EP4167933A1 - Tinted sunscreen - Google Patents

Tinted sunscreen

Info

Publication number
EP4167933A1
EP4167933A1 EP20734695.8A EP20734695A EP4167933A1 EP 4167933 A1 EP4167933 A1 EP 4167933A1 EP 20734695 A EP20734695 A EP 20734695A EP 4167933 A1 EP4167933 A1 EP 4167933A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
composition
composition according
total
calculated
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP20734695.8A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Fabian CRUZ
Delphine CHANTY
Yanel DE MORAL
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP4167933A1 publication Critical patent/EP4167933A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a tinted sunscreen composition.
  • a beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people.
  • One typical sign of such an appearance is a healthy and smooth looking skin. Therefore, in order to take care of the skin, it is for many people a daily routine to apply cosmetic products such as body lotions, sunscreens or deodorant compositions.
  • compositions containing UV-filters are commonly used to protect the skin from the ultraviolet (UV) radiation of the sunlight.
  • UV ultraviolet
  • long term damage such as an increased risk of skin cancer occurs in case of excessive irradiation with light from the UV-B range (wavelength: 280-320 nm).
  • the excessive exposure of UV-B and UV-A radiation also leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue. This leads to numerous photo-toxic and photo- allergic reactions and results in premature skin ageing.
  • UV-A and UV-B filters are grouped in the most developed countries in the form of positive lists. Accordingly, substances which are UV- A and UV-B filters are those listed in the Annex VI of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.
  • Cosmetic composition comprising UV-A and UV-B filters are commonly known by the person skilled in art.
  • One special kind of those are pigmented sunscreen compositions.
  • Those compositions contain colored organic or inorganic pigments, which are not titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which allow for a balancing off the color shades of the skin. Accordingly, by applying such a composition the skin is protected from UV rays and a more even skin tone is obtained.
  • Typical sunscreens comprising colored organic and/or inorganic pigments are disclosed in WO 2007068700 Aland US 20110033400 A1.
  • SPF Sun protection factor
  • cosmetic sunscreen compositions comprising make-up pigments, which do not suffer the disadvantages described above. It is particularly desirable to provide cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising UV-filter and make-up pigments, which have a long lasting matte appearance on the skin, in particular with sebum, have no oily sensory on the skin, allow a good and strong adherence of make-up pigments on the skin and/or avoid color changing of the composition itself on the skin, especially if exposed to humid and/or warm weather conditions.
  • the invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a) at least one organic UV-filter, b) at least one inorganic pigment, and c) in addition silica cetyl silylate.
  • a further aspect of the invention is the use of the cosmetic composition of the invention to provide a matte skin appearance, in particular if the skin is exposed to light after application of the composition. It is preferred if the light is infrared light.
  • the terms ..according to the invention”, “preferred according to the invention” and so on are always directed to the use according to the invention, to the method according to the invention and to the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • normal conditions refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
  • skin refers solely to human skin.
  • silica cetyl silylate is not considered as pigment.
  • the composition is characterized in that at least one organic UV-filter is contained.
  • UV-filter is understood as a substance which is listed in the UV-A and UV-B filter list in the Annex VI of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.
  • organic UV-filter is understood as an UV-filter, which is substantially based on an organic molecule. Accordingly, e.g. titanium dioxide does not fall in the definition of an organic UV-filter.
  • the composition comprises at least one water-soluble organic UV-filter.
  • Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the total amount of water-soluble organic UV-filters in the preparation is from 0.1 to 18% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight and most preferably from 0.8% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • sulfonic acid salts are used as water-soluble organic UV-filters. These include phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.
  • the water-soluble organic UV-filters are preferably selected from the group of the compounds phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.
  • phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid is particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the preferred use concentration for phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid is from 0.5 to 3% by weight and preferably from 0.55 to 2.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • composition comprises at least one organic UV-filter, which is selected from the group consisting of camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, homosalate, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, peg-25 paba, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl dimethyl paba, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, methylene bis-benzotriazo
  • the composition comprises bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, whereby the total quantity of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably 0.6 to 6% by weight, particularly preferably 0.7 to 3.5% by weight based on the total weight of composition.
