their decreasing bioavailability in prolonged uses due to their increasing inactivation by CYP26 family enzymes and other cytochrome P450 members which are induced by retinoids and their RAR/RXR signaling therewith forming a negative feedback-loop [10], By this effect, a vitamin A deficiency can occur resulting in unfortunate skin conditions. Further detrimental retinoid side effects are characterized as 'retinoid reaction' with burning sensation, pruritus and erythema occurring at the beginning of retinoid use. This may be attributed to the activation of the irritation receptor TRPV1 by retinoids and declines after adaptation to their use [11], But also, customers and patients observed inflammation, peeling, erythema, and dried skin after long-term use of retinoids. Concluding, all these observed adverse effects are manifold and their molecular cause is not clarified in detail. Thus, dermatologists and cosmetic industries perceived the necessity to develop retinoid alternatives with good efficacy but reduced adverse effects. Here, Varani and colleagues developed pinacolonic ester-substituted retinoids with less irritant and adverse effects [12], In this study, we performed a whole tran- scriptomic sequencing (RNA-Seq) approach to elucidate and compare the molecular effects of a stabilized blend of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) vs. the benchmark ATRA in an in vitro 3D model.
RELEVANT PRIOR ART
[0004] WO 2019 185923 A1 (SYMRISE) suggests blends of retinol and diisopropyl adipate for the improvement of healthy conditions of human skin.
[0005] WO 2023 025313 A1 (DERMAHEALTH SHANGHAI BIOTECHNOLOGY CO LTD) discloses a composition comprising hydroxy pinacolone retinoate and retinol propionate. [0006] DK 202000134 U3 (BEAUTE PACIFIQUE APS) discloses a skin cream comprising hydroxy pinacolone retinoate.
[0007] CN 111388348 A (CHANGSHA DAISY BIO TECH CO LTD) concerns a composition comprising a hydroxy pinacolone retinoate and retinyl retinoate.
[0008] CN 111714400 A (GUANGDONG ZHENLIS COSMETICS CO LTD) provides makeup with anti-ageing and repairing effects and a production method of the makeup with the antiageing and repairing effects. The makeup comprises anti-ageing and repairing substances and basic makeup substances, wherein the anti-ageing and repairing substances are composed of the following components in percentage by weight: 16-20 percent of hydroxy pinacolone retinoate, 13-18 percent of ectoine, 15-18 percent of a honeysuckle polyphenol extract, 10-13 percent of salidroside, 7-10 percent of ellagic acid and the balance polypeptides.
[0009] CN 114588061 A (GUANGDONG CRATAEHNCHENG ZHENGCHENG) discloses an anti-aging and wrinkle-removing composition, a preparation method thereof and a skin care product. The anti-aging and wrinkle-removing composition comprises 1-15 percent of an anti-aging component, 1-15 percent of a wrinkle-removing component, 3-30 percent of an auxiliary agent and the balance of water, the anti-aging component comprises an apple seed fermentation extract, a pumpkin seed fermentation extract and a fig fermentation extract; the wrinkle-removing components comprise shea butter, hydroxy pinacolone retinoate and small molecule peptide.
[0010] CN 115154338 A (HANGZHOU SHUCAI NETWORK TECH CO LTD) discloses efficient anti-aging essence and a preparation method thereof. The efficient anti-aging essence comprises grease, a surfactant, an additive, a beneficial agent and water. According to the invention, three-dimensional directional anti-aging is carried out by adopting anti-aging compositions of acetyl hexapeptide-8, hydroxy pinacolone retinoate, spilanthes (spilanthes flow- er/leaf/stem extract, astragalus membranacus root extract ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), VE and safflower seed oil).
[0011] CN 115569086 A relates to a hydroxy pinacolone retinoate composition comprising hydroxy pinacolone retinoate and a grease which is a low-polar or non-polar grease.
[0012] CN 115177566 A (HANGZHOU SHUCAI NETWORK TECH CO LTD) discloses a synergistic hydroxyl pinacolone retinoate anti-aging essence and a preparation method thereof, the synergistic hydroxyl pinacolone retinoate anti-aging essence comprises lipid, a surfactant, an additive, a beneficial agent and water.
[0013] KR 20190132197 A (GIGI COSMETIC LABORATORIES LTD) provides a balancing concentrated composition for use in the prevention and treatment of acne, containing an Epilobium angustifolium extract, hydroxy pinacolone retinoate, dextran, and tripeptide-1 as active components. OBJECT OF THE INVENTION
[0014] Therefore, it has been the object of the present invention providing new preparations useful for fighting dysfunctions of human skin, in particular associated with loss of skin firmness and elasticity, caused by extracellular matrix catabolism and other degrading processes, especially through the upregulation of MMPs.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0015] A first object of the present invention refers to a preparation for use as a medicament in the prevention and/or treatment of dysfunctions of human skin, comprising or consisting of
(a) hydroxy pinacolone retinoate (I) and optionally
(b) at least one Ci-Ce alkyl mono- and/or diester ester of a dicarboxylic acid, and/or
(c) at least one antioxidant.
[0016] According to whole gene expressional analysis by next generation sequencing it was surprisingly found that compared to retinol as the benchmark hydroxy pinacolone retinoate (HPR), particular in combination with dicarboxylic acid esters, activates a similar subset of genes, but also improves gene expressional efficacy on gene sets that are involved in extracellular matrix regulation, cornified envelop, keratinization and protein digestion and absorption
[0017] In particular, the preparation shows advantages over all-trans retinol, as it more increases extracellular matrix organization and collagen formation to strengthen the basal membrane. It seems to be less irritant, as it suppresses interferon mediated signaling.
[0018] Moreover, the preparations for use according to the present invention are useful in the prevention and/or treatment of dysfunctions of human skin such as for example:
• Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome;
• Cutis Laxa;
• Elastolysis;
• Cellulitis; • Ligament laxity;
• Loss of skin elasticity; and/or
• Loss of skin firmness. for example by means of at least one of the following effects:
• reduction of chemotaxis
• reduction of ECM-receptor interaction
• upregulation of protein digestion and absorption
• upregulation of extracellular matrix and its organization
• upregulation of TIMP1, COL14A1, THBS1, SERPINB5 and CYR61 gene expression
• upregulation of fibrillogenesis
• reduction of collagen catabolic processes and extracellular matrix disassembly;
• reduction of MMP3, MMP10, MMP1, MMP15 gene expression
[0019] Ehlers-Danlos syndromes (EDS) means a group of 13 genetic connective-tissue disorders in the current classification. Symptoms often include loose joints, joint pain, stretchy velvety skin, and abnormal scar formation. These may be noticed at birth or in early childhood. Complications may include aortic dissectionjoint dislocations, scoliosis, chronic pain, or early osteoarthritis. EDS occurs due to variations of more than 19 genes that are present at birth. The specific gene affected determines the type of EDS. Some cases result from a new variation occurring during early development, while others are inherited in an autosomal dominant or recessive manner. Typically, these variations result in defects in the structure or processing of the protein collagen.
[0020] Cutis laxa or pachydermatocele is a group of rare connective tissue disorders in which the skin becomes inelastic and hangs loosely in folds. It is characterized by skin that is loose, hanging, wrinkled, and lacking in elasticity. The loose skin can be either generalized or localized. Biopsies have shown reduction and degeneration of dermal elastic fibers in the affected areas of skin. The loose skin is often most noticeable on the face, resulting in a prematurely aged appearance. The affected areas of skin may be thickened and dark. In addition, the joints may be loose (hypermobile) because of lax ligaments and tendons. When cutis laxa is severe, it can also affect the internal organs. The lungs, heart (supravalvular pulmonary stenosis), intestines, or arteries may be affected with a variety of severe impairments. In some cases, hernias and outpouching of the bladder can be observed. Patients can also present with whites of the eyes that are blue
[0021] Ligamentous laxity, or ligament laxity, is a cause of chronic body pain characterized by loose ligaments. When this condition affects joints in the entire body, it is called generalized joint hypermobility, which occurs in about ten percent of the population, and may be genetic. Loose ligaments can appear in a variety of ways and levels of severity. It also does not always affect the entire body. One could have loose ligaments of the feet, but not of the arms. Someone with ligamentous laxity, by definition, has loose ligaments. Unlike other, more pervasive diseases, the diagnosis does not require the presence of loose tendons, muscles or blood vessels, hyperlax skin or other connective tissue problems. In heritable connective tissue disorders associated with joint hypermobility (such as Marfan syndrome and Ehlers-Danlos syndrome types I— III, VII, and XI), the joint laxity usually is apparent before adulthood. However, age of onset and extent of joint laxity are variable in Marfan syndrome, and joint laxity may be confined to the hands alone, as in Ehlers-Danlos syndrome type I. In addition, ligamentous laxity may appear in conjunction with physical coordination conditions such as dyspraxia.
Hydroxy pinacolonic retinoate
[0022] Hydroxy pinacolonic acid (HPR) (component a) represents a known member of the retinoid family. It is available in the market, typically a 2 wt.-% solution with dimethyl isosorbide. Methods for synthesizing HPR can be found here:
CN112522331 A (SHANGHAI COACH TECH CO LTD)
CN114436924 A (TANGDAO THREE PEDESTRIAN CHEMISTRY LTD CO)
CN115260071 A (HUZHOU SHUOBANG BIOTECHNOLOGY CO LTD)
CN115531266 A (QUANHOU GUANGZHOU BIOTECHNOLOGY RES INST CO LTD)
Dicarboxylic acid esters
[0023] The preparation for use may use as component (b) esters of dicarboxylic acids follows formula (II)
R1COO-(CH2)n(CH = CH)p(CH2)qCOOR2 (II) in which R1 and R2 stand independently from each other for linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, n and q independently from each other for integers from 1 to 6 and p for 0 or 1, on condition that R1 and R2 cannot represent hydrogen at the same time. Useful examples encompass, methyl, ethyl, propyl- and isopropyl mono and diesters of succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic, suberic, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, maleic acid and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment component (b) is diisopropyl adipate.
[0024] The preparation may contain components (a) and (b) in ratios by weight of from about 1:99 to about 25:75, preferably from about 2:98 to 20:80, and more preferably from about 5:95 to about 10:90.
[0025] In a preferred embodiment, the preparations are used in a pharmaceutical composition, in which component (a) is present in an amount ranging from about 0.0001 to about 2 wt.-percent, preferably from about 0.001 to about 0.5 wt.-percent and more preferably from about 0.01 to about 0.2 wt.-percent. Said pharmaceutical composition may represent a lotion, a cream, a spray or an ointment, all for topical application on human skin.
Antioxidants
[0026] The preparation for use may incorporate antioxidants (component c) which can be selected from the group consisting of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, |3-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes. The preferred antioxidants are tocopherols.
[0027] The antioxidants can be present in amounts of from about 0.1 to about 5 wt.-percent, preferably from about 0.5 to about 2 wt.-percent - calculated on the preparation.
COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
[0028] Another object of the present invention refers to the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of a preparation, comprising
(a) hydroxy pinacolone retinoate (I) and optionally
(b) at least one Ci -Cs alkyl mono- and/or diester ester of a dicarboxylic acid, and/or
(c) at least one antioxidant.
[0029] Also claimed is a cosmetic composition, encompassing a preparation, comprising or consisting of
(a) hydroxy pinacolone retinoate (I) and optionally
(b) at least one Ci-Ce alkyl mono- and/or diester ester of a dicarboxylic acid and/or
(c) at least one antioxidant.
[0030] As far as the nature of components (a), (b) and (c) and their weight relations is concerned, reference is made to the disclosure supra. The most preferred preparation comprises or consists of
(a) hydroxy pinacolone retinoate
(b) diisopropyl adipate, and
(c) tocopherol.
[0031] The composition can be obtained by simply incorporating the preparation into the cosmetic base under stirring, optional gentle heating until a homogenous product is obtained.
[0032] The cosmetic composition may be for example a skin care, a personal care, a sun care or a hair care composition (for care of human scalp), comprising the preparations as defined above in a working amount, for example about 0.1 to about 10 % b.w., preferably about 0.5 to about 8 % b.w. and particularly from about 1 to about 5 % b.w. - calculated on the com- position(s). The composition may represent for example a cosmetic cream, lotion, spray, emulsion, ointment, gel or mouse and the like.
[0033] The preparations according to the invention may contain antidandruff agents, irritation-preventing agents, irritation-inhibiting agents, antioxidants, adstringents, perspirationinhibiting agents, antiseptic agents, ant-statics, binders, buffers, carrier materials, chelating agents, cell stimulants, cleansing agents, care agents, deodorizing agents, antiperspirants, softeners, emulsifiers, enzymes, essential oils, fibres, film-forming agents, fixatives, foamforming agents, foam stabilizers, substances for preventing foaming, foam boosters, gelling agents, gel-forming agents, hair care agents, hair-setting agents, hair-straightening agents, moisture-donating agents, moisturizing substances, moisture-retaining substances, bleaching agents, strengthening agents, stain-removing agents, optically brightening agents, impregnating agents, dirt-repellent agents, friction-reducing agents, lubricants, moisturizing creams, ointments, opacifying agents, plasticizing agents, covering agents, polish, gloss agents, polymers, powders, proteins, re-oiling agents, abrading agents, silicones, hair promotion agents, cooling agents, skin-cooling agents, warming agents, skin-warming agents, stabilizers, UV- absorbing agents, UV filters, detergents, thickeners, vitamins, oils, waxes, fats, phospholipids, saturated fatty acids, mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acids, oc-hydroxy acids, poly hydroxyfatty acids, liquefiers, dyestuffs, colour-protecting agents, pigments, odoriferous substances, polyols, surfactants, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives and the like as additional auxiliaries and additives.
[0034] Particular preferred are cosmetic compositions comprising anti-itching agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-acne agents; sebum-reducing agents physiological cooling agents and/or skin care agents, as described in more detail infra.
Surfactants
[0035] Preferred auxiliaries and additives are anionic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Non-ionic and cationic surfactants can be also present in the composition. Suitable examples are mentioned along with the paragraph dealing with emulsifiers.
Anionic and zwitterionic surfactants
[0036] Typical examples for anionic and zwitterionic surfactants encompass: Almondami- dopropylamine Oxide, Almondamidopropyl Betaine, Aminopropyl Laurylglutamine, Ammonium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate, Ammonium C12-16 Alkyl Sulfate, Ammonium Capryleth Sulfate, Ammonium Cocomonoglyceride Sulfate, Ammonium Coco-Sulfate, Ammonium Cocoyl Isethionate, Ammonium Cocoyl Sarcosinate, Ammonium C12-15 Pareth Sulfate, Ammonium C9-10 Perfluoroalkylsulfonate, Ammonium Dinonyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, Ammonium Isostearate, Ammonium Laureth-6 Carboxylate, Ammonium Lau- reth-8 Carboxylate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth-5 Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth-7 Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth-9 Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth-12 Sulfate, Ammonium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Myreth Sulfate, Ammonium Myristyl Sulfate, Ammonium Nonoxynol-4 Sulfate, Ammonium Nonoxynol-30 Sulfate, Ammonium Oleate, Ammonium Palm Kernel Sulfate, Ammonium Stearate, Ammonium Tallate, AMPD-lsostearoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, AMPD-Rosin Hydrolyzed Collagen, AMP-lsostearoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, AMP- Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, AMP-lsostearoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, AMP-lsostearoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Aprico- tamidopropyl Betaine, Arachidic Acid, Arginine Hexyldecyl Phosphate, Avocadamidopropyl Betaine, Avocado Oil Glycereth-8 Esters, Babassu Acid, Babassuamidopropylamine Oxide, Babassuamidopropyl Betaine, Beeswax Acid, Behenamidopropyl Betaine, Behenamine Oxide, Beheneth-25, Beheneth-30, Behenic Acid, Behenyl Betaine, Bis- Butyldimethicone Polyglycer- yl-3, Butoxynol-5 Carboxylic Acid, Butoxynol-19 Carboxylic Acid, Butyldimoniumhydroxypro- pyl Butylglucosides Chloride, Butyldimoniumhydroxypropyl Laurylglucosides Chloride, Butyl Glucoside, Butylglucoside Caprate, Butylglucosides Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Bu- tyloctanoic Acid, C18-36 Acid, C20-40 Acid, C30-50 Acid, C16-22 Acid Amide MEA, Calcium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, Calcium Lauroyl Taurate, C9-16 Alkane/Cycloalkane, C10-14 Alkyl Benzenesulfonic Acid, C12-14 Alkyl Diaminoethylglycine HCL, C9-15 Alkyl Phosphate, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Canolamidopropyl Betaine, Capric Acid, Caproic Acid, Caproyl Ethyl Glucoside, Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine, Capryleth-4 Carboxylic Acid, Capryleth-6 Carboxylic Acid, Capryleth-9 Carboxylic Acid, Caprylic Acid, Capryloyl Collagen Amino Acids, Capryloyl Glycine, Capryloyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Capryloyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Capryloyl Keratin Amino Acids, Capryloyl Silk Amino Acids, Capry- lyl/Capryl Glucoside, Caprylyl/Capryl Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides, Caprylyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether, Caprylyl Pyrrolidone, Carnitine, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-23, Ceteareth-24, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-27, Ceteareth-28, Ceteareth-29, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-33, Ce- teareth-34, Ceteareth-40, Ceteareth-50, Ceteareth-55, Ceteareth-60, Ceteareth-80, Ceteareth- 100, Ceteareth-25 Carboxylic Acid, Ceteareth-2 Phosphate, Ceteareth-4 Phosphate, Ce- teareth-5 Phosphate, Ceteareth-10 Phosphate, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-23, Ceteth-24, Ceteth-25, Ceteth-30, Ceteth-40, Ceteth-45, Ceteth-150, Ceteth-8 Phosphate, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Ce- teth-20 Phosphate, Cetoleth-22, Cetoleth-24, Cetoleth-25, Cetoleth-30, Cetyl Betaine, Chrysanthemum Sinense Flower Extract, C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxyethyl Beta-Alanine, C12-14 Hydroxyalkyl Hydroxyethyl Sarcosine, Cocamidoethyl Betaine, Cocamidopropylamine Oxide, Cocamidopropyl Betainamide MEA Chloride, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamidopropyl Hy- droxysultaine, Cocamine Oxide, Cocaminobutyric Acid, Cocaminopropionic Acid, Coceth-7 Carboxylic Acid, Coceth-4 Glucoside, Cocoamphodipropionic Acid, Cocobetainamido Am- phopropionate, Coco-Betaine, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Coco- dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Coco-Glucoside, Cocoglucosides Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Coco- Hydroxysultaine, Coco-Morpholine Oxide, Coconut Acid, Coconut Oil Glycereth-8 Esters, Co- co/Oleamidopropyl Betaine, Coco-Sultaine, Coco/Sunfloweramidopropyl Betaine, Cocoylcho- line Methosulfate, Cocoyl Glutamic Acid, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocoyl Sarcosine, Corn Acid, Cottonseed Acid, Cottonseed Oil Glycereth-8 Esters, CIO-16 Pareth-1, C10-16 Pa- reth-2, Cl 1-13 Pareth-6, Cl 1-13 Pareth-9, Cl 1-13 Pareth-10, Cl 1-15 Pareth-30, Cl 1-15 Pa- reth-40, C12-13 Pareth-1, C12-13 Pareth- 23, C12-14 Pareth-5, C12-14 Pareth-9, C13-15 Pa- reth-21, C14-15 Pareth-8, C20-22 Pareth-30, C20- 40 Pareth-40, C20-40 Pareth-95, C22-24 Pareth-33, C30-50 Pareth-40, C9-11 Pareth-6 Carboxylic Acid, C9-11 Pareth-8 Carboxylic Acid, Cl 1-15 Pareth-7 Carboxylic Acid, C12-13 Pareth-5 Carboxylic Acid, C12-13 Pareth-7 Carbox- ylic Acid, Cl 2-13 Pareth-8 Carboxylic Acid, C12-13 Pareth-12 Carboxylic Acid, Cl 2-15 Pareth- 7 Carboxylic Acid, C12-15 Pareth-8 Carboxylic