EP3554642A1

EP3554642A1 - Textured compositions

Info

Publication number: EP3554642A1
Application number: EP17803973.1A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Heidi Riedel; Robert Jung; Helga Gondek
Original assignee: BASF SE
Current assignee: BASF SE
Priority date: 2016-12-13
Filing date: 2017-11-29
Publication date: 2019-10-23
Also published as: CN110049802A; JP2020500946A; WO2018108530A1; KR20190095338A; BR112019011210A2; US20200009027A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to compositions which form certain textures in oil-in-water systems and are used in particular in the production of cosmetic products.

Description

Textured compositions

1 . Field of the invention

The present invention relates to textured compositions especially for the cosmetics industry which form certain molecular structures in an oil-in-water system. These compositions form interesting textures that are classified as glazed translucent to milky jelly like in appearance.

2. Background of the invention

A clear view of the needs of consumers and the recognition of future trends are crucial to the development of successful personal care products. Tailor-made products and solutions for cosmetics are designed to exploit the opportunities and opportunities that lie within these new trends.

These new trends include the development of textures of cosmetics products. Textures influence the wearing and application comfort of cosmetic products and give the consumer an impression of the sensory properties of the product.

EP 1 212 042 B1 describes a structuring composition which forms a two-layered lamellar gel network in an oil-in-water system. This composition contains a cationic swelling agent which is a fatty acid adduct of amidopropyldimethyl-2-hydroxyethylammonium halide and a gelling agent mixture of low HLB emulsifiers selected from fatty alcohols and esters. The ratio of the anionic emulsifier to the fatty alcohol is set extremely low. These product structuring compositions can be used in personal care formulations for patterning.

From WO 98/44896 A1, oil-in-water lamellar emulsions are known whose oil phase consists of oil mixtures which have a high polarity.

Cosmetic oil-in-water emulsions are usually based on a microstructure of finely divided oil droplets in an outer water phase. These emulsions are distinguished through a white homogeneous texture. However, there is an increasing need for novel experiences during the application of the care emulsions.

The object of the present invention is to provide exceptional textures that stand out optically from the homogeneous white oil-in-water emulsions and offer consumers novel sensory experiences when applying the product to the skin.

3. Summary of the invention

The present invention relates to a textured composition which forms a lamellar and / or crystalline gel network in an oil-in-water system and which comprises:

0.01 to 3.00 parts by weight of at least one anionic emulsifier and

0.15 to 9.00% by weight of at least one bodying agent,

0.01 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one hydrocolloid and

From 3.00 to 15.0% by weight of at least one oil and / or wax, and - to 100% by weight of water,

wherein the anionic emulsifier anionic emulsifier

at least one emulsifier from the group salts of

Fatty acids, salts of stearoyl lactic acid, salts of

Stearoylglutamic acid or alkylglutamates, alkylphosphates,

Alkyl sulfates, alkyl sarcosinates, salts of

Alkyl sulfosuccinic acid and salts of citric acid esters

includes the ratio of anionic emulsifier to

Consistency factor is in the range of 10: 333 to 10: 6 and

the oil or oil blends have a medium polarity and a

Have surface tension IFT of 25 to 45 mN / m.

The compositions of the invention show a wide range of textures ranging from glassy translucent to milky jelly-like textures. The particular desired texture within this bandwidth can be determined by the choice of

Emulgatorsystems (type of anionic emulsifier and type of bodying agent) and by the proportion and polarity of the oil / wax can be adjusted. The invention also relates to a textured composition which, in an oil-in-water system, forms a finely dispersed droplet distribution having lamellar and / or crystalline structures and which comprises:

An emulsifier combination

0.01 to 5.00 parts by weight of at least one anionic emulsifier

and

0.15 to 9.00% by weight of at least one bodying agent,

0.01 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one hydrocolloid and

From 3.00 to 15.0% by weight of at least one oil and / or wax, and

up to 100% by weight of water,

wherein the anionic emulsifier comprises at least one emulsifier from the group of salts of fatty acids, salts of stearoyl lactic acid, salts of stearoylglutamic acid or alkylglutamates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sarcosinates, salts of alkylsulfosuccinic acid and salts of citric acid esters and the emulsifier combination 2.00 to 8.00 wt % and the ratio of anionic emulsifier to bodying agent 1: 1 to 1: 2 and the oil or the oil mixtures have a mean polarity and an interfacial tension IFT of 25 to 45 mN / m.

