EP3807459A1 - Method for the conditioning of textiles and conditioned textiles produced thereby - Google Patents
Method for the conditioning of textiles and conditioned textiles produced therebyInfo
- Publication number
- EP3807459A1 EP3807459A1 EP19731776.1A EP19731776A EP3807459A1 EP 3807459 A1 EP3807459 A1 EP 3807459A1 EP 19731776 A EP19731776 A EP 19731776A EP 3807459 A1 EP3807459 A1 EP 3807459A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- porous solid
- solid thermoplastic
- textile
- thermoplastic particles
- enzyme
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
- D06B11/0093—Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material
- D06B11/0096—Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material to get a faded look
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
- D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
- D06L1/14—De-sizing
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
- D06L4/40—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using enzymes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M23/00—Treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, characterised by the process
- D06M23/08—Processes in which the treating agent is applied in powder or granular form
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/15—Locally discharging the dyes
- D06P5/158—Locally discharging the dyes with other compounds
Definitions
- the present invention is concerned with a method for the conditioning of textiles and to textiles produced by this method.
- the method is particularly suited to desizing textiles and giving new textiles a faded appearance.
- non-porous solid thermoplastic particles of a defined shape it is possible to overcome the problems mentioned above.
- these particles are of benefit not just in denim stone washing but in a number of textile conditioning applications where they are able to enhance the effectiveness, recoverability and reuse of the conditioning enzyme.
- Figure 1 shows a scanning electron microscope image of the surface of a non-porous solid thermoplastic particle comprising polypropylene (38wt%) and barium sulfate filler (62wt%) having a density of 1.63 g/cm 3 and size of 7mm prepared by hot melt extrusion.
- Figure 2 shows a scanning electron microscope image of the surface of a porous solid polypropylene particle, AccurelTM MP100 from 3M.
- Figure 3 shows a scanning electron microscope image of the surface of a second porous solid polypropylene particle, AccurelTM XP100-84 from 3M.
- Figure 4 shows a scanning electron microscope image of the surface of a sample of pumice stone.
- Figure 5 shows a comparison of the surfaces of the particles from Figures 1 to 4 opposite a qualitative roughness scale.
- Figure 6 shows optical micrographs to demonstrate the curvilinear shape of the 4mm and 7mm non-porous solid thermoplastic particles.
- a method for conditioning a textile comprising agitating the textile with a plurality of non-porous solid thermoplastic particles with a size in the range of from 0.1 mm to 100mm, a liquid medium, and an enzyme; wherein the particles comprise a curvilinear surface.
- the method is not and does not comprise cleaning.
- the method is not and does not comprise laundering. Accordingly, it is preferred that conditioning preferably does not include cleaning and/or laundering.
- the textile prior to conditioning in the method of the present invention is clean.
- clean it is meant that the textile is free or substantially free from dirt, sweat and stains.
- the textile prior to the method according to the first aspect of the present invention the textile has been cleaned. Clean may also refer to the textile during the manufacturing process or having been manufactured but prior to use or wear by the intended user of the textile.
- conditioning preferably means an enzyme-mediated change to the textile properties, in particular to the surface properties, of the textile. This can encompass a number of conditioning methods according to the first aspect of the present invention such as:
- conditioning is or comprises desizing and the enzyme is or comprises an amylase.
- Bioscouring preferably where pectate lyase and/or polygalacturonase are used to remove pectin impurities from cotton;
- the conditioning is or comprises bioscouring and the enzyme is or comprises a pectate lyase and/or polygalacturonase.
- Fabric biofinishing preferably where cellulase is used, more preferably prior to dyeing, to reduce pilling and create a higher quality surface by removing the fibrils that make the textile surface rough;
- the conditioning is or comprises biofinishing and the enzyme is or comprises a cellulase.
- Fading preferably using an enzyme to give the textile an aged or less lively appearance such as cotton (preferably denim) finishing
- the enzyme is preferably a cellulase, a laccase, a peroxidase, a polygalacturonase, a pectin lyase, or a catalase or a mixture thereof.
- the conditioning comprises fading and the enzyme is or comprises a cellulase, a laccase, a peroxidase, a polygalacturonase, a pectin lyase, or a catalase or a mixture thereof.
- the textile is or comprises a natural, synthetic or semi-synthetic fibre, or a mixture thereof.
- the textile is or comprises a cellulosic material, polyester, or a mixture thereof, silk, wool or chiffon.
- the textile is or comprises a cellulosic material which is more preferably a cellulosic fibre.
- suitable cellulosic materials include hemp, linen, flax, jute, ramie, sisal and especially cotton.
- the textile is or comprises cotton and more preferably denim.
- the textile may be either coloured or uncoloured. If the textile is coloured then it may be coloured with a pigment or a dye or a combination thereof. Preferably the textile is coloured by a dye.
- a dye i.e. dyed
- the textile may be dyed by any of the dyes known to be suitable in the art.
- the dye is an indigoid or sulfur dye, more preferably if the textile is dyed then it is dyed with indigo.
- the indigo used to dye the textile may be either natural or synthetic.
- the textile can a shade which is blue, purple or black.
- the textile is preferably agitated in an amount of at least 1 Kg, at least 5Kg, at least 10 Kg, at least 15Kg, at least 20Kg, at least 25Kg or at least 50 Kg.
