EP4676432A1 - Natural cosmetic composition - Google Patents
Natural cosmetic compositionInfo
- Publication number
- EP4676432A1 EP4676432A1 EP24709739.7A EP24709739A EP4676432A1 EP 4676432 A1 EP4676432 A1 EP 4676432A1 EP 24709739 A EP24709739 A EP 24709739A EP 4676432 A1 EP4676432 A1 EP 4676432A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic composition
- starch
- inci
- oryza sativa
- gum
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
- A61K8/445—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof aromatic, i.e. the carboxylic acid directly linked to the aromatic ring
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/733—Alginic acid; Salts thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and a natural organic thickener as well as the use a combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and a natural organic thickener for the stabilization of a cosmetic composition.
- Cosmetic compositions represent a ubiquitous part of modern life. Cosmetic compositions cover leave-on and rinse-off products such as skin and body care including daily care compositions and sunscreens, hair care including shampoos, conditioners, shower gels, make-up, and many other products.
- the requirements for such cosmetic compositions are constantly increasing, whether it is regarding performance, sustainability, or cost. In particular, the sustainability of cosmetic composition is becoming more and more relevant to consumers and regulators.
- biobased materials are becoming increasingly desirable.
- materials derived from fossil resources such as synthetic polymers
- bio-based materials have a substantially smaller carbon footprint.
- these materials often do not provide the same performance as conventional materials derived from fossil resources.
- compositions usually comprise, e.g. liquid or solid water- or oilsoluble UV filters, particulate UV filters, solubilizers, emulsifiers and so on.
- Sunscreens generally contain a high oil load which affects the physical (macroscopic) stability of the formulation and makes it difficult to obtain a high viscosity composition. Sunscreens are also used in extreme temperature conditions, i.e. in hot summer or in cold winter which is a further challenge for the stability of the sunscreen product. These factors can contribute to the separation of components or phases within the cosmetic composition and therefore result in an inhomogeneous composition.
- an inhomogeneous, unstable sunscreen composition may not provide the promised and expected protection from UV radiation any longer.
- the invention relates to a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter. It was discovered that at least one of the objectives of the invention can be achieved with such a cosmetic composition.
- the second aspect of the invention relates to a use of a combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener for the stabilization of a cosmetic composition, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
- the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
- the third aspect of the invention relates to a use of a combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener for increasing the viscosity of a cosmetic composition, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
- oryza sativa starch INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch
- at least one natural organic thickener for increasing the viscosity of a cosmetic composition
- the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
- the fourth aspect of the present invention relates to a method for preparing the inventive cosmetic composition by providing oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch), at least one natural organic thickener, and other ingredients for a cosmetic composition, mixing the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch), the at least one natural organic thickener and the other ingredients to obtain the cosmetic composition, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
- the present invention will be described with respect to particular embodiments and with reference to certain examples, but the invention is not limited thereto, and it is only defined by the appending claims.
- a group is defined to comprise at least a certain number of embodiments, this is meant to also encompass a group which preferably consists of these embodiments only.
- the terms “first”, “second”, “third” or “(a)”, “(b)”, “(c)”, “(d)” etc. and the like in the description and in the claims, are used for distinguishing between similar elements and not necessarily for describing a sequential or chronological order. It is to be understood that the terms so used are interchangeable under appropriate circumstances and that the embodiments of the invention described herein are capable of operation in other sequences than described or illustrated herein.
- first”, “second”, “third” or “(a)”, “(b)”, “(c)”, “(d)”, “i”, “ii” etc. relate to steps of a method or use or assay there is no time or time interval coherence between the steps, i.e. the steps may be carried out simultaneously or there may be time intervals of seconds, minutes, hours, days, weeks, months or even years between such steps, unless otherwise indicated in the application as set forth herein above or below. It is to be understood that this invention is not limited to the particular methodology, protocols, reagents etc. described herein as these may vary.
- the term “does not comprise” or “free of” means in the context that the composition of the present invention is free of a specific compound or group of compounds, which may be combined under a collective term, that the composition does not comprise said compound or group of compounds in an amount of more than 0.8 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, it is preferred that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise said compounds or group of compounds in an amount of more than 0.5 % by weight, preferably the composition does not comprise said compounds or group of compounds at all.
- compositions and the weight percent of the therein comprised ingredients it is to be understood that according to the present invention the overall amount of ingredients does not exceed 100% ( ⁇ 1 % due to rounding).
- C12-C15 alkyl benzoate refers to esters of benzoic acid with fatty alcohols containing a C12-C15-alkyl chain.
- C12-C15 alkyl chain is defined as an alkyl chain with C12, C13, C14 or C15 chain length.
- Cn-Cm carboxylic acids denotes in each case a linear or branched carboxylic acids having from n to m carbon atoms, such as 6 to 24 carbon atoms.
- Cn-Cm alcohols denotes in each case a linear or branched alcohol having from n to m carbon atoms, such as having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
- C2-C12 dicarboxylic acids denotes in each case a dicarboxylic acid having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms such as butanedioic acid (succinic acid), pentanedioic acid (glutaric acid), hexanedioic acid (adipic acid), or decanedioic acid (sebacic acid).
- dialkyl ether denotes in each case a linear or branched dialkyl ether having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms and comprising at least one ether moiety.
- C6-C22 alcohol carbonates denotes in each case a linear or branched alcohol carbonates having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and comprising at least one functional group consisting of a carbonyl group flanked by two alkoxy groups.
- alkyl denotes in each case a straight-chain or branched alkyl group having exemplarily from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
- Examples of an alkyl group are methyl, ethyl, n- propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, 2-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, 1 -methylbutyl, 2 methylbutyl, 3 methylbutyl, 2, 2-dh methyl propyl, 1 ethylpropyl, n-hexyl, 1 ,1 -di methyl propyl, 1 ,2-di methyl propyl, 1 -methylpentyl, 2-methylpentyl, 3-methylpentyl, 4-methylpentyl, 1 ,1-dimethyhbutyl, 1 ,2- dimethylbutyl, 1 ,3-dimethyhbutyl, 2,2-
- alkoxy denotes in each case a linear or branched alkyl group which is bonded via an oxygen atom and has usually from 1 to 20 carbon atoms.
- alkoxy group examples are methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, iso-prop- , oxy, n-butyloxy, 2-butyloxy, iso-butyloxy, tert.- butyloxy, and the like.
- carboxyalkyl as used herein includes carboxymethyl, carboxyethyl, carboxypropyl, carboxyisopropyl, carboxybutyl, carboxyisobutyl, carboxyamyl, carboxyhexyl, carboxyheptyl, carboxyoctyl, carboxyisooctyl, carboxynonyl, carboxydecyl, carboxyundecyl, carboxydodecyl, carboxytetradecyl, carboxyhexadecyl, and carboxyoctadecyl, carboxymethyl being preferred.
- cycloalkyl denotes in each case a monocyclic cycloaliphatic radical having usually from 3 to 10 or from 5 to 8 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, cyclooctyl, cyclononyl and cyclodecyl or cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl.
- substituted means that a hydrogen atom bonded to a designated atom is replaced with a specified substituent, provided that the substitution results in a stable or chemically feasible compound. Unless otherwise indicated, a substituted atom may have one or more substituents and each substituent is independently selected.
- sunscreen composition refers to any topical product which absorbs and which may further reflect and scatter certain parts of UV radiation.
- sunscreen composition is to be understood as not only including sunscreen compositions, but also any cosmetic compositions that provide UV protection.
- topical product refers to a product that is applied to the skin and can refer, e.g., to sprays, lotions, creams, oils, foams, powders, or gels.
- stabilization of a cosmetic composition is defined according to the present invention as the stabilization of the structural integrity of the cosmetic composition.
- the stabilization of the structural integrity of the cosmetic composition is preferably determined by visual assessment (macroscopic stability) at different storage temperatures over time, microscopic assessment, centrifugal analysis, measurement of the viscosity and pH over time; most preferred the stabilization is determined by visual assessment.