This composition gives a smooth milky cloudy oil-in-water emulsion.

All quantities are based on 100% (total amount) of the textured composition.

All textured compositions are characterized by excellent storage stability over a period of up to 3 years. Even at higher temperatures (> 40 ° C) or change temperatures (-5 ° C to 40 ° C) and freezing temperatures, a shelf life of up to 6 months is achieved.

The present invention also relates to methods of making these textured compositions and to textured cosmetic compositions.

A lamellar and a crystalline or a combined lamellar / crystalline gel network structure are described in Figures 1 to 3. Show it:

FIG. 1 shows a micrograph of an organic-in-water emulsion with a crystalline gel network according to the invention at a magnification of 400: 1;

FIG. 2 shows a micrograph of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention with a lamellar gel network at a magnification of 400: 1;

FIG. 3 shows a micrograph of an oil-in-water emulsion with lamellar / crystalline gel network according to the invention at a magnification of 400: 1;

Description of the invention

The present invention describes compositions which form a lamellar and / or crystalline gel network in an oil-in-water system. The resulting texture has a translucent, glassy appearance. These compositions are stabilized by the lamellar gel network structure, which is in contrast to the classical emulsion structure with finely divided oil droplets in the outer water phase. The compositions are not homogenized, but stirred under moderate conditions and are characterized by an excellent long-term stability.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the at least one bodying agent is selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids (unsaponified), glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-fatty acid esters, sorbitan mono-, di-, tri- and / or poly fatty acid esters, sucrose - Mono-, di-, tri- and / or poly fatty acid esters, pentaerythrityl mono- and / or difatty acid selected.

It has proven to be advantageous if at least one bodying agent in a concentration of 0.5 to 6.00 wt .-% is included in the composition.

Fatty alcohols for the bodying agent are to be understood as meaning primary aliphatic alcohols of the formula (I)

R-OH (I)

wherein R is an aliphatic, linear or branched alkyl radical having 6 to 22 C-atoms, preferably 14 to 20 C-atoms, with 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds.

Typical examples of the fatty alcohol are caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol (Lanette® 14), Lanette® 14 / MB), cetyl alcohol (Lanette® 16), palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol (Lanette® 18), cetearyl alcohol (Lanette® D), isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol , Behenyl (Lanette® 22), erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. Preferred are technical fatty alcohols having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol. Especially preferred fatty alcohols are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

Further bodying agents are glyceryl laurate, such as Monomuls 90-L-12, glyceryl oleate, such as Monomuls 90-O 18, glyceryl stearate, such as Cutina GMS V and Cutina GMS V / MB, glycol distearate, such as Cutina AGS, sorbitan stearate, such as Dehymuls SMS, pentaerythritol distearate such as Cutina PES, sucrose polystearate (and) cetyl palmitate such as Emulgade Sucro Plus and sucrose polystearate (and) Hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Emulgade Sucro.

The hydrocolloid contained in the textured composition is selected from the group of acrylic acid and acrylic acid derivatives, carbohydrates such as cellulose and natural gums and their derivatives. Preferred hydrocolloids are polyacrylates (Cosmedia® SP and Cosmedia® ACE, BASF), carbomer (Rheocare® C Plus, BASF), acrylate copolymer (Rheocare® TTA). A particularly preferred hydrocolloid is a carbomer.

The concentration of the hydrocolloid in the composition is preferably in a range of 0.1 to 1.00 wt%.

According to the invention, the anionic emulsifier is at least one emulsifier from the group of salts of fatty acids, salts of fatty acids, salts of stearoyl lactic acid, salts of stearoylglutamic acid or alkylglutamates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sarcosinates, salts of alkylsulfosuccinic acid and salts of citric acid esters. Preferred anionic emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate / stearic acid (Cutina® FS 45, BASF), sodium stearoyl glutamate (Eumulgin® SG, BASF), disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate (Eumulgin® Prisma, BASF), sodium cetearyl sulfates (Lanette® E, Lanette® N, Lanette® SX BASF). Particularly preferred anionic emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate / stearic acid, sodium stearoyl glutamate and disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate. The oil and / or wax in the textured composition according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of fatty acid esters, hydrocarbons, Guerbet alcohols, tri- or partial glycerides, mono- / dialkyl ethers, mono- / dialkyl carbonates, oil-soluble UV filters, fatty alcohol ethers, microcrystalline waxes, mineral oil, silicone oil, natural vegetable oils and their mixtures selected. The concentration of the oil in the composition is 3.00 to 15.00% by weight, preferably 5.00 to 15.00% by weight.