Acid, C12-15 Pareth- 12 Carboxylic Acid, C14- 15 Pareth-8 Carboxylic Acid, C6-10 Pareth-4 Phosphate, C12-13 Pareth-2 Phosphate, C12-13 Pareth-10 Phosphate, C12-15 Pareth-6 Phosphate, C12-15 Pareth-8 Phosphate, C12-15 Pa- reth-10 Phosphate, C12-16 Pareth-6 Phosphate, C4-18 Perfluoroalkylethyl Thiohydroxypro- pyltrimonium Chloride, Cupuassuamidopropyl Betaine, DEA-C12-13 Alkyl Sulfate, DEA-C12- 15 Alkyl Sulfate, DEA-Ceteareth-2 Phosphate, DEA-Cetyl Sulfate, DEA- Cocoamphodipropio- nate, DEA-C12-13 Pareth-3 Sulfate, DEA-Cyclocarboxypropyloleate, DEA- Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, DEA-lsostearate, DEA-Laureth Sulfate, DEA-Lauryl Sulfate, DEA- Linoleate, DEA- Methyl Myristate Sulfonate, DEA-Myreth Sulfate, DEA-Myristate, DEA-Myristyl Sulfate, DEA- Oleth-5 Phosphate, DEA-Oleth-20 Phosphate, DEA PG-Oleate, Deceth-7 Carboxylic Acid, De- ceth-7 Glucoside, Deceth-9 Phosphate, Decylamine Oxide, Decyl Betaine, Decyl Glucoside, Decyltetradeceth-30, Decyltetradecylamine Oxide, Diammonium Lauramido-MEA Sulfosuccinate, Diammonium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Diammonium Oleamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Dibutoxymethane, Di-CI 2-15 Pareth-2 Phosphate, Di-CI 2-15 Pareth-4 Phosphate, Di-CI 2-15 Pareth-6 Phosphate, Di- C12-15 Pareth-8 Phosphate, Di-CI 2-15 Pareth-10 Phosphate, Didodecyl Butanetetracarboxylate, Diethylamine Laureth Sulfate, Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dihydroxyethyl C8-10 Alkoxypropylamine Oxide, Di hydroxyethyl C9-11 Alkoxypropylamine Oxide, Dihydroxyethyl C12-15 Alkoxypropylamine Oxide, Dihydroxyethyl Cocamine Oxide, Di hydroxyethyl Lauramine Oxide, Dihydroxyethyl Stearamine Oxide, Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine Oxide, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dime- thicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, Dimethi- cone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Propyl PG- Betaine, Dimyristyl Phosphate, Dioleoylamidoethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, DIPA- Hydrogenated Cocoate, DIPA- Lanolate, DIPA-Myristate, Dipotassium Capryloyl Glutamate, Dipotassium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Dipotassium Undecylenoyl Glutamate, Disodium Babassuamido MEA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Caproamphodiacetate, Disodium Caproamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloam- phodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloyl Glutamate, Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cetyl Phenyl Ether Disulfonate, Disodium Cetyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocamido MEA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocamido MIPA PEG-4 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocamido MIPA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocamido PEG-3 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Coceth-3 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocoamphocarboxyethylhydroxypropyl- sulfonate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Coco-Glucoside Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Coco-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocoyl Butyl Gluceth-10 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Disodium Cl 2-14 Pareth-1 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium C12-14 Pareth-2 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium C12-15 Pareth Sulfosuccinate, Disodium C12-14 Sec-Pareth-3 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cl 2-14 Sec-Pareth-5 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cl 2-14 Sec-Pareth-9 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cl 2-14 Sec-Pareth-12 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Deceth-5 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Deceth-6 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Decyl Phenyl Ether Disulfonate, Disodium Di hydroxyethyl Sulfosuccinylundecylenate, Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate, Disodium Hy- drogenated Cottonseed Glyceride Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Hydrogenated Tallow Glutamate, Disodium Hydroxydecyl Sorbitol Citrate, Disodium Isodecyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Isos- tearamido MEA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Isostearamido MIPA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Isos- tearoamphodiacetate, Disodium Isostearoamphodipropionate, Disodium Isostearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laneth-5 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauramido MEA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauramido MIPA Glycol Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauramido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauramido PEG-5 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-5 Carboxyamphodiacetate, Disodium Laureth-7 Citrate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-6 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-9 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-12 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lau- riminobishydroxypropylsulfonate, Disodium Lauriminodiacetate, Disodium Lauriminodipropi- onate, Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates, Disodium Lauroamphodiac- etate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium N- Lauroyl Aspartate, Disodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Disodium Lauryl Phenyl Ether Disulfonate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Myristamido MEA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Nonoxynol-10 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Oleamido MEA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Oleamido MIPA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Oleami- do PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Oleoamphodipropionate, Disodium Oleth-3 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Oleyl Phosphate, Disodium Oleyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Palmitamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Palmitoleamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium PEG-4 Cocamido MIPA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium PEG-12 Dimethicone Sulfosuccinate, Disodium PEG-8 Palm Glycerides Sulfosuccinate, Disodium PPG-2-lsodeceth-7 Carboxyamphodiacetate, Disodium Ricinoleamido MEA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Sitostereth-14 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Soyamphodiacetate, Disodium Stearamido MEA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Steariminodi- propionate, Disodium Stearoamphodiacetate, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Disodium Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate, Disodium Stearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate, Disodium 2- Sulfopalmitate, Disodium Tallamido MEA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Tallowamido MEA- Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Tallowamphodiacetate, Disodium Tallowiminodipropionate, Disodium Tallow Sulfosuccinamate, Disodium Tridecylsulfosuccinate, Disodium Undecylenamido MEA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Undecylenamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate, Disodium Wheat Germamido MEA-Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Wheat Germamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Wheatgermamphodiacetate, Di-TEA-Cocamide Diacetate, Di-TEA-Oleamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Di-TEA-Palmitoyl Aspartate, Ditridecyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dodecylbenzene Sulfonic Acid, Erucamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Ethylhexeth-3 Carboxylic Acid, Ethyl PEG-15 Cocamine Sulfate, Glyceryl Capryl Ether, Hexyldecanoic Acid, Hydrogenated Coconut Acid, Hydrogenated Laneth-25, Hydrogenated Menhaden Acid, Hydrogenated Palm Acid, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Amine Oxide, Hydrogenated Tallow Acid, Hydrogenated Tallowamine Oxide, Hydrogenated Tallow Betaine, Hydrogenated Talloweth-25, Hydrogenated Tallowoyl Glutamic Acid, Hydrolyzed Candida Bombicola Extract, Hydroxyceteth-60, Hydroxyethyl Acetomonium PG-Dimethicone, Hydroxyethylbutylamine Laureth Sulfate, Hydroxyethyl Carboxymethyl Cocamidopropylamine, Hydroxyethyl Hydroxypropyl C12-15 Alkoxypropylamine Oxide, Hydroxylauryl/Hydroxymyristyl Betaine, Hydroxystearic Acid, Hydroxysuccinimidyl C10-40 Isoalkyl Acidate, Hydroxysuccinimidyl C21 - 22 Isoalkyl Acidate, Hydroxysultaines, IPDI/PEG-15 Soyamine Oxide Copolymer, IPDI/PEG-15 Soyethonium Ethosulfate Copolymer, IPDI/PEG-15 Soy Glycinate Copolymer, lsoceteth-30, lsolaureth-4 Phosphate, lsopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethicone, lsopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethiconol, Isopropanolamine Lanolate, Isopropylamine Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, Isostearamidopropyla- mine Oxide, Isostearamidopropyl Betaine, Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine Oxide, Isos- teareth-8, lsosteareth-16, lsosteareth-22, lsosteareth-25, lsosteareth-50, Isostearic Acid, Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Jojoba Oil PEG-150 Esters, Jojoba Wax PEG-80 Esters, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, Laneth-20, Laneth-25, Laneth-40, Laneth-50, Laneth-60, Laneth-75, Lanolin Acid, Lauramidopropylamine Oxide, Lauramidopropyl Betaine, Lauramidopropyl Hy- droxysultaine, Lauramine Oxide, Lauraminopropionic Acid, Laurdimoniumhydroxypropyl Decylglucosides Chloride, Laurdimoniumhydroxypropyl Laurylglucosides Chloride, Laureth- 16, Laureth-20, Laureth-21, Laureth-23, Laureth-25, Laureth-30, Laureth-38, Laureth-40, Lau- reth-3 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-4 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth- 6 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-8 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-10 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-11 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-12 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-13 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-14 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-17 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-6 Citrate, Laureth-7 Citrate, Laureth-1 Phosphate, Lau- reth-2 Phosphate, Laureth-3 Phosphate, Laureth-4 Phosphate, Laureth-7 Phosphate, Laureth- 8 Phosphate, Laureth-7 Tartrate, Laurie Acid, Laurimino Bispropanediol, Lauriminodipropionic Acid, Lauroamphodipropionic Acid, Lauroyl Beta-Alanine, Lauroyl Collagen Amino Acids, Lauroyl Ethyltrimonium Methosulfate, Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Elastin, Lauroyl Methyl Glucamide, Lauroyl Sarcosine, Lauroyl Silk Amino Acids, Lauryl Betaine, Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Lauryldimoniumhydroxypropyl Cocoglucosides Chloride, Lauryl Glucoside, Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Lauryl Glycol Hydroxypropyl Ether, Lauryl Hydroxysultaine, Lauryl Malamide, Lauryl Methylglucamide, Lau- ryl/Myristyl Glycol Hydroxypropyl Ether, Lauryl/Myristyl Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides, Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Lauryl Pyrrolidone, Lauryl Sultaine, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Linseed Acid, Lysine Cocoate, Macadamia Seed Oil Glycereth-8 Esters, Magnesium Coceth Sulfate, Magnesium Coco-Sulfate, Magnesium Isododecylbenzenesulfonate, Magnesium Laureth-11 Carboxylate, Magnesium Laureth Sulfate, Magnesium Lau- reth-5 Sulfate, Magnesium Laureth-8 Sulfate, Magnesium Laureth-16 Sulfate, Magnesium Laureth-3 Sulfosuccinate, Magnesium Lauryl Hydroxypropyl Sulfonate, Magnesium Lauryl Sulfate, Magnesium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Magnesium Myreth Sulfate, Magnesium Oleth Sulfate, Magnesium/TEA-Coco-Sulfate, Manicouagan Clay, MEA-Cocoate, MEA-Laureth-6 Carboxylate, MEA- Laureth Sulfate, MEA-Lauryl Sulfate, MEA PPG-6 Laureth-7 Carboxylate, MEA-PPG-8-Steareth-7 Carboxylate, MEA-Undecylenate, Meroxapol 108, Meroxapol 174, Meroxapol 178, Meroxapol 254, Meroxapol 255, Meroxapol 258, Meroxapol 314, Methoxy PEG-450 Amidoglutaroyl Succinimide, Methoxy PEG-450 Amido Hydroxysuccinimidyl Suc- cinamate, Methoxy PEG-450 Maleimide, Methyl Morpholine Oxide, Milkamidopropyl Amine Oxide, Milkamidopropyl Betaine, Minkamidopropylamine Oxide, Minkamidopropyl Betaine, MIPA C12-15 Pareth Sulfate, MIPA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, MIPA-Laureth Sulfate, MIPA- Lauryl Sulfate, Mixed Isopropanolamines Lanolate, Mixed Isopropanolamines Lauryl Sulfate, Mixed Isopropanolamines Myristate, Morpholine Oleate, Morpholine Stearate, Myreth-3 Carboxylic Acid, Myreth-5 Carboxylic Acid, Myristalkonium Chloride, Myristamidopropylamine Oxide, Myristamidopropyl Betaine, Myristamidopropyl Dimethylamine Phosphate, Myristami- dopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Myristamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Myrista- mine Oxide, Myristaminopropionic Acid, Myristic Acid, Myristoyl Ethyltrimonium Methosulfate, Myristoyl Glutamic Acid, Myristoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Myristoyl Sarcosine, Myristyl Betaine, Myristyl/Cetyl Amine Oxide, Myristyldimoniumhydroxypropyl Cocoglucosides Chloride, Myristyl Glucoside, Myristyl Phosphate, Nonoxynol-20, Nonoxynol-23, Nonoxynol-25, Nonoxynol-30, Nonoxynol-35, Nonoxynol-40, Nonoxynol-44, Nonoxynol-50, Nonoxynol-100, Nonoxynol-120, Nonoxynol-5 Carboxylic Acid, Nonoxynol-8 Carboxylic Acid, Nonoxynol-10 Carboxylic Acid, Nonoxynol-3 Phosphate, Nonoxynol-4 Phosphate, Nonoxynol-6 Phosphate, Nonoxynol-9 Phosphate, Nonoxynol-10 Phosphate, Nonyl Nonoxynol-30, Nonyl Nonoxynol- 49, Nonyl Nonoxynol-100, Nonyl Nonoxynol-150, Nonyl Nonoxynol-7 Phosphate, Nonyl Nonoxynol-8 Phosphate, Nonyl Nonoxynol-9 Phosphate, Nonyl Nonoxynol-10 Phosphate, Nonyl Nonoxynol-11 Phosphate, Nonyl Nonoxynol-15 Phosphate, Nonyl Nonoxynol-24 Phosphate, Oatamidopropyl Betaine, Octoxynol-16, Octoxynol-25, Octoxynol-30, Octoxynol- 33, Octoxynol-40, Octoxynol-70, Octoxynol-20 Carboxylic Acid, Octyldodeceth-20, Oc- tyldodeceth-25, Octyldodeceth-30, Oleamidopropylamine Oxide, Oleamidopropyl Betaine, Oleamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Oleamine Oxide, Oleic Acid, Oleoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Oleoyl Sarcosine, Oleth-20, Oleth-23, Oleth-24, Oleth-25, Oleth-30, Oleth-35, Oleth-40, Oleth-44, Oleth-50, Oleth-3 Carboxylic Acid, Oleth-6 Carboxylic Acid, Oleth-10 Carboxylic Acid, Oleyl Betaine, Olivamidopropylamine Oxide, Olivamidopropyl Betaine, Olive Acid, Oli- voyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ophiopogon Extract Stearate, Ozonized Oleth-10, Ozonized PEG-10 Oleate, Ozonized PEG-14 Oleate, Ozonized Polysorbate 80, Palm Acid, Pal- mamidopropyl Betaine, Palmeth-2 Phosphate, Palmitamidopropylamine Oxide, Palmitami- dopropyl Betaine, Palmitamine Oxide, Palmitic Acid, Palmitoyl Collagen Amino Acids, Palmitoyl Glycine, Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Palmitoyl Keratin Amino Acids, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Silk Amino Acids, Palm Kernel Acid, Palm Kernelamidopropyl Betaine, Peach Kernel Oil Glycereth-8 Esters, Peanut Acid, PEG- 10 Castor Oil, PEG-40 Castor Oil, PEG-44 Castor Oil, PEG-50 Castor Oil, PEG-54 Castor Oil, PEG-55 Castor Oil, PEG-60 Castor Oil, PEG-80 Castor Oil, PEG-100 Castor Oil, PEG-200 Castor Oil, PEG-11 Cocamide, PEG-6 Cocamide Phosphate, PEG-4 Cocamine, PEG-8 Cocamine, PEG-12 Cocamine, PEG-150 Dibehenate, PEG-90 Diisostearate, PEG-75 Dilaurate, PEG-150 Dilaurate, PEG-75 Dioleate, PEG-150 Dioleate, PEG-75 Distearate, PEG-120 Distearate, PEG-150 Distearate, PEG-175 Distearate, PEG-190 Distearate, PEG-250 Distearate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-78 Glyceryl Co- coate, PEG-80 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Isostearate, PEG-40 Glyceryl Isostearate, PEG-50 Glyceryl Isostearate, PEG-60 Glyceryl Isostearate, PEG-90 Glyceryl Isostearate, PEG-23 Glyceryl Laurate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Laurate, PEG-25 Glyceryl Oleate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Oleate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Soyate, PEG-25 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-40 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-120 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-28 Glyceryl Tallowate, PEG-80 Glyceryl Tallowate, PEG-82 Glyceryl Tallowate, PEG-130 Glyceryl Tallowate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Tallowate, PEG-45 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG- 54 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-55 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Lanolin, PEG-70 Hydrogenated Lanolin, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Palmamide, PEG-2 Isostearate, PEG-3 Isostearate, PEG-4 Isostearate, PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-10 Isostearate, PEG-12 Isostearate, PEG-20 Isostearate, PEG- 30 Isostearate, PEG-40 Isostearate, PEG- 26 Jojoba Acid, PEG-40 Jojoba Acid, PEG-15 Jojoba Alcohol, PEG-26 Jojoba Alcohol, PEG-40 Jojoba Alcohol, PEG-35 Lanolin, PEG-40 Lanolin, PEG-50 Lanolin, PEG-55 Lanolin, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG- 70 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin, PEG-85 Lanolin, PEG-100 Lanolin, PEG-150 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin Oil, PEG-2 Lauramide, PEG-3 Lau- ramine Oxide, PEG-20 Laurate, PEG-32 Laurate, PEG-75 Laurate, PEG-150 Laurate, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, PEG-20 Mannitan Laurate, PEG-8 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-80 Methyl Glucose Laurate, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, PEG-4 Montanate, PEG-30 Oleamine, PEG-20 Oleate, PEG-23 Oleate, PEG-32 Oleate, PEG-36 Oleate, PEG-75 Oleate, PEG-150 Oleate, PEG-20 Palmitate, PEG-150 Polyglyceryl-2 Tristearate, PEG/PPG-28/21 Acetate Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-24/18 Butyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 3/17 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-5/35 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-8/55 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-10/30 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-10/65 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-12/35 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-16/17 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-20/9 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-20/20 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-20/60 Copolymer, PEG/PPG- 20/65 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-22/25 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-28/30 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-30-35 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-30/55 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-35/40 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-50/40 Copolymer, PEG/PPG- 150/35 Copolymer, PEG/PPG- 160/30 Copolymer, PEG/PPG- 190/60 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-200/40 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-300/55 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-20/22 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-26-PPG-30 Phosphate, PEG/PPG-4/2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG/PPG-6/2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG-7/PPG-2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG/PPG-8/2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG/PPG- 10/2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG/PPG-14/2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG/PPG-40/2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG/PPG-10/2 Ricinoleate, PEG/PPG- 32/3 Ricinoleate, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, PEG-25 Propylene Glycol Stearate, PEG-75 Propylene Glycol Stearate, PEG-120 Propylene Glycol Stearate, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol, PEG- 10 Rapeseed Sterol, PEG-40 Ricinoleamide, PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, PEG-75 Shorea Butter Glycerides, PEG-20 Sorbitan Cocoate, PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate, PEG-40 Sorbitan Lanolate, PEG-75 Sorbitan Lanolate, PEG-10 Sorbitan Laurate, PEG-40 Sorbitan Laurate, PEG- 44 Sorbitan Laurate, PEG-75 Sorbitan Laurate, PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, PEG-20 Sorbitan Oleate, PEG-80 Sorbitan Palmitate, PEG-40 Sorbitan Stearate, PEG-60 Sorbitan Stearate, PEG-160 Sorbitan Triisostearate, PEG-40 Soy Sterol, PEG-2 Stearamide Carboxylic Acid, PEG-9 Stearamide Carboxylic Acid, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-23 Stearate, PEG-25 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-35 Stearate, PEG-36 Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-45 Stearate, PEG- 50 Stearate, PEG-55 Stearate, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-90 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG- 120 Stearate, PEG-150 Stearate, PEG-45 Stearate Phosphate, PEG-20 Tallate, PEG-50 Tallow Amide, PEG-2 Tallowamide DEA, PEG-20 Tallowate, PEG-66 Trihydroxystearin, PEG-200 Trihy- droxystearin, PEG-60 Tsubakiate Glycerides, Pelargonic Acid, Pentadoxynol-200, Pheneth-6 Phosphate, Poloxamer 105, Poloxamer 108, Poloxamer 182, Poloxamer 183, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 188, Poloxamer 217, Poloxamer 234, Poloxamer 235, Poloxamer 237, Poloxamer 238, Poloxamer 288, Poloxamer 334, Poloxamer 335, Poloxamer 338, Poloxamine 908, Polox- amine 1508, Polydimethylsiloxy PEG/PPG-24/19 Butyl Ether Silsesquioxane, Polydime- thylsiloxy PPG-13 Butyl Ether Silsesquioxane, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-20 Heptacaprylate, Polyglyceryl-20 Hexacaprylate, Polyglyceryl-2 Lauryl Ether, Polyglyceryl- 10 Lauryl Ether, Polyglyceryl-20 Octaisononanoate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentacaprylate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentacaprylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethi- cone, Polyglyceryl-6 Tetracaprylate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tetralaurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Tricaprylate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trilaurate, Polyquaternium- 77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81, Polyquaternium- 82, Pomaderris Kumerahou Flow- er/Leaf Extract, Poria Cocos Extract, Potassium Abietoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Potassium Ba- bassuate, Potassium Behenate, Potassium C9-15 Alkyl Phosphate, Potassium Cl 1 -15 Alkyl Phosphate, Potassium C 12-13 Alkyl Phosphate, Potassium Cl 2-14 Alkyl Phosphate, Potassium Caprate, Potassium Capryloyl Glutamate, Potassium Capryloyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Potassium Castorate, Potassium Cocoate, Potassium Cocoyl Glutamate, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Potato Protein, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Potassium Cocoyl PCA, Potassium Cocoyl Sarcosinate, Potassium Cocoyl Taurate, Potassium Cornate, Potassium Cyclocarboxypropyloleate, Potassium Di hydroxyethyl Cocamine Oxide Phosphate, Potassium Dimethi- cone PEG-7 Phosphate, Potassium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, Potassium Hempseedate, Potassium Hydrogenated Cocoate, Potassium Hydrogenated Palmate, Potassium Hydrogenated Tallowate, Potassium Hydroxystearate, Potassium Isostearate, Potassium Lanolate, Potassium Laurate, Potassium Laureth-3 Carboxylate, Potassium Laureth-4 Carboxylate, Potassium Lau- reth-5 Carboxylate, Potassium Laureth-6 Carboxylate, Potassium Laureth-10 Carboxylate, Potassium Laureth Phosphate, Potassium Lauroyl Collagen Amino Acids, Potassium Lauroyl Glutamate, Potassium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Potassium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Potassium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Potassium Lauroyl PCA, Potassium Lauroyl Pea Amino Acids, Potassium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Potassium Lauroyl Silk Amino Acids, Potassium Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acids, Potassium Lauryl Phosphate, Potassium Lauryl Sulfate, Potassium Linoleate, Potassium Metaphosphate, Potassium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Potassium Myristate, Potassium Myristoyl Glutamate, Potassium Myristoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Potassium Oc- toxynol-12 Phosphate, Potassium Oleate, Potassium Oleoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Potassium Olivate, Potassium Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Potassium Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Potassium Olivoyl/Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acids, Potassium Olivoyl PCA, Potassium Palmate, Potassium Palmitate, Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond Protein, Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Potassium Palm Kernelate, Potassium Peanutate, Potassium Rapeseedate, Potassium Ricinoleate, Potassium Safflowerate, Potassium Soyate, Potassium Stearate, Potassium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Potassium Tallate, Potassium Tallowate, Potassium Taurate, Potassium Taurine Laurate, Potassium Trideceth-3 Carboxylate, Potassium Trideceth-4 Carboxylate, Potassium Trideceth-7 Carboxylate, Potassium Trideceth-15 Carboxylate, Potassium Trideceth- 19 Carboxylate, Potassium Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Potassium Trideceth-7 Phosphate, Potassium Tsubakiate, Potassium Undecylenate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, PPG-30- Buteth-30, PPG-36-Buteth-36, PPG- 38-Buteth-37, PPG-30-Capryleth-4 Phosphate, PPG-10 Cetyl Ether Phosphate, PPG-2 C9-11 Pareth-8, PPG-1 -Deceth-5, PPG-3-Deceth-2 Carboxylic Acid, PPG-30 Ethylhexeth-4 Phosphate, PPG-20-Glycereth-30, PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Coco/lsostearamide, PPG-2- lsodeceth-8, PPG-2-lsodeceth-10, PPG-2-lsodeceth-18, PPG-2-lsodeceth-25, PPG-4-lsodeceth-10, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-24, Quaternium-52, Quaternium-87, Rapeseed Acid, Rice Bran Acid, Rice Oil Glycereth-8 Esters, Ricinoleamidopropyl Betaine, Ric- inoleic Acid, Ricinoleth-40, Safflower Acid, Sapindus Oahuensis Fruit Extract, Saponaria Officinalis Root Powder, Saponins, Sekken-K, Sekken-Na/K, Sekken Soji, Sekken Soji-K, Sesame Oil Glycereth-8 Esters, Sesamidopropylamine Oxide, Sesamidopropyl Betaine, Shea Butterami- dopropyl Betaine, Shea Butter Glycereth-8 Esters, Sodium Arachidate, Sodium Arganam- pohoacetate, Sodium Astrocaryum Murumuruate, Sodium Avocadoate, Sodium Babassuam- phoacetate, Sodium Babassuate, Sodium Babassu Sulfate, Sodium Behenate, Sodium Bisglycol Ricinosulfosuccinate, Sodium Bis- Hydroxyethylglycinate Coco-Glucosides Crosspolymer, Sodium Bis-Hydroxyethylglycinate Lauryl- Glucosides Crosspolymer, Sodium Borageami- dopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Sodium Butoxynol-12 Sulfate, Sodium Butylglucosides Hydroxypropyl Phosphate, Sodium Cl 3-17 Alkane Sulfonate, Sodium C14-18 Alkane Sulfonate, Sodium C12-15 Alkoxypropyl Iminodipropionate, Sodium C10-16 Alkyl Sulfate, Sodium Cl 1-15 Alkyl Sulfate, Sodium C12-13 Alkyl Sulfate, Sodium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate, Sodium C12-18 Alkyl Sulfate, Sodium C16-20 Alkyl Sulfate, Sodium C9-22 Alkyl Sec Sulfonate, Sodium C14-17 Alkyl Sec Sulfonate, Sodium Caprate, Sodium Caproamphoacetate, Sodium Caproamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Caproamphopropionate, Sodium Caproyl Me- thyltaurate, Sodium Caprylate, Sodium Capryleth-2 Carboxylate, Sodium Capryleth-9 Carboxylate, Sodium Capryloamphoacetate, Sodium Capryloamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Capryloamphopropionate, Sodium Capryloyl Glutamate, Sodium Capryloyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Caprylyl PG-Sulfonate, Sodium Caprylyl Sulfonate, Sodium Castorate, Sodium Ceteareth-13 Carboxylate, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Sodium Ceteth-13 Carboxylate, Sodium Cetyl Sulfate, Sodium Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Sodium Co- caminopropionate, Sodium Coceth Sulfate, Sodium Coceth-30 Sulfate, Sodium Cocoabut- teramphoacetate, Sodium Cocoa Butterate, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Sodium Cocoam- phohydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Cocoamphopropionate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Co- co/Babassu/Andiroba Sulfate, Sodium Coco/Babassu Sulfate, Sodium Cocoglucosides Hy- droxypropyl Phosphate, Sodium Cocoglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Coco- Glucoside Tartrate, Sodium Cocoglyceryl Ether Sulfonate, Sodium Coco/Hydrogenated Tallow Sulfate, Sodium Cocoiminodiacetate, Sodium Cocomonoglyceride Sulfate, Sodium Co- comonoglyceride Sulfonate, Sodium Coco PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Sodium Coco- Sulfate, Sodium Coco Sulfoacetate, Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate, Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Sodium Cocoyl Collagen Amino Acids, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutami- nate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Sodium Cocoyl/Hydrogenated Tallow Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond Protein, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Cocoyl Methylaminopropionate, Sodium Cocoyl Oat Amino Acids, Sodium Co- coyl/Palmoyl/Sunfloweroyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Proline, Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Cocoyl Threoninate, Sodium Cocoyl Wheat Amino Acids, Sodium C12-14 Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium C14- 18 Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium Cl 6-18 Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium Cornamphopropionate, Sodium Cotton- seedamphoacetate, Sodium C13-15 Pareth-8 Butyl Phosphate, Sodium C9-11 Pareth-6 Carboxylate, Sodium Cl 1 -15 Pareth-7 Carboxylate, Sodium C12-13 Pareth-5 Carboxylate, Sodium C12-13 Pareth-8 Carboxylate, Sodium C12-13 Pareth-12 Carboxylate, Sodium C12-15 Pareth-6 Carboxylate, Sodium C12-15 Pareth-7 Carboxylate, Sodium C12-15 Pareth-8 Carboxylate, Sodium C14-15 Pareth-8 Carboxylate, Sodium C12-14 Sec-Pareth-8 Carboxylate, Sodium C14-15 Pareth-PG Sulfonate, Sodium C12-13 Pareth-2 Phosphate, Sodium C13-15 Pareth-8 Phosphate, Sodium C9-15 Pareth-3 Sulfate, Sodium C10-15 Pareth Sulfate, Sodium CIO-16 Pareth-2 Sulfate, Sodium C12-13 Pareth Sulfate, Sodium C12-15 Pareth Sulfate, Sodium C12-15 Pareth-3 Sulfate, Sodium C13-15 Pareth-3 Sulfate, Sodium C12-14 Sec-Pareth-3 Sulfate, Sodium C12-15 Pareth-3 Sulfonate, Sodium Cl 2-15 Pareth-7 Sulfonate, Sodium C12- 15 Pareth-15 Sulfonate, Sodium Deceth-2 Carboxylate, Sodium Deceth Sulfate, Sodium Decylbenzenesulfonate, Sodium Decylglucosides Hydroxypropyl Phosphate, Sodium Decylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Dilaureth-7 Citrate, Sodium Dilaureth-10 Phosphate, Sodium Dilinoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Sodium Dilinoleate, Sodium Dioleth-8 Phosphate, Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, Sodium Ethyl 2- Sulfolaurate, Sodium Glyceryl Oleate Phosphate, Sodium Grapeseedamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Sodium Grapeseedamphoacetate, Sodium Grapeseedate, Sodium Hempseedamphoacetate, Sodium Hexeth-4 Carboxylate, Sodium Hydrogenated Cocoate, Sodium Hydrogenated Cocoyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Hydrogenated Palmate, Sodium Hydrogenated Tallowate, Sodium Hydrogenated Tallowoyl Glutamate, Sodium Hydroxylau- ryldimonium Ethyl Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Palm Kernelate Sulfonate, Sodium Hydroxypropylphosphate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxypropylphosphate Laurylglucoside Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxypropylsulfonate Cocoglucoside Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxypropylsulfonate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxypropyl- sulfonate Laurylglucoside Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxystearate, Sodium Isostearate, Sodi- um lsosteareth-6 Carboxylate, Sodium Isosteareth- 11 Carboxylate, Sodium Isostearoampho- acetate, Sodium Isostearoamphopropionate, Sodium N- Isostearoyl Methyltaurate, Sodium Laneth Sulfate, Sodium Lanolate, Sodium Lardate, Sodium Lauramido Diacetate, Sodium Lau- raminopropionate, Sodium Laurate, Sodium Laureth-3 Carboxylate, Sodium Laureth-4 Carboxylate, Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate, Sodium Laureth-6 Carboxylate, Sodium Laureth-8 Carboxylate, Sodium Laureth-11 Carboxylate, Sodium Laureth-12 Carboxylate, Sodium Lau- reth-13 Carboxylate, Sodium Laureth-14 Carboxylate, Sodium Laureth-16 Carboxylate, Sodium Laureth-17 Carboxylate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Laureth-5 Sulfate, Sodium Lau- reth- 7 Sulfate, Sodium Laureth-8 Sulfate, Sodium Laureth-12 Sulfate, Sodium Laureth-40 Sulfate, Sodium Laureth-7 Tartrate, Sodium Lauriminodipropionate, Sodium Lauroamphoace- tate, Sodium Lauroamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Lauroampho PG-Acetate Phosphate, Sodium Lauroamphopropionate, Sodium Lauroyl Aspartate, Sodium Lauroyl Collagen Amino Acids, Sodium Lauroyl Glycine Propionate, Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Sodium Lauroyl Hydroxypropyl Sulfonate, Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Methylaminopropionate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Millet Amino Acids, Sodium Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate, Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Lauroyl Silk Amino Acids, Sodium Lauroyl Taurate, Sodium Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acids, Sodium Lauryl Diethylenediaminoglycinate, Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropyl Phosphate, Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Lauryl Glycol Carboxylate, Sodium Lauryl Hydroxyacetamide Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Phosphate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Linoleate, Sodium Macadamiaseedate, Sodium Mangoampho- acetate, Sodium Mangoseedate, Sodium/MEA Laureth-2 Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Methoxy PPG-2 Acetate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Methyl Lauroyl Taurate, Sodium Methyl Myristoyl Taurate, Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate, Sodium Methyl Palmitoyl Taurate, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate, Sodium Methyl 2-Sulfolaurate, Sodium Methyl 2- Sulfopalmitate, Sodium Methyltaurate Isopalmitamide, Sodium Methyltaurine Cocoyl Methyltaurate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate, Sodium Myristate, Sodium Myristoamphoacetate, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Sodium Myristoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Myristoyl Isethionate, Sodium Myristoyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Myristyl Sulfate, Sodium Nonoxynol-6 Phosphate, Sodium Nonoxynol-9 Phosphate, Sodium Nonoxynol-1 Sulfate, Sodium Nonoxynol-3 Sulfate, Sodium Nonoxynol-4 Sulfate, Sodium Nonoxynol-6 Sulfate, Sodium Nonoxynol-8 Sulfate, Sodium Nonoxynol-10 Sulfate, Sodium Nonoxynol-25 Sulfate, Sodium Octoxynol-2 Ethane Sulfonate, Sodium Octoxynol-2 Sulfate, Sodium Octoxynol-6 Sulfate, Sodium Octoxynol-9 Sulfate, Sodium Oleate, Sodium Oleoamphoacetate, Sodium Oleoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Oleoamphopropionate, Sodium Oleoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Oleoyl Isethionate, Sodium Oleth Sulfate, Sodium Oleyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Oleyl Sulfate, Sodium Olivam- phoacetate, Sodium Olivate, Sodium Olivoyl Glutamate, Sodium Palmamphoacetate, Sodium Palmate, Sodium Palm Glyceride Sulfonate, Sodium Palmitate, Sodium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Palm Kerneloyl Isethionate, Sodium Palmoyl Glutamate, Sodium Passiflora Edulis Seedate, Sodium Peanutamphoacetate, Sodium Peanutate, Sodium PEG-6 Cocamide Carboxylate, Sodium PEG-8 Cocamide Carboxylate, Sodium PEG-4 Cocamide Sulfate, Sodium PEG-3 Lauramide Carboxylate, Sodium PEG-4 Lauramide Carboxylate, Sodium PEG-8 Palm Glycerides Carboxylate, Sodium Pentaerythrityl Hydroxypropyl Iminodiacetate Dendrimer, Sodium Propoxy PPG-2 Acetate, Sodium Rapeseedate, Sodium Ricebranampho- acetate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleoamphoacetate, Sodium Rose Hipsamphoace- tate, Sodium Rosinate, Sodium Safflowerate, Sodium Saffloweroyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sodium Sesameseedate, Sodium Sesamphoacetate, Sodium Sheabutteramphoacetate, Sodium Soyate, Sodium Soy Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Stearoamphoacetate, Sodium Stearoamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, Sodium Stearoamphopropionate, Sodium Stearoyl Casein, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Stearoyl Hyaluronate, Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Stearoyl Lactalbumin, Sodium Stearoyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Stearoyl Oat Protein, Sodium Stearoyl Pea Protein, Sodium Stearoyl Soy Protein, Sodium Stearyl Dimethyl Glycine, Sodium Stearyl Sulfate, Sodium Sunflowerseedamphoacetate, Sodium Surfactin, Sodium Sweetalmondamphoacetate, Sodium Sweet Almondate, Sodium Tallamphopropionate, Sodium Tallate, Sodium Tallowamphoacetate, Sodium Tallowate, Sodium Tallow Sulfate, Sodium Tamanuseedate, Sodium Taurate, Sodium Taurine Cocoyl Methyltaurate, Sodium Taurine Laurate, Sodium/TEA-Lauroyl Collagen Amino Acids, Sodium/TEA-Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium/TEA-Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Sodium/TEA- Lauroyl Keratin Amino Acids, Sodium/TEA-Undecylenoyl Collagen Amino Acids, Sodium/TEA- Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium/TEA-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Sodium/TEA- Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sodium/TEA-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Theobroma Grandiflorum Seedate, Sodium Trideceth-3 Carboxylate, Sodium Tride- ceth-4 Carboxylate, Sodium Trideceth-6 Carboxylate, Sodium Trideceth-7 Carboxylate, Sodium Trideceth-8 Carboxylate, Sodium Trideceth-12 Carboxylate, Sodium Trideceth-15 Carboxylate, Sodium Trideceth-19 Carboxylate, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Sodium Tridecylbenzenesulfonate, Sodium Tridecyl Sulfate, Sodium Trimethylolpropane Hydroxypropyl Iminodiacetate Dendrimer, Sodium Undeceth-5 Carboxylate, Sodium Undecylenate, Sodium Undecylen- oamphoacetate, Sodium Undecylenoamphopropionate, Sodium Undecylenoyl Glutamate, Sodium Wheat Germamphoacetate, Sorbeth-160 Tristearate, Soy Acid, Soyamidopropylamine Oxide, Soyamidopropyl Betaine, Soybean Oil Glycereth-8 Esters, Stearamidopropylamine Oxide, Stearamidopropyl Betaine, Stearamine Oxide, Steareth-15, Steareth-16, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-25, Steareth-27, Steareth-30, Steareth- 40, Steareth-50, Steareth-80, Steareth-100, Steareth-2 Phosphate, Steareth-3 Phosphate, Stearic Acid, Stea roxyp ropy It ri- monium Chloride, Stearoyl Glutamic Acid, Stearoyl Sarcosine, Stearyl Betaine, Stearyldimoni- umhyd roxyp ropy I Butylglucosides Chloride, Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl Decylglucosides Chloride, Stearyldimoniumhydroxypropyl Laurylglucosides Chloride, Sulfated Castor Oil, Sulfated Coconut Oil, Sulfated Glyceryl Oleate, Sulfated Olive Oil, Sulfated Peanut Oil, Sunflow- eramide MEA, Sunflower Seed Acid, Sunflowerseedamidopropyl Hydroxyethyldimonium Chloride, Sunflower Seed Oil Glycereth-8 Esters, Tall Oil Acid, Tallow Acid, Tallowamidoprop- ylamine Oxide, Tallowamidopropyl Betaine, Tallowamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Tallowamine Oxide, Tallow Betaine, Tallow Dihydroxyethyl Betaine, Tallowoyl Ethyl Glucoside, TEA-Abietoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, TEA-C12-14 Alkyl Phosphate, TEA-C10-15 Alkyl Sulfate, TEA-C11-15 Alkyl Sulfate, TEA- C12-13 Alkyl Sulfate, TEA-C12-14 Alkyl Sulfate, TEA-C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate, TEA C14-17 Alkyl Sec Sulfonate, TEA-Canolate, TEA-Cocamide Diacetate, TEA-Cocoate, TEA- Coco-Sulfate, TEA-Cocoyl Alaninate, TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate, TEA-Cocoyl Glutaminate, TEA- Cocoyl Glycinate, TEA-Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, TEA-Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, TEA- Cocoyl Sarcosinate, TEA- Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, TEA- Hydrogenated Cocoate, TEA- Hydrogenated Tallowoyl Glutamate, TEA- Isostea rate, TEA- Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, TEA- Lauraminopropionate, TEA-Laurate, TEA- Laurate/Myristate, TEA-Laureth Sulfate, TEA-Lauroyl Collagen Amino Acids, TEA-Lauroyl Glutamate, TEA-Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, TEA-Lauroyl Keratin Amino Acids, TEA-Lauroyl Methylaminopropionate, TEA-Lauroyl/Myristoyl Aspartate, TEA- Lauroyl Sarcosinate, TEA-Lauryl Phosphate, TEA-Lauryl Sulfate, TEA-Myristaminopropionate, TEA- Myristate, TEA-Myristoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, TEA-Oleate, TEA-Oleoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, TEA- Oleoyl Sarcosinate, TEA-Oleyl Sulfate, TEA-Palmitate, TEA-Palm Kernel Sarcosinate, TEA-PEG-3 Cocamide Sulfate, TEA-Rosinate, TEA-Stearate, TEA-Tallate, TEA-T ridecylbenzenesulfonate, TEA- Undecylenate, TEA-Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Tetramethyl Decynediol, Tetrasodium Dicarboxyethyl Stearyl Sulfosuccinamate, TIPA-Laureth Sulfate, TIPA-Lauryl Sulfate, TIPA-Myristate, TIPA- Stearate, Tocopheryl Phosphate, Trehalose Undecylenoate, TM-C12-15 Pareth-2 Phosphate, TM-C12-15 Pareth-6 Phosphate, TM-C12-15 Pareth-8 Phosphate, TM-C12-15 Pareth-10 Phosphate, Trideceth-20, Trideceth-50, Trideceth-3 Carboxylic Acid, Trideceth-4 Carboxylic Acid, Trideceth-7 Carboxylic Acid, Trideceth-8 Carboxylic Acid, Trideceth-15 Carboxylic Acid, Trideceth-19 Carboxylic Acid, Trideceth-10 Phosphate, Tridecylbenzenesulfonic Acid, Trilau- reth-9 Citrate, Trimethylolpropane Hydroxypropyl Bis-Hydroxyethylamine Dendrimer, Trisodium Lauroampho PG-Acetate Chloride Phosphate, Undecanoic Acid, Undeceth-5 Carboxylic Acid, Undecylenamidopropylamine Oxide, Undecylenamidopropyl Betaine, Undecylenic Acid, Undecylenoyl Collagen Amino Acids, Undecylenoyl Glycine, Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Undecylenoyl Wheat Amino Acids, Undecyl Glucoside, Wheat Germ Acid, Wheat Ger- mamidopropylamine Oxide, Wheat Germamidopropyl Betaine, Yucca Schidigera Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Yucca Schidigera Stem Extract, Zinc Coceth Sulfatea and Zinc Coco- Sulfate.