  • the composition comprises ethylhexyl salicylate, whereby the total quantity of ethylhexyl salicylate is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably 2 to 9% by weight, particularly preferably 3 to 7.5% by weight based on the total weight of composition. It is further preferred if the composition comprises ethylhexyl triazone, whereby the total quantity of ethylhexyl triazone is preferably in the range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 to 1.5% by weight based on the total weight of composition.
  • the composition comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, whereby the total quantity of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably 0.6 to 6% by weight, particularly preferably 0.7 to 2.5% by weight based on the total weight of composition.
  • the total quantity of all organic UV-filters is in the range from 5 to 18% by weight, more preferably 7 to 15% by weight and most preferably 8.5 to 12.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. This considerably high quantities of organic UV-filters ensure that a high SPF factor is achieved allowing the product to be used on facial skin, which is exposed extensively to UV radiation.
  • composition of the invention is free from octocrylene. That means the content of octocrylene is preferably 0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least one inorganic pigment, in particular metal oxides. Accordingly, the composition comprises preferably at least one inorganic pigment, which is preferably a metal pigments, in particular preferred metal oxides.
  • Particularly advantageous inorganic pigments are oxides of titanium (T1O2), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 C> 3 ), zirconium (ZrC>2), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (AI 2 O 3 ), cerium (eg Ce 2 C> 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides, as well as the sulfate of barium (BaSCU).
  • the composition comprises at least oxides of titanium and iron.
  • the total quantity of the inorganic pigments is preferably in the range 2 to 14% by weight, more preferably 4 to 13% by weight and most preferably 5 to 11.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total quantity of the metal pigments is preferably in the range 2 to 14% by weight, more preferably 4% to 12.5% by weight and most preferably 6 to 11% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total quantity of the inorganic pigments, which are metal oxides, is preferably in the range 2 to 14% by weight, more preferably 4% to 12.5% by weight and most preferably 6 to 11% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • titanium dioxide is contained.
  • the total quantity of titanium dioxide is in the range from 3.5 to 8.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • iron oxide is contained.
  • the total quantity of iron oxide is in the range from 0.1 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight and most preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises silica cetyl silylate.
  • Silica cetyl silylate can commercially be obtained under the tradename AEROSIL R 816 from Evonik.
  • silica cetyl silylate is contained and the total quantity of silica cetyl silylate is in the range from 0.1 to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 4% by weight and most preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is characterized in that the composition is a pickering emulsion.
  • a pickering emulsion is an emulsion that is stabilized by solid particles, which adsorb onto the interface between the two phases of an emulsion, meaning an oil and an aqueous phase.
  • the silica cetyl silylate allows for such a stabilization.
  • the pickering emulsion of the present invention is characterized in that it is an oil in water emulsion.
  • the composition does comprise emulsifiers and surfactants in quantity of less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0% by weight. Accordingly, it is most preferred if the composition does not comprise an emulsifier and/or a surfactant.
  • composition does not comprise any additional emulsifier and/or surfactants.
  • the compositions comprises low amounts of emulsifier. Accordingly, it is preferred if the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.95% by weight of at least one emulsifier, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least glyceryl stearate as emulsifier.
  • Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "emulsifying agent”.
  • Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "surfactant”.
  • composition according to the invention comprises Chondrus Crispus Extract.
  • composition comprises Chondrus Crispus Extract in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention are further characterized in that the composition comprises at least one further oil, which is not an organic UV-filter.
  • the total quantity of the oils which are not an UV-filter is in the range from 2 to 12% by weight, more preferably 2.5 to 10% by weight and most preferably 3 to 8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • Preferred oils according to the invention are selected from esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, whereby the ester is liquid under normal conditions.
