EP2919743A2

EP2919743A2 - Bleaching agents

Info

Publication number: EP2919743A2
Application number: EP13776487.4A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Jürgen SCHÖPGENS; Frank Janssen; Bernd Anderheggen
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2012-11-14
Filing date: 2013-10-14
Publication date: 2015-09-23
Also published as: US20150238391A1; WO2014075861A3; DE102012220807A1; WO2014075861A2

Abstract

Solid cosmetic agents, which contain a) at least one liquid fatty substance a), b) at least one powdery organic carrier material b), c) at least one active cosmetic ingredient c) that is different from a) and b), characterized in that the fatty substance a) and the powdery organic carrier material b) are in the form of a powdery aggregate A, wherein the proportion by weight of the fatty substance a) relative to the total weight of this powdery aggregate A is higher than the proportion by weight of the fatty substance a) relative to the total weight of the solid cosmetic agent, are characterized by an above-average hair care effect in the bleaching of keratin fibers.

Description

"Bleaching"

The present application relates to a solid cosmetic agent, in particular an agent for brightening or bleaching keratinic fibers, preferably human hair. The cosmetic agent is characterized by a content of fatty substances and carrier materials. This allows efficient whitening results with reduced hair damage and reduced scalp irritation.

Changing the shape and color of the hair is an important area of modern cosmetics. This allows the hair's appearance to be adapted to current fashion trends as well as to the individual wishes of the individual. The basics of the bleaching processes are known to those skilled in the art and described in relevant monographs.

For bleaching human hair, solid or paste-like preparations with solid oxidizing agents are usually mixed with a dilute hydrogen peroxide solution immediately before use. This mixture is then applied to the hair and rinsed again after a certain exposure time. The duration of exposure to the hair to achieve complete lightening is between about 30 and 60 minutes. It is obvious that users of these bleaching agents have a need to reduce this exposure time. In order to achieve a sufficient Blondierwirkung, such agents are usually adjusted strongly alkaline, the pH is between 9 and 1 1, 5. Such high pH values are required to ensure an opening of the outer cuticle (cuticle), thus allowing penetration of the active species (hydrogen peroxide) into the hair.

However, at the same time as bleaching, the use of oxidizing agents and the alkaline pH result in damage to the hair structure and hair surface. The hair becomes brittle, its elasticity decreases and the combability decreases. The spreading of the outer cuticle layer also leads to an unpleasant surface sensation of the hair and thus to a deteriorated combability in the wet and dry state. Furthermore, alkalizing agents and oxidizing agents can cause irritation and irritation of the scalp, especially in the case of sensitive users. This provides the consumer with a increased need to use additional conditioning or nourishing aftertreatment agents.

Under the aggressive conditions (strong oxidizing agents, high pH) of the lightening preparation and the usual in the art cream preparations (usually pH> 1 1), the care agents used are usually not sufficiently stable. Therefore, bleaching step and conditioner usually have to be done sequentially. For reasons of ease of use, however, a single-stage bleaching, which already contains appropriate care products, is particularly advantageous. Therefore, there is a need for bleaching agents that result in the addition of stable care components in the application preparation to a reduced hair damage and reduced scalp irritation.

The German patent application DE 10 2009 054 763 A1 teaches the use of nonionic surfactants and ester oils to improve the care effect of Blondiermitteln.

German patent application DE 42 07 475 A1 describes bleaching agents which, in addition to a starch powder, additionally contain a fatty substance in order to reduce the formation of dust during manufacture and use. The technical solutions outlined in these documents are still in need of improvement.

The object of the present invention is therefore to reduce the above-mentioned disadvantages of oxidative brightening and / or bleaching agents for human hair. The lightening agents are intended to protect the hair and thus cause a reduced damage to the hair. In particular, the hair should be given increased elasticity and smoothness and improved shine by the means. Furthermore, scalp irritations are to be reduced. However, the reduction of hair damage during whitening should not be achieved at the expense of reduced brightening performance of the agents.