[0037] Preferred are one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, CocoGlucoside and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate.
[0038] The percentage content of surfactants in the preparations may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight and is preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the preparation. Non-ionic surfactants
[0039] Alkohol alkoxylates. The added nonionic surfactants are preferably alkoxylated and/or propoxylated, particularly primary alcohols having preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms and an average of 1 to 12 mol ethylene oxide (EO) and/or 1 to 10 mol propylene oxide (PO) per mol alcohol. Cs-Ci6-Alcohol alkoxylates, advantageously ethoxylated and/or propoxylated Cio-Cis-alcohol alkoxylates, particularly C12-C14 alcohol alkoxylates, with an ethoxylation degree between 2 and 10, preferably between 3 and 8, and/or a propoxylation degree between 1 and 6, preferably between 1.5 and 5, are particularly preferred. The cited degrees of ethoxylation and propoxylation constitute statistical average values that can be a whole or a fractional number for a specific product. Preferred alcohol ethoxylates and propoxylates have a narrowed homolog distribution (narrow range ethoxylates/propoxylates, NRE/NRP). In addition to these nonionic surfactants, fatty alcohols with more than 12 EO can also be used. Examples of these are (tallow) fatty alcohols with 14 EO, 16 EO, 20 EO, 25 EO, 30 EO or 40 EO.
[0040] Alkylglycosides (APG®). Furthermore, as additional nonionic surfactants, alkyl glycosides that satisfy the general Formula RO(G)X, can be added, e.g., as compounds, particularly with anionic surfactants, in which R means a primary linear or methyl-branched, particularly 2-methyl-branched, aliphatic group containing 8 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms and G stands for a glycose unit containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably for glucose. The degree of oligomerization x, which defines the distribution of monoglycosides and oligoglycosides, is any number between 1 and 10, preferably between 1.1 and 1.4.
[0041] Fatty acid ester alkoxylates. Another class of preferred nonionic surfactants, which are used either as the sole nonionic surfactant or in combination with other nonionic surfactants, in particular, together with alkoxylated fatty alcohols and/or alkyl glycosides, are alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated or ethoxylated and propoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters preferably containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, more particularly the fatty acid methyl esters which are described, for example, in Japanese Patent Application JP-A-58/217598 or which are preferably produced by the process described in International Patent Application WO-A-90/13533. Methyl esters of C 12-C18 fatty acids containing an average of 3 to 15 EO, particularly containing an average of 5 to 12 EO, are particularly preferred.
[0042] Amine oxides. Nonionic surfactants of the amine oxide type, for example, N-coco alkyl-N,N-dimethylamine oxide and N-tallow alkyl-N,N-dihydroxyethylamine oxide, and the fatty acid alkanolamides may also be suitable. The quantity in which these nonionic surfactants are used is preferably no more than the quantity in which the ethoxylated fatty alcohols are used and, particularly no more than half that quantity.
[0043] Gemini surfactants. The so-called gemini surfactants can be considered as further surfactants. Generally speaking, such compounds are understood to mean compounds that have two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups per molecule. As a rule, these groups are separated from one another by a "spacer". The spacer is usually a hydrocarbon chain that is intended to be long enough such that the hydrophilic groups are a sufficient distance apart to be able to act independently of one another. These types of surfactants are generally characterized by an unusually low critical micelle concentration and the ability to strongly reduce the surface tension of water. In exceptional cases, however, not only dimeric but also trimeric surfactants are meant by the term gemini surfactants. Suitable gemini surfactants are, for example, sulfated hydroxy mixed ethers according to German Patent Application DE 4321022 A1 or dimer alcohol bis- and trimer alcohol tris sulfates and ether sulfates according to International Patent Application WO 96/23768 A1. Blocked end group dimeric and trimeric mixed ethers according to German Patent Application DE 19513391 A1 are especially characterized by their bifunctionality and multifunctionality. Gemini polyhydroxyfatty acid amides or polyhydroxyfatty acid amides, such as those described in International Patent Applications WO 95/19953 A1, WO 95/19954 A1 and WO 95/19955 A1 can also be used.
Cationic surfactants
[0044] Tetraalkyl ammonium salts. Cationically active surfactants comprise the hydrophobic high molecular group required for the surface activity in the cation by dissociation in aqueous solution. A group of important representatives of the cationic surfactants are the tetraalkyl ammonium salts of the general formula: (R1R2R3R4N+) X". Here R1 stands for Ci-Cs alk(en)yl, R2, R3 and R4, independently of each other, for alk(en)yl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms. X is a counter ion, preferably selected from the group of the halides, alkyl sulfates and alkyl carbonates. Cationic surfactants, in which the nitrogen group is substituted with two long acyl groups and two short alk(en)yl groups, are particularly preferred.
[0045] Esterquats. A further class of cationic surfactants particularly useful as co-surfactants for the present invention is represented by the so-called esterquats. Esterquats are generally understood to be quaternised fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. These are known compounds which can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. Reference is made in this connection to International patent application WO 91/01295 A1, according to which triethanolamine is partly esterified with fatty acids in the presence of hy- pophosphorous acid, air is passed through the reaction mixture and the whole is then quaternised with dimethyl sulphate or ethylene oxide. In addition, German patent DE 4308794 C1 describes a process for the production of solid esterquats in which the quaterni- sation of triethanolamine esters is carried out in the presence of suitable dispersants, preferably fatty alcohols.
[0046] Typical examples of esterquats suitable for use in accordance with the invention are products of which the acyl component derives from monocarboxylic acids corresponding to formula RCOOH in which RCO is an acyl group containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and the amine component is triethanolamine (TEA). Examples of such monocarboxylic acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid and technical mixtures thereof such as, for example, so- called head-fractionated fatty acid. Esterquats of which the acyl component derives from monocarboxylic acids containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms, are preferably used. Other esterquats are those of which the acyl component derives from dicarboxylic acids like malonic acid, succinic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, sorbic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebac- ic acid and/or dodecanedioic acid, but preferably adipic acid. Overall, esterquats of which the acyl component derives from mixtures of monocarboxylic acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and adipic acid are preferably used. The molar ratio of mono and dicarboxylic acids in the final esterquat may be in the range from 1 :99 to 99:1 and is preferably in the range from 50:50 to 90:10 and more particularly in the range from 70:30 to 80:20. Besides the quater- nised fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, other suitable esterquats are quaternized ester salts of mono-/dicarboxylic acid mixtures with diethanolalkyamines or 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines. The esterquats may be obtained both from fatty acids and from the corresponding triglycerides in admixture with the corresponding dicarboxylic acids. One such process, which is intended to be representative of the relevant prior art, is proposed in European patent EP 0750606 B1. To produce the quaternised esters, the mixtures of mono- and dicarboxylic acids and the triethanolamine - based on the available carboxyl functions - may be used in a molar ratio of 1.1 :1 to 3:1. With the performance properties of the esterquats in mind, a ratio of 1.2:1 to 2.2:1 and preferably 1.5:1 to 1.9:1 has proved to be particularly advantageous. The preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9.
Amphoteric surfactants
[0047] Betaines. Amphoteric or ampholytic surfactants possess a plurality of functional groups that can ionize in aqueous solution and thereby— depending on the conditions of the medium— lend anionic or cationic character to the compounds (see DIN 53900, July 1972). Close to the isoelectric point (around pH 4), the amphoteric surfactants form inner salts, thus becoming poorly soluble or insoluble in water. Amphoteric surfactants are subdivided into ampholytes and betaines, the latter existing as zwitterions in solution. Ampholytes are amphoteric electrolytes, i.e. compounds that possess both acidic as well as basic hydrophilic groups and therefore behave as acids or as bases depending on the conditions. Especially betaines are known surfactants which are mainly produced by carboxyalkylation, preferably carboxymethylation, of amine compounds. The starting materials are preferably condensed with halocarboxylic acids or salts thereof, more particularly sodium chloroacetate, one mole of salt being formed per mole of betaine. The addition of unsaturated carboxylic acids, such as acrylic acid for example, is also possible. Examples of suitable betaines are the carboxy alkylation products of secondary and, in particular, tertiary amines which correspond to formula R1R2R3N-(CH2)qCOOX where R1 is a an alkyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R2 is hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R3 is an alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, q is a number of 1 to 6 and X is an alkali and/or alkaline earth metal or ammonium. Typical examples are the carboxymethylation products of hexylmethylamine, hexyldimethylamine, octyldimethylamine, decyldimethylamine, Ci2/i4-cocoalkyldimethyl- amine, myristyldimethylamine, cetyldimethylamine, stearyldimethylamine, stearylethylmethyl- amine, oleyldimethylamine, Ci6/i8-tallowalkyldimethylamine and their technical mixtures, and particularly dodecyl methylamine, dodecyl dimethylamine, dodecyl ethylmethylamine and technical mixtures thereof.
[0048] Alkylamido betaines. Other suitable betaines are the carboxyalkylation products of amidoamines corresponding to formula R1CO(R3)(R4)-NH-(CH2)P-N-(CH2)qCOOX in which R1CO is an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 or 1 to 3 double bonds, R2 is hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R3 is an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, p is a number from 1 to 6, q is a number from 1 to 3 and X is an alkali and/or alkaline earth metal or ammonium. Typical examples are reaction products of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, like for example caproic acid, caprylic acid, caprinic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linolic acid linoleic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and their technical mixtures with N,N-dimethylaminoethylamine, N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine, N,N-diethylaminoethylamine und N,N-diethylami- nopropylamine, which are condensed with sodium chloroacetate. The commercially available products include Dehyton® K and Dehyton® PK (Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co., KG) as well as Tego®Betaine (Goldschmidt).
[0049] Imidazolines. Other suitable starting materials for the betaines to be used for the purposes of the invention are imidazolines. These substances are also known and may be obtained, for example, by cyclizing condensation of 1 or 2 moles of Cg’Czz fatty acids with polyfunctional amines, such as for example aminoethyl ethanolamine (AEEA) or diethylenetriamine. The corresponding carboxyalkylation products are mixtures of different open-chain betaines. Typical examples are condensation products of the above- mentioned fatty acids with AEEA, preferably imidazolines based on lauric acid, which are subsequently betainised with sodium chloroacetate. The commercially available products include Dehyton® G (Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co., KG)
Oil bodies
[0050] Suitable oil bodies, which form constituents of the O/W emulsions, are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of linear Cg-C22-fatty acids with linear or branched Cg-C22-fatty alcohols or esters of branched Cg-C 13-carboxylic acids with linear or branched Cg-C 22-fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of linear Cg-C22-fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C18-C38- alkylhydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched Cg-C 22-fatty alcohols, in particular Dioctyl Malate, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as, for example, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C& -C -fatty acids, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on Cg-C -fatty acids, esters of C&- C22-fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C2- C -dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched Cg-C22-fatty alcohol carbonates, such as, for example, Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates, based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branched Cg-C22-alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicone methicone grades, etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
Emulsifiers
[0051] Other non-ionic or cationic surfactants may also be added to the preparations as emulsifiers, including for example:
• products of the addition of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear Cs-22 fatty alcohols, onto C12-22 fatty acids and onto alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• C12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto glycerol;
• glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms and ethylene oxide addition products thereof;
• addition products of 15 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;
• polyol esters and, in particular, polyglycerol esters such as, for example, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate isostearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes are also suitable;
• addition products of 2 to 15 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil; • partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated Cg/22 fatty acids, ricin- oleic acid and 12- hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, - dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (for example sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (for example methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (for example cellulose);
• mono-, di and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof;
• wool wax alcohols;
• polysiloxane/polyalkyl polyether copolymers and corresponding derivatives;
• mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and/or mixed esters of C6-22 fatty acids, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol,
• alkyl and/or alkenyloligoglycosides;
• polyalkylene glycols and
• glycerol carbonate.
[0052] The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or onto castor oil are known commercially available products. They are homologue mixtures of which the average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio between the quantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C12/18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are known as lipid layer enhancers for cosmetic formulations. The preferred emulsifiers are described in more detail as follows:
[0053] Partial glycerides. Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are stearic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid diglyceride, hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric acid diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride, mixed esters of citric acid and stearic or oleic acid with glycerol and technical mixtures thereof which may still contain small quantities of triglyceride from the production process. Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable.
[0054] Sorbitan esters. Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan ses- quiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquieru- cate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquiricino- leate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan di hydroxystea rate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof. Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.
[0055] Polyglycerol esters. Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl- 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan® Gl 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Poly- glyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Beilina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyolesters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylol propane or penta erythritol with lauric acid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide.
[0056] Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides. Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, monoglycosides, in which a cyclic sugar residue is gly- cosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol, as well as oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
[0057] Tetraalkyl ammonium salts. Cationically active surfactants comprise the hydrophobic high molecular group required for the surface activity in the cation by dissociation in aqueous solution. A group of important representatives of the cationic surfactants are the tetraalkyl ammonium salts of the general formula: (R1R2R3R4N+) X". Here R1 stands for Ci-Cs alk(en)yl, R2, R3 and R4, independently of each other, for alk(en)yl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms. X is a counter ion, preferably selected from the group of the halides, alkyl sulfates and alkyl carbonates. Cationic surfactants, in which the nitrogen group is substituted with two long acyl groups and two short alk(en)yl groups, are particularly preferred.
[0058] Esterquats. A further class of cationic surfactants particularly useful as co-surfactants for the present invention is represented by the so-called esterquats. Esterquats are generally understood to be quaternised fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. These are known compounds which can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. Reference is made in this connection to International patent application WO 91/01295 A1, according to which triethanolamine is partly esterified with fatty acids in the presence of hy- pophosphorous acid, air is passed through the reaction mixture and the whole is then quaternised with dimethyl sulphate or ethylene oxide. In addition, German patent DE 4308794 C1 describes a process for the production of solid esterquats in which the quaterni- sation of triethanolamine esters is carried out in the presence of suitable dispersants, preferably fatty alcohols.
[0059] Typical examples of esterquats suitable for use in accordance with the invention are products of which the acyl component derives from monocarboxylic acids corresponding to formula RCOOH in which RCO is an acyl group containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and the amine component is triethanolamine (TEA). Examples of such monocarboxylic acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid and technical mixtures thereof such as, for example, so- called head-fractionated fatty acid. Esterquats of which the acyl component derives from monocarboxylic acids containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms, are preferably used. Other esterquats are those of which the acyl component derives from dicarboxylic acids like malonic acid, succinic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, sorbic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebac- ic acid and/or dodecanedioic acid, but preferably adipic acid. Overall, esterquats of which the acyl component derives from mixtures of monocarboxylic acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and adipic acid are preferably used. The molar ratio of mono and dicarboxylic acids in the final esterquat may be in the range from 1 :99 to 99:1 and is preferably in the range from 50:50 to 90:10 and more particularly in the range from 70:30 to 80:20. Besides the quaternised fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, other suitable esterquats are quaternized ester salts of mono-/dicarboxylic acid mixtures with diethanolalkyamines or 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines. The esterquats may be obtained both from fatty acids and from the corresponding triglycerides in admixture with the corresponding dicarboxylic acids. One such process, which is intended to be representative of the relevant prior art, is proposed in European patent EP 0750606 B1. To produce the quaternised esters, the mixtures of mono- and dicarboxylic acids and the triethanolamine - based on the available carboxyl functions - may be used in a molar ratio of 1.1 :1 to 3:1. With the performance properties of the esterquats in mind, a ratio of 1.2:1 to 2.2:1 and preferably 1.5:1 to 1.9:1 has proved to be particularly advantageous. The preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9.
Superfatting agents and consistency factors
[0060] Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acid alkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers. [0061] The consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerol poly-12- hydroxystea rates is preferably used.
Thickening agents and rheology additives
[0062] Suitable thickeners are polymeric thickeners, such as Aerosil® types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tylo- ses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example Carbo- pols® [Goodrich] or Synthalens® [Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.
Film formers
[0063] Suitable film formers encompass the following species:
Polymers
[0064] Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose obtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400®, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat® L, BASF), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®, Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (Merquat® 550, Lubrizol), polyaminopolyamides and crosslinked water-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally in microcrystalline distribution, condensation products of dihaloalkyls, for example dibromobutane, with bis-dialkylamines, for example bis- dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum such as, for example, Jaguar®CBS, Jaguar®C- 17, Jaguar®C-16 of Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as, for example, Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 of Miranol and the various polyquaternium types (for example 6, 7, 32 or 37) which can be found in the market under the tradenames Rheocare® CC or Ultragel® 300.
[0065] Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl ace- tate/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamido- propyl trimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide/methyl methacry- late/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrroli- done/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally deri- vatized cellulose ethers and silicones.
Pearlizing waxes
[0066] Suitable pearlising waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially cocofatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty compounds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which contain in all at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearylether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols containing 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.
