EP2934683A2 - Gentle oxidation hair dye with an oil-containing oxidizer composition - Google Patents
Gentle oxidation hair dye with an oil-containing oxidizer compositionInfo
- Publication number
- EP2934683A2 EP2934683A2 EP13792001.3A EP13792001A EP2934683A2 EP 2934683 A2 EP2934683 A2 EP 2934683A2 EP 13792001 A EP13792001 A EP 13792001A EP 2934683 A2 EP2934683 A2 EP 2934683A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- amino
- hydroxyethyl
- weight
- phenylenediamine
- oxidation
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 114
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 114
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 110
- 239000000118 hair dye Substances 0.000 title abstract description 5
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 title description 22
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 76
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 35
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 239000002243 precursor Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- -1 fatty alcohol esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 67
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 claims description 60
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 49
- 229910003849 O-Si Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 27
- 229910003872 O—Si Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 27
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 26
- KJCVRFUGPWSIIH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-naphthol Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C(O)=CC=CC2=C1 KJCVRFUGPWSIIH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 24
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 24
- GHMLBKRAJCXXBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N resorcinol Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC(O)=C1 GHMLBKRAJCXXBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 24
- KDBUTNSQYYLYOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(4,5-diaminopyrazol-1-yl)ethanol Chemical compound NC=1C=NN(CCO)C=1N KDBUTNSQYYLYOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 23
- OBCSAIDCZQSFQH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methyl-1,4-phenylenediamine Chemical compound CC1=CC(N)=CC=C1N OBCSAIDCZQSFQH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 21
- RBUQOUQQUQCSAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(4-aminoanilino)ethanol Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(NCCO)C=C1 RBUQOUQQUQCSAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 20
- AVKBLCWBDLLVRL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(methoxymethyl)benzene-1,4-diamine Chemical compound COCC1=CC(N)=CC=C1N AVKBLCWBDLLVRL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 20
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 20
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical compound C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 19
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 19
- 230000001590 oxidative effect Effects 0.000 claims description 19
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 17
- 229940018563 3-aminophenol Drugs 0.000 claims description 15
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 14
- DBFYESDCPWWCHN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 5-amino-2-methylphenol Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(N)C=C1O DBFYESDCPWWCHN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- 125000004430 oxygen atom Chemical group O* 0.000 claims description 13
- WCPGNFONICRLCL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(OCCO)C(N)=C1 WCPGNFONICRLCL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- BMTSZVZQNMNPCT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-aminopyridin-3-ol Chemical compound NC1=NC=CC=C1O BMTSZVZQNMNPCT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- ZTMADXFOCUXMJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylbenzene-1,3-diol Chemical compound CC1=C(O)C=CC=C1O ZTMADXFOCUXMJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- MWKPYVXITDAZLL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-[3-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propoxy]benzene-1,3-diamine Chemical compound NC1=CC(N)=CC=C1OCCCOC1=CC=C(N)C=C1N MWKPYVXITDAZLL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 12
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 12
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 12
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 12
- SBUMIGFDXJIPLE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(3-amino-4-methoxyanilino)ethanol Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(NCCO)C=C1N SBUMIGFDXJIPLE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 10
- 230000003113 alkalizing effect Effects 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 8
- LEEDMQGKBNGPDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylnonadecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C LEEDMQGKBNGPDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- GOOHAUXETOMSMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene oxide Chemical group CC1CO1 GOOHAUXETOMSMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N carbonic acid Chemical class OC(O)=O BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000539 dimer Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000004670 unsaturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000021122 unsaturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003981 vehicle Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- DFIIJEHQGUKXKU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3-bis(2-ethylhexyl)cyclohexane Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)CC1CCCC(CC(CC)CCCC)C1 DFIIJEHQGUKXKU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920002367 Polyisobutene Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000001558 benzoic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940078546 isoeicosane Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000003441 saturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000004671 saturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000005113 hydroxyalkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N nitrogen Substances N#N IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000007764 o/w emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- CWLKGDAVCFYWJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-aminophenol Chemical compound NC1=CC=CC(O)=C1 CWLKGDAVCFYWJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 5
- 150000001991 dicarboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 abstract description 45
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 abstract description 5
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 abstract description 5
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 41
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 30
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 28
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 23
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 18
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 12
- FFWNCSWLUYKKKA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-aminophenol Chemical compound NC1=CC=CC(O)=C1.NC1=CC=CC(O)=C1 FFWNCSWLUYKKKA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 11
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 10
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 10
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Polymers 0.000 description 8
- HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCO HLZKNKRTKFSKGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 229940024606 amino acid Drugs 0.000 description 7
- 235000001014 amino acid Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 7
- UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzene Chemical compound C1=CC=CC=C1 UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M Potassium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[K+] KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 6
- 239000003945 anionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 6
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 6
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycine Chemical compound NCC(O)=O DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 5
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- 150000001735 carboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 239000013065 commercial product Substances 0.000 description 5
- MWKFXSUHUHTGQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N decan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCO MWKFXSUHUHTGQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 5
- 230000003700 hair damage Effects 0.000 description 5
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- BARWIPMJPCRCTP-CLFAGFIQSA-N oleyl oleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC BARWIPMJPCRCTP-CLFAGFIQSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 5
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 5
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- KBPLFHHGFOOTCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-Octanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCO KBPLFHHGFOOTCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO WNWHHMBRJJOGFJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- NLMKTBGFQGKQEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-(2-hexadecoxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO NLMKTBGFQGKQEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- ROOXNKNUYICQNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N ammonium persulfate Chemical compound [NH4+].[NH4+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)OOS([O-])(=O)=O ROOXNKNUYICQNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000000982 direct dye Substances 0.000 description 4
- NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO NOPFSRXAKWQILS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- LQZZUXJYWNFBMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCO LQZZUXJYWNFBMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 230000037308 hair color Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229940043348 myristyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 4
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 4
- GEYOCULIXLDCMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,2-phenylenediamine Chemical compound NC1=CC=CC=C1N GEYOCULIXLDCMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- XFRVVPUIAFSTFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-Tridecanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCO XFRVVPUIAFSTFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Aminoethan-1-ol Chemical compound NCCO HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- SGVYKUFIHHTIFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylnonane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(C)C SGVYKUFIHHTIFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- CSCPPACGZOOCGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetone Chemical compound CC(C)=O CSCPPACGZOOCGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 3
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 3
- KDXKERNSBIXSRK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Lysine Natural products NCCCCC(N)C(O)=O KDXKERNSBIXSRK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Potassium Chemical compound [K] ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sulfate Chemical compound [O-]S([O-])(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 3
- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N arginine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCCNC(N)=N ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 3
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- 235000015165 citric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 3
- BTCSSZJGUNDROE-UHFFFAOYSA-N gamma-aminobutyric acid Chemical compound NCCCC(O)=O BTCSSZJGUNDROE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- UQEAIHBTYFGYIE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexamethyldisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C UQEAIHBTYFGYIE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 125000001064 morpholinomethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])(*)N1C([H])([H])C([H])([H])OC([H])([H])C1([H])[H] 0.000 description 3
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- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 3
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- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 229930028154 D-arginine Natural products 0.000 description 2
- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- IUMSDRXLFWAGNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 IUMSDRXLFWAGNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004471 Glycine Substances 0.000 description 2
- AEMRFAOFKBGASW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycolic acid Chemical compound OCC(O)=O AEMRFAOFKBGASW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 240000000950 Hippophae rhamnoides Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000003145 Hippophae rhamnoides Nutrition 0.000 description 2
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- AHLPHDHHMVZTML-BYPYZUCNSA-N L-Ornithine Chemical compound NCCC[C@H](N)C(O)=O AHLPHDHHMVZTML-BYPYZUCNSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QNAYBMKLOCPYGJ-REOHCLBHSA-N L-alanine Chemical compound C[C@H](N)C(O)=O QNAYBMKLOCPYGJ-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-BYPYZUCNSA-N L-arginine Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CCCN=C(N)N ODKSFYDXXFIFQN-BYPYZUCNSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229930064664 L-arginine Natural products 0.000 description 2
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- WPLOVIFNBMNBPD-ATHMIXSHSA-N subtilin Chemical compound CC1SCC(NC2=O)C(=O)NC(CC(N)=O)C(=O)NC(C(=O)NC(CCCCN)C(=O)NC(C(C)CC)C(=O)NC(=C)C(=O)NC(CCCCN)C(O)=O)CSC(C)C2NC(=O)C(CC(C)C)NC(=O)C1NC(=O)C(CCC(N)=O)NC(=O)C(CC(C)C)NC(=O)C(NC(=O)C1NC(=O)C(=C/C)/NC(=O)C(CCC(N)=O)NC(=O)C(CC(C)C)NC(=O)C(C)NC(=O)CNC(=O)C(NC(=O)C(NC(=O)C2NC(=O)CNC(=O)C3CCCN3C(=O)C(NC(=O)C3NC(=O)C(CC(C)C)NC(=O)C(=C)NC(=O)C(CCC(O)=O)NC(=O)C(NC(=O)C(CCCCN)NC(=O)C(N)CC=4C5=CC=CC=C5NC=4)CSC3)C(C)SC2)C(C)C)C(C)SC1)CC1=CC=CC=C1 WPLOVIFNBMNBPD-ATHMIXSHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sulfonate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)=O BDHFUVZGWQCTTF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 150000003871 sulfonates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000003467 sulfuric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008399 tap water Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000020679 tap water Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960003080 taurine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000000383 tetramethylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- UEUXEKPTXMALOB-UHFFFAOYSA-J tetrasodium;2-[2-[bis(carboxylatomethyl)amino]ethyl-(carboxylatomethyl)amino]acetate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)CN(CC([O-])=O)CCN(CC([O-])=O)CC([O-])=O UEUXEKPTXMALOB-UHFFFAOYSA-J 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010496 thistle oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- DPUOLQHDNGRHBS-MDZDMXLPSA-N trans-Brassidic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C\CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O DPUOLQHDNGRHBS-MDZDMXLPSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940087291 tridecyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N triformin Chemical compound O=COCC(OC=O)COC=O UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940098385 triisostearin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960004799 tryptophan Drugs 0.000 description 1
- OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N tyrosine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940035936 ubiquinone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- KJIOQYGWTQBHNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N undecanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCO KJIOQYGWTQBHNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000011144 upstream manufacturing Methods 0.000 description 1
- AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N urea hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO.NC(N)=O AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000008170 walnut oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/415—Aminophenols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
- A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
- A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a hair-sparing dye for oxidative hair coloring and a gentle process for oxidative hair coloring, are protected in the keratinic fibers from oxidative influences.
- the oxidative dyeing of hair poses the problem that scalp irritation and damage to the keratin fiber may occur due to the aggressive agents.
- the natural hydrophobicity of the keratinic fiber is reduced because the Klarbepart. Lightening agent must make the hair first penetrate to develop their effect.
- the water-repellent effect is on the one hand a natural protection of the hair, on the other hand, the consumer desired parameters such as shine, suppleness, grip and "falling" of the hair are closely linked to her.
- pre-treatment agents are on the market, which should protect the hair from the aggressive influence.
- these often complicate the hair or impair the success of the subsequent lightening or coloring of the hair; in particular, the washfastness of the dyeing may be degraded by the pretreatment agent.
- post-treatment agents which attempt to repair the hair damage caused by the oxidative dyeing treatment.
- all these methods require a multi-stage application process, just either the dyeing upstream or downstream application of another hair treatment agent. This is often perceived by the consumer as annoying, since even the oxidative dyeing is very complex even with several steps and a contact time of up to 60 minutes.
- a colorant and a method should be provided in which the hair is not weighted and the lowest possible hair damage occurs.
- the hair protection should be as little time-consuming and possible together with the dyeing step itself.
- EP 1771 144 B1 discloses hair conditioning agents with amino-functional silicones.
- the agents described there are aftertreatment agents.
- EP 1312334 B1 aminosilicone and thickener
- EP 1312335 B1 aminosilicone and conditioner
- the present invention is in a first embodiment, a Oxidationsfärbe- medium for the oxidative color change keratinischer fibers, in particular human hair, immediately before use by mixing of at least one composition
- (B) contains at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V),
- End group B (Si-bonded) or D (O-linked), B is a group -OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
- D is a group -H, -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 , a, b and c are integers from 0 to 990, with the proviso a + b + c> 0 m, n and o stand for integers from 2 to 990.
- Oxidation dyes which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise the at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V), which in each case has at least one of the structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III), in a total amount of 0.001 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.005 to 2 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1 wt.%, most preferably 0 to 1 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oxidation colorant, included.
- the oxidation dyes according to the invention and the preferred oxidation dyes according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) is contained in the composition (A).
- composition (A) comprises at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V), which in each case has at least one of the structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III) a total amount of 0.002 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2 wt .-%, most preferably 0.2 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the composition (A).
- the oxidation dyes according to the invention and the preferred oxidation dyes according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) is contained in the composition (B).
- composition (B) comprises at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V), which in each case has at least one of the structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III) a total amount of 0.002 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2 wt .-%, most preferably 0.2 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the composition (B).
- oxidation dyes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) in water-emulsified form.
- Particularly preferred oxidation colorants contain 30-85% by weight, preferably 40-80% by weight, more preferably 50-75% by weight, most preferably 60-70% by weight of water, in each case based on the total weight of the oxidation colorant.
- Particularly preferred oxidation colorants comprise the at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which the number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion is in the range from 3 to 500 nm, preferably in the range from 5 to 60 nm.
- the structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III) can be statistically distributed in the molecule
- the silicones used in the invention may also be block copolymers of blocks of the individual structural units, wherein the blocks may in turn be present statistically distributed.
- the * at the free valences of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) stands for a bond to one of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) or for an end group B (Si-bonded) or D (O-bound).
- Silicones particularly preferably used in the context of the present invention have at least one terminal dimethylsilylhydroxy group, ie are selected from silicones in which
- the structural unit (III) becomes one of the structural units (IIIa), (IIIb) or (Never):
- the subscripts m, n and o may be integers from 2 to 990.
- the second case also covers oligomeric or polymeric radicals which contain at least two different structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III), as shown in formula (IIId):
- b and c are integers from 0 to 990, with the proviso a + b + c> 0 and n and o are integers from 1 to 990.
- A is half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) (represents in the structural unit (Never) or for -OH (shown in the structural unit (Nif)
- the structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III) can preferably be present in random distribution.
- Contain pretreatment agents preferably used according to the invention at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V)
- A is a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) attached via an -O- or an oligomeric or polymeric radical bonded via an -O- containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or Half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or is -OH,
- B is a group -OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
- a, b and c are integers from 0 to 990, with the proviso that a + b + c> 0
- n and o stand for integers from 1 to 990.
- Structural formula (V) is intended to make it clear that the siloxane groups n and o do not necessarily have to be bound directly to an end grouping B or D, respectively. Rather, in preferred formulas (V) a> 0 or b> 0 and in particularly preferred formulas (V) a> 0 and b> 0, i. the terminal moiety B or D is preferably linked to a dimethylsiloxy moiety. Also in formula (V), the siloxane units a, b, c, n and o are preferably randomly distributed.
- Silicones particularly preferably used in the context of the present invention have at least one terminal dimethylsilylhydroxy group, ie are selected from silicones in which
- formula (V) is thus specified to one of the formulas (Va), (Vb), (Vc), (Vd), (Ve) or (Vf):
- the structural unit (III) or the siloxane units o in the formulas (V) can form via the group A nest or partial cage structures, if A stands for a half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III).
- Inventive pretreatment agents containing silicones with corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silsesquioxane partial structures are preferred according to the invention, since these silicones result in enormously improved hair protection in the oxidative dyeing treatment.
- oxidation dyes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone which has structural units of the formula (VI)
- R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 independently of one another, denote -H, -CH 3 , a group D, a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical comprising structural units of the formulas (I), (II ) or (III) or
- R 5 -CH 3 or a structural unit of the formula (I) or (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III)
- R 6 -OH, -CH 3 , or a structural unit of the formula (I) or (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III).
- at least one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 is an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III).
- at least one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 is an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I) and (II).
- at least one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 is an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I) and (II).
- At least one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 is preferably a - [- Si (CH 3 ) 2 -O] m - grouping, ie an oligo- or polymer of the structural unit (I).
- the structural unit (II) or an oligo- or polymer thereof is preferably never alone, but always bound in a random distribution with further structural units of the formula (I) as one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 in the molecule.
- Preferred silicones of the formula (VI) can be described by the formula (VI a)
- R 1 , R 2 and R 4 independently of one another, denote -H, -CH 3 , a group D, a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical comprising structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) stand or
- R 5 -CH 3 or a structural unit of the formula (I) or (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III)
- R 6 -OH, -CH 3 , or a structural unit of the formula (I) or (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III)
- A is a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) attached via an -O- or an oligomeric or polymeric radical bonded via an -O- containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or Half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or is -OH, D for a group -H; -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 , a, b and c are integers from 0 to 990, with the proviso a + b + c > 0, n and o stand for integers from 1 to 990.
- radicals and indices are as defined above and the indices d and e stand for integers from 0 to 990.
- At least one of the groupings D is preferably -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH.
- silsesquioxane structures can be even more pronounced in the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones used according to the invention, which enhances the advantageous effects.
- Particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone which has structural units of the formula (VII),
- a radical is 4-morpholinomethyl
- siloxane units m, n and o or a, b, c, x and y are present randomly distributed.
- Particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention comprise at least one silicone of the following formula (VII a)
- Very particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention contain at least one silicone of the following formula (VIIb)
- the bridging oxygen atoms between the morpholinomethyl-substituted silicon atoms can also be represented by a - [- Si (CH 3 ) 2 -O] m grouping, ie an oligo- or polymer of the structural unit (I), be extended.
- Corresponding oxidation colorants according to the invention are those which comprise at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone which contains structural units of the formula (VIII)
- A represents a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) attached via an -O- or an oligomeric or polymeric radical bonded via an -O-, containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or is half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or for -OH,
- R is a residue 4-morpholinomethyl
- R6 is -H or the grouping
- oxidation colorants contain at least one silicone of the following formula (VIII a)
- Very particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention contain at least one silicone of the following formula (VIII b)
- oxidation dyes of the invention containing a 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone in which more than 50 mole% of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, ie in which the structural unit (I) makes up at least half of all the structural units of the silicone used.
- silicones are preferred in which m> (n + o) or (a + b + c)> (n + o).
- Still further preferred oxidation dyes of the present invention include a 4-morpholino methyl substituted silicone in which more than 87.5 mole percent of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, i. in which the structural unit (I) makes up more than 875 thousandths of all the structural units of the silicone used.
- silicones are preferred in which m> 8 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 8 (n + o).
- Still further preferred oxidation dyes of the present invention include a 4-morpholino methyl substituted silicone in which more than 96 mole percent of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, i. in which the structural unit (I) is at least ninety-six hundredths of all the structural units of the silicone used.
- silicones are preferred in which m> 25 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 25 (n + o).
- Still further preferred oxidation dyes of the present invention include a 4-morpholino methyl substituted silicone in which more than 98.7 mole percent of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, i. in which the structural unit (I) comprises at least nine hundred and seventy-seven thousandths of all the structural units of the silicone used.
- silicones are preferred in which m> 77 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 77 (n + o).
- Still further preferred oxidation dyes of the present invention include a 4-morpholino methyl substituted silicone in which more than 99.5 mole percent of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, i. in which the structural unit (I) is at least nine hundred and ninety-five thousandths of all the structural units of the silicone used.
- silicones are preferred in which m> 200 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 200 (n + o).
- preferred oxidation dyes according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone in which m> (n + o) or (a + b + c)> (n + o), respectively
- hydroxy-terminated (s) 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone (s) is / are present in which the molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy in the range of 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1, preferably in the range of 1: 0.8 to 1: 1, 1.
- oxidation colorants are characterized in that the weight-average molar mass of the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) used in step a is in the range from 2,000 to 1,000,000 gmol 1 , preferably in the range from 5,000 to 200,000 gmol -1 .
- the average molar masses of amino-substituted silicones can be measured, for example, by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature in polystyrene.
- GPC gel permeation chromatography
- columns Styragel columns ⁇ , as eluent THF and as flow rate 1 ml / min can be selected.
- the detection is preferably carried out by means of refractometry and UV meter.
- Belsil ADM 8301 E Ex Wacker Silicones
- Belsil ADM 8301 E is a microemulsion and consists of the following constituents: amodimethicone / morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane (10% by weight); Trideceth-5 (5 wt%); Glycerin (2.5% by weight), phenoxyethanol (0.45% by weight) and water (82.05% by weight).
- the oxidation colorants according to the invention can be further improved if certain nonionic components are likewise present in the pretreatment agents used according to the invention.
- these nonionic components have positive effects on the storage stability of the oxidation colorants according to the invention.
- Nonionic components which are particularly useful herein are ethoxylates of decanol, undecanol, dodecanol, tridecanol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and / or stearyl alcohol.
- Particularly suitable ethoxylated tridecanols have proven to be incorporated with particular preference in the oxidation according to the invention.
- particularly preferred oxidation colorants contain - in each case based on their weight - 0.001 - 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 - 3.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 - 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 - 1 Wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 - 0.5 wt .-% branched, ethoxylated tridecanol, particularly preferably 0.001 - 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 - 3.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 - Wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 0.5 wt .-% branched, ethoxylated tridecanol with 3
- the oxidation colorants of the invention may contain other ingredients. Preference is given here to the use of polyhydric alcohols which have moisturizing properties.
- glycerin is preferred.
- mixtures of two of the three polyhydric alcohols or all three polyhydric alcohols may be preferred.
- a mixture of glycerol, sorbitol and 1,2-propylene glycol in a weight ratio of 1: (0.5-1): (0.1-0.5) has proved particularly advantageous.
- polyhydric alcohols are those having at least 2 OH groups, preferably mannitol, xylitol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol and mixtures thereof.
- these compounds those having 2 to 12 OH groups, and especially those having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred.
- the (n, n + 1) or (n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used.
- polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols.
- polyhydric alcohols may, for.
- Particularly preferred is the use of glycerol, so that agents which contain no other polyhydric alcohols other than glycerol are particularly preferred.
- the use of certain care substances in the oxidation colorants according to the invention is preferred.
- Oxidation colorants which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally comprise care substance (s) in a total amount of 0.001-10 wt.%, Preferably 0.005-7.5 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.01-5 wt.%, And in particular 0.05 - 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the oxidation colorant included.