  • oils hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ® G 16 S), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® C 24), cetearyl isononanoate, isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ® 868). Particular preferred are C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isoamyl laurate, and/or cetearyl isononanoate.
  • Preferred examples are soya oil, cotton seed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, avocado oil, peach kernel oil and/or the liquid fractions of coconut oil.
  • the cosmetic composition is characterized in that cetearyl isononanoate is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of cetearyl isononanoate is in the range from 1 to 9.8% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 6.8% by weight and most preferably 2 to 5.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition is characterized in that isoamyl laurate is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of isoamyl laurate is in the range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight and most preferably 1.5 to 8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition is characterized in that triisostearin is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of triisostearin is in the range from 0.5 to 9.8% by weight, more preferably 1 to 6.8% by weight and most preferably 2 to 5.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition is characterized in that dicaprylyl carbonate is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of dicaprylyl carbonate is in the range from 0.5 to 9.8% by weight, more preferably 1 to 6.8% by weight and most preferably 2 to 5.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition is characterized in that butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate is in the range from 0.5 to 9.8% by weight, more preferably 1 to 6.8% by weight and most preferably 2 to 5.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition is characterized in that C12-15 alkyl benzoate is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of C12-15 alkyl benzoate is in the range from 0.5 to 9.8% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.8% by weight and most preferably 2.0 to 5.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition is characterized in that caprylic/capric triglyceride is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of caprylic/capric triglyceride is in the range from 0.5 to 9.8% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.8% by weight and most preferably 2.0 to 5.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one polysaccharide gum.
  • Preferred polysaccharide gums are selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, succinoglycan gum and sclerotium gum.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide gum, in particular xanthan gum, succinoglycan gum and/or sclerotium gum
  • the total quantity of the polysaccharide gum in particular the total quantity of xanthan gum, succinoglycan gum and/or sclerotium gum
  • Most preferred is the use of xanthan gum in the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention are preferably characterized in that the composition comprise hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and/or hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose. If hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and/or hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose are contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and/or hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose is in the range from 0.5 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.9 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions do not contain a homo- or copolymer of acrylic acid.
  • formulations are particular environmentally friendly as they rely on plant derived ingredients to set up the rheological profile of the composition.
  • compositions comprise a homo- or copolymer of acrylic acid.
  • Preferred polymers are carbomer and/or Acrylates/C 10- 30 alkyl acrylate copolymer. If at least one homo- or copolymer of acrylic acid is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those polymers is in the range from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the compositions do comprise hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexylglycerin, phenoxyethanol.
  • the total quantity of hydroxyacetophenone is preferable in the range from 0.05 to 0.4% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is preferable in the range from 0.05 to 0.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is preferable in the range from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one moisturizer selected from the group consisting of glycerol and methylpropanediol.
  • the total quantity of both is in the range from 2 to14% by weight, more preferably 3 to 12% and most preferably 5 to 10% by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • glycerol is contained in a total quantity from 4 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 4.5 to 7.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • silica is contained in a quantity of less than 0.3% by weight, more preferably less than 0.2% by weight and most preferably less than 0.15% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention does not comprise particles consisting of silica. It is further preferred if the composition does not comprise silica dimethyl silylate.
  • the composition comprises at least one wax compound.
  • a wax compound is contained it is preferred of the total quantities of the wax compounds is in the range from 0.1 to 4% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • Preferred wax compounds which can be contained in the composition of the invention, are selected from the group of natural waxes and hydrogenated waxes. Preferred are hydrogenated rapeseed oil and sunflower wax.
  • the composition comprises at least one fatty alcohol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred fatty alcohols are stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, known under the INCI designation cetearyl alcohol.
  • cetearyl alcohol For the case that at least one fatty alcohol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those is in the range from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the invention may further comprise active ingredients which can have a beneficial aspect for the human skin.