Preferred oils and / or waxes are Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms (Eutanol G, Eutanol G 16), esters of linear C 6 -C 22 fatty acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols or Esters of branched C6-Ci3-carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22-fatty alcohols, such as. B. myristyl myristate (Cetiol MM), myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate (Cutina CP), cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, isopropyl Myristate, isopropyl Palmitate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate (Cetiol J 600), behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate , Behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate, ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol 868), hexyl laurate (Cetiol A), C12.15 alkyl benzoate (Cetiol AB), dibutyl adipate (Cetiol B), Coco-Caprylate (Cetiol C5), Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (Cetiol LC, Cetiol C 5C), Propylheptyl Caprylate (Cetiol Sensoft), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol SN), Decyl Oleate (Cetiol V), Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (Luvitol EHO), In addition, esters of C 18 -C 38 -alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such. Propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) such as Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaparte (Myritol PGDC). and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6-Cio fatty acids liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-Cis fatty acids (Myritol 331, Myritol 312, Myritol 318), esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C 2 -C 12 -dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, such as. B. Dicproylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guerbetcarbonate based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols (eg Finsolv® TN, Cetiol AB), linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with Po - lyols (Cetiol E). Further suitable emollients are vegetable oils (Cegesoft GPO, Cegesoft PFO, Cegesoft PS 6, Cegesoft SBE, Cegesoft SH) and mixtures thereof (Cegesoft VP), silicone oils, hydrocarbons such as Cetiol Ultimate, hydrogenated polyisobutenes (Luvitol Light), mineral oils, isoparaffins, paraffins ,

Particularly preferred oils are high or medium polar oils, such as recordable as coco caprylate / caprate (Cetiol® LC), ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® C24), Elaeis guineensis palm oil (Cegesoft ^® GPO), Passiflora incarnata seed oil (Cegesoft ^® PFO), Olus oil (Cegesoft ^® PS 6), ethylhexyl stearate (CETIOL ^® 868), hexyl laurate (CETIOL ^® A), C12-15 alkyl benzoate (CETIOL ^® AB), dibutyl adipate (CETIOL ^® B) Coco-caprylate (CETIOL ^® C5), Coco - caprylate / caprate (CETIOL ^® C 5C), dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol ^® CC), ethylhexyl cocoate (and) Cocos nucifera oil (CETIOL ^® COCO), PPG-15 stearyl ether (CETIOL ^® e) oleyl ether (Cetiol ^® J 600), hexyldecanol (and) Hexyldecyl laurate (CETIOL ^® PGL), caprylyl caprylate / caprate (CETIOL ^® RLF), Propylheptylcaprylat (CETIOL SENSOFT ^®), cetearyl isononanoate (CETIOL SN ^®), decyl oleate (CETIOL V ^®), octyldodecanol (EUTANOL G ^®), hexyldecanol (EUTANOL ^® G16), hexyldecyl stearate (EUTANOL ^® G16S), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Cetearylethylhexanoat (LuVi TOL ^® EHO), caprylic / capric triglyceride (MYRITOL ^® 312), caprylic / capric triglyceride (MYRITOL ^® 318) cocoglyceride (MYRITOL ^® 331).

A very preferred oil is coco-caprylate caprate.

The compositions contain oils or oil mixtures having an average polarity and an interfacial tension IFT of 25 to 45 mN / m.

The polarity or surface tension of an oil is measured as follows:

The polarity of an oil is defined as its interfacial tension (IFT in mN / m) against water and measured using the pendant drop method at a temperature of 23 +/- 2 ° C. A Dataphysics OCAH 200 high-speed contact angle measuring system with a 25-gauge cannula (DataPhysics Instruments GmbH, Filderstadt, Germany) is used for the measurement. With the cannula, a water droplet is placed in a cuvette with The droplet size is adjusted in increments of 5 μΙ to the maximum stable volume to ensure the highest sensitivity for the method. For droplet size evaluation, the LaPlace-Young method is used and the required densities are determined with an oscillating U-tube densitometer. The measurement is repeated 10 times and the IFT is reported as the mean of these 10 measurements with their standard deviation.