It has been found that by using carrier-bound fatty substances in bleaching agents whose hair damaging effect can be significantly reduced.

A first subject of the invention is therefore a solid cosmetic containing

a) at least one fatty substance a) with a melting point below 20 Ό

b) at least one pulverulent organic carrier material b)

c) at least one of a) and b) different cosmetic active ingredient c), characterized in that the fatty substance a) and the powdery organic carrier material b) are present in the form of a powdery aggregate A, wherein the weight fraction of the fatty substance a) on the total weight of this powdery aggregate A is higher than the proportion by weight of the fatty substance a) on the total weight of the solid cosmetic product.

The solid cosmetic agent is preferably in powder form. It has proven to be advantageous for the nourishing effect of this agent to apply the largest possible proportion of the fat contained in the agent a) on the powdered organic carrier material b). Preferred solid cosmetic compositions are therefore characterized in that at least 40 wt .-%, preferably at least 60 wt .-%, preferably at least 80 wt .-%, particularly preferably at least 90 wt .-% and in particular at least 95 wt .-% of in the agent fat contained a) in the form of the powdery aggregate A. It is particularly preferred if at least 98% by weight and preferably all of the fatty substance a) present in the composition is present in the form of the powdery aggregate A.

As a first essential ingredient, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one fatty substance a) having a melting point below 20 ° C. Preferred fatty substances a) are selected from the group of oils, in particular from the group of silicone oils. The proportion by weight of the fatty substance a) in the total weight of the solid cosmetic agent is preferably from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight. %.

As natural oils triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides can be used. Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, macadam oil, Grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter. As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons.

A particularly advantageous care effect was achieved by the use of silicone oils as fatty substance a). In a preferred embodiment, the fatty substance a) is therefore selected from the group of silicones, preferably from the group of dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, the dimethicones, which include the cyclemethicones, the dimethiconols, the dimethicone copolyols and the amino-functional silicones. The dimethicones preferred according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Sil):

(SiR ¹ ₃ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (Sil)

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Preferably, the radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently a methyl radical or a phenyl radical. The number x stands for a value of 10 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10000000 D. Preference is given in particular silicones with the INCI name phenyl trimethicone.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Sil .1)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0-Si (CH ₃ ) 2] x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (Sil .1),

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Sil .2):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D.

The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI can also be used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-2)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-3)

R ₃ Si [0-SiR ₂ ] _x - (CH ₂ ) _n - [0-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR ₃ (Si-3),

in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C is alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 stands.

Another group of preferred hair care silicones are dimethiconols (Si4).

Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8 - I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (SiOH R ¹ ₂ ) (Si 4 - I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8 -:

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. Particularly preferred agents of the invention contain one or more of the in-functionalized silicones.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they have at least one on the inofunctionalized silicone of the formula (Si5-a)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0-Si (CH ₃ ) 2] n [O-Si (CH ₃ )] _m - OSi (CH ₃ ) 3 (Si-5a),

I

CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 1 50, where n preferably values of 0 to 1 999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 1 0 assumes. These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Also preferred are agents according to the invention which have at least one unfunctionalized silicone of the formula (Si-5b)

R- [Si (CH ₃₎ ₂ -0] _n1 [Si (R ') - 0] _m - [Si (CH ₃₎ ₂ -0] _n2 -S iMe ₂ R (Si-5b)

I

(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

contain, in which

R is -OH, an (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) {Ci to C ₂₀ ) -

Alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group,

R 'is -OH, a {Ci to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 1 Is 50, wherein the sum (n1 + n2) preferably takes values from 0 to 1 999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 1 0.

These silicones are referred to according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone or Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone, or as a functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone or Trideceth-9 PG-Amodimethicone.