  • active ingredients are Glycyrrhetinic acid, arctiin, folic acid, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, caffeine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, glycerylglucose, creatine, creatinine, taurine, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin C, vitamin C phosphate, vitamin C palmitate, niacinamides, vitamin A palmitate, retinol, panthenol, glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, licochalcon A, 4-butylresorcinol, N - [(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl] isobutyramide, honociol and magnolol (also as a component of Magnolia- Extracts
  • Ex.1 and Ex.2 are examples according to the invention, while Com.1 and Com.2 are comparative example.
  • composition of the invention allowed for a more matte appearance. Especially after exposure to IR radiation. Furthermore, no color change was observed for the example according to the invention. It is obvious that other kind of silica particle do not have the beneficial effects.

Abstract

Cosmetic composition.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg
Tinted sunscreen
The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a tinted sunscreen composition.
A beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. One typical sign of such an appearance is a healthy and smooth looking skin. Therefore, in order to take care of the skin, it is for many people a daily routine to apply cosmetic products such as body lotions, sunscreens or deodorant compositions.
For example, compositions containing UV-filters are commonly used to protect the skin from the ultraviolet (UV) radiation of the sunlight. In addition to the acute damage (sunburn), long term damage such as an increased risk of skin cancer occurs in case of excessive irradiation with light from the UV-B range (wavelength: 280-320 nm). The excessive exposure of UV-B and UV-A radiation (wavelength: 320-400 nm) also leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue. This leads to numerous photo-toxic and photo- allergic reactions and results in premature skin ageing.
To protect the skin, a number of light protection filter substances have been developed, which can be used in cosmetic preparations. These UV-A and UV-B filters are grouped in the most developed countries in the form of positive lists. Accordingly, substances which are UV- A and UV-B filters are those listed in the Annex VI of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.
Cosmetic composition comprising UV-A and UV-B filters are commonly known by the person skilled in art. One special kind of those are pigmented sunscreen compositions. Those compositions contain colored organic or inorganic pigments, which are not titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which allow for a balancing off the color shades of the skin. Accordingly, by applying such a composition the skin is protected from UV rays and a more even skin tone is obtained.
Typical sunscreens comprising colored organic and/or inorganic pigments are disclosed in WO 2007068700 Aland US 20110033400 A1. However, the pure fact that make-up products with a high SPF (Sun protection factor) factor exist should not obscure that those products still suffer a number of disadvantages which need to be addressed.
Especially in Latin America about 60% of the women are considered to have oily skin. Due to the strong sun radiation in that region it is a requirement to protect especially the facial skin using high SPF products. At the same time, many of those women prefer to use colored sun protection products in order to get an even skin tone.
However, if conventional products comprising UV-filter to provide a high SPF and make-up pigments are used on oily skin, it is often the case that the products intensify the oiliness of the skin. Furthermore, the adherence of the make-up pigments of the product to oily skin is often found to be reduced due to the sebum production. Furthermore, the make-up pigments of the product may run down the skin if the customer starts sweating. The products are also often felt to be too thick, oily and greasy on the skin. It is also found that the color of the composition changes over time if applied on oily skin.
Accordingly, it is desirable to provide cosmetic sunscreen compositions comprising make-up pigments, which do not suffer the disadvantages described above. It is particularly desirable to provide cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising UV-filter and make-up pigments, which have a long lasting matte appearance on the skin, in particular with sebum, have no oily sensory on the skin, allow a good and strong adherence of make-up pigments on the skin and/or avoid color changing of the composition itself on the skin, especially if exposed to humid and/or warm weather conditions.
It was surprisingly found that the objectives described above can be solved by the present invention.
The invention is a cosmetic composition comprising a) at least one organic UV-filter, b) at least one inorganic pigment, and c) in addition silica cetyl silylate.
A further aspect of the invention is the use of the cosmetic composition of the invention to provide a matte skin appearance, in particular if the skin is exposed to light after application of the composition. It is preferred if the light is infrared light. In the following description the terms ..according to the invention”, “preferred according to the invention” and so on are always directed to the use according to the invention, to the method according to the invention and to the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
All weight percentages (% by weight) given below relate, unless otherwise stated, to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer, unless otherwise stated, to weight ratios of the components.
Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions”. The term "normal conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.
The term “skin” refers solely to human skin.
Obviously, silica cetyl silylate is not considered as pigment.
According to the present invention the composition is characterized in that at least one organic UV-filter is contained.
The term UV-filter is understood as a substance which is listed in the UV-A and UV-B filter list in the Annex VI of the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.
The term organic UV-filter is understood as an UV-filter, which is substantially based on an organic molecule. Accordingly, e.g. titanium dioxide does not fall in the definition of an organic UV-filter.
In one aspect of the present invention the composition comprises at least one water-soluble organic UV-filter. Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the total amount of water-soluble organic UV-filters in the preparation is from 0.1 to 18% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight and most preferably from 0.8% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
It is advantageous according to the invention if sulfonic acid salts are used as water-soluble organic UV-filters. These include phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.
According to the invention, the water-soluble organic UV-filters are preferably selected from the group of the compounds phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate. The use of phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid is particularly preferred according to the invention.
The preferred use concentration for phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid is from 0.5 to 3% by weight and preferably from 0.55 to 2.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Furthermore, it is preferred if composition comprises at least one organic UV-filter, which is selected from the group consisting of camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, homosalate, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, peg-25 paba, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl dimethyl paba, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, polysilicone-15, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, tris-biphenyl triazine / tris- biphenyl triazine and phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine.
It is further preferred if the composition comprises bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, whereby the total quantity of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably 0.6 to 6% by weight, particularly preferably 0.7 to 3.5% by weight based on the total weight of composition.
It is further preferred if the composition comprises ethylhexyl salicylate, whereby the total quantity of ethylhexyl salicylate is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably 2 to 9% by weight, particularly preferably 3 to 7.5% by weight based on the total weight of composition. It is further preferred if the composition comprises ethylhexyl triazone, whereby the total quantity of ethylhexyl triazone is preferably in the range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3 to 1.5% by weight based on the total weight of composition.
It is further preferred if the composition comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, whereby the total quantity of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is preferably in the range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably 0.6 to 6% by weight, particularly preferably 0.7 to 2.5% by weight based on the total weight of composition.
It is further preferred if the total quantity of all organic UV-filters is in the range from 5 to 18% by weight, more preferably 7 to 15% by weight and most preferably 8.5 to 12.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. This considerably high quantities of organic UV-filters ensure that a high SPF factor is achieved allowing the product to be used on facial skin, which is exposed extensively to UV radiation.
Nevertheless, it is preferred if the composition of the invention is free from octocrylene. That means the content of octocrylene is preferably 0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention the composition of the invention comprises at least one inorganic pigment, in particular metal oxides. Accordingly, the composition comprises preferably at least one inorganic pigment, which is preferably a metal pigments, in particular preferred metal oxides.
Particularly advantageous inorganic pigments are oxides of titanium (T1O2), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe2C>3), zirconium (ZrC>2), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (AI2O3), cerium (eg Ce2C>3), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides, as well as the sulfate of barium (BaSCU).
It is in particular preferred if the composition comprises at least oxides of titanium and iron.
The total quantity of the inorganic pigments is preferably in the range 2 to 14% by weight, more preferably 4 to 13% by weight and most preferably 5 to 11.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. The total quantity of the metal pigments is preferably in the range 2 to 14% by weight, more preferably 4% to 12.5% by weight and most preferably 6 to 11% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
The total quantity of the inorganic pigments, which are metal oxides, is preferably in the range 2 to 14% by weight, more preferably 4% to 12.5% by weight and most preferably 6 to 11% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
It is further preferred if titanium dioxide is contained. For the case titanium dioxide is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of titanium dioxide is in the range from 3.5 to 8.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
It is further preferred if iron oxide is contained. For the case iron oxide is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of iron oxide is in the range from 0.1 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight and most preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention, the composition comprises silica cetyl silylate.