Silicones
[0067] Suitable silicones can be chosen from the group consisting of: Acefylline Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Acetylmethionyl Methylsilanol Elastinate Acrylates/Behenyl, Acry- late/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Behenyl Methacrylate/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Acry- lates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates/Dimethicone Methacrylate/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Dimethiconol Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acry- late/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Octylacrylamide/Diphenyl Amodimethi- cone Copolymer, Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Propyl Tri- methicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Stearyl Acrylate/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Tridecyl Acrylate/Triethoxysilylpropyl Methacrylate/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Trifluoropropylmethacrylate/Polytrimethyl Siloxymethacrylate Copolymer, Amino Bispropyl Dimethicone, Aminoethylaminopropyl Dimethicone, Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone, Aminopropyl Triethoxysilane, Ammoni- um Dimethicone PEG-7 Sulfate, Amodimethicone, Amodimethicone Hydroxystearate, Amodimethicone/Silsesquioxane Copolymer, Ascorbyl Carboxydecyl Trisiloxane, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Behenoxy Dimethicone, Behentrimonium Dimethicone PEG-8 Phthalate, Behenyl Dimethicone, Bisamino PEG/PPG-41/3 Aminoethyl PG-Propyl Dimethicone, Bis-Aminopropyl/Ethoxy Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Bis(Butylbenzoate) Diaminotriazine Aminopropyltrisiloxane, Bis-Butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3, Bis-
Butyloxyamodimethicone/PEG-60 Copolymer, Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) Hydroxybutamidoamodi- methicone, Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG- Amodimethicone, Bis-(C1 -8 Alkyl Lauroyl Lysine Decylcarboxamide) Dimethicone, Bis-Cetyl Cetyl Dimethicone, Bis-Cetyl/PEG-8 Cetyl PEG-8 Dimethicone, Bis-Diphenylethyl Disiloxane, Bis-Ethyl Ethyl Methicone, Bis- Gluconamidoethylaminopropyl Dimethicone, Bis-Hydrogen Dimethicone, Bis- Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone Bis-Hydroxylauryl, Dimethicone/IPDI Copolymer, Bis- Hydroxy/M ethoxy Amodimethicone, Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Behenate, Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethi- cone/SMDI Copolymer, Bis-lsobutyl PEG-14/Amodimethicone Copolymer, Bis-lsobutyl PEG- 15/Amodimethicone Copolymer, Bis-lsobutyl PEG/PPG-20/35/Amodimethicone Copolymer, Bis- Isobutyl PEG/PPG-10/7/Dimethicone Copolymer, Bis-lsobutyl PEG-24/PPG- 7/Dimethicone Copolymer, Bis-PEG-1 Dimethicone, Bis-PEG-4 Dimethicone, Bis-PEG-8 Dimethicone, Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone, Bis-PEG-20 Dimethicone, Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Beeswax, Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Candelillate, Bis-PEG-15 Dimethicone/IPDI Copolymer, Bis-PEG-15 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, Bis- PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, Bis-PEG/PPG-15/5 Dimethicone, Bis-PEG/PPG-18/6 Dimethicone, Bis-PEG/PPG- 20/20 Dimethicone, Bis-PEG/PPG- 16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone, Bis-PEG/PPG-20/5 PEG/PPG-20/5 Dimethicone, Bisphenylhexamethicone, Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone, Bispolyethylene Dimethicone, Bis- (Polyglyceryl-3 Oxyphenylpropyl) Dimethicone, Bis-(Polyglyceryl- 7 Oxyphenylpropyl) Dimethicone, Bis-PPG-15 Dimethicone/IPDI Copolymer, Bis(PPG-7 Unde- ceneth-21) Dimethicone, Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone, Bis-Trimethoxysilylethyl Tetramethyl- disiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Bis-Vinyldimethicone, Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Borage Seed Oil PEG-7 Dimethicone Esters, Butyl Acrylate/C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate/Mercaptopropyl Dimethicone Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate/Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butyl Dimethicone Acrylate/Cyclohexylmethacrylate/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Butyldimethicone Methacrylate/Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, t- Butyl Dimethyl Silyl Grape Seed Extract, Butyl Polydimethylsiloxyl Eth- ylene/Propylene/Vinylnorbornene Copolymer, C6-8 Alkyl C3-6 Alkyl Glucoside Dimethicone, C20-24 Alkyl Dimethicone, C24-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, C26-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone, C30-60 Alkyl Dimethicone, C32 Alkyl Dimethicone, C30-45 Alkyl Dimethi- cone/Polycyclohexene Oxide Crosspolymer, C26-28 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquiox- ane, C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane, C20-24 Alkyl Methicone, C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, C26-28 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, C20-28 Alkyl Perfluorodecylethoxy Dimethicone, C26-54 Alkyl Tetradecyl Dimethicone, Capryl Dimethicone, Caprylyl Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside, Caprylyl Methicone, Caprylyl Trimethicone, Carboxydecyl Trisiloxane, Castor Oil Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Esters Cerotyl Dimethicone, Ce- tearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Methicone, Cetrimonium Carboxydecyl PEG-8 Dimethicone, Cetrimonium Dimethicone PEG-7 Phthalate, Cetyl Behenyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone/Bis- Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl Hexacosyl Dimethicone, Cetyloxy Dimethicone, Cetyl PEG-8 Dimethicone, Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone, Cetyl PEG/PPG-7/3 Dimethicone, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Cetyl Triethylmonium Dimethicone PEG-8 Phthalate, Cetyl Triethylmonium Dimethicone PEG-8 Succinate, Copper Acetyl Tyrosinate Methylsilanol, Copper PCA Methylsilanol, C4-14 Perfluoroalkylethoxy Dimethicone, Cycloethox- ymethicone, Cycloheptasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclophenylmethicone, Cyclotetrasiloxane, mCyclovinylmethicone, Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol, DEA PG-Propyl PEG/PPG-18/21 Dimethicone, Diisostearoyl Trimethylolpropane Siloxy Silicate, Dilauroyl Trimethylolpropane Siloxy Silicate, Dilinoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, Dimethicone/Divinyldimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside, Dimethicone Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride, Dimethi- cone/Mercaptopropyl Methicone Copolymer, Dimethicone PEG-15 Acetate Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Avocadoate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Avocadoate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Beeswax, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Borageate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Cocoate, Dimethicone/PEG-10 Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/PEG-15 Crosspolymer, Dimethicone PEG-7 Isostearate, Dimethicone PEG- 8 Isostearate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Lactate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Lanolate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Laurate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Octyldodecyl Citrate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Olivate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Olivate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phthalate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Phthalate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Polyacrylate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG- 20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Succinate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Succinate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Sulfate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Undecylenate, Dimethicone PG-Diethylmonium Chloride, Dimethi- cone/Phenyl Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Propylethylenediamine Behenate, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, Dimethicone/Silsesquioxane Copolymer, Dimethicone Silylate, Dime- thicone?/inyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Dimethiconol Arginine, Dimethiconol Beeswax, Dimethiconol Behenate, Dimethiconol Borageate, Dimethiconol Candelillate, Dimethiconol Carnaubate, Dimethiconol Cysteine, Dimethiconol Dhupa Butterate, Dimethiconol Fluoroalcohol Dilinoleic Acid, Dimethiconol Hydroxystearate, Dimethiconol lllipe Butterate, Dimethiconol/IPDI Copolymer, Dimethiconol Isostearate, Dimethiconol Kokum Butterate, Dimethiconol Lactate, Dimethiconol Meadowfoamate, Dimethiconol Methionine, Dimethiconol/Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol Mohwa Butterate, Dimethiconol Panthenol, Dimethiconol Sal Butterate, Dimethiconol/Silica Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol/Silsesquioxane Copolymer, Dimethiconol Stearate, Dimethiconol/Stearyl, Methicone/Phenyl Trimethicone Copolymer, Dimethoxysilyl Ethylenediaminopropyl Dimethicone, Dimethylaminopropylamido PCA Dimethicone, Dimethyl Oxobenzo Dioxasilane, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Dioleyl Tocopheryl Methylsilanol, Diphenyl Amodimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer Diphenyl Dimethicone?/inyl Diphenyl Dimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Diphenylethyl Benzyloxy Dilsiloxane, Diphenylisopropyl Dimethicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl/Propyl Trime- thicone, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone Disiloxane, Disodium Amodimethicone Disuccinamide, Disodium PEG-12 Dimethicone Sulfosuccinate, Disodium PEG-8 Lauryl Dimethicone Sulfosuccinate, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Divinyldimethi- cone/Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Ethylhexyl Acry- late/VP/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Ethyl Methicone, Ethyl Trisiloxane, Fluoro C2-8 Alkyldimethicone, Gluconamidopropyl Aminopropyl Dimethicone, 4-(2-Beta- Glucopyranosiloxy) Propoxy-2-Hydroxybenzophenone, Glyceryl Undecyl Dimethicone, Glycidoxy Dimethicone, Hexadecyl Methicone, Hexyl Dimethicone, Hexyl Methicone, Hexyltrimethoxysilane, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Hydrogen Dimethicone/Octyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Collagen PG-Propyl Dimethiconol, Hydrolyzed Collagen PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Hydrolyzed Collagen PG-Propyl Silanetriol, Hydrolyzed Keratin PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Hydrolyzed Sesame Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Hydrolyzed Silk PG- Propyl Methylsilanediol, Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein/Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol, Hydrolyzed Wheat Pro- tein/Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol, Hydroxyethyl Acetomonium PG-Dimethicone, Hydroxypropyldimethicone, Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Behenate, Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Isostearate, Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Stearate, Isobutylmethacrylate/Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate/T rifluoroethylmethacrylate/Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isopentyl Trimethoxycinnamate Trisiloxane, lsopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethicone, lsopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethiconol, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate/Triethoxysilylethyl, Polydi- methylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Isostearyl Carboxydecyl PEG-8 Dimethicone, Lactoyl Methylsilanol Elastinate, Lauryl Dimethicone, Lauryl Dimethicone PEG-15 Crosspolymer, Lauryl Dimethicone PEG- 10 Phosphate, Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methicone, Lauryl PEG-8 Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG-10 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone, Lauryl Phenylisopropyl Methicone, Lauryl Phenylpropyl Methicone, Lauryl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer, Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Lauryl Trimethicone, Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate Dimethicone, Methacryloyl Propyltrimethoxysilane, Methicone, Methoxy Amodimethi- cone/Silsesquioxane Copolymer, Methoxycinnamidopropyl Polysilsesquioxane, Methoxycinnamoylpropyl Silsesquioxane Silicate, Methoxy PEG-13 Ethyl Polysilsesquioxane, Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Methoxy PEG/PPG-25/4 Dimethicone, Methoxy PEG-10 Propyltrimethoxysilane, Methyleugenyl PEG- 8 Dimethicone, Methylpolysiloxane Emulsion, Methylsilanol Acetylmethionate, Methylsilanol Acetyltyrosine, Methylsilanol Ascorbate, Methylsilanol Carboxymethyl Theophylline, Methylsilanol Carboxymethyl Theophylline Alginate, Methylsilanol Elastinate, Methylsilanol Glycyrrhizinate, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline Aspartate, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Methylsilanol PCA, Methylsilanol PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer, Methylsilanol Spiruli- nate, Methylsilanol Tri-PEG-8 Glyceryl Cocoate, Methyl Trimethicone, Methyltrimethoxysilane, Myristylamidopropyl Dimethylamine Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Myristyl Methicone, Myristyl Trisiloxane, Nylon-611/Dimethicone Copolymer, PCA Dimethicone, PEG-7 Amodime- thicone, PEG-8 Amodimethicone, PEG-8 Cetyl Dimethicone, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-6 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-8 Dimethicone Dimer Dilinoleate, PEG-8 Dimethicone/Dimer Dilinoleic Acid Copolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-8 Distearmonium Chloride PG-Dimethicone, PEG-10/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG- 15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-15/Lauryl Polydimethylsiloxy- ethyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-8 Methicone, PEG-6 Methicone Acetate, PEG-6 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG- 7 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-8 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG- 9 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-10 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-32 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-8 Methyl Ether Triethoxysilane, PEG-10 Nonafluorohexyl Dimethicone Copolymer, PEG-4 PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-8 PG-Coco- Glucoside Dimethicone, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/22 Butyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/22 Butyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/23 Butyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-24/18 Butyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-27/9 Butyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-6/4 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/14 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-8/26 Dimethicone,
PEG/PPG-10/2 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-12/16 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG- 12/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/5 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone,
PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-16/8 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone,
PEG/PPG-18/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone,
PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-23/6 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-27/27 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-30/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone/ Acrylates Copolymer, PEG/PPG-20/22 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-24/24 Methyl Ether Glycidoxy Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-10/3 Oleyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-5/3 Trisiloxane, PEG-4 Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Copolymer, PEG-8 Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Copolymer, PEG-10 Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Copolymer, PEG- 8 Trisiloxane, Perfluorocaprylyl riethoxysilylethyl Methicone, Perfluorononyl Dimethicone, Perfluorononyl Dimethicone/Methicone/Amodimethicone Crosspolymer, Perfluorononylethyl Carboxydecyl Behenyl Dimethicone, Perfluorononylethyl Carboxydecyl Hexacosyl Dimethi- cone, Perfluorononylethyl Carboxydecyl Lauryl/Behenyl Dimethicone, Perfluorononylethyl Carboxydecyl Lauryl Dimethicone, Perfluorononylethyl Carboxydecyl PEG-8 Dimethicone, Perfluorononylethyl Carboxydecyl PEG- 10 Dimethicone, Perfluorononylethyl Dimethi- cone/Methicone Copolymer, Perfluorononylethyl PEG-8 Dimethicone, Perfluorononylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone, Perfluorooctylethyl/Diphenyl Dimethicone Copolymer, Perfluorooctylethyl Triethoxysilane, Perfluorooctylethyl Trimethoxysilane, Perfluorooctylethyl Trisiloxane, Perfluorooctyl Triethoxysilane, PG-Amodimethicone, Phenethyl Dimethicone, Phenethyl Disiloxane, Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenylisopropyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Methicone, Phenyl Methiconol, Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, Phenylpropyl Ethyl Methicone, Phenyl Propyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Propyl Trimethicone/Diphenylmethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Platinum Divinyldisiloxane, Polyacrylate-6, Polydiethylsiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dime- thicone/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer, Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer, Polydimethylsiloxy PEG/PPG-24/19 Butyl Ether Silsesquioxane, Polydimethylsiloxy PPG- 13 Butyl Ether Silsesquioxane, Polyglyceryl-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl- 3/Lauryl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Poly(Glycol Adipate)/Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Poly- phenylsilsesquioxane, Polypropylsilsesquioxane, Polysilicone-1, Polysilicone-2, Polysilicone-3, Polysilicone-4, Polysilicone-5, Polysilicone-6, Polysilicone-7, Polysilicone-8, Polysilicone-9, Polysilicone-10, Polysilicone-11, Polysilicone-12, Polysilicone-13, Polysilicone-14, Polysilicone- 15, Polysilicone-16, Polysilicone-17, Polysilicone-18, Polysilicone-19, Polysilicone-20, Polysili- cone-21, Polysilicone-18 Cetyl Phosphate, Polysilicone-1 Crosspolymer, Polysilicone-18 Stearate, Polyurethane-10, Potassium Dimethicone PEG-7 Panthenyl Phosphate, Potassium Dimethicone PEG- 7 Phosphate, PPG-12 Butyl Ether Dimethicone, PPG-2 Dimethicone, PPG-12 Dimethicone, PPG-27 Dimethicone, PPG-4 Oleth-10 Dimethicone, Propoxytetra methyl Piperi- dinyl Dimethicone, Propyl Trimethicone, Quaternium-80, Retinoxytrimethylsilane, Silanediol Salicylate, Silanetriol, Silanetriol Arginate, Silanetriol Glutamate, Silanetriol Lysinate, Silanetriol Melaninate, Silanetriol Trehalose Ether, Silica, Silica Dimethicone Silylate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Silica Silylate, Silicon Carbide, Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6, Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-11, Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quaternium-15, SiliconeQuaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-16/Glycidoxy Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium- 18, Silicone Quaternium- 19, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21, Silicone Quaternium- 22, Silicone Qua- ternium-24, Silicone Quaternium-25, Siloxanetriol Alginate, Siloxanetriol Phytate, Simethicone, Sodium Carboxydecyl PEG-8 Dimethicone, Sodium Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetyl Methyl- taurate, Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol, Sodium Lactate Methylsilanol, Sodium Mannuronate Methylsilanol, Sodium PCA Methylsilanol, Sodium PG-Propyldimethicone Thiosulfate Copolymer, Sodium PG-Propyl Thiosulfate Dimethicone, Sodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica, Sorbityl Silanediol, Soy Triethoxysilylpropyldimonium Chloride, Stearalkonium Dimethicone PEG-8 Phthalate, Stearamidopropyl Dimethicone, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Panthenyl PEG-7 Dimethicone Phosphate Chloride, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl PEG-7 Dimethicone Phosphate Chloride, Stearoxy Dimethicone, Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Stearoxytrimethylsilane, Stearyl Aminopropyl Methicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, Stearyl/Lauryl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Stearyl Methicone, Stearyl Triethoxysilanek, Stearyl Trimethicone, Styrene/ Acrylates/Dimethicone Acrylate Crosspolymer, Styrene/ Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer, TEA-Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Tetrabutoxypropyl Trisiloxane, Tetramethyl Hexaphenyl Tetrasiloxane, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane, Tocopheryloxypropyl Trisiloxane, Trideceth-9 PG-Amodimethicone, Triethoxycapry- lylsilane, Triethoxysilylethyl Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer, Triethoxysilylethyl Polydime- thylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone, Triethoxysilylpropylcarbamoyl Ethoxypropyl Butyl Dimethicone, Trifluoromethyl C1 -4 Alkyl Dimethicone, Trifluoropropyl Cyclopentasiloxane, Trifluoropropyl Cyclotetrasiloxane, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone/PEG-10 Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone/Trifluoropropyl Divinyldimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethi- cone/Vinyl Trifluoropropyl, Dimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dime- thiconol, Trifluoropropyldimethyl/trimethylsiloxysilicate, Trifluoropropyl Methicone, Tri- methoxycaprylylsilane, Trimethoxysilyl Dimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, Tri- methylsiloxyamodimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, Trimethylsilyl Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol Crosspolymer, Trimethylsilyl Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol Crosspolymer, Trimethylsilyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol Crosspolymer, Trimethylsilyl Pullulan, Trimethylsilyl Trimethylsiloxy Glycolate, Trimethylsilyl Trimethylsiloxy Lactate, Trimethylsilyl Trimethylsiloxy Salicylate, Triphenyl Trimethicone, Trisiloxane, Tris-Tributoxysiloxymethylsilane, Undecylcrylene Dimethicone, Vinyl Dimethicone, Vinyl Dimethicone/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Vinyldimethyl/Trimethylsiloxysilicate Stearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, VP/Dimethiconylacrylate/Polycarbamyl/Polyglycol Ester, Zinc Carboxydecyl Trisiloxane and Zinc Dimethicone PEG-8 Succinate and mixtures thereof.
[0068] More preferably the silicones to be contained in the mixture according to the inventions are Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane and Cyclopentasiloxane. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can be found in Todd et al. in Cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).
Waxes and stabilizers
[0069] Besides natural oils used, waxes may also be present in the preparations, more especially natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes and microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.
[0070] Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminium and/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.
Primary sun protection filters
[0071] Primary sun protection filters in the context of the invention are, for example, organic substances (light filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and of releasing the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat.
[0072] The formulations according to the invention advantageously contain at least one UV- A filter and/or at least one UV-B filter and/or a broadband filter and/or at least one inorganic pigment. Formulations according to the invention preferably contain at least one UV-B filter or a broadband filter, more particularly preferably at least one UV-A filter and at least one UV-B filter.
[0073] The UV filters cited below which can be used within the context of the present invention are preferred but naturally are not limiting. UV filters which are preferably used are selected from the group consisting of one, two, three, four, five or more of the following species: [0074] Particularly preferred UV filters encompass:
[0075] In a preferred embodiment the sun protection filter forming component (ii) represents a blend of UV-A- and UV-B-filters selected from the group consisting of homosalate, octocrylene, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl salicylate and mixtures thereof. Particular preferred is a blend of all these filters which is commercially available in the market under the trademark NeoHeliopan® Flat (SYMRISE), which also subject to WO 2020 088778 A1.
[0076] Suitable pigments encompass oxides of titanium (TiOz), zinc (ZnO), iron (FezOs), zirco- nium (ZrOz), silicon (SiOz), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminium (AI2O3), cerium (e.g. CezOs) and/or mixtures thereof.
[0077] In a further preferred embodiment, a formulation according to the invention contains a total amount of sunscreen agents, i.e. in particular UV filters and/or inorganic pigments (UV filtering pigments) so that the formulation according to the invention has a light protection factor of greater than or equal to 5 and up to 50. Such formulations according to the invention are particularly suitable for protecting the skin and hair. Secondary sun protection filters
[0078] Besides the groups of primary sun protection factors mentioned above, secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type may also be used. Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rays penetrate into the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (for example alphacarotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivatives thereof (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxine, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, alpha-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (for example butionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butionine sulfones, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine) in very small compatible dosages, also (metal) chelators (for example alpha-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrine), alpha-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (for example linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiq- uinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof (for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, superoxide dismutase, titanium dioxide (for example dispersions in ethanol), zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnSC ), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these active substances suitable for the purposes of the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).
[0079] Advantageous inorganic secondary light protection pigments are finely dispersed metal oxides and metal salts which are also mentioned in WO 2005 123101 A1. The total quantity of inorganic pigments, in particular hydrophobic inorganic micro-pigments in the finished cosmetic preparation according to the present invention is advantageously from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. [0080] Also preferred are particulate UV filters or inorganic pigments, which can optionally be hydrophobed, can be used, such as the oxides of titanium (TiC ), zinc (ZnO), iron (FezCb), zirconium (ZrC ), silicon (SiOz), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminium (AI2O3), cerium (e.g. CezCb) and/or mixtures thereof.
Biogenic agents and antioxidants
[0081] Biogenic active substances include, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, p- glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as such as prunus extract, bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes.
[0082] Antioxidants interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides like D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. -carotene, lycopene) and their derivates, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydrolic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamin and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts Dilaurylthiodipropionate, ditearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximines, butionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximines) in very low tolerated dosages (e.g. pmol to mol/kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (e.g. hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytinic acid, lactoferrin), hydroxy acids (e.g. (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, gallic acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivates (vitamin A palmitate) as well as conifer aryl benzoate of benzoic resin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butyl hydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. e.g. ZnO, ZnSO4) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium-methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. styrene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable for the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these named active substances. Actives modulating hair pigmentation
[0083] Preferred active ingredients for hair lightening are selected from the group consisting of: kojic acid (5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4-pyranone), kojic acid derivatives, preferably kojic acid dipalmitate, arbutin, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, preferably magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, hydroquinone, hydroquinone derivatives, resorcinol, resorcinol derivatives, preferably 4-alkylresorcinols and 4-(1-phenylethyl)1,3-dihydroxybenzene (phenylethyl resorcinol), cyclohexylcarbamates (preferably one or more cyclohexyl carbamates disclosed in WO 2010/122178 and WO 2010/097480), sulfur-containing molecules, preferably glutathione or cysteine, alpha-hydroxy acids (preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), salts and esters thereof, N-acetyl tyrosine and derivatives, undecenoyl phenylalanine, gluconic acid, chro- mone derivatives, preferably aloesin, flavonoids, 1 -aminoethyl phosphinic acid, thiourea derivatives, ellagic acid, nicotinamide (niacinamide), zinc salts, preferably zinc chloride or zinc gluconate, thujaplicin and derivatives, triterpenes, preferably maslinic acid, sterols, preferably ergosterol, benzofuranones, preferably senkyunolide, vinyl guiacol, ethyl guiacol, dionic acids, preferably octodecene dionic acid and/or azelaic acid, inhibitors of nitrogen oxide synthesis, preferably L-nitroarginine and derivatives thereof, 2,7-dinitroindazole or thiocitrulline, metal chelators (preferably alpha-hydroxy fatty acids, phytic acid, humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof), retinoids, soy milk and extract, serine protease inhibitors or lipoic acid or other synthetic or natural active ingredients for skin and hair lightening, the latter preferably used in the form of an extract from plants, preferably bearberry extract, rice extract, papaya extract, turmeric extract, mulberry extract, bengkoang extract, nutgrass extract, liquorice root extract or constituents concentrated or isolated therefrom, preferably glabridin or licochalcone A, artocarpus extract, extract of rumex and ramulus species, extracts of pine species (pinus), extracts of vitis species or stilbene derivatives isolated or concentrated therefrom, saxifrage extract, scutelleria extract, grape extract and/or microalgae extract, in particular Tetraselmis suecica Extract.