- care substances are selected from at least one of the following groups:
- preferred oxidation dyes according to the invention may contain one or more amino acids.
- Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, ⁇ Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine, L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5' -hydroxy- L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfox
- Preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges.
- preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as a care substance, 0.01-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.02-2.5 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.05-1.5 wt preferably 0.075-1% by weight and in particular 0.1-1.25% by weight of amino acid (s), preferably from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or Threonine, in each case based on the total weight of the Oxidationsfmaschinem itte Is.
- the oxidation dye according to the invention can be formulated as a water-based emulsion, as a spray, as a cream, gel, lotion, paste or shampoo.
- the composition (B) used as part of the oxidation colorant according to the invention contains as the first compulsory ingredient at least one oxidizing agent.
- Preferred oxidizing agents are selected from peroxo compounds, preferably selected from hydrogen peroxide, solid addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, Natriumper- carbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone n H 2 0 2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0 ), Urea peroxide and melamine peroxide, furthermore selected from diammonium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as ammonium persulfate), disodium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as sodium persulfate) and dialkyl peroxodisulfate (also referred to as potassium persulfate) and from mixtures of these oxidizing agents.
- diammonium peroxodisulfate also referred to as ammonium pers
- Oxidants which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions.
- concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; Preferably, 6-12% by weight solutions in water are used.
- Oxidation dyes which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (B) used for their preparation, based on their weight, is 1 to 24% by weight, preferably 4 to 10% by weight, more preferably 3 to 6% by weight, of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H 2 0 2 ).
- the dyeing composition (A) which contains one or more oxidation dye precursors and optionally one or more substantive dyes is usually mixed with an aqueous oxidizing agent-containing composition (B) to form the ready-to-apply (inventive) oxidation dye shortly before application to the hair mixed and then applied to the hair.
- the dyeing composition (A) and the oxidizing agent-containing composition (B) are coordinated so that at a mixing ratio of 1 to 1, based on parts by weight, in the hair dye, an initial concentration of hydrogen peroxide of 0.5 to 12 wt .-%, preferably 2 - 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 3-6 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H 2 0 2 ) based on the weight of the oxidation colorant is present.
- Oxidation colorants preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an initial amount of hydrogen peroxide of 0.5-12% by weight, preferably 2-10% by weight, particularly preferably 3-6% by weight of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H 2 0 2 ), in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
- oxidation dyes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 5 to 50% by weight, preferably 8 to 40% by weight, more preferably 12 to 30% by weight, most preferably 15 to 25% by weight .-%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
- the pH of the preferred oxidation colorant according to the invention is in the range of 7 and 11, in particular in the range of 8 and 10.5.
- the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
- the alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention for adjusting the preferred pH can be selected from the group of ammonia, basic amino acids, alkali metal hydroxides, alkanolamines, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal phosphates and alkali metal hydrogenphosphates.
- the alkali metal ions used are preferably lithium, sodium, potassium, in particular sodium or potassium.
- the basic amino acids which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D, L-lysine, particularly preferably L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine used as an alkalizing agent according to the invention.
- the alkali metal hydroxides which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
- alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from primary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
- Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-amino-ethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol , 1-Aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropane-1 -ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol.
- Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
- peroxide salts are ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, and mixtures thereof.
- the at least one persulfate salt is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 1 to 15 wt .-%, based on the weight of the oxidation of the invention.
- the composition (B) used to prepare the oxidation dye of the present invention contains at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 10 to 80% by weight based on the weight of the composition (B).
- the cosmetic oil is liquid under normal conditions (20 ° C, 1013.25 mbar); essential oils and perfume oils or fragrances are not counted among the cosmetic oils. Under normal conditions liquid cosmetic oils are immiscible with water.
- Essential oils according to the invention are understood to mean mixtures of volatile components which are prepared by steam distillation from vegetable raw materials, such as. B. citrus oils. As far as in the present application of a cosmetic oil is mentioned, this is always a cosmetic oil that is not a fragrance and no essential oil, is liquid under normal conditions and immiscible with water.
- a fragrance in the sense of the present application is in accordance with the expert definition as it can be found in the R ⁇ MPP Chemie Lexikon, as of December 2007. Thereafter, a fragrance is a chemical compound with odor and / or taste that excites the hair cell receptors of the olfactory system (adequate stimulus).
- the physical and chemical properties required for this purpose are a low molecular weight of at most 300 g / mol, a high vapor pressure, minimal water and high lipid solubility, as well as weak polarity and the presence of at least one osmophoric group in the molecule.
- fragrances according to the invention have a molecular weight of 74 to 300 g / mol, contain at least one osmophoric group in the molecule and have a smell and / or taste, that is, they excite the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system.
- preferred cosmetic oils are selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably of paraffin oils, C 18 -C 3 o-isoparaffins, especially isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, for example, under the designation Emery ® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name Ethylflo ® from Albemarle or Nexbase ® 2004G from Nestle are available, further selected from C 8 -C 16 -lsoparaffinen, in particular from isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane, and isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, as well as 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (obtainable, for.
- paraffin oils particularly preferably of paraffin oils, C 18 -C 3 o-isoparaffins, especially isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, for example, under the designation Emery ®
- Further inventively preferred cosmetic oils are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C 8 -22-alkanols. Particularly preferred are benzoic C12-C15 alkyl esters, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® TN, benzoic acid isostearyl, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® SB, ethylhexyl benzoate, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® EB, and Benzoeklareoctyldocecylester, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® BOD.
- Further inventively preferred cosmetic oils are selected from fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated.
- the branched alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, since they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction.
- Preferred oils are alcohol 2-hexyldecanol (Eutanol ® G 16) 2-octyldodecanol (Eutanol ® G), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol.
- More preferred cosmetic oils are chosen from mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, for example the commercial product Cetiol ® PGL (2-hexyl decanol and 2-hexyl decyl laurate).
- Particularly preferred may be the use of natural oils, eg, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil , Marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, Brazil nut oil, pecan oil, peach kernel rapeseed oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil
- particularly preferred cosmetic oils are selected from the dicarboxylic bonklad of linear or branched C 2 -C 0 alkanols, especially diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di- n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.
- Further cosmetic oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated.
- These include 2-hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ® G 16 S), 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ® 868).
- cosmetic oils are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C 8 -22-alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ®).
- propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C 8 -22-alkanols such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ®).
- Further inventively preferred cosmetic oils are selected from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C 3 _22 alkanols such as glycerol, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, which may be esterified if desired, for.
- PPG-14 butyl ether Ucon Fluid ® AP
- PPG-9-butyl ether Breox B25 ®
- PPG-10 butanediol Macol ® 57
- PPG-15 stearyl ether Arlamol ® E
- Gly - reth-7-diisononanoate As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ® AP), PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ®), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ® 57), PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ®
- compositions according to the invention are selected from the C 8 -C 2 2 fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C 2 -C 7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid.
- esters based on linear C 14/15 alkanols, eg. B.
- Ci2 / i 3-alkanols are under the trademark Cosmacol ® from the company Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, refer, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol ® ESI, Cosmacol® ® EMI and Cosmacol® ® EIT.
- cosmetic oils according to the invention are selected from the symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C 3 . 2 2-alkanols, C 3 . 2 -alkanediols or C 3 -22-alkanetriols, e.g. B. dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC) or the esters according to the teaching of DE 19756454 A1, in particular glycerol carbonate.
- cosmetic oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C 12 -C 2 2 fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C 2 -C 8 -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C 2 -C 6 alkanols.
- silicone oils which are suitable according to the invention are selected from the silicone oils to which z.
- Dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane.
- Preferred may be volatile silicone oils, which may be cyclic, such as.
- octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, as described, for example, in US Pat. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning.
- volatile linear silicone oils in particular hexamethyldisiloxane (L 2 ), octamethyltrisiloxane (L 3 ), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L 4 ) as well as any mixtures of two and three of L 2 , L 3 and / or L 4 , preferably mixtures such as those described, for example , In the commercial products DC 2-1 184, Dow Corning® 200 (0.65 cSt) and Dow Corning 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning.
- Preferred nonvolatile silicone oils are selected from higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available e.g.
- compositions used in the invention (B) are characterized in that the cosmetic oil is selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably of paraffin oils, C 3 -C 18 o-isoparaffins, especially isoeicosane, polyisobutylene butenes and polydecenes, C 8 -C 16 -lsoparaffins, as well as 1, 3-di (2-ethylhexyl) cyclohexane; the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C 8 -22-alkanols; Fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated; Triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8 -3o fatty acids, in particular natural oils; the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 0 alkanols; the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated
- 2 2-alkanols ; the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units of monovalent or polyvalent C 3 . 2 2-alkanols; the C 8 -C 2 2 fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C 2 -C 7 hydroxycarboxylic acids; the symmetric, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C 3 . 2 2-alkanols, C 3 . 2 2-alkanediols or C 3 .
- Preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (B) used for their preparation comprises at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 12-70% by weight, preferably 14-60% by weight, particularly preferably 15-52% by weight. % and most preferably 17-35% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition (B).
- composition (B) used according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant.
- Suitable surfactants according to the invention it is particularly preferred to use a mixture of surfactants in order to optimally adjust the stability of the oxidizing agent compositions (B) used according to the invention.
- Preferred oxidation dyes of the invention are characterized in that the surfactant contained in the composition (B) is selected from nonionic surfactants and anionic surfactants, as well as mixtures thereof.
- Particularly preferably used nonionic see surfactants are selected from with 20 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated castor oil, ethoxylated C 8 -C 2 4-alkanols with 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, ethoxylated C 8 -C 24 carboxylic acids with 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per Mol, with 20 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C 12 -C 30 carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic, palmitic, stearic or mixtures of these fatty acids, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alky
- compositions (B) which are preferably used according to the invention.
- the ethoxylated C 8 -C 2 alkanols have the formula R 0 (CH 2 CH 2 0) n H, where R is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 10 to 100, preferably 10 to 30, particularly preferably 15 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol , Oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof.
- adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol are suitable.
- Particularly preferred are laureth-10, laureth-12, laureth-15, laureth-20, laureth-30, myreth-10, myreth-12, myreth-15, myreth-20, myreth-30, ceteth-10, ceteth-12 , Ceteth-15, ceteth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-10, steareth-12 steareth-15, steareth-20, steareth-30, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-15, oleth-20, oleth- 30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30 and coceth-10, coceth-12, coceth-15, coceth-20 and coceth-30.
- the ethoxylated C 8 -C 24 carboxylic acids have the formula R 0 (CH 2 CH 2 O) n H, where R 0 is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide Units per molecule, for numbers from 10 to 100, preferably 10 to 30 moles ethylene oxide to 1 mole caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, cetylic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic , Arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and their technical mixtures.
- Adducts of 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are also suitable. Particularly preferred are PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate.
- Preferred 20 - 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C 2 - C 30 carboxylic acids, which can be hydroxylated are selected from Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate-40, Polysorbate-60, and Polysorbate-80th
- C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides preference is given to using C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides.
- C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms.
- the glycoside residue it is true that both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable.
- the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products. Products which are obtainable under the trademark Plantacare ®, a glucosidically bonded C 8 -C 6 alkyl group included in an oligoglucoside whose average degree of oligomerization with 1-2, particularly 1, 2 - 1, 4 is located.
- Particularly preferred C 8 -C 2 2-alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are selected from octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, palmityl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and behenyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.
- the glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers.
- Suitable anionic surfactants in the compositions (B) used according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use in the human body which have a water-solubilizing, anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group, and have lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the molecule.
- anionic group for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group
- lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the molecule.
- glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
- anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C Atoms (soaps), polyethoxylated ether carboxylic acids, acylsarcosides, acyl taurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 1 to 6 ethylene oxide groups, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having up to 6 double bonds, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids, C 8 -C 2 o-alkyl sulfates and C 8 -C
- Preferred anionic surfactants are soaps, C 8 -C 2 o-alkyl sulfates, C 8 -C 20 -alkyl ether sulfates and C 8 -C 20 -Ethercarbon Acid having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule. Particularly preferred is sodium cetearyl sulfate.
- the total amount of at least one surfactant in the oxidizing agent composition (B) is preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight and more preferably 1 to 2% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the oxidizer composition (B).
- the oxidizing agent composition (B) used according to the invention particularly preferably contains a total of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 2% by weight. %, each based on the total weight of the oxidizer composition (B), a mixture of nonionic and anionic surfactants.
- composition (B) used according to the invention contains at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12-30 carbon atoms.
- Preferred linear saturated alkanols with 12-30 carbon atoms, in particular with 16-22 carbon atoms are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol and mixtures of these alkanols.
- Alkanol mixtures which are particularly preferred according to the invention are those obtainable in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids.
- the total amount of at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12 to 30 carbon atoms in the oxidizing agent composition (B) is preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight and more preferably 3 to 5% by weight .-%, each based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent composition (B).
- composition (B) used according to the invention comprises:
- At least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 12-70 wt.%, preferably 14-60 wt.%, particularly preferably 15-52 wt.% and most preferably 17-35 wt.%, furthermore at least one surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1 to 2 wt .-%, and
- the composition (A) used to prepare the oxidation dyes of the invention contains at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor.
- oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories, so-called developer components and coupler components.
- Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Developer components can form the actual dye with themselves.
- the developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. In the case of substances having amino groups, however, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides or hydrobromides or of the sulfates.
- Particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2 -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N , N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-Bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) propan-2-ol, N, N
- Very particularly preferred developer components are selected from 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4 -Amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine and mixtures of these compounds and their physiologically acceptable salts.
- Extraordinary preference is given to 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and its physiologically tolerated salts.
- the developer components are preferably used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, and most preferably from 0.6 to 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition (A), used.
- the developer components are preferably in a total amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, and most preferably 0.3 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready for use Colorant, used.
- ready-to-use colorant is understood as meaning the mixture of all oxidation dye precursors and all oxidizing agents, if appropriate in combination with a suitable cosmetic carrier, for example a cream base, and optionally in combination with at least one substantive dye.
- Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This forms a covalent bond between the coupler and the developer component.
- Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds which carry at least two groups on the cycle, selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxyl groups.
- the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), said groups are preferably in ortho position or meta position to each other.
- Pyrazolone derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
- Morpholine derivatives such as, for example, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
- the at least one coupler component is preferably in a total amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 10 wt .-%, and most preferably 0.6 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the weight the composition (A) used.
- the at least one coupler component is preferably used in a total amount of 0.005-10 wt%, preferably 0.1-5 wt%, and most preferably 0.3-2.5 wt%, each based on the weight of Oxidation colorant of the invention used.
- the following combinations of oxidation dye precursors of the developer type and of the coupler type are particularly preferred, the amine compounds being and the nitrogen heterocycles can also be present in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts:
- Particularly preferred according to the invention are the combinations 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 3-aminophenol and p-toluenediamine / 3-aminophenol.
- the combination is 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 3-aminophenol.
- the oxidation colorants of the invention may additionally contain at least one substantive dye. These are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
- a further subject of the present application is a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following process steps: i) Preparation of an oxidation colorant for the color change of keratinic fibers according to one of claims 1 to 14 immediately prior to use by mixing at least one composition (A) comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one alkalizing agent, at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor containing at least one cosmetic oil in a total of 10, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. 80% by weight, based on the weight of the composition (B), and hydrogen peroxide,
- step ii) applying the ready oxidation dye from step i) to the keratin fibers to be treated and leaving the oxidation dye for a period of from 5 to 60 minutes on the fibers;
- compositions (A) or (B) contains at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V),
- End group B Si-bonded or D (O-linked),
- B is a group -OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
- D is a group -H, -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
- a, b and c are integers from 0 to 990, with the proviso that a + b + c> 0
- n, o stand for integers from 1 to 990.
- a preferred process according to the invention is characterized in that the reaction time in step ii) is 15 to 50 minutes, more preferably 30 to 45 minutes.
- compositions (A) and (B) used to prepare the oxidation colorants of the invention are preferably offered as a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts).
- kit-of-parts For preferred embodiments of the abovementioned kit-of-parts according to the invention, mutatis mutandis, the statements made regarding the preferred oxidation dyes and the preferred methods apply.
- the oxidation stain remained on the streaks for 30 minutes each.
- the strands were then rinsed with 32 ° C tap water at a flow rate of 0.5 liters per minute for 2 minutes. Subsequently, the strands were combed three times before the actual combability measurements (10 combs of 20 strands each) were carried out.
- Toluene-2,5-diamines sulfates 0.02 0.02
- Polyquaternium-39 (ex Merquat 3330) 0.05 0.05 0.05
- Citric Acid 0.002 0.002
- the oxidation dye of the present invention combining 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones of the formula (V) with a high-oil-content oxidizing agent composition (B) brings a further very marked reduction in wet combing work and splitting rate.
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Abstract
The invention concerns an oxidation hair dye for oxidatively changing the colour of keratin fibres, in particular human hair, the oxidation hair dye being produced immediately before application by the mixing of at least one composition (A), containing in a cosmetically suitable carrier at least one basifier, at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type, with at least one composition (B), containing in a cosmetically suitable carrier at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 10 - 80 wt. %, relative to the weight of composition (B), and hydrogen peroxide, characterized in that at least one of the compositions (A) and (B) contains at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of formula (V).
Description
"Haarschonendes Oxidationsfärbemittel mit ölhaltiger Oxidationsmittelzusammensetzung" "Hair-friendly oxidation colorant with oily oxidizing agent composition"
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft ein Haarschonendes Färbemittel zur oxidativen Haarfärbung sowie ein schonendes Verfahren zur oxidativen Haarfärbung, bei dem keratinische Fasern vor oxidativen Einflüssen geschützt werden. The present invention relates to a hair-sparing dye for oxidative hair coloring and a gentle process for oxidative hair coloring, are protected in the keratinic fibers from oxidative influences.
Beim oxidativen Färben von Haaren tritt das Problem auf, dass es aufgrund der aggressiven Agentien zu Irritationen auf der Kopfhaut und Schäden an der keratinischen Faser kommen kann. Insbesondere die natürliche Hydrophobizität der keratinischen Faser wird reduziert, da die Färbebzw. Aufhellmittel das Haar zunächst penetrationsfähig machen müssen, um ihre Wirkung zu entfalten. Die wasserabweisende Wirkung ist aber einerseits ein natürlicher Schutz des Haares, andererseits sind vom Verbraucher erwünschte Parameter wie Glanz, Geschmeidigkeit, Griff und „Fallen" der Haare eng mit ihr verknüpft. The oxidative dyeing of hair poses the problem that scalp irritation and damage to the keratin fiber may occur due to the aggressive agents. In particular, the natural hydrophobicity of the keratinic fiber is reduced because the Färbebzw. Lightening agent must make the hair first penetrate to develop their effect. The water-repellent effect is on the one hand a natural protection of the hair, on the other hand, the consumer desired parameters such as shine, suppleness, grip and "falling" of the hair are closely linked to her.
Um die genannten Nachteile zu überwinden, sind so genannte Vorbehandlungsmittel auf dem Markt, die das Haar vor dem aggressiven Einfluss schützen sollen. Diese beschweren das Haar aber oft oder beeinträchtigen den Erfolg der im Anschluss stattfindenden Aufhellung bzw. Färbung des Haares; insbesondere die Waschechtheit der Färbung kann durch das Vorbehandlungsmittel verschlechtert sein. Auch sind zahlreiche Nachbehandlungsmittel bekannt, mit denen versucht wird, die bei der oxidativen Färbebehandlung verursachten Haarschädigungen zu reparieren. Alle diese Verfahren erfordern aber ein mehrstufiges Anwendungsverfahren, eben entweder eine dem Färben vor- oder nachgelagerte Applikation eines weiteren Haarbehandlungsmittels. Dies wird vom Verbraucher häufig als lästig wahrgenommen, da bereits die oxidative Färbebehandlung selbst mit mehreren Arbeitsschritten und einer Einwirkzeit von bis zu 60 Minuten sehr aufwändig ist. In order to overcome the mentioned disadvantages, so-called pre-treatment agents are on the market, which should protect the hair from the aggressive influence. However, these often complicate the hair or impair the success of the subsequent lightening or coloring of the hair; in particular, the washfastness of the dyeing may be degraded by the pretreatment agent. Also known are numerous post-treatment agents which attempt to repair the hair damage caused by the oxidative dyeing treatment. However, all these methods require a multi-stage application process, just either the dyeing upstream or downstream application of another hair treatment agent. This is often perceived by the consumer as annoying, since even the oxidative dyeing is very complex even with several steps and a contact time of up to 60 minutes.
Der vorliegenden Erfindung lag die Aufgabe zugrunde, ein Mittel und ein Verfahren zur oxidativen Haarfärbung mit einer Haar schützenden Behandlung bereitzustellen, das die genannten Nachteile überwindet, ohne das Farbergebnis der oxidativen Färbebehandlung negativ zu beeinflussen. Dabei sollten insbesondere ein Färbemittel und ein Verfahren bereitgestellt werden, bei dem das Haar nicht beschwert wird und eine möglichst geringe Haarschädigung auftritt. Weiterhin sollte der erzielte Haarschutz möglichst wenig zeitaufwändig sein und möglichst zusammen mit dem Färbeschritt selbst erfolgen. It is an object of the present invention to provide an agent and a method for oxidative hair coloring with a hair-protecting treatment which overcomes the mentioned disadvantages without negatively influencing the color result of the oxidative dyeing treatment. In particular, a colorant and a method should be provided in which the hair is not weighted and the lowest possible hair damage occurs. Furthermore, the hair protection should be as little time-consuming and possible together with the dyeing step itself.
Der Einsatz von aminierten Silikonen in der Haarpflege ist Stand der Technik. Diese werden in Shampoos und insbesondere in Conditionern breit eingesetzt, um dort Pflegeffekte zu entfalten. So offenbart die EP 1771 144 B1 haarkonditionierende Mittel mit aminofunktionellen Siliconen. Die dort beschriebenen Mittel sind Nachbehandlungsmittel. The use of aminated silicones in hair care is state of the art. These are widely used in shampoos and especially in conditioners to develop nurturing effects there. Thus, EP 1771 144 B1 discloses hair conditioning agents with amino-functional silicones. The agents described there are aftertreatment agents.