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i. solid vegetable or animal products consisting essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Also fatty acid partial glycerides, d. H. technical mono- and / or diesters of glycerol with fatty acids having 12 to 18 carbon atoms such as glycerol mono / dilaurate, palmitate or - stearate come into question. As waxes come u. a. natural waxes, such. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), crepe fat, ceresin, ozokerite (ground wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as. As montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such. As polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question. In addition to the fats come as additives and fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids in question. As examples of natural lecithins called the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and derivatives of 1, 2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. On the other hand, phospholipids are usually understood as meaning mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally regarded as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

The emulsifier combination of anionic emulsifier and bodying agent in the textured composition according to the invention is preferably from 1, 5 to 6.0 wt .-%.

It has been found according to the invention that the choice of bodying agent influences the gel network in the composition. The use of fatty alcohols as bodying agents forms a lamellar gel network, while the selection of an unsaponified fatty acid forms a crystalline gel network. When esters are used as bodying agents, a mixed gel network structure is formed, ie a lamellar and crystalline gel network. FIG. 1 shows a photomicrograph (400: 1) of a gel-like oil-in-water emulsion having a crystalline gel network structure. This composition is highly translucent (transparent) with a clear and / or pearlescent marbled appearance.

A lamellar gel network structure can be seen from the light-micrograph (400: 1) of the oil-in-water emulsion of FIG. It can be set milky textures that can be described as light or creamy rich sorbet character.

A mixed gel network structure can be seen in Figure 3, a light micrograph (400: 1) of another oil-in-water emulsion. The texture of this oil-in-water emulsion moves between translucent and milky jelly-like.

The textured compositions according to the invention have a translucency (transparency). The transmittance of the textured compositions is 3.9 to 50%, preferably 3.9 to 20% at 25 ° C.

The transmittance describes the proportion of incident radiant flux or luminous flux that completely penetrates a transparent system.

The textured compositions of the invention are prepared by simply stirring the ingredients without homogenization. In this way, the lamellar or crystalline network structure can form. For this, the ingredients are combined after heating to 75 to 85 ° C and stirred after the phase combination with slow stirring at a speed <600 U / min until reaching room temperature. Preferably, the number of revolutions in the stirring is <300 U / min. The resulting composition is storage stable and maintains its texture over a period of up to 3 years.

Surprisingly, by varying the amounts or concentration of the constituents contained in the textured composition of the invention, it is possible to produce various other textures, of which different. Thus, by omitting the oil phase, a textured gel can be displayed.

The textured compositions according to the invention are outstandingly useful in the field of cosmetics. Therefore, the present invention also relates to textured cosmetic compositions that are present in the textures described above. These cosmetic compositions also contain cosmetically active ingredients Pigments, plant extracts, peptides, proteins, marine atelocollagen, phytoceramides, phytosterols, polyphenols, polyols, urea, hyaluronic acid, sugars and sugar derivatives, sodium PCA, vitamins, UV protection filters, antioxidants, biogenic agents, self-tanning agents, preservatives, complexing agents, Perfume oils, vegetable oils, antiperspirants, esterase inhibitors, neutralizing agents, bactericides and mixtures thereof.

The compositions of the invention may be in the form of creams, milks, lotions, gels, sticks, conditioners, sprays, serum, aerosol foam, pump foam, pastes or waxes.

The textured compositions are excellent for skin care for the face, body, hands, eye area and décolleté, as sunscreen and skin care for babies and for the care of diseased and sensitive skin.

Examples of cosmetically active ingredients are described below.

antiperspirants

Antiperspirants are salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds e.g. With propylene glycol-1, 2. Aluminiumhydroxyallantoinat, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. With amino acids such as glycine. Preferably, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds are used.

esterase

In the presence of sweat in the underarm area, extracellular enzymes - esterases, preferably proteases and / or lipases - are formed by bacteria, which split the esters contained in sweat and thereby release odors. Suitable esterase inhibitors are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, BASF AG, Dusseldorf). The substances inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce odors. Other substances which may be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulphates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, for example glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adiponate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters, for example Citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate and zinc glycinate.