[0084] Advantageous skin and hair tanning active ingredients in this respect are substrates or substrate analogues of tyrosinase such as L-tyrosine, N-acetyl tyrosine, L-DOPA or L- dihydroxyphenylalanine, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theophyl-line and derivatives thereof, proopiomelanocortin peptides such as ACTH, alpha-MSH, peptide analogues thereof and other substances which bind to the melanocortin receptor, peptides, pyrimidines, folic acid, copper salts such as copper gluconate, chloride or pyrrolidonate, 1,3,4-oxadiazole-2-thiols such as 5-pyrazin-2-yl-1,3,4-oxadiazole-2-thiol, curcumin, zinc diglycinate (Zn(Gly)2), manganese(ll) bicarbonate complexes ("pseudocat-alases") as described for example in EP 0 584 178, tetrasubstituted cyclohexene deriva-tives as described for example in WO 2005/032501 , isoprenoids as described in WO 2005/102252 and in WO 2006/010661 , melanin derivatives such as Melasyn-100 and MelanZe, diacyl glycerols, aliphatic or cyclic diols, psoralens, prostaglandins and ana-logues thereof, activators of adenylate cyclase and compounds which activate the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes such as serine proteases or agonists of the PAR-2 receptor, extracts of plants and plant parts of the chrysanthemum species, san-guisorba species, walnut extracts, urucum extracts, rhubarb extracts, microalgae extracts, in particular Isochrysis galbana, trehalose, erythru-lose and dihydroxyacetone. Flavonoids which bring about skin and hair tinting or brown-ing (e.g. quercetin, rhamnetin, kaempferol, fisetin, genistein, daidzein, chrysin and api-genin, epicatechin, diosmin and diosmetin, morin, quercitrin, naringenin, hesperidin, phloridzin and phloretin) can also be used.
[0085] The amount of the aforementioned examples of additional active ingredients for the modulation of skin and hair pigmentation (one or more compounds) in the products according to the invention is then preferably 0.00001 to 30 wt.%, preferably 0.0001 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.
Hair growth activators or inhibitors
[0086] Formulations and products according to the present invention may also comprise one or more hair growth activators, i.e. agents to stimulate hair growth. Hair growth activators are preferably selected from the group consisting of pyrimidine derivatives such as 2,4- diaminopyrimidine-3-oxide (Aminexil), 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine-3-oxide (Minoxidil) and derivatives thereof, 6-amino-1,2-dihydro-1 -hydroxy-2-imino-4-piperidinopyrimidine and its derivatives, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theophylline and derivatives thereof, quercetin and derivatives, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) and derivatives, potassium channel openers, antiandrogenic agents, synthetic or natural 5-reductase inhibitors, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopheryl nicotinate, benzyl nicotinate and C1 -C6 alkyl nicotinate, proteins such as for example the tripeptide Lys-Pro-Val, diphencypren, hormons, finasteride, dutasteride, flutamide, bicalutamide, pregnane derivatives, progesterone and its derivatives, cyproterone acetate, spironolactone and other diuretics, calcineurin inhibitors such as FK506 (Tacrolimus, Fujimycin) and its derivatives, Cyclosporin A and derivatives thereof, zinc and zinc salts, polyphenols, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, phytosterols such as for example beta-sitosterol, biotin, eugenol, (±)-beta-citronellol, panthenol, glycogen for example from mussels, extracts from microorganisms, algae, plants and plant parts of for example the genera dandelion (Leontodon or Taraxacum), Orthosiphon, Vitex, Coffea, Paullinia, Theobroma, Asiasarum, Cucurbita or Styphnolobium, Serenoa repens (saw palmetto), Sophora flavescens, Pygeum africanum, Panicum miliaceum, Cimicifuga racemosa, Glycine max, Eugenia caryophyllata, Cotinus coggygria, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Camellia sinensis, Ilex paraguariensis, Isochrysis galbana, licorice, grape, apple, barley or hops or/nd hydrolysates from rice or wheat.
[0087] Alternatively, formulations and products according to the present invention may comprise one or more hair growth inhibitors (as described above), i.e. agents to reduce or prevent hair growth. Hair growth inhibitors are preferably selected from the group consisting of activin, activin derivatives or activin agonists, ornithine decarboxylase inhibitors such as alpha-difluoromethylornithine or pentacyclic triterpenes like for example ursolic acid, betulin, betulinic acid, oleanolic acid and derivatives thereof, 5alpha-reductase inhibitors, androgen receptor antagonists, S-adenosylmethionine decarboxylase inhibitors, gamma-glutamyl transpeptidase inhibitors, transglutaminase inhibitors, soybean-derived serine protease inhibitors, extracts from microorganisms, algae, different microalgae or plants and plant parts of for example the families Leguminosae, Solanaceae, Graminae, Asclepiadaceae or Cucurbita- ceae, the genera Chondrus, Gloiopeltis, Ceramium, Durvillea, Glycine max, Sanguisorba officinalis, Calendula officinalis, Hamamelis virginiana, Arnica montana, Salix alba, Hypericum perforatum or Gymnema sylvestre.
Skin care agents
[0088] Typical examples for skin moisture retention regulators an skin repair agents encompass sodium lactate, urea and derivatives, glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2- hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol, collagen, elastin or hyaluronic acid, diacyl adipates, petrolatum, urocanic acid, lecithin, allantoin, panthenol, phytantriol, lycopene, (pseudo-)ceramides (preferably Ceramide 2, hydroxypropyl bispalmitamide ME A, cetyloxypropyl glyceryl methoxypropyl myristamide, N- (1 -hexadecanoyl)-4-hydroxy-L-proline (1 -hexadecyl) ester, hydroxyethyl palmityl oxyhydroxy propyl palmitamide), glycosphingolipids, cholesterol, phytosterols, chitosan, chondroitin sulfate, lanolin, lanolin esters, amino acids, vitamin E and derivatives (preferably tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate), alpha-hydroxy acids (preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid) and derivatives thereof, mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, preferably glucose, galactose, fructose, mannose, laevulose and lactose, polysugars, such as b- glucans, in particular 1,3-1,4-p-glucan from oats, alpha-hydroxy-fatty acids, triterpenic acids, such as betulic acid or ursolic acid, and algae extracts or single active compounds thereof, (vii) physiological cooling agents, preferably selected from the group consisting of menthone glycerol acetal, menthyl lactate preferably l-menthyl lactate, in particular l-menthyl l-lactate), menthyl ethyl oxamate, substituted menthyl-3- carboxylic acid amides (e.g. menthyl-3-carboxylic acid N- ethylamide, Na-(L- menthanecarbonyl)glycine ethyl ester, 2-isopropyl-N-2,3- trimethyl- butanamide, substituted cyclohexanecarboxylic acid amides, 3- menthoxypropane-1,2-diol, 2-hydroxyethyl menthyl carbonate, 2- hydroxypropyl menthyl carbonate, N-acetylglycine menthyl ester, isopulegol, menthyl hydroxycarboxylic acid esters (e.g. menthyl 3- hydroxy butyrate), monomenthyl succinate, monomenthyl glutarate, 2- mercaptocyclodecanone, menthyl 2-pyrrolidin-5-onecarboxylate, 2,3-dihydroxy-p-menthane, 3,3,5- trimethylcyclohexanone glycerol ketal, 3-menthyl 3,6-di- and -trioxaalkanoates, 3- menthyl methoxyacetate and icilin, and
Physiological cooling and warming agents
[0089] Physiological cooling agents are liquid or solid, particular crystalline substances. The sensation of cold is not triggered physically, but by binding of the cooling agent to a cold receptor that is physiologically activated by cool temperatures. This is the cation channel TRPM8 from the family of TRP channels. TRPM8 is localized at free nerve terminals of afferent A and C fibers and is of central importance for the sensation of cold. Physiological cooling agents such as menthol and menthol compounds are preferably selected from the group formed by the species depicted in the following table (including their optical isomers and racemates):
[0090] Physiological warming agents can be selected from the group consisting of capsaicin, dihydrocapsaicin, nordihydrocapsaicin, homocapsaicin, homodihydrocapsaicin nonivamid, vannilyl butyl ether, and chili extracts.
Anti-itching and anti-inflammatory agents
[0091] Suitable anti-inflammatory agents may be selected from the group formed by:
(i) steroidal anti-inflammatory substances of the corticosteroid type, in particular hydrocortisone, hydrocortisone derivatives such as hydrocortisone 17-butyrate, dexame- thasone, dexamethasone phosphate, methylprednisolone or cortisone,
(ii) non-steroidal anti-inflammatory substances, in particular oxicams such as piroxicam or tenoxicam, salicylates such as aspirin, disalcid, solprin or fendosal, acetic acid derivatives such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin or clindanac, fenamates such as mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic or niflumic, propionic acid derivatives such as ibuprofen, naproxen or benoxaprofen, pyrazoles such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenylbutazone, febrazone or azapropazone,
(iii) natural or naturally occuring anti-inflammatory substances or substances that alleviate reddening and/or itching, in particular extracts or fractions from camomile, Aloe vera, Commiphora species, Rubia species, willow, willow-herb, oats, calendula, arnica, St John's wort, honeysuckle, rosemary, Passiflora incarnata, witch hazel, ginger or Echinacea, or single active compounds thereof,
(iv) histamine receptor antagonists, serine protease inhibitors (e.g. of Soy extracts), TRPV1 antagonists (e.g. 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol), NK1 antagonists (e.g. Aprepitant, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid), cannabinoid receptor agonists (e.g. Palmitoyl Ethanolamine) and TRPV3 antagonists.
Anti-microbial agents
[0092] Suitable anti-microbial agents are, in principle, all substances effective against Grampositive bacteria, such as, for example, 4- hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N-(4- chlorophenyl)-N'-(3,4- dichlorophenyl)urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclo- san), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(6-bromo-4- chlorophenol), 3-methyl- 4-(1 -methylethyl)phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chloro-phenol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-1,2-propanediol, 3- iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, oil of cloves, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), 1,3-propanediol monocaprylate, 4-hydroxy acetophenone, salicylic acid N-alkylamides, such as, for example, n-octylsalicylamide or n- decylsalicylamide.
Enzyme inhibitors
[0093] Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity, thereby reducing the formation of odour. Other substances which are suitable esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campes- terol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and esters thereof, such as, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate, and zinc glycinate.
Odour absorbers and antiperspirant active agents
[0094] Suitable odour absorbers are substances which are able to absorb and largely retain odour-forming compounds. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components, thus also reducing their rate of diffusion. It is important that perfumes must remain unimpaired in this process. Odour absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They comprise, for example, as main constituent, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or specific, largely odour- neutral fragrances which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixatives", such as, for example, extracts of labdanum or styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. The odour masking agents are fragrances or perfume oils, which, in addition to their function as odour masking agents, give the deodorants their respective fragrance note. Perfume oils which may be mentioned are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches, and resins and balsams. Also suitable are animal products, such as, for example, civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol, and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexylpropionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, and the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citron- ellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the ionones and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linaool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, and the hydrocarbons include mainly the terpenes and balsams. Preference is, however, given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce a pleasing fragrance note. Essential oils of relatively low volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, camomile oil, oil of cloves, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden flower oil, juniperberry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Preference is given to using bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, oc-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, clary sage oil, p- damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix coeur, iso-E-super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilat, irotyl and floramat alone or in mixtures.
[0095] Suitable astringent antiperspirant active ingredients are primarily salts of aluminium, zirconium or of zinc. Such suitable antihydrotic active ingredients are, for example, aluminium chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlorohy- drate and complex compounds thereof, e.g. with 1,2- propylene glycol, aluminium hydroxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, e.g. with amino acids, such as glycine.
Film formers and anti-dandruff agents
[0096] Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quater- nized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar compounds.
[0097] Suitable antidandruff agents are Pirocton Olamin (1 -hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4- trimethylpentyl)-2-(1 H)-pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Keto- conazol® (4-acetyl-1 -{4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl) r-2-(1 H-imidazol-1 -ylmethyl)-1,3-dioxylan-c- 4-ylmethoxyphenyl}-piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate, sulfur tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid, monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon® UD (protein/undecylenic acid condensate), zinc py- rithione, aluminium pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione/dipyrithione magnesium sulfate.
Carriers and hydrotropes
[0098] Preferred cosmetics carrier materials are solid or liquid at 25°C and 1013 mbar (including highly viscous substances) as for example glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, ethanol, water and mixtures of two or more of said liquid carrier materials with water. Optionally, these preparations according to the invention may be produced using preservatives or solubilizers. Other preferred liquid carrier substances, which may be a component of a preparation according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of oils such as vegetable oil, neutral oil and mineral oil.
[0099] Preferred solid carrier materials, which may be a component of a preparation according to the invention are hydrocolloids, such as starches, degraded starches, chemically or physically modified starches, dextrins, (powdery) maltodextrins (preferably with a dextrose equivalent value of 5 to 25, preferably of 10 - 20), lactose, silicon dioxide, glucose, modified celluloses, gum arabic, ghatti gum, traganth, karaya, carrageenan, pullulan, curdlan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar flour, carob bean flour, alginates, agar, pectin and inulin and mixtures of two or more of these solids, in particular maltodextrins (preferably with a dextrose equivalent value of 15 - 20), lactose, silicon dioxide and/or glucose.
[00100] In addition, hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols, may be used to improve flow behaviour. Suitable polyols preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may contain other functional groups, more especially amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
• glycerol;
• alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 Dalton;
• technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as for example technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight; • methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane, trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• lower alkyl glucosides, particularly those containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl glucoside;
• sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example sorbitol or mannitol,
• sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or sucrose;
• amino sugars, for example glucamine;
• dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or 2-aminopropane-1,3-diol.
Preservatives and/or product protection agents
[00101] Suitable preservatives are listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikver- ordnung ("Cosmetics Directive") and chosen from the group consisting of benzoic acid and para-hydroxybenzoic acid, their esters and salts, benzyl benzoate, propionic acid and its salts, salicylic acid and its salts, 2,4-hexadienoic acid (sorbic acid) and its salts, levulinic acid and its salts, anisic acid and its salts, perillic acid and its salts, cinnamic acid and its salts, formaldehyde and paraformaldehyde, 4-hydroxy benzaldehyde, ortho-, meta-, and para-anisic aldehyde, cinnamic aldehyde, cinnamic alcohol, 2-hydroxybiphenyl ether and its salts, 2-zinc- sulfidopyridine N-oxide, inorganic sulfites and bisulfites, sodium iodate, chlorobutanolum, 4- ethylmercury-(ll)5-amino-1,3-bis(2-hydroxybenzoic acid), its salts and esters, dehydracetic acid, formic acid, 1,6-bis(4-amidino-2-bromophenoxy)-n-hexane and its salts, the sodium salt of ethylmercury-(ll)-thiosalicylic acid, phenylmercury and its salts, 10-undecylenic acid and its salts, 5-amino-1,3-bis(2-ethylhexyl)-5-methyl-hexahydropyrimidine, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3- dioxane, 2-bromo-2-nitro-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dichlorobenzyl alcohol, N-(4-chlorophenyl)- N'-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)-urea, 4-chloro-m-cresol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether, 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 1,1'-methylene-bis(3-(1 -hydroxymethyl-2, 4-dioximidazolidin-5- yl)urea), poly-(hexamethylenediguanide) hydrochloride, (Benzyloxymethoxy)-methanol hexamethylenetetramine, 1 -(3-chloroallyl)-3,5,7-triaza-1 -azonia-adamantane chloride, 1 -(4- chlorophenoxy)-1 -(1 H-imidazol-1 -yl)-3,3-dimethyl-2-butanone, 1,3-bis-(hydroxymethyl)-5,5- dimethyl-2,4-imidazolidinedione, 1,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutane, 2,2'-methylene-bis(6- bromo-4-chlorophenol), bromochlorophene, mixture of 5-chloro-2-methyl-3(2H)- isothiazolinone, 2-methyl-3(2H)-isothiazolinone and with magnesium chloride and magnesium nitrate, 2-Octyl-2H-isothiazol-3-one, 1,2-benzisothiazol-3(2/-/)-one, 2-benzyl-4- chlorophenol, 3-(4-Chlorphenoxy)-1,2-propanediol (Chlorphenesin), 2-chloroacetamide, chlorhexidine, chlorhexidine acetate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, N-alkyl(Ci2-C22)trimethyl-ammonium bromide and chloride, 4,4-dimethyl-1,3-oxazolidine, N- hydroxymethyl-N-(1,3-di(hydroxymethyl)-2,5-dioxoimidazolidin-4-yl)-N'-hydroxy-methylurea, 1,6-bis(4-amidino-phenoxy)-n-hexane and its salts, glutaraldehyde, 5-ethyl-1 -aza-3,7- dioxabicyclo(3.3.0)octane, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-1,2-propanediol, hyamines, alkyl-(Cs-Cis)- dimethyl-benzyl-ammonium chloride, alkyl-fCs-Cisj-dimethyl-benzylammonium bromide, alkyl-(C8-Ci8)-dimethyl-benzyl-ammonium saccharinate, benzyl hemiformal, 3-iodo-2- propynyl butylcarbamate, sodium hydroxymethyl-aminoacetate or sodium hydroxymethylaminoacetate, imidazolidinylurea, diazolidinylurea, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, DMDM hydantoin, Tropolone, (Ethylendioxy)dimethanol, 2-Brom-2-(brommethyl)pentandinitril, N-(3- Aminopropyl)-N-dodecylpropan-1,3-diamin, a,a',a"-trimethyl-1,3,5-triazine-1,3,5(2H,4H,6H)- triethanol, pyridine-2-thiol-1 -oxide, sodium salt, Tetrahydro-1, 3,4,6- tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)imidazo[4,5-d]imidazol-2,5(1 H,3H)-dion, 1,3-bis(hydroxymethyl) -1 - (1,3,4-tris(hydroxy-methyl)-2,5-dioxoimidazolidin-4-yl)urea (Diazolidinyl Urea), 1,3- Bis(hydroxy-methyl)-5,5-dimethylimidazolidine-2, 4-dione, 3-Acetyl-2-hydroxy-6-methyl-4/7- pyran-4-one, cetyl pyridium chloride, caprylhydroxamic acid, sorbohydroxamic acid and their mixtures; 1,3-propanediol, methyl propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2- octanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,8-octanediol, 1,2-decanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, hexoxy-propan-1, 2-diol, heptoxy- propan-1, 2-diol, octoxy-propan-1, 2- diol, 3-phenoxy-propan-1, 2-diol, 3-benzyloxy-propan-1, 2-diol, 3-phenylethyloxy-propan-1,2- diol, 3-phenylpropyloxy-propan-1, 2-diol, 3-methylbenzyloxy-propan-1, 2-diol, sorbitan caprylate, triclosan, climbazole, Octopirox (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2(1 H)- pyridone, 2-aminoethanol), chitosan, farnesol, 2-butyloctanoic acid, 2-Benzylheptan-1-ol, glycerol monolaurate, bis(2-pyridylthio)zinc 1,1 ‘-dioxide, N,N '-(decane-1 , 10-diyldipyridin- 1 - yl-4-ylidene)-dioctan-1 -amine dihydrochloride (octenidine dihydrochloride), thymol, eugenol, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenyethyl alcohol, 3-phenyl propanol, 2-phenoxyethanol, 1-phenoxy- propan-2-ol, 3-phenoxypropanol, benzyloxymethanol, 4-hydroxyacetophenone and mixtures thereof.
Perfume oils
[00102] Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes. Natural perfumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, for example civet and beaver, may also be used.