Silica cetyl silylate can commercially be obtained under the tradename AEROSIL R 816 from Evonik.
It is in particular preferred if silica cetyl silylate is contained and the total quantity of silica cetyl silylate is in the range from 0.1 to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 4% by weight and most preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention it is further preferred if the composition according to the invention is characterized in that the composition is a pickering emulsion. The person skilled in art is well aware, that a pickering emulsion is an emulsion that is stabilized by solid particles, which adsorb onto the interface between the two phases of an emulsion, meaning an oil and an aqueous phase. In the present case, the silica cetyl silylate allows for such a stabilization.
It is preferred, if the pickering emulsion of the present invention is characterized in that it is an oil in water emulsion. According to the invention it is further preferred if the composition does comprise emulsifiers and surfactants in quantity of less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0% by weight. Accordingly, it is most preferred if the composition does not comprise an emulsifier and/or a surfactant.
According to the invention it is further preferred if the composition does not comprise any additional emulsifier and/or surfactants.
In another embodiment of the invention, it is preferred if the compositions comprises low amounts of emulsifier. Accordingly, it is preferred if the composition comprises 0.1 to 0.95% by weight of at least one emulsifier, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
For the case that at least one emulsifier is contained in the composition according to the invention, it is preferred if the composition comprises at least glyceryl stearate as emulsifier.
Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "emulsifying agent". Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "surfactant".
Further, it is preferred if the composition according to the invention comprises Chondrus Crispus Extract. For the cases that Chondrus Crispus Extract is contained, it is further preferred if the composition comprises Chondrus Crispus Extract in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Preferred compositions according to the invention are further characterized in that the composition comprises at least one further oil, which is not an organic UV-filter.
It is preferred, if the total quantity of the oils which are not an UV-filter is in the range from 2 to 12% by weight, more preferably 2.5 to 10% by weight and most preferably 3 to 8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Preferred oils according to the invention are selected from esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, whereby the ester is liquid under normal conditions. These include the preferred oils hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ® G 16 S), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® C 24), cetearyl isononanoate, isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ® 868). Particular preferred are C12-15 alkyl benzoate, isoamyl laurate, and/or cetearyl isononanoate.
Further preferred oils which can be contained in the composition are selected from the group consisting of triisostearin, dicaprylyl carbonate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, dicaprylyl ether, cocoglycerides and caprylic/capric triglyceride.
Further preferred oils which can be contained in the composition are selected from the group consisting of natural oils. Preferred examples are soya oil, cotton seed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, avocado oil, peach kernel oil and/or the liquid fractions of coconut oil.
For the case that the cosmetic composition is characterized in that cetearyl isononanoate is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of cetearyl isononanoate is in the range from 1 to 9.8% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 6.8% by weight and most preferably 2 to 5.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
For the case that the cosmetic composition is characterized in that isoamyl laurate is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of isoamyl laurate is in the range from 0.5 to 12% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight and most preferably 1.5 to 8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
For the case that the cosmetic composition is characterized in that triisostearin is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of triisostearin is in the range from 0.5 to 9.8% by weight, more preferably 1 to 6.8% by weight and most preferably 2 to 5.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
For the case that the cosmetic composition is characterized in that dicaprylyl carbonate is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of dicaprylyl carbonate is in the range from 0.5 to 9.8% by weight, more preferably 1 to 6.8% by weight and most preferably 2 to 5.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. For the case that the cosmetic composition is characterized in that butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate is in the range from 0.5 to 9.8% by weight, more preferably 1 to 6.8% by weight and most preferably 2 to 5.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
For the case that the cosmetic composition is characterized in that C12-15 alkyl benzoate is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of C12-15 alkyl benzoate is in the range from 0.5 to 9.8% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.8% by weight and most preferably 2.0 to 5.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
For the case that the cosmetic composition is characterized in that caprylic/capric triglyceride is contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of caprylic/capric triglyceride is in the range from 0.5 to 9.8% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 6.8% by weight and most preferably 2.0 to 5.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Furthermore, it is preferred according to the present invention if the composition comprises at least one polysaccharide gum. Preferred polysaccharide gums are selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, succinoglycan gum and sclerotium gum.