Auch die europäischen Patente EP 1312334 B1 (Aminosilicon und Verdicker) sowie EP 1312335 B1 (Aminosilicon und Conditioner) offenbaren Haarnachbehandlungsmittel. The European patents EP 1312334 B1 (aminosilicone and thickener) and EP 1312335 B1 (aminosilicone and conditioner) also disclose hair aftertreatment agents.
Es wurde nun gefunden, dass ein Färbemittel, enthaltend spezielle 4-Morpholinomethyl-substitu- ierte Silikone zu deutlich verbessertem Haarschutz bei der oxidativen Färbebehandlung führt, ohne dass die Ergebnisse der oxidativen Färbebehandlung beeinträchtigt werden. Weiterhin werden mit
den erfindungsgemäßen Färbemitteln besonders gute Färbeergebnisse, insbesondere Färbungen mit einer hohen Waschechtheit, erzielt. It has now been found that a colorant containing specific 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones leads to markedly improved hair protection in the oxidative dyeing treatment without impairing the results of the oxidative dyeing treatment. Continue to be with the dyeing compositions according to the invention particularly good dyeing results, in particular dyeings with a high wash fastness achieved.
Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist in einer ersten Ausführungsform ein Oxidationsfärbe- mittel zur oxidativen Farbveränderung keratinischer Fasern, insbesondere menschlicher Haare, das unmittelbar vor der Anwendung durch Vermischen von mindestens einer Zusammensetzung The present invention is in a first embodiment, a Oxidationsfärbe- medium for the oxidative color change keratinischer fibers, in particular human hair, immediately before use by mixing of at least one composition
(A) , enthaltend in einem kosmetisch geeigneten Träger mindestens ein Alkalisierungsmittel, mindestens ein Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukt vom Entwicklertyp und mindestens ein Oxidationsfarb- stoffvorprodukt vom Kupplertyp, mit mindestens einer Zusammensetzung (B), enthaltend in einem kosmetischen geeigneten Träger mindestens ein kosmetisches Öl in einer Gesamtmenge von 10 - 80 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung (B), und Wasserstoffperoxid, hergestellt wird, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mindestens eine der Zusammensetzungen (A) oder(A) containing in a cosmetically suitable carrier at least one alkalizing agent, at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor having at least one composition (B) containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount 10 to 80 wt .-%, based on the weight of the composition (B), and hydrogen peroxide, is prepared, characterized in that at least one of the compositions (A) or
(B) mindestens ein 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituiertes Silikon der Formel (V) enthält, (B) contains at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V),
für eine über ein -O- gebundene Struktureinheit (I), (II) oder (III) for a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) attached via an -O-
oder für einen über ein -O- gebundenen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest, enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III), oder für die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) oder für -OH steht, or represents an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing an -O- radical, containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III), or represents half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or -OH .
für eine Bindung zu einer der Struktureinheiten (I), (II) oder (III) oder für eine for a bond to one of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) or for a
Endgruppe B (Si-gebunden) oder D (O-gebunden) steht,
B für eine Gruppe -OH, -0-Si(CH3)3, -0-Si(CH3)2OH, -0-Si(CH3)2OCH3 steht,End group B (Si-bonded) or D (O-linked), B is a group -OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
D für eine Gruppe -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3 steht, a, b und c für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 990 stehen, mit der Maßgabe a + b + c > 0 m, n und o für ganze Zahlen von 2 bis 990 stehen. D is a group -H, -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 , a, b and c are integers from 0 to 990, with the proviso a + b + c> 0 m, n and o stand for integers from 2 to 990.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie das mindestens eine 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituierte Silikon der Formel (V), das jeweils mindestens eine der Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) und (III) aufweist, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,001 bis 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,005 bis 2 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,01 - 1 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 0, 1 - 0,5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Oxidations- färbemittels, enthalten. Oxidation dyes which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise the at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V), which in each case has at least one of the structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III), in a total amount of 0.001 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.005 to 2 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1 wt.%, most preferably 0 to 1 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oxidation colorant, included.
In einer ersten bevorzugten Ausführungsform sind die erfindungsgemäßen sowie die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Oxidationsfärbemittel dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine 4- Morpholinomethyl-substituierte Silikon der Formel (V) in der Zusammensetzung (A) enthalten ist. Eine entsprechende Ausführungsform der Erfindung ist dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass Zusammensetzung (A) mindestens ein 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituiertes Silikon der Formel (V), das jeweils mindestens eine der Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) und (III) aufweist, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,002 bis 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,001 bis 4 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,02 - 2 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,2 - 1 ,0 Gew.-%, enthält, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung (A). In a first preferred embodiment, the oxidation dyes according to the invention and the preferred oxidation dyes according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) is contained in the composition (A). A corresponding embodiment of the invention is characterized in that composition (A) comprises at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V), which in each case has at least one of the structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III) a total amount of 0.002 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2 wt .-%, most preferably 0.2 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the composition (A).
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform sind die erfindungsgemäßen sowie die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Oxidationsfärbemittel dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine 4- Morpholinomethyl-substituierte Silikon der Formel (V) in der Zusammensetzung (B) enthalten ist. Eine entsprechende Ausführungsform der Erfindung ist dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass Zusammensetzung (B) mindestens ein 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituiertes Silikon der Formel (V), das jeweils mindestens eine der Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) und (III) aufweist, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,002 bis 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,001 bis 4 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,02 - 2 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,2 - 1 ,0 Gew.-%, enthält, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung (B). In a further preferred embodiment, the oxidation dyes according to the invention and the preferred oxidation dyes according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) is contained in the composition (B). A corresponding embodiment of the invention is characterized in that composition (B) comprises at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V), which in each case has at least one of the structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III) a total amount of 0.002 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2 wt .-%, most preferably 0.2 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the composition (B).
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie das mindestens eine 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituierte Silikon der Formel (V) in in Wasser emul- gierter Form enthalten. Further oxidation dyes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) in water-emulsified form.
Besonders bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel enthalten 30 - 85 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 40 - 80 Gew.- %, besonders bevorzugt 50 - 75 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 60 - 70 Gew.-% Wasser, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Oxidationsfärbemittels. Particularly preferred oxidation colorants contain 30-85% by weight, preferably 40-80% by weight, more preferably 50-75% by weight, most preferably 60-70% by weight of water, in each case based on the total weight of the oxidation colorant.
Besonders bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel enthalten das mindestens eine 4-Morpholinomethyl- substituierte Silikon der Formel (V) in Form einer ÖI-in-Wasser-Emulsion, in der die zahlenmittlere Größe der Siliconpartikel in der Emulsion im Bereich von 3 bis 500 nm, bevorzugt im Bereich von 5 bis 60 nm liegt. Particularly preferred oxidation colorants comprise the at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which the number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion is in the range from 3 to 500 nm, preferably in the range from 5 to 60 nm.
Die Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) und (III) können dabei statistisch verteilt im Molekül
vorliegen, die erfindungsgemäß eingesetzten Silikone können aber auch Blockcopolymere aus Blöcken der einzelnen Struktureinheiten sein, wobei die Blöcke wiederum statistisch verteilt vorliegen können. The structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III) can be statistically distributed in the molecule However, the silicones used in the invention may also be block copolymers of blocks of the individual structural units, wherein the blocks may in turn be present statistically distributed.
Der * an den freien Valenzen der Struktureinheiten (I), (II) oder (III) steht dabei für eine Bindung zu einer der Struktureinheiten (I), (II) oder (III) oder für eine Endgruppe B (Si-gebunden) oder D (O- gebunden). The * at the free valences of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) stands for a bond to one of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) or for an end group B (Si-bonded) or D (O-bound).
Die erfindungsgemäß eingesetzten Silikone können beidseitig Trimethylsilyl-terminiert sein (D = - Si(CH3)3, B = -0-Si(CH3)3), sie können aber auch ein- oder zweiseitig Dimethylsilylhydroxy- oder Dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminiert sein. Im Rahmen der vorliegenden Erfindung besonders bevorzugt eingesetzte Silikone weisen mindestens eine endständige Dimethylsilylhydroxy-Gruppe auf, d.h. sind ausgewählt aus Silikonen, in denen The silicones used according to the invention can be trimethylsilyl-terminated on both sides (D = -Si (CH 3 ) 3, B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 ), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy- or dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated one or two-sided. Silicones particularly preferably used in the context of the present invention have at least one terminal dimethylsilylhydroxy group, ie are selected from silicones in which
B = -0-Si(CH3)2OH und D = -Si(CH3)3 B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si (CH 3 ) 3
B = -0-Si(CH3)2OH und D = -Si(CH3)2OH B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH
B = -0-Si(CH3)2OH und D = -Si(CH3)2OCH3 B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3
B = -0-Si(CH3)3 und D = -Si(CH3)2OH B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 and D = -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH
B = -0-Si(CH3)2OCH3 und D = -Si(CH3)2OH B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 and D = -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH
bedeutet. Diese Silikone führen zu exorbitanten Verbesserungen der Haareigenschaften der mit den erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemitteln und nach dem erfindungsgemäßen Verfahren behandelten Haare, insbesondere zu einer gravierenden Verringerung des Kontaktwinkels. means. These silicones lead to exorbitant improvements in the hair properties of the hairs treated with the oxidation dyes according to the invention and by the method according to the invention, in particular to a serious reduction in the contact angle.
In der Struktureinheit (III) kann der Rest A In the structural unit (III), the radical A
- für eine über ein -O- gebundene Struktureinheit (I), (II) oder (III) oder for a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) or a group bonded via an -O- or
- einen über ein -O- gebundenen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III) an oligomeric or polymeric radical bonded via an -O- and containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III)
- oder die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) oder für -OH stehen. Im erstgenannten Fall wird die Struktureinheit (III) zu einer der Struktureinheiten (lila), (lllb) oder (Nie): - or half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or for -OH. In the former case, the structural unit (III) becomes one of the structural units (IIIa), (IIIb) or (Never):
mit m = n = o = 1 und A bzw. D wie vorstehend definiert. with m = n = o = 1 and A or D as defined above.
Im zweiten Fall können in den vorstehend genannten Formeln (lila), (lllb) und (lllc) die Indices m, n und o für ganze Zahlen von 2 bis 990 stehen. Der zweite Fall deckt aber auch oligomere oder poly- mere Reste, ab, die mindestens zwei verschiedene Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III) enthalten, wie in Formel (llld) dargestellt: In the second case, in the above formulas (IIIa), (IIIb) and (IIIc), the subscripts m, n and o may be integers from 2 to 990. However, the second case also covers oligomeric or polymeric radicals which contain at least two different structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III), as shown in formula (IIId):
in der a, b und c für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 990 stehen, mit der Maßgabe a + b + c > 0 sowie n und o für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 990 stehen. in the a, b and c are integers from 0 to 990, with the proviso a + b + c> 0 and n and o are integers from 1 to 990.
Im dritten Fall steht A die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) (dar estellt in der Struktureinheit (Nie) oder für -OH (dargestellt in der Struktureinheit (Nif) In the third case A is half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) (represents in the structural unit (Never) or for -OH (shown in the structural unit (Nif)
Wie bereits erwähnt, können die Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) und (III) bevorzugt statistisch verteilt vorliegen. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt verwendete Vorbehandlungsmittel enthalten
mindestens ein 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituiertes Silikon der Formel (V) As already mentioned, the structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III) can preferably be present in random distribution. Contain pretreatment agents preferably used according to the invention at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V)
in der in the
A für eine über ein -O- gebundene Struktureinheit (I), (II) oder (III) oder einen über ein -O- gebundenen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III) oder die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) oder für -OH steht, A is a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) attached via an -O- or an oligomeric or polymeric radical bonded via an -O- containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or Half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or is -OH,
B für eine Gruppe -OH, -0-Si(CH3)3, -0-Si(CH3)2OH, -0-Si(CH3)2OCH3 steht,B is a group -OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
D für eine Gruppe -H; -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3 steht, D for a group -H; -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
a, b und c für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 990 stehen, mit der Maßgabe a + b + c > 0 a, b and c are integers from 0 to 990, with the proviso that a + b + c> 0
n und o für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 990 stehen. n and o stand for integers from 1 to 990.
Strukturformel (V) soll verdeutlichen, dass die Siloxangruppen n und o nicht zwingend direkt an eine Endgruppierung B bzw. D gebunden sein müssen. Vielmehr gilt in bevorzugten Formeln (V) a > 0 oder b > 0 und in besonders bevorzugten Formeln (V) a > 0 und b > 0, d.h. die terminale Gruppierung B bzw. D ist bevorzugt an eine Dimethylsiloxy-Gruppierung gebunden. Auch in Formel (V) sind die Siloxaneinheiten a, b, c, n und o bevorzugt statistisch verteilt. Structural formula (V) is intended to make it clear that the siloxane groups n and o do not necessarily have to be bound directly to an end grouping B or D, respectively. Rather, in preferred formulas (V) a> 0 or b> 0 and in particularly preferred formulas (V) a> 0 and b> 0, i. the terminal moiety B or D is preferably linked to a dimethylsiloxy moiety. Also in formula (V), the siloxane units a, b, c, n and o are preferably randomly distributed.
Auch die durch Formel (V) dargestellten erfindungsgemäß eingesetzten Silikone können beidseitig Trimethylsilyl-terminiert sein (D = -Si(CH3)3, B = -0-Si(CH3)3), sie können aber auch ein- oder zweiseitig Dimethylsilylhydroxy- oder Dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminiert sein. Im Rahmen der vorliegenden Erfindung besonders bevorzugt eingesetzte Silikone weisen mindestens eine endständige Dimethylsilylhydroxy-Gruppe auf, d.h. sind ausgewählt aus Silikonen, in denen The silicones used according to the invention represented by formula (V) can also be trimethylsilyl-terminated on both sides (D = -Si (CH 3 ) 3, B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 ), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy on one or two sides - or dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated. Silicones particularly preferably used in the context of the present invention have at least one terminal dimethylsilylhydroxy group, ie are selected from silicones in which
B = -0-Si(CH3)2OH und D = -Si(CH3)3 B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si (CH 3 ) 3
B = -0-Si(CH3)2OH und D = -Si(CH3)2OH B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH
B = -0-Si(CH3)2OH und D = -Si(CH3)2OCH3 B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3
B = -0-Si(CH3)3 und D = -Si(CH3)2OH B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 and D = -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH
B = -0-Si(CH3)2OCH3 und D = -Si(CH3)2OH B = -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 and D = -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH
bedeutet. Diese 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituierte Silikon der Formel (V), das jeweils mindestens eine der Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) und (III) aufweist, führen zu überraschend hohen Verbesserungen der Haareigenschaften der mit den erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemitteln oder gemäß dem erfindungsgemäßen Verfahren behandelten Haare, insbesondere zu einem gravierend verbesserten Haarschutz und Farbschutz bei der oxidativen Haarfärbung. means. These 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V), which in each case has at least one of the structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III), lead to surprisingly high improvements in the hair properties of the oxidation dyes according to the invention or according to the invention Treated hair, in particular to a dramatically improved hair protection and color protection in oxidative hair coloring.
Auch in Formel (V) kann der Rest A
- für eine über ein -O- gebundene Struktureinheit (I), (II) oder (III) oder Also in formula (V), the radical A for a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) or a group bonded via an -O- or
- einen über ein -O- gebundenen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III) an oligomeric or polymeric radical bonded via an -O- and containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III)
- oder die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) oder für -OH stehen. - or half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or for -OH.
Analog den Ausführungen zur Struktureinheit (III) wird damit Formel (V) präzisiert zu einer der Formeln (Va), (Vb), (Vc), (Vd), (Ve) oder (Vf): Analogous to the comments on the structural unit (III), formula (V) is thus specified to one of the formulas (Va), (Vb), (Vc), (Vd), (Ve) or (Vf):
(Vb)
(Vb)
Die Struktureinheit (III) bzw. die Siloxaneinheiten o in den Formeln (V) können über die Gruppe A Nest- bzw. Teilkäfigstrukturen ausbilden, wenn A für die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) steht. Erfindungsgemäße Vorbehandlungsmittel, die Silikone mit entsprechenden 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituierten Silsesquioxan-Teilstrukturen beinhalten, sind erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, da diese Silikone zu enorm verbessertem Haarschutz bei der oxidati- ven Färbebehandlung führen. The structural unit (III) or the siloxane units o in the formulas (V) can form via the group A nest or partial cage structures, if A stands for a half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III). Inventive pretreatment agents containing silicones with corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silsesquioxane partial structures are preferred according to the invention, since these silicones result in enormously improved hair protection in the oxidative dyeing treatment.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens ein 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituiertes Silikon enthalten, das Struktureinheiten der Formel (VI) aufweist Further oxidation dyes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone which has structural units of the formula (VI)
in der in the
R1 , R2, R3 und R4 unabhängig voneinander für -H, -CH3, eine Gruppe D, eine Struktureinheit (I), (II) oder (III) oder einen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III) stehen oder R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4, independently of one another, denote -H, -CH 3 , a group D, a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical comprising structural units of the formulas (I), (II ) or (III) or
zwei der Reste R1 , R2, R3 und R4 für eine Struktureinheit -Si(R6)(R5)- mit two of the radicals R1, R2, R3 and R4 for a structural unit -Si (R6) (R5) - with
R5 = -CH3 oder eine Struktureinheit der Formel (I) oder (II) oder (III) oder einen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III) R 5 = -CH 3 or a structural unit of the formula (I) or (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III)
R6 = -OH, -CH3, oder eine Struktureinheit der Formel (I) oder (II) oder (III) oder einen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III).
In bevorzugten Silikonen der Formel (VI) steht mindestens einer der Reste R1 , R2, R3 oder R4 für einen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest, enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III). In weiter bevorzugten Silikonen der Formel (VI) steht mindestens einer der Reste R1 , R2, R3 oder R4 für einen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest, enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I) und (II). In noch weiter bevorzugten Silikonen der Formel (VI) steht mindestens einer der Reste R1 , R2, R3 oder R4 für einen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest, enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I) und (II) und (III). R 6 = -OH, -CH 3 , or a structural unit of the formula (I) or (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III). In preferred silicones of the formula (VI), at least one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 is an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III). In further preferred silicones of the formula (VI), at least one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 is an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I) and (II). In still further preferred silicones of the formula (VI), at least one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 is an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I) and (II) and (III).
Bevorzugt steht mindestens einer der Reste R1 , R2, R3 oder R4 für eine -[-Si(CH3)2-0]m- Gruppierung, d.h. ein Oligo- bzw. Polymeres der Struktureinheit (I). Bevorzugt ist darüber hinaus die Struktureinheit (II) bzw. ein Oligo- oder Polymeres davon nie allein, sondern immer in statistischer Verteilung mit weiteren Struktureinheiten der Formel (I) als einer der Reste R1 , R2, R3 oder R4 im Molekül gebunden. At least one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 is preferably a - [- Si (CH 3 ) 2 -O] m - grouping, ie an oligo- or polymer of the structural unit (I). In addition, the structural unit (II) or an oligo- or polymer thereof is preferably never alone, but always bound in a random distribution with further structural units of the formula (I) as one of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 or R 4 in the molecule.
Bevorzugte Silikone der Formel (VI) lassen sich durch die Formel (VI a) beschreiben Preferred silicones of the formula (VI) can be described by the formula (VI a)
in der in the
R1 , R2 und R4 unabhängig voneinander für -H, -CH3, eine Gruppe D, eine Struktureinheit (I), (II) oder (III) oder einen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III) stehen oder R 1 , R 2 and R 4, independently of one another, denote -H, -CH 3 , a group D, a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical comprising structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) stand or
zwei der Reste R1 , R2 und R4 für eine Struktureinheit -Si(R6)(R5)- mit two of the radicals R1, R2 and R4 for a structural unit -Si (R6) (R5) - with
R5 = -CH3 oder eine Struktureinheit der Formel (I) oder (II) oder (III) oder einen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III) R 5 = -CH 3 or a structural unit of the formula (I) or (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III)
R6 = -OH, -CH3, oder eine Struktureinheit der Formel (I) oder (II) oder (III) oder einen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III), R 6 = -OH, -CH 3 , or a structural unit of the formula (I) or (II) or (III) or an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III)
A für eine über ein -O- gebundene Struktureinheit (I), (II) oder (III) oder einen über ein -O- gebundenen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III) oder die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) oder für -OH steht,
D für eine Gruppe -H; -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3 steht, a, b und c für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 990 stehen, mit der Maßgabe a + b + c > 0, n und o für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 990 stehen. A is a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) attached via an -O- or an oligomeric or polymeric radical bonded via an -O- containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or Half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or is -OH, D for a group -H; -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 , a, b and c are integers from 0 to 990, with the proviso a + b + c > 0, n and o stand for integers from 1 to 990.
Weiter bevorzugte Silikone der Formel (VI) lassen sich durch die Formel (VI b) beschreiben Further preferred silicones of the formula (VI) can be described by the formula (VI b)
in der die Reste und Indices wie vorstehend definiert sind. in which the radicals and indices are as defined above.
Besonders bevorzugte Silikone der Formel (VI) lassen sich durch die Formel (VI c) beschreiben Particularly preferred silicones of the formula (VI) can be described by the formula (VI c)
in der die Reste und Indices wie vorstehend definiert sind und die Indices d und e für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 990 stehen. in which the radicals and indices are as defined above and the indices d and e stand for integers from 0 to 990.
In den Formeln (VI a), (VI b) und (VI c)n steht bevorzugt mindestens eine der Gruppierungen D für -Si(CH3)2OH. In the formulas (VI a), (VI b) and (VI c) n, at least one of the groupings D is preferably -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH.
Die Silsesquioxan-Strukturen können in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten 4-Morpholinomethyl- substituierten Silikonen noch weiter ausgeprägt sein, was die vorteilhaften Effekte verstärkt. Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens ein 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituiertes Silikon enthalten, das Struktureinheiten der Formel (VII) aufweist,
The silsesquioxane structures can be even more pronounced in the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones used according to the invention, which enhances the advantageous effects. Particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone which has structural units of the formula (VII),
für eine über ein -O- gebundene Struktureinheit (I), (II) oder (III) oder einen über ein -O- gebundenen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III) oder die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) oder für -OH steht, for a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) attached via an -O- or an oligomeric or polymeric radical bonded via an -O- containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or half a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or is -OH,
für eine Gruppe -H; -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3 steht, für einen Rest 4-Morpholinomethyl- steht, for a group -H; -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 , a radical is 4-morpholinomethyl,
für -H oder die Gruppierung for -H or the grouping
steht, stands,
wobei die Siloxaneinheiten m, n und o bzw. a, b, c, x und y statistisch verteilt vorliegen. wherein the siloxane units m, n and o or a, b, c, x and y are present randomly distributed.
Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel enthalten mindestens ein Silikon der folgenden Formel (VII a),
Particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention comprise at least one silicone of the following formula (VII a)
(VII a) mit den Definitionen wie für Formel (VII). (VII a) with the definitions as for formula (VII).
Ganz besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel enthalten mindestens ein Silikon der folgenden Formel (VII b) Very particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention contain at least one silicone of the following formula (VIIb)
(VII b) mit den Definitionen wie für Formel (VII). (VII b) with the definitions as for formula (VII).
In den Formeln (VII), (VII a) und (VII b) können die verbrückenden Sauerstoffatome zwischen den Morpholinomethyl-substituierten Silicium-Atomen auch durch eine -[-Si(CH3)2-0]m-Gruppierung,
d.h. ein Oligo- bzw. Polymeres der Struktureinheit (I), erweitert sein. Entsprechende erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel sind solche, die mindestens ein 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituiertes Silikon enthalten das Struktureinheiten der Formel (VIII) aufweist In the formulas (VII), (VII a) and (VII b), the bridging oxygen atoms between the morpholinomethyl-substituted silicon atoms can also be represented by a - [- Si (CH 3 ) 2 -O] m grouping, ie an oligo- or polymer of the structural unit (I), be extended. Corresponding oxidation colorants according to the invention are those which comprise at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone which contains structural units of the formula (VIII)
in der in the
A für eine über ein -O- gebundene Struktureinheit (I), (II) oder (III) oder einen über ein -O- gebundenen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest, enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III) oder die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) oder für -OH steht, A represents a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) attached via an -O- or an oligomeric or polymeric radical bonded via an -O-, containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or is half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or for -OH,
D für eine Gruppe -H; -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3 steht, D for a group -H; -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
G1 bis G9 unabhängig voneinander für - O- oder eine Gruppe -[-Si(CH3)2-0]m- mit m = 1 bis G1 to G9 independently of one another represent --O- or a group - [- Si (CH 3 ) 2 -O] m - where m = 1 to
200 stehen, 200 stand,
R für einen Rest 4-Morpholinomethyl- steht, R is a residue 4-morpholinomethyl,
R6 für -H oder die Gruppierung R6 is -H or the grouping
steht, stands,
wobei die Siloxaneinheiten m, n und o bzw. a, b, c, x und y statistisch verteilt vorliegen.
Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel enthalten mindestens ein Silikon der folgenden Formel (VIII a) wherein the siloxane units m, n and o or a, b, c, x and y are present randomly distributed. Particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention contain at least one silicone of the following formula (VIII a)
(VIII a) mit den Definitionen wie für Formel (VIII). (VIII a) with the definitions as for formula (VIII).
Ganz besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel enthalten mindestens ein Silikon der folgenden Formel (VIII b) Very particularly preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention contain at least one silicone of the following formula (VIII b)
(VIII b) mit den Definitionen wie für Formel (VIII).
Unabhängig davon, welches spezielle 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituierte Silikon in den erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemitteln enthalten ist, sind erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel bevorzugt, die ein 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituiertes Silikon enthalten, in dem mehr als 50 Mol-% der Struktureinheiten Dimethylsiloxy-Einheiten sind, d.h. in denen die Struktureinheit (I) mindestens die Hälfte aller Struktureinheiten des eingesetzten Silikons ausmacht. (VIII b) with the definitions as for formula (VIII). Regardless of which particular 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone is included in the oxidation colorants of the present invention, preferred are oxidation dyes of the invention containing a 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone in which more than 50 mole% of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, ie in which the structural unit (I) makes up at least half of all the structural units of the silicone used.
In anderen Worten sind Silikone bevorzugt, bei denen m > (n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > (n + o) gilt. In other words, silicones are preferred in which m> (n + o) or (a + b + c)> (n + o).
Noch weiter bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel enthalten ein 4-Morpholino- methyl-substituiertes Silikon, in dem mehr als 87,5 Mol-% der Struktureinheiten Dimethylsiloxy- Einheiten sind, d.h. in denen die Struktureinheit (I) mehr als 875 Tausendstel aller Struktureinheiten des eingesetzten Silikons ausmacht. Still further preferred oxidation dyes of the present invention include a 4-morpholino methyl substituted silicone in which more than 87.5 mole percent of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, i. in which the structural unit (I) makes up more than 875 thousandths of all the structural units of the silicone used.
In anderen Worten sind Silikone bevorzugt, bei denen m > 8(n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > 8(n + o) gilt. Noch weiter bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel enthalten ein 4-Morpholino- methyl-substituiertes Silikon, in dem mehr als 96 Mol-% der Struktureinheiten Dimethylsiloxy-Einheiten sind, d.h. in denen die Struktureinheit (I) mindestens sechsundneunzig Hundertstel aller Struktureinheiten des eingesetzten Silikons ausmacht. In other words, silicones are preferred in which m> 8 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 8 (n + o). Still further preferred oxidation dyes of the present invention include a 4-morpholino methyl substituted silicone in which more than 96 mole percent of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, i. in which the structural unit (I) is at least ninety-six hundredths of all the structural units of the silicone used.
In anderen Worten sind Silikone bevorzugt, bei denen m > 25(n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > 25(n + o) gilt. Noch weiter bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel enthalten ein 4-Morpholino- methyl-substituiertes Silikon, in dem mehr als 98,7 Mol-% der Struktureinheiten Dimethylsiloxy- Einheiten sind, d.h. in denen die Struktureinheit (I) mindestens neunhundertsiebenundachtzig Tausendstel aller Struktureinheiten des eingesetzten Silikons ausmacht. In other words, silicones are preferred in which m> 25 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 25 (n + o). Still further preferred oxidation dyes of the present invention include a 4-morpholino methyl substituted silicone in which more than 98.7 mole percent of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, i. in which the structural unit (I) comprises at least nine hundred and seventy-seven thousandths of all the structural units of the silicone used.
In anderen Worten sind Silikone bevorzugt, bei denen m > 77(n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > 77(n + o) gilt. Noch weiter bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel enthalten ein 4-Morpholino- methyl-substituiertes Silikon, in dem mehr als 99,5 Mol-% der Struktureinheiten Dimethylsiloxy- Einheiten sind, d.h. in denen die Struktureinheit (I) mindestens neunhundertfünfundneunzig Tausendstel aller Struktureinheiten des eingesetzten Silikons ausmacht. In other words, silicones are preferred in which m> 77 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 77 (n + o). Still further preferred oxidation dyes of the present invention include a 4-morpholino methyl substituted silicone in which more than 99.5 mole percent of the structural units are dimethylsiloxy units, i. in which the structural unit (I) is at least nine hundred and ninety-five thousandths of all the structural units of the silicone used.
In anderen Worten sind Silikone bevorzugt, bei denen m > 200(n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > 200(n + o) gilt. In other words, silicones are preferred in which m> 200 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 200 (n + o).
Zusammenfassend sind bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens ein 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituiertes Silikon enthalten, bei dem m > (n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > (n + o), bevorzugt In summary, preferred oxidation dyes according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone in which m> (n + o) or (a + b + c)> (n + o), respectively
m > 8(n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > 8(n + o), besonders bevorzugt m> 8 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 8 (n + o), more preferably
m > 25(n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > 25(n + o), weiter bevorzugt m> 25 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 25 (n + o), more preferably
m > 77(n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > 77(n + o) und insbesondere m> 77 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 77 (n + o) and in particular
- m > 200(n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > 200(n + o) gilt. - m> 200 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 200 (n + o).
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass Hydroxy-terminierte(s) 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituierte(s) Silikon(e) enthalten ist/sind, in dem/in denen das Molverhältnis Hydroxy/Alkoxy im Bereich von 0,2: 1 bis 0,4: 1 , bevorzugt im Bereich von 1 :0,8 bis 1 :1 ,1 liegt. Further preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that hydroxy-terminated (s) 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone (s) is / are present in which the molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy in the range of 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1, preferably in the range of 1: 0.8 to 1: 1, 1.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass
die gewichtsmittlere Molmasse des in Schritt a eingesetzten 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituierten Silikons der Formel (V) im Bereich von 2.000 bis 1.000.000 gmol 1 , bevorzugt im Bereich von 5.000 bis 200.000 gmol"1 liegt. Further inventively preferred oxidation colorants are characterized in that the weight-average molar mass of the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) used in step a is in the range from 2,000 to 1,000,000 gmol 1 , preferably in the range from 5,000 to 200,000 gmol -1 .
Die mittleren Molmassen von aminosubstituierten Silikonen sind beispielsweise durch Gelpermea- tionschromatographie (GPC) bei Raumtemperatur in Polystyrol messbar. Als Säulen können Styragel Spalten μ, als Eluent THF und als Flussrate 1 ml / min gewählt werden. Die Detektion erfolgt bevorzugt mittels Refraktometrie und UV-Meter. The average molar masses of amino-substituted silicones can be measured, for example, by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature in polystyrene. As columns Styragel columns μ, as eluent THF and as flow rate 1 ml / min can be selected. The detection is preferably carried out by means of refractometry and UV meter.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituierte Silikone der Formel (V) sind in dem Rohstoff Belsil ADM 8301 E (ex Wacker Silicones) unter der Bezeichung Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane enthalten. Belsil ADM 8301 E stellt eine Mikroemulsion dar und besteht aus folgenden Bestandteilen: Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane (10 Gew.-%); Trideceth-5 (5 Gew.-%); Glycerin (2,5 Gew.-%), Phenoxyethanol (0,45 Gew.-%) und Wasser (82,05 Gew.-%). According to the invention, particularly preferred 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones of the formula (V) are contained in the raw material Belsil ADM 8301 E (ex Wacker Silicones) under the name amodimethicone / morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane. Belsil ADM 8301 E is a microemulsion and consists of the following constituents: amodimethicone / morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane (10% by weight); Trideceth-5 (5 wt%); Glycerin (2.5% by weight), phenoxyethanol (0.45% by weight) and water (82.05% by weight).
Es hat sich gezeigt, dass die erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemittel weiter verbessert werden können, wenn bestimmte nichtionische Komponenten ebenfalls in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Vorbehandlungsmitteln enthalten sind. Zudem haben diese nichtionischen Komponenten positive Effekte auf die Lagerstabilität der erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemittel. Nichtionische Komponenten, die hier besonders geeignet sind, sind Ethoxylate von Decanol, Undecanol, Dodecanol, Tridecanol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol und/oder Stearylalkohol. Als besonders geeignet haben sich ethoxylierte Tridecanole erwiesen, die mit besonderem Vorzug in die erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemittel inkorporiert werden. Besonders bevorzugt sind verzweigte ethoxylierte Tridecanole, insbesondere verzweigte Tridecanole mit 3 bis 5 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten im Molekül. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel enthalten - jeweils bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,001 - 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,005 - 3,5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,01 - 2 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,05 - 1 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0, 1 - 0,5 Gew.-% verzweigtes, ethoxyliertes Tridecanol, besonders bevorzugt 0,001 - 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,005 - 3,5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,01 - 2 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,05 - 1 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0, 1 - 0,5 Gew.-% verzweigtes, ethoxyliertes Tridecanol mit 3 bis 5 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten im Molekül. It has been found that the oxidation colorants according to the invention can be further improved if certain nonionic components are likewise present in the pretreatment agents used according to the invention. In addition, these nonionic components have positive effects on the storage stability of the oxidation colorants according to the invention. Nonionic components which are particularly useful herein are ethoxylates of decanol, undecanol, dodecanol, tridecanol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and / or stearyl alcohol. Particularly suitable ethoxylated tridecanols have proven to be incorporated with particular preference in the oxidation according to the invention. Particularly preferred are branched ethoxylated tridecanols, in particular branched tridecanols having 3 to 5 ethylene oxide units in the molecule. According to the invention particularly preferred oxidation colorants contain - in each case based on their weight - 0.001 - 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 - 3.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 - 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 - 1 Wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 - 0.5 wt .-% branched, ethoxylated tridecanol, particularly preferably 0.001 - 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 - 3.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 - Wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 0.5 wt .-% branched, ethoxylated tridecanol with 3 to 5 ethylene oxide units in the molecule.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemittel können weitere Inhaltsstoffe enthalten. Bevorzugt ist hierbei der Einsatz von mehrwertigen Alkoholen, die Feuchtigkeit spendende Eigenschaften aufweisen. Hier sind erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel bevorzugt, die mindestens einen mehrwertigen Alkohol, bevorzugt ausgewählt aus der Gruppe Sorbit und/oder Glycerin und/oder 1 ,2-Propylenglycol oder deren Mischungen, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 - 15 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0, 1 - 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0, 15 - 5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,15 - 1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht des Oxidationsfärbemittels, enthalten. Für bestimmte Anwendungsbereiche kann es vorteilhaft sein, nur einen der drei oben genannten bevorzugten mehrwertigen Alkohole einzusetzen. In den meisten Fällen ist dabei Glycerin bevorzugt. Allerdings können auf anderen Anwendungsgebieten Mischungen von zwei der drei mehrwertigen Alkohole oder aller
drei mehrwertigen Alkohole bevorzugt sein. Besonders vorteilhaft hat sich hier eine Mischung aus Glycerin, Sorbit und 1 ,2-Propylenglycol in einem Gewichtsverhältnis von 1 : (0,5-1 ) : (0,1-0,5) erwiesen. The oxidation colorants of the invention may contain other ingredients. Preference is given here to the use of polyhydric alcohols which have moisturizing properties. Here, preference is given to oxidation-colorants according to the invention which contain at least one polyhydric alcohol, preferably selected from the group of sorbitol and / or glycerol and / or 1,2-propylene glycol or mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 0.05-15% by weight, preferably 0 , 1 - 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0, 15 - 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.15 - 1 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the oxidation colorant included. For certain applications, it may be advantageous to use only one of the three preferred polyhydric alcohols mentioned above. In most cases, glycerin is preferred. However, in other applications, mixtures of two of the three polyhydric alcohols or all three polyhydric alcohols may be preferred. Here, a mixture of glycerol, sorbitol and 1,2-propylene glycol in a weight ratio of 1: (0.5-1): (0.1-0.5) has proved particularly advantageous.
Neben Sorbit, Glycerin und 1 ,2-Propylenglycol eignen sich als weitere mehrwertige Alkohole solche mit mindestens 2 OH-Gruppen, bevorzugt Mannit, Xylitol, Polyethylenglycol, Polypropylen- glycol und deren Mischungen. Unter diesen Verbindungen sind diejenigen mit 2 bis 12 OH-Gruppen und insbesondere diejenigen mit 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 oder 10 OH-Gruppen bevorzugt. In addition to sorbitol, glycerol and 1,2-propylene glycol, further polyhydric alcohols are those having at least 2 OH groups, preferably mannitol, xylitol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol and mixtures thereof. Among these compounds, those having 2 to 12 OH groups, and especially those having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred.
Polyhydroxyverbindungen mit 2 OH-Gruppen sind beispielsweise Glycol (CH2(OH)CH2OH) und andere 1 ,2-Diole wie H-(CH2)n-CH(OH)CH2OH mit n = 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 1 1 , 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Auch 1 ,3-Diole wie H-(CH2)n-CH(OH) CH2CH2OH mit n = 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 1 1 , 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 sind erfindungsgemäß einsetzbar. Die (n,n+1 )- bzw. (n,n+2)-Diole mit nicht endständigen OH-Gruppen können ebenfalls eingesetzt werden. Wichtige Vertreter von Polyhydroxyverbindungen mit 2 OH-Gruppen sind auch die Polyethylen- und Poly- propylenglycole. Als bevorzugte weitere mehrwertige Alkohole können z. B. Xylit, Propylenglycole, Polyethylenglycole, insbesondere solche mit mittleren Molekulargewichten von 200-800, eingesetzt werden. Besonders bevorzugt ist der Einsatz von Glycerin, so dass Mittel, die außer Glycerin keine anderen mehrwertigen Alkohole enthalten, besonders bevorzugt sind. Polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are, for example, glycol (CH 2 (OH) CH 2 OH) and other 1, 2-diols such as H- (CH 2 ) n -CH (OH) CH 2 OH where n = 2, 3, 4 , 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Also 1,3-diols such as H- (CH 2 ) n -CH (OH) CH 2 CH 2 OH with n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 1 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 can be used according to the invention. The (n, n + 1) or (n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used. Important representatives of polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols. As preferred further polyhydric alcohols may, for. As xylitol, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, especially those having average molecular weights of 200-800, are used. Particularly preferred is the use of glycerol, so that agents which contain no other polyhydric alcohols other than glycerol are particularly preferred.
Im Hinblick auf eine weitere Reduzierung der Haarschädigung durch die oxidative Färbebehandlung ist der Einsatz bestimmter Pflegestoffe in den erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemitteln bevorzugt. With regard to a further reduction of hair damage by the oxidative dyeing treatment, the use of certain care substances in the oxidation colorants according to the invention is preferred.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zusätzlich Pflegestoff(e) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,001 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,005 - 7,5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,01 - 5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,05 - 2,5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Oxidationsfärbemittels, enthalten. Bevorzugte Pflegestoff(e) sind ausgewählt aus mindestens einer der nachfolgend genannten Gruppen: Oxidation colorants which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally comprise care substance (s) in a total amount of 0.001-10 wt.%, Preferably 0.005-7.5 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.01-5 wt.%, And in particular 0.05 - 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the oxidation colorant included. Preferred care substances are selected from at least one of the following groups:
i- L-Carnitin und/oder seiner Salze; i-L-carnitine and / or its salts;
ii. Taurin und/oder seiner Salze; ii. Taurine and / or its salts;
iii. Niacinamid; iii. niacinamide;
iv. Ubichinon; iv. ubiquinone;
V. Ectoin; V. Ectoin;
vi. Vitamine; vi. vitamins;
vii. Flavonoide. vii. Flavonoids.
Als weiteren Inhaltsstoff können erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel eine oder mehrere Aminosäuren enthalten. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt einsetzbare Aminosäuren stammen aus der Gruppe Glycin, Alanin, Valin, Leucin, Isoleucin, Phenylalanin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan, Prolin, Asparaginsäure, Glutaminsäure, Asparagin, Glutamin, Serin, Threonin, Cystein, Methionin, Lysin, Arginin, Histidin, ß-Alanin, 4-Aminobuttersäure (GABA), Betain, L-Cystin, L-Carnitin, L-Citrullin, L-Theanin, 3 ',4 '-Dihydroxy-L-phenylalanin (L-Dopa), 5 '-Hydroxy-L- tryptophan, L-Homocystein, S-Methyl-L-methionin, S-Allyl-L-cystein-sulfoxid (L-Alliin), L-trans-4-
Hydroxyprolin, L-5-Oxoprolin (L-Pyroglutaminsäure), L-Phosphoserin, Kreatin, 3-Methyl-L-histidin, L-Ornithin, wobei sowohl die einzelnen Aminosäuren als auch Mischungen eingesetzt werden können. As a further ingredient, preferred oxidation dyes according to the invention may contain one or more amino acids. Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine, L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5' -hydroxy- L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4- Hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.
Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel enthalten eine oder mehrere Aminosäuren in engeren Mengenbereichen. Hier sind erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie als Pflegestoff 0,01 - 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,02 - 2,5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 1 ,5 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,075 - 1 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0, 1 - 0,25 Gew.-% Aminosäure(n), bevorzugt aus der Gruppe Glycin und/oder Alanin und/oder Valin und/oder Lysin und/oder Leucin und/oder Threonin enthalten, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Oxidationsfärbem itte Is . Preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, as a care substance, 0.01-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.02-2.5 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.05-1.5 wt preferably 0.075-1% by weight and in particular 0.1-1.25% by weight of amino acid (s), preferably from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or Threonine, in each case based on the total weight of the Oxidationsfärbem itte Is.
Das erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel kann als Wasser-basierte Emulsion, als Spray, als Creme, Gel, Lotion, Paste oder Shampoo konfektioniert sein. The oxidation dye according to the invention can be formulated as a water-based emulsion, as a spray, as a cream, gel, lotion, paste or shampoo.
Die als Teil des erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemittels eingesetzte Zusammensetzung (B) enthält als ersten zwingenden Inhaltsstoff mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel. Bevorzugte Oxida- tionsmittel sind ausgewählt aus Peroxoverbindungen, bevorzugt ausgewählt aus Wasserstoffperoxid, festen Anlagerungsverbindung von Wasserstoffperoxid an anorganische oder organische Verbindungen, wie Natriumperborat, Natriumpercarbonat, Magnesiumpercarbonat, Natriumper- carbamid, Polyvinylpyrrolidon n H202 (n ist eine positive ganze Zahl größer 0), Harnstoffperoxid und Melaminperoxid, weiterhin ausgewählt aus Diammoniumperoxodisulfat (auch als Ammoniumpersulfat bezeichnet), Dinatriumperoxodisulfat (auch als Natriumpersulfat bezeichnet) und Dika- liumperoxodisulfat (auch als Kaliumpersulfat bezeichnet) sowie aus Mischungen dieser Oxidationsmittel. Erfindungsgemäß ganz besonders bevorzugt verwendete Oxidationsmittel sind wässrige Wasserstoffperoxid-Lösungen. Die Konzentration einer Wasserstoffperoxid-Lösung wird einerseits von den gesetzlichen Vorgaben und andererseits von dem gewünschten Effekt bestimmt; bevorzugt werden 6- bis 12-Gewichtsprozentige Lösungen in Wasser verwendet. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die zu ihrer Herstellung eingesetzte Zusammensetzung (B) - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 1 - 24 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 4 - 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 3 - 6 Gew.-% Wasserstoffperoxid (berechnet als 100%iges H202) enthält. The composition (B) used as part of the oxidation colorant according to the invention contains as the first compulsory ingredient at least one oxidizing agent. Preferred oxidizing agents are selected from peroxo compounds, preferably selected from hydrogen peroxide, solid addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, Natriumper- carbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone n H 2 0 2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0 ), Urea peroxide and melamine peroxide, furthermore selected from diammonium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as ammonium persulfate), disodium peroxodisulfate (also referred to as sodium persulfate) and dialkyl peroxodisulfate (also referred to as potassium persulfate) and from mixtures of these oxidizing agents. Oxidants which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions. The concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; Preferably, 6-12% by weight solutions in water are used. Oxidation dyes which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (B) used for their preparation, based on their weight, is 1 to 24% by weight, preferably 4 to 10% by weight, more preferably 3 to 6% by weight, of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H 2 0 2 ).