- the visual assessment is performed by determining via eye test whether the composition remains homogenous (for example no oil release, no water separation).
- the centrifugal assessment can be used as an accelerated stability test.
- broadband protection also referred to as broad-spectrum or broad protection
- UV-B and UV-A protection must be provided.
- a critical wavelength of at least 370 nm is required for achieving broad spectrum protection.
- SPDF sun protection factor
- administration refers to the application of a sunscreen or daily care composition to the skin of a person.
- rice starch refers to oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) unless otherwise noted.
- natural in “natural organic thickener” refers to a component that is derived fully or at least partially, preferably fully, from natural resources.
- a natural resource is any biological or mineral asset afforded by nature.
- Natural resources within the meaning of the invention comprise inter alia plants, forests, vegetation, surface water and groundwater, fertile lands, soil, and minerals. Natural resources within the meaning of the invention do not comprise products obtained from fossil resources such as from petroleum, natural gas, crude oil or coal.
- An alternative term for “natural” within this invention is the term “bio-based”. The terms are meant to be used interchangeably within this invention. In case the term “natural” is used in a different context than in context with the “natural organic thickener”, the meaning of the term is the same as defined for “natural organic thickener” unless otherwise noted.
- organic in “natural organic thickener” refers to an organic compound or organic compound mixture.
- An organic compound is any of a large class of chemical compounds in which one or more atoms of carbon are covalently linked to atoms of other elements, most commonly carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, or nitrogen.
- the few carbon-containing compounds not classified as organic include carbides, carbonates, and cyanides.
- the meaning of the term is the same as defined for “natural organic thickener” unless otherwise noted.
- thickener in “natural organic thickener” refers to a component that increases the viscosity of a mixture.
- a thickener may lead to an increase in the viscosity of a composition, for example, by binding liquid, in particular water, present in the composition.
- a thickener might gel when in contact with water.
- a thickener might not gel when in contact with water.
- the skilled person is aware of typical thickeners and the general properties of thickeners.
- the terms “thickener” and “thickening agent” are meant to be used interchangeably within this invention. In case the term “thickener” is used in a different context than in context with the “natural organic thickener”, the meaning of the term is the same as defined for “natural organic thickener” unless otherwise noted.
- synthetic thickener refers to thickeners as defined above that are, however, derived from fossil resources, in particular from oil and gas through several reaction and processing steps. Synthetic thickeners are man-made by synthesis and processing. Types of synthetic thickeners are synthetic polymers and microplastics with thickening activity.
- Common synthetic thickeners are polyacrylates or homopolymers of reticulated acrylic acids or polyacrylamides such as carbomers, acrylate copolymers, acrylate I C10-C30-alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylate I beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, VP/eicosene copolymer, VP/hexadecen copolymer, and triacontanyl PVP. It is preferred that the inventive cosmetic composition is free of synthetic thickeners.
- microplastic refers to small, solid particles made of a synthetic polymer. Some synthetic thickeners can be microplastics and vice versa. The solid particles of microplastics are often non-soluble in water and preferably have a particle size distribution Dv50 of less than 5 mm. Examples of microplastics used in cosmetic compositions in the art are styrene I PVP or styrene acrylamide copolymers, polyamide derivatives such as nylon-12; polymethyl methacrylates, and polyethylene. It is also preferred that the inventive cosmetic composition is free of microplastic.
- synthetic polymer material herein refers to polymer material that is derived from fossil resources, in particular from oil and gas through several reaction and processing steps.
- polymer material herein refers to a material consisting of large molecules called macromolecules which are composed of repeating subunits chemically bonding to form long polymer chains. Polymer material is obtained via polymerization of many small molecules, which are known as monomers. Synthetic thickeners and microplastic are part of the group “synthetic polymer material”.
- the first aspect of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
- the combination of rice starch and at least one natural organic thickener in a cosmetic composition provides stability and structural integrity to a cosmetic composition for several weeks to months.
- the natural organic thickener is a natural gum selected from the group consisting of agar, alginic acid/sodium alginate (algin), carrageenan, gum arabic, gum ghatti, gum tragacanth, karaya gum, locust bean gum, beta-glucan, dammar gum, glucomannan, psyllium seed husks, tara gum (Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum), gellan gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof. Natural gums have been found to be excellent thickening agents in combination with oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch). They are readily available and economical.
- Oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) particles used in the present invention may be provided in different forms or shapes.
- the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) particles have a polygonal particle shape.
- the term “polygonal particle shape” herein means that at least 75% of the number of particles of a sample of the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) have three or more vertices or corners, preferred four or more vertices or corners, even more preferred five or more vertices or corners, as identified by electron microscopy.
- Oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) particles with a polygonal particle shape are particularly well suited for providing excellent structural integrity for cosmetic compositions.
- the oryza sativa starch (I NCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) used in the present invention may also have different particle size distributions.
- the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) has a particle size distribution Dv50 determined by static laser scattering of from 2 to 10 pm, in particular from 6 to 8 pm. Oryza sativa starch with such a Dv50 value has been found to be particularly suited to provide optimal structural stability to a cosmetic composition.
- the particle size distribution Dv50 of the oryza sativa starch is preferably determined by static laser scattering.
- Dv50 values were determined using static laser scattering with a Beckman coulter LS-13230 particle size analyzer universal liquid module with PI DS using a 2% suspension of rice starch in deionized water.
- the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) used in the inventive composition has the ability to bind liquids such as oil effectively.
- the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) has an oil absorption capacity of 0.5 to 1 .0 g, preferably of 0.7 to 0.8 g oil per 1 .0 g starch. With such an oil absorption capacity of the oryza sative starch used, the cosmetic composition possesses a particularly high viscosity and structural integrity.
- the oil absorption capacity of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) may be determined by mixing a weight-in sample of oryza sativa starch with an excess oil in a weighted centrifuge tube to obtain a dispersion, centrifuging the dispersion, removing the supernatant completely, and then weighing the centrifuge tube comprising the starch and oil that was absorbed by the starch.
- the amount of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) in the inventive cosmetic composition can be varied broadly depending on the relevant cosmetic application. A larger amount of oryza sativa starch may lead to a higher viscosity and thicker cosmetic composition, whereas a smaller amount of oryza sativa starch will generally result in a lower viscosity composition - all other components being equal. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amount of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) in the cosmetic composition is from 0.6 to 10.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
- the presence of at least one organic or inorganic UV filter provides protection of the skin from dangerous UVA and UVB radiation.
- the at least one organic or inorganic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of:
- UVA+UVB Broad spectrum
- the cosmetic composition In case water is present in the cosmetic composition it is to be understood that it is preferably present in an amount of more than 5 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Further, it is to be understood that in case water is present in the cosmetic composition, the cosmetic composition can be an oil in water emulsion (O/W emulsion), a water in oil emulsion (W/O emulsion), a gel cream or an oil in gel.
- O/W emulsion oil in water emulsion
- W/O emulsion water in oil emulsion
- gel cream an oil in gel.
- the inventive cosmetic composition is free of microplastic.
- the inventive cosmetic composition is free of synthetic thickener. It is more preferred that the inventive cosmetic composition is free of microplastic and free of synthetic thickener.
- the term “free of’ herein means that the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.%, preferably less than 0.001 wt.% and most preferred less than 0.0001 wt.% of microplastic or synthetic thickener, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the inventive cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% of synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.01wt.%, more preferred less than 0.001 wt.% and most preferred less than 0.0001 wt.% of synthetic polymer material, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the feature that the composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% of synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition includes the embodiment that the composition is free of synthetic polymer material. In fact, it is particularly preferred that the cosmetic composition is free of synthetic polymer material.
- synthetic polymer material comprises synthetic thickeners, microplastics and other synthetic polymers.
- the cosmetic composition is free of VP/eicosen copolymer, i.e. comprises less than 0.0001 wt.% of VP/eicosen copolymer, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the cosmetic composition is free of VP/Hexadecen copolymer, i.e. comprises less than 0.0001 wt.% of VP/Hexadecen copolymer, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the cosmetic composition is free of Triacontanyl PVP, i.e. comprises less than 0.0001 wt.% of Triacontanyl PVP, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- the inventive cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
- the cosmetic composition has a SPF (sun protection factor) value of minimum 6 up to 50+ (according to the EC recommendation).