- the amount of textile agitated is preferably no more than 10,000Kg and especially no more than 1 ,000Kg.
- these amounts of textile refer to the amount which is loaded into a suitable apparatus for performing the method according to the first aspect of the present invention to form a single conditioning load along with the plurality of non-porous solid thermoplastic particles, the liquid medium and the enzyme.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles preferably are or comprise a polymeric material preferably selected from the group consisting of a poly(haloalkylene), a polyester, a polyamide, a polyalkylene, a polyurethane, a polystyrene, and a copolymer or mixture thereof.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are or comprise a polymeric material preferably selected from the group consisting of a poly(haloalkylene), a polyester, a polyalkylene, a polyurethane, a polystyrene, and a copolymer or mixture thereof.
- a polymeric material preferably selected from the group consisting of a poly(haloalkylene), a polyester, a polyalkylene, a polyurethane, a polystyrene, and a copolymer or mixture thereof.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are or comprise a polyalkylene and/or a poly(haloalkylene) such as a polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), and preferably the non- porous solid thermoplastic particles are or comprise a polyalkylene or a poly(haloalkylene) such as a polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). More preferably the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are or comprise a poly C ⁇ alkylene, especially a polypropylene and more especially a high density polypropylene. Non-porous solid thermoplastic particles which are or comprise polyalkylenes are especially reusable, cleanable and can be readily used in multi-step variations of the present invention especially when desizing and/or a second conditioning step are to be performed either in sequence or simultaneously.
- PTFE polytetrafluoroethylene
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are or comprise a poly C ⁇ alkylene, especially a polypropylene and more especially a high density polyprop
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles comprise at least 20wt%, more preferably at least 30wt% and especially at least 40wt% of said polymeric material.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles comprise at least 20wt% of a polyalkylene or a poly(haloalkylene), more preferably at least 30wt% of a polyalkylene or a poly(haloalkylene) and especially at least 40wt% of a polyalkylene or a poly(haloalkylene).
- non-porous solid thermoplastic particles comprise at least 40wt% polypropylene, especially high density polypropylene.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are hydrophobic.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are or comprise a polymeric material which is hydrophobic.
- Preferred polymeric materials which are hydrophobic comprise few or, more preferably, no hydrophilic groups within their structure. Examples of hydrophilic groups which are preferably absent include ionic groups such as carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid, phosphonic acid and boronic acid as well as hydrophilic non-ionic groups such as -OFI, -SH, - NH2, -NH-, - (OCH2CH2)- and the like.
- the polymeric material comprises only carbon and hydrogen atoms. Examples of which include polyalkylenes, especially polypropylene.
- hydrophobic it is preferably meant that the polymeric material and/or non-porous solid thermoplastic particles have a large contact angle with water.
- the polymeric material and/or non-porous solid thermoplastic particles preferably have a contact angle of at least 50, at least 55, at least 60, at least 65, at least 70, at least 75, at least 80, at least 85, at least 90, at least 95 or at least 100° with pure water.
- the solid particles and/or polymeric material have a contact angle of no more than 120, more preferably no more than 115° with pure water. Pure water is preferably distilled water.
- the measurement is recorded at a temperature of 20°C or 25°C.
- the relative humidity for measuring the contact angle is 65% RH.
- the contact angle is suitably measured as per international standard ISO 15989:2004.
- the contact angle can also be, and preferably is, measured using a contact angle telescope-goniometer (for instance using equipment available from Rame-Hart), in which the method comprises direct measurement of the tangent angle at the three-phase contact point on a sessile droplet profile.
- a static contact angle method is preferred.
- a planar sample of the polymeric material of the solid particle is preferably used for the measurement.
- the droplet is preferably backlit.
- the polymeric material and/or non-porous solid thermoplastic particles preferably have a contact angle with water in the range of from 50° to 110°, more preferably in the range of from 60° to 105°.
- non-porous it is preferably meant that the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles have a water absorption less than 3.0wt%, more preferably less than 2.0wt%, even more preferably less than 1.0wt%, especially less than 0.5wt%, more especially less than 0.1wt% and most especially less than 0.05wt%, relative to the weight of the dry non-porous solid thermoplastic particles.
- the water absorption was measured in accordance with the method, ASTM D570. In this method the particles are dried at 50°C to 60°C in an oven for 24 hours and then placed in a desiccator to cool. Immediately upon cooling the particles are weighed.
- the particles are then immersed in water for 24 hours, preferably at a temperature of 25°C. After this contact period, any water merely on the outside of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles is removed, suitably by dabbing the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles on a filter paper. After dabbing, the wet weight (Ww) of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles is recorded. The dry weight (Wd) of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles is established, preferably after vacuum drying of the particles. The weight% of water absorption is then given by 100x (Ww - Wd) / Wd.
- Another way to determine the porosity of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles is to immerse them in a suitable oil, such as a vegetable oil, containing an oil-soluble dye such as Sudan 111. If the particles are porous the dye will enter the pores and remain there after separation from the oil and rinsing in water. The relative degree of porosity can be estimated by an increase in colour or weight of the porous particles relative to the non-porous particles.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are preferably inert.