Für oxidative Haarfärbeverfahren wird üblicherweise kurz vor der Applikation auf das Haar die Färbezusammensetzung (A), die ein oder mehrere Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukte und ggf. ein oder mehrere direktziehende Farbstoffe enthält, mit einer wässrigen Oxidationsmittel-haltigen Zusammensetzung (B) zu dem anwendungsbereiten (erfindungsgemäßen) Oxidationsfärbemittel vermischt und dann auf das Haar appliziert. Meistens sind die Färbezusammensetzung (A) und die Oxidationsmittel-haltige Zusammensetzung (B) so aufeinander abgestimmt, dass bei einem Mischungsverhältnis von 1 zu 1 , bezogen auf Gewichtsteile, im Haarfärbemittel eine Anfangskonzentration an Wasserstoffperoxid von 0,5 - 12 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 2 - 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 3 - 6 Gew.-% Wasserstoffperoxid (berechnet als 100%iges H202) bezogen auf das Gewicht des Oxidationsfärbemittel vorliegt. Es ist aber genauso gut möglich, die Färbezusam-
mensetzung (A) und die Oxidationsmittel-haltige Zusammensetzung (B) so aufeinander abzustimmen, dass sich die im anwendungsbereiten Oxidationsfärbemittel notwendigen Konzentrationen durch andere Mischungsverhältnisse als 1 : 1 ergeben, beispielsweise durch ein Gewichts-bezo- genes Mischungsverhältnis von 1 :2 oder 1 :3 oder auch 2:3. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie eine Anfangsmenge an Wasserstoffperoxid von 0,5 - 12 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 2 - 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 3 - 6 Gew.-% Wasserstoffperoxid (berechnet als 100%iges H202), jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht des Oxidations- färbemittels, enthalten. For oxidative hair dyeing processes, the dyeing composition (A) which contains one or more oxidation dye precursors and optionally one or more substantive dyes is usually mixed with an aqueous oxidizing agent-containing composition (B) to form the ready-to-apply (inventive) oxidation dye shortly before application to the hair mixed and then applied to the hair. In most cases, the dyeing composition (A) and the oxidizing agent-containing composition (B) are coordinated so that at a mixing ratio of 1 to 1, based on parts by weight, in the hair dye, an initial concentration of hydrogen peroxide of 0.5 to 12 wt .-%, preferably 2 - 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 3-6 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H 2 0 2 ) based on the weight of the oxidation colorant is present. But it is equally possible to prepare the dyeing composition (A) and the oxidizing agent-containing composition (B) to one another such that the concentrations required in the oxidation-dye ready for use are given by mixing ratios other than 1: 1, for example by a weight-related mixing ratio of 1: 2 or 1: 3 or even 2: 3. Oxidation colorants preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an initial amount of hydrogen peroxide of 0.5-12% by weight, preferably 2-10% by weight, particularly preferably 3-6% by weight of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H 2 0 2 ), in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens ein kosmetisches Öl in einer Gesamtmenge von 5 - 50 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 8 - 40 Gew.-% besonders bevorzugt 12 - 30 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 15 - 25 Gew.-%, enthalten, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht des Oxidationsfärbemittels. Further oxidation dyes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 5 to 50% by weight, preferably 8 to 40% by weight, more preferably 12 to 30% by weight, most preferably 15 to 25% by weight .-%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidation colorant.
Oxidative Färbeprozesse auf Keratinfasern laufen üblicherweise im alkalischen Milieu ab. Um die Keratinfasern und auch die Haut so weit wie möglich zu schonen, ist die Einstellung eines zu hohen pH-Wertes jedoch nicht wünschenswert. Daher ist es bevorzugt, wenn der pH-Wert des erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Oxidationsfärbemittels im Bereich von 7 und 1 1 , insbesondere im Bereich von 8 und 10,5, liegt. Bei den pH-Werten im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung handelt es sich um pH-Werte, die bei einer Temperatur von 22 °C gemessen wurden. Oxidative dyeing processes on keratin fibers usually take place in an alkaline medium. However, in order to preserve the keratin fibers as well as the skin as much as possible, the setting of too high a pH value is not desirable. Therefore, it is preferred if the pH of the preferred oxidation colorant according to the invention is in the range of 7 and 11, in particular in the range of 8 and 10.5. For the purposes of the present invention, the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
Die zur Einstellung des bevorzugten pH-Wertes erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Alkalisierungsmittel können aus der Gruppe Ammoniak, basischen Aminosäuren, Alkalihydroxiden, Alkanol- aminen, Alkalimetallmetasilikaten, Alkaliphosphaten und Alkalihydrogenphosphaten, ausgewählt werden. Als Alkalimetallionen dienen bevorzugt Lithium, Natrium, Kalium, insbesondere Natrium oder Kalium. The alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention for adjusting the preferred pH can be selected from the group of ammonia, basic amino acids, alkali metal hydroxides, alkanolamines, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal phosphates and alkali metal hydrogenphosphates. The alkali metal ions used are preferably lithium, sodium, potassium, in particular sodium or potassium.
Die als Alkalisierungsmittel einsetzbaren basischen Aminosäuren werden bevorzugt ausgewählt aus der Gruppe L-Arginin, D-Arginin, D, L-Arginin, L-Lysin, D-Lysin, D, L-Lysin, besonders bevorzugt L-Arginin, D-Arginin, D, L-Arginin als ein Alkalisierungsmittel im Sinne der Erfindung eingesetzt. Die als Alkalisierungsmittel einsetzbaren Alkalihydroxide werden bevorzugt ausgewählt aus der Gruppe Natriumhydroxid und Kaliumhydroxid. The basic amino acids which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D, L-lysine, particularly preferably L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine used as an alkalizing agent according to the invention. The alkali metal hydroxides which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
Die als Alkalisierungsmittel einsetzbaren Alkanolamine werden bevorzugt ausgewählt aus primären Aminen mit einem C2-C6-Alkylgrundkörper, der mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe trägt. Besonders bevorzugte Alkanolamine werden aus der Gruppe ausgewählt, die gebildet wird, aus 2-Amino- ethan-1-ol (Monoethanolamin), 3-Aminopropan-1-ol, 4-Aminobutan-1-ol, 5-Aminopentan-1-ol, 1- Aminopropan-2-ol, 1-Aminobutan-2-ol, 1 -Aminopentan-2-ol, 1-Aminopentan-3-ol, 1 -Aminopentan- 4-ol, 3-Amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-Amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-Aminopropan-1 ,2-diol, 2- Amino-2-methylpropan-1 ,3-diol. Erfindungsgemäß ganz besonders bevorzugte Alkanolamine sind ausgewählt aus der Gruppe 2-Aminoethan-1 -ol, 2-Amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol und 2-Amino-2- methyl-propan-1 ,3-diol. The alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from primary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-amino-ethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol , 1-Aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropane-1 -ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol. Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
Für eine Färbung, die eine starke Aufhellung sehr dunklen Haares erfordert, ist der Einsatz von Wasserstoffperoxid oder dessen Anlagerungsprodukten an organische bzw. anorganische Ver-
bindungen oftmals nicht ausreichend. In diesen Fällen wird in der Regel eine Kombination aus Wasserstoffperoxid und Peroxodisulfatsalzen (Persulfatsalzen) eingesetzt. Bevorzugte Persulfat- salze sind Ammoniumperoxidisulfat, Kaliumperoxidisulfat, Natriumperoxidisulfat, sowie Mischungen hiervon. For a dyeing which requires a strong lightening of very dark hair, the use of hydrogen peroxide or its addition products to organic or inorganic often insufficient. In these cases, a combination of hydrogen peroxide and Peroxodisulfatsalzen (persulfate salts) is usually used. Preferred persulfate salts are ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, and mixtures thereof.
Das mindestens eine Persulfatsalz ist bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0, 1 bis 25 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 1 bis 15 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht des erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemittels, enthalten. The at least one persulfate salt is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 1 to 15 wt .-%, based on the weight of the oxidation of the invention.
Als weitere zwingende Komponente enthält die zur Herstellung des erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemittels verwendete Zusammensetzung (B) mindestens ein kosmetisches Öl in einer Gesamtmenge von 10 - 80 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung (B). Das kosmetische Öl ist unter Normalbedingungen (20 °C, 1013,25 mbar) flüssig; ätherische Öle und Parfümöle bzw. Riechstoffe werden nicht zu den kosmetischen Ölen gezählt. Die unter Normalbedingungen flüssigen kosmetischen Öle sind mit Wasser nicht mischbar. Unter ätherischen Ölen werden erfindungsgemäß Gemische aus flüchtigen Komponenten verstanden, die durch Wasserdampfdestillation aus pflanzlichen Rohstoffen hergestellt werden, wie z. B. Citrusöle. Sofern in der vorliegenden Anmeldung von einem kosmetischen Öl die Rede ist, handelt es sich hierbei immer um ein kosmetisches Öl, das kein Riechstoff und kein ätherisches Öl ist, unter Normalbedingungen flüssig und mit Wasser nicht mischbar ist. As a further compulsory component, the composition (B) used to prepare the oxidation dye of the present invention contains at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 10 to 80% by weight based on the weight of the composition (B). The cosmetic oil is liquid under normal conditions (20 ° C, 1013.25 mbar); essential oils and perfume oils or fragrances are not counted among the cosmetic oils. Under normal conditions liquid cosmetic oils are immiscible with water. Essential oils according to the invention are understood to mean mixtures of volatile components which are prepared by steam distillation from vegetable raw materials, such as. B. citrus oils. As far as in the present application of a cosmetic oil is mentioned, this is always a cosmetic oil that is not a fragrance and no essential oil, is liquid under normal conditions and immiscible with water.
Die Definition eines Riechstoffs im Sinne der vorliegenden Anmeldung stimmt überein mit der fachmännisch üblichen Definition, wie sie dem RÖMPP Chemie Lexikon, Stand Dezember 2007, entnommen werden kann. Danach ist ein Riechstoff eine chemische Verbindung mit Geruch und/ oder Geschmack, der die Rezeptoren der Haarzellen des olfaktorischen Systems erregt (adäquater Reiz). Die hierzu notwendigen physikalischen und chemischen Eigenschaften sind eine niedrige Molmasse von maximal 300 g/mol, ein hoher Dampfdruck, minimale Wasser- und hohe Lipidlös- lichkeit sowie schwache Polarität und das Vorliegen mindestens einer osmophoren Gruppe im Molekül. Um flüchtige, niedermolekulare Substanzen, die üblicherweise und auch im Sinne der vorliegenden Anmeldung nicht als Riechstoff, sondern vornehmlich als Lösemittel angesehen und verwendet werden, wie beispielsweise Ethanol, Propanol, Isopropanol und Aceton, von erfindungsgemäßen Riechstoffen abzugrenzen, weisen erfindungsgemäße Riechstoffe eine Molmasse von 74 bis 300 g/mol auf, enthalten mindestens eine osmophore Gruppe im Molekül und weisen einen Geruch und/oder Geschmack auf, das heißt, sie erregen die Rezeptoren der Haarzellen des olfaktorischen Systems. The definition of a fragrance in the sense of the present application is in accordance with the expert definition as it can be found in the RÖMPP Chemie Lexikon, as of December 2007. Thereafter, a fragrance is a chemical compound with odor and / or taste that excites the hair cell receptors of the olfactory system (adequate stimulus). The physical and chemical properties required for this purpose are a low molecular weight of at most 300 g / mol, a high vapor pressure, minimal water and high lipid solubility, as well as weak polarity and the presence of at least one osmophoric group in the molecule. In order to delineate volatile, low molecular weight substances which are usually and also not regarded as perfuming agents, but primarily as solvents, such as, for example, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and acetone, odorants according to the invention, fragrances according to the invention have a molecular weight of 74 to 300 g / mol, contain at least one osmophoric group in the molecule and have a smell and / or taste, that is, they excite the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Öle sind ausgewählt aus natürlichen und synthetischen Kohlenwasserstoffen, besonders bevorzugt aus Paraffinölen, C18-C3o-Isoparaffinen, insbesondere Isoeicosan, Polyisobutene und Polydecene, die beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Emery® 3004, 3006, 3010 oder unter der Bezeichnung Ethylflo® von Albemarle oder Nexbase® 2004G von Nestle erhältlich sind, weiterhin ausgewählt aus C8-C16-lsoparaffinen, insbesondere aus Isodecan, Isododecan, Isotetradecan und Isohexadecan sowie Mischungen hiervon, sowie 1 ,3-Di-(2- ethylhexyl)-cyclohexan (erhältlich z. B. unter dem Handelsnamen Cetiol®S von BASF).
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Öle sind ausgewählt aus den Benzoesäureestern von linearen oder verzweigten C8-22-Alkanolen. Besonders bevorzugt sind Benzoesäure- C12-C15-alkylester, z. B. erhältlich als Handelsprodukt Finsolv® TN, Benzoesäureisostearylester, z. B. erhältlich als Handelsprodukt Finsolv® SB, Ethylhexylbenzoat, z. B. erhältlich als Handelsprodukt Finsolv® EB, und Benzoesäureoctyldocecylester, z. B. erhältlich als Handelsprodukt Finsolv® BOD. According to the invention preferred cosmetic oils are selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably of paraffin oils, C 18 -C 3 o-isoparaffins, especially isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, for example, under the designation Emery ® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name Ethylflo ® from Albemarle or Nexbase ® 2004G from Nestle are available, further selected from C 8 -C 16 -lsoparaffinen, in particular from isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane, and isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, as well as 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (obtainable, for. example, under the trade name Cetiol ® S from BASF). Further inventively preferred cosmetic oils are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C 8 -22-alkanols. Particularly preferred are benzoic C12-C15 alkyl esters, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® TN, benzoic acid isostearyl, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® SB, ethylhexyl benzoate, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® EB, and Benzoesäureoctyldocecylester, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ® BOD.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Öle sind ausgewählt aus Fettalkoholen mit 6 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, die ungesättigt oder verzweigt und gesättigt oder verzweigt und ungesättigt sind. Die verzweigten Alkohole werden häufig auch als Guerbet-Alkohole bezeichnet, da sie nach der Guerbet-Reaktion erhältlich sind. Bevorzugte Alkoholöle sind 2-Hexyldecanol (Eutanol® G 16), 2-Octyldodecanol (Eutanol® G), 2-Ethylhexylalkohol und Isostearylalkohol. Further inventively preferred cosmetic oils are selected from fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated. The branched alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, since they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction. Preferred oils are alcohol 2-hexyldecanol (Eutanol ® G 16) 2-octyldodecanol (Eutanol ® G), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol.
Weitere bevorzugte kosmetische Öle sind ausgewählt aus Mischungen aus Guerbetalkoholen und Guerbetalkoholestern, z.B. dem Handelsprodukt Cetiol® PGL (2-Hexyldecanol und 2-Hexyl- decyllaurat). More preferred cosmetic oils are chosen from mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, for example the commercial product Cetiol ® PGL (2-hexyl decanol and 2-hexyl decyl laurate).
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Öle sind ausgewählt aus den Triglyceriden (= Dreifachestern des Glycerins) von linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten, gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C8-3o-Fettsäuren. Besonders bevorzugt kann die Verwendung natürlicher Öle, z.B. Amaranthsamenöl, Aprikosenkernöl, Arganöl, Avocadoöl, Babassuöl, Baumwollsaatöl, Borretschsamenöl, Camelinaöl, Distelöl, Erdnussöl, Granatapfelkernöl, Grapefruitsamenöl, Hanföl, Haselnussöl, Holundersamenöl, Johannesbeersamenöl, Jojobaöl, Leinöl, Macadamianussöl, Maiskeimöl, Mandelöl, Marulaöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Olivenöl, Palmöl, Palmkernöl, Paranussöl, Pekannussöl, Pfirsichkernöl Rapsöl, Rizinusöl, Sanddornfruchtfleischöl, Sanddornkernöl, Sesamöl, Sojaöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Traubenkernöl, Walnussöl, Wildrosenöl, Weizenkeimöl, und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls und dergleichen sein. Bevorzugt sind aber auch synthetische Triglyceridöle, insbesondere Capric/ Caprylic Triglycerides, z. B. die Handelsprodukte Myritol® 318, Myritol® 331 (BASF) oder Miglyol® 812 (Hüls) mit unverzweigten Fettsäureresten sowie Glyceryltriisostearin mit verzweigten Fettsäureresten. Further inventively preferred cosmetic oils are selected from the triglycerides (= triple esters of glycerol) of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8 -3o-fatty acids. Particularly preferred may be the use of natural oils, eg, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil , Marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, Brazil nut oil, pecan oil, peach kernel rapeseed oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil, wild rose oil, wheat germ oil, and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like. But are also synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, z. As the commercial products Myritol ® 318, Myritol ® 331 (BASF) or Miglyol ® 812 (Hüls) with unbranched fatty acid residues and glyceryl triisostearin with branched fatty acid residues.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte kosmetische Öle sind ausgewählt aus den Dicar- bonsäureestern von linearen oder verzweigten C2-Ci0-Alkanolen, insbesondere Diisopropyladipat, Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)adipat, Dioctyladipat, Diethyl-/Di-n-butyl/ Dioctylsebacat, Di- isopropylsebacat, Dioctylmalat, Dioctylmaleat, Dicaprylylmaleat, Diisooctylsuccinat, Di-2-ethyl- hexylsuccinat und Di-(2-hexyldecyl)-succinat. Further according to the invention particularly preferred cosmetic oils are selected from the dicarboxylic bonsäureestern of linear or branched C 2 -C 0 alkanols, especially diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di- n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte kosmetische Öle sind ausgewählt aus den Estern der linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettalkohole mit 2 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen mit linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 2 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, die hydroxyliert sein können. Dazu zählen 2-Hexyldecylstearat (Eutanol® G 16 S), 2-Hexyldecyllaurat, Isodecylneopentanoat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft® C 24) und 2-Ethylhexylstearat (Cetiol® 868). Ebenfalls bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropylisostearat, Isopropyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isono-
nylstearat, Isocetylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, Isotridecylisononanoat, Cetearylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, 2-Ethylhexylcocoat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Butyloctan- säure-2-butyloctanoat, Diisotridecylacetat, n-Butylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat, Ethylenglycoldioleat und Ethylenglycoldipalmitat. Further cosmetic oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated. These include 2-hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ® G 16 S), 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ® 868). Also preferred are isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isono nylstearate, isocetylstearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid 2-butyloctanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, Oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Öle sind ausgewählt aus den Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 5 Propylenoxid-Einheiten an ein- oder mehrwertige C8-22-Alkanole, wie Octanol, Decanol, Decandiol, Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol und Stearylalkohol, z. B. PPG-2-Myristylether und PPG-3-Myristylether (Witconol® APM). Further inventively preferred cosmetic oils are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C 8 -22-alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ®).
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Öle sind ausgewählt aus den Anlagerungsprodukten von mindestens 6 Ethylenoxid- und/oder Propylenoxid-Einheiten an ein- oder mehrwertige C3_22-Alkanole wie Glycerin, Butanol, Butandiol, Myristylalkohol und Stearylalkohol, die gewünschtenfalls verestert sein können, z. B. PPG-14-Butylether (Ucon Fluid® AP), PPG-9-Butyl- ether (Breox® B25), PPG-10-Butandiol (Macol® 57), PPG-15-Stearylether (Arlamol® E) und Glyce- reth-7-diisononanoat. Further inventively preferred cosmetic oils are selected from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C 3 _22 alkanols such as glycerol, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, which may be esterified if desired, for. As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ® AP), PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ®), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ® 57), PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ® E) and Gly - reth-7-diisononanoate.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Öle sind ausgewählt aus den C8-C22-Fettalko- holestern einwertiger oder mehrwertiger C2-C7-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, insbesondere die Ester der Glycolsäure, Milchsäure, Äpfelsäure, Weinsäure, Citronensäure und Salicylsäure. Solche Ester auf Basis von linearen C14/15-Alkanolen, z. B. C-i2-C15-Alkyllactat, und von in 2-Position verzweigten Ci2/i 3-Alkanolen sind unter dem Warenzeichen Cosmacol® von der Firma Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, zu beziehen, insbesondere die Handelsprodukte Cosmacol® ESI, Cosmacol® EMI und Cosmacol® ETI. Other preferred cosmetic oils according to the invention are selected from the C 8 -C 2 2 fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C 2 -C 7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C 14/15 alkanols, eg. B. C-i2-C 15 -alkyllactate, and of branched in 2-position Ci2 / i 3-alkanols are under the trademark Cosmacol ® from the company Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, refer, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol ® ESI, Cosmacol® ® EMI and Cosmacol® ® EIT.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Öle sind ausgewählt aus den symmetrischen, unsymmetrischen oder cyclischen Estern der Kohlensäure mit C3.22-Alkanolen, C3.22-Alkandiolen oder C3-22-Alkantriolen, z. B. Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol® CC) oder die Ester gemäß der Lehre der DE 19756454 A1 , insbesondere Glycerincarbonat. Further preferred cosmetic oils according to the invention are selected from the symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C 3 . 2 2-alkanols, C 3 . 2 -alkanediols or C 3 -22-alkanetriols, e.g. B. dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC) or the esters according to the teaching of DE 19756454 A1, in particular glycerol carbonate.
Weitere kosmetische Öle, die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sein können, sind ausgewählt aus den Estern von Dimeren ungesättigter C12-C22-Fettsäuren (Dimerfettsäuren) mit einwertigen linearen, verzweigten oder cyclischen C2-Ci8-Alkanolen oder mit mehrwertigen linearen oder verzweigten C2-C6-Alkanolen. Other cosmetic oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C 12 -C 2 2 fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C 2 -C 8 -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C 2 -C 6 alkanols.