Fragrances
Suitable fragrances encompass:
[00103] Aliphatic esters such as 1-phenyl-2-methyl-2-propyl acetate, 2-methylbutyl butyrate, aldron (4-[(3,3-dimethylbicyclo[2.2. 1]hept-2-yl)methyl]-2-methylcyclohexanone), allyl 2- cyclohexyloxyglycolate, allyl 2-pentyloxyglycolate, allyl 3-cyclohexylpropionate, allyl capronate, amarocite (1,1 -dimethoxy-2,2,5-trimethyl-4-hexene), ambral (dodecahydro- 3,8,8, 11a-tetramethyl-5H-3. 5a-epoxynaphth[2. 1 -c]oxepin), ambretolide (9-hexadecene-16- olide), ambrinol S (1,2,3,4,4a,5,6,7-octahydro-2,6,6-trimethyl-2-napthalinol), ambrinolepoxide, Ambrocenides (4aR,5R,7aS,9R)-octahydro-2,2,5,8,8,9a-hexamethyl-4H-4a,9-methanoazuleno- (5,6-d)-1,3-dioxole), Ambroxide (3a, 6, 6, 9a-tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1 -b]-furan), amyl formate, aureliones (7-cyclohexadecen-1 -one and 8-cyclohexadecen-1 -one), boronal [2- methyl-4-(2, 6,6-trimethyl-1 -cyclohexen-1 -yl)-butenal], brahmanol [2-methyl-4-(2,2,3- trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl)-butanol], buccoxime (1,5-dimethylbicyclo[3. 2. 1]octan-8- onoxime), butyl acetate, cantryl (2, 2, 3-trimethyl-3-cyclopentenyl-1 -acetonitrile), Cassix 150 (4-methoxy-2-methyl-2-butanethiol), chrysanthemum [1 -(2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1 -y l)-2, 2-dimethyl-1 -propanone], cis-3-hexenyl acetate, citronellyl butyrate, citronellyl tetlinate (3,7- dimethyl-6-octenyl-2-methyl crotonate), citronitrile (3-methyl-5-phenyl-2-pentenenitrile), Citrowanil B (alpha-ethenylalpha-methyl-benzeneproprannitrile), Claritone (2,4,7-tetramethyl- 6-octen-3-one), Corps Racine VS [2-(3-phenylpropyl)pyridine], Coumarone (1-(2- benzofuranyl)-ethanone), Cyclogalbanate (allylcyclohexyloxyacetate), Cyclohexylmagnol (al- pha-methylcyclohexanepropanol), Datilate (1 -cyclohexylethylcrotonate), Ethyl 2- methylbutyrate, Ethyl isobutyrate, Ethyl isovalerate, Ethyl tricyclo[5. 2.1. 02,6]decan-2- ylcarboxylate, farenal (2,6,10-trimethyl-9-undecenal), filbertone (5-methyl-2-hepten-4-one), fleursandol (4-(3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro-4,7-methano-1 H-inden-6-yl)-3-methyl-3-buten-2-ol), florazone (4-ethyl-alpha, alpha-dimethyl benzenepropanal), floropal (2,4, 6-trimethyl-4- phenyl-1,3-dioxane), fragolane [(2,4-dimethyl-[1,3]dioxolan-2-yl)ethyl acetate)], frutinate (but-2-enoic acid-1, 3-dimethylbutyl ester), gamma-decalactone, geranyl acetate, geranyl butyrate, geranyl tetlinate (trans-3,7-dimethyl-2,6-octadienyl-2-methyl crotonate), Globanone [(11/12)-pentadecen-15-olide], globanone (8-cyclohexadecen-1 -one), hexyl butyrate, hy- drocitronitrile (beta-methyl-benzene-pentannitrile), Indianol (4-[3a,4,5,6,7,7a-Hexahydro-4,7- methano-1 H-inden-5(6)-yl]-3-methyl-3-buten-2-ol), Indoflor (4,4a,5,9b-Tetrahydoindeno[1,2- d]-m-dioxin), Irisnitrile (2-nonenylnitrile), isoamyl acetate, isoamyl isovalerianate, isodamascon [1 -(2,4,4-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1 -yl)-2-buten-1-one], Isomuscon (cyclohexadec- anone), Jacinthaflor (2-methyl-4-phenyl-1,3-dioxolane), Ketamber (dodecahydro-3,8,8,11a- tetramethyl-5H-3,5a-epoxynaphth[2. 1 -c]oxepin), lactojasmon (4-hexyl-4-methyl- butyrolactone), leguminal (propanal-methyl-cis-3-hexenyl-acetal), macrolide (oxacyclohexa- decan-2-one), Madranol (mixture of various hexahydro methylionones), Magnolan (2,4- dimethyl-5,6-indeno-1,3-dioxane), Majantol [2,2-dimethyl-3-(3-methylphenyl)-propanol], Mandaril (3, 12-tridecadiennitrile), Menthyl acetate, methyl butyrate, methyl dihydro- jasmonate, methyl isobutyrate, mintonate (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl acetate), mugetanol [1 - (4-isopropylcyclohexyl)-ethanol], Nerolione [1 -(3-methyl-2-benzofuranyl)-ethanone], Octyl acetate, Ozonil (2-tridecenenitrile), Palisandal (1,1 -dimethoxycyclododecane), Palisandin (cyclododecyl methyl ether), Parmanyl [3-(cis-3-hexenyloxy)-propannitrile], passifloran (3- acetylthiohexyl acetate), peacholide (cis- and trans-3-methyl-gamma-decalactone), Prenyl salicylate, Profarnesal (2,6,10-trimethyl-5,9-undecadienal), Projasmon P (2- heptylcyclopentanone), Pyroprunate (but-2-enoic acid bicyclopenten-2-yl ester), Rholiate (carbonic acid ethyl 2,3,6-trimethylcyclohexyl ester), Rosaphene (2-methyl-5-phenylpentan-1- ol), Rose oxide, Sandel 80 (trans-3-isocamphylcyclohexanol), Sandranol (2-ethyl-4-(2,2,3- trimethyl-3-cyclpenten-1-yl)-2-buten-1-ol), Symrose (4-isoamylcyclohexanol), Symroxane (4- (3-methylbutyl)-cyclohexanol (Z)), Tabanone [4-(2-butenylidene)-3,4,5-trimethyl-2- cyclohexen-1-one], Terpineol-4, Timberol (2,2,6-trimethyl-alpha-propyl-cyclohexane- propanol), Tolylacetataldehyde D para (4-methyl-benzeneacetaldehyde), Tricyclode- cenylpropionate, Tropicol (2-mercapto-2-methyl-pentan-1-ol), Vertosine [2-(2,4-(or 3, 5)- dimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1-yl)-methyleneaminobenzoic acid methyl ester], Vertral (octahydro- 4,7-methano-1 H-indencarbaldehyde), Vetikol acetate (1,3-dimethyl-3-phenylbutyl acetate), Vetival (4-cyclohexyl-4-methylpentan-2-one), Ysamber K (spiro hexahydro-1 ',1 ,,5,,5'- tetramethyl-[1,3-dioxolane-2,8'-(5,H)-[2H-2,4a]-methanonaphthalene].
[00104] Aliphatic aldehydes and their acetals such as B. Hexanal; heptanal; octanal; nonanal; decanal; undecanal; dodecanal; tridecanal; 2-methyloctanal; 2-methylnonanal; (E)-2- hexenal; (Z)-4-heptenal; 2;6-dimethyl-5-heptenal; 10-undecenal; (E)-4-decenal; 2-dodecenal; 2,6,10-trimethyl-9-undecenal; 2,6,10-trimethyl-5,9-undecadienal; heptanaldiethyl acetal; 1,1- dimethoxy-2,2,5-trimethyl-4-hexene; citronellyloxyacetaldehyde; 1 -(1 -methoxy-propoxy)- (E/Z)-3-hexene;
[00105] Aliphatic ketones and their oximes such as B. 2-heptanone; 2-octanone; 3- octanone; 2-nonanone; 5-methyl-3-heptanone; 5-methyl-3-heptanone oxime; 2, 4,4,7- tetramethyl-6-octen-3-one; 6-methyl-5-hepten-2-one;
[00106] Aliphatic sulfur-containing compounds such as 3-methylthiohexanol; 3- methylthiohexyl acetate; 3-mercaptohexanol; 3-mercaptohexyl acetate; 3-mercaptohexyl butyrate; 3-acetylthiohexyl acetate; 1-menthen-8-thiol;
[00107] Aliphatic nitriles such as e.g., 2-nonenoic acid nitrile; 2-undecenoic acid nitrile; 2- tridecenoic acid nitrile; 3,12-tridecadienoic acid nitrile; 3,7-dimethyl-2,6-octadienoic acid nitrile; 3,7- Dimethyl-6-octenoic acid nitrile;
[00108] Araliphatic alcohols, such as B. Benzyl alcohol; 1 -phenylethyl alcohol; 2-phenylethyl alcohol; 3-phenylpropanol; 2-phenylpropanol; 2-phenoxyethanol; 2,2-dimethyl-3- phenylpropanol; 2,2-dimethyl-3-(3-methylphenyl)propanol; 1,1-dimethyl-2-phenylethyl alcohol; 1,1-dimethyl-3-phenylpropanol; 1-ethyl-1-methyl-3-phenylpropanol; 2-methyl-5- phenylpentanol; 3-methyl-5-phenylpentanol; 3-phenyl-2-propen-1-ol; 4-methoxybenzyl alcohol; 1 -(4-isopropylphenyl)ethanol
[00109] Araliphatic ethers, such as for example, 2-phenylethyl methyl ether; 2-phenylethyl isoamyl ether; 2-phenylethyl 1 -ethoxyethyl ether; Phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal; phenylacetaldehyde diethyl acetal; hydratropaaldehyde dimethyl acetal; phenylacetaldehyde glycerol acetal; 2,4,6-trimethyl-4-phenyl-1,3-dioxane; 4,4a,5,9b-tetrahydroindeno[1,2-d]-m- dioxin; 4,4a,5,9b-tetrahydro-2,4-dimethylindeno[1,2-d]-m-dioxin; [00110] Aromatic and araliphatic aldehydes, such as e.g., benzaldehyde; phenylacetaldehyde; 3-phenylpropanal; hydratropaaldehyde; 4-methylbenzaldehyde; 4-methylphenyl- acetaldehyde; 3-(4-ethylphenyl)-2,2-dimethylpropanal; 2-methyl-3-(4-isopropylphenyl)- propanal; 2-methyl-3-(4-tert.- butylphenyl)propanal; 2-methyl-3-(4-isobutylphenyl)propanal; 3-(4-tert.- butylphenyl)propanal; cinnamaldehyde; alpha-butylcinnamaldehyde; alpha- amylcinnamaldehyde; alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde; 3-methyl-5-phenylpentanal; 4- methoxybenzaldehyde; 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzaldehyde; 4-hydroxy-3-ethoxybenzal- dehyde; 3,4-methylenedioxybenzaldehyde; 3,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde; 2-methyl-3-(4- methoxyphenyl)propanal; 2-methyl-3-(4-methylenedioxyphenyl)propanal;
[00111] Aromatic and araliphatic ketones, such as e.g. acetophenone; 4-methylaceto- phenone; 4-methoxyacetophenone; 4-tert.- butyl-2,6-dimethylacetophenone; 4-phenyl-2- butanone; 4-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-butanone; 1 -(2-naphthalenyl)ethanone; 2-benzo- furanylethanone; (3-methyl-2-benzofuranyl)ethanone; benzophenone; 1,1,2,3,6-hexamethyl- 5-indanyl methyl ketone; 6-tert. butyl-1,1 -dimethyl-4-indanyl methyl ketone; 1 -[2,3-dihydro-
1.1.2.6-tetramethyl-3-(1 -methylethyl)-1 H-5-indenyl] ethanone; S'^'J'^'-tetrahydro-
3,,5',5,,6,,8,,8,-hexamethyl-2-acetonaphthone;
[00112] Aromatic and araliphatic carboxylic acids and their esters, such as Benzoic acid; phenylacetic acid; methyl benzoate; ethyl benzoate; hexyl benzoate; benzyl benzoate; methyl phenyl acetate; ethyl phenyl acetate; geranyl phenyl acetate; phenyl ethyl phenyl acetate; methyl cinnamate; ethyl cinnamate; benzyl cinnamate; phenyl ethyl cinnamate; cinnamyl cinnamate; allyl phenoxy acetate; methyl salicylate; isoamyl salicylate; hexyl salicylate; cyclohexyl salicylate; cis-3-hexenyl salicylate; benzyl salicylate; phenyl ethyl salicylate; methyl 2,4- dihydroxy-3,6-dimethylbenzoate; ethyl 3-phenyl glycidate; ethyl 3-methyl-3-phenyl glycidate;
[00113] Acyclic terpene alcohols such as B. Citronellol; geraniol; nerol; linalool; lavadulol; nerolidol; farnesol; tetrahydrolinalool; tetrahydrogeraniol; 2,6-dimethyl-7-octen-2-ol; 2,6- Dimethyloctan-2-ol; 2-Methyl-6-methylen-7-octen-2-ol; 2,6-Dimethyl-5,7-octadien-2-ol; 2,6- Dimethyl-3,5-octadien-2-ol; 3,7-Dimethyl-4,6-octadien-3-ol; 3,7-dimethyl-1,5,7-octatrien-3-ol
2.6-dimethyl-2,5,7-octatrien-1 -ol; and their formates, acetates, propionates, isobutyrates, butyrates, isovalerianates, pentanoates, hexanoates, crotonates, tiglinates and 3-methyl-2- butenoates;
[00114] Acyclic terpene aldehydes and ketones, such as B. Geranial; Neral; Citronellal; 7- hydroxy-3,7-dimethyloctanal; 7-methoxy-3,7-dimethyloctanal; 2,6,10-trimethyl-9-undecenal; Geranylacetone; and the dimethyl and diethylacetals of Geranial, Neral, 7- hydroxy- 3,7- dimethyloctanal; the cyclic terpene alcohols such as Menthol; isopulegol; alpha-terpineol; terpinenol-4; menthan-8-ol; menthan-1 -ol; menthan-7-ol; borneol; isoborneol; linalool oxide; nopol; cedrol; ambrinol; vetiverol; guaiacol; and their formates, acetates, propionates, isobutyrates, butyrates, isovalerianates, pentanoates, hexanoates, crotonates, tiglinates and 3- methyl-2-butenoates; [00115] Cyclic terpene aldehydes and ketones, such asmenthone; isomenthone; 8- mercaptomenthan-3-one; carvone; camphor; fenchone; alpha-ionone; beta-ionone; alpha-n- methylionone; beta-n-methylionone; alpha-isomethylionone; beta-isomethylionone; alphairone; alpha-clamascon; beta-clamascon; beta-damascenone; delta-damascon; gammadamascon; 1 -(2,4,4-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1 -yl)-2-buten-1 -one; 1,3,4,6,7,8a-hexahydro- 1,1,5,5-tetramethyl-2H-2,4a-methanonaphthalen-8(5H)-one; 2-methyl-4-(2,6,6-trimethyl-1- cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-butenal; nootkatone; dihydronootkatone; 4,6,8-megastigmatrien-3-one; alpha-sinensal; beta-sinensal; acetylated cedarwood oil (methylcedrylketone);
[00116] Cyclic alcohols, such as e.g., 4-tert. butylcyclohexanol; 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexanol;
3-isocamphylcyclohexanol; 2,6,9-trimethyl-Z2,Z5,E9-cyclododecatrien-1 -ol; 2-isobutyl-4- methyltetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-ol;
[00117] Cycloaliphatic alcohols, such as alpha,3,3-trimethylcyclohexylmethanol; 1-(4- isopropylcyclohexyl)ethanol; 2-methyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopent-1 -yl)butanol; 2-Methyl-
4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopent-1 -yl)-2-buten-1 -ol; 2-Ethyl-4-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopent-1 - yl)-2-buten-1-ol; 3-Methyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopent-1-yl)-pentan-2-ol; 3-methyl-5- (2,2,3-trimethyl-3-cyclopent-1-yl)-4-pentene-2-ol; 3,3-dimethyl-5-(2,2,3-trimethyl-3- cyclopent-1-yl)-4-pentene-2-ol; 1-(2,2,6-trimethylcyclohexyl)pentan-3-ol; 1-(2,2,6-trimethyl- cyclohexyl)hexan-3-ol;
[00118] Cyclic and cycloaliphatic ethers, such as cineol; cedryl methyl ether; cyclododecyl methyl ether; 1,1 -dimethoxycyclododecane; (ethoxymethoxy)cyclododecane; alpha-cedrene epoxide; 3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyldodecahydronaphtho[2,1 -b]furan; 3a-ethyl-6,6,9a-trimethyldo- decahydronaphtho[2,1-b]furan; 1,5,9-trimethyl-13-oxabicyclo[10. 1.0]trideca-4,8-diene; rose oxide; 2-(2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1-yl)-5-methyl-5-(1-methylpropyl)-1,3-dioxane;
[00119] Cyclic and macrocyclic ketones, such as 4-tert-butylcyclohexanone; 4-tert - butylcyclohexanone. butylcyclohexanone; 2,2,5-trimethyl-5-pentylcyclopentanone; 2-heptyl- cyclopentanone; 2-pentylcyclopentanone; 2-hydroxy-3-methyl-2-cyclopenten-1-one; 3- methyl-cis-2-penten-1 -yl-2-cyclopenten-1 -one; 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopenten-1 -one; 3- methyl-4-cyclopentadecenone; 3-methyl-5-cyclopentadecenone; 3-methylcyclopenta- decanone; 4-(1-ethoxyvinyl)-3,3,5,5-tetramethylcyclohexanone; 4-tert. - pentylcyclohexanone;
5-cyclohexadecen-1-one; 6,7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone; 8-cyclohexa- decen-1-one; 9-cycloheptadecen-1-one; cyclopentadecanone; cyclohexadecanone;
[00120] Cycloaliphatic aldehydes, such as 2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde; 2- methyl-4-(2,2,6-trimethyl-cyclohexen-1-yl)-2-butenal; 4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclo- hexenecarbaldehyde; 4-(4-methyl-3-penten-1-yl)-3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde;
[00121] Cycloaliphatic ketones, such as B. 1-(3,3-Dimethylcyclohexyl)-4-penten-1-on; 2,2- Dimethyl-1 -(2,4-dimethyl-3-cyclohexen-1 -yl)-1 -propanon; 1 -(5,5-Dimethyl-1 -cyclohexen-1 - yl)-4-penten-1-on; 2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-2-naphthalenyl methyl ketone; methyl 2,6,10-trimethyl 2,5,9-cyclododecatrienyl ketone; tert. - butyl-(2,4-dimethyl-3- cyclohexen-1-yl) ketone; [00122] Esters of aliphatic carboxylic acids, such as (E)- and (Z)-3-hexenyl formate; ethyl acetoacetate; isoamyl acetate; hexyl acetate; 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl acetate; 3-methyl-2-butenyl acetate; (E)-2-hexenyl acetate; (E)- and (Z)-3-hexenyl acetate; octyl acetate; 3-octyl acetate; 1 - octen-3-yl acetate; ethyl butyrate; butyl butyrate; isoamyl butyrate; hexyl butyrate; (E)- and (Z)-3-hexenyl isobutyrate; Hexyl crotonate; ethyl isovalerate; ethyl 2-methyl pentanoate; ethyl hexanoate; allyl hexanoate; ethyl heptanoate; allyl heptanoate; ethyl octanoate; ethyl (E,Z)- 2,4-decadienoate; methyl 2-octinate; methyl 2-noninate; allyl 2-isoamyloxy acetate; methyl 3,7-dimethyl-2,6-octadienoate; 4-methyl-2-pentyl crotonate;
[00123] Esters of cyclic alcohols, such as 2-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate; 4-tert-butylcyclo- hexyl acetate; 2-tert-pentylcyclohexyl acetate; 4-tert-pentylcyclohexyl acetate; 3,3,5- trimethylcyclohexyl acetate; decahydro-2-naphthyl acetate; 2-cyclopentyl cyclopentyl crotonate; 3-pentyl tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-yl acetate; decahydro-2, 5, 5, 8a-tetramethyl-2-naphthyl acetate; 4,7-methano-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro-5, resp. 6-indenyl acetate; 4,7-methano- 3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro-5, resp. 6-indenyl propionate; 4,7-methano-3a,4,5,6,7,7a-hexahydro- 5, resp. 6-indenyl isobutyrate; 4,7-methanooctahydro-5, or 6-indenyl acetate;
[00124] Esters of cycloaliphatic alcohols, such as 1 -cyclohexylethyl crotonate;
[00125] Esters of cycloaliphatic carboxylic acids, such as Allyl 3-cyclohexyl propionate; allyl cyclohexyloxy acetate; cis- and trans-methyl dihydrojasmonate; cis- and trans-methyl jasmonate; methyl 2-hexyl-3-oxocyclopentane carboxylate; ethyl 2-ethyl-6,6-dimethyl-2- cyclohexenecarboxylate; ethyl 2,3,6,6-tetramethyl-2-cyclohexenecarboxylate; ethyl 2-methyl- 1,3-dioxolane-2-acetate;
[00126] Ester of araliphatic alcohols and aliphatic carboxylic acids, such as benzyl acetate; benzyl propionate; benzyl isobutyrate; benzyl isovalerate; 2-phenylethyl acetate; 2- phenylethyl propionate; 2-phenylethyl isobutyrate; 2-phenylethyl isovalerate; 1 -phenylethyl acetate; alpha-trichloromethyl benzyl acetate; alpha, alpha-dimethylphenyl ethyl acetate; alpha, alpha-dimethylphenyl ethyl butyrate; cinnamyl acetate; 2-phenoxyethyl isobutyrate; 4- methoxybenzyl acetate;
[00127] Heterocyclic compounds, such as B. 2,5-dimethyl-4-hydroxy-2H-furan-3-one; 2- ethyl-4-hydroxy-5-methyl-2H-furan-3-one; 3-hydroxy-2-methyl-4H-pyran-4-one; 2-ethyl-3- hydroxy-4H-pyran-4-one;
[00128] Hydrocarbons, such as 3-carene; alpha-pinene; beta-pinene; alpha-terpinene; gamma-terpinene; p-cymene; bisabolene; camphene; caryophyllene; cedrene; farnesene; limonene; longifolene; myrcene; ocimene; valencene; (E,Z)-1,3,5-undecatriene; styrene; diphenylmethane; the aliphatic alcohols such as Hexanol; Octanol; 3-octanol; 2,6-dimethylheptanol; 2-methyl-2-heptanol; 2-methyl-2-octanol; (E)-2-hexenol; (E)- and (Z)-3-hexenol; 1 -octen-3-ol; mixture of 3,4,5,6,6-pentamethyl-3/4-hepten-2-ol and 3,5,6,6-tetramethyl-4- methyleneheptan-2-ol; (E,Z)-2,6-nonadienol; 3,7-dimethyl-7-methoxyoctan-2-ol; 9-decenol; 10-undecenol; 4-methyl-3-decen-5-ol; [00129] Lactones, such as 1,4-octanolide; 3-methyl-1,4-octanolide; 1,4-nonanolide; 1,4- decanolide; 8-decen-1, 4-olide; 1,4-undecanolide; 1,4-dodecanolide; 1,5-decanolide; 1,5- dodecanolide; 4-methyl-1,4-decanolide; 1,15-pentadecanolide; cis- and trans-11- pentadecen-1, 15-olide; cis- and trans-12-pentadecene-1, 15-olide; 1,16-hexadecanolide; 9- hexadecene-1, 16-olide; 10-oxa-1,16-hexadecanolide; 11-oxa-1,16-hexadecanolide; 12-oxa- 1,16-hexadecanolide; ethylene-1, 12-dodecanedioate; ethylene-1,13-tridecanedioate; coumarin; 2,3-dihydrocoumarin; octahydrocoumarin.