- inert it is preferably meant that the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles have few or no functional groups which are capable of reacting or being oxidized.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles preferably have no hydroxy, acid or amine groups.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles preferably have a size of no more than 40mm, no more than 30mm, no more than 25mm, no more than 20mm, no more than 15mm or no more than 10mm.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles preferably have a size of at least 0.5mm, at least 1 mm, at least 2mm, at least 3mm or at least 4mm.
- non-porous solid thermoplastic particles have a size in the range of from 1 to 20mm.
- the surface area of a non-porous solid thermoplastic particle is preferably from 10mm 2 to 400mm 2 , more preferably from 40 to 200mm 2 and especially from 50 to 190mm 2 .
- the size is preferably a mean average size, more preferably an arithmetic mean average size.
- the arithmetic mean is preferably taken from at least 100, at least 1000 or at least 10,000 non-porous solid thermoplastic particles.
- the size is preferably the longest linear dimension of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particle.
- the method of measuring the particle size is preferably performed by using callipers or a particle size measurement using image analysis, especially dynamic image analysis.
- a preferred apparatus for dynamic image analysis is a Camsizer as provided by Retsch.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles preferably have a density of at least 0.5g/cm 3 , at least 0.75g/cm 3 , at least 0.9g/cm 3 , at least 1.0 g/cm 3 , at least 1.1 g/cm 3 , at least 1.2 g/cm 3 , at least 1.25 g/cm 3 , at least 1.30 g/cm 3 , at least 1.35 g/cm 3 , at least 1.40 g/cm 3 , at least 1.45 g/cm 3 , at least 1.50 g/cm 3 , at least 1.55 g/cm 3 , at least 1.60 g/cm 3 , at least 1.65 g/cm 3 , at least 1.70 g/cm 3 , at least 1.75 g/cm 3 , at least 1.80 g/cm 3 , at least 1.85 g/cm 3 or at least 1.90
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles preferably have a density of no more than 10.0 g/cm 3 , no more than 8.0 g/cm 3 , no more than 6.0 g/cm 3 , no more than 4.0 g/cm 3 , no more than 3.0 g/cm 3 , no more than 2.5 g/cm 3 , no more than 2.2 g/cm 3 and especially no more than 2.0 g/cm 3 .
- the density of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles is preferably in the range of from 0.5 to 4.0 g/cm 3 , more preferably in the range of from 1.0 g/cm 3 to 3.0 g/cm 3 and especially in the range of from 1.1 to 3.0 g/cm 3 .
- densities of no more than 1.8, 1.6, 1.5 and 1.4 g/cm 3 are also of value in the present invention.
- Cleanability as used herein preferably means the ability to remove from the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles any fragments and components derived from the textile after the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles have been used in the method of the present invention. This is especially desirable where the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are re-used in one or more subsequent methods according to the first aspect of the present invention.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are more dense than the liquid medium, more preferably more dense than water and especially more dense than water comprising the relevant amounts of any optional additives.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles comprise a filler.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles comprise a polymeric material, as described and preferred above and a filler, which is preferably an inorganic salt.
- a filler which is preferably an inorganic salt.
- the presence of a filler can have several advantages such as increasing the colour reduction in a denim finishing process and improving the ease of separating and recovering the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles from the textile after agitation.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles comprise a polymeric material and a filler in a weight ratio in the range of from 90:10 to 20:80 and more preferably in the range of from 70:30 to 30:70 (polymeric materiakfiller).
- the non- porous solid thermoplastic particles suitably comprise a polymeric material and filler in a weight ratio of no less than 50:50, more preferably no less than 70:30 and especially no less than 90:10 of polymeric materiakfiller.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles can comprise at least 5wt%, at least 10wt%, at least 20wt%, at least 30wt%, at least 35wt%, at least 40wt%, at least 45wt% or at least 50wt% of filler, which is preferably an inorganic filler.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles comprise at least 20wt% filler, particularly where faster and/or more efficient separation of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles from the textile is desired.
- the remainder of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles required to make 100wt% is preferably said polymeric material.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles can comprise no more than 90wt%, no more than 80wt%, and no more than 70wt% of filler, which is preferably an inorganic filler.
- the remainder of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles required to make 100wt% is preferably said polymeric material.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles comprise a filler in the range of from 20wt% to 80wt%.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles can comprise a polymeric component and up to 30wt% of a filler.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles comprise a polymeric component and no filler (and in particular no inorganic filler).
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles can have any shape which comprises a curvilinear surface.
- Preferred particles are ellipsoidal or spherical including any shape therebetween.
- Other suitable particle shapes include egg shaped, potato shaped, a cylinder with hemispherical ends, discs, and biconcave or monoconcave discs.
- at least 60%, at least 70wt%, at least 80wt%, at least 90wt% or at least 95wt% of the surface of the non- porous solid thermoplastic particles is a curvilinear surface.
- Preferably all of the surface of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles is curvilinear.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles have a shape which is ellipsoidal or spherical as these shapes tend to be gentler to the textile surface and they tend to separate well from the textile after performing the methods described herein.
- Such particle shapes have also been shown by the present inventors to permit more effective and/or better re-usability of the enzyme utilized in the method of the present invention.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles have an aspect ratio of no more than 1.5, more preferably no more than 1.4, especially no more than 1.3 and most especially no more than 1.2.