Weitere kosmetische Öle, die erfindungsgemäß geeignet sind, sind ausgewählt aus den Siliconölen, zu denen z. B. Dialkyl- und Alkylarylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Cyclopentasiloxan, Cyclo- hexasiloxan, Dimethylpolysiloxan und Methylphenylpolysiloxan, aber auch Hexamethyldisiloxan, Octamethyltrisiloxan und Decamethyltetrasiloxan zählen. Bevorzugt können flüchtige Siliconöle sein, die cyclisch sein können, wie z. B. Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan, Decamethylcyclopentasil- oxan und Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxan sowie Mischungen hiervon, wie sie z. B. in den Handelsprodukten DC 244, 245, 344 und 345 von Dow Corning enthalten sind. Ebenfalls geeignet sind flüchtige lineare Siliconöle, insbesondere Hexamethyldisiloxan (L2), Octamethyltrisiloxan (L3), Decamethyltetrasiloxan (L4) sowie beliebige Zweier- und Dreiermischungen aus L2, L3 und/ oder L4, bevorzugt solche Mischungen, wie sie z. B. in den Handelsprodukten DC 2-1 184, Dow Corning®
200 (0,65 cSt) und Dow Corning 200 (1 ,5 cSt) von Dow Corning enthalten sind. Bevorzugte nichtflüchtige Siliconöle sind ausgewählt aus höhermolekularen linearen Dimethylpolysiloxanen, im Handel erhältlich z. B. unter der Bezeichnung Dow Corning® 190, Dow Corning® 200 Fluid mit kinematischen Viskositäten (25°C) im Bereich von 5 - 100 cSt, bevorzugt 5 - 50 cSt oder auch 5 - 10 cSt, und Dimethylpolysiloxan mit einer kinematischen Viskosität (25°C) von etwa 350 cSt. Other cosmetic oils which are suitable according to the invention are selected from the silicone oils to which z. Dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane. Preferred may be volatile silicone oils, which may be cyclic, such as. For example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, as described, for example, in US Pat. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning. Likewise suitable are volatile linear silicone oils, in particular hexamethyldisiloxane (L 2 ), octamethyltrisiloxane (L 3 ), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L 4 ) as well as any mixtures of two and three of L 2 , L 3 and / or L 4 , preferably mixtures such as those described, for example , In the commercial products DC 2-1 184, Dow Corning® 200 (0.65 cSt) and Dow Corning 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning. Preferred nonvolatile silicone oils are selected from higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available e.g. Dow Corning® 190, Dow Corning® 200 fluid having kinematic viscosities (25 ° C) in the range of 5-100 cSt, preferably 5-50 cSt or even 5-10 cSt, and dimethylpolysiloxane having a kinematic viscosity (e.g. 25 ° C) of about 350 cSt.
Es kann erfindungsgemäß außerordentlich bevorzugt sein, Mischungen der vorgenannten kosmetischen Öle einzusetzen. It may be extraordinarily preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the abovementioned cosmetic oils.
Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäß verwendete Zusammensetzungen (B) sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das kosmetische Öl ausgewählt ist aus natürlichen und synthetischen Kohlenwasserstoffen, besonders bevorzugt aus Paraffinölen, C18-C3o-Isoparaffinen, insbesondere Isoeicosan, Polyiso- butene und Polydecene, C8-C16-lsoparaffinen, sowie 1 ,3-Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexan; den Benzoesäureestern von linearen oder verzweigten C8-22-Alkanolen; Fettalkoholen mit 6 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, die ungesättigt oder verzweigt und gesättigt oder verzweigt und ungesättigt sind; Triglyceriden von linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten, gegebenenfalls hydro- xylierten C8-3o-Fettsäuren, insbesondere natürlichen Ölen; den Dicarbonsäureestern von linearen oder verzweigten C2-Ci0-Alkanolen; den Estern der linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettalkohole mit 2 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen mit linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 2 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, die hydroxyliert sein können; den Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 5 Propylenoxid-Einheiten an ein- oder mehrwertige C8.22-Alkanole; den Anlagerungsprodukten von mindestens 6 Ethylenoxid- und/oder Propylenoxid-Einheiten an ein- oder mehrwertige C3.22-Alkanole; den C8-C22-Fettalkoholestern einwertiger oder mehrwertiger C2-C7-Hydroxycarbonsäuren; den symmetrischen, unsymmetrischen oder cyclischen Estern der Kohlensäure mit C3.22-Alkanolen, C3.22-Alkandiolen oder C3.22-Alkantriolen; den Estern von Dimeren ungesättigter Ci2-C22-Fettsäuren (Dimerfettsäuren) mit einwertigen linearen, verzweigten oder cyclischen C2-Ci8-Alkanolen oder mit mehrwertigen linearen oder verzweigten C2-C6-Alkanolen; Siliconölen sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen. Preferred compositions used in the invention (B) are characterized in that the cosmetic oil is selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably of paraffin oils, C 3 -C 18 o-isoparaffins, especially isoeicosane, polyisobutylene butenes and polydecenes, C 8 -C 16 -lsoparaffins, as well as 1, 3-di (2-ethylhexyl) cyclohexane; the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C 8 -22-alkanols; Fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated; Triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8 -3o fatty acids, in particular natural oils; the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 0 alkanols; the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated; the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C 8 . 2 2-alkanols; the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units of monovalent or polyvalent C 3 . 2 2-alkanols; the C 8 -C 2 2 fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C 2 -C 7 hydroxycarboxylic acids; the symmetric, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C 3 . 2 2-alkanols, C 3 . 2 2-alkanediols or C 3 . 2 2-alkanetriols; the esters of dimers of unsaturated C 2 -C 2 2 -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C 2 -C 8 -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C 2 -C 6 -alkanols; Silicone oils and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die zu ihrer Herstellung verwendete Zusammensetzung (B) mindestens ein kosmetisches Öl in einer Gesamtmenge von 12 - 70 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 14 - 60 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 15 - 52 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 17 - 35 Gew.-%, enthält, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung (B). Preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (B) used for their preparation comprises at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 12-70% by weight, preferably 14-60% by weight, particularly preferably 15-52% by weight. % and most preferably 17-35% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition (B).
Weitere bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die erfindungsgemäß verwendete Zusammensetzung (B) mindestens ein Tensid enthält. Further preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (B) used according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant.
Bei der Auswahl erfindungsgemäß geeigneter Tenside ist es besonders bevorzugt, ein Gemisch von Tensiden einzusetzen, um die Stabilität der erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Oxidationsmittel- Zusammensetzungen (B) optimal einstellen zu können. When selecting suitable surfactants according to the invention, it is particularly preferred to use a mixture of surfactants in order to optimally adjust the stability of the oxidizing agent compositions (B) used according to the invention.
Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das in der Zusammensetzung (B) enthaltene Tensid ausgewählt ist aus nichtionischen Tensiden und anionischen Tensiden sowie aus Mischungen hiervon. Besonders bevorzugt verwendete nichtioni-
sehe Tenside sind ausgewählt sind aus mit 20 - 100 Mol Ethylenoxid pro Mol ethoxyliertem Rizinusöl, ethoxylierten C8-C24-Alkanolen mit 10 - 100 Mol Ethylenoxid pro Mol, ethoxylierten C8-C24- Carbonsäuren mit 10 - 100 Mol Ethylenoxid pro Mol, mit 20 - 100 Mol Ethylenoxid pro Mol ethoxylierten Sorbitanmonoestern von linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten C12 - C30-Carbonsäuren, die hydroxyliert sein können, insbesondere diejenigen von Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure oder von Mischungen dieser Fettsäuren, Alkylmono- und -oligoglycosiden mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest und deren ethoxylierten Analoga, sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen. Preferred oxidation dyes of the invention are characterized in that the surfactant contained in the composition (B) is selected from nonionic surfactants and anionic surfactants, as well as mixtures thereof. Particularly preferably used nonionic see surfactants are selected from with 20 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated castor oil, ethoxylated C 8 -C 2 4-alkanols with 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, ethoxylated C 8 -C 24 carboxylic acids with 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per Mol, with 20 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C 12 -C 30 carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic, palmitic, stearic or mixtures of these fatty acids, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
Bevorzugt ist mit 40 - 80 Mol Ethylenoxid pro Mol ethoxyliertes Rizinusöl in den erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt verwendeten Zusammensetzungen (B) enthalten. Preferably, 40 to 80 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated castor oil are contained in the compositions (B) which are preferably used according to the invention.
Die ethoxylierten C8-C24-Alkanole haben die Formel R 0(CH2CH20)nH, wobei R steht für einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenylrest mit 8 - 24 Kohlenstoffatomen und n, die mittlere Anzahl der Ethylenoxid-Einheiten pro Molekül, für Zahlen von 10 - 100, bevorzugt 10 - 30, besonders bevorzugt 15 bis 25 Mol Ethylenoxid an 1 Mol Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmitoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen. Auch Addukte von 10 - 100 Mol Ethylenoxid an technische Fettalkohole mit 12 - 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Kokos-, Palm-, Palmkern- oder Talgfettalkohol, sind geeignet. Besonders bevorzugt sind Laureth-10, Laureth-12, Laureth-15, Laureth-20, Laureth-30, Myreth-10, Myreth-12, Myreth-15, Myreth-20, Myreth-30, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-12, Ceteth-15, Ceteth- 20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-10, Steareth-12 Steareth-15, Steareth-20, Steareth-30, Oleth-10, Oleth-12, Oleth-15, Oleth-20, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth- 20, Ceteareth-30 sowie Coceth-10, Coceth-12, Coceth-15, Coceth-20 und Coceth-30. The ethoxylated C 8 -C 2 alkanols have the formula R 0 (CH 2 CH 2 0) n H, where R is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 10 to 100, preferably 10 to 30, particularly preferably 15 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol , Oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof. Also, adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are suitable. Particularly preferred are laureth-10, laureth-12, laureth-15, laureth-20, laureth-30, myreth-10, myreth-12, myreth-15, myreth-20, myreth-30, ceteth-10, ceteth-12 , Ceteth-15, ceteth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-10, steareth-12 steareth-15, steareth-20, steareth-30, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-15, oleth-20, oleth- 30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30 and coceth-10, coceth-12, coceth-15, coceth-20 and coceth-30.
Die ethoxylierten C8-C24-Carbonsäuren haben die Formel R 0(CH2CH20)nH, wobei R 0 steht für einen linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 8 -24 Kohlenstoffatomen und n, die mittlere Anzahl der Ethylenoxid-Einheiten pro Molekül, für Zahlen von 10 - 100, bevorzugt 10 - 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an 1 Mol Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurin- säure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Cetylsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Arachyinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure, Eruca- säure und Brassidinsäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Auch Addukte von 10 - 100 Mol Ethylenoxid an technische Fettsäuren mit 12 - 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie Kokos-, Palm-, Palmkern- oder Talgfettsäure, sind geeignet. Besonders bevorzugt sind PEG-50-monostearat, PEG- 100-monostearat, PEG-50-monooleat, PEG-100-monooleat, PEG-50-monolaurat und PEG-100- monolaurat. The ethoxylated C 8 -C 24 carboxylic acids have the formula R 0 (CH 2 CH 2 O) n H, where R 0 is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide Units per molecule, for numbers from 10 to 100, preferably 10 to 30 moles ethylene oxide to 1 mole caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, cetylic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic , Arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and their technical mixtures. Adducts of 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are also suitable. Particularly preferred are PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate.
Bevorzugte mit 20 - 100 Mol Ethylenoxid pro Mol ethoxylierte Sorbitanmonoester von linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten Ci2 - C30-Carbonsäuren, die hydroxyliert sein können, sind ausgewählt aus Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-40, Polysorbate-60 und Polysorbate-80. Preferred 20 - 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C 2 - C 30 carboxylic acids, which can be hydroxylated are selected from Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate-40, Polysorbate-60, and Polysorbate-80th
Weiterhin werden bevorzugt C8 - C22-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside eingesetzt. C8 -C22-Alkyl-
mono- und -oligoglycoside stellen bekannte, handelsübliche Tenside und Emulgatoren dar. Ihre Herstellung erfolgt insbesondere durch Umsetzung von Glucose oder Oligosacchariden mit primären Alkoholen mit 8 - 22 Kohlenstoffatomen. Bezüglich des Glycosidrestes gilt, dass sowohl Mono- glycoside, bei denen ein cyclischer Zuckerrest glycosidisch an den Fettalkohol gebunden ist, als auch oligomere Glycoside mit einem Oligomerisationsgrad bis etwa 8, bevorzugt 1 - 2, geeignet sind. Der Oligomerisierungsgrad ist dabei ein statistischer Mittelwert, dem eine für solche technischen Produkte übliche Homologenverteilung zugrunde liegt. Produkte, die unter dem Warenzeichen Plantacare® erhältlich sind, enthalten eine glucosidisch gebundene C8-Ci6-Alkylgruppe an einem Oligoglucosidrest, dessen mittlerer Oligomerisationsgrad bei 1 - 2, insbesondere 1 ,2 - 1 ,4, liegt. Besonders bevorzugte C8 - C22-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside sind ausgewählt aus Octyl- glucosid, Decylglucosid, Laurylglucosid, Palmitylglucosid, Isostearylglucosid, Stearylglucosid, Arachidylglucosid und Behenylglucosid sowie Mischungen hiervon. Auch die vom Glucamin abgeleiteten Acylglucamide sind als nicht-ionische ÖI-in-Wasser-Emulgatoren geeignet. Furthermore, preference is given to using C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides. C 8 -C 22 -alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, it is true that both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products. Products which are obtainable under the trademark Plantacare ®, a glucosidically bonded C 8 -C 6 alkyl group included in an oligoglucoside whose average degree of oligomerization with 1-2, particularly 1, 2 - 1, 4 is located. Particularly preferred C 8 -C 2 2-alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are selected from octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, palmityl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and behenyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. The glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers.
Als anionische Tenside eignen sich in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Zusammensetzungen (B) alle für die Verwendung am menschlichen Körper geeigneten anionischen oberflächenaktiven Stoffe, die eine wasserlöslich machende, anionische Gruppe, beispielsweise eine Carboxylat-, Sulfat-, Sulfonat- oder Phosphat-Gruppe, und eine lipophile Alkylgruppe mit etwa 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, bevorzugt 8 bis 24 C-Atomen im Molekül aufweisen. Zusätzlich können im Molekül Glykol- oder Polyglykolether-Gruppen, Ester-, Ether- und Amidgruppen sowie Hydroxylgruppen enthalten sein. Beispiele für geeignete anionische Tenside sind, jeweils in Form der Natrium-, Kalium- und Ammonium- sowie der Mono, Di- und Trialkanolammoniumsalze mit 2 bis 4 C-Atomen in der Alkanolgrup- pe, lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen), polyethoxylierte Ethercar- bonsäuren, Acylsarcoside, Acyltauride, Acylisethionate, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkyl- ester und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 1 bis 6 Ethylenoxidgruppen, lineare Alkansulfonate, lineare alpha-Olefinsulfonate, Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit bis zu 6 Doppelbindungen, alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren, C8-C2o-Alkylsulfate und C8-C20- Alkylethersulfate mit zu bis 15 Oxyethylgruppen, Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate, sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether, Ester von Weinsäure oder Zitronensäure mit ethoxylierten oder propoxylierten Fettalkoholen, gegebenenfalls polyethoxylierte Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate, sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester, sowie Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate. Suitable anionic surfactants in the compositions (B) used according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use in the human body which have a water-solubilizing, anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group, and have lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the molecule. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C Atoms (soaps), polyethoxylated ether carboxylic acids, acylsarcosides, acyl taurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 1 to 6 ethylene oxide groups, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having up to 6 double bonds, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids, C 8 -C 2 o-alkyl sulfates and C 8 -C 20 -alkyl ether sulfates containing up to 15 oxyethyl groups, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers, esters of tartaric acid or citric acid with ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty alcohols , optionally polyethoxylated alkyl un d / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, and monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates.
Bevorzugte anionische Tenside sind Seifen, C8-C2o-Alkylsulfate, C8-C20-Alkylethersulfate und C8-C20-Ethercarbonsäuren mit 8 bis 20 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und bis zu 12 Ethylenoxidgruppen im Molekül. Besonders bevorzugt ist Natriumcetearylsulfat. Preferred anionic surfactants are soaps, C 8 -C 2 o-alkyl sulfates, C 8 -C 20 -alkyl ether sulfates and C 8 -C 20 -Ethercarbonsäuren having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule. Particularly preferred is sodium cetearyl sulfate.
Bevorzugt beträgt die Gesamtmenge an mindestens einem Tensid in der Oxidationsmittelzusam- mensetzung (B) 0, 1 - 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 3 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 1 - 2 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Oxidationsmittelzusammensetzung (B). The total amount of at least one surfactant in the oxidizing agent composition (B) is preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight and more preferably 1 to 2% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the oxidizer composition (B).
Besonders bevorzugt enthält die erfindungsgemäß verwendete Oxidationsmittelzusammensetzung (B) insgesamt 0, 1 bis 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 bis 3 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 1 - 2 Gew.-
%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Oxidationsmittelzusammensetzung (B), einer Mischung aus nichtionischen und anionischen Tensiden. The oxidizing agent composition (B) used according to the invention particularly preferably contains a total of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 2% by weight. %, each based on the total weight of the oxidizer composition (B), a mixture of nonionic and anionic surfactants.
Weitere bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die erfindungsgemäß verwendete Zusammensetzung (B) mindestens ein lineares gesättigtes Alkanol mit 12 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen enthält. Further preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (B) used according to the invention contains at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12-30 carbon atoms.
Bevorzugte lineare gesättigte Alkanole mit 12 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere mit 16 - 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, sind ausgewählt aus Cetylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol, Behenyl- alkohol und Lanolinalkohol sowie Mischungen dieser Alkanole. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Alkanolmischungen sind solche, wie sie bei der technischen Hydrierung von pflanzlichen und tierischen Fettsäuren erhältlich sind. Bevorzugt beträgt die Gesamtmenge an mindestens einem linearen gesättigten Alkanol mit 12 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Oxidationsmittelzusammen- setzung (B) 0,1 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 7 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 3 - 5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Oxidationsmittelzusammensetzung (B). Preferred linear saturated alkanols with 12-30 carbon atoms, in particular with 16-22 carbon atoms, are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol and mixtures of these alkanols. Alkanol mixtures which are particularly preferred according to the invention are those obtainable in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids. The total amount of at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12 to 30 carbon atoms in the oxidizing agent composition (B) is preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight and more preferably 3 to 5% by weight .-%, each based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent composition (B).
Weitere bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die erfindungsgemäß verwendete Zusammensetzung (B): Further preferred oxidation colorants according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (B) used according to the invention comprises:
1 bis 24 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 4 - 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 3 - 6 Gew.-% Wasserstoffperoxid (berechnet als 100%iges H202), weiterhin 1 to 24 wt .-%, preferably 4 - 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 3 - 6 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H 2 0 2 ), further
mindestens ein kosmetisches Öl in einer Gesamtmenge von 12 - 70 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 14 - 60 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 15 - 52 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 17 - 35 Gew.-%, weiterhin mindestens ein Tensid in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 bis 3 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 2 Gew.-%, sowie at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 12-70 wt.%, preferably 14-60 wt.%, particularly preferably 15-52 wt.% and most preferably 17-35 wt.%, furthermore at least one surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1 to 2 wt .-%, and
mindestens ein lineares gesättigtes Alkanol mit 12 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 bis 7 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 3 bis 5 Gew.-%, enthält, wobei sich alle Gew.-%-Angaben auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung (B) beziehen. Als zwingende Inhaltsstoffe enthält die zur Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemittel eingesetzte Zusammensetzung (A) mindestens ein Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukt vom Entwicklertyp und mindestens ein Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukt vom Kupplertyp. at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12-30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 7 wt .-% and particularly preferably 3 to 5 wt .-%, all of which % By weight, based on the weight of the composition (B). As compulsory ingredients, the composition (A) used to prepare the oxidation dyes of the invention contains at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor.
Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukte können aufgrund ihres Reaktionsverhaltens in zwei Kategorien eingeteilt werden, so genannte Entwicklerkomponenten und Kupplerkomponenten. Due to their reaction behavior, oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories, so-called developer components and coupler components.
Kupplerkomponenten bilden im Rahmen der oxidativen Färbung allein keine signifikante Färbung aus, sondern benötigen stets die Gegenwart von Entwicklerkomponenten. Entwicklerkomponenten können mit sich selbst den eigentlichen Farbstoff ausbilden. Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Developer components can form the actual dye with themselves.
Die Entwickler- und Kupplerkomponenten werden üblicherweise in freier Form eingesetzt. Bei Substanzen mit Aminogruppen kann es aber bevorzugt sein, sie in Salzform, insbesondere in Form der Hydrochloride oder Hydrobromide oder der Sulfate einzusetzen. The developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. In the case of substances having amino groups, however, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides or hydrobromides or of the sulfates.
Überraschend wurde festgestellt, dass mit den erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemitteln Haarfärbungen mit besonders hoher Waschechtheit erzielt werden konnten. Auch die Reduzierung der Haarschädigung war überraschend hoch. Surprisingly, it was found that with the oxidation dyes according to the invention, hair dyes with particularly high wash fastness could be achieved. The reduction of hair damage was surprisingly high.
Besonders bevorzugte Entwicklerkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Verbindung
aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus p-Phenylendiamin, p-Toluylendiamin, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p- phenylendiamin, 2-(1 ,2-Dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin, N,N-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phe- nylendiamin, 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin, N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol- 1 -yl)propyl]amin, N,N'-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1 ,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, Bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methan, 1 ,3-Bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-Bis-(4-amino- phenyl)-1 ,4-diazacycloheptan, 1 , 10-Bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1 ,4,7,10-tetraoxadecan, p-Aminophe- nol, 4-Amino-3-methylphenol, 4-Amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-Amino-2-(1 ,2-dihydroxyethyl)phe- nol und 4-Amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol, 2,4,5,6- Tetraaminopyrimidin, 4-Hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidin, 2-Hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidin, den physiologisch verträglichen Salzen dieser Verbindungen sowie Mischungen dieser Entwicklerkomponenten und Entwicklerkomponentensalze. Particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2 -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N , N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-Bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis (2.5 -diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phe - nol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine , 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds and mixtures of these developer components and developer component salts.
Ganz besonders bevorzugte Entwicklerkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus 4,5-Diamino-1-(2- hydroxyethyl)pyrazol, p-Toluylendiamin, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin, 2-Methoxymethyl-p- phenylendiamin, N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin und Mischungen dieser Verbindungen sowie deren physiologisch verträglichen Salzen. Außerordentlich bevorzugt ist 4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol und dessen physiologisch verträglichen Salze. Very particularly preferred developer components are selected from 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4 -Amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine and mixtures of these compounds and their physiologically acceptable salts. Extraordinary preference is given to 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and its physiologically tolerated salts.