Bactericidal or bacteriostatic agents

Typical examples of suitable bactericidal or bacteriostatic agents are in particular chitosan and phenoxyethanol. 5-Chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) -phenol, which is marketed under the brand name Irgasan® by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH, has also proved to be particularly effective. Suitable antimicrobial agents are in principle all substances which are active against gram-positive bacteria, for example 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N ^' - (3,4-dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4 ^' - ^'- hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, ^2,2' trichloro-2-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4- chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol , 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) - 1, 2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4 ^{'-Trichlorcarbanilid} (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, Thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as. Salicylic acid n-octylamide or salicylic acid n-decylamide.

Sweat absorbing substances

As sweat absorbing substances, modified starch such as e.g. Dry Flo Plus (National Starch), silicates, talc and other substances of similar modification that appear to be suitable for sweat absorption. The preparations according to the invention may contain the sweat-absorbing substances in amounts of from 0.1 to 30, preferably from 1 to 20, and in particular from 2 to 8,% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparation.

UV light protection filters

According to the invention, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat, are suitable as UV light protection filters at room temperature to give up again. UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Typical oil-soluble UV-B filters or broad-spectrum UV-A filters are, for example:

> 3-Benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher (Mexoryl SDS 20) and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;

> 3- (4'-Trimethylammonium) benzylidenebornan-2-one methylsulfate (Mexoryl SO)

> 3,341,4-phenylenedimethine) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo [2.2.1] heptane-1-methanesulfonic acid) and salts (Mexoryl SX)

> 3- (4'-sulfo) -benzylidene-bornan-2-one and salts (Mexoryl SL)

> Polymer of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) methyl} benzyl] acrylamide (Mexoryl SW)

> 2- (2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- (2-methyl-3- (1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - (trimethylsilyloxy) disiloxanyl) propyl) phenol (Mexoryl XL )

> 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;

> Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

> Triazine derivatives such as 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris [p- (2-triazine) ethylhexyl-oxycarbonyl) anilino] -1, 3,5-triazine (Uvinul T 150) or 4,4 ^' - [(6- [4- ((1,1-dimethylethyl) amino-carbonyl) -phenyl-amino] -1, 3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl) diimino] bis (benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb® HEB);

> 2,2 (-Methylene bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (Tinosorb M);

> 2,4-bis [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxyphenyl] -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (Tinosorb S);

Propan-1, 3-diones, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

> Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives,

Dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate (Parsol SLX). Suitable water-soluble UV filters are:

> 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

> 2,2 (- (1,4-phenylene) bis (1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid, monosodium salt) (Neo Heliopan AP)

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-Oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) -sulfonic acid and its salts.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1 - (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1, 3-dione and enamine compounds, and benzoic acid, 2- [4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl ] -, hexyl ester (Uvinul® A plus).

Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g. 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester. Advantageously, such combinations are provided with water-soluble filters, e.g. 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium combined.

pigments

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble photoprotective pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are in particular zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. As salts silicates (talc), barium sulfate or Zinkstea rat can be used. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and also for decorative cosmetics. The particles should have a mean diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T, Eusolex® T-2000, Eusolex® T-Aqua, Eusolex® AVO, Eusolex® T-ECO, Eusolex® T-OLEO and Eusolex® TS (Merck). Typical examples are zinc oxides such as Zinc Oxide neutral, Zinc Oxide NDM (Symrise) or Z-Cote® (BASF) or SUNZnO-AS and SUNZnO-NAS (Sunjun Chemical Co. Ltd.). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. In sunscreens, so-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used. Preferably, micronized zinc oxide is used.

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocaninic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (eg carotene, carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, Cystamine and its glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, bithine sulfones, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very small amounts similar dosages (eg pmol to mol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg o hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin , EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Ascorbylacetat), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and Koniferylbenzoat of Benzoeharzes, rutinic acid and their derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguagaric acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO 4) selenium and its derivatives (eg, selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg, stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

Nonionic emulsifiers

Nonionic emulsifiers may also be present in combination with the anionic emulsifiers. Examples of these nonionic emulsifiers are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers (Eumulgin S 2, Eumulgin S 21, Eumulgin B1, Eumulgin B2, Cremophor A 25, Eumulgin B3, BASF and emulsifier compounds, such as Emulgade 1000 Nl, Lanette WAX AO, Emulgade SE PF, Emulgade NLB, Alkylphenolpolyglycolether Fatty acid polyglycol esters, such as emulsions 165 Cremophor GS 32 fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yloligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates, especially wheat-based vegetable products, polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters (such as Emulgade PL 68/50, Emulgade Sucro from BASF), sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution usually at about 0.01 to 10.00, preferably 0.05 to 5.00 and in particular 0.05 to 3.00 wt .-%.

thickener

Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), phyllosilicates, such as magnesium-aluminum silicate, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone and bentonites such. B. Bentone ^® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), taurates and derivatives thereof, polyurethanes, polyacrylamides, PVM / MA copolymers, and mixtures.