- the aspect ratio is the ratio of the longest linear dimension to the shortest linear dimension for each particle.
- the aspect ratio is a mean, especially an arithmetic mean.
- the average is of at least 100, more preferably at least 1000 and especially at least 10,000 non-porous solid thermoplastic particles.
- starshaped particles do not comprise a curvilinear surface.
- star-shaped particles are not suitable for or intended for use in the first aspect of the present invention.
- the non- porous solid thermoplastic particles are not crown-shaped.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles have a smooth surface.
- smooth it is meant that they have minimal abrasive surface features which could damage the textile.
- the particle surface is substantially free from edges and/or vertices. This is illustrated in Figures 1 to 5 where SEM images show the difference in surface roughness of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles as compared to the prior art particles.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles do not in any way become permanently attached, affixed, integrated or associated with the textile in the method of the first aspect of the present invention.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles may be readily separated from the textile at the end of the method according to the first aspect of the present invention and so are preferably not substantively consumed by the process.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are separated from the textile after agitation.
- non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are of such a size that does not permit them to enter inside the textile structure.
- the amount of non-porous solid thermoplastic particles used in the method of the first aspect of the present invention is from 1 to 3000kg, preferably from 1 to 2000kg, more preferably from 10kg to 100kg, even more preferably from 10kg to 50kg.
- the weight ratio of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles to dry textile is in the range of from 10: 1 to 0.1 : 1 and more preferably is in the range of from 5: 1 to 0.5: 1.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are re-usable, especially re usable in further methods according to the first aspect of the present invention.
- Re-usable non- porous solid thermoplastic particles are not soluble or dissolvable (i.e. they are insoluble) in the liquid medium, more especially in aqueous liquid media and most especially in pure water.
- no more than 0.5% by weight, more preferably no more than 0.2% by weight, and especially no more than 0.1 % of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles dissolves in water at 25°C over a period of 24 hours when 1 0g of non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are mixed with 99. Og of pure water.
- the liquid medium is aqueous.
- the liquid medium preferably is or comprises water.
- these other liquids may be organic liquids such as alcohols, esters, ethers, amides and the like.
- the liquid medium comprises at least 50wt%, at least 60wt%, at least 70wt%, at least 80wt%, at least 90wt%, at least 95wt% or at least 99wt% of water.
- the liquid medium consists of water.
- the liquid medium is or comprises softened water, especially water containing less than 100mg of calcium per litre, more preferably less than 50mg of calcium per litre, especially less than 20mg of calcium per litre and most especially less than 10mg of calcium per litre.
- the liquid medium is or comprises water which contains less than 100mg of dissolved salts per litre, more preferably less than 50mg of dissolved salts per litre, especially less than 20mg of dissolved salt per litre, more especially less than 10mg of dissolved salt per litre.
- the pH of the liquid medium is at least 1.0, at least 2.0, at least 3.0 or at least 4.0.
- the pH of the liquid medium is no more than 13.0, no more than 12.0, no more than 11.0, no more than 10.0, no more than 9.0, no more than 8.0, no more than 7.0 or no more than 6.5.
- the conditioning method comprises fading a dyed denim then preferably the pH is in the range of from 3.0 to 11.0, more preferably in the range of from 4.0 to 8.0, especially in the range of from pH 4.0 to 6.5.
- the liquid medium has a temperature of at least 0°C, at least 2°C, at least 5°C, at least 10°C, at least 15°C or at least 20°C.
- the liquid medium has a temperature of no more than 100°C, no more than 90°C, no more than 80°C, no more than 70°C, no more than 60°C, no more than 50°C or no more than 40°C.
- the liquid medium has a temperature in the range of from 5 to 70°C and more preferably in the range of from 5°C to 40°C.
- the pH of the liquid medium can be adjusted to suit the chemistry of any additional components.
- the weight ratio of liquid medium to dry textile is at least 1 : 1 , more preferably at least 2: 1 and especially at least 4: 1.
- the weight ratio of liquid medium to dry textile is no more than 100: 1 , more preferably no more than 70:1 , especially no more than 50:1 , more especially no more than 40:1 , and yet more especially no more than 20: 1.
- the lower levels of water used in the present invention differentiate the method of the present invention from the prior art.
- the enzyme to be used in the method of the present invention depends on what the desired conditioning step is and the conditions under which the method will be carried out (pH, temperature etc.). Thus, if the conditioning step is or comprises the desizing of a textile then the enzyme is or comprises an amylase. [0078] If the conditioning step is or comprises the fading of a textile, preferably to give it an aged appearance, then the enzyme is or comprises any of the following: a cellulase, a laccase, a polygalacturonase, a pectin lyase, a peroxidase (preferably in the presence of hydrogen peroxide) or a catalase (preferably in the presence of hydrogen peroxide). Of course, the preferred enzyme will match the materials of the textile. Preferably, the textile is or comprises cotton and the enzyme is or comprises a cellulase.
- the conditioning step is or comprises changing the appearance of textiles such as wool or silk then the enzyme is preferably a protease.
- the conditioning method of the present invention may comprise a cleaning step comprising one or more lipase(s) in order to remove oily stains picked up during a textile processing step.
