EP3873292B1

EP3873292B1 - Method for applying a hairstyling composition comprising a fixing agent

Info

Publication number: EP3873292B1
Application number: EP19797686.3A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Henri Samain; Jonathan Gawtrey
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2018-10-31
Filing date: 2019-10-31
Publication date: 2023-11-22
Anticipated expiration: 2039-10-31
Also published as: EP3873292C0; ES2970070T3; FR3087637B1; WO2020089387A1; FR3087637A1; EP3873292A1; US20210393013A1

Description

The present invention relates to the application of a hairstyling composition comprising a fixing agent for shaping the hair.
Generally, in order to shape a head of hair, the arrangement of the hair is changed and then the conferred shape is fixed.
EP 1 600 079 relates to the application of mascara to eyelashes and discloses a method for applying a hairstyling composition comprising at least one fixing agent to the hair with the aid of an applicator comprising a plurality of spikes provided with end parts having a flat shape or a cross section that decreases in the direction of their free ends, comprising a step of loading the end parts of the spikes of the applicator with the hairstyling composition, and a step of transferring the hairstyling composition retained on the end parts of the spikes of the applicator to the hair by tapping said spikes on the hair.
The most widespread devices for shaping and/or fixing a hairstyle are aerosol systems that deliver droplets of a haircare product propelled by a gas, generally a liquefied gas, based on an alcoholic or aqueous solution and polymer resins, forming fine joins between the individual hairs upon drying.
The use of a liquefied gas brings about production, use and recycling constraints. Moreover, the jet of an aerosol is not always easy to direct onto the hairstyle and spraying generally brings about losses of product, or even stains, in particular on clothing, and risks of projection onto the face, for example into the eyes, this possibly causing significant discomfort.
In addition, it is difficult to obtain both good hairstyling properties and satisfactory lacquering power, since some lacquers confer a dry feel for example on the hair, in particular on dyed hair.
Moreover, some fixing compounds are in a usually semi-solid, viscous or powdery form, and it is difficult to employ them by diffusion in the form of a spray, in particular to ensure an even distribution on all the hair to be treated. In order to make them compatible with such a diffusion process, they should be diluted highly in solvents, causing them to lose their effectiveness in terms of fixing.
Accordingly, some products with potentially promising fixing power from a haircare point of view are used only a little, if at all, in the form of a spray for reasons of incompatibility with such a dispensing form. This is the case in particular for compounds known as reactive compounds, which need to be prepared at the time of use, or for resins, which solidify upon drying and risk clogging the system after a few uses.
In order to benefit from a device that is compatible with a wide range of hairstyling compositions without spraying, the Applicant Company has developed an applicator comprising a plurality of protruding spikes that delimit, at their free ends, cavities for retaining the composition to be applied. For more details on the design of this applicator, reference may be made to the Patent Application WO-A2-2012/107887 , and in particular to the embodiments in Figures 2F, 3F and 3G.
Once the cavities of the spikes of the applicator have been loaded with composition, the composition is retained inside said cavities by capillary action before being deposited on the hair in the form of droplets.
However, the Applicant Company has observed that stiffening effects are often brought about on the hair, these being due to the formation of very wide joins, which are much larger than the size of the cavities of the spikes.
In addition to the stiffening effect on the hair, which is particularly unattractive and visible in particular when the hair moves, these very wide joins cause problems during disentangling with risks of hairs breaking on account of the strength of these large joins.
In order to reduce this stiffening problem, one solution consists in increasing the spacing of the spikes. However, this solution has the drawback of not being very effective in terms of fixing on account of the small number of joins that are created. In this case, it is necessary to provide a second application of the composition to the same area, but it is very difficult in practice to carry out this second application without applying in the same location as during the first application. Hence, there are again problems of stiffening of the hair.
Another solution consists in increasing the size of the cavities of the spikes of the applicator so as to increase, after deposition and drying of the composition, the fixing power of each individual join and thus that of the final fixing. However, with such a solution, the size of the joins is large, subsequently leading to disentangling difficulties.
Therefore, there is a need to remedy the abovementioned drawbacks and to propose a solution that makes it possible to fix the hairstyle well without producing a stiffening effect.
The subject of the invention is a method for applying a hairstyling composition comprising at least one fixing agent to the hair with the aid of an applicator comprising a plurality of spikes provided with end parts having a flat shape or a cross section that decreases in the direction of their free ends.
The method comprises:

a step of loading the end parts of the spikes of the applicator with the hairstyling composition, and
a step of transferring the hairstyling composition retained on the end parts of the spikes of the applicator to the hair by tapping said spikes on the area of the hair to be treated with the action of applying said spikes several times to said area by using a back and forth movement without the applicator being rubbed along the hair.