Particular preference is given to those agents which contain at least one of the inofunctionalized silicone of the formula (Si-5b)

I

(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

contain, in which R is -OH or a -CH ₃ group,

R 'is -OH or a -CH ₃ group and

m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably being from 0 to 1,999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

Preference is furthermore given to those agents which contain at least one amino-functionalized silicone of the formula (Si-5b)

R- [Si (CH ₃₎ ₂ -0] _n1 [Si (R ') - 0] _m - [Si (CH ₃₎ ₂ -0] _n2 SiMe ₂ R (Si-5b)

I

(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

contain, in which

R is -OH or an -OCH ₃ group,

R 'is -OH or an -OCH ₃ group and

In summary, preferred cosmetic compositions contain at least one fatty substance a) from the group of silicones with the INCI names Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Amodimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone and

Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone. The cosmetic compositions particularly preferably contain as the fatty substance a) a mixture of an amino-functionalized silicone and a non-amino-functionalized silicone.

As a second essential constituent, the agents according to the invention contain a pulverulent organic carrier material. The proportion by weight of the pulverulent organic carrier material b) to the total weight of the solid cosmetic agent 0.2 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight and in particular 1, 0 to 4.0% by weight is.

Starch is particularly suitable as organic carrier material b). Solid cosmetic agents, characterized in that the pulverulent organic carrier material b) is selected from the group of starches, are preferred according to the invention. Starch is a reserve carbohydrate, which is stored by many plants in the form of starch grains, which are usually 1 to 200 μm in size, in various parts of plants, for example in tubers or roots, cereal seeds, fruits and in the marrow. A starch which can be used according to the invention can be obtained, for example, from potatoes, maize, rice, peas, acorns, chestnuts, barley, wheat, bananas, sago, millet, sorghum, oats, barley, rye, beans, sweet potatoes, maranta or manioc.

Starch belongs to the family of homoglycans and is a polycondensation product of D-glucose. In this case, starch consists of three structurally different polymers of d-glucopyranose, namely amylose, amylopectin and a so-called intermediate fraction. Higher plants contain 0 to 45 wt .-% amylose based on the dry matter. The intermediate fraction, also referred to as abnormal amylopectin, is structurally related between the amylose and the amylopectin.

For the purposes of this application, the term "aggregate" refers to a combination of fatty substance a) and carrier material b) based on absorption and / or adsorption. %, in particular 1, 0 to 8.0 wt .-%.

For production and use of cosmetic agents according to the invention and for the care effect achieved, it has proved to be advantageous to use the fatty substance a) and the organic carrier material b) in specific weight ratios. Cosmetic compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the weight ratio of liquid fatty substance a) to powdered organic carrier material b) in the powdery aggregate A is 2: 1 to 1:20, preferably 1: 1 to 1: 12 and in particular 1: 2 to 1: 8.

As a further essential ingredient, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one of the fatty substance a) and the carrier material b) different cosmetic active ingredient e). As stated at the outset, the compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for gentle hair bleaching. Preferred cosmetic active ingredients c) are therefore selected from the group of constituents which are typical for hair bleaches, in particular from the group of bleaches, the alkali carriers, the complexing agents and the surfactants.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise as cosmetic active ingredient c) as bleaching-force enhancer at least one persulfate salt, preferably from the group potassium peroxodisulfate, Sodium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate. Furthermore, it has proven to be particularly preferred in the work of the present invention, when the bleaching powder m at least two different peroxodisulfates. Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are combinations of ammonium peroxodisulfate and potassium peroxodisulfate and / or sodium peroxodisulfate. Preferred cosmetic agents contain 10 to 60 wt .-%, preferably 15 to 55 wt .-% and in particular 20 to 50 wt .-% of an oxidizing agent, preferably a persulfate.