- a cleaning step may be conducted prior to, during or after the
- Such a cleaning step is suitably conducted by agitating the textile with said particles and said lipase(s) in said liquid medium.
- the enzyme is or comprises one or more of; a protease, a cellulase, a laccase, a peroxidase, an amylase, a polygalacturonase, a pectin lyase or a catalase.
- a notable and surprising advantage of the present invention is that the enzyme can be re-used, preferably in further methods for conditioning according to the first aspect of the present invention.
- at least some (preferably at least 10%, more preferably at least 25%, even more preferably at least 50%) of the enzyme is re-used, preferably in at least one further method according to the first aspect of the present invention.
- a preferred method for re using at least some of the enzyme is to recover at least some of the liquid medium and at least some of the enzyme after the method according to the first aspect of the present invention and then to use this recovered liquid medium/enzyme in a subsequent method according to the first aspect of the present invention.
- a first preferred embodiment of the first aspect of the present invention provides a method which is or comprises fading a dyed textile, preferably dyed cotton, more preferably dyed denim (a process also known as stonewashing).
- the textile is preferably dyed with an indigoid dye, preferably indigo dye, or sulfur dye. So here the conditioning is in the form of fading the colour of the textile.
- the conditioning is or comprises fading a dyed textile and the enzyme is or comprises a cellulase, a laccase, a peroxidase, a polygalacturonase, a pectin lyase, a catalase or a mixture thereof.
- the conditioning method is or comprises fading, the textile is or comprises cotton and the enzyme is or comprises a cellulase.
- this method is or comprises fading a dyed denim and the enzyme is or comprises a cellulase.
- the enzyme may be any enzyme able to bring about fading of the textile but preferably the enzyme comprises, and preferably consists of, a cellulase.
- Suitable cellulases include cellulase LT, especially cellulase LT 19500 L commercially available from Novozymes, Ecostone® LT from AB
- a second preferred embodiment of the first aspect of the present invention provides a method of desizing a textile.
- the conditioning is in the form of desizing.
- the conditioning is or comprises desizing and the enzyme is or comprises an amylase.
- the conditioning of the textile is or comprises desizing.
- the enzyme is or preferably comprises an amylase.
- the present invention provides a method which comprises conditioning a textile by desizing with a plurality of non-porous solid thermoplastic particles and amylase.
- the coloured textile initially has starch size on its surface.
- the desizing step removes the starch size.
- desizing is performed at a temperature of at least 0°C, more preferably at least 5°C, even more preferably at least 10°C, especially at least 15°C and most especially at least 20°C.
- desizing is performed at a temperature of no more than 60°C, more preferably no more than 50°C and especially no more than 40°C.
- desizing is performed at a temperature of from 5 to 60°C, more preferably from 20 to 40°C.
- desizing is performed in a liquid medium having a pH of from 4.0 to 8.0, more preferably from 6.0 to 7.0.
- Any suitable commercial enzyme may be used, depending on the agitation conditions and the textile, for example, Beisol T 2090, from CHT Group, include Aquazym® R L from Novozymes, PrimaGreen® ALL from DuPont, or Stainzyme® Plus L from Novozymes. Desizinq and Further Conditioning
- a third preferred embodiment of the first aspect of the present invention provides a method of desizing a textile combined with a further conditioning step of the textile, preferably wherein said further conditioning step is fading a textile.
- the method according to the third preferred embodiment of the present invention comprises:
- steps (i) and (ii) may be performed simultaneously or in order.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles used in step (ii) are the same as the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles of step (i).
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles used in step (ii) are the same non-porous solid thermoplastic particles used in step (i) and optionally recovered therefrom.
- the same batch of non-porous solid thermoplastic particles used for step (i) are used in step (ii).
- thermoplastic particles are or comprise a polyalkylene. This allows the method to be performed with little or no cleaning of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles between steps (i) and (ii), which means that the overall method is more efficient, quicker and more economic.
- step (i) of the third preferred embodiment of the first aspect of the invention the conditions are as preferred for desizing in the second preferred embodiment of the invention.
- Step (ii) of the third preferred embodiment of the first aspect of the invention is preferably a method of fading as in the first preferred embodiment of the present invention.
- step (ii) of the third preferred embodiment is preferably a method which is or comprises fading and preferably wherein the enzyme is or comprises a cellulase.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are preferably separated from the textile after the method. [00105] Preferably, after separation the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are re-used, more preferably they are re-used in further methods according to the first aspect of the present invention.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles are re used at least 1 time, at least 3 times, at least 5 times, at least 10 times, at least 50 times, at least 100 times, at least 250 times, at least 500 times, at least 1 ,000 times or at least 2,000 times.
- a preferred method comprises:
- a method for conditioning a textile comprising agitating the textile with a plurality of non-porous solid thermoplastic particles with a size in the range of from 0.1 to 100mm, a liquid medium, and an enzyme; wherein the particles comprise a curvilinear surface;
- re-using the separated particles in one or more further methods for conditioning a textile comprising agitating the textile with a plurality of non-porous solid thermoplastic particles with a size in the range of from 0.1 to 100mm, a liquid medium, and an enzyme; wherein the particles comprise a curvilinear surface.