The flat shape of the end parts, or the section of these end parts that decreases in the direction of their free ends, promotes the retention of the composition on the applicator and then the transfer thereof to the hair in the form of films, and not in the form of droplets as is the case with the cavities of the abovementioned prior-art applicator.
Thus, after the composition has been transferred to the hair, the risk of the formation of wide joins upon drying is limited and the number of separate joins is increased. A fixing effect is thus obtained without any stiffening effect on the hair and associated inconveniences.
With the method of the invention, it is possible to apply resins that provide especially solid materials and/or reactive compounds, thereby making it possible to obtain better performance in terms of strength than existing solutions. The hairstyling composition can also be liquid or have a liquid phase. The composition is then retained on the spikes of the applicator by capillary action.
The term "spikes" is understood to mean separable protruding elements on the applicator. The spikes can have a cylindrical, conical, parallelepipedal, triangular, etc. shape.
The expression "tapping the spikes of the applicator on the hair" is understood to mean the action of applying the spikes several times to the area of the hair to be treated using a back and forth movement.
This type of application without spraying does not destroy the hairstyle and, without the applicator being rubbed along the hair, makes it possible to achieve a very high quality fixing effect, which is equivalent for example to the result obtained with a conventional aerosol lacquer, without the drawbacks thereof. In particular, it allows good distribution of the hairstyling composition.
By virtue of the invention, the composition can be applied precisely, without running. The invention gives the hairstyle a natural and long-lasting hold.
The characteristics of the films deposited on the hair, in particular the size thereof, can be controlled by choosing the dimensions of the end parts of the applicator. It is also possible to adapt the characteristics of the applicator depending on the type of application desired, in particular weaker or stronger fixing, hair design or styling, for example by choosing a higher or lower spike density and/or by choosing the material of the applicator.
The surface tensions observed at the end parts of the spikes depend on the material chosen. If the end parts are perfectly hydrophobic, it is difficult or even impossible to create films of water or aqueous composition that have satisfactory size. If the end parts are very hydrophilic, the films may not be transferred easily.
Preferably, the step of transferring the hairstyling composition to the hair is realized by directly tapping the end parts of the spikes of said applicator on the hair.
The applicator advantageously comprises a base delimiting a frontal surface from which the spikes extend. The density of spikes on the frontal surface may be between 1 and 20 per cm², and preferably between 3 and 12 per cm².
Said frontal surface of the base of the applicator may measure between 10 and 1000 cm², and preferably between 50 and 400 cm².
The total number of spikes may vary from 20 to 20 000, better still from 50 to 10 000, and preferably from 100 to 2000.
Preferably, the spikes extend in the same direction and are the same height. In order to promote uniform application of the composition, the combing spikes may be identical to one another.
The spikes may for example have a constant section over their entire height when the end parts are flat. The spikes have, for example, a section that is circular or polygonal, such as rectangular, square, etc.
The transverse dimension of the spikes may be between 0.3 mm and 3 mm, and preferably between 0.8 mm and 2 mm.
As indicated above, the end parts of the spikes are flat or have a section that decreases in the direction of their free ends. In the latter case, they can be realized for example in the form of points or portions of spheres, in particular of hemispheres. Also in the latter case, the height of the end parts can be less than or equal to four times the transverse dimension of the spikes away from said end parts.
The method according to the invention may be implemented on dry hair or wet hair. Preferably, the hair is dry.
As indicated above, the composition is transferred to the hair by tapping the spikes of the applicator. Therefore, the transfer can be executed by capillary action.
In one particular mode of implementation, it is possible to combine the tapping of the applicator with a mechanical action that helps to transfer the composition. This mechanical action may be brought about for example by a vibration generator mounted on the applicator, for example a piezoelectric element or a flyweight driven in rotation, by a pressure source, or be a thermal or electric phenomenon.