[00130] Phenols, phenyl ethers and phenyl esters, such as Tarragol; anethole; eugenol; eugenyl methyl ether; isoeugenol; isoeugenyl methyl ether; thymol; carvacrol; diphenyl ether; beta-naphthyl methyl ether; beta-naphthyl ethyl ether; beta-naphthyl isobutyl ether; 1,4- dimethoxybenzene; eugenyl acetate; 2-methoxy-4-methylphenol; 2-ethoxy-5-(1- propenyl)phenol; p-cresylphenyl acetate;
[00131] Nitrogen-containing aromatic compounds, such as B. 2,4,6-Trinitro-1,3-dimethyl- 5-tert.- butylbenzene; 3,5-dinitro-2,6-dimethyl-4-tert-butyl acetophenone; cinnamic acid nitrile; 3-methyl-5-phenyl-2-pentenoic acid nitrile; 3-methyl-5-phenylpentanoic acid nitrile; I; methyl anthranilate; methyl N-methyl anthranilate; Schiff bases of methyl anthranilate with 7- hydroxy-3,7-dimethyloctanal, 2-methyl-3-(4-tert.- butylphenyl)propanal or 2,4-dimethyl-3- cyclohexenecarbaldehyde; 6-isopropylquinoline; 6-isobutylquinoline; 6-sec. butylquinoline; 2- (3-phenylpropyl)pyridine; indole; scatole; 2-methoxy-3-isopropylpyrazine; 2-isobutyl-3- methoxy pyrazine;
Preferred fragrances with woody odor
[00132] Suitable fragrances with woody odor are selected from the group consisting of:
Preferred fragrances with amber odor
[00133] Suitable fragrances with amber odor are selected from the group consisting of:
Preferred fragrances with musk odor
[00135] Suitable fragrances with musk odor are selected from the group consisting of:
Dyes [00136] Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the publication "Kosmetische Farbemittel" of the Farbstoff- kommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pages 81 to 106. Examples include cochineal red A (C.l. 16255), patent blue V (C.l. 42051), indigotin (C.l. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.l. 75810), quinoline yellow (C.l. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.l. 77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.l. 69800) and madder lake (C.l. 58000). Luminol may also be present as a luminescent dye. Advantageous coloured pigments are for example titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. FezCb FesC , FeO(OH)) and/or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are for example carmine, Berlin blue, chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet.
Compositions
[00137] Preferred compositions according to the present inventions are selected from the group of products for treatment, protecting, care and cleansing of the skin and/or hair or as a make-up product, preferably as a leave-on product (meaning that the one or more compounds stay on the skin and/or hair for a longer period of time, compared to rinse-off products).
[00138] The formulations according to the invention are preferably in the form of an emulsion, e.g. W/O (water-in-oil), O/W (oil-in-water), W/O/W (water-in-oil-in-water), O/W/O (oil- in-water-in-oil) emulsion, PIT emulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- or nanoemulsion, a solution, e.g. in oil (fatty oils or fatty acid esters, in particular C&- C32 fatty acid C2-C30 esters) or silicone oil, dispersion, suspension, creme, lotion or milk, depending on the production method and ingredients, a gel (including hydrogel, hydrodispersion gel, oleogel), spray (e.g. pump spray or spray with propellant) or a foam or an impregnating solution for cosmetic wipes, a detergent, e.g. soap, synthetic detergent, liquid washing, shower and bath preparation, bath product (capsule, oil, tablet, salt, bath salt, soap, etc.), effervescent preparation, a skin care product such as e.g. an emulsion (as described above), ointment, paste, gel (as described above), oil, balsam, serum, powder (e.g. face powder, body powder), eau de perfume, eau de toilette, after-shave, a mask, a pencil, stick, roll-on, pump, aerosol (foaming, non-foaming or post-foaming), a deodorant and/or antiperspirant, mouthwash and mouth rinse, a foot care product (including keratolytic, deodorant), an insect repellent, a sunscreen, aftersun preparation, a shaving product, aftershave balm, pre- and aftershave lotion, a depilatory agent, a hair care product such as e.g. shampoo (including 2-in- 1 shampoo, anti-dandruff shampoo, baby shampoo, shampoo for dry scalps, concentrated shampoo), conditioner, hair tonic, hair water, hair rinse, styling creme, pomade, perm and setting lotion, hair spray, styling aid (e.g. gel or wax), hair smoothing agent (detangling agent, relaxer), hair dye such as e.g. temporary direct-dyeing hair dye, semi-permanent hair dye, permanent hair dye, hair conditioner, hair mousse, eye care product, make-up, make-up remover or baby product.
[00139] Auxiliary substances and additives can be included in quantities of 5 to 99 % b.w., preferably 10 to 80 % b.w., based on the total weight of the formulation. The amounts of cosmetic or dermatological auxiliary agents and additives and perfume to be used in each case can easily be determined by the person skilled in the art by simple trial and error, depending on the nature of the particular product. [00140] The preparations can also contain water in a quantity of up to 99 wt. -percent., preferably from about 5 to about 80 wt.-percent and more preferably either from about 10 to about 50 or from about 60 to about 80 wt.-percent based on the total weight of the preparation.
INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION
[00141] Another object of the present invention refers to a non-therapeutic, cosmetic method for achieving at least one, two or all of the following effects improving the extracellular matrix; and/or preventing and/or treating loss of skin elasticity preventing and/or treating skin firmness encompassing the following steps:
(i) proving a preparation comprising or consisting of
(a) hydroxy pinacolone retinoate (I) and optionally
(b) at least one Ci-Ce alkyl mono- and/or diester ester of a dicarboxylic acid and/or
(c) at least one antioxidant; and
(ii) administering said preparation topically to human skin.
[00142] It is emphasized that all preferred embodiments in particular related to the selection of actives, their amounts and ratios also count for the method as disclosed above, thus, any repetition is superfluous. EXAMPLES
RNA Sequencing of 3D reconstituted epidermal skin models.
[00143] EpiDerm reconstituted 3D models (MatTek, Bratislava, Slovakia) were cultivated for 72h. Then the SymRenew™ HPR (INCI: Diisopropyl Adipate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Tocopherol) and the benchmark all-trans retinol are daily recurring applied for 5 days. This ingredient is a dedicated blend of Hydroxypinacolone retinoate facilitating a good stability. For each experimental condition, three biological replicates were analyzed. EpiDerm models are harvested in RNA lysis buffer. RNA was isolated using Quiagen RNAeasy Mini kit (Quiagen, Hilden, Germany. Samples were processed for Illumina TruSeq, stranded, poly(A) enriched RNA library preparation. Sequencing was performed on Illumina NextSeq, v2.5 with 75bp and 30 Mio reads per sample.
RNA Sequencing data analysis
[00144] Following base calling, demultiplexing and trimming of Illumina adaptor residuals, data was mapped against the GRCh38 genome and FPKM for each gene was obtained. FPKM were averaged and normalized to either the untreated control or to the ATRA treated sample. Genes with a natural logarithmic fold change smaller than -1 < and bigger than > 1 and p- value < 0.05 (genes with FPKM < 3 were excluded) were considered to be significantly differentially expressed. Functional enrichment and clustering were performed using DAVID Bioinformatics Resources 6.8. Functional clusters with Bonferroni corrected p-value < 0.05 were considered as significant.
Results
[00145] The RNA Seq analysis reveals that HPR changes gene expression of 2747 genes compared to the untreated sample. All-trans retinol changes the expression of 3893 genes compared to the untreated control. In order to show the advantages of the ingredient over all-trans retinol, we analyzed the 493 genes regulated only by HPR but not by all-trans retinol (Figure 3). Among those, we found genes that are associated to the upregulation of extracellular matrix organization, extracellular matrix and collagen suggesting improved basement membrane formation, and dermal-epidermal anchoring and skin elasticity. Further, protein digestion and absorption were promoted, which is very important to protect skin cells from aging processes and improve stratum corneum formation during differentiation (see Figures 1 and 2).
[00146] In the next step, we asked if the ingredient is able to improve gene expression compared to a ll-tra ns-retinol. Therefore, the gene expression data of all-trans retinol was used as control for normalization. With this we found 843 genes differentially expressed genes compared to all-trans retinol (Figure 4). Here it shows that HPR downregulates processes associated with extracellular matrix disassembly, collagen catabolic processes and interferongamma signaling. This indicates that the ingredient suppresses extracellular matrix and collagen degradation and is less irritant than all-trans retinol. On the other hand, it induces gene expression involved in the cornified envelope, peptide cross-linking, keratinocyte differentiation and cell cycle, among others. Further, we compared gene expression of kallikreins, keratins and further keratinocyte differentiation related genes. Here for example, Keratin1/10, Keratin 4/13, Filaggrin (Figure 5) were expressed to a higher extend than in retinol treated samples supporting the gene ontology data. This clearly demonstrates that the ingredient exhibits higher activity with regard to keratinocyte differentiation and thus improves epidermal thickening to a higher extend when used equimolar compared to all-trans retinol (see
Figures 3, 4 and 5)
Discussion and Conclusion
[00147] This study has compared the molecular and phenotypic effects of all-trans retinol and the ingredient, an alternative derivative based on pinacolone esters. Here, we could show that HPR shows improved transcriptomic activity on keratinocyte differentiation and barrier formation when compared to all-trans-retinol. For example, the ingredient shows advantages over all-trans retinol, as it more increases extracellular matrix organization and collagen formation to strengthen the basal membrane. It seems to be less irritant, as it suppresses interferon mediated signalling. Further, it exhibits higher activity regarding keratinocyte differentiation and thus improves epidermal thickening to a higher extend when used in equimolar concentrations and compared to all-trans retinol. In the in vivo wrinkle study, the ingredient and all-trans-retinol result in significant wrinkle reduction with similar efficacy. With this, we conclude that the ingredient is a safe and effective alternative anti-aging compound for the use in anti-aging cosmetic formulations.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
Figure 1 : Venn Diagram showing the differentially regulated genes in response to the ingredient compared to all-trans-retinol
Figure 2: left: Venn Diagram showing 2254 genes (red border) that are regulated by both the ingredient and all-trans-retinol. Right: Gene Ontological clustering of the 2254 shared genes regulated by both the ingredient and all-trans-retinol.
Figure 3: left: Venn Diagram with highlighted gene class (red border) showing those 493 genes that are regulated only by the ingredient but not by all-trans-retinol. Right: Gene Ontological clustering of the 493 genes regulated only by the ingredient. Figure 4: Gene Ontological clustering of the 843 genes regulated only by the ingredient separated for the upregulated and downregulated genes.
Figure 5: Selected genes involved in Keratinocyte differentiation and barrier formation are upregulated compared to all-trans retinol. Figure 6: Left: Pictures of the wrinkle reduction in vivo study Right: Bar chart showing th effect of the ingredient compared to all-trans retinol. * p <0.05 vs placebo
FORMULATION EXAMPLES FOR COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
The following examples F1 to F18 show various formulations for cosmetic compositions. "SymRenew® HPR" stands for a preparation comprising hydroxy pinacolone retinoate, diisopropyl adipate, and tocopherol
Table F1
0/W lotion (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F2
Body lotion (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F3
Cream (Amounts in % b.w.) Table F4
Cream (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F5
Hand and body cream (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F6
Face cream (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F7
Moisturizing body care cream (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F8
Anti-wrinkle cream (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F9
Functional skin oil for disinfection (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F10
Moisturizing and disinfecting face mask (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F11
Sprayable disinfecting gel (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F12
Cosmetic sun protection composition (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table Fl 3
Sun protection spray (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F14
Sunscreen spray 0/W. SPE 15-20 (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table Fl 5
Sun protection soft cream (W/0). SPF 40 (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F16
Sun protection milk (W/0) (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F17
After sun gel (Amounts in % b.w.)
Table F18
After sun lotion (Amounts in % b.w.)
CITED LITERATURE
[1] Heyman, R A, Mangelsdorf, D J, Dyck, J Aet al (1992) 9-cis retinoic acid is a high affinity ligand for the retinoid X receptor. Cell 68(2) 397-406
[2] Levin, A A, Sturzenbecker, L J, Kazmer, Set al (1992) 9-cis retinoic acid stereoisomer binds and activates the nuclear receptor RXR alpha. Nature 355(6358) 359-361
[3] Piskunov, A, & Rochette-Egly, C (2012) A retinoic acid receptor RARoc pool present in membrane lipid rafts forms complexes with G protein ocQ to activate p38MAPK. Oncogene 31(28) 3333-3345
[4] Masia, S, Alvarez, S, de Lera, A Ret al (2007) Rapid, Nongenomic Actions of Retinoic Acid on Phosphatidylinositol-3-Kinase Signaling Pathway Mediated by the Retinoic Acid Receptor. Molecular Endocrinology 27(10) 2391-2402
[5] Szymanski, L, Skopek, R, Palusihska, Met al (2020) Retinoic Acid and Its Derivatives in Skin. Cells 9(12) 2660
[6] Tdrma, H (2011) Regulation of keratin expression by retinoids. Dermato-endocrinology 3(3) 136-140
[7] Hubbard, B A, Unger, J G, & Rohrich, R J (2014) Reversal of Skin Aging with Topical Retinoids. Plastic and reconstructive surgery 133(4)
[8] Baumann, L (2007) Skin ageing and its treatment. J Pathol 217(2) 241 -251
[9] Puizina-lvic, N, Miric, L, Carija, Aet al Modern approach to topical treatment of aging skin. Coll Antropol 34(3) 1145-1153
[10] Isoherranen, N, & Zhong, G (2019) Biochemical and physiological importance of the CYP26 retinoic acid hydroxylases. Pharmacology & Therapeutics 204 107400
[10] Yin, S, Luo, J, Qian, Aet al (2013) Retinoids activate the irritant receptor TRPV1 and produce sensory hypersensitivity. Journal of Clinical Investigation 123(9) 3941 -3951
[12] Varani, J, Fay, K, & Perone, P (2007) MDI 301, a non-irritating retinoid, induces changes in human skin that underlie repair. Archives of Dermatological Research 298(9) 439-448

Claims

WHAT CLAIMED IS
1. A preparation for use as a medicament in the protection and/or treatment of dysfunctions of human skin, comprising or consisting of
(a) hydroxy pinacolone retinoate (I) and optionally
(b) at least one Ci-Ce alkyl mono- and/or diester ester of a dicarboxylic acid and/or
(c) at least one antioxidant.
The preparation for use according to Claim 1, wherein said dysfunctions are selected from the group consisting of
• Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome,
• Cutis Laxa;
• Elastolysis;
• Cellulitis;
• Ligament laxity;
• Loss of skin elasticity;
• Loss of skin firmness.
3. The preparation for use according to Claim 1 and/or 2, wherein component (b) follows formula (II)
R1COO-(CH2)n(CH = CH)p(CH2)qCOOR2 (II)
In which R1 and R2 stand independently from each other for hydrogen, linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, n and q independently from each other for integers from 1 to 6 and p for 0 or 1, on condition that R1 and R2 cannot represent hydrogen at the same time.
4. The preparation for use according to any of the preceding Claims 1 to 3, wherein component (b) is diisopropyl adipate.
5. The preparation for use according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein components (a) and (b) are present in a ratio by weight of from about 1 :99 to about 25:75.
6. The preparation for use according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 5, wherein said antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, |3-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
7. The preparation for use according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein said antioxidants are present in amounts of from about 0.1 to about 5 wt.-percent - calculated on the preparation.
8. The preparation for use according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein said preparation is used in a pharmaceutical composition, in which component (a) is present in an amount ranging from about 0.0001 to about 2 wt.-percent, preferably from about 0.001 to about 0.5 wt.-percent and more preferably from about 0.01 to about 0.2 wt.- percent.
9. The preparation for use according to Claim 8, wherein said pharmaceutical composition represents a lotion, a cream, a spray or an ointment, all for topical application on human skin.
10. The non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of a preparation, comprising or consisting of
(a) hydroxy pinacolone retinoate (I) and optionally
(b) at least one Ci-Ce alkyl mono- and/or diester ester of a dicarboxylic acid and/or
(c) at least one antioxidant. against ageing of human skin.
11. A cosmetic composition, encompassing a preparation, comprising or consisting of
(a) hydroxy pinacolone retinoate (I) and optionally
(b) at least one Ci-Ce alkyl mono- and/or diester ester of a dicarboxylic acid and/or
(c) at least one antioxidant.
12. The composition of Claim 11, wherein said preparation comprises or consists of
(a) hydroxy pinacolone retinoate
(b) diisopropyl adipate, and
(c) tocopherol.
13. The composition of Claim 11 and/or 12, wherein the preparation comprising or consisting of components (a), (b) and (c) in amounts of from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.- percent.
14. The composition of any of the preceding Claims 11 to 13, further comprising at least one of the following auxiliary agents anti-itching agents; anti-inflammatory agents; anti-acne agents; sebum-reducing agents physiological cooling agents; and skin care agents.
15. A non-therapeutic, cosmetic method for achieving at least one, two, three or all of the following effects improving the extracellular matrix; and/or preventing and/or treating loss of skin elasticity and/or preventing and/or treating skin firmness encompassing the following steps:
(i) proving a preparation comprising or consisting of
(a) hydroxy pinacolone retinoate (I) and optionally
(b) at least one Ci-Ce alkyl mono- and/or diester ester of a dicarboxylic acid and/or
(c) at least one antioxidant; and
(ii) administering said preparation topically to human skin
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