- Agitation in the method according to the first aspect of the present invention can be performed by stirring, rotating, shaking, vibrating and/or sonicating the textile, non-porous solid thermoplastic particles, liquid medium and enzyme. Agitation is preferably performed by rotating, especially by rotating a treatment chamber in which is contained the coloured textile, the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles, liquid medium and enzyme.
- the agitation is performed in a treatment chamber.
- the treatment chamber is a cylinder, more preferably a rotatable cylinder.
- the agitation is performed by rotating a cylindrical treatment chamber such that the centrifugal G force experienced at the inner walls of the chamber is from 0.05 to 2G, more preferably from 0.05 to 1 G and especially from 0.1 to 0.9G.
- Apparatus suitable for performing the method according to the first aspect of the present invention preferably includes those described in PCT patent publications:
- the agitation is performed within an apparatus comprising a treatment chamber (especially a rotatable cylinder) and optionally a particle storage tank or particle storage compartment.
- the apparatus for performing the method is capable of automatically separating the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles from the textile after the agitation. This can be achieved by holes in the treatment chamber which are larger than the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles but smaller than the textile or can be achieved by transferring the particles into a storage compartment which is preferably located on an outer wall of the treatment chamber.
- agitation is performed by means of an apparatus which comprises one or more nozzles which are configured so as to direct a jet of liquid medium which can impinge upon the textile.
- the apparatus may comprise a pump.
- the pump is preferably configured so as to be able to transfer liquid medium and non-porous solid thermoplastic particles from the particle storage tank to the treatment chamber.
- the pump is activated during at least some, more preferably at least 10% of the time, so that non-porous solid thermoplastic particles and liquid medium are recirculated over the textile.
- the enzyme is premixed with the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles. Premixing is preferably performed in the absence of the textile. Premixing is preferably performed in a liquid medium, preferably the liquid medium of the first aspect of the invention.
- the particles can be cleaned after each method for conditioning a textile or they may be cleaned less frequently.
- a surprising advantage of the present invention is that the particles are easily cleaned and/or require less frequent cleaning.
- the particles are cleaned less frequently than every 2, more preferably less frequently than every 3 and especially less frequently than every 5 conditioning methods.
- the particles can be cleaned with (fresh or clean) liquid medium.
- the liquid medium used to clean the particles comprises a surfactant.
- the particles are preferably cleaned at a temperature of from 5 to 40°C
- a conditioned textile obtained or obtainable by the method according to the first aspect of the present invention.
- textiles prepared by the method according to the first aspect of the present invention have, compared to textiles prepared by prior art methods (i.e. methods which do not comprise agitating the textile with a plurality of non-porous solid thermoplastic particles with a size in the range of from 0.1 to 100mm, a liquid medium, and an enzyme; wherein the particles comprise a curvilinear surface), good softness and/or a better reduction in colour intensity whilst maintaining the mechanical strength of the textile.
- many denim bleaching processes can obtain good colour reduction but often at the undesirable expense of mechanical properties.
- any items expressed in the singular are also intended to encompass the plural unless stated to the contrary.
- words such as“a” and“an” mean one or more. So by example an enzyme means one or more enzymes and a textile means one or more textiles.
- Non-porous solid thermoplastic particles comprising polypropylene (PP) (38wt%) and barium sulfate filler (62wt%) having a density of 1.63 g/cm 3 and a size of either 4mm or 7mm were prepared by hot melt extrusion.
- Porous solid polypropylene particles 1 were semi-cylinder particles (AccurelTM MP100) obtained from 3M which had a size of 3mm.
- Porous solid polypropylene particles 2 were 3mm porous PP pellets (AccurelTM XP100- 84) from 3M.
- Ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) rubber balls containing 20% by weight MgO EPDM rubber balls obtained from The Precision Plastic Ball Company Ltd, MgO mesh 100 (147 pm) obtained from Fischer Scientific) were made by coating the EPDM rubber balls with white silicon sealant and then rolling in MgO to cover the surface of the balls.
- Marloquest® G82 a polyester copolymer which was obtained from Sasol Limited
- PalononTM CAF a non-ionic surfactant which was obtained from CHT Group.
- LutensolTM AT80 dispersant which was obtained from BASF
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles were removed from their solutions using a strainer and bench-dried for 24 hr. The non-porous solid thermoplastic particles were then rinsed with cold water and left to dry for a further 24 hr. The weight of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles was recorded before and after the rinsing and drying process and all particles were subsequently measured for any colour change.
- the porosity of the porous solid polypropylene particles 1 was determined as above except that porous solid polypropylene particles 1 (4g) were used in place of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles.
- the tumbler was sealed and placed onto the accompanying tumbling mechanism which was set to 1 on the speed setting (-120 rpm) with multi-directional tumbling. 1 Hour later, the tumbler was stopped, and the denim swatches were removed and rinsed with hot water at about 50°C.
- the fading level of each of the denim samples was determined by measuring the reflectance value with pre-calibrated Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrometer. Two readings were taken for each sample. The fading level was evaluated with the index CIE Lab colour space L* (lightness) unit and delta E (DE) which the Konica Minolta calculates from the L*, a* and b* data.
- Comparative Example 1 was performed exactly as described in Example 1 except that no solid particles were used.