Once the composition has been transferred onto the hair, the applicator can be withdrawn and the films of composition deposited on the hair dried, for example with the aid of a hair dryer or heating hood, or left to dry naturally.
In one particular implementation example of the invention, during tapping, the applicator is subjected to an air jet. The use of an air jet may make it easier to transfer the composition onto the hair. The air jet may be an air jet that is hot, cold or at ambient temperature. The air jet may be produced by a source of compressed air or the blower of a hair dryer or hood.
As indicated above, the method comprises a prior step of loading the applicator with the hairstyling composition to be applied.
Several ways of loading the applicator with the composition are possible, depending on the desired aim, in particular styling, hair design or fixing.
Mainly, the composition can be picked up directly by the spikes of the applicator from a container containing the composition, or by the spikes being brought into contact with a support impregnated or loaded with composition. For example, the spikes of the applicator may be be pressed onto a sponge impregnated with composition, in order to be loaded with composition. The spikes of the applicator may also be brought into contact with a roller loaded with composition. In another variant, the applicator may be dipped in the composition contained in a container in order to pick the composition up directly with the spikes.
Preferably, the applicator can be cleaned after use and the composition remaining on the applicator after use can be removed easily, the applicator being cleaned for example with water or with the aid of any suitable solvent, by using an absorbent cloth, by aspiration or by gas jet, etc.
The fact that the applicator is reloadable with composition allows it to be reused.
The applicator is reloaded for example with a composition identical to the composition used previously, or it can be loaded with a different composition.
The loading of composition onto the applicator may involve the removal of excess composition from the applicator so that the composition is not present anywhere other than on the end parts of the spikes.
The compositions that can be used are in the form of liquids or gel creams, pastes, which may or may not comprise a pulverulent phase, or powder. When the composition is liquid, it may be in the form of a lotion or emulsion
Preferably, the composition is in the form of a liquid, a lotion or a fluid emulsion or a gel that is not very thick.
The viscosity of the composition varies preferably from 1 to 200 cps at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1s^-1. The viscosity measurements to which reference is made are taken using a rheometer with cone-plate geometry.
In particular, a composition known to a person skilled in the art for styling and fixing the hair may be chosen, in particular those that are introduced into aerosol devices in the presence of a propellant gas so as to be used in lacquer form.
The composition comprises at least one fixing agent, if necessary in a cosmetically acceptable medium, the latter preferably being water-, alcohol- or aqueous alcohol-based.
The cosmetic composition may in particular comprise one or more organic solvents, preferably in an amount by mass of between 0.05 and 95%, very preferably between 1 and 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
This organic solvent may be a C₂ to C₄ lower alcohol, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, polyols and polyol ethers such as propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol or glycerol. The organic solvent is preferably ethanol or isopropanol, and even more preferably is ethanol.
The composition may comprise one or more fixing polymers as fixing agent. The expression "fixing polymer" is understood to mean any polymer that makes it possible to give a shape to the hair or to hold the hair in a given shape.
All the anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic fixing polymers and mixtures thereof that are used may be used as fixing polymers in the compositions to be applied to the hair using the method of the invention. For more details on the fixing polymers that can be used, reference may be made for example to the abovementioned Patent Application WO-A2-2012/107887 .
As regards the applicator, it may be rigid, semi-rigid or flexible. The support is preferably made of a non-absorbent material. The term "non-absorbent" is understood to mean intrinsically impermeable to the composition, that is to say not allowing the diffusion of the composition inside it. The non-absorbent material may be for example a metallic or thermoplastic material, in particular chosen from polyolefins, and polyamides including nylons and polyester.
The present invention will be understood better from studying the detailed description of embodiments that are given by way of entirely non-limiting example and are illustrated by the appended drawings, in which:

Figures 1 and 2 illustrate an application method according to one implementation example of the invention,
Figure 3 is a front view of an applicator used in the application method in Figures 1 and 2,
Figures 4 and 5 are cross-sectional views on the axes IV-IV and V-V, respectively, in Figure 3,
Figure 6 is a detail view of Figure 5, and
Figure 7 is a detail view of another applicator used in another implementation example of the method of the invention.

The method according to the invention can be implemented directly by the consumer in order to position or touch up his or her hairstyle, as is illustrated in Figures 1 and 2. Alternatively, the method can be implemented in a professional setting.
The method of the invention is implemented with the aid of an applicator 10 for applying a hairstyling composition comprising at least one fixing agent to the consumer's hair. The composition is transferred from the applicator 10 to the hair by tapping said applicator. In Figure 2, the amplitude of the movement effected by the consumer to carry out this tapping movement has been exaggerated in order to be more visible.
The applicator 10 is pre-loaded with composition to be applied before the step of transferring to the hair by tapping.
As illustrated more clearly in Figures 3 to 5, the applicator 10 comprises a base 12 and a plurality of pins or spikes 14 extending therefrom. In the exemplary embodiment illustrated, the applicator 10 also comprises a tab 16 to make it easier to hold and handle. The tab 16 extends from the base 12 on the opposite side from the spikes 14. Alternatively, it is possible for the applicator 10 not to have such a tab.
The base 12 has a circular overall shape. In a variant, it is possible to provide other shapes, for example polygonal, oval, etc. for the base.
The spikes 14 make it possible to apply the composition to the consumer's hair. The spikes 14 extend transversely with respect to the base 12. The longitudinal axes of the spikes 14 are mutually parallel. The spikes 14 are preferably identical to one another. The spikes 14 extend from a frontal surface of the base 12. This frontal surface is in this case flat. In a variant, it could be slightly convex or concave.
In the exemplary embodiment illustrated, the spikes 14 are spaced apart regularly from one another. Depending on the spacing of the spikes 14, the fixing effect of one and the same composition will be different. By way of indication, the spacing or distance between the spikes 14 may be between 2 mm and 8 mm. Alternatively, it might be possible to provide an inter-spike 14 spacing that is not regular, for example when the composition is intended to be deposited in a particular pattern.
The spikes 14 have an elongate shape. In the exemplary embodiment illustrated, the spikes 14 have a cylindrical overall shape. Alternatively, the spikes 14 can have other shapes. The spikes 14 have in this case a height of 5 mm. In other embodiments, it is possible to provide a height of between 2 mm and 40 mm, and preferably between 3 mm and 20 mm. The applicator comprises in this case more than 100 spikes. In a variant, it is possible to provide a different number of spikes.
As illustrated more clearly in Figure 6, each spike 14 comprises an end part 14a with a rounded shape, in this case a spherical shape. The height of the end part 14a of the spike is preferably less than or equal to four times the diameter of said spike. By way of indication, the diameter of each spike 14 is in this case 1.5 mm. In other embodiments, it is possible to provide a spike diameter of between 0.3 mm and 3 mm, and preferably between 0.8 mm and 2 mm.
As indicated above, the end parts 14a of the spikes have in this case a spherical shape. In a variant, it is possible to provide other convex or domed shapes. Alternatively, the end parts 14a can also be in the form of a point. More generally, each end part 14a of the spikes can have a section that decreases in the direction of its free end. In another variant, as is illustrated in Figure 7, the end parts 14a can have a flat shape. The end parts 14a of the spikes do not have or are free of cavities.
The applicator 10 can be made in one piece by moulding a rigid plastics material, for example PP, PE, HDPE, etc., or a flexible plastics material. In a variant, it might be possible to produce the spikes 14 by overmoulding on the base, if for example a more flexible material is intended to be used for the spikes.
For application to the hair, the user can act as follows.
First of all, the user loads composition onto the end parts 14a of the spikes of the applicator, for example by dipping them into a container containing the composition.
Then, the user brings the end parts 14a of the spikes of the applicator into contact with the hair and gently taps these end parts against the hair, this having the effect of depositing the composition on the hair by capillary action. Each end part 14a allows the composition to be deposited in the form of a film.
This application movement by tapping is natural for a user, since it is reminiscent of the manner in which powder is applied to the face with the aid of a powder puff. The hairstyle can thus be shaped and/or touched up in a particularly simple and easy manner.

Claims

Method for applying a hairstyling composition comprising at least one fixing agent to the hair with the aid of an applicator comprising a plurality of spikes provided with end parts having a flat shape or a cross section that decreases in the direction of their free ends, comprising:
- a step of loading the end parts of the spikes of the applicator with the hairstyling composition, and

- a step of transferring the hairstyling composition retained on the end parts of the spikes of the applicator to the hair by tapping said spikes on the area of the hair to be treated with the action of applying said spikes several times to said area by using a back and forth movement without the applicator being rubbed along the hair.
Method according to Claim 1, wherein the step of transferring the hairstyling composition to the hair is realized by directly tapping the end parts of the spikes of said applicator on the hair.
Method according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the applicator comprises a base delimiting a frontal surface from which the spikes extend, the density of spikes on said frontal surface being between 1 and 20 per cm², and preferably between 3 and 12 per cm².
Method according to Claim 3, wherein said frontal surface of the base of the applicator measures between 10 and 1000 cm², and preferably between 50 and 400 cm².
Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total number of spikes on the applicator is between 20 and 20 000, notably from 50 to 10 000, and preferably from 100 to 2000.
Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the transverse dimension of the spikes is between 0.3 mm and 3 mm, and preferably between 0.8 mm and 2 mm.
Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the height of the end parts of decreasing cross section is less than or equal to four times the transverse dimension of the spikes.
Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the length of the spikes is between 2 mm and 40 mm, and preferably between 3 mm and 20 mm.
Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the applicator is loaded with the hairstyling composition by the latter being picked up directly by the spikes of the applicator from a container containing said composition, or by the spikes being brought into contact with a support impregnated or loaded with composition.
Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the spikes of said applicator are made of a non-absorbent material.