- SPF can exemplarily be determined by simulation calculation using BASF sunscreen simulator (https://sunscreensimulator.basf.com/) or in vivo or in vitro.
- BASF sunscreen simulator https://sunscreensimulator.basf.com/
- a suitable in vitro method may be performed as follows:
- SPF in vitro determination is based on the assessment of UV-transmittance through a thin film of sunscreen sample spread on roughened substrate - SB6 PMMA-plates (4-5pm roughness, area 4.8 x 4.8 cm) from Helioscreen, Creil, France.
- the sunscreen formulation to be tested was applied on the PM MA plate with an amount of 1.2mg/cm 2 . Three plates and 5 measurements per plate were done per formulation. The formulation was distributed manually as equal as possible on the plate. The plates applied with formulation were stored 30 minutes at room temperature and in a dark place prior the measurement.
- In vitro transmission measurement were performed from 290-400 nm with 1 nm steps with the Labsphere UV Transmittance Analyzer UV 2000S.
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- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener as well as the use of a combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener for stabilization.
Description
Natural cosmetic composition
Technical field
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and a natural organic thickener as well as the use a combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and a natural organic thickener for the stabilization of a cosmetic composition.
Background
Cosmetic compositions represent a ubiquitous part of modern life. Cosmetic compositions cover leave-on and rinse-off products such as skin and body care including daily care compositions and sunscreens, hair care including shampoos, conditioners, shower gels, make-up, and many other products. The requirements for such cosmetic compositions are constantly increasing, whether it is regarding performance, sustainability, or cost. In particular, the sustainability of cosmetic composition is becoming more and more relevant to consumers and regulators.
In this regard, the use of microplastics and synthetic polymers in general in cosmetic compositions has come under increased scrutiny. There is a growing demand from consumers for cosmetics that are free of microplastics and further of synthetic polymers in general. Therefore, cosmetic compositions that are free of microplastics and synthetic polymers in general are desirable.
Another important aspect of sustainability is the sourcing of the material. In this regard, biobased materials are becoming increasingly desirable. In contrast to materials derived from fossil resources such as synthetic polymers, bio-based materials have a substantially smaller carbon footprint. Unfortunately, these materials often do not provide the same performance as conventional materials derived from fossil resources.
An important requirement for cosmetic compositions is the stability of the formulation, especially over longer storage periods. This is particularly challenging for sunscreens due to the number of different components such compositions usually comprise, e.g. liquid or solid water- or oilsoluble UV filters, particulate UV filters, solubilizers, emulsifiers and so on. Sunscreens generally contain a high oil load which affects the physical (macroscopic) stability of the formulation and makes it difficult to obtain a high viscosity composition. Sunscreens are also used in extreme temperature conditions, i.e. in hot summer or in cold winter which is a further challenge for the stability of the sunscreen product.
These factors can contribute to the separation of components or phases within the cosmetic composition and therefore result in an inhomogeneous composition. This process may occur quickly within days or slowly over several weeks or months. However, the formation of an inhomogeneous, unstable composition can greatly impact the appearance of the product, the sensory properties of the product or even worse the performance of a personal care product. For example, an inhomogeneous, unstable sunscreen composition may not provide the promised and expected protection from UV radiation any longer.
Therefore, there is an ongoing need to develop sustainable cosmetic compositions with a good medium- to long-term stability which are free of microplastics.
Summary of the invention
It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition comprising bio-based materials.
Furthermore, it is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition that is particularly sustainable due to the bio-based materials.
Furthermore, it is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition that is free of microplastics and/or synthetic polymer materials.
It is another object of the invention to provide a cosmetic composition with high macroscopic stability and long-term storage stability.
It is a further object of the invention to provide a cosmetic composition with a high viscosity, suited for different personal care applications.
According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter. It was discovered that at least one of the objectives of the invention can be achieved with such a cosmetic composition.
During a comprehensive investigation into possible bio-based materials for the application in cosmetic compositions such as sunscreens or daily care compositions with or without UV protection, it was surprisingly discovered that a specific type of starch - oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) - obtained from rice greatly increases the stability of a cosmetic composition if the starch is combined with at least one natural organic thickener. Interestingly, neither the rice starch by itself nor the natural organic thickener by itself can provide sufficient stability to a cosmetic composition. However, these two bio-based materials in
combination allow for the provision of a high viscosity cosmetic composition that remains stable over several weeks and months. When these two bio-based materials are used in combination, no further synthetic polymer based thickeners, synthetic polymer binders, synthetic polymer water retention agents, or any type of synthetic polymer material is needed to obtain a cosmetic composition with excellent viscosity properties. This holds true even for sunscreen compositions which have a particularly complex ingredient composition with a high oil load.
Without being bound to any specific scientific theory, it seems that the interaction of the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) with the at least one natural organic thickener provides a stable, long-lasting structure to the formulation. The viscosity of the composition remains stable even over extended storage periods.
The second aspect of the invention relates to a use of a combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener for the stabilization of a cosmetic composition, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter. As stated regarding the first aspect of the invention, it was surprisingly discovered that a combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and a natural organic thickener stabilizes cosmetic compositions effectively. These two components provide the necessary structural integrity for different types of cosmetic compositions and provide long-term stability to these cosmetic compositions.
The third aspect of the invention relates to a use of a combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener for increasing the viscosity of a cosmetic composition, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
The fourth aspect of the present invention relates to a method for preparing the inventive cosmetic composition by providing oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch), at least one natural organic thickener, and other ingredients for a cosmetic composition, mixing the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch), the at least one natural organic thickener and the other ingredients to obtain the cosmetic composition, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
The present invention will be described with respect to particular embodiments and with reference to certain examples, but the invention is not limited thereto, and it is only defined by the appending claims.
Definitions
As used in this specification and in the appended claims, the singular forms of "a" and "an" also include the respective plurals unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. In the context of the present invention, the terms "about" and "approximately" denote an interval of accuracy that a person skilled in the art will understand to still ensure the technical effect of the feature in question. The term typically indicates a deviation from the indicated numerical value of ±20 %, preferably ±15 %, more preferably ±10 %, and even more preferably ±5 %. It is to be understood that the term "comprising" is not limiting. For the purposes of the present invention the term "consisting of is considered to be a preferred embodiment of the term "comprising of. If hereinafter a group is defined to comprise at least a certain number of embodiments, this is meant to also encompass a group which preferably consists of these embodiments only. Furthermore, the terms "first", "second", "third" or "(a)", "(b)", "(c)", "(d)" etc. and the like in the description and in the claims, are used for distinguishing between similar elements and not necessarily for describing a sequential or chronological order. It is to be understood that the terms so used are interchangeable under appropriate circumstances and that the embodiments of the invention described herein are capable of operation in other sequences than described or illustrated herein. In case the terms "first", "second", "third" or "(a)", "(b)", "(c)", "(d)", "i", "ii" etc. relate to steps of a method or use or assay there is no time or time interval coherence between the steps, i.e. the steps may be carried out simultaneously or there may be time intervals of seconds, minutes, hours, days, weeks, months or even years between such steps, unless otherwise indicated in the application as set forth herein above or below. It is to be understood that this invention is not limited to the particular methodology, protocols, reagents etc. described herein as these may vary. It is also to be understood that the terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only, and is not intended to limit the scope of the present invention that will be limited only by the appended claims. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meanings as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art.
As used herein the term “does not comprise” or “free of means in the context that the composition of the present invention is free of a specific compound or group of compounds, which may be combined under a collective term, that the composition does not comprise said compound or group of compounds in an amount of more than 0.8 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, it is preferred that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise said compounds or group of compounds in an amount
of more than 0.5 % by weight, preferably the composition does not comprise said compounds or group of compounds at all.
When referring to compositions and the weight percent of the therein comprised ingredients it is to be understood that according to the present invention the overall amount of ingredients does not exceed 100% (± 1 % due to rounding).
The prefix Cn-Cm indicates in each case the possible number of carbon atoms in the group. The term “C12-C15 alkyl benzoate” refers to esters of benzoic acid with fatty alcohols containing a C12-C15-alkyl chain. C12-C15 alkyl chain is defined as an alkyl chain with C12, C13, C14 or C15 chain length.
The term “Cn-Cm carboxylic acids” as used herein denotes in each case a linear or branched carboxylic acids having from n to m carbon atoms, such as 6 to 24 carbon atoms.
The term “Cn-Cm alcohols” as used herein denotes in each case a linear or branched alcohol having from n to m carbon atoms, such as having from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, or from 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
The term “C2-C12 dicarboxylic acids” as used herein denotes in each case a dicarboxylic acid having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms such as butanedioic acid (succinic acid), pentanedioic acid (glutaric acid), hexanedioic acid (adipic acid), or decanedioic acid (sebacic acid).
The term ’’dialkyl ether” as used herein denotes in each case a linear or branched dialkyl ether having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms and comprising at least one ether moiety.
The term “C6-C22 alcohol carbonates” as used herein denotes in each case a linear or branched alcohol carbonates having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and comprising at least one functional group consisting of a carbonyl group flanked by two alkoxy groups.
The term "alkyl" as used herein denotes in each case a straight-chain or branched alkyl group having exemplarily from 1 to 18 carbon atoms. Examples of an alkyl group are methyl, ethyl, n- propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, 2-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, 1 -methylbutyl, 2 methylbutyl, 3 methylbutyl, 2, 2-dh methyl propyl, 1 ethylpropyl, n-hexyl, 1 ,1 -di methyl propyl, 1 ,2-di methyl propyl, 1 -methylpentyl, 2-methylpentyl, 3-methylpentyl, 4-methylpentyl, 1 ,1-dimethyhbutyl, 1 ,2- dimethylbutyl, 1 ,3-dimethyhbutyl, 2,2-di methyl butyl, 2,3-dimethylbutyl, 3,3-dimethyhbutyl, 1- ethylbutyl, 2-ethylbutyl, 1 , 1 ,2-trimethylpropyl, 1 , 2, 2-tri methyl propyl, 1-ethyl-1-methyhpropyl, and 1 -ethyl-2-methylpropyl.
The term "alkoxy" as used herein denotes in each case a linear or branched alkyl group which is bonded via an oxygen atom and has usually from 1 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples of an alkoxy group are methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, iso-prop-,oxy, n-butyloxy, 2-butyloxy, iso-butyloxy, tert.- butyloxy, and the like.
The term “carboxyalkyl” as used herein includes carboxymethyl, carboxyethyl, carboxypropyl, carboxyisopropyl, carboxybutyl, carboxyisobutyl, carboxyamyl, carboxyhexyl, carboxyheptyl,
carboxyoctyl, carboxyisooctyl, carboxynonyl, carboxydecyl, carboxyundecyl, carboxydodecyl, carboxytetradecyl, carboxyhexadecyl, and carboxyoctadecyl, carboxymethyl being preferred. The term “cycloalkyl” as used herein denotes in each case a monocyclic cycloaliphatic radical having usually from 3 to 10 or from 5 to 8 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, cyclooctyl, cyclononyl and cyclodecyl or cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl.
The term "substituted" as used herein, means that a hydrogen atom bonded to a designated atom is replaced with a specified substituent, provided that the substitution results in a stable or chemically feasible compound. Unless otherwise indicated, a substituted atom may have one or more substituents and each substituent is independently selected.
The term “cosmetic composition” refers to any topical product which is intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, altering the appearance, or protecting the skin without affecting the body’s structure or function. Possible cosmetic compositions within the meaning of the invention comprise leave-on and rinse-off products such as face and body care including daily care compositions with or without UV protection and sunscreen or sunscreen compositions, hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, shower gels, make-up compositions and similar compositions.
The term “sunscreen composition” or “sunscreen” refers to any topical product which absorbs and which may further reflect and scatter certain parts of UV radiation. Thus, the term “sunscreen composition” is to be understood as not only including sunscreen compositions, but also any cosmetic compositions that provide UV protection. The term “topical product” refers to a product that is applied to the skin and can refer, e.g., to sprays, lotions, creams, oils, foams, powders, or gels. According to the present invention the sunscreen composition may comprise one or more active agents, e.g., organic and inorganic UV filters, as well as other ingredients or additives, e.g., emulsifiers, emollients, viscosity regulators, stabilizers, preservatives, or fragrances.
The term “daily care composition” refers to any topical product which is intended to be used daily without or with a UV protection. In case UV protection is included, it absorbs and may further reflect and scatter certain parts of UV radiation and is used as an everyday care product for the human body, e.g. for face or body. The daily care composition may comprise one or more active agents, e.g., organic and/or inorganic UV filters, as well as other ingredients or additives, e.g., emulsifiers, emollients, viscosity regulators, stabilizers, preservatives, or fragrances. Suitable daily care compositions are according to the present invention, e.g. leave- on face and body care products.
Suitable leave-on products for face and body are, e.g. sunscreen preparations and skin care preparations.
Suitable skin care preparations are e.g., moisturizing, anti-ageing, refining, and lifting preparations. The cited leave-on compositions can be in the form of creams, ointments, pastes, foams, gels, lotions, powders, make-ups, sprays, sticks or aerosols. Daily-care compositions with UV protection protect against damages on human skin by UV light.
The term “UV filter” or “ultraviolet filter” as used herein refers to organic or inorganic compounds, which can absorb and may further reflect and scatter UV radiation caused by sunlight. UV-filter can be classified based on their UV absorbance profile as UV-A, UV-B, or broadband filters. Preferably, the term “UV filter” comprises or consists of any UV filter as defined in the Annex VI (version of 11.11 .2022) of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.
The term “stabilization of a cosmetic composition” is defined according to the present invention as the stabilization of the structural integrity of the cosmetic composition. The stabilization of the structural integrity of the cosmetic composition is preferably determined by visual assessment (macroscopic stability) at different storage temperatures over time, microscopic assessment, centrifugal analysis, measurement of the viscosity and pH over time; most preferred the stabilization is determined by visual assessment. The visual assessment is performed by determining via eye test whether the composition remains homogenous (for example no oil release, no water separation). The centrifugal assessment can be used as an accelerated stability test. To determine whether the combination of oryza sativa starch and a natural organic thickener result in a stabilization of a cosmetic composition, the stability of a cosmetic composition is evaluated by one of the methods mentioned in the previous sentences once without the addition of the combination of oryza sativa starch and a natural organic thickener and once with the addition of the combination of oryza sativa starch and a natural organic thickener. It was discovered that the use of the inventive combination of oryza sativa starch and a natural organic thickener leads to a more stable cosmetic composition compared to a composition that does not comprise this combination.
Water soluble UV filters have a solubility in water of at least 2 % by weight, preferably at least 3 % by weight, more preferably at least 5 % by weight.
Oil soluble filters have a solubility in specific emollients of at least 2 % by weight, preferably at least 3 % by weight, more preferably at least 5 % by weight.
The term “emollient” relates to cosmetic specific oils used for protecting, moisturizing and lubricating the skin. The word emollient is derived from the Latin word mollire, to soften. In general, emollients prevent evaporation of water from the skin by forming an occlusive coating. Alternatively, or additionally, the emollients improve the distribution of the product on the skin. Emollients can be divided into different groups depending on their polarity index.
The term “sensitive skin” refers to skin of which the natural barrier function is weakened and has broken due to a trigger. A trigger can be for example cold weather, extremely hot water and critical ingredients, which may be included in sunscreen or daily care compositions.
The term “sun protection factor (SPF)” as used herein indicates how well the skin is protected by a sunscreen composition mainly from UV-B radiation. In particular, the factor indicates how much longer the protected skin may be exposed to the sun without getting a sunburn in comparison to untreated skin. For example, if a sunscreen composition with an SPF of 15 is evenly applied to the skin of a person usually getting a sunburn after 10 minutes in the sun, the sunscreen allows the skilled person to stay in the sun 15 times longer. In other words, SPF 15 means that 1/15 of the burning UV radiation will reach the skin, assuming sunscreen is applied evenly at a thick dosage of 2 milligrams per square centimeter (mg/cm2).
The definition of “broadband” protection (also referred to as broad-spectrum or broad protection) may be based for example on the “critical wavelength” or the UVA-PF. For broadband coverage, UV-B and UV-A protection must be provided. According to the US requirements, a critical wavelength of at least 370 nm is required for achieving broad spectrum protection. Furthermore, it is recommended by the European Commission that all sunscreens or cosmetic compositions should have an UV-A protection factor, which is at least one third of the labelled sun protection factor (SPF), e.g. if the sunscreen composition has an SPF of 30 the UVA protection factor has to be at least 10.
The term “critical wavelength” is defined as the wavelength at which the area under the UV protection curve (% protection versus wavelength) represents 90 % of the total area under the curve in the UV region (290-400 nm). For example, a critical wavelength of 370 nm indicates that the protection of the sunscreen composition is not limited to the wavelengths of UV-B, i.e. wavelengths from 290-320 nm, but extends to 370 nm in such a way that 90 % of the total area under the protective curve in the UV region are reached at minimum at 370 nm.
The term “administration” refers to the application of a sunscreen or daily care composition to the skin of a person.
Within this invention, the term “rice starch” refers to oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) unless otherwise noted.
The term “natural” in “natural organic thickener” refers to a component that is derived fully or at least partially, preferably fully, from natural resources. A natural resource is any biological or mineral asset afforded by nature. Natural resources within the meaning of the invention comprise inter alia plants, forests, vegetation, surface water and groundwater, fertile lands, soil, and minerals. Natural resources within the meaning of the invention do not comprise products obtained from fossil resources such as from petroleum, natural gas, crude oil or coal. An alternative term for “natural” within this invention is the term “bio-based”. The terms are meant to
be used interchangeably within this invention. In case the term “natural” is used in a different context than in context with the “natural organic thickener”, the meaning of the term is the same as defined for “natural organic thickener” unless otherwise noted.
The term “organic” in “natural organic thickener” refers to an organic compound or organic compound mixture. An organic compound is any of a large class of chemical compounds in which one or more atoms of carbon are covalently linked to atoms of other elements, most commonly carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, or nitrogen. The few carbon-containing compounds not classified as organic include carbides, carbonates, and cyanides. In case the term “organic” is used in a different context than in context with the “natural organic thickener”, the meaning of the term is the same as defined for “natural organic thickener” unless otherwise noted.
The term “thickener” in “natural organic thickener” refers to a component that increases the viscosity of a mixture. A thickener may lead to an increase in the viscosity of a composition, for example, by binding liquid, in particular water, present in the composition. In some cases, a thickener might gel when in contact with water. In other cases, a thickener might not gel when in contact with water. The skilled person is aware of typical thickeners and the general properties of thickeners. The terms “thickener” and “thickening agent” are meant to be used interchangeably within this invention. In case the term “thickener” is used in a different context than in context with the “natural organic thickener”, the meaning of the term is the same as defined for “natural organic thickener” unless otherwise noted.
The term “synthetic thickener” refers to thickeners as defined above that are, however, derived from fossil resources, in particular from oil and gas through several reaction and processing steps. Synthetic thickeners are man-made by synthesis and processing. Types of synthetic thickeners are synthetic polymers and microplastics with thickening activity. Common synthetic thickeners are polyacrylates or homopolymers of reticulated acrylic acids or polyacrylamides such as carbomers, acrylate copolymers, acrylate I C10-C30-alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylate I beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, VP/eicosene copolymer, VP/hexadecen copolymer, and triacontanyl PVP. It is preferred that the inventive cosmetic composition is free of synthetic thickeners.
The term “microplastic” herein refers to small, solid particles made of a synthetic polymer. Some synthetic thickeners can be microplastics and vice versa. The solid particles of microplastics are often non-soluble in water and preferably have a particle size distribution Dv50 of less than 5 mm. Examples of microplastics used in cosmetic compositions in the art are styrene I PVP or styrene acrylamide copolymers, polyamide derivatives such as nylon-12; polymethyl methacrylates, and polyethylene. It is also preferred that the inventive cosmetic composition is free of microplastic.
The term “synthetic polymer material” herein refers to polymer material that is derived from fossil resources, in particular from oil and gas through several reaction and processing steps. The term “polymer material” herein refers to a material consisting of large molecules called macromolecules which are composed of repeating subunits chemically bonding to form long polymer chains. Polymer material is obtained via polymerization of many small molecules, which are known as monomers. Synthetic thickeners and microplastic are part of the group “synthetic polymer material”.
Statements made regarding components, features, or properties regarding the first aspect of the invention also apply equally to the other aspects of the present invention. Statements made regarding components, features, or properties regarding the second aspect of the invention also apply equally to the other aspects of the present invention. Statements made regarding components, features, or properties regarding the third aspect of the invention also apply equally to the other aspects of the present invention. Statements made regarding components, features, or properties regarding the fourth aspect of the invention also apply equally to the other aspects of the present invention.
Particular embodiments of the invention
The first aspect of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter. The combination of rice starch and at least one natural organic thickener in a cosmetic composition provides stability and structural integrity to a cosmetic composition for several weeks to months. The combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener increases the viscosity of the cosmetic composition and allows for the use of such a composition in many different fields of application within cosmetics. The combination of these two components results in an unexpected synergistic effect which is substantially greater than the effect of using either the oryza sativa starch or the at least one natural organic thickener by itself. In addition, a composition comprising oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener has a lower carbon footprint and an increased sustainability compared to compositions based on conventional stabilizing systems based on synthetic thickeners. The cosmetic composition can also exhibit a higher biodegradability than a composition based purely on components obtained from fossil resources and may be free of synthetic polymers and microplastic.
Generally, a broad range of different types of natural organic thickeners can be used in the present invention. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the natural organic thickener is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides, polypeptides, proteins and mixtures thereof. Polysaccharides, polypeptides, proteins and mixtures thereof have been found to be particularly well suited as natural organic thickeners in combination with oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch). In addition, polysaccharides, polypeptides, and proteins are readily found in nature and can be fully bio-based.
According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the natural organic thickener is a polysaccharide selected from the group consisting of natural gum, pectin, cellulose, chitin, callose, and mixtures thereof. Polysaccharides are readily available from nature, fully bio-based and effective at binding water. Natural gum, pectin, cellulose, chitin, callose, and mixtures thereof are polysaccharides commonly found in nature. Furthermore, these polysaccharides exhibit a good biodegradability and are particularly compatible with other typical cosmetic ingredients.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the natural organic thickener is a natural gum selected from the group consisting of agar, alginic acid/sodium alginate (algin), carrageenan, gum arabic, gum ghatti, gum tragacanth, karaya gum, locust bean gum, beta-glucan, dammar gum, glucomannan, psyllium seed husks, tara gum (Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum), gellan gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof. Natural gums have been found to be excellent thickening agents in combination with oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch). They are readily available and economical.
The most preferred type of natural organic thickener is a natural gum selected from the group of xanthan gum, tara gum (Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum), alginic acid/sodium alginate (algin) and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment of the invention, the natural organic thickener is xanthan gum. According to another embodiment of the invention, the natural organic thickener is tara gum. According to another embodiment of the invention, the natural organic thickener is alginic acid/sodium alginate (algin). Xanthan gum, tara gum and algin are excellent natural thickening agents that bind the other components of the cosmetic composition particularly effectively if combined with oryza sativa starch.
Oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) particles used in the present invention may be provided in different forms or shapes. According to one embodiment, the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) particles have a polygonal particle shape. The term “polygonal particle shape” herein means that at least 75% of the number of particles of a
sample of the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) have three or more vertices or corners, preferred four or more vertices or corners, even more preferred five or more vertices or corners, as identified by electron microscopy. Oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) particles with a polygonal particle shape are particularly well suited for providing excellent structural integrity for cosmetic compositions.
The oryza sativa starch (I NCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) used in the present invention may also have different particle size distributions. According to one preferred embodiment, the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) has a particle size distribution Dv50 determined by static laser scattering of from 2 to 10 pm, in particular from 6 to 8 pm. Oryza sativa starch with such a Dv50 value has been found to be particularly suited to provide optimal structural stability to a cosmetic composition.
The particle size distribution Dv50 of the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) is preferably determined by static laser scattering. In the present invention, Dv50 values were determined using static laser scattering with a Beckman coulter LS-13230 particle size analyzer universal liquid module with PI DS using a 2% suspension of rice starch in deionized water.
The oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) used in the inventive composition has the ability to bind liquids such as oil effectively. Preferably, the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) has an oil absorption capacity of 0.5 to 1 .0 g, preferably of 0.7 to 0.8 g oil per 1 .0 g starch. With such an oil absorption capacity of the oryza sative starch used, the cosmetic composition possesses a particularly high viscosity and structural integrity.
Methods to determine the oil absorption capacity of a starch are known in the art. The oil absorption capacity of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) may be determined by mixing a weight-in sample of oryza sativa starch with an excess oil in a weighted centrifuge tube to obtain a dispersion, centrifuging the dispersion, removing the supernatant completely, and then weighing the centrifuge tube comprising the starch and oil that was absorbed by the starch.
The amount of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) in the inventive cosmetic composition can be varied broadly depending on the relevant cosmetic application. A larger amount of oryza sativa starch may lead to a higher viscosity and thicker cosmetic composition, whereas a smaller amount of oryza sativa starch will generally result in a lower viscosity composition - all other components being equal. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amount of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) in the cosmetic composition is from 0.6 to 10.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The range of from 0.6 to 10.0 wt.% oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) is particularly well suited to obtain a cosmetic composition with excellent long-term stability. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amount of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) in the cosmetic composition is from 1.0 to 8.0 wt.%, more preferred from 1 .5 to 6.0 wt.%, and most preferred from 1 .5 to 4.0 wt.%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The inventive cosmetic composition comprises at least one natural organic thickener. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amount of natural organic thickener is at least 0.05 wt.%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It was discovered that an amount of natural organic thickener of from 0.08 to 3 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 2 wt.%, more preferably from 0.15 to 1 wt.%, and most preferred from 0.2 to 0.5 wt.%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, is particularly well suited for providing the structural integrity to the inventive cosmetic composition.
In the present invention, it was discovered that oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) combined with at least one natural organic thickener provides stable, sufficiently viscous, and homogenous cosmetic compositions. In general, the inventive cosmetic composition can also comprise further starches such as wheat, potato, maize, corn, tapioca, arrowroot, or manioc starch. However, according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition is free of starch that is not oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch). The term “free of starch that is not oryza sativa starch” herein means that the cosmetic composition preferably does not contain more than 0.1 wt.%, preferred not more than 0.05 wt.% and even more preferred not more than 0.01 wt.% of starches from other sources. It is advantageous to have only oryza sativa starch as starch component in the composition since other starch components may influence the rheological properties of the composition.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter. The presence of at least one organic or inorganic UV filter provides protection of the skin from dangerous UVA and UVB radiation.
It is preferred that the at least one organic or inorganic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of:
UVA absorbing filters
4-(tert.-butyl)-4 ’-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane),
hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (INCI diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate),
- [(3Z)-3-[[4-[(Z)-[7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-1 -(sulfomethyl)-3- bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanylidene]methyl]phenyl]methylidene]-7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-1- bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanyl]methanesulfonic acid (INCI terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid), disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate,
1 ,1'-(1 ,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]- methanone (INCI Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine),
- 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-2-cyano-2-[3-(3-methoxypropylamino)cyclohex-2-en-1 - ylidene]acetate (INCI methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate);
Broad spectrum (UVA+UVB) absorbing filters
- 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5 triazine (INCI bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazine),
- 2,2’-methylenebis[6-(2//-1 ,2,3-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(2,4,4-trimethylpentan-2- yl)phenol] (INCI methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol),
- 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl)oxy]-1-disiloxanyl]propyl]phenol (INCI drometrizole trisiloxane), phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine,
- Zinc oxide,
UVB absorbing filters
- 2-phenyl-1 H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid),
- Tris-biphenyl triazine,
- 4,4’,4”-(1 ,3,5-triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)tris-benzoic acid tris(2-ethylhexyl)ester (INCI ethylhexyl triazone),
(RS)-2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI ethylhexyl salicylate), Dimethicone diethyl benzalmalonate (INCI Polysilicone-15), diethylhexyl butamido triazone,
- Titanium dioxide, Cerium oxide; and mixtures thereof. These UV filters are commonly employed UV filters with excellent UV protection properties.
According to a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the at least one organic or inorganic UV filter is an organic UV filter selected from the group consisting of 4-(tert.-butyl)-4’- methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2- hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (I NCI diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), 2,4-bis-{[4-(2- ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5 triazine (INCI bisethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazine), 4,4’,4”-(1 ,3,5-triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)tris-benzoic acid tris(2-ethylhexyl)ester (INCI ethylhexyl triazone), and mixtures thereof. These UV filters absorb UV radiation particularly effectively and have a good ecological footprint.
In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one UV-A filter and at least one UV-B filter. It is further preferred that the cosmetic composition also comprises at least one broadband UV filter. The most preferred UV-A filter are hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (INCI diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) and/or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. The most preferred UV-B filter is 4, 4’, 4”- (1 ,3,5-triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)tris-benzoic acid tris(2-ethylhexyl)ester (INCI ethylhexyl triazone). The most preferred broadband UV filter is 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5 triazine (INCI bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazine). The combination of hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (INCI diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4- methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5 triazine (INCI bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazine), and 4,4’,4”-(1 ,3,5-triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)tris-benzoic acid tris(2-ethylhexyl)ester (INCI ethylhexyl triazone) is particularly preferred since it covers the entire UV absorption spectrum relevant to skin protection in a highly effective manner. However, combinations of other UV filters for optimal UV-A as well as UV-B protection are also possible.
According to another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition is free of all of the UV- filters 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate (INCI octocrylene), (RS)-2-ethylhexyl- (2E)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (INCI ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), and 3,3,5- trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate (INCI Homosalate). There is a growing concern that these UV filters may have negative health and/or environmental effects. Consequently, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition is free of these filters.
The inventive cosmetic composition preferably comprises additives, in particular selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, emollients, further viscosity regulators (thickeners), sensory enhancers, adjuvants, preservatives, perfumes and combinations thereof.
Preferred emulsifiers include
glucose derivatives such as cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, methyl glucose sesquistearate; sucrose derivative such as sucrose polystearate, sucrose palmitate; sorbitol derivatives; glycerides of fatty acids such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate; glumatic acid derivatives such as sodium stearoyl glutamate; sulfosuccinic acid derivatives such as disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate; phosphoric acid derivatives such as potassium cetyl phosphate; fatty acid esters of polyglyceryl such as polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2- d i po ly hyd roxystea rate ; oxyalkenylated organomodified silicone I polysiloxane I polyalkyl I polyether copolymers and derivatives.
Preferred emollients include esters of linear or branched fatty acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols such as propylheptyl caprylate, coco caprylate, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate; esters of aromatic carboxylic acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols such as C12-C15- alkyl benzoate, ethylhexyl benzoate, phenethyl benzoate; dicarboxylic acid esters with linear or branched alcohols such as dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate; esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols; esters of linear or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohol such as butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate; mono-, di-, tri-glycerides based on Ce-C fatty acids such as caprylic I capric triglycerides, coco glycerides; guerbet alcohols such as octyldodecynol; hydrocarbons such as hydrogenated polyisobutene, mineral oil, squalene, isohexadecane; ethers such as dicaprylyl ether; silicone derivatives (organomodified polysiloxanes) such as dimethylpolysiloxane, cyclic silicones.
Preferred thickeners include fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol; fatty acids such as stearic acid; fatty acid esters such as myristyl stearate; waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, ozocerite; silicate derivatives such as magnesium silicates;
cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropyl cellulose.
Preferred sensory enhancers include silica; mica; polymethylsilsesquioxane; starch derivatives such as aluminum starch octenylsuccinate; dimethicone derivatives; boron nitride;
HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer. perlite
Preferred Humectant include
1 ,2 pentadiol;
1 ,2 hexandiol;
1 ,2 octandiol;
1 ,2 decandiol;
2-Methyl-1 ,3-propandioL
Preferred adjuvants include tocopherol derivatives; retinol derivatives; ascorbic acid derivatives; bisabolol; allantoin; panthenol; chelating agents (EDTA, EDDS, EGTA, phytic acid, piroctone olamine); ethylhexyl glycerin; hydroxyacetophenone; caprylhydroxymic acid; propellants such as propane, butane, isobutene, dimethyl ether; insect repellants such as butylacetylaminopropionate.
Preferred preservatives include benzyl alcohol; zingerone.
Preferred perfumes are selected from the group consisting of limonene, citral, linalool, alpha- isomethylionon, geraniol, citronellol, 2-isobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyrane, 2-tert.- pentylcyclohexylacetate, 3-methyl-5-phenyl-1 -pentanol, 7-acetyl-1 ,1 ,3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetraline, adipine acid diester, alpha-amylcinnamaldehyde, alpha-methylionon, amyl C butylphenylmehtylpropionalcinnamal, amylsalicylate, amylcinnamylalcohol, anisalcohol, benzoin, benzylalcohol, benzyl benzoate, benzylcinnamate, benzylsalicylate, bergamot oil, bitter orange oil, butylphenylmethylpropioal, cardamom oil, cedrol, cinnamal, cinnamylalcohol, citronnellylmethylcrotonate, lemon oil, coumarin, diethylsuccinate, ethyllinalool, eugenol, evernia furfuracea extracte, evernia prunastri extracte, farensol, guajak wood oil, hexylcinnamal, hexylcalicylate, hydroxycitronellal, lavender oil, lemon oil, linaylacetate, mandarine oil, menthyl PCA, methylheptenone, nutmeg oil, rosemary oil, sweet orange oil, terpineol, tonka bean oil, triethylcitrate, vanillin and combinations thereof.
It is preferably that the inventive cosmetic composition comprises two or more of the additives described above. In connection with the above preferred embodiments, it is to be understood that if the cosmetic composition comprises two or more additives, combinations of any of the additives as defined above are also part of the invention.
In connection with the above preferred and particularly preferred embodiments, it is to be understood that the cosmetic composition may further comprise water.
In case water is present in the cosmetic composition it is to be understood that it is preferably present in an amount of more than 5 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Further, it is to be understood that in case water is present in the cosmetic composition, the cosmetic composition can be an oil in water emulsion (O/W emulsion), a water in oil emulsion (W/O emulsion), a gel cream or an oil in gel.
In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition can be provided in different forms, e.g. gels, creams, oils, lotions, sticks, or in the form of a sprayable product.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the inventive cosmetic composition is free of microplastic. According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the inventive cosmetic composition is free of synthetic thickener. It is more preferred that the inventive cosmetic composition is free of microplastic and free of synthetic thickener. The term “free of’ herein means that the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.%, preferably less than 0.001 wt.% and most preferred less than 0.0001 wt.% of microplastic or synthetic thickener, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The inventive cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% of synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.01wt.%, more preferred less than 0.001 wt.% and most preferred less than 0.0001 wt.% of synthetic polymer material, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The feature that the composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% of synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, includes the embodiment that the composition is free of synthetic polymer material. In fact, it is particularly preferred that the cosmetic composition is free of synthetic polymer material. The term synthetic polymer material comprises synthetic thickeners, microplastics and other synthetic polymers.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition is free of VP/eicosen copolymer, i.e. comprises less than 0.0001 wt.% of VP/eicosen copolymer, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition is free of VP/Hexadecen copolymer, i.e. comprises less than 0.0001 wt.% of VP/Hexadecen copolymer, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition is free of Triacontanyl PVP, i.e. comprises less than 0.0001 wt.% of Triacontanyl PVP, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The inventive cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter. In this context, it is further preferred that the cosmetic composition has a SPF (sun protection factor) value of minimum 6 up to 50+ (according to the EC recommendation). The SPF can exemplarily be determined by simulation calculation using BASF sunscreen simulator (https://sunscreensimulator.basf.com/) or in vivo or in vitro. A suitable in vitro method may be performed as follows:
SPF in vitro determination is based on the assessment of UV-transmittance through a thin film of sunscreen sample spread on roughened substrate - SB6 PMMA-plates (4-5pm roughness, area 4.8 x 4.8 cm) from Helioscreen, Creil, France. The sunscreen formulation to be tested was applied on the PM MA plate with an amount of 1.2mg/cm2. Three plates and 5 measurements per plate were done per formulation. The formulation was distributed manually as equal as possible on the plate. The plates applied with formulation were stored 30 minutes at room temperature and in a dark place prior the measurement.
In vitro transmission measurement were performed from 290-400 nm with 1 nm steps with the Labsphere UV Transmittance Analyzer UV 2000S. The UV transmission spectrum was acquired and the SPF in vitro values were calculated according to equation below (mean SPF of all 15 values (from the three plates and 5 measurements per plate))
where, ser(A) is the erythema action spectrum and S(A) is the spectral irradiance received from the UV source and T(A) is the in vitro measured light transmittance.
The present invention also relates to the use of a combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener for the stabilization of a cosmetic composition, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter. As was discussed with relation to the invention composition, the combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and a natural organic thickener provides for a stable, storable cosmetic composition without the need of any synthetic thickeners.
The disclosure regarding the cosmetic composition of the present invention also applies mutatis mutandis the use of a combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener for the stabilization of the cosmetic composition.
The invention also relates to the use of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener for increasing the viscosity of a cosmetic composition, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter. The use of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener results in an increased viscosity for a cosmetic composition compared to a cosmetic composition without the combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener.
The disclosure regarding the cosmetic composition of the present invention also applies mutatis mutandisXo the use of a combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener for increasing the viscosity of the cosmetic composition.
Furthermore, the invention relates to a method for preparing the inventive cosmetic composition by providing oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch), at least one natural organic thickener, and other ingredients for a cosmetic composition, mixing the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch), the at least one natural organic thickener and the other ingredients to obtain the cosmetic composition, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than
0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
The present invention is further illustrated by the following examples.
Examples
Compositions comprising the inventive combination of oryza sativa starch and at least one natural organic thickener as well as the comparative examples were prepared in the following way:
Parts A and B were first prepared separately and then each heated to 80 °C under stirring. Under increased stirring, part A was incorporated into part B and homogenized with Ultra Turrax. The mixture was then allowed to cool to room temperature (25 °C) while stirring. Next, part C was added to the mixture and the combined mixture was stirred. Finally, part D was added, and the resulting final mixture was stirred for another 30 minutes at room temperature. The pH value of the mixture was adjusted to be between 6.0 and 7.0 with citric acid.
The cosmetic compositions as shown in Table 1 were obtained. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise oryza sativa (Rice) starch and 0.30 wt.% of a natural organic thickener, i.e. tara gum, algin, and xanthan gum (inventive examples Inv. Ex. 1-3). The comparative cosmetic compositions are either free of oryza sativa starch (Comp. Ex. 1-3) or free of natural organic thickener (Comp. Ex. 4).
Table 1 : Cosmetic compositions according to the invention and comparative examples; DHHB = diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate; EHT = ethylhexyl triazone; BEMT = bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxylphenyl triazine; all values in wt.%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition
The formulations with algin require the addition of a divalent cation, here calcium chloride dihydrate, in order to activate the gel formation by creating a so-called “egg-box” structure Each formulation was filled into a 250mL glass bottle and the viscosity of the different compositions Inv. Ex. 1-3 and Comp. Ex. 1-4 was determined 24h after manufacture using a Brookfield DVI II . In addition, the stability of the different compositions was evaluated at room temperature after different times (24h, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months) by eye test. Table 2 shows the findings of the viscosity measurements and the macroscopic stability evaluation.
Table 2: Viscosity and stability data for the different compositions; n/a: not applicable, formulation unstable
The data in Table 2 shows that the inventive compositions display a substantially higher viscosity than the comparative compositions. Rice starch itself does not provide a sufficient thickening ability to obtain an acceptable viscosity for a topical cosmetic composition (viscosity Comp. Ex. 4 q = 112 mPa.s). In addition to this, the formulation showed phase separation within 2 months. Interestingly, adding rice starch to a composition that comprises a natural organic thickener increases the viscosity of all of the compositions studied by more than 2.5-fold. The inventive compositions comprising rice starch and a natural organic thickener exhibit excellent stability over one and three months without any phase separation occurring. In contrast,
comparative examples without rice starch (Comp. Ex. 1-3) show phase separation after storage over a certain period and/or sub-optimal viscosity properties.
The compositions of comparative example 3 and inventive example 3 which contain xanthan gum as natural organic thickener were both still stable after 3 months storage time although the viscosity of the inventive composition was almost three times higher than of the comparative composition. To mimic the effect of longer storage periods, an accelerated stability test was performed on the compositions of comparative example 3 and inventive example 3. A centrifugal assessment was used as accelerated stability test. For this purpose, 15 g of each formulation was transferred into centrifuge tubes. Centrifugation conditions were 10 minutes at 5000 rpm. The centrifuge used for the stability test was a Multifuge X1 R from Heraeus. After the centrifugation step, the two samples were analyzed for phase separation. In case of the inventive example 3, the formulation remained fully homogenous even after centrifugation. In contrast, for the formulation of comparative example 3, a clearly visible separation of phases was observed in the centrifuge tube after centrifugation. Therefore, a clear difference in stability could also be observed for the formulation of inventive example 3 in contrast to the comparative example 3 when conducting an accelerated stability test by centrifugal assessment.
The examples demonstrate that cosmetic compositions comprising oryza sative starch and at least one natural organic thickener exhibit excellent viscosity and stability properties.
Claims
1 . Cosmetic composition comprising oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the natural organic thickener is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides, polypeptides, proteins, and mixtures thereof.
3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2 characterized in that the natural organic thickener is a polysaccharide selected from the group consisting of natural gum, pectin, cellulose, chitin, callose, and mixtures thereof.
4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3 characterized in that the natural organic thickener is a natural gum selected from the group consisting of agar, alginic acid/sodium alginate (algin), carrageenan, gum arabic, gum ghatti, gum tragacanth, karaya gum, locust bean gum, beta-glucan, dammar gum, glucomannan, psyllium seed husks, tara gum (Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum), gellan gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof, in particular alginic acid/sodium alginate (algin), xanthan gum and tara gum (Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum).
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oryza sativa starch (I NCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) particles have a polygonal particle shape.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the oryza sativa starch (I NCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) has a particle size distribution Dv50 determined by static laser scattering of from 2.0 to 10.0 pm, in particular from 6.0 to 8.0 pm and/or the oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) has an oil absorption capacity of 0.5 to 1 .0 g, in particular from 0.7 to 0.8 g oil per 1 .0 g starch.
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the cosmetic composition is free of microplastic and/or the cosmetic composition is free of synthetic thickener.
8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the amount of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) in the cosmetic composition is from 0.6 to 10.0 wt.%, in particular from 1 .0 to 8.0 wt.%, from 1.5 to 6.0 wt.%, or from 1 .5 to 4.0 wt.%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition
and/or the amount of natural organic thickener is at least 0.05 wt.%, in particular from 0.05 to 5.0 wt.%, from 0.08 to 3.0 wt.%, from 0.1 to 2.0 wt.%, from 0.15 to 1.0 wt.%, or from 0.2 to 0.5 wt.%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the cosmetic composition is free of starch that is not oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch).
10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the at least one organic or inorganic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of
- 4-(tert.-butyl)-4 ’-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (INCI diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate),
- 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5 triazine (INCI bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazine),
- 2-phenyl-1 H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid),
- Tris-biphenyl triazine,
1 ,1'-(1 ,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]- methanone (INCI Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine),, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine,
- 2,2’-methylenebis[6-(2//-1 ,2,3-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(2,4,4-trimethylpentan-2- yl)phenol] (INCI methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol),,
- [(3Z)-3-[[4-[(Z)-[7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-1 -(sulfomethyl)-3- bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanylidene]methyl]phenyl]methylidene]-7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-1- bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanyl]methanesulfonic acid (INCI terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid), disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate,
- 4,4’,4”-(1 ,3,5-triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)tris-benzoic acid tris(2-ethylhexyl)ester (INCI ethylhexyl triazone),
(RS)-2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI ethylhexyl salicylate), dimethicone diethyl benzalmalonate (INCI polysilicone-15), diethylhexyl butamido triazone,
- 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-2-cyano-2-[3-(3-methoxypropylamino)cyclohex-2-en-1 - ylidene]acetate (INCI methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate),
- 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl)oxy]-1-disiloxanyl]propyl]phenol (INCI drometrizole trisiloxane),
Titanium dioxide,
Zinc oxide,
Cerium oxide, and mixtures thereof.
11 . Cosmetic composition according to claim 10 characterized in that the at least one organic or inorganic UV filter is an organic UV filter selected from the group consisting of hexyl 2- [4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate (INCI diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]- phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5 triazine (INCI bis-ethylhexyloxyphenyl methoxyphenyl triazine), 4 ,4’,4”-(1 ,3,5-triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)tris-benzoic acid tris(2-ethylhexyl)ester (INCI ethylhexyl triazone), and mixtures thereof.
12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the cosmetic composition is free of all of the UV-filters 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl- 2-propenoate (INCI octocrylene), (RS)-2-ethylhexyl-(2E)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2- enoate (INCI ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), and 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate (INCI Homosalate).
13. Use of a combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener for the stabilization of a cosmetic composition, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
14. Use of a combination of oryza sativa starch (INCI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch) and at least one natural organic thickener for increasing the viscosity of a cosmetic composition, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises less than 0.1 wt.% synthetic polymer material, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition and wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one organic or inorganic UV filter.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP23161096 | 2023-03-10 | ||
| PCT/EP2024/055988 WO2024188795A1 (en) | 2023-03-10 | 2024-03-07 | Natural cosmetic composition |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP4676432A1 true EP4676432A1 (en) | 2026-01-14 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP24709739.7A Pending EP4676432A1 (en) | 2023-03-10 | 2024-03-07 | Natural cosmetic composition |
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|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP4676432A1 (en) |
| JP (1) | JP2026508902A (en) |
| KR (1) | KR20250156784A (en) |
| CN (1) | CN120882402A (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2024188795A1 (en) |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE102007021480A1 (en) * | 2007-04-27 | 2008-11-06 | Beiersdorf Ag | Cosmetic formulation comprises glyceryl stearate citrate, one or multiple polysorbates, oil component, electrolyte and light protection filter |
| FR3115986B1 (en) * | 2020-11-12 | 2023-04-07 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | NEW SOLUBILIZING SYSTEM OF FAT-SOLUBLE ORGANIC SUN FILTERS |
-
2024
- 2024-03-07 JP JP2025552127A patent/JP2026508902A/en active Pending
- 2024-03-07 CN CN202480017886.2A patent/CN120882402A/en active Pending
- 2024-03-07 KR KR1020257032823A patent/KR20250156784A/en active Pending
- 2024-03-07 EP EP24709739.7A patent/EP4676432A1/en active Pending
- 2024-03-07 WO PCT/EP2024/055988 patent/WO2024188795A1/en not_active Ceased
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| KR20250156784A (en) | 2025-11-03 |
| WO2024188795A1 (en) | 2024-09-19 |
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| CN120882402A (en) | 2025-10-31 |
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