To further increase the whitening power, at least one optionally hydrated Si0 ₂ compound may be added to the compositions according to the invention. As a result, the brightening power can be significantly increased. Preferred optionally hydrated SiO ₂ compounds are silicic acids, their oligomers and polymers and their salts, in particular sodium salts, and water glasses which are formed from a silicate of the formula (SiO ₂ ) n (Na ₂ O) _m (K ₂ O) p, where n stands for a positive rational number and m and p stand independently for a positive rational number or for 0, with the provisos that at least one of the parameters m or p is different from 0 and the ratio between n and the sum of m and p is between 1: 4 and 4: 1. Metasilicates which are distinguished according to the above formula by the ratio between n and the sum of m and p of <1 and can be regarded as chain-like polymeric structures of the anion [Si0 ₃ ] ^{2 "} can preferably be used. NaSi0 _3] _x, is particularly preferred particularly preferred bleaching powder, however, additionally contain at least silicon dioxide (silica; silica gel).. preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they are based on their total weight, 10 to 60 wt .-%, preferably 15 to 55 weight .-% and in particular 20 to 50 wt .-% of a silicate.

Preferred cosmetic agents additionally contain a solid alkalizing agent. Useful alkalizing agents are selected from inorganic salts, in particular the alkali and alkaline earth metals, and solid, organic alkalizing agents, in particular basic amino acids. The inventively preferred inorganic alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate and mixtures thereof. The cosmetic agent contains the solid alkalizing agent preferably in amounts of 0.2 to 25 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition It has proved to be advantageous according to the invention to formulate the cosmetic anhydrous. Anhydrous in the sense of the present invention means a water content based on the cosmetic agent of less than 5 wt .-%, in particular of less than 2 wt .-%. Cosmetic compositions containing less than 0.1% by weight of water may be very particularly preferred according to the invention.

The composition of some preferred solid cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be seen from the following tables (data in% by weight based on the

Total weight of the solid cosmetic product).

These agents are characterized in that

the liquid fatty substance a) and the pulverulent organic carrier material b) are present in the form of a powdery aggregate A, wherein the weight fraction of the liquid fatty substance a) on the total weight of this powdery aggregate A is higher than the weight fraction of the liquid fatty substance a) on the total weight of the solid cosmetic agent .

at least 40 wt .-%, preferably at least 60 wt .-%, preferably at least 80 wt .-%, more preferably at least 90 wt .-% and in particular at least 95 wt .-% of the liquid fatty substance contained in the agent a) in the form of the powdery aggregate A are present.

Formula 1 1 Formula 12 Formula 13 Formula 14 Formula 15

Liquid fatty substance a) 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 1.0, 0.1 to 1.0 Starch 0.2 to 10 0.2 to 1.0 0.5 to 6.0 0.5 to 6.0 1.0 to 4.0

Persulfate 10 to 60 15 to 55 15 to 55 20 to 50 20 to 50

The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for lightening human hair. Particularly effective brightening agents are characterized in that they additionally comprise at least one oxidation preparation in addition to the above-described solid cosmetic agent. A further subject of the present application is therefore a cosmetic comprising

A) a solid cosmetic containing

a) at least one fatty substance a) with a melting point below 20 Ό b) at least one powdered organic carrier material b) c) at least one of a) and b) different cosmetic active ingredient c), characterized in that the liquid fatty substance a) and the powdered organic carrier material b) are present in the form of a pulverulent aggregate A, wherein the weight fraction of the liquid fatty substance a) on the total weight of this powdery aggregate A is higher than the weight fraction of the liquid fatty substance a) on the total weight of the solid cosmetic agent A);

B) an oxidation preparation containing

a) a liquid cosmetic carrier

b) hydrogen peroxide

c) at least one surfactant, preferably at least one nonionic surfactant.

A liquid cosmetic vehicle is watery or alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic. Aqueous-alcoholic carriers are to be understood as meaning water-containing compositions which contain from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 alcohol, based on the total weight of the oxidation preparation, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents such as 4-methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. An aqueous carrier preferably contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the oxidation preparation. For the purpose of hair lightening and / or bleaching, such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or even surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as, for example, shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair. Preferred carriers are emulsions and gels, with emulsions being particularly preferred.