For the case that the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide gum, in particular xanthan gum, succinoglycan gum and/or sclerotium gum, it is preferred if the total quantity of the polysaccharide gum, in particular the total quantity of xanthan gum, succinoglycan gum and/or sclerotium gum, is in the range from 0.1 to 2% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 1.5% by weight and most preferably 0.3 to 1 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. Most preferred is the use of xanthan gum in the composition.
Further, compositions according to the invention are preferably characterized in that the composition comprise hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and/or hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose. If hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and/or hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose are contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and/or hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose is in the range from 0.5 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.9 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Some preferred embodiments of the invention are characterized in that the composition does not contain a homo- or copolymer of acrylic acid. Those formulations are particular environmentally friendly as they rely on plant derived ingredients to set up the rheological profile of the composition.
Other embodiments of the invention are characterized in that the composition comprises a homo- or copolymer of acrylic acid. Preferred polymers are carbomer and/or Acrylates/C 10- 30 alkyl acrylate copolymer. If at least one homo- or copolymer of acrylic acid is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those polymers is in the range from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the compositions do comprise hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexylglycerin, phenoxyethanol.
If hydroxyacetophenone is contained, the total quantity of hydroxyacetophenone is preferable in the range from 0.05 to 0.4% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
If ethylhexylglycerin is contained, the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is preferable in the range from 0.05 to 0.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
If phenoxyethanol is contained, the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is preferable in the range from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention, it is further preferred if the composition comprises at least one moisturizer selected from the group consisting of glycerol and methylpropanediol. For the case that glycerol and/or methylpropanediol are contained, it is further preferred if the total quantity of both is in the range from 2 to14% by weight, more preferably 3 to 12% and most preferably 5 to 10% by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition.
It is preferred if glycerol is contained in a total quantity from 4 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 4.5 to 7.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Furthermore, it is preferred if silica is contained in a quantity of less than 0.3% by weight, more preferably less than 0.2% by weight and most preferably less than 0.15% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Furthermore, it is preferred if the composition according to the invention does not comprise particles consisting of silica. It is further preferred if the composition does not comprise silica dimethyl silylate.
Furthermore, it is preferred if the composition comprises at least one wax compound. In the case a wax compound is contained it is preferred of the total quantities of the wax compounds is in the range from 0.1 to 4% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
Preferred wax compounds, which can be contained in the composition of the invention, are selected from the group of natural waxes and hydrogenated waxes. Preferred are hydrogenated rapeseed oil and sunflower wax.
Furthermore, it is preferred in some embodiments of the invention if the composition comprises at least one fatty alcohol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferred fatty alcohols are stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, known under the INCI designation cetearyl alcohol. For the case that at least one fatty alcohol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of those is in the range from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions of the invention may further comprise active ingredients which can have a beneficial aspect for the human skin. Preferred examples of such active ingredients are Glycyrrhetinic acid, arctiin, folic acid, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, caffeine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, glycerylglucose, creatine, creatinine, taurine, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin C, vitamin C phosphate, vitamin C palmitate, niacinamides, vitamin A palmitate, retinol, panthenol, glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, licochalcon A, 4-butylresorcinol, N - [(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl] isobutyramide, honociol and magnolol (also as a component of Magnolia- Extracts), hyaluronic acid and / or silymarin.
Examples:
The following examples should illustrate the compositions of this invention, without intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
The following preparations were prepared and compared. Ex.1 and Ex.2 are examples according to the invention, while Com.1 and Com.2 are comparative example.