- Comparative Example 2 was performed exactly as described in Example 1 except that the 7mm non-porous solid thermoplastic particles were replaced with the porous solid polypropylene particles 1.
- Comparative Example 3 was performed exactly as described in Example 1 except that the 7mm non-porous solid thermoplastic particles were replaced with 60g nuts and magnets.
- Comparative Example 4 was performed exactly as described in Example 2 except that no solid particles were used.
- Comparative Example 5 was performed exactly as described in Example 2 except that the 7mm non-porous solid thermoplastic particles were replaced with 39g EPDM rubber balls containing 20% by weight MgO.
- the fading level of each of the denim samples was determined by measuring the reflectance value with pre-calibrated Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrometer. Two readings were taken for each sample. The fading level was evaluated with the index CIE Lab colour space L* (lightness) unit. The liquor was then separated from the particles and reintroduced into the tumbler with virgin swatches and particles. The tumbler was re-sealed and the 1 hr process was repeated. This was repeated one further time to simulate 3 sequential treatments in total.
- Comparative Example 6 was performed exactly as described in Example 3 except that no solid particles were used.
- Comparative Example 7 was performed exactly as described in Example 3 except that the 7mm non-porous solid polypropylene particles were replaced with 60g porous solid polypropylene particles 1. [00170] Example 4
- Example 4 CellusoftTM LT 19500 L was used to measure enzyme efficiency in conjunction with 7mm non-porous solid thermoplastic particles with a simultaneous amylase- mediated desizing step.
- the apparatus used in this Example was similar to that described in WO 2011/098815.
- the apparatus comprised a treatment chamber in the form of a rotatable cylinder and a particle storage tank.
- the apparatus also comprised a pump to transfer the non- porous solid thermoplastic particles from the particle storage tank to the treatment chamber and an electric motor to rotate the treatment chamber.
- 10kg of denim swatches were loaded into the rotatable cylinder.
- Softened water, 40L, (pCa ⁇ 5 ppm) was added to the apparatus.
- the composition comprising textile, particles and liquid medium was heated to and maintained at a temperature of 40°C.
- the composition was agitated by rotating the rotatable cylinder for a period of 5 minutes and in addition to the rotation, the liquor was recycled into the rotatable cylinder by means of a pump and a spray nozzle.
- the water was buffered to a pH between 6.3 and 6.6 using 14mM sodium citrate and citric acid, 10g of cellulase (0.1% o.w.f.), 50g amylase (5% o.w.f.), 42g LutensolTM AT80 and 75.6g MarloquestTM G82 were mixed with 40kg of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles in the existing 40L of softened water.
- the composition comprising textile, particles, enzymes and liquid medium was agitated by rotating the rotatable cylinder for a period of 30 minutes.
- the liquid medium was drained.
- a rinse step was performed using two lots of 50L water, one hot (40°C) followed by a cold (20°C). The liquid medium was drained after each rinse.
- a wash-off step was performed using 50g PalononTM CAF mixed with 50L of softened water in the rotatable cylinder, the composition was agitated by rotating the rotatable cylinder for a period of 7 minutes.
- the liquid medium was drained after the wash-off step.
- a second rinse step was performed using two lots of 50L water, one hot (40°C) followed by a cold (20°C). The liquid medium was drained after each rinse. After rinsing the composition, the liquid medium was extracted by means of a high spin speed extraction.
- a 5 minutes separation cycle was performed to remove the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles from the denim swatches.
- the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles return to the particle storage unit housed in the rotatable cylinder.
- the treated denim swatches were then dried in a conventional clothes drier at temperature ranges of from 50°C to 80°C.
- the fading level of each of the denim samples was determined by measuring the reflectance value with pre-calibrated Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrometer. Four readings were taken for each sample. The fading level was evaluated with the index CIE Lab colour space L* (lightness) unit. The above method was repeated with 0%, 0.3%, 0.6%,
- a composition comprising indigo dyed denim jeans (manufactured by Thaimid);
- XDrum 500L a conditioning machine with apparatus to dispense and retain 7 mm non-porous solid
- thermoplastic particles during the conditioning cycle.
- the composition was heated to and maintained at a temperature of 40°C.
- the water was buffered to a pH between 5.5 and 7 using 14 mM sodium citrate and citric acid, 30 g of ECOSTONE LT300 (supplied by AB Enzymes) (% o.w.f.), 35g amylase (% o.w.f.), 60 g MarloquestTM G82 and 30 g PalononTM CAF were all mixed with 30 kg of the non-porous solid thermoplastic particles in the existing 30 L of softened water.
- the composition was agitated by rotating the rotatable cylinder for a period of 30 minutes.
- the liquid medium was drained.
- a rinse step was performed using 30 L water (40 °C) for 2 minutes.
- the liquid was drained after the rinse.
- a wash-off step was performed using 50 g PalononTM
- CAF CAF mixed with 50 L of softened water (20 °C) in the rotatable cylinder, the composition was agitated by rotating the rotatable cylinder for a period of 2 minutes. The liquid was drained after the wash-off step.
- the denim samples were dried at a temperature ranging of from 50 °C to 80 °C.
- the fading level of the denim samples was determined by measuring the reflectance value (L*) with pre-calibrated Konica Minolta CM-3600A spectrometer. Four readings were taken for each sample and compared to readings taken of the raw denim before abrasion by the above method. The fading level was evaluated using the index CIE Lab colour space L* (lightness) unit.