Die Entwicklerkomponenten werden bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 - 20 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,2 - 10 Gew.-%, und außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,6 - 5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung (A), verwendet. The developer components are preferably used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, and most preferably from 0.6 to 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition (A), used.
Die Entwicklerkomponenten werden bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,005 - 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 - 5 Gew.-%, und außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,3 - 2,5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht des anwendungsbereiten Färbemittels, verwendet. The developer components are preferably in a total amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, and most preferably 0.3 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready for use Colorant, used.
Unter dem Begriff „anwendungsbereites Färbemittel" wird im Sinne dieser Anmeldung die Mischung aus sämtlichen Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukten und sämtlichen Oxidationsmitteln, ggf. in Kombination mit einem geeigneten kosmetischen Träger, z.B. einer Cremebasis, sowie ggf. in Kombination mit mindestens einem direktziehenden Farbstoff, verstanden. For the purposes of this application, the term "ready-to-use colorant" is understood as meaning the mixture of all oxidation dye precursors and all oxidizing agents, if appropriate in combination with a suitable cosmetic carrier, for example a cream base, and optionally in combination with at least one substantive dye.
Kupplerkomponenten im Sinne der Erfindung erlauben mindestens eine Substitution eines chemischen Restes des Kupplers durch die oxidierte Form der Entwicklerkomponente. Dabei bildet sich eine kovalente Bindung zwischen Kuppler- und Entwicklerkomponente aus. Kuppler sind bevorzugt cyclische Verbindungen, die am Cyclus mindestens zwei Gruppen tragen, ausgewählt aus (i) gegebenenfalls substituierten Aminogruppen und/oder (ii) Hydroxylgruppen. Wenn die cyclische Verbindung ein Sechsring (bevorzugt aromatisch) ist, so befinden sich die besagten Gruppen bevorzugt in ortho-Position oder meta-Position zueinander. Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This forms a covalent bond between the coupler and the developer component. Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds which carry at least two groups on the cycle, selected from (i) optionally substituted amino groups and / or (ii) hydroxyl groups. When the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), said groups are preferably in ortho position or meta position to each other.
Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Verfahren sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukt vom Kupplertyp ausgewählt ist aus einer der folgenden Klassen: Preferred processes according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor is selected from one of the following classes:
- 3-Aminophenol (m-Aminophenol) und/oder dessen Derivate, 3-aminophenol (m-aminophenol) and / or its derivatives,
- 3-Aminoanilin (m-Diaminobenzol) und/oder dessen Derivate, 3-aminoaniline (m-diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives,
- 2-Aminoanilin (1 ,2-Diaminobenzol; o-Diaminobenzol) und/oder dessen Derivate, 2-aminoaniline (1, 2-diaminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives,
- 2-Aminophenol (o-Aminophenol) und/oder dessen Derivate,
- Naphthalinderivate mit mindestens einer Hydroxygruppe, 2-aminophenol (o-aminophenol) and / or derivatives thereof, Naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxy group,
- Di- beziehungsweise Trihydroxybenzol und/oder deren Derivate, Di- or trihydroxybenzene and / or derivatives thereof,
- Pyridinderivate, - pyridine derivatives,
- Pyrimidinderivate, - pyrimidine derivatives,
- Monohydroxyindol-Derivate und/oder Monoaminoindol-Derivate, Monohydroxyindole derivatives and / or monoamine indole derivatives,
- Monohydroxyindolin-Derivate und/oder Monoaminoindolin-Derivate, Monohydroxyindoline derivatives and / or monoaminoindoline derivatives,
- Pyrazolonderivate, wie beispielsweise 1-Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-on, Pyrazolone derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
- Morpholinderivate, wie beispielsweise 6-Hydroxybenzomorpholin oder 6-Aminobenzomorpholin, Morpholine derivatives, such as, for example, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
- Chinoxalinderivate, wie beispielsweise 6-Methyl-1 ,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,
Gemische aus zwei oder mehreren Verbindungen aus einer oder mehreren dieser Klassen sind im Rahmen dieser Ausführungsform ebenso erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt. Mixtures of two or more compounds from one or more of these classes are also preferred according to the invention in the context of this embodiment.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte zusätzliche Kupplerkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus 3- Aminophenol, 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-amino- phenoxyethanol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4- Dichlor-3-aminophenol, 2-Aminophenol, 3-Phenylendiamin, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1 ,3- Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzol (= 2-Amino- 4-Hydroxyethylaminoanisol), 1 ,3-Bis (2,4-diaminophenyl)propan, 2,6-Bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1- methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2- Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5- dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4-ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-Amino-4-(2-methoxy- ethoxy)-5-methylphenylamin, 1 -Amino-3-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzol, Resorcin, 2-Methylresorcin, 4-Chlorresorcin, 1 ,2,4-Trihydroxybenzol, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin, 3-Amino-2-methyl- amino-6-methoxypyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridin, 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridin, 1- Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-on, 1-Naphthol, 1 ,5-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 2,7-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1 ,7- Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1 ,8-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 4-Hydroxyindol, 6-Hydroxyindol, 7-Hydroxyindol, 4- Hydroxyindolin, 6-Hydroxyindolin, 7-Hydroxyindolin oder Gemischen dieser Verbindungen oder den physiologisch verträglichen Salzen der vorgenannten Verbindungen. Particularly preferred additional coupler components according to the invention are selected from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-amino-phenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro 2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3 Bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene (= 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole), 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [ 3-morpholin-4-ylphenyl) amino] ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine, 1-amino-3-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol , 4-chlororesorcinol, 1, 2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxy pyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazole-5 on, 1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline or mixtures of these compounds or the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
Ganz besonders bevorzugt sind dabei 3-Aminophenol, Resorcin, 2-Methylresorcin, 5-Amino-2- methylphenol, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan, 1 -Methoxy-2- amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzol, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin und 1-Naphthol sowie deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze und Mischungen der genannten Komponenten. Very particularly preferred are 3-aminophenol, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1 - Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 1-naphthol and their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures of the said components.
Die mindestens eine Kupplerkomponente wird bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 - 20 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,2 - 10 Gew.-%, und außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,6 - 5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung (A), verwendet. The at least one coupler component is preferably in a total amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 10 wt .-%, and most preferably 0.6 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the weight the composition (A) used.
Die mindestens eine Kupplerkomponente wird bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,005 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 - 5 Gew.-%, und außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,3 - 2,5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht des erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemittels, verwendet. The at least one coupler component is preferably used in a total amount of 0.005-10 wt%, preferably 0.1-5 wt%, and most preferably 0.3-2.5 wt%, each based on the weight of Oxidation colorant of the invention used.
Im Rahmen der vorliegenden Erfindung sind folgende Kombinationen aus Oxidationsfarbstoffvor- produkten vom Entwicklertyp und vom Kupplertyp besonders bevorzugt, wobei die Aminverbindun-
gen und die Stickstoffheterocyclen auch in Form ihrer physiologisch verträglichen Salze vorliegen können: In the context of the present invention, the following combinations of oxidation dye precursors of the developer type and of the coupler type are particularly preferred, the amine compounds being and the nitrogen heterocycles can also be present in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts:
p-Toluylendiamin / Resorcin; p-toluenediamine / resorcinol;
p-Toluylendiamin / 2-Methylresorcin; p-toluenediamine / 2-methylresorcinol;
p-Toluylendiamin / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; p-toluenediamine / 5-amino-2-methylphenol;
p-Toluylendiamin / 3-Aminophenol; p-toluenediamine / 3-aminophenol;
p-Toluylendiamin / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol; p-toluenediamine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol;
p-Toluylendiamin / 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan; p-toluenediamine / 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane;
p-Toluylendiamin / 1 -Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol; p-toluenediamine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene;
p-Toluylendiamin / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin; p-toluenediamine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine;
p-Toluylendiamin / 1 -Naphthol; p-toluenediamine / 1-naphthol;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / Resorcin; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / resorcinol;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 2-Methylresorcin; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 2-methylresorcinol;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 5-amino-2-methylphenol;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 3-Aminophenol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 3-aminophenol;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 1-Naphthol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 1-naphthol;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / Resorcin; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / resorcinol;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 2-Methylresorcin; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 2-methylresorcinol;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 5-amino-2-methylphenol;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 3-Aminophenol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 3-aminophenol;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 1-Naphthol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 1-naphthol;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / Resorcin; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / resorcinol;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 2-Methylresorcin; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 2-methylresorcinol;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 5-amino-2-methylphenol;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 3-Aminophenol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) -propyl] amine / 3-aminophenol;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol; N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)- propan; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxy- ethylamino)benzol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amin / 1-Naphthol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 1-naphthol;
4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / Resorcin; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / resorcinol;
4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 2-Methylresorcin; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 2-methylresorcinol;
4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 5-amino-2-methylphenol;
4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 3-Aminophenol; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 3-aminophenol;
4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol;
4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane;
4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene;
4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine;
4,5-Diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 1 -Naphthol. 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 1-naphthol.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind die Kombinationen 4,5-Diamino-1 -(2-hydroxyethyl)- pyrazol/3-Aminophenol und p-Toluylendiamin/3-Aminophenol. Außerordentlich bevorzugt, besonders im Hinblick auf die Verbesserung der Waschechtheit, ist die Kombination 4,5-Diamino-1-(2- hydroxyethyl)pyrazol/3-Aminophenol. Particularly preferred according to the invention are the combinations 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 3-aminophenol and p-toluenediamine / 3-aminophenol. Highly preferred, especially with regard to the improvement of washfastness, the combination is 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 3-aminophenol.
Um eine ausgewogene und subtile Nuancenausbildung zu erzielen, ist es erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, wenn weitere farbgebende Komponenten in dem erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemittel enthalten sind. In order to achieve a balanced and subtle nuance formation, it is preferred according to the invention if further coloring components are present in the oxidation colorant according to the invention.
In einer weiteren Ausführungsform können die erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemittel zusätzlich mindestens einen direktziehenden Farbstoff enthalten. Dabei handelt sich um Farbstoffe, die direkt auf das Haar aufziehen und keinen oxidativen Prozess zur Ausbildung der Farbe benötigen. Direktziehende Farbstoffe sind üblicherweise Nitrophenylendiamine, Nitroaminophenole, Azofarb- stoffe, Anthrachinone oder Indophenole. In a further embodiment, the oxidation colorants of the invention may additionally contain at least one substantive dye. These are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
Ein weiterer Gegenstand der vorliegenden Anmeldung ist ein Verfahren zur Färb Veränderung keratinischer Fasern, insbesondere menschlicher Haare, das folgende Verfahrensschritte umfasst: i) Herstellung einer Oxidationsfärbemittels zur Farbveränderung keratinischer Fasern gemäß einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 14 unmittelbar vor der Anwendung durch Vermischen von mindestens einer Zusammensetzung (A), enthaltend in einem kosmetisch geeigneten Träger mindestens ein Alkalisierungsmittel, mindestens ein Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukt vom Entwicklertyp und mindestens ein Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukt vom Kupplertyp, mit mindestens einer Zusammensetzung (B), enthaltend in einem kosmetischen geeigneten Träger mindestens ein kosmetisches Öl in einer Gesamtmenge von 10 - 80 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung (B), und Wasserstoffperoxid, A further subject of the present application is a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following process steps: i) Preparation of an oxidation colorant for the color change of keratinic fibers according to one of claims 1 to 14 immediately prior to use by mixing at least one composition (A) comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one alkalizing agent, at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor containing at least one cosmetic oil in a total of 10, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. 80% by weight, based on the weight of the composition (B), and hydrogen peroxide,
ii) Aufbringen des anwendungsbereiten Oxidationsfärbemittels aus Verfahrensschritt i) auf die zu behandelnden keratinischen Fasern und Belassen des Oxidationsfärbemittels für eine Einwirkzeit von 5 bis 60 Minuten auf den Fasern; ii) applying the ready oxidation dye from step i) to the keratin fibers to be treated and leaving the oxidation dye for a period of from 5 to 60 minutes on the fibers;
iii) Ausspülen der Fasern, iii) rinsing the fibers,
wobei das Verfahren dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, dass mindestens eine der Zusammensetzungen (A) oder (B) mindestens ein 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituiertes Silikon der Formel (V) enthält,
the process being characterized in that at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) contains at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V),
in der in the
A für eine über ein -O- gebundene Struktureinheit (I), (II) oder (III) A for a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) bonded via an -O-
oder für einen über ein -O- gebundenen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest, enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III), oder für die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) oder für -OH steht, or represents an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing an -O- radical, containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III), or represents half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or -OH .
* für eine Bindung zu einer der Struktureinheiten (I), (II) oder (III) oder für eine * for a bond to one of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) or for a
Endgruppe B (Si-gebunden) oder D (O-gebunden) steht, End group B (Si-bonded) or D (O-linked),
B für eine Gruppe -OH, -0-Si(CH3)3, -0-Si(CH3)2OH , -0-Si(CH3)2OCH3 steht,B is a group -OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
D für eine Gruppe -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3 steht, D is a group -H, -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
a, b und c für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 990 stehen, mit der Maßgabe a + b + c > 0 a, b and c are integers from 0 to 990, with the proviso that a + b + c> 0
m, n und o für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 990 stehen. m, n and o stand for integers from 1 to 990.
Ein bevorzugtes erfindungsgemäßes Verfahren ist dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Einwirkzeit in Schritt ii) 15 bis 50 Minuten, besonders bevorzugt 30 - 45 Minuten, beträgt. A preferred process according to the invention is characterized in that the reaction time in step ii) is 15 to 50 minutes, more preferably 30 to 45 minutes.
Für weitere bevorzugte Ausführungsformen des vorgenannten erfindungsgemäßen Verfahrens gilt mutatis mutandis das zu den bevorzugten Oxidationsfärbemitteln Gesagte. For further preferred embodiments of the aforementioned method according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the preferred Oxidationsfärbemitteln said.
Die zur Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfärbemittel verwendeten Zusammensetzungen (A) und (B) werden bevorzugt als Mehrkomponentenverpackungseinheit (Kit-of-Parts) angeboten.
Für bevorzugte Ausführungsformen des vorgenannten erfindungsgemäßen Kit-of-Parts gilt mutatis mutandis das zu den bevorzugten Oxidationsfärbemitteln und das zu den bevorzugten Verfahren Gesagte. The compositions (A) and (B) used to prepare the oxidation colorants of the invention are preferably offered as a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts). For preferred embodiments of the abovementioned kit-of-parts according to the invention, mutatis mutandis, the statements made regarding the preferred oxidation dyes and the preferred methods apply.
Ausführungsbeispiele embodiments
Beispiel 1 example 1
Die in Tabelle 1 dargestellten Färbecreme-Zusammensetzungen (A)-1 (erfindungsgemäß) und (A)- 2 (nicht erfindungsgemäß) wurden im Gewichtsverhältnis 1 :1 entweder mit der in Tabelle 2 dargestellten Zusammensetzung (B)-E = Oxidationsmittelzusammensetzung (B) mit erfindungsgemäßem Ölgehalt oder mit der in Tabelle 3 dargestellten Zusammensetzung (B)-V = Oxidations- mittelzusammensetzung (B) mit geringerem Ölgehalt jeweils zu einem anwendungsfertigen Oxida- tionsfärbemittel vermischt. Anschließend wurde das anwendungsbereite Oxidationsfärbemittel auf die Teststrähnen appliziert, und zwar je 4 g Färbemittel pro Gramm Haar. The coloring cream compositions (A) -1 (according to the invention) and (A) - 2 (not according to the invention) shown in Table 1 were used in a weight ratio of 1: 1 either with the composition (B) -E = oxidizing agent composition (B) shown in Table 2. with inventive oil content or with the composition shown in Table 3 (B) -V = Oxidizing agent composition (B) with a lower oil content mixed in each case to a ready to use oxidation colorant. Subsequently, the ready-to-use oxidation colorant was applied to the test strands, 4 g of colorant per gram of hair.
Das Oxidationsfärbemittel verblieb jeweils 30 Minuten auf den Strähnen. Anschließend wurden die Strähnen mit 32°C warmem Leitungswasser mit einer Fließgeschwindigkeit von 0,5 Liter pro Minute 2 Minuten lang ausgespült. Anschließend wurden die Strähnen dreimal gekämmt, bevor die eigentlichen Kämmbarkeits-Messungen (10 Kammstriche an jeweils 20 Strähnen) durchgeführt wurden. The oxidation stain remained on the streaks for 30 minutes each. The strands were then rinsed with 32 ° C tap water at a flow rate of 0.5 liters per minute for 2 minutes. Subsequently, the strands were combed three times before the actual combability measurements (10 combs of 20 strands each) were carried out.
Tabelle 1 : Zusammensetzungen (A): Färbecremes (Mengenangaben in Gew.-%): TABLE 1 Compositions (A): Dyeing creams (amounts in% by weight):
(A)-1 (A)-2 erfindungsgemäß Vergleich (A) -1 (A) -2 according to the invention comparison
Belsil ADM 8301 E* 2,0 -Belsil ADM 8301 E * 2.0 -
Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate 0,02 0,02 Toluene-2,5-diamines sulfates 0.02 0.02
2-Amino-4-Hydroxyethylaminoanisole Sulfate 0,02 0,02 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole sulfates 0.02 0.02
(1 -Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzolsulfat) (1-Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzenesulfate)
4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene 0,01 0,01 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene 0.01-0.01
Cetearyl Alcohol 14 14 Cetearyl Alcohol 14 14
Glyceryl Stearate 1 ,4 1 ,4 Glyceryl Stearate 1, 4 1, 4
Ammonium Hydroxide 6,8 6,8 Ammonium hydroxides 6.8 6.8
Ceteareth-20 3,5 3,5 Ceteareth-20 3,5 3,5
Octyldodecanol 1 ,0 1 ,0 Octyldodecanol 1, 0 1, 0
Sodium Laureth Sulfate 0,5 0,5 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 0.5 0.5
1 ,3-Butylenglycol 3,5 3,5 1,3-Butylene glycol 3,5 3,5
Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 1 ,0 1 ,0 Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 1, 0 1, 0
Oleic Acid 0, 1 0, 1 Oleic acid 0, 1 0, 1
Parfüm (Fragrance) 0,5 0,5 Perfume (Fragrance) 0,5 0,5
Potassium Stearate 0,5 0,5 Potassium Stearate 0.5 0.5
Sodium Sulfite 0,2 0,2 Sodium sulphite 0.2 0.2
Tetrasodium EDTA 0,3 0,3 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.3 0.3
Carbomer 0,3 0,3 Carbomer 0.3 0.3
Polyquaternium-39 (ex Merquat 3330) 0,05 0,05 Polyquaternium-39 (ex Merquat 3330) 0.05 0.05
Potassium Hydroxide 0,08 0,08
Ascorbic Acid 0,02 0,02Potassium Hydroxide 0.08 0.08 Ascorbic acid 0.02 0.02
Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate 0, 1 0, 1 Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate 0, 1 0, 1
Sodium Sulfate 0, 1 0, 1 Sodium Sulfates 0, 1 0, 1
Citric Acid 0,002 0,002 Citric Acid 0.002 0.002
Cl 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) 0,3 0,3 Cl 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) 0.3 0.3
Aqua (Water, Eau) ad 100 ad 100 Aqua (Water, Eau) ad 100 ad 100
Belsil ADM 8301 E (ex Wacker Silicones) = Mikroemulsion, Bestandteile (INCI: Belsil ADM 8301 E (ex Wacker Silicones) = microemulsion, constituents (INCI:
Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane (10 Gew.-%); Trideceth-5 (5 Gew.-%); Glycerin (2,5 Gew.-%), Phenoxyethanol (0,45 Gew.-%), Rest: Wasser (82,05 Gew.-%) Amodimethicone / morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane (10% by weight); Trideceth-5 (5 wt%); Glycerol (2.5% by weight), phenoxyethanol (0.45% by weight), balance: water (82.05% by weight)
Tabelle 2: Oxidationsmittel-Zusammensetzung (B)-E mit erfindungsgemäßem Ölgehalt Table 2: Oxidizing agent composition (B) -E with oil content according to the invention
(Mengenangaben in Gew.-%): (Amounts in% by weight):
>em Ölgehalt > oil content
Tabelle 4: Nasskämmbarkeit; Kämmarbeit in mJ Table 4: wet combability; Combing work in mJ
Kämmarbeit [mJ] Relative Änderung [%] Combing work [mJ] Relative change [%]
(A)-2 + (B)-V (Vergleich) 1250 100 (A) -2 + (B) -V (comparison) 1250 100
(A)-2 + (B)-E (Vergleich) 905 72 (A) -2 + (B) -E (comparison) 905 72
(A)-1 + (B)-V (Vergleich) 980 78 (A) -1 + (B) -V (comparison) 980 78
(A)-1 + (B)-E (erfindungsgemäß) 728 58
Tabelle 5: Splissanzahl nach 20000 Kämmungen (Anteil in %) (A) -1 + (B) -E (Inventive) 728 58 Table 5: Number of splits after 20,000 combings (share in%)
Wie die in den Tabellen 4 und 5 dargestellten Daten zeigen, wirken sich sowohl der Gehalt an 4- Morpholinomethyl-substituierten Silikon der Formel (V) allein (enthalten in dem Rohstoff Belsil ADM 8301 E) als auch die Verwendung einer Oxidationsmittelzusammensetzung (B) mit hohem Ölgehalt ((B)-E) allein bereits positiv auf den Schutz des Haares vor oxidativer Schädigung aus: sowohl die Kämmarbeit wird um 22 bzw. 28 % reduziert, wobei eine geringere Kämmarbeit gleichbedeutend ist mit einer geringeren Haarschädigung; als auch die durch ein standardisiertes Testkämmen verursachte Splisszahl wird um 27 bzw. 13 % reduziert. As the data presented in Tables 4 and 5 show, both the content of 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of formula (V) alone (contained in the Belsil ADM 8301 E raw material) and the use of an oxidizer composition (B) are implicated high oil content ((B) -E) alone already has a positive effect on the protection of the hair against oxidative damage: both the combing work is reduced by 22 and 28%, whereby a lower combing work is equivalent to a lower hair damage; and the split number caused by a standardized test comb is reduced by 27% and 13%, respectively.