The oxidation preparation contains hydrogen peroxide as the oxidizing agent. Hydrogen peroxide can be present as an aqueous solution or in the form of one of its addition products of organic or inorganic compounds. Preferred addition products are the addition products of hydrogen peroxide to urea, melamine and sodium borate. However, hydrogen peroxide in the form of an aqueous solution is preferably used as the oxidizing agent. The amount of hydrogen peroxide in the oxidizing agent preparation is preferably from 3 to 25% by weight, preferably from 6 to 20% by weight (calculated as 100% H ₂ O ₂ ), in each case based on the total weight of the oxidation preparation.

As a further essential ingredient, the oxidation preparation contains a surfactant, preferably a nonionic surfactant, in particular at least one ethoxylated fatty alcohol having 10 to 30 ethylene oxide units. According to the invention, this is to be understood as meaning an addition product of ethylene oxide onto a fatty alcohol. Fatty alcohols are saturated and unsaturated alcohols having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched. The molar amount of ethylene oxide used per mole of fatty alcohol is understood to mean the degree of ethoxylation. In particular, ethylene oxide addition products of octyl alcohol (capryl alcohol), nonyl alcohol (pelargonyl alcohol), undecyl alcohol, undec-10-en-1-ol, dodecyl alcohol (lauryl alcohol), 2,6,8-trimethyl-4 are suitable as nonionic surfactant. nonanol (isobutyl alcohol), tridecyl alcohol, tetradecyl alcohol (myristyl alcohol) (9E) octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z, 12Z) octadeca-9,12-diene-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z, 12Z, 15Z) octadeca- 9, 12,15-triene-1-ol (linolenyl alcohol), nonadecan-1-ol (nonadecyl alcohol), eicosan-1-ol (eicosyl alcohol / arachyl alcohol), (9Z) -eicos-9-en-1-ol (gadoleyl alcohol), (5Z, 8Z, 1 1Z, 14Z) - Eicosa-5,8,11,14-tetraene-1-ol (arachidonic alcohol), heneicosyl alcohol, docosyl alcohol (behenyl alcohol), (13Z) -docos-13-en-1-ol (erucyl alcohol) or (13E) -docosene 1 -ol (brassidyl alcohol). It is also possible according to the invention to use mixtures of fatty alcohols which are obtained by specific mixing or by recovery processes as such. Examples are coconut oil (mixture of C ₈ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohols) or cetearyl alcohol (1: 1 mixture of C ₆ - and C ₁₈ fatty alcohols).

Particular preference is given to degrees of ethoxylation of from 15 to 25. Particularly preferred ethoxylated fatty alcohols are laureth-20, steareth-20, steareth-16, steareth-25, ceteth-20, ceteth-16, ceteth-15, ceteth-24, ceteth-25, Ceteareth-20, ceteareth-23, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, oleth-20, oleth-15 and oleth-16, more preferably ceteareth-20.

The proportion of surfactants, preferably of the nonionic surfactant, in particular of the ethoxylated fatty alcohol with 10 to 30 ethylene oxide units in the total weight of the oxidation preparation, is preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight and preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight.

In order to prevent a premature, undesired reaction of the ingredients with one another, the ingredients of the solid cosmetic agent A) and the oxidation preparation B) are expediently prepared separately from each other and brought into contact only immediately before use.

A second subject of the present invention is therefore an application-ready agent C) for lightening human hair, which is characterized in that it is prepared by mixing the solid cosmetic agent A) and the oxidation preparation B).

The amount of hydrogen peroxide as oxidant in the ready-to-use agent C) is preferably from 1 to 12% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 8% by weight (calculated as 100% H ₂ O ₂ ), in each case based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent C).

The following tables disclose the composition of some preferred cosmetics comprising

A) solid cosmetic compositions containing

a) at least one fatty substance a) having a melting point below 20 Ό b) at least one pulverulent organic carrier material b) c) at least one of a) and b) different cosmetic active ingredient c), B) an oxidation preparation containing

a) a liquid cosmetic carrier

b) hydrogen peroxide

c) at least one surfactant, preferably at least one nonionic surfactant. These cosmetics are characterized in that

the liquid fatty substance a) and the pulverulent organic carrier material b) are present in the form of a powdery aggregate A, wherein the weight fraction of the liquid fatty substance a) on the total weight of this powdery aggregate A is higher than the weight fraction of the liquid fatty substance a) on the total weight of the solid cosmetic agent A)

at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, particularly preferably at least 90% by weight and in particular at least 95% by weight of the liquid fatty substance contained in the agent A) a) in the form of the powdery aggregate A.

