EP4267092A1 - Novel composition for curling hair or curling eyelashes - Google Patents

Novel composition for curling hair or curling eyelashes

Info

Publication number
EP4267092A1
EP4267092A1 EP21848014.3A EP21848014A EP4267092A1 EP 4267092 A1 EP4267092 A1 EP 4267092A1 EP 21848014 A EP21848014 A EP 21848014A EP 4267092 A1 EP4267092 A1 EP 4267092A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
oil
protein
hair
composition according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21848014.3A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Sébastien Frédéric VISCOGLIOSI
Isabel Garcia
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Di Visco
Original Assignee
Di Visco
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Di Visco filed Critical Di Visco
Publication of EP4267092A1 publication Critical patent/EP4267092A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/04Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair chemical
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/447Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof containing sulfur
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882Mixing prior to application
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884Sequential application

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a new composition for curling the hair or curling the eyelashes comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol, a vegetable oil and at least one organic acid; as well as a method for curling hair or a method for curling eyelashes using said composition.
  • curling the hair corresponds to a hairdressing technique making it possible to curl the hair temporarily or over a longer period.
  • Heat treatments consist of rolling and holding each lock of hair for ten to fifteen seconds on a cylindrical iron heated to a temperature ranging from 160°C to 230°C.
  • the mechanical and thermal treatments are thus generally preceded by “chemical” treatments of the hair by particular compositions.
  • the commonly used technique consists, in a first step, in carrying out the opening of the disulphide bonds -SS- of the keratin (keratocystin) using a generally basic composition containing a sulfur reducing agent (reduction step) then, after generally rinsing the hair thus treated with water, in secondly reconstituting said disulphide bonds by applying to the hair previously put under tension, an oxidizing composition (oxidation step, also called fixing) so as to finally give the hair the desired shape.
  • oxidizing composition oxidation step, also called fixing
  • compositions used are generally alkaline or weakly acidic compositions based on thiolated or ammoniated reducing agents. Although the curl effect finally obtained is generally long-lasting, these compositions require strict compliance with the application conditions recommended by the suppliers, in particular in terms of quantity of product and of the break time. In addition, they are contraindicated on fragile hair and sensitive scalps due to the highly corrosive effect of these compositions. Problems of broken or even burned hair and irritated scalps are regularly observed. Finally, these compositions are malodorous.
  • composition similar to that described in patent application WO-A-2019/012219 to which a certain proportion of one or more organic acid(s) is added made it possible to curl the hair effectively and durably, according to an application method that is easy to implement, while preserving the quality of the hair.
  • the composition can also be used to curl the eyelashes effectively and durably, according to an application method that is easy to implement, while preserving the quality of the eyelashes.
  • composition for curling the hair or curling the eyelashes comprising:
  • composition according to the present invention makes it possible to curl the hair effectively and durably, according to an application method that is easy and comfortable to implement while preserving the quality of the hair, in particular due to the absence of thermal tools and thiolated and/or ammonia reducing agents. Furthermore, the composition can also be used to curl the eyelashes effectively and durably, according to an application method that is easy to implement, while preserving the quality of the eyelashes.
  • “Curling the hair” means any treatment making it possible to curl straight hair in order to give it a spiral or S-shape or to give it an apparent wavy surface;
  • “Curling the eyelashes” means any treatment making it possible to round the eyelashes in order to give them a more curved shape than their natural shape (ie before treatment);
  • the term “amino acid” means any amino acid known to a person skilled in the art, in particular the amino acids of general formula (I) or (II) below: in which
  • R represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Cs-alkyl group optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, amino; -C(O)-OH; -S(O) 2 -OH; -C(O)-O', M+; -S(O) 2 -Q-, M+;
  • M+ representing a cationic counter ion such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium
  • n is 0 or 1; as well as their betaine forms; their optical isomers; their solvates such as hydrates; and their salts, acid or base, organic or inorganic; said amino acids possibly being grafted onto a heteromolecule possibly being a silicone, a carbohydrate compound, a fatty acid or derivative, a surfactant of an anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric character;
  • oleaginous plant means any fatty substance extracted by any process of press preparation, centrifugation, esterification or saponification of an oleaginous plant, that is to say a plant whose seeds, nuts or fruits contain lipids, triglycerides or oleic, stearic or linoleic acids, which may optionally be grafted onto a heteromolecule such as a silicone or a surfactant of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric character;
  • protein means any protein, heteroprotein or protein derivative such as a protein grafted onto a molecule, or a heteromolecule which may be a silicone, a carbohydrate compound, an organic compound, a fatty acid or derivative, a chromophore, a surfactant of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric nature, of variable size and shape, formed of one or more chain(s) charged with amino acids and connected by peptide bonds.
  • the protein is of tertiary or quaternary structure;
  • C x -Cy-alkyl is understood to mean a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, and comprising from x to y carbon atoms;
  • Alcohol means any linear or branched carbon chain containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms substituted by a hydroxyl group, an aminoalcohol, an aldol or a ketol.
  • alcohol denotes any linear or branched compound of the form C n H2n+iOH in which n is an integer between 1 and 10;
  • organic acid means any chemical or organic compound, consisting of an acid, polyacid (in particular diacid), hydracid and/or oxacid function due to the presence of a carboxyl group (-COOH), hydroxyl (-OH ) or enol, and capable of releasing one or more cations in an aqueous medium, as well as their organic or mineral salts; and
  • polyol is understood to mean any Ci-Cw-alkyl group substituted by at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • polyol means any compound chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol or sorbitol.
  • composition according to the present invention therefore contains an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol, a vegetable oil and at least 1% (w/w) of at least one amino acid.
  • the subject of the present invention is a composition as described above having the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:
  • the amino acid is chosen from lysine, taurine or a proteinogenic amino acid or one of its salts, acid or base, organic or inorganic.
  • the amino acid is chosen as being a proteinogenic amino acid or one of its salts, acid or base, organic or inorganic.
  • the amino acid is chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, leucine, isoleucine, methionine, N- phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, glycine, alanine, serine, beta alanine and arginine or one of their salts, acid or basic, organic or mineral.
  • the amino acid is chosen from glutamic acid, cysteine and arginine;
  • composition contains from 0.1% to 20% of amino acid as defined above, preferably from 0.1% to 5% of amino acid as defined above, more preferably from 0.1% to 3 % of amino acid as defined above;
  • the protein is chosen from optionally hydrolyzed creatine, optionally hydrolyzed wheat protein, optionally hydrolyzed silk protein, optionally hydrolyzed spiruhne, optionally hydrolyzed vegetable keratin, optionally hydrolyzed soy protein, optionally hydrolyzed collagen, optionally hydrolyzed elastin, optionally hydrolyzed pea protein, optionally hydrolyzed rice protein, optionally hydrolyzed conchiolin protein and optionally hydrolyzed whey protein.
  • the protein is chosen from creatine, optionally hydrolyzed spirulina protein, optionally hydrolyzed wheat protein, optionally hydrolyzed silk protein and optionally hydrolyzed soy protein;
  • composition contains from 0.1% to 20% of protein as defined above, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% of protein as defined above, quite preferably from 0.1% to 5 % protein as previously defined;
  • the alcohol is chosen from ethanol, butanol, isopropanol and benzyl alcohol. More preferably, the alcohol is chosen as being ethanol or benzyl alcohol;
  • composition contains from 0.5% to 20% alcohol as defined above, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% alcohol as defined above, most preferably 0.5% 4% alcohol as defined above;
  • the vegetable oil contains at least 1% linolenic acid or carboxylic acid.
  • the vegetable oil is chosen from sweet almond oil, soybean oil, argan oil, Haarlem oil, Babassu oil, broccoli oil , avocado oil, linseed oil, apricot oil, cucumber oil, nigella oil, Brazil nut oil, grapeseed oil, l shea olein, sesame oil and tomato oil.