All four compositions were evaluated in a panel test. The participating volunteers had to evaluate the parameter indicated in the following table. The procedure was the following:
1. Clean the forearm and fingers with liquid soap and then with alcohol.
2. With the help of a stamp pad, draw circles of approximately 4 cm of diameter on the forearm.
3. Inside a circle, apply 10 pL of an artificial sebum (product wfk 09 D from the company Testgewebe GmbH) and spread it in circles with a cleaned finger until homogeneously spread.
4. Apply 50 pl_ of the example formulations and spread it in circles with a cleaned finger until absorption.
Evaluate the following parameters during application:
5. Wait 10 minutes
6. Place the forearm 30 cm in front of an infrared lamp
7. Spray very fine droplets of water on the test sites
8. Let the forearm 10 minutes in front of the infrared lamp while evaluating the following parameters:
8. After the 10 minutes in front of the infrared lamp, evaluate the following parameters:
The resulting scores are represented in the following table:
It can be noted that only the composition of the invention allowed for a more matte appearance. Especially after exposure to IR radiation. Furthermore, no color change was observed for the example according to the invention. It is obvious that other kind of silica particle do not have the beneficial effects.
Further examples according to the invention can be found in the following tables.

Claims

Claims
1. Cosmetic composition comprising a) at least one organic UV-filter, b) at least one inorganic pigment, and c) in addition silica cetyl silylate.
2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the composition comprises at least one water-soluble organic UV-filter.
3. Composition according to claims 2 characterized in that the total amount of water- soluble organic UV-filters in the preparation is from 0.1 to 18% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight and most preferably from 0.8% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any of the claims 2 to 3 characterized in that the water- soluble organic UV-filters are selected from the group of the compounds compounds phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate.
5. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 4 characterized in that composition comprises at least one organic UV-filter, which is selected from the group consisting of camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, homosalate, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, peg-25 paba, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl dimethyl paba, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, polysilicone-15, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, tris-biphenyl triazine / tris-biphenyl triazine and phenylene bis- diphenyltriazine.
6. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 5 characterized in that the total quantity of all organic UV-filters is in the range from 5 to 18% by weight, more preferably 7 to 15% by weight and most preferably 8.5 to 12.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 6 characterized in that the composition comprises at least one inorganic pigment, which is preferably a metal oxide.
8. Composition according to claim 7 characterized in that the inorganic pigment is selected from the group consisting of oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, manganese , aluminum, cerium, mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides, as well as the sulfate of barium.
9. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 8 characterized in that the composition comprises at least oxides of titanium and iron as inorganic pigments.
10. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 9 characterized in that the total quantity of the inorganic pigments, is in the range 2 to 14% by weight, more preferably 4 to 13% by weight and most preferably 5 to 11.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 10 characterized in that the total quantity of the inorganic pigments, which are metal oxides, is in the range 2 to 14% by weight, more preferably 4% to 12.5% by weight and most preferably 6 to 11% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 11 characterized in that metal pigments are contained in a total quantity in the range from 2 to 14% by weight, more preferably 4% to 12.5% by weight and most preferably 6 to 11% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 12 characterized in that iron oxide is contained as inorganic pigment, whereby it is preferred if the total quantity of iron oxide is in the range from 0.1 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight and most preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 13 characterized in that titanium dioxide is contained as inorganic pigment, whereby it is preferred, if the total quantity of titanium dioxide is in the range from 3.5 to 8.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 14 characterized in that the composition comprises silica cetyl silylate in a total quantity in the range from 0.1 to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 4% by weight and most preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 15 characterized in that the composition is a pickering emulsion.
17. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 16 characterized in that the composition does not comprise an emulsifier and/or a surfactant.
18. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 17 characterized in that the composition comprises at least one oil which is not an UV-filter, whereby the total quantity of the oils which are not an UV-filter is in the range from 2 to 12% by weight, more preferably 2.5 to 10% by weight and most preferably 3 to 8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.
19. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 18 characterized in that the composition comprises a homo- or copolymer of acrylic acid.
EP20734695.8A 2020-06-23 2020-06-23 Tinted sunscreen Withdrawn EP4167933A1 (en)

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