(Data in wt .-% based on the total weight of the solid cosmetic agent A) or the oxidation preparation B)).

Formula 26 Formula 27 Formula 28 Formula 29 Formula 30 Solid Cosmetic Agent A)

Liquid fatty substance a) 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 1.0, 0.1 to 1.0

Powdery org. 0.2 to 10 0.2 to 1.0 0.5 to 6.0 0.5 to 6.0 1.0 to 4.0 carrier material b)

Persulfate 10 to 60 15 to 55 15 to 55 20 to 50 20 to 50

Oxidation preparation B)

Hydrogen peroxide 3 to 25 3 to 25 6 to 20 6 to 20 6 to 20

Surfactant 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 0.5 to 3.0 0.5 to 3.0

Formula 31 Formula 32 Formula 33 Formula 34 Formula 35 solid cosmetic agent A)

Silicone 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 1.0, 0.1 to 1.0

Persulfate 10 to 60 15 to 55 15 to 55 20 to 50 20 to 50

Oxidation preparation B) Hydrogen peroxide 3 to 25 3 to 25 6 to 20 6 to 20 6 to 20

Surfactant 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 0.5 to 3.0 0.5 to 3.0

Formula 36 Formula 37 Formula 38 Formula 39 Formula 40 solid cosmetic agent A)

Starch 0.2 to 10 0.2 to 1.0 0.5 to 6.0 0.5 to 6.0 1.0 to 4.0

Persulfate 10 to 60 15 to 55 15 to 55 20 to 50 20 to 50

Oxidation preparation B)

Hydrogen peroxide 3 to 25 3 to 25 6 to 20 6 to 20 6 to 20

Surfactant 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 0.5 to 3.0 0.5 to 3.0

Formula 41 Formula 42 Formula 43 Formula 44 Formula 45 solid cosmetic agent A)

Silicone 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 1.0, 0.1 to 1.0

Starch 0.2 to 10 0.2 to 1.0 0.5 to 6.0 0.5 to 6.0 1.0 to 4.0

Persulfate 10 to 60 15 to 55 15 to 55 20 to 50 20 to 50

Oxidation preparation B)

Hydrogen peroxide 3 to 25 3 to 25 6 to 20 6 to 20 6 to 20

Surfactant 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 0.5 to 3.0 0.5 to 3.0

Formula 46 Formula 47 Formula 48 Formula 49 Formula 50 solid cosmetic agent A)

Silicone 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 2.0 0.1 to 1.0, 0.1 to 1.0

Starch 0.2 to 10 0.2 to 1.0 0.5 to 6.0 0.5 to 6.0 1.0 to 4.0

Persulfate 10 to 60 15 to 55 15 to 55 20 to 50 20 to 50

Silicate 10 to 60 15 to 55 15 to 55 20 to 50 20 to 50

Oxidation preparation B)

Hydrogen peroxide 3 to 25 3 to 25 6 to 20 6 to 20 6 to 20

Surfactant 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 0.1 to 5.0 0.5 to 3.0 0.5 to 3.0

For the cosmetic effect of the compositions according to the invention, it has proved to be advantageous if the solid cosmetic agent A) and / or the oxidation preparation B) contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent. Customary and preferred chelating agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, polycarboxylic acids, nitrogen containing mono- or polycarboxylic acids, in particular ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), geminal diphosphonic acids, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), aminophosphonic acids such as ethylenediaminetetra (methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP) , Diethylenetriaminepenta- (methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), phosphonopolycarboxylic acids such as 2-phosphonobutane-1, 2,4-tricarboxylic acid and cyclodextrins, alkali stannates (sodium stannate), alkali pyrophosphates (tetra sodium pyrophosphate, disodium pyrophosphate), alkali phosphates (sodium phosphate), and phosphoric acid. According to the invention, the solid cosmetic agent A) or the oxidation preparation B) preferably contains complexing agents at from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, in each case based on their respective total weight.

The agents according to the invention may furthermore comprise at least one substantive dye. In principle, there are no limits to the choice of substantive dyes. Direct-acting dyes which can be used according to the invention are nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Direct dyes are usually subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes. However, it is particularly advantageous according to the invention if the substantive dyes have sufficient stability against the harsh conditions of the bleaching process.

Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those under the names Acid Yellow

I, Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52 and tetrabromophenol blue known compounds. Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems which are substituted by a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 and HC Blue 16, as well as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51. Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red

II, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 1 1, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, and 1, 4-Diamino 2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4- Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2- Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

Preferably, the direct-dyeing agent comprises at least one anionic substantive dye selected from bromophenol blue, tetrabromophenol blue and / or from the group of fluorescent dyes Acid Red 92 (also D & C RED No. 28 or phloxine B), Acid Red 98, Acid Red 94 , Acid Red 87, or Acid Red 51, and / or at least one neutral, direct-acting dye selected from 4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow 6), 1-Chloro-2,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 10), 1-chloro-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 12) and 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow 13).

Dye combinations preferred according to the invention are those which contain at least the combination of tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 92; Tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 98; Tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 94; Tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 87; or tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 51; contain. Particularly preferred according to the invention are agents which contain at least one dye combination of tetrabromophenol blue and Acid Red 92.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention if the total amount of substantive dyes in the ready-to-use agent is from 0.0001 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent C).

Furthermore, the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, associative polymers with fatty alkyl chain, cationic polymers, nonionic polymers (vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes); zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers (acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers and octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers); anionic polymers (polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers) ; Thickening agents (agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, eg methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose , Amylopectin and dextrins, clays such as bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol); hair conditioning compounds (phospholipids such as soybean lecithin, egg lecithin, cephalins and silicone oils); Protein hydrolysates of plant or animal origin (elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolysates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolysates); Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure-improving active ingredients (mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid); Defoamers such as silicones (dimethicone); Dyes for staining the agent; Anti-dandruff agents (Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole); Sunscreens (derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines); Active substances (pantolactone, allanine, pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts and bisabolol); Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, in particular those of groups A, B ₃ , B ₅ , B ₆ , C, E, F and H; Plant extracts (from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, litchi, wheat, kiwi , Melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, moringa, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger); Cholesterol; Bodying agents (sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers); Fats and waxes (fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins); Swelling and penetration substances (glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates); Opacifiers (latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers); Pearlescing agents (ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate); Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ and air; Antioxidants.

The selection of these further substances will be made by the person skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the preparations. The preparations preferably contain the further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives in amounts of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent C).

The bleaching preparations preferably have a pH in the range from 7 to 12, preferably a pH in the range from 8.0 to 11.5. The pH values for the purposes of the present invention are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 °.

A second object of the present application is a process for producing a solid cosmetic containing

a) at least one liquid fatty substance a) b) at least one pulverulent organic carrier material b)

c) at least one of a) and b) different cosmetic active ingredient c), characterized in that

i) a powdered aggregate A comprising at least one liquid fatty substance a) and at least pulverulent organic carrier material b) is provided; and ii) the aggregate A from step i) is mixed with at least one cosmetic active ingredient c).