  • the vegetable oil is chosen as being soybean oil or shea olein;
  • composition contains from 0.1% to 10% of vegetable oil as defined above, more preferably from 0.1% to 6% of vegetable oil as defined above, most preferably from 0, 1% to 4% vegetable oil as defined previously;
  • the organic acid is a diacid.
  • the organic acid is a diacid with antioxidant properties. More preferably, the organic acid is chosen from formic acid, acetic acid, sulphonic acid, carboxylic acid, salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, ascorbic acid, ascorbate of sodium, ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate. More preferably, the organic acid is chosen from ascorbic acid, salicylic acid and ammonium persulphate. Most preferably, the organic acid is chosen as being ascorbic acid;
  • the composition comprises at least two organic acids.
  • the composition comprises at least two organic acids chosen as diacids. More preferably, the composition comprises at least two organic acids chosen as diacids possessing antioxidant properties. More preferably, the composition comprises at least two organic acids chosen from formic acid, acetic acid, sulphonic acid, carboxylic acid, salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate.
  • the composition comprises ascorbic acid and at least one organic acid chosen from formic acid, acetic acid, sulphonic acid, carboxylic acid, salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate.
  • the composition comprises ascorbic acid and at least one organic acid chosen from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid and ammonium persulphate.
  • the composition contains from 1% to 20% of organic acid as defined previously; more preferably from 1.5% to 15% of organic acid as defined previously; most preferably from 3% to 10% organic acid as defined above; and or
  • composition additionally contains a polyol.
  • composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cream, a gel, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a hair lotion or a shampoo.
  • the composition according to the invention is in the form of a hair cream or lotion.
  • composition according to the invention may be in the form of a single composition or in the form of a kit comprising two, three or four separate compositions each containing one or more of the ingredients of the composition according to the present invention.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a kit useful for preparing a composition for curling the hair as defined previously, said comprising:
  • compositions containing at least an organic acid as defined above and optionally an amino acid, an alcohol and/or a vegetable oil as defined above a composition containing at least an organic acid as defined above and optionally an amino acid, an alcohol and/or a vegetable oil as defined above.
  • the composition according to the present invention whether it is in the form of a kit or not, can be applied according to any method known to those skilled in the art.
  • composition according to the present invention when it is used to curl the hair, is preferably applied according to the method comprising the following steps:
  • composition according to the invention directly to dry or damp hair
  • the method according to the present invention can also be supplemented by:
  • the method according to the present invention can be easily implemented and makes it possible to curl the hair effectively and durably, without the use of a curling iron or of thiolated and/or ammonia-containing reducers, thus preserving the quality of the hair.
  • composition according to the present invention when it is used to curl the eyelashes, is preferably applied according to the method comprising the following steps:
  • the process according to the present invention can be easily implemented and makes it possible to curl the eyelashes in an effective and lasting manner, without the use of hydrogen peroxide or thiolated and/or ammonia reducing agents or thiolated and/or ammonia reducing agents, preserving thus the quality of the eyelashes.
  • a ready-to-use cream comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol, a vegetable oil and two organic acids, the composition of which is reported in the following Table 1, is prepared.
  • Example 1 The curling cream described in Example 1 above is used to curl fragile hair, weakened by repeated thiolated perm attempts ( Figure 1).
  • composition according to the invention is carried out according to the following protocol.
  • Step 1 Apply shampoo directly to damp hair
  • composition according to the invention is applied to all of the damp hair and distributed with a comb.
  • Step 2 Winding on curlers
  • the hair thus treated is then rolled up in the conventional manner on traditional curlers and then the product is left for 20 minutes in cellophane and under a climazon helmet.
  • Step 3 Drying and unrolling
  • the hair is then dried in hot air with a blow dryer.
  • the curlers are then removed.
  • the hair is then left to cool and the hair is rinsed with water, then two successive shampoos are carried out using a shampoo if necessary.
  • the hair is hot air dried with a blow dryer or styled with a brush.
  • a ready-to-use cream comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol, a vegetable oil and an organic acid, the composition of which is reported in the following Table 2, is prepared.
  • composition according to the invention is carried out according to the following protocol.
  • Step 1 Application of a neutral shampoo to cleanse the hair.
  • composition according to the invention is applied to all of the damp hair and distributed with a comb.
  • Step 2 Winding on curlers
  • the hair thus treated is then rolled up in the conventional manner on traditional curlers and then the product is left for 20 minutes in cellophane and under a climazon helmet.
  • Step 3 Drying and unrolling
  • the hair is then dried in hot air with a blow dryer.
  • the curlers are then removed.
  • a ready-to-use cream comprising an amino acid, protein, alcohol and vegetable oil but containing less than 1% organic acid is prepared. Its composition is reported in Table 3 below.
  • This composition corresponds to the smoothing composition described in application WO-A-2019/012219.
  • Step 1 Apply shampoo directly to damp hair
  • composition according to the invention is applied to all of the damp hair and distributed with a comb.
  • Step 2 Winding on curlers
  • the hair thus treated is then rolled up in the conventional manner on traditional curlers (FIG. 8) then the product is left for 20 minutes in cellophane and under a climazon helmet.
  • Step 3 Drying and unrolling The hair is then dried in hot air with a dryer. The curlers are then removed.
  • the hair is then left to cool and the hair is rinsed with water, then two successive shampoos are carried out using a shampoo if necessary.
  • the hair is dried naturally at room temperature.
  • the smoothing composition described in application WO-A-20219/012219 therefore does not make it possible to curl the hair to which it is applied.
  • composition according to the invention is carried out according to the following protocol.
  • Step 1 Cleaning the eyelashes
  • the eyelashes are with a suitable lotion then a curler or an adhesive pad is placed on the upper eyelid
  • Step 2 Curvature of the eyelash
  • the composition according to the invention is applied to the fringe of the eyelashes using a brush or a stump and then the product is left for between 5 and 30 minutes in cellophane.
  • the product is rinsed with a damp cotton ball and then the pad or curler is peeled off.
  • a curved ciliary fringe is obtained with a denser appearance, without any trace of sensitization (Figure 11).
  • the observed lifespan for this curvature is four weeks.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a novel composition for curling hair or curling eyelashes, comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol, a vegetable oil and at least one organic acid; and a method for curling hair or a method for curling eyelashes using said composition.

Description

NOUVELLE COMPOSITION POUR BOUCLER LES CHEVEUX OU RECOURBER LES CILS NEW COMPOSITION FOR CURLING HAIR OR CURLING EYELASHES
La présente invention a pour objet une nouvelle composition permettant de boucler les cheveux ou recourber les cils comprenant un acide aminé, une protéine, un alcool, une huile végétale et au moins un acide organique ; ainsi qu’un procédé pour boucler des cheveux ou un procédé pour recourber les cils mettant en oeuvre ladite composition. The present invention relates to a new composition for curling the hair or curling the eyelashes comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol, a vegetable oil and at least one organic acid; as well as a method for curling hair or a method for curling eyelashes using said composition.
Dans le domaine capillaire, le fait de boucler les cheveux correspond à une technique de coiffure permettant de boucler les cheveux de façon temporaire ou sur une plus longue durée. In the hair sector, curling the hair corresponds to a hairdressing technique making it possible to curl the hair temporarily or over a longer period.
Les consommateurs souhaitant boucler leurs cheveux cherchent non seulement à obtenir une chevelure bouclée présentant une bonne tenue, mais également à obtenir un résultat qui soit durable dans le temps en résistant notamment aux shampooings subséquents. Consumers wishing to curl their hair seek not only to obtain curly hair with good staying power, but also to obtain a result that is durable over time, in particular by resisting subsequent shampoos.
Pour modifier la forme de la chevelure de façon durable, on utilise généralement des traitements mécaniques et/ou thermiques. To modify the shape of the hair in a lasting manner, mechanical and/or thermal treatments are generally used.