Demgegenüber bringt das erfindungsgemäße Oxidationsfärbemittel, das 4-Morpholinomethyl- substituierte Silikone der Formel (V) mit einer Oxidationsmittelzusammensetzung (B) mit hohem Ölgehalt kombiniert, eine weitere sehr deutliche Reduktion der Nasskämmarbeit und der Splissrate.
On the other hand, the oxidation dye of the present invention combining 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones of the formula (V) with a high-oil-content oxidizing agent composition (B) brings a further very marked reduction in wet combing work and splitting rate.
Claims
Patentansprüche: claims:
1. Oxidationsfärbemittel zur oxidativen Farbveränderung keratinischer Fasern, insbesondere menschlicher Haare, das unmittelbar vor der Anwendung durch Vermischen von mindestens einer Zusammensetzung (A), enthaltend in einem kosmetisch geeigneten Träger mindestens ein Alkalisierungsmittel, mindestens ein Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukt vom Entwicklertyp und mindestens ein Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukt vom Kupplertyp, mit mindestens einer Zusammensetzung (B), enthaltend in einem kosmetischen geeigneten Träger mindestens ein kosmetisches Öl in einer Gesamtmenge von 10 - 80 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung (B), und Wasserstoffperoxid, hergestellt wird, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mindestens eine der Zusammensetzungen (A) oder (B) mindestens ein 4-Morpholinomethyl- substituiertes Silikon der Formel (V) enthält, 1. Oxidation colorant for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, immediately before use by mixing at least one composition (A) comprising in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle at least one alkalizing agent, at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor, comprising at least one composition (B) comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 10-80% by weight, based on the weight of the composition (B), of hydrogen peroxide, characterized in that at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) contains at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V),
in der in the
A oder (III) A or (III)
oder für einen über ein -O- gebundenen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest, enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III), oder für die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) oder für -OH steht,
* für eine Bindung zu einer der Struktureinheiten (I), (II) oder (III) oder für eineor represents an oligomeric or polymeric radical containing an -O- radical, containing structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III), or represents half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or -OH . * for a bond to one of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) or for a
Endgruppe B (Si-gebunden) oder D (O-gebunden) steht, End group B (Si-bonded) or D (O-linked),
B für eine Gruppe -OH, -0-Si(CH3)3, -0-Si(CH3)2OH , -0-Si(CH3)2OCH3 steht,B is a group -OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
D für eine Gruppe -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3 steht, D is a group -H, -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
a, b und c für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 990 stehen, mit der Maßgabe a + b + c > 0 a, b and c are integers from 0 to 990, with the proviso that a + b + c> 0
m, n und o für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 990 stehen. m, n and o stand for integers from 1 to 990.
Oxidationsfärbemittel nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mindestens eine der Zusammensetzungen (A) oder (B) mindestens ein 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituiertes Silikon der Formel (V) enthält, bei dem Oxidation colorant according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) contains at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V), in which
m > (n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > (n + o), bevorzugt m> (n + o) or (a + b + c)> (n + o), preferably
m > 8(n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > 8(n + o), besonders bevorzugt m> 8 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 8 (n + o), more preferably
m > 25(n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > 25(n + o), weiter bevorzugt m> 25 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 25 (n + o), more preferably
m > 77(n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > 77(n + o) und insbesondere m> 77 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 77 (n + o) and in particular
m > 200(n + o) bzw. (a+b+c) > 200(n + o) gilt. m> 200 (n + o) or (a + b + c)> 200 (n + o).
Oxidationsfärbemittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituierte(s) Silikon(e) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,001 - 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,005 - 2 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,01 - 1 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,02 - 0,1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Oxidationsfärbemittels, enthält. Oxidation colorant according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone (s) in a total amount of 0.001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.005-2 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0 , 01 - 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.02 - 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the oxidation colorant contains.
Oxidationsfärbemittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 , 2 oder 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es mindestens ein 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituiertes Silikon der Formel (V), das jeweils mindestens eine der Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) und (III) aufweist, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,001 - 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,005 - 2 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,01 - 1 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,02 - 0, 1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Oxidationsfärbemittels, enthält. Oxidation colorant according to one of claims 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that it comprises at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of formula (V), each having at least one of the structural units of the formulas (I), (II) and (III) , in a total amount of 0.001 - 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 - 2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 - 1 wt .-%, most preferably 0.02 - 0, 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the oxidation colorant.
Oxidationsfärbemittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es Hydroxy-terminierte(s) 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituierte(s) Silikon(e) enthält, in denen das Molverhältnis Hydroxy/Alkoxy im Bereich von 0,2: 1 bis 0,4: 1 , bevorzugt im Bereich von 1 :0,8 bis 1 : 1 , 1 liegt. Oxidation colorant according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains hydroxy-terminated (s) 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted (s) silicone (s), in which the molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy in the range of 0.2: 1 to 0.4: 1, preferably in the range of 1: 0.8 to 1: 1, 1.
Oxidationsfärbemittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die gewichtsmittlere Molmasse des 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituierten Silikons der Formel (V) im Bereich von 2.000 bis 1.000.000 gmol" , bevorzugt im Bereich von 5.000 bis 200.000 gmol" liegt.
Oxidation colorant according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the weight average molecular weight of the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) in the range of 2,000 to 1,000,000 gmol " , preferably in the range of 5,000 to 200,000 gmol " .
7. Oxidationsfärbemittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das 4- Morpholinomethyl-substituierte Silikon der Formel (V) in Form einer ÖI-in-Wasser-Emulsion vorliegt, in der die zahlenmittlere Größe der Siliconpartikel in der Emulsion bevorzugt im Bereich von 3 bis 500 nm, besonders bevorzugt im Bereich von 5 bis 60 nm liegt. 7. oxidation dye according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which the number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion is preferred in the range of 3 to 500 nm, more preferably in the range of 5 to 60 nm.
8. Oxidationsfärbemittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine kosmetische Öl, das in der Zusammensetzung (B) in einer Gesamtmenge von 10 - 80 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung (B), enthalten ist, ausgewählt ist aus natürlichen und synthetischen Kohlenwasserstoffen, besonders bevorzugt aus Paraffinölen, C18-C3o-Isoparaffinen, insbesondere Isoeicosan, Polyisobutene und Polydecene, C8-C16-lsoparaffinen, sowie 1 ,3-Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexan; den Benzoesäureestern von linearen oder verzweigten C8-22-Alkanolen; Fettalkoholen mit 6 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, die ungesättigt oder verzweigt und gesättigt oder verzweigt und ungesättigt sind; Triglyceriden von linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten, gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C8.30- Fettsäuren, insbesondere natürlichen Ölen; den Dicarbonsäureestern von linearen oder verzweigten C2-Ci0-Alkanolen; den Estern der linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettalkohole mit 2 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen mit linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 2 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, die hydroxyliert sein können; den Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 5 Propylenoxid-Einheiten an ein- oder mehrwertige C8_22-Alka- nole; den Anlagerungsprodukten von mindestens 6 Ethylenoxid- und/oder Propylenoxid- Einheiten an ein- oder mehrwertige C3.22-Alkanole; den C8-C22-Fettalkoholestern einwertiger oder mehrwertiger C2-C7-Hydroxycarbonsäuren; den symmetrischen, unsymmetrischen oder cyclischen Estern der Kohlensäure mit C3.22-Alkanolen, C3.22-Alkandiolen oder C3.22-Alkan- triolen; den Estern von Dimeren ungesättigter Ci2-C22-Fettsäuren (Dimerfettsäuren) mit einwertigen linearen, verzweigten oder cyclischen C2-Ci8-Alkanolen oder mit mehrwertigen linearen oder verzweigten C2-C6-Alkanolen; Siliconölen sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen. 8. oxidation dye according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the at least one cosmetic oil, in the composition (B) in a total amount of 10 - 80 wt .-%, based on the weight of the composition (B), is included, is selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably of paraffin oils, C 3 -C 18 o-isoparaffins, especially isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, C -lsoparaffinen 8 -C 16, and 1, 3-di- (2- ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane; the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C 8 -22-alkanols; Fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated; Triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8 . 30 - Fatty acids, in particular natural oils; the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 0 alkanols; the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated; the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C 8 _ 22 alkanols; the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units to monovalent or polyvalent C 3 . 2 2-alkanols; the C 8 -C 2 2 fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C 2 -C 7 hydroxycarboxylic acids; the symmetric, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C 3 . 22 -alkanols, C 3 . 22 alkanediols or C 3 . 22 -alkanetriols; the esters of dimers of unsaturated C 2 -C 22 -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C 2 -C 8 -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C 2 -C 6 -alkanols; Silicone oils and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
9. Oxidationsfärbemittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Zusammensetzung (B) mindestens ein kosmetisches Öl in einer Gesamtmenge von 12 - 70 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 14 - 60 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 15 - 52 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 17 - 35 Gew.-%, enthält, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung (B). 9. oxidation dye according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the composition (B) at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 12 - 70 wt .-%, preferably 14 - 60 wt .-%, particularly preferably 15 - 52 Wt .-% and most preferably 17 - 35 wt .-%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (B).
10. Oxidationsfärbemittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Zusammensetzung (B): 10. oxidation dye according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the composition (B):
1 bis 24 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 4 - 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 3 - 6 Gew.-% Wasserstoffperoxid (berechnet als 100%iges H202), weiterhin 1 to 24 wt .-%, preferably 4 - 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 3 - 6 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H 2 0 2 ), further
mindestens ein kosmetisches Öl in einer Gesamtmenge von 12 - 70 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 14 -
60 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 15 - 52 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 17 - 35 Gew.-%, weiterhin at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 12-70% by weight, preferably 14- 60% by weight, more preferably 15-52% by weight and most preferably 17-35% by weight
mindestens ein Tensid in einer Gesamtmenge von 0, 1 - 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 3 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 1 - 2 Gew.-%, sowie at least one surfactant in a total amount of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1 - 2 wt .-%, and
mindestens ein lineares gesättigtes Alkanol mit 12 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in einer Gesamtmenge von 0, 1 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 7 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 3 - 5 Gew.- at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12 to 30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0, 1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 7 wt.% and particularly preferably 3 to 5 wt.
%, %
enthält, wobei sich alle Gew.-%-Angaben auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung (B) beziehen. contains, wherein all wt .-% - information on the weight of the composition (B) relate.
1 1. Oxidationsfärbemittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 10, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es mindestens ein kosmetisches Öl in einer Gesamtmenge von 5 - 50 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 8 - 40 Gew.-% besonders bevorzugt 12 - 30 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 15 - 25 Gew.-%, enthält, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Oxidationsfärbemittels. 1 1. oxidation dye according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 5 - 50 wt .-%, preferably 8 - 40 wt .-% particularly preferably 12 - 30 wt .-% , most preferably 15-25 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the oxidation colorant.
12. Oxidationsfärbemittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 1 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituierte Silikon der Formel (V) in der Zusammensetzung (A) enthalten ist. 12. oxidation dye according to one of claims 1 to 1 1, characterized in that the at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) in the composition (A) is contained.
13. Oxidationsfärbemittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 12, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituierte Silikon der Formel (V) in der Zusammensetzung (B) enthalten ist. 13. oxidation dye according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V) is contained in the composition (B).
14. Oxidationsfärbemittel nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 13, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass eine Kombination aus mindestens einem Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukt vom Entwicklertyp und mindestens einem Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukt vom Kuppertyp enthalten ist, die ausgewählt ist aus mindestens einer der folgenden Kombinationen, wobei die Aminverbindungen und die Stickstoffheterocyclen auch in Form ihrer physiologisch verträglichen Salze vorliegen können: p-Toluylendiamin / Resorcin; 14. An oxidation colorant according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that a combination of at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type is selected, which is selected from at least one of the following combinations, wherein the amine compounds and the nitrogen heterocycles also in May be present form of their physiologically acceptable salts: p-toluenediamine / resorcinol;
p-Toluylendiamin / 2-Methylresorcin; p-toluenediamine / 2-methylresorcinol;
p-Toluylendiamin / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; p-toluenediamine / 5-amino-2-methylphenol;
p-Toluylendiamin / 3-Aminophenol; p-toluenediamine / 3-aminophenol;
p-Toluylendiamin / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol; p-toluenediamine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol;
p-Toluylendiamin / 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan; p-toluenediamine / 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane;
p-Toluylendiamin / 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol; p-toluenediamine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene;
p-Toluylendiamin / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin; p-toluenediamine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine;
p-Toluylendiamin / 1-Naphthol; p-toluenediamine / 1-naphthol;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / Resorcin; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / resorcinol;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 2-Methylresorcin;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 2-methylresorcinol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 5-amino-2-methylphenol;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 3-Aminophenol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 3-aminophenol;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol; 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine;
2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylendiamin / 1-Naphthol; 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine / 1-naphthol;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / Resorcin; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / resorcinol;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 2-Methylresorcin; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 2-methylresorcinol;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 5-amino-2-methylphenol;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 3-Aminophenol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 3-aminophenol;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 1 -Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol; 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine;
2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylendiamin / 1 -Naphthol 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine / 1-naphthol
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1 -yl)propyl]amin / Resorcin; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / resorcinol;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1 -yl)propyl]amin / 2-Methylresorcin; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 2-methylresorcinol;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1 -yl)propyl]amin / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1 -yl)propyl]amin / 3-Aminophenol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 5-amino-2-methylphenol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 3-aminophenol;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1 -yl)propyl]amin / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)- ethanol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) -propyl] amine / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -ethanol;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1 -yl)propyl]amin / 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)- propan; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1 -yl)propyl]amin / 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2- hydroxyethylamino)benzol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene;
N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1 -yl)propyl]amin / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin; N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1 H-imidazol-1 -yl)propyl]amin / 1-Naphthol; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine / 1-naphthol;
4,5-Diamino-1 -(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / Resorcin; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / resorcinol;
4,5-Diamino-1 -(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 2-Methylresorcin; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 2-methylresorcinol;
4,5-Diamino-1 -(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 5-Amino-2-methylphenol; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 5-amino-2-methylphenol;
4,5-Diamino-1 -(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 3-Aminophenol; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 3-aminophenol;
4,5-Diamino-1 -(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol;
4,5-Diamino-1 -(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane;
4,5-Diamino-1 -(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol; 4,5-Diamino-1 -(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine;
4,5-Diamino-1 -(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazol / 1-Naphthol. 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole / 1-naphthol.
15. Verfahren zur Farbveränderung keratinischer Fasern, insbesondere menschlicher Haare, das
folgende Verfahrensschritte umfasst: 15. A process for changing the color of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, the the following method steps include:
i) Herstellung einer Oxidationsfärbemittels zur Farbveränderung keratinischer Fasern gemäß einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 14 unmittelbar vor der Anwendung durch Vermischen von mindestens einer Zusammensetzung (A), enthaltend in einem kosmetisch geeigneten Träger mindestens ein Alkalisierungsmittel, mindestens ein Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukt vom Entwicklertyp und mindestens ein Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukt vom Kupplertyp, mit mindestens einer Zusammensetzung (B), enthaltend in einem kosmetischen geeigneten Träger mindestens ein kosmetisches Öl in einer Gesamtmenge von 10 - 80 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung (B), und Wasserstoffperoxid, ii) Aufbringen des anwendungsbereiten Oxidationsfärbemittels aus Verfahrensschritt i) auf die zu behandelnden keratinischen Fasern und Belassen des Oxidationsfärbemittels für eine Einwirkzeit von 5 bis 60 Minuten auf den Fasern; i) Preparation of an oxidation colorant for the color change of keratinic fibers according to one of claims 1 to 14 immediately before use by mixing at least one composition (A) comprising in a cosmetically suitable carrier at least one alkalizing agent, at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer type and at least one oxidation dye precursor of Coupler type, having at least one composition (B), comprising in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle at least one cosmetic oil in a total amount of 10 to 80 wt .-%, based on the weight of the composition (B), and hydrogen peroxide, ii) application of the ready-to-use Oxidation colorant from process step i) on the keratinic fibers to be treated and leaving the oxidation colorant for a contact time of 5 to 60 minutes on the fibers;
iii) Ausspülen der Fasern, iii) rinsing the fibers,
dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mindestens eine der Zusammensetzungen (A) oder (B) mindestens ein 4-Morpholinomethyl-substituiertes Silikon der Formel (V) enthält, characterized in that at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) contains at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V),
in der in the
A für eine über ein -O- gebundene Struktureinheit (I), (II) oder (III) A for a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) bonded via an -O-
oder für einen über ein -O- gebundenen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest, enthal-
tend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III), oder für die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) oder für -OH steht, * für eine Bindung zu einer der Struktureinheiten (I), (II) oder (III) oder für eine or for an oligomeric or polymeric radical bonded via an -O-, containing are structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III), or for one half of a connecting O atom to a structural unit (III) or -OH, * for a bond to one of the structural units (I), ( II) or (III) or for a
Endgruppe B (Si-gebunden) oder D (O-gebunden) steht, End group B (Si-bonded) or D (O-linked),
B für eine Gruppe -OH, -0-Si(CH3)3, -0-Si(CH3)2OH , -0-Si(CH3)2OCH3 steht,B is a group -OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
D für eine Gruppe -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3 steht, a, b und c für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 990 stehen, mit der Maßgabe a + b + c > 0 m, n und o für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 990 stehen.
D is a group -H, -Si (CH 3 ) 3 , -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 , a, b and c are integers from 0 to 990, with the proviso a + b + c> 0 m, n and o stand for integers from 1 to 990.
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DE102012223803.4A DE102012223803A1 (en) | 2012-12-19 | 2012-12-19 | Hair-friendly oxidation dye with oily oxidizing agent composition |
PCT/EP2013/073938 WO2014095178A2 (en) | 2012-12-19 | 2013-11-15 | Gentle oxidation hair dye with an oil-containing oxidizer composition |
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EP (1) | EP2934683A2 (en) |
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DE102012219583A1 (en) * | 2012-10-25 | 2014-04-30 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Hair care products containing selected amino-functional silicones and selected cationic keratin hydrolyzate |
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JP2016056110A (en) * | 2014-09-05 | 2016-04-21 | ロレアル | Cosmetic composition for keratin fibers |
JP2016056112A (en) * | 2014-09-05 | 2016-04-21 | ロレアル | Cosmetic composition for keratin fibers containing polyol |
DE102014217994A1 (en) | 2014-09-09 | 2016-03-10 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Oxidation colorant with special nonionic linear silicone polymers |
DE102014222374A1 (en) * | 2014-11-03 | 2016-05-04 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | An oxidation colorant containing a combination of crosslinked, aminated siloxane polymers and nonionic surfactants |
DE102014223937A1 (en) | 2014-11-25 | 2016-05-25 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Agent for changing the color of keratinic fibers containing at least one dimeric ring-bridged azo dye |
DE102014223935A1 (en) | 2014-11-25 | 2016-05-25 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Agent for dyeing keratinic fibers, containing at least one dimeric, dicationic azo dye and at least one anionic and / or cationic surfactant |
DE102014223938A1 (en) * | 2014-11-25 | 2016-05-25 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | An agent for coloring keratinic fibers containing at least one dimeric, dicationic azo dye and at least one nonionic surfactant |
DE102014223939A1 (en) * | 2014-11-25 | 2016-05-25 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | A composition for dyeing keratinic fibers containing at least one dimeric, dicationic azo dye and at least one anionic surfactant |
DE102014223936A1 (en) * | 2014-11-25 | 2016-05-25 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Agent for dyeing keratinic fibers, containing at least one dimeric, dicationic azo dye with a special substitution pattern |
JP6847570B2 (en) | 2014-12-16 | 2021-03-24 | ロレアル | O / W emulsion type composition |
DE102014226177A1 (en) * | 2014-12-17 | 2016-06-23 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Method for preserving the color of dyed and / or brightened keratinic fibers |
DE102016209468A1 (en) * | 2016-05-31 | 2017-11-30 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Hair-sparing agents and methods of oxidative hair dyeing or bleaching with selected dicarboxylic acids |
DE102015223854A1 (en) * | 2015-12-01 | 2017-06-08 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Powerful hair treatment products with structurally strengthening effect |
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US6315989B1 (en) * | 1999-12-22 | 2001-11-13 | Revlon Consumer Products Corporation | Water in oil microemulsion peroxide compositions for use in coloring hair and related methods |
AU2002301803B2 (en) | 2001-11-08 | 2004-09-09 | L'oreal | Cosmetic compositions containing an aminosilicone and a conditioner, and uses thereof |
FR2831803B1 (en) | 2001-11-08 | 2004-07-30 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING AN AMINO SILICONE AND A THICKENING AGENT AND THEIR USES |
DE102004030886A1 (en) | 2004-06-25 | 2006-02-09 | Henkel Kgaa | Hair conditioning agents with amino-functional silicones |
US7431742B2 (en) * | 2006-04-28 | 2008-10-07 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Hair coloring kits and methods of use thereof |
DE102006052729A1 (en) * | 2006-11-08 | 2008-05-15 | Wacker Chemie Ag | Process for the preparation of aqueous dispersions of organopolysiloxanes |
DE102009027678A1 (en) * | 2009-07-14 | 2010-05-06 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Agent, useful to modify the color of keratin fibers, preferably human hairs, comprises color-modifying component, combination of amino-functionalized silicones, amphoteric-copolymer, -surfactant, and oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier |
DE102011079911A1 (en) * | 2011-07-27 | 2013-01-31 | Wacker Chemie Ag | Cosmetic compositions |
DE102011087621A1 (en) * | 2011-12-02 | 2013-06-06 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Hair treatment agent with 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone (s) and thickener (s) |
-
2012
- 2012-12-19 DE DE102012223803.4A patent/DE102012223803A1/en not_active Withdrawn
-
2013
- 2013-11-15 EP EP13792001.3A patent/EP2934683A2/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2013-11-15 WO PCT/EP2013/073938 patent/WO2014095178A2/en active Application Filing
- 2013-12-18 US US14/132,109 patent/US8778032B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Non-Patent Citations (2)
Title |
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None * |
See also references of WO2014095178A2 * |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
WO2014095178A2 (en) | 2014-06-26 |
WO2014095178A3 (en) | 2014-11-20 |
US8778032B2 (en) | 2014-07-15 |
DE102012223803A1 (en) | 2014-06-26 |
US20140165301A1 (en) | 2014-06-19 |
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