Another object of the present invention is the use of a composition according to the invention for the lightening of human hair.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention and the use according to the invention, what has been said about the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

B e i s p e e l e

The amounts in the examples are, unless otherwise stated, in percent by weight. The following preparations were prepared:

2 bleaching powder (B) (in% by weight)

Raw material B1 B2

Potassium peroxodisulfate 32.0 32.0

Ammonium peroxodisulfate (incl. 0.5% silica) 10.0 10.0

Silica, hydrophilic 0.4 0.4

Sodium metasilicate 36.0 36.0

Portil N - -

Sodium hexametaphosphate 0.2 0.2

Rohagite S hv 1, 0 1, 0

EDTA, Na ₂ salt 0.6 0.6

Celquat L200 0.3 0.3

Glycine 0.6 0.6

Paraffin Liquidum 3.8 3.8

DC XX-4820 Powder 4,0 -

Dimethicone, dimethiconol - 1, 5

Magensium carbonate ad 100 ad 100 Raw materials: Eumulgade F (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Castor Oil, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate); Portil N (INCI name: Sodium Silicate; Cognis); Rohagit S hv (INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer; Evonik); Celquat L200 (INCI name: Polyquaternium-4, National Starch); DC XX-4820 powder (16% by weight silicone on starch carrier).

By mixing the preparations A and B1 in a ratio of 2: 1, the bleaching agent C1 according to the invention was obtained. To prepare the bleaching agent C2, the preparations A and B2 were mixed together in a ratio of 2: 1.

To assess the wet combability, 12 strands of hair (Kerling 6/0) were first cleaned with a 3% aqueous surfactant solution and stored for 24 hours at 25 ° C and 25% humidity and then for 45 minutes at 35 ° C with 4g the bleaching agent C1 or C2 treated.

Following treatment with bleaching agents C1 and C2, the strands were rinsed under standard conditions with water (32 ° C water temperature, 0.5 l / min). The strands were then automatically combed ten times each time, determining the work to be done. The averaged measurement results can be found in the following table.

Expensive work [mJ]

C1 704

C2 798

Claims

claims

1 . Solid cosmetic containing

a) at least one fatty substance a) with a melting point below 20 Ό

b) at least one pulverulent organic carrier material b)

c) at least one of a) and b) different cosmetic active ingredient c), characterized in that the liquid fatty substance a) and the powdery organic carrier material b) are present in the form of a powdery aggregate A, wherein the weight fraction of the liquid fatty substance a) in the total weight this powdery aggregate A is higher than the weight fraction of the liquid fatty substance a) on the total weight of the solid cosmetic product.

2. A solid cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that at least 40 wt .-%, preferably at least 60 wt .-%, preferably at least 80 wt .-%, particularly preferably at least 90 wt .-% and in particular at least 95 wt. -% of liquid fat contained in the agent a) in the form of the powdery aggregate A.

3. Solid cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance a) is selected from the group of silicones.

4. Solid cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight fraction of the fatty substance a) in the total weight of the solid cosmetic agent 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 2.0 parts by weight. % and in particular 0.1 to 1, 0 wt .-% is.

5. Solid cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the powdery organic carrier material b) is selected from the group of starches.

6. Solid cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight fraction of the powdery organic carrier material b) in the total weight of the solid cosmetic agent 0.2 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 6.0 parts by weight. % and in particular 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-% is.

7. Solid cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight proportion of the powdery aggregate A in the total weight of the solid cosmetic agent is 0, 5 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 1, 0 to 8.0 wt .-% ,

8. Solid cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid cosmetic agent, based on its total weight, 10 to 60 wt .-%, preferably 15 to 55 wt .-% and in particular 20 to 50 wt .-% an oxidation agent, preferably a persulfate.

9. Solid cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid cosmetic agent, based on its total weight, 10 to 60 wt .-%, preferably 15 to 55 wt .-% and in particular 20 to 50 wt .-% of a silicate.

10. A process for the preparation of a solid cosmetic containing

a) at least one fatty substance a) with a melting point below 20 Ό

b) at least one pulverulent organic carrier material b)

iii) a powdered aggregate A comprising at least one liquid fatty substance a) and at least pulverulent organic carrier material b) is provided; and iv) the aggregate A from step i) is mixed with at least one cosmetic active ingredient c).