Les traitements mécaniques consistent à donner aux cheveux mouillés la forme qu’ils garderont une fois secs en les enroulant sur des outils cylindriques tels que des brosses rondes ou des bigoudis en attendant qu’ils sèchent. Mechanical treatments consist of giving wet hair the shape it will keep when dry by rolling it over cylindrical tools such as round brushes or curlers while waiting for it to dry.
Les traitements thermiques consistent quant à eux à enrouler et maintenir chaque mèche de cheveu durant dix à quinze secondes, sur un fer cylindrique chauffant à une température allant de 160°C à 230°C. Heat treatments consist of rolling and holding each lock of hair for ten to fifteen seconds on a cylindrical iron heated to a temperature ranging from 160°C to 230°C.
Ces traitements permettent une modification visuelle de l'aspect de la coiffure, tant en termes de formes qu’en termes de volume global de la chevelure. Ils permettent d’aboutir à un aspect visuel bouclé, un gain substantiel de brillance, une résistance à l'humidité et à la chaleur pour un maintien de la coiffure toute la journée. These treatments allow a visual modification of the appearance of the hairstyle, both in terms of shape and in terms of the overall volume of the hair. They make it possible to achieve a curly visual appearance, a substantial gain in shine, resistance to humidity and heat for maintaining the hairstyle all day long.
Toutefois, ces procédés présentent une efficacité très limitée puisque la tenue des boucles varie de quelques heures à quelques jours seulement, et l’utilisation d’outils chauffant à température élevée entraîne des dommages irréversibles sur les cheveux. However, these processes have very limited effectiveness since the hold of the curls varies from a few hours to a few days only, and the use of heating tools at high temperatures causes irreversible damage to the hair.
Afin de prolonger leur effet, les traitements mécaniques et thermiques sont ainsi généralement précédés de traitements « chimiques » de la chevelure par des compositions particulières. Pour obtenir le bouclage des cheveux, la technique communément employee consiste, dans un premier temps, à réaliser l'ouverture des liaisons disulfures -S-S- de la kératine (kératocystine) à l'aide d'une composition généralement basique contenant un agent réducteur soufré (étape de réduction) puis, après avoir généralement rincé la chevelure ainsi traitée à l'eau, à reconstituer dans un second temps lesdites liaisons disulfures en appliquant sur les cheveux préalablement mis sous tension, une composition oxydante (étape d'oxydation, dite aussi de fixation) de façon à donner finalement aux cheveux la forme recherchée. Les compositions utilisées sont généralement des compositions alcalines ou faiblement acides à base de réducteurs thiolés ou ammoniaqués. Si l’effet boucle finalement obtenu est généralement durable dans le temps, ces compositions nécessitent un respect rigoureux des conditions d'application préconisées par les fournisseurs, notamment en termes de quantité de produit et de temps de pause. En outre, elles sont contre-indiquées sur des cheveux fragiles et des cuirs chevelus sensibles en raison de l’effet fortement corrosif de ces compositions. Des problèmes de cheveux cassés voire brûlés et de cuirs chevelus irrités sont régulièrement observés. Enfin, ces compositions sont malodorantes. In order to prolong their effect, the mechanical and thermal treatments are thus generally preceded by “chemical” treatments of the hair by particular compositions. To obtain the curling of the hair, the commonly used technique consists, in a first step, in carrying out the opening of the disulphide bonds -SS- of the keratin (keratocystin) using a generally basic composition containing a sulfur reducing agent (reduction step) then, after generally rinsing the hair thus treated with water, in secondly reconstituting said disulphide bonds by applying to the hair previously put under tension, an oxidizing composition (oxidation step, also called fixing) so as to finally give the hair the desired shape. The compositions used are generally alkaline or weakly acidic compositions based on thiolated or ammoniated reducing agents. Although the curl effect finally obtained is generally long-lasting, these compositions require strict compliance with the application conditions recommended by the suppliers, in particular in terms of quantity of product and of the break time. In addition, they are contraindicated on fragile hair and sensitive scalps due to the highly corrosive effect of these compositions. Problems of broken or even burned hair and irritated scalps are regularly observed. Finally, these compositions are malodorous.
Ainsi, à la date de la présente invention, il demeure nécessaire de mettre au point une composition permettant de boucler les cheveux de manière efficace et durable, dans des conditions d’application aisées, sans détériorer la qualité des cheveux. Thus, at the date of the present invention, it remains necessary to develop a composition making it possible to curl the hair effectively and durably, under easy application conditions, without deteriorating the quality of the hair.
La demande de brevet internationale WO-A-2019/012219 décrit une composition permettant un lissage des cheveux efficace et durable, selon un procédé d’application aisé à mettre en oeuvre tout en préservant la qualité des cheveux, ladite composition comprenant un acide aminé, une protéine, un alcool et une huile végétale. L’effet lissant est obtenu grâce à un processus de dénaturation modéré et réversible de la fibre qui lui permet de garder un aspect raide et lisse avec une résistance aux shampooings subséquents pour une durée de plusieurs mois tout en préservant l’intégrité de la fibre. Ce processus de dénaturation est insuffisant pour une utilisation visant à boucler les cheveux. Or, il a maintenant été trouvé de façon tout à fait surprenante qu’une composition similaire à celle décrite dans la demande de brevet WO-A-2019/012219 à laquelle on ajoute une certaine proportion d’un ou plusieurs acide(s) organiques permettait de boucler les cheveux de façon efficace et durable, selon un procédé d’application aisé à mettre en oeuvre, tout en préservant la qualité des cheveux. Par ailleurs, la composition peut également être utilisée pour recourber les cils de façon efficace et durable, selon un procédé d’application aisé à mettre en oeuvre, tout en préservant la qualité des cils. International patent application WO-A-2019/012219 describes a composition allowing effective and lasting hair straightening, according to an application method that is easy to implement while preserving the quality of the hair, said composition comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol and a vegetable oil. The smoothing effect is obtained thanks to a process of moderate and reversible denaturation of the fiber which allows it to keep a stiff and smooth appearance with resistance to subsequent shampoos for a period of several months while preserving the integrity of the fiber. This denaturing process is insufficient for use in curling hair. However, it has now been found quite surprisingly that a composition similar to that described in patent application WO-A-2019/012219 to which a certain proportion of one or more organic acid(s) is added made it possible to curl the hair effectively and durably, according to an application method that is easy to implement, while preserving the quality of the hair. Furthermore, the composition can also be used to curl the eyelashes effectively and durably, according to an application method that is easy to implement, while preserving the quality of the eyelashes.
La présente invention a donc pour objet une composition pour boucler les cheveux ou recourber les cils comprenant : The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition for curling the hair or curling the eyelashes comprising:
- un acide aminé ; - an amino acid;
- une protéine ; - a protein;
- un alcool ; - an alcohol;
- une huile végétale ; et - a vegetable oil; and
- au moins 1% (p/p) d’au moins un acide organique ou l’un de ses sels organiques ou minéraux. - at least 1% (w/w) of at least one organic acid or one of its organic or mineral salts.
La composition selon la présente invention permet de boucler les cheveux de manière efficace et durable, selon un procédé d’application aisé et confortable à mettre en oeuvre tout en préservant la qualité des cheveux, notamment du fait de l’absence d’outils thermiques et de réducteurs thiolés et/ou ammoniaqué. Par ailleurs, la composition peut également être utilisée pour recourber les cils de façon efficace et durable, selon un procédé d’application aisé à mettre en oeuvre, tout en préservant la qualité des cils. The composition according to the present invention makes it possible to curl the hair effectively and durably, according to an application method that is easy and comfortable to implement while preserving the quality of the hair, in particular due to the absence of thermal tools and thiolated and/or ammonia reducing agents. Furthermore, the composition can also be used to curl the eyelashes effectively and durably, according to an application method that is easy to implement, while preserving the quality of the eyelashes.
Dans le cadre de la présente invention : In the context of the present invention:
- on entend par « boucler les cheveux » tout traitement permettant de boucler des cheveux raides afin de leur donner une forme en spirale ou en S ou de leur donner une surface apparente ondulée ; - “Curling the hair” means any treatment making it possible to curl straight hair in order to give it a spiral or S-shape or to give it an apparent wavy surface;
- on entend par « recourber les cils » tout traitement permettant d’arrondir les cils afin de leur donner une forme plus courbée que leur forme naturelle (i.e. avant traitement) ; - on entend par « acide amine » tout acide amine connu de I homme du metier, en particulier les acides aminés de formule générale (I) ou (II) suivante : dans laquelle - “Curling the eyelashes” means any treatment making it possible to round the eyelashes in order to give them a more curved shape than their natural shape (ie before treatment); - the term “amino acid” means any amino acid known to a person skilled in the art, in particular the amino acids of general formula (I) or (II) below: in which
• R représente un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe C-i-Cs-alkyle éventuellement substitué par au moins un groupement choisi parmi hydroxyle, amino ; -C(O)- OH ; -S(O)2-OH ; -C(O)-O’, M+ ; -S(O)2-Q-, M+ ; • R represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Cs-alkyl group optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, amino; -C(O)-OH; -S(O) 2 -OH; -C(O)-O', M+; -S(O) 2 -Q-, M+;
• M+ représentant un contre ion cationique tel que métal alcalin, alcalino- terreux, ou ammonium ; • M+ representing a cationic counter ion such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium;
• n vaut 0 ou 1 ; ainsi que leurs formes bétaïnes ; leurs isomères optiques ; leurs solvates tels que les hydrates ; et leurs sels, d'acide ou de base, organiques ou minéraux ; lesdits acides aminés pouvant éventuellement être greffés sur une hétéromolécule pouvant être un silicone, un composé glucidique, un acide gras ou dérivé, un tensio- actif de caractère anionique, cationique , non-ionique ou amphotère ; • n is 0 or 1; as well as their betaine forms; their optical isomers; their solvates such as hydrates; and their salts, acid or base, organic or inorganic; said amino acids possibly being grafted onto a heteromolecule possibly being a silicone, a carbohydrate compound, a fatty acid or derivative, a surfactant of an anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric character;
- on entend par « huile végétale » tout corps gras extrait par tout procédé de préparation de presse, de centrifugation, d’estérification ou de saponification d'une plante oléagineuse, c'est-à-dire une plante dont les graines, noix ou fruits contiennent des lipides, des triglycérides ou des acides oléique, stéarique ou linoléique, pouvant éventuellement être greffés sur une hétéromolécule telle qu’un silicone ou un tensio- actif de caractère anionique, cationique, non ionique ou amphotère ; - "vegetable oil" means any fatty substance extracted by any process of press preparation, centrifugation, esterification or saponification of an oleaginous plant, that is to say a plant whose seeds, nuts or fruits contain lipids, triglycerides or oleic, stearic or linoleic acids, which may optionally be grafted onto a heteromolecule such as a silicone or a surfactant of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric character;
- on entend par « protéine » toute protéine, hétéroprotéine ou dérivé protéique tel qu’une protéine greffée sur une molécule, ou une hétéromolécule pouvant être un silicone, un composé glucidique, un composé organique, un acide gras ou dérivé, un chromophore, un tensio-actif de caractère anionique, cationique, non-ionique ou amphotère, de taille et de forme variable, formée d’une ou plusieurs chaîne(s) chargée(s) en acides aminés et reliée(s) par des liaisons peptidiques. De préférence, la protéine est de structure tertiaire ou quaternaire ; - "protein" means any protein, heteroprotein or protein derivative such as a protein grafted onto a molecule, or a heteromolecule which may be a silicone, a carbohydrate compound, an organic compound, a fatty acid or derivative, a chromophore, a surfactant of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric nature, of variable size and shape, formed of one or more chain(s) charged with amino acids and connected by peptide bonds. Preferably, the protein is of tertiary or quaternary structure;
- on entend par « Cx-Cy-alkyle », une chaîne hydrocarbonée saturée, linéaire ou ramifiée, et comportant de x à y atomes de carbone ; - on entend par « alcool » toute chaîne carbonée linéaire ou ramifiée contenant de 1 a 10 atomes de carbone substituée par un groupement hydroxyle, un aminoalcool, un aldol ou un cétol. De préférence, « alcool » désigne tout composé linéaire ou ramifié de formue CnH2n+iOH dans laquelle n est un entier compris entre 1 et 10 ; - “C x -Cy-alkyl” is understood to mean a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, and comprising from x to y carbon atoms; - “Alcohol” means any linear or branched carbon chain containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms substituted by a hydroxyl group, an aminoalcohol, an aldol or a ketol. Preferably, “alcohol” denotes any linear or branched compound of the form C n H2n+iOH in which n is an integer between 1 and 10;
-on entend par « acide organique » tout composé chimique ou organique, constitué d’une fonction acide, polyacide (notamment diacide), hydracide et/ou oxacide due à la présence d’un groupe carboxyle (-COOH), hydroxyle (-OH) ou énol, et capable de libérer un ou plusieurs cations en milieu aqueux, ainsi que leurs sels organiques ou minéraux ; et - the term "organic acid" means any chemical or organic compound, consisting of an acid, polyacid (in particular diacid), hydracid and/or oxacid function due to the presence of a carboxyl group (-COOH), hydroxyl (-OH ) or enol, and capable of releasing one or more cations in an aqueous medium, as well as their organic or mineral salts; and
- on entend par « polyol » tout groupe Ci-Cw-alkyle substitué par au moins deux groupes hydroxyl. De préférence, on entend par « polyol » tout composé choisi parmi la glycérine, le propylène glycol, le propane-1 ,3-diol ou le sorbitol. - the term “polyol” is understood to mean any Ci-Cw-alkyl group substituted by at least two hydroxyl groups. Preferably, “polyol” means any compound chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol or sorbitol.
De plus, dans le cadre de la présente invention, et sauf mention contraire, les proportions exprimées en % correspondent à des pourcentages massiques par rapport au poids total de l’entité considérée. In addition, in the context of the present invention, and unless otherwise stated, the proportions expressed in % correspond to mass percentages relative to the total weight of the entity considered.
La composition selon la présente invention contient donc un acide aminé, une protéine, un alcool, une huile végétale et au moins 1% (p/p) d’au moins un acide aminé. De préférence, la présente invention a pour objet une composition telle que décrite précédemment présentant les caractéristiques suivantes, prises seules ou en combinaison : The composition according to the present invention therefore contains an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol, a vegetable oil and at least 1% (w/w) of at least one amino acid. Preferably, the subject of the present invention is a composition as described above having the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination:
- l’acide aminé est choisi parmi la lysine, la taurine ou un acide aminé protéinogène ou l’un de ses sels, d'acide ou de base, organiques ou minéraux. De préférence, l’acide aminé est choisi comme étant un acide aminé protéinogène ou l’un de ses sels, d'acide ou de base, organiques ou minéraux. De préférence encore l’acide aminé est choisi parmi l'acide aspartique, l'acide glutamique, l'asparagine, la carnitine, la cystéine, la glutamine, l'histidine, la leucine, l'isoleucine, la méthionine, la N-phénylalanine, la proline, l'hydroxyproline, la thréonine, le tryptophane, la tyrosine, la valine, la glycine, l'alanine, la sérine, la béta alanine et l'arginine ou l’un de leurs sels, d'acide ou de base, organiques ou minéraux. De façon tout à fait préférée, l’acide aminé est choisi parmi l’acide glutamique, la cystéine et l’arginine; - the amino acid is chosen from lysine, taurine or a proteinogenic amino acid or one of its salts, acid or base, organic or inorganic. Preferably, the amino acid is chosen as being a proteinogenic amino acid or one of its salts, acid or base, organic or inorganic. More preferably, the amino acid is chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, leucine, isoleucine, methionine, N- phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, glycine, alanine, serine, beta alanine and arginine or one of their salts, acid or basic, organic or mineral. Most preferably, the amino acid is chosen from glutamic acid, cysteine and arginine;
- la composition contient de 0,1% à 20% d’acide aminé tel que défini précédemment, de préférence de 0,1 % à 5% d’acide aminé tel que défini précédemment, de préférence encore de 0,1% à 3% d’acide aminé tel que défini précédemment ; - the composition contains from 0.1% to 20% of amino acid as defined above, preferably from 0.1% to 5% of amino acid as defined above, more preferably from 0.1% to 3 % of amino acid as defined above;
- la protéine est choisie parmi la créatine éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de blé éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de soie éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de spiruhne eventuellement hydrolysee, la keratme vegetale eventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de soja éventuellement hydrolysée, le collagène éventuellement hydrolysé, l’élastine éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de pois éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de riz éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de conchioline éventuellement hydrolysée et la protéine de lactosérum éventuellement hydrolysée. De façon tout à fait préférée, la protéine est choisie parmi la créatine, la protéine de spiruline éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de blé éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de soie éventuellement hydrolysée et la protéine de soja éventuellement hydrolysée ;- the protein is chosen from optionally hydrolyzed creatine, optionally hydrolyzed wheat protein, optionally hydrolyzed silk protein, optionally hydrolyzed spiruhne, optionally hydrolyzed vegetable keratin, optionally hydrolyzed soy protein, optionally hydrolyzed collagen, optionally hydrolyzed elastin, optionally hydrolyzed pea protein, optionally hydrolyzed rice protein, optionally hydrolyzed conchiolin protein and optionally hydrolyzed whey protein. Most preferably, the protein is chosen from creatine, optionally hydrolyzed spirulina protein, optionally hydrolyzed wheat protein, optionally hydrolyzed silk protein and optionally hydrolyzed soy protein;
- la composition contient de 0,1 % à 20% de protéine telle que définie précédemment, de préférence encore de 0,1% à 10% de protéine telle que définie précédemment, de façon tout à fait préférée de 0,1 % à 5% de protéine telle que définie précédemment;- the composition contains from 0.1% to 20% of protein as defined above, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% of protein as defined above, quite preferably from 0.1% to 5 % protein as previously defined;
- l’alcool est choisi parmi l’éthanol, le butanol, l’isopropanol et l’alcool benzylique. De préférence encore, l’alcool est choisi comme étant l’éthanol ou et l’alcool benzylique ;- the alcohol is chosen from ethanol, butanol, isopropanol and benzyl alcohol. More preferably, the alcohol is chosen as being ethanol or benzyl alcohol;
- la composition contient de 0,5% à 20% d’alcool tel que défini précédemment, de préférence encore de 0,5% à 10% d’alcool tel que défini précédemment, de façon tout à fait préférée de 0,5% à 4% d’alcool tel que défini précédemment ; - the composition contains from 0.5% to 20% alcohol as defined above, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% alcohol as defined above, most preferably 0.5% 4% alcohol as defined above;
- l’huile végétale contient au moins 1% d’acide linolénique ou d’acide carboxylique. De préférence encore, l’huile végétale est choisie parmi l’huile d’amande douce, l’huile de soja, l’huile d’argan, l’huile d’Haarlem, l’huile de Babassu, l’huile de brocoli, l’huile d’avocat, l’huile de lin, l’huile d’abricot, l’huile de concombre, l’huile de nigelle, l’huile de noix du Brésil, l’huile de pépins de raisin, l’oléine de karité, l’huile de sésame et l’huile de tomate. De façon tout à fait préférée, l’huile végétale est choisie comme étant l’huile de soja ou l’oléine de karité ; - vegetable oil contains at least 1% linolenic acid or carboxylic acid. Preferably again, the vegetable oil is chosen from sweet almond oil, soybean oil, argan oil, Haarlem oil, Babassu oil, broccoli oil , avocado oil, linseed oil, apricot oil, cucumber oil, nigella oil, Brazil nut oil, grapeseed oil, l shea olein, sesame oil and tomato oil. Most preferably, the vegetable oil is chosen as being soybean oil or shea olein;
- la composition contient de 0,1% à 10% d’huile végétale telle que définie précédemment, de préférence encore de 0,1% à 6% d’huile végétale telle que définie précédemment, de façon tout à fait préférée de 0,1% à 4% d’huile végétale telle que définie précédemment ; - the composition contains from 0.1% to 10% of vegetable oil as defined above, more preferably from 0.1% to 6% of vegetable oil as defined above, most preferably from 0, 1% to 4% vegetable oil as defined previously;
- l’acide organique est un diacide. De préférence, l’acide organique est un diacide possédant des propriétés antioxydantes. De préférence encore, l’acide organique est choisi parmi l’acide formique, l’acide acétique, l’acide sulfonique, l’acide carboxylique, l’acide salicylique, l’acide acétylsalicylique, l’acide ascorbique, l’ascorbate de sodium, le persulfate d’ammonium, le persulfate de sodium et le persulfate de potassium. De préférence encore, l’acide organique est choisi parmi l’acide ascorbique, l’acide salicylique et le persulfate d’ammonium. De façon tout à fait préférée, l’acide organique est choisi comme étant l’acide ascorbique ; - the organic acid is a diacid. Preferably, the organic acid is a diacid with antioxidant properties. More preferably, the organic acid is chosen from formic acid, acetic acid, sulphonic acid, carboxylic acid, salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, ascorbic acid, ascorbate of sodium, ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate. More preferably, the organic acid is chosen from ascorbic acid, salicylic acid and ammonium persulphate. Most preferably, the organic acid is chosen as being ascorbic acid;
- la composition comprend au moins deux acides organiques. De préférence, la composition comprend au moins deux acides organiques choisis comme des diacides. De preference encore, la composition comprend au moms deux acides organiques choisis comme des diacides possédant de des propriétés antioxydantes. De préférence encore, la composition comprend au moins deux acides organiques choisis parmi l’acide formique, l’acide acétique, l’acide sulfonique, l’acide carboxylique, l’acide salicylique, l’acide acétylsalicylique, l’acide ascorbique, l’ascorbate de sodium, le persulfate d’ammonium, le persulfate de sodium et le persulfate de potassium. De préférence encore, la composition comprend l’acide ascorbique et au moins un acide organique choisi parmi l’acide formique, l’acide acétique, l’acide sulfonique, l’acide carboxylique, l’acide salicylique, l’acide acétylsalicylique, le persulfate d’ammonium, le persulfate de sodium et le persulfate de potassium. De façon tout à fait préférée, la composition comprend l’acide ascorbique et au moins un acide organique choisi parmi l’acide salicylique, l’acide acétylsalicylique et le persulfate d’ammonium. - the composition comprises at least two organic acids. Preferably, the composition comprises at least two organic acids chosen as diacids. More preferably, the composition comprises at least two organic acids chosen as diacids possessing antioxidant properties. More preferably, the composition comprises at least two organic acids chosen from formic acid, acetic acid, sulphonic acid, carboxylic acid, salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate. More preferably, the composition comprises ascorbic acid and at least one organic acid chosen from formic acid, acetic acid, sulphonic acid, carboxylic acid, salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate. Most preferably, the composition comprises ascorbic acid and at least one organic acid chosen from salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid and ammonium persulphate.
- la composition contient de 1% à 20% d’acide organique tel que défini précédemment ; de préférence encore de 1 ,5% à 15% d’acide organique tel que défini précédemment ; de façon tout à fait préférée de 3% à 10% d’acide organique tel que défini précédemment ; et/ou - the composition contains from 1% to 20% of organic acid as defined previously; more preferably from 1.5% to 15% of organic acid as defined previously; most preferably from 3% to 10% organic acid as defined above; and or
- la composition contient en outre un polyol. - the composition additionally contains a polyol.
La composition selon l’invention peut se présenter sous la forme de crème, de gel, d’émulsion huile dans eau ou eau dans huile, de lotion capillaire ou de shampooing. De préférence la composition suivant l’invention se présente sous la forme d’une crème ou d’une lotion capillaire. The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cream, a gel, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a hair lotion or a shampoo. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a hair cream or lotion.
La composition selon l’invention peut se présenter sous la forme d’une composition unique ou sous la forme d’un kit comprenant deux, trois ou quatre compositions séparées contenant chacune un ou plusieurs des ingrédients de la composition selon la présente invention. De manière préférée, la présente invention a également pour objet un kit utile pour préparer une composition pour boucler les cheveux telle que définie précédemment, ledit comprenant : The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a single composition or in the form of a kit comprising two, three or four separate compositions each containing one or more of the ingredients of the composition according to the present invention. Preferably, a subject of the present invention is also a kit useful for preparing a composition for curling the hair as defined previously, said comprising:
- d’une part une composition contenant la protéine telle que définie précédemment et éventuellement un acide aminé, un alcool, une huile végétale et/ou un acide organique tels que définis précédemment ; et - on the one hand a composition containing the protein as defined above and optionally an amino acid, an alcohol, a vegetable oil and/or an organic acid as defined above; and
- d’autre part une composition contenant au moins acide organique tel que défini précédemment et éventuellement un acide aminé, un alcool et/ou une huile végétale tels que définis précédemment. La composition selon la presente invention, qu elle se presente sous forme de kit ou non, peut-être appliquée selon tout procédé connu de l’homme du métier. - on the other hand, a composition containing at least an organic acid as defined above and optionally an amino acid, an alcohol and/or a vegetable oil as defined above. The composition according to the present invention, whether it is in the form of a kit or not, can be applied according to any method known to those skilled in the art.
La composition selon la présente invention, lorsqu’elle est utilisée pour boucler les cheveux, est préférentiellement appliquée selon le procédé comprenant les étapes suivantes : The composition according to the present invention, when it is used to curl the hair, is preferably applied according to the method comprising the following steps:
- application de la composition selon l’invention directement sur cheveux secs ou humides ; - application of the composition according to the invention directly to dry or damp hair;
- enroulage classique sur bigoudis traditionnels ; - classic winding on traditional curlers;
- laisser agir pendant une durée pouvant varier de 5 minutes à 30 minutes ; - leave to act for a period that can vary from 5 minutes to 30 minutes;
- sécher l’ensemble de la chevelure tout en déroulant progressivement ; et - dry all of the hair while gradually unrolling; and
- rinçage des cheveux à l’eau. - rinsing the hair with water.
Le procédé selon la présente invention peut en outre être complété par : The method according to the present invention can also be supplemented by:
- l’application d’un shampooing postérieurement au rinçage des cheveux ; et/ou- the application of a shampoo after rinsing the hair; and or
- l’application d’un baume après shampooing ou d’un soin sans rinçage. - the application of an after-shampoo balm or a leave-in treatment.
Le procédé selon la présente invention peut être aisément mis en oeuvre et permet de boucler les cheveux de manière efficace et durable, sans utilisation de fer à friser ni de de réducteurs thiolés et/ou ammoniaqué, préservant ainsi la qualité des cheveux. The method according to the present invention can be easily implemented and makes it possible to curl the hair effectively and durably, without the use of a curling iron or of thiolated and/or ammonia-containing reducers, thus preserving the quality of the hair.
La composition selon la présente invention, lorsqu’elle est utilisée pour recourber les cils, est préférentiellement appliquée selon le procédé comprenant les étapes suivantes : The composition according to the present invention, when it is used to curl the eyelashes, is preferably applied according to the method comprising the following steps:
- lavage des cils avec un produit adapté ; - washing the eyelashes with a suitable product;
- application sur la paupière d’un outil de type « bigoudi » ou « coussinet » à cils ;- application on the eyelid of a “curler” or eyelash “cushion” type tool;
- application d’un adhésif adapté afin de maintenir les cils sur l’outil ; - application of a suitable adhesive to hold the eyelashes on the tool;
- application de la composition selon l’invention sur les cils ; - application of the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes;
- laisser agir pendant une durée pouvant varier de 5 minutes à 30 minutes ; - leave to act for a period that can vary from 5 minutes to 30 minutes;
- rinçage des cils à l’aide d’un coton mouillé ou d’une lotion ; et - rinsing the eyelashes with a damp cotton ball or lotion; and
- dépose de l’outil. - removal of the tool.
Le procédé selon la présente invention peut être aisément mis en oeuvre et permet de recourber les cils de manière efficace et durable, sans utilisation de peroxyde d’hydrogène ni de réducteurs thiolés et/ou ammoniaqué ni de de réducteurs thiolés et/ou ammoniaqué, préservant ainsi la qualité des cils. The process according to the present invention can be easily implemented and makes it possible to curl the eyelashes in an effective and lasting manner, without the use of hydrogen peroxide or thiolated and/or ammonia reducing agents or thiolated and/or ammonia reducing agents, preserving thus the quality of the eyelashes.
La présente invention est illustrée de manière non limitative par les exemples suivants. Exemple 1 - Composition selon l’invention The present invention is illustrated without limitation by the following examples. Example 1 - Composition according to the invention
Une crème prête à l’emploi comprenant un acide aminé, une protéine, un alcool, une huile végétale et deux acides organiques dont la composition est rapportée dans le Tableau 1 suivant est préparée. A ready-to-use cream comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol, a vegetable oil and two organic acids, the composition of which is reported in the following Table 1, is prepared.
Tableau 1 - Crème bouclante selon l’invention de cheveux Table 1 - Curling cream according to the invention hair
La crème bouclante décrite dans l’exemple 1 précédent est utilisée en vue de boucler une chevelure fragile, affaiblie par des tentatives de permanentes thiolées à répétition (Figure 1 ). The curling cream described in Example 1 above is used to curl fragile hair, weakened by repeated thiolated perm attempts (Figure 1).
L’application de la composition selon l’invention est effectuée selon le protocole suivant. The application of the composition according to the invention is carried out according to the following protocol.
Etape 1 : Application du shampooing directement sur cheveux humides Step 1: Apply shampoo directly to damp hair
La composition selon l’invention est appliquée sur l’ensemble de la chevelure humide et répartie au peigne. The composition according to the invention is applied to all of the damp hair and distributed with a comb.
Etape 2 : Enroulage sur bigoudis Step 2: Winding on curlers
Les cheveux ainsi traités sont ensuite enroulés de manière classique sur des bigoudis traditionnels puis on laisse le produit 20 minutes sous cellophane et sous un casque climazon. The hair thus treated is then rolled up in the conventional manner on traditional curlers and then the product is left for 20 minutes in cellophane and under a climazon helmet.
Etape 3 : Séchage et déroulage Step 3: Drying and unrolling
Les cheveux sont ensuite séchés à l’air chaud avec un séchoir. Les bigoudis sont ensuite retirés. The hair is then dried in hot air with a blow dryer. The curlers are then removed.
Etape 4 : Rinçage Step 4: Rinse
On laisse ensuite le cheveu refroidir et on rince les cheveux à l’eau, puis on effectue deux shampooings successifs à l’aide d’un shampooing si nécessaire. The hair is then left to cool and the hair is rinsed with water, then two successive shampoos are carried out using a shampoo if necessary.
Etape 5 : Séchage naturel Step 5: Natural drying
Les cheveux sont séchés à l’air chaud avec un séchoir ou coiffés à l’aide d’une brosse. The hair is hot air dried with a blow dryer or styled with a brush.
2.2 - Résultats obtenus On obtient une chevelure douce et malléable, avec un aspect plus dense, un gain de volume important et une boucle significative, sans aucune trace de sensibilisation (Figure 2). La durée de vie observée pour cette boucle est de trois mois (Figure 3). Exemple 3 - Composition selon l’invention 2.2 - Results obtained Soft and manageable hair is obtained, with a denser appearance, a significant gain in volume and significant curl, without any trace of sensitization (Figure 2). The lifespan observed for this loop is three months (Figure 3). Example 3 - Composition according to the invention
Une crème prête à l’emploi comprenant un acide aminé, une protéine, un alcool, une huile végétale et un acide organique dont la composition est rapportée dans le Tableau 2 suivant est préparée. A ready-to-use cream comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol, a vegetable oil and an organic acid, the composition of which is reported in the following Table 2, is prepared.
Tableau 2 - Crème bouclante selon l’invention de cheveux Table 2 - Curling cream according to the invention hair
La crème bouclante décrite dans l’exemple 3 précédent est utilisée en vue de boucler une chevelure très raide et épaisse, habituellement très difficile à boucler et sans tenue (Figure 4). The curling cream described in example 3 above is used to curl very straight and thick hair, usually very difficult to curl and without hold (Figure 4).
L’application de la composition selon l’invention est effectuée selon le protocole suivant. The application of the composition according to the invention is carried out according to the following protocol.
Etape 1 : Application d’un shampooing neutre pour nettoyer la chevelure. Step 1: Application of a neutral shampoo to cleanse the hair.
La composition selon l’invention est appliquée sur l’ensemble de la chevelure humide et répartie au peigne. The composition according to the invention is applied to all of the damp hair and distributed with a comb.
Etape 2 : Enroulage sur bigoudis Step 2: Winding on curlers
Les cheveux ainsi traités sont ensuite enroulés de manière classique sur des bigoudis traditionnels puis on laisse le produit 20 minutes sous cellophane et sous un casque climazon. The hair thus treated is then rolled up in the conventional manner on traditional curlers and then the product is left for 20 minutes in cellophane and under a climazon helmet.
Etape 3 : Séchage et déroulage Step 3: Drying and unrolling
Les cheveux sont ensuite séchés à l’air chaud avec un séchoir. Les bigoudis sont ensuite retirés. The hair is then dried in hot air with a blow dryer. The curlers are then removed.
Etape 4 : Rinçage Step 4: Rinse
On laisse ensuite le cheveu refroidir et on rince les cheveux à l’eau, puis on effectue un shampooing si nécessaire Then let the hair cool and rinse the hair with water, then shampoo if necessary
Etape 5 : Séchage naturel Step 5: Natural drying
Les cheveux sont séchés naturellement à l’air libre. Hair is naturally air dried.
4.2 - Résultats obtenus On obtient une belle boucle rebondie, une chevelure brillante, douce et vigoureuse sans aucun signe de déshydratation (Figure 5). La durée de vie observée de cette boucle est de 3 mois (Figure 6). Exemple 5 - Test de bouclage de cheveux comparatif 4.2 - Results obtained You get a beautiful plump curl, shiny, soft and vigorous hair without any sign of dehydration (Figure 5). The observed lifetime of this loop is 3 months (Figure 6). Example 5 - Comparative Hair Curl Test
5.1 - Composition testée 5.1 - Composition tested
Une crème prête à l’emploi comprenant un acide aminé, une protéine, un alcool et une huile végétale mais contenant moins de 1 % d’acide organique est préparée. Sa composition est rapportée dans le Tableau 3 suivant. A ready-to-use cream comprising an amino acid, protein, alcohol and vegetable oil but containing less than 1% organic acid is prepared. Its composition is reported in Table 3 below.
Cette composition correspond à la composition de lissage décrite dans la demande WO- A-2019/012219. This composition corresponds to the smoothing composition described in application WO-A-2019/012219.
Tableau 3 - Composition de lissage selon WO-A-2019/012219 Table 3 - Smoothing composition according to WO-A-2019/012219
5.2- Procédé de bouclage 5.2- Looping process
La crème décrite dans l’exemple précédent est utilisée en vue de vérifier s’il est possible de boucler une chevelure lisse (Figure 7). The cream described in the previous example is used to check whether it is possible to curl straight hair (Figure 7).
L’application de la composition selon l’invention de lissage est effectuée selon le protocole suivant. The application of the smoothing composition according to the invention is carried out according to the following protocol.
Etape 1 : Application du shampooing directement sur cheveux humides Step 1: Apply shampoo directly to damp hair
La composition selon l’invention est appliquée sur l’ensemble de la chevelure humide et répartie au peigne. The composition according to the invention is applied to all of the damp hair and distributed with a comb.
Etape 2 : Enroulage sur bigoudis Step 2: Winding on curlers
Les cheveux ainsi traités sont ensuite enroulés de manière classique sur des bigoudis traditionnels (Figure 8) puis on laisse le produit 20 minutes sous cellophane et sous un casque climazon. The hair thus treated is then rolled up in the conventional manner on traditional curlers (FIG. 8) then the product is left for 20 minutes in cellophane and under a climazon helmet.
Etape 3 : Séchage et déroulage Les cheveux sont ensuite seches a I air chaud avec un séchoir. Les bigoudis sont ensuite retirés. Step 3: Drying and unrolling The hair is then dried in hot air with a dryer. The curlers are then removed.
Etape 4 : Rinçage Step 4: Rinse
On laisse ensuite le cheveu refroidir et on rince les cheveux à l’eau, puis on effectue deux shampooings successifs à l’aide d’un shampooing si nécessaire. The hair is then left to cool and the hair is rinsed with water, then two successive shampoos are carried out using a shampoo if necessary.
Etape 5 : Séchage naturel Step 5: Natural drying
Les cheveux sont séchés naturellement à température ambiante. The hair is dried naturally at room temperature.
5.3 - Résultats obtenus 5.3 - Results obtained
Une chevelure avec un aspect plus dense et une fibre plus douce obtenue. Néanmoins, aucune boucle n’est observée (Figure 9). Hair with a denser appearance and a softer fiber obtained. Nevertheless, no loop is observed (Figure 9).
La composition de lissage décrite dans la demande WO-A-20219/012219 ne permet donc pas de boucler les cheveux sur lesquels elle est appliquée. The smoothing composition described in application WO-A-20219/012219 therefore does not make it possible to curl the hair to which it is applied.
6 - Test de recourbement des cils 6 - Eyelash curling test
6.1 - Procédé de recourbement 6.1 - Bending process
La crème bouclante décrite dans l’exemple 1 précédent est utilisée en vue de recourber des cils raides et droits (Figure 10) The curling cream described in example 1 above is used to curl stiff, straight eyelashes (Figure 10)
L’application de la composition selon l’invention est effectuée selon le protocole suivant. The application of the composition according to the invention is carried out according to the following protocol.
Etape 1 : Nettoyage des cils Step 1: Cleaning the eyelashes
Les cils sont avec une lotion adaptée puis on pose un bigoudi ou un coussinet adhésif sur la paupière supérieure The eyelashes are with a suitable lotion then a curler or an adhesive pad is placed on the upper eyelid
Etape 2 : Courbure du cil La composition selon l’invention est appliquée sur la frange des cils à l’aide d’un pinceau ou d’une estompe puis on laisse le produit entre 5 et 30 minutes sous cellophane. Step 2: Curvature of the eyelash The composition according to the invention is applied to the fringe of the eyelashes using a brush or a stump and then the product is left for between 5 and 30 minutes in cellophane.
Etape 3 : Rinçage Step 3: Rinse
Le produit est rincé à l’aide d’un coton mouillé puis le coussinet ou le bigoudi est décollé. The product is rinsed with a damp cotton ball and then the pad or curler is peeled off.
6.2 - Résultats obtenus 6.2 - Results obtained
On obtient une frange cilaire courbée avec un aspect plus dense, sans aucune trace de sensibilisation (Figure 11 ). La durée de vie observée pour cette courbure est de quatre semaines. A curved ciliary fringe is obtained with a denser appearance, without any trace of sensitization (Figure 11). The observed lifespan for this curvature is four weeks.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1 . Composition pour boucler les cheveux ou recourber les cils comprenant : 1 . Composition for curling the hair or curling the eyelashes comprising:
- un acide aminé ; - an amino acid;
- une protéine ; - a protein;
- un alcool ; - an alcohol;
- une huile végétale ; et - a vegetable oil; and
- au moins 1% (p/p) d’au moins un acide organique ou l’un de ses sels organiques ou minéraux. - at least 1% (w/w) of at least one organic acid or one of its organic or mineral salts.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce que l’acide aminé est choisi parmi la lysine, la taurine ou un acide aminé protéinogène ou l’un de ses sels, d'acide ou de base, organiques ou minéraux. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the amino acid is chosen from lysine, taurine or a proteinogenic amino acid or one of its salts, acid or base, organic or inorganic.
3. Composition selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que l’acide aminé est un acide aminé protéinogène ou l’un de ses sels, d'acide ou de base, organiques ou minéraux choisi parmi l'acide aspartique, l'acide glutamique, l'asparagine, la carnitine, la cystéine, la glutamine, l'histidine, la leucine, l'isoleucine, la méthionine, la N- phénylalanine, la proline, l'hydroxyproline, la thréonine, le tryptophane, la tyrosine, la valine, la glycine, l'alanine, la sérine, la béta alanine et l'arginine ou l’un de leurs sels, d'acide ou de base, organiques ou minéraux. 3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the amino acid is a proteinogenic amino acid or one of its salts, acid or base, organic or mineral chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid , asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, leucine, isoleucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, glycine, alanine, serine, beta alanine and arginine or one of their salts, acid or base, organic or inorganic.
4. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que la protéine est choisie parmi la créatine éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de blé éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de soie éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de spiruline éventuellement hydrolysée, la kératine végétale éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de soja éventuellement hydrolysée, le collagène éventuellement hydrolysé, l’élastine éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de pois éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de riz éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de conchioline éventuellement hydrolysée et la protéine de lactosérum éventuellement hydrolysée. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the protein is chosen from optionally hydrolyzed creatine, optionally hydrolyzed wheat protein, optionally hydrolyzed silk protein, optionally hydrolyzed spirulina protein, optionally hydrolyzed vegetable keratin, optionally hydrolyzed soy protein, optionally hydrolyzed collagen, optionally hydrolyzed elastin, optionally hydrolyzed pea protein, optionally hydrolyzed rice protein, optionally hydrolyzed conchiolin protein and optionally hydrolyzed whey protein .
5. Composition selon la revendication 4, caractérisée en ce que la protéine est choisie parmi la créatine, la protéine de spiruline éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de blé éventuellement hydrolysée, la protéine de soie éventuellement hydrolysée et la protéine de soja éventuellement hydrolysée. 5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the protein is chosen from creatine, optionally hydrolyzed spirulina protein, optionally hydrolyzed wheat protein, optionally hydrolyzed silk protein and optionally hydrolyzed soy protein.
6. Composition selon I une quelconque des revendications 1 a 5, caractérisée en ce que l’alcool est choisi parmi l’éthanol, le butanol, l’isopropanol et l’alcool benzylique. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the alcohol is chosen from ethanol, butanol, isopropanol and benzyl alcohol.
7. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce que l’huile végétale est choisie parmi l’huile d’amande douce, l’huile de soja, l’huile d’argan, l’huile d’Haarlem, l’huile de Babassu, l’huile de brocoli, l’huile d’avocat, l’huile de lin, l’huile d’abricot, l’huile de concombre, l’huile de nigelle, l’huile de noix du Brésil, l’huile de pépins de raisin, l’oléine de karité, l’huile de sésame et l’huile de tomate. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the vegetable oil is chosen from sweet almond oil, soybean oil, argan oil, oil of 'Haarlem, Babassu oil, broccoli oil, avocado oil, linseed oil, apricot oil, cucumber oil, nigella oil, oil Brazil nut oil, grape seed oil, shea olein, sesame oil and tomato oil.
8. Composition selon la revendication 7, caractérisée en ce que l’huile végétale est choisie comme étant l’huile de soja ou l’oléine de karité. 8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the vegetable oil is chosen as being soybean oil or shea olein.
9. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en ce que l’acide organique est un diacide. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the organic acid is a diacid.
10. Composition selon la revendication 9, caractérisée en ce que l’acide organique est un diacide possédant des propriétés antioxydantes. 10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the organic acid is a diacid having antioxidant properties.
11. Composition selon la revendication 10, caractérisée en ce que l’acide organique est choisi parmi l’acide formique, l’acide acétique, l’acide sulfonique, l’acide carboxylique, l’acide salicylique, l’acide acétylsalicylique, l’acide ascorbique, l’ascorbate de sodium, le persulfate d’ammonium, le persulfate de sodium et le persulfate de potassium. 11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the organic acid is chosen from formic acid, acetic acid, sulphonic acid, carboxylic acid, salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, l ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate.
12. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 11 , caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend au moins deux acides organiques. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises at least two organic acids.
13. Composition selon la revendication 12, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend l’acide ascorbique et au moins un acide organique choisi parmi l’acide formique, l’acide acétique, l’acide sulfonique, l’acide carboxylique, l’acide salicylique, l’acide acétylsalicylique, le persulfate d’ammonium, le persulfate de sodium et le persulfate de potassium. 19 13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that it comprises ascorbic acid and at least one organic acid chosen from formic acid, acetic acid, sulphonic acid, carboxylic acid, salicylic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, ammonium persulfate, sodium persulfate and potassium persulfate. 19
14. Procédé pour boucler des cheveux comprenant les étapes suivantes : 14. Process for curling hair comprising the following steps:
- application de la composition selon l’une des revendications 1 à 13 directement sur cheveux secs ou humides ; - application of the composition according to one of claims 1 to 13 directly to dry or damp hair;
- enroulage classique sur bigoudis traditionnels ; - laisser agir pendant une durée pouvant varier de 5 minutes à 30 minutes ; - classic winding on traditional curlers; - leave to act for a period that can vary from 5 minutes to 30 minutes;
- sécher l’ensemble de la chevelure tout en déroulant progressivement ; et - dry all of the hair while gradually unrolling; and
- rinçage des cheveux à l’eau. - rinsing the hair with water.
15. Procédé pour recourber les cils comprenant les étapes suivantes : - lavage des cils avec un produit adapté ; 15. Method for curling the eyelashes comprising the following steps: - washing the eyelashes with a suitable product;
- application sur la paupière d’un outil de type « bigoudi » ou « coussinet » à cils ;- application to the eyelid of a “curler” or eyelash “cushion” type tool;
- application d’un adhésif adapté afin de maintenir les cils sur l’outil ; - application of a suitable adhesive to hold the eyelashes on the tool;
- application de la composition selon l’invention sur les cils ; - application of the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes;
- laisser agir pendant une durée pouvant varier de 5 minutes à 30 minutes ; - rinçage des cils à l’aide d’un coton mouillé ou d’une lotion ; et - leave to act for a period that can vary from 5 minutes to 30 minutes; - rinsing the eyelashes with a wet cotton ball or lotion; and
- dépose de l’outil. - removal of the tool.
EP21848014.3A 2020-12-23 2021-12-22 Novel composition for curling hair or curling eyelashes Pending EP4267092A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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FR2014069A FR3117821B1 (en) 2020-12-23 2020-12-23 New composition for curling hair
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WO2019012219A1 (en) 2017-07-11 2019-01-17 Di Visco New composition for straightening hair
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US20240050346A1 (en) 2024-02-15
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CN116685234A (en) 2023-09-01
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