Biogenic agents

Examples of biogenic active substances include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and their fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as. B. Prunusextrakt, Bambaranussextrakt and vitamin complexes to understand.

Suitable insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-diol or 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetyl-amino) -propionic acid ethyl ester), which under the name ^® Insect Repellent 3535 by Merck KGaA is sold, as well as Butylacetylaminopropionate in question.

As a self-tanner dihydroxyacetone is suitable. As Tyrosinhinbitoren that prevent the formation of melanin and find application in depigmenting, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) come into question.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the further classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.

As perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs, resins and balsams. Furthermore, animal raw materials, such as civet and Castoreum and synthetic fragrance compounds of the ester type, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons come into question.

Pearlescent waxes, in particular for use in surface-active formulations, are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which in total have at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring-opening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof. As superfatting agents, substances such as lanolin and lecithin as well as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used, the latter also serving as foam stabilizers.

Hydrotropes such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols contemplated herein preferably have from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may contain other functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen.

The invention will now be explained below with reference to the examples.

Examples

The textured compositions 1 to 6 shown in Table 1 below are prepared as follows:

The gel former of phase 3 is dispersed with stirring in water and precooled with the addition of phase 4 with stirring until a homogeneous gel is formed. The components of phase 1 and phase 2 are heated to 75 to 85 ° C and combined with stirring. After the phase combination, the homogeneous gel (phase 3 and phase 4) is added with slow stirring. The combined phases are stirred with slow stirring at a speed of <600 U / min until they reach room temperature. Preferably, the number of revolutions in the stirring is <300 U / min. At about 35 ° C, the ingredients of phase 5 are added.

Table 1 :

Myritol 312 Caprylic / Capric 2.00

triglyceride

Water, water 50,26 50,95 51, 27 47,70 47,00 47,50 demin.

Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00

Rheocare C Carbomer 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Plus

Water, water 33, 13 33,00 33, 13 30,00 29,70 33,00 demin.

KOH 20% potassium hydroxide 0.40 0.30 0.35 0.30 0.30 0.30

Perfume Perfume Always the 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 "Always the sun from Symrise

sun "

Patch20 water, glycerine, 3.00

glyceryl

polyacrylate,

trehalose,

Urea, tendon,

Pentylene glycol,

Algin, Caprylyl

Glycol, sodium

hyaluronate,

pullulan,

disodium

Phosphate, potassium

phosphate

Euxyl K 320 2-1, 00 1, 30 1, 30 1, 00

phenoxyethanol,

Methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate,

Ethyl 4-hydroxybenzoate

Protectol PE Phenoxyethanol 1, 00 1, 00

Sensiva SC ethylhexylglycerol 0.50 0.50

50

Viscosity Brookfield RVF, 1 12500 100000 75000 150000 1 12500 1 12500

Spindle TE, 4rpm

with Helipath

pH 6.5 6.5 6.4 6.4 6.4 6.4 6.7 The transmission values of compositions 1 to 6 were measured as follows:

The transmission values of compositions 1 to 6 were measured with a Lumifuge (LUM GmbH, Berlin) at the lowest possible rotational speed of 200 rpm. After the instruments have been normalized to standard, cuvettes (type PA 1 10-13405) are filled with the sample with a 2 mm optical path and the percentage of transmitted light is averaged over a height of 10 mm.

The determined transmission values of the compositions are shown in Table 2.

Table 2:

Compared to a marketed soft cream product, the textured compositions of the present invention have transmittance values that are higher. This means that the textured compositions according to the invention are in some cases significantly more transparent than the commercial product.

Claims

claims

1 . Textured composition which forms a lamellar and / or crystalline gel network in an oil-in-water system and which comprises

An emulsifier combination

0.01 to 3.00 parts by weight of at least one anionic emulsifier and

0.15 to 9.00% by weight of at least one bodying agent,

0.01 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one hydrocolloid and

3.00 to 15.0% by weight of at least one oil and / or wax, and up to 100% by weight of water,

wherein the anionic emulsifier anionic emulsifier at least one emulsifier from the group of salts of fatty acids, salts of stearoyl lactic acid, salts of stearoylglutamic or alkylglutamates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl sulfates,

Alkyl sarcosinates, salts of alkylsulfosuccinic acid and salts of citric acid esters, the ratio of anionic emulsifier to consistency regulator in the range of 10: 333 to 10: 6 and the oil or its mixtures has an average polarity, with an interfacial tension IFT of 25 to 45 mN / m.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one bodying agent is contained in a concentration of 0.5 to 6.00 wt .-% and is selected from the group of fatty alcohols, fatty acids (unsaponified), glyceryl mono-, Di- and / or triflic acid esters, sorbitan mono-, di-, tri- and / or poly fatty acid esters, sucrose mono-, di-, tri- and / or poly fatty acid esters, pentaerythrityl mono- and / or difatty acid esters.

3. Composition according to claim 1 and / or 2, characterized in that the at least one hydrocolloid is contained in a concentration of 0.1 to 1, 00 wt .-%.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that at least one oil in a concentration of 5.00 to 15.00 wt .-% is included.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the fatty alcohol comprises at least one fatty alcohol of the formula (I)

R-OH (I)

wherein R is an aliphatic, linear or branched alkyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, preferably 14 to 20 carbon atoms, with 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds.

Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the hydrocolloid is selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid and acrylic acid derivatives, carbohydrates, such as cellulose and natural gums and their derivatives, taurates and their derivatives, polyurethanes, polyacrylamides, PVM / MA copolymers, VP- Copolymer, VA copolymers and mixtures thereof is selected.

A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the oil or wax from the group fatty acid esters, hydrocarbons, Guerbet alcohols, tri- or partial glycerides, mono- / dialkyl ethers, mono- / dialkyl carbonates, oil-soluble UV filters, fatty alcohol ethers, microcrystalline waxes, mineral oil, silicone oil, natural vegetable oils and mixtures thereof.

Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the emulsifier combination of anionic emulsifier and bodying agent is 1, 5 to 6.0 wt .-%.

A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the textured composition comprises a translucent, with a

Transmittance of 3.9 to 50% at 25 ° C, preferably from 3.9 to 20% at 25 ° C.

A texturized composition which, in an oil-in-water system, forms a finely dispersed droplet distribution having lamellar and / or crystalline structures and comprising:

An emulsifier combination

0.01 to 5.00 parts by weight of at least one anionic emulsifier and

0.15 to 9.00% by weight of at least one bodying agent, 0.01 to 5.00% by weight of at least one hydrocolloid and

wherein the anionic emulsifier comprises at least one emulsifier from the group of salts of fatty acids, salts of stearoyl lactic acid, salts of stearoylglutamic acid or alkylglutamates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sarcosinates, salts of

Alkylsulfosuccinic acid and salts of citric acid esters and the Emulsifier combination 2.00 to 8.00 wt .-% is and the ratio of

anionic emulsifier to consistency regulator 1: 1 to 1: 2 and the oil or mixtures thereof has an average polarity, with an interfacial tension IFT of 25 to 45 mN / m.

1 1. Process for the preparation of a textured composition according to any one of

Claims 1 to 10, wherein the constituents are combined after heating at 75 to 85 ° C, with slow stirring at a speed of less than 600 U / min, preferably less than or equal to 300 U / min, until reaching a temperature of 55 to 75 Are stirred, then homogenized and then with a

RPM less than 600 U / min, preferably less than or equal to 300 U / min, is stirred until it reaches room temperature.

12. A textured cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10,

the further cosmetically active ingredients from the group of pigments, plant extracts, peptides, proteins, marine atelocollagen, phytoceramides, phytosterols, polyphenols, polyols, urea, hyaluronic acid, sugars and sugar derivatives, sodium PCA, vitamins, UV light protection filters, antioxidants, biogenic agents, Self-tanning, preservatives, chelating agents, perfume oils, vegetable oils, antiperspirants, esterase inhibitors, neutralizing agents, bactericides and mixtures thereof.

13. Textured cosmetic composition according to claim 12, characterized in that it in the form of creams, milk, lotions, gels, pencils, conditioners, sprays. Serum, aerosol foam, pump foam pastes or waxes is present.

H. Use of a textured cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 and 12 to 13, for skin care for the face, body, hands, eye area and décolleté, as sunscreen and skin care of babies and for the care of diseased and sensitive skin.