- Table 4 clearly shows that the method of the present invention is superior to a stonewashing process using cellulase alone or with rubber balls.
- Example 4 shows that the removal of size and a cellulase-mediated fading can be carried out simultaneously on a large scale.
- Figures 1 to 4 show the SEM images obtained from the surface of the 7mm non-porous solid thermoplastic particle; porous solid polypropylene particle 1 , AccurelTM MP100 from 3M; porous solid polypropylene particle 2, AccurelTM XP100-84 from 3M; and a pumice stone respectively.
- the surface of the 7mm non-porous solid thermoplastic particle as required in the present invention is clearly smoother, i.e. has less irregular features than the porous solid polypropylene particles and the pumice stone.
- Figure 5 shows a comparison of the surfaces of the different particles ranked opposite a relative roughness scale of 1 to 5.
- the figure shows that the particles are ranked as follows, in order of increasing roughness: 7mm non-porous solid thermoplastic particle ⁇ porous solid polypropylene particle 1 (AccurelTM MP100 from 3M) ⁇ porous solid polypropylene particle 2 (AccurelTM XP100-84 from 3M) ⁇ pumice stone.
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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GBGB1809610.7A GB201809610D0 (en) | 2018-06-12 | 2018-06-12 | Method and conditioned textiles |
PCT/GB2019/051595 WO2019239110A1 (en) | 2018-06-12 | 2019-06-07 | Method for the conditioning of textiles and conditioned textiles produced thereby |
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EP3807459A1 true EP3807459A1 (en) | 2021-04-21 |
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EP19731776.1A Pending EP3807459A1 (en) | 2018-06-12 | 2019-06-07 | Method for the conditioning of textiles and conditioned textiles produced thereby |
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EP (1) | EP3807459A1 (en) |
CN (1) | CN112368442B (en) |
GB (1) | GB201809610D0 (en) |
MX (1) | MX2020013605A (en) |
WO (1) | WO2019239110A1 (en) |
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Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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JPH04241165A (en) | 1991-01-07 | 1992-08-28 | Rakutou Kasei Kogyo Kk | Treatment for imparting stone wash-like appearance to dyed natural fiber material |
US5616553A (en) * | 1993-08-12 | 1997-04-01 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Fabric conditioning compositions |
DE59706063D1 (en) * | 1996-09-09 | 2002-02-21 | Cognis Deutschland Gmbh | METHOD FOR PRODUCING A STRUCTURAL EFFECT ON TEXTILE SURFACES |
WO2009153345A2 (en) | 2008-06-20 | 2009-12-23 | Golden Trade S.R.L. | Process for decolorizing and/or aging fabrics, and decolorized and/or aged fabrics obtainable therefrom |
GB201002245D0 (en) | 2010-02-10 | 2010-03-31 | Xeros Ltd | Improved cleaning apparatus and method |
GB201018318D0 (en) * | 2010-10-29 | 2010-12-15 | Xeros Ltd | Improved cleaning method |
GB201204071D0 (en) * | 2012-03-08 | 2012-04-18 | Reckitt & Colman Overseas | Polymer treatment method |
GB201212098D0 (en) * | 2012-07-06 | 2012-08-22 | Xeros Ltd | New cleaning material |
GB201305120D0 (en) | 2013-03-20 | 2013-05-01 | Xeros Ltd | Improved cleaning apparatus and method |
CN103397530A (en) * | 2013-07-24 | 2013-11-20 | 昆山市周市惠宏服装厂 | Finishing process of jeans wear |
CN103526555A (en) * | 2013-09-27 | 2014-01-22 | 昆山培新服装有限公司 | Biological enzyme finishing process for jean |
GB201317557D0 (en) | 2013-10-03 | 2013-11-20 | Xeros Ltd | Improved cleaning apparatus and method |
BR112017011157B1 (en) * | 2014-12-01 | 2022-10-11 | Basf Se | THERMOPLATIC POLYAMIDE PARTICLES, METHOD TO PRODUCE THERMOPLATIC POLYAMIDE PARTICLES AND USE OF THERMOPLATIC POLYAMIDE PARTICLES |
GB201421293D0 (en) * | 2014-12-01 | 2015-01-14 | Xeros Ltd | New cleaning method, apparatus and use |
GB201509463D0 (en) | 2015-06-01 | 2015-07-15 | Xeros Ltd | Improved apparatus and method |
GB201613970D0 (en) * | 2016-08-15 | 2016-09-28 | Xeros Ltd | Method for applying a treatment agent to a substrate |
-
2018
- 2018-06-12 GB GBGB1809610.7A patent/GB201809610D0/en not_active Ceased
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2019
- 2019-06-07 MX MX2020013605A patent/MX2020013605A/en unknown
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- 2019-06-07 CN CN201980040120.5A patent/CN112368442B/en active Active
- 2019-06-07 EP EP19731776.1A patent/EP3807459A1/en active Pending
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WO2019239110A1 (en) | 2019-12-19 |
CN112368442A (en) | 2021-02-12 |
GB201809610D0 (en) | 2018-07-25 |
MX2020013605A (en) | 2021-03-09 |
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