EP2900335A1

EP2900335A1 - Process for protecting the colour of a textile material with an oil-in-water emulsion containing a mixture of alkylpolyglycoside and fatty alcohol and an associative nonionic polyurethane polyether

Info

Publication number: EP2900335A1
Application number: EP13756376.3A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Khaled BOULEMDARAT; Lionel Aubert; Gaétane DAVID
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2012-09-27
Filing date: 2013-08-23
Publication date: 2015-08-05
Anticipated expiration: 2033-08-23
Also published as: WO2014048647A1; MX361869B; PL2900335T3; ES2625068T3; BR112015006811B1; FR2995914B1; MX2015002028A; EP2900335B1; BR112015006811A2; RU2015115647A; FR2995914A1; RU2692849C2

Abstract

A first subject of the present invention is thus a process for protecting the colour of a coloured textile material, characterized in that at least one oil-in-water emulsion is applied to the surface of the said textile, this emulsion containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: (A) at least a mixture comprising at least one alkylpolyglycoside whose alkyl chain is linear or branchedand comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one linear or branched fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; (C) at least one associative nonionic polyurethane polyether. A second subject of the present invention is the use of a composition as defined above as an agent for reducing or eliminating the fading of the colour of a coloured textile material in contact with a composition comprising at least one antiperspirant active agent.

Description

PROCESS FOR PROTECTING THE COLOUR OF A TEXTILE MATERIAL WITH AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION CONTAINING A MIXTURE OF ALKYLPOLYGLYCOSIDE AND FATTY ALCOHOL AND AN ASSOCIATIVE NONIONIC POLYURETHANE POLYETHER

A first subject of the present invention is thus a process for protecting the colour of a coloured textile material, characterized in that at least one oil-in-water emulsion is applied to the surface of the said textile, this emulsion containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

(A) at least a mixture comprising at least one alkylpolyglycoside whose alkyl chain is linear or branched and comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one linear or branched fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; (C) at least one associative nonionic polyurethane polyether. A second subject of the present invention is the use of a composition as defined above as an agent for reducing or eliminating the fading of the colour of a coloured textile material in contact with a composition comprising at least one antiperspirant active agent. In the cosmetic field, it is well known to use antiperspirant products in topical application to control the flow of sweat, to reduce the sensation of moisture on the skin associated with human sweat, and to mask human sweat.

Many different types of antiperspirant composition have been described in the literature and have appeared on the market in forms such as gels, sticks, creams, roll-ons or aerosols.

They generally contain aluminium salts or complexes as antiperspirant active agents. These active agents are the ones most commonly used as antiperspirant active agents. The principle of action of these active agents is considered to be the formation of a gel in the sweat duct. This gel creates a plug that partially blocks the sweat pores. The flow of sweat is thus reduced. These aluminium salts also have intrinsic efficacy since they are antibacterial agents. They thus also play a direct role on the deodorant efficacy by reducing the number of bacteria responsible for the degradation of sweat.

The antiperspirant products currently on the market have a tendency, when applied to the armpits, to come into contact with items of clothing, which are generally dyed, and to fade their original colour after machine washing and ironing.

Antiperspirant-product consumers are thus in need of a suitable formulation, which may contain antiperspirant active agents and which makes it possible to preserve the colour of coloured textiles after multiple applications to the surface of the skin and multiple machine washing and ironing.

Patent applications WO 92/06778, WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610 disclose emulsifying systems consisting of mixtures of alkylpolyglucosides and of fatty alcohols, for obtaining oil-in-water emulsions which may contain a very wide range of active agents and especially deodorant active agents. These glucolipid emulsifying agents have the advantage of being compatible in all types of fatty phase and also in strongly acidic aqueous media in particular comprising antiperspirant salts. They make it possible to obtain emulsions in a wide texture range, from richness to evanescence with variable, fluid or creamy consistencies.

Antiperspirant formulations of the oil-in-water emulsion type are also known from patent EP 1 550 435, these formulations containing

(B) at least a mixture comprising at least one alkylpolyglycoside whose alkyl chain is linear or branched and comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one linear or branched fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms;

(C) at least one associative nonionic polyurethane polyether.

The Applicant has discovered, unexpectedly, that this type of oil-in-water emulsion makes it possible to preserve the colour of coloured textiles after multiple applications to the surface of the skin and multiple machine washing and ironing.

This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.

(A) at least a mixture comprising at least one alkylpolyglycoside whose alkyl chain is linear or branched and comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one linear or branched fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; (C) at least one associative nonionic polyurethane polyether.

A second subject of the present invention is the use of a composition as defined above as an agent for reducing or eliminating the fading of the colour of a coloured textile material in contact with a composition comprising at least one antiperspirant active agent.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means a medium that is suitable for the topical administration of a composition. A physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically or dernnatologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium which is devoid of unpleasant odour or appearance and which is entirely compatible with the topical administration route. In the present case, where the composition is intended for topical administration, that is to say for administration by application at the surface of the keratinous substance under consideration, such a medium is considered in particular to be physiologically acceptable when it does not cause stinging, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user.

The expression "antiperspirant active agent" means any aluminium salt or complex which, by itself, has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat, of reducing the sensation on the skin of moisture associated with human sweat and of masking human sweat. The term "oil-in-water emulsion" means a composition comprising a continuous aqueous phase and an fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous phase; the two phases being stabilized by an emulsifying system. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymers" means hydrophilic polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.

The term "hydrophobic group" is understood to mean a radical or polymer comprising a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain. When the hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical, it comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound.

By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or else from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as Steareth-100. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.

TEXTILE MATERIALS

The term "coloured textile material" means any material that can be woven and dyed according to the known dyeing techniques. It denotes a material that can be divided into fibres or filaments, such as cotton, wool, hemp or flax (organic textiles) or synthetic fibres made of synthetic polymer.

Among the textile materials made of synthetic fibres, mention may be made of polyamides such as Nylon®, polyesters, chlorofibres derived from polyvinyl chloride, for instance Rhovil®, acrylics, vinyl celluloses such as cellulose acetate, and elastomeric thermoplastic polyurethanes such as Lycra®.

ALKYLPOLYGLUCOSIDE/FATTY ALCOHOL MIXTURE

The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least a mixture of: a) at least one alkylpolyglycoside in which the alkyl chain is linear or branched and comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and

b) at least one linear or branched fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. This mixture behaves in the composition like an emulsifying agent.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "alkylpolyglycoside" means an alkylmonosaccharide (degree of polymerization 1 ) or an alkylpolyglycoside (degree of polymerization greater than 1 ). Preferentially, the fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside emulsifying mixture contains: (a) from 5% to 60% by weight of alkylpolyglycoside(s);

(b) from 95% to 40% by weight of fatty alcohol(s) relative to the total weight of the said emulsifying mixture. The alkylpolyglycosides may be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkylpolyglycosides. They generally correspond to the following structure:

R(O)(G)_x in which the radical R is a linear or branched C12-C22 alkyl radical, G is a saccharide residue and x ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 .05 to 2.5 and more preferentially from 1 .1 to 2.

The saccharide residue may be chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose and starch. More preferentially, the saccharide residue denotes glucose.

It should also be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkylpolyglycoside may be in a or β isomer form, in L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type.

It is, of course, possible to use mixtures of alkylpolysaccharides, which may differ from each other in the nature of the borne alkyl unit and/or the nature of the bearing polysaccharide chain.

As regards the fatty alcohols that are to be used, alone or as mixtures, in combination with the alkylpolysaccharides in the emulsifying mixtures in accordance with the invention, they may be linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin, or of natural origin, for instance alcohols derived from plant matter (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal matter (tallow, etc.). Needless to say, other long-chain alcohols may also be used, for instance ether alcohols or Guerbet alcohols. Finally, use may also be made of certain more or less long fractions of alcohols of natural origin, for instance coconut (C12 to C16) or tallow (C16 to Cis) or compounds of diol or cholesterol type.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the fatty alcohol(s) used are chosen from those containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferentially from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

As particular examples of fatty alcohols that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol, which may thus be taken alone or as mixtures.

In addition, it is particularly advantageous, according to the present invention, to use together a fatty alcohol and an alkylpolysaccharide whose alkyl part is identical to that of the selected fatty alcohol. Fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside emulsifying mixtures as defined above are known per se. They are described in patent applications WO 92/06778, WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610 and prepared according to the preparation processes indicated in those documents.

Among the fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside mixtures that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanov® or Fluidanov®, such as the following mixtures:

cetylstearyl alcohol/cocoyl glucoside - Montanov 82®

arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol/arachidyl glucoside - Montanov 802® myristyl alcohol/myristyl glucoside - Montanov 14®

cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside - Montanov 68®

Ci₄-C22 alcohol/Ci2-C2o alkylglucoside - Montanov L®

cocoyl alcohol/cocoyl glucoside - Montanov S®

isostearyl alcohol/isostearyl glucoside - Montanov WO 18®

octyldodecyl alcohol/octyldodecyl xyloside - Fluidanov 20X®.

The preferred fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside mixtures will be chosen from cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside;

Ci₄-C22 alcohol/Ci2-C2o alkyl glucoside and more particularly the C14-C22 alcohol/Ci2-C2o alkyl glucoside mixture such as the commercial product C14-C22 alcohol/Ci2-C2o alkyl glucoside - Montanov L®.

The fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside mixture is preferably present in the emulsions in accordance with the invention in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight and more preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

ASSOCIATIVE NONIONIC POLYURETHANE POLYETHER

The nonionic polyurethane polyethers according to the invention generally comprise, in their chain, both hydrophilic blocks, usually of polyoxyethylene nature, and hydrophobic blocks which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

Preferably, these polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers. The nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprising a fatty chain may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.

By extension, also included among the nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprising a hydrophobic chain are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the hydrophobic blocks via other chemical bonds.

As examples of nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprising a hydrophobic chain that may be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205® containing a urea functional group, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®.

Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210® containing a C12-C14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® containing a C18 alkyl chain, from Akzo.

The product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox. The products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas may also be used. The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention may also be chosen from those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271 , 380-389 (1993).

According to a particular form of the invention, use will be made of a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. Such polyurethane polyethers are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44®.

Aculyn 46® having the INCI name: PEG-150/Stearyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer, is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methyenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81 %).

Aculyn 44® (PEG-150/Decyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer) is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, use will be made of a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a diisocyanate. Such polyurethane polyethers are sold especially by the company Sasol Servo BV under the name SER-AD FX 1 100®, which is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 mol of ethylene oxide and of hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight-average molecular weight of 30 000 (INCI name: PEG-136/Steareth- 1001/SMDI Copolymer).

The amount of associative polyurethane polyether(s) as active material may range, for example, from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 8% by weight and better still from 1 .5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

ANTIPERSPIRANT ACTIVE AGENTS

According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions may contain at least one antiperspirant active agent.

Among the deodorant active agents that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of antiperspirant active agents or astringents. They are preferably chosen from aluminium and/or zirconium salts; complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with an amino acid, such as those described in patent US-3 792 068, commonly known as "ZAG complexes". Such complexes are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). ZAG complexes ordinarily have an Al/Zr ratio ranging from about 1 .67 to 12.5 and a metal/CI ratio ranging from about 0.73 to 1 .93. Among these products, mention may be made of aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrex GLY, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrex GLY, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate GLY and aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate GLY.

Among the aluminium salts that may be mentioned are aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium chlorohydrex, aluminium chlorohydrex PEG, aluminium chlorohydrex PG, aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium dichlorohydrex PEG, aluminium dichlorohydrex PG, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlorohydrex PEG, aluminium sesquichlorohydrex PG, alum salts, aluminium sulfate, aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate and more particularly the aluminium chlorohydrate sold by the company Reheis under the name Microdry aluminum Chlorohydrate or by the company Guilini Chemie under the name Aloxicoll PF 40. Aluminium salts and zirconium salts are for example the product sold by the company Reheis under the name Reach AZP-908-SUF®, "activated" aluminium salts, for example the product sold by the company Reheis under the name Reach 103 or by the company Westwood under the name Westchlor 200.

The deodorant active agents may also be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Triclosan®), 2,4-dichloro-2'- hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 -(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'- chlorophenyl)urea (Triclocarban®) or 3,7,1 1 -trimethyldodeca-2, 5,10-trienol (Farnesol®); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts or cetylpyridinium salts.

Among the other deodorant active agents, mention may also be made of zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate and zinc phenolsulfonate; chlorhexidine and the salts; diglycerol monocaprate, diglycerol monolaurate, glycerol monolaurate; and polyhexamethylene biguanide salts.

The deodorant active agents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion from about 0.001 % to 40% by weight and preferably in a proportion of from about 0.1 % to 25% by weight relative to the total composition. DEODORANT ACTIVE AGENTS

According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions may contain at least one deodorant active agent. The term "deodorant active agent" means any substance that is capable of reducing, masking or absorbing human body odour and in particular underarm odour.

The deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odour microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (©Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'- trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 -(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (©Triclocarban) or 3,7,1 1 -trimethyldodeca-2, 5,10-trienol (©Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1 ,3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1 ,2-decanediol (Symclariol from the company Symrise), glycerol derivatives, for instance caprylic/capric glycerides (Capmul MCM® from Abitec), glyceryl caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY® and Dermosoft GMC®, respectively from Straetmans), Polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC from Straetmans), and biguanide derivatives, for instance polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and salts thereof; 4-phenyl-4,4- dimethyl-2-butanol (Symdeo MPP® from Symrise); zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate or zinc phenolsulfonate; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid.

The deodorant active agents may be odour absorbers such as zinc ricinoleates or sodium bicarbonate; metallic or silver or silver-free zeolites, or cyclodextrins and derivatives thereof. They may also be chelating agents such as Dissolvine GL-47- S® from Akzo Nobel, EDTA and DPTA. It may also be a polyol such as glycerol or 1 ,3-propanediol (Zemea Propanediol sold by Dupont Tate and Lyle BioProducts), or an enzyme inhibitor such as triethyl citrate; or alum.

In the event of incompatibility or to stabilize them, for example, some of the active agents mentioned above may be incorporated into spherules, especially ionic or nonionic vesicles and/or nanoparticles (nanocapsules and/or nanospheres).

The deodorant active agents may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in a concentration of from 0.01 % to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

FATTY PHASE

The compositions according to the invention may contain at least one water- immiscible organic liquid phase, known as a fatty phase. This phase generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds that render the said phase water- immiscible. The said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (20-25°C). Preferentially, the water-immiscible organic liquid phase in accordance with the invention is generally constituted of at least one volatile oil and/or one non-volatile oil and optionally at least one structuring agent.

The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10⁵ Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10^"3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10^"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

The oil may be chosen from any physiologically acceptable oil and in particular cosmetically acceptable oil, especially mineral, animal, plant or synthetic oils; in particular volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.

More precisely, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functional groups. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100 000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50 000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to 30 000 mPa.s. As examples of volatile oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE10 2008 012 457 from the company Cognis.

- volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8x10^"6 m²/s) and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl- hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyl- trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane or dodecamethylpentasiloxane;

- and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (I):

where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, one or more hydrogen atoms of which can be replaced by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Mention may be made, among the oils of general formula (I), of:

3-butyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

3-propyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and

3-ethyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is, respectively, a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group. As examples of non-volatile oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or else wheatgerm oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, or squalane;

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- synthetic esters, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with Ri + R₂ > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate; alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;

- higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

- carbonates;

- acetates;

- citrates;

- fluoro oils that are optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based, for instance fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones as described in the document EP-A-847 752;

silicone-based oils, for instance non-volatile linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone-based chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2- phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and

- mixtures thereof.

STRUCTURING AGENT The compositions according to the invention comprising a fatty phase may also contain at least one agent for structuring the said fatty phase, which may preferably be chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, and mineral or organic lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof. It is understood that the amount of these compounds may be adjusted by a person skilled in the art so as not to harm the effect desired in the context of the present invention. Wax(es)

The wax is in general a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change in state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can exhibit a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular of greater than or equal to 55°C. Within the meaning of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in Standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920® by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute; it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and it is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

As illustrations of waxes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, refined sunflower wax sold under the name Sunflower Wax® by Koster Keunen, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Mention may especially be made, among these waxes, of isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference lso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1 ,1 ,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C3o_-45 alkyl dimethicone) and fluoro waxes.

The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2 792 190.

A wax that may be used is a C2o-C₄o alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.

Such a wax is especially sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company Koster Keunen.

As microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 1 14S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, the commercial products Performalene 400 Polyethylene® and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene® from New Phase Technologies, Performalene 655 Polyethylene or paraffin waxes, for instance the wax having the INCI name Microcrystalline Wax® and Synthetic Wax and sold under the trade name Microlease® by the company Sochibo; polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.

The composition according to the invention will preferably comprise a content of wax(es) ranging from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5% to 15% and more particularly from 6% to 15%.

According to a particular form of the invention, in the context of anhydrous solid compositions in stick form, use will be made of polyethylene microwaxes in the form of crystallites with an aspect ratio at least equal to 2, and with a melting point ranging from 70°C to 1 10°C and preferably from 70°C to 100°C, in order to reduce or indeed even eliminate the presence of strata in the solid composition.

These crystallites in needle form and especially the dimensions thereof may be characterized visually according to the following method. The wax is deposited on a microscope slide, which is placed on a hotplate. The slide and the wax are heated to a temperature generally at least 5°C higher than the melting point of the wax or of the mixture of waxes under consideration. At the end of melting, the liquid thus obtained and the microscope slide are allowed to cool in order to solidify. Observation of the crystallites is performed using a Leica DMLB100® optical microscope, with an objective lens selected as a function of the size of the objects to be viewed, and under polarized light. The dimensions of the crystallites are measured using image analysis software such as that sold by the company Microvision.

The crystallite polyethylene waxes in accordance with the invention preferably have an average length ranging from 5 to 10 μιτι. The term "average length" denotes the dimension given by the statistical particle size distribution at half the population, which is written as D50.

Use will be made more particularly of a mixture of Performalene 400 Polyethylene® and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene® waxes from New Phase Technologies.

Pasty compounds

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change in state, which has in the solid form an anisotropic crystal organization, and that comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound may be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound may be advantageously chosen from:

- lanolin and derivatives thereof,

- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,

- polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,

- vinyl polymers, especially:

- olefin homopolymers,

- olefin copolymers,

- hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,

- linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C8-C30 alkyl group,

- oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups,

- oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups,

- liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols,

- esters,

- mixtures thereof. Among the esters, the following are especially preferred:

- esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially such as those sold under the brand name Softisan 649® by the company Sasol,

- the arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters,

- fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof,

- pentaerythritol esters,

- non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a linear or branched C₄-C₅o dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol,

- aliphatic esters of an ester, resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid,

- polyesters resulting from the esterification, with a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, the said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as the products Risocast DA-H® and Risocast DA-L®,

- esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, such as Plandool-G®,

- mixtures thereof. Among the pasty compounds of plant origin that will preferably be chosen is a mixture of soybean sterols and of oxyethylenated (5 EO) oxypropylenated (5 PO) pentaerythritol, sold under the reference Lanolide by the company Vevy.

Lipophilic gelling agents

Mineral gelling agents

Mineral lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include optionally modified clays, for instance hectorites modified with a C10-C22 ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis.

Mention may also be made of fumed silica optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which is less than 1 μιτι. This is because it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is possible especially to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups; a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS- 530® by the company Cabot, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot.

The hydrophobic fumed silica in particular has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

Organic gelling agents

The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, for instance those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C® or Trefil E-506C® by the company Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by the company Grant Industries and SF 1204® and JK 1 13® by the company General Electric; ethyl cellulose, for instance the product sold under the name Ethocel® by the company Dow Chemical; galactomannans comprising from one to six and in particular from two to four hydroxyl groups per saccharide, substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, for instance guar gum alkylated with Ci to C6, and in particular Ci to C3, alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type, of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type, such as the products sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) type, such as the products sold under the name Kraton® by the company Shell Chemical Co., or of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, and mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by the company Penreco under the name Versagel®, for instance the mixture of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

Lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers with a weight-average molecular weight of less than 100 000, comprising a) a polymer backbone with hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one optionally functionalized pendent fatty chain and/or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain, containing from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in patent applications WO-A-02/056 847 and WO-A-02/47619, in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5 783 657.

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of fatty acid esters of dextrin, such as dextrin palmitates, especially the products sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company Chiba Flour. Silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441 , US-A-6 051 216 and US-A-5 981 680 may also be used. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families:

- polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the chain of the polymer, and/or

- polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

ADDITIVES

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from organic powders, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizers, vitamins, bactericides, preserving agents, polymers, fragrances, thickeners or suspension agents, propellants or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s). ORGANIC POWDER

According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention will also contain an organic powder. In the present application, the term "organic powder" means any solid that is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25°C).

As organic powders that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include polyamide particles and especially those sold under the Orgasol® names by the company Atochem; nylon-6,6 fibres, especially the polyamide fibres sold by Etablissements P Bonte under the name Polyamide 0.9 Dtex 0.3 mm® (INCI name: Nylon-6,6® or Polyamide-6,6) with a mean diameter of 6 μιτι, a weight of about 0.9 dtex and a length ranging from 0.3 mm to 1 .5 mm; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Polytrap®; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name Microsphere M-100® by the company Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85® by the company Wackherr; hollow polymethyl methacrylate microspheres (particle size: 6.5-10.5 μιτι) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0800® by Ganz Chemical; methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer microbeads (size: 6.5-10.5 μιτι) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0820® by Ganz Chemical or Microsponge 5640® by the company Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions; ethylene- acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name Flobeads® by the company Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and especially microspheres formed from a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate and sold under the name Expancel® by the company Kemanord Plast under the references 551 DE 12® (particle size of about 12 μιτι and mass per unit volume of 40 kg/m³), 551 DE 20® (particle size of about 30 μιτι and mass per unit volume of 65 kg/m³), 551 DE 50® (particle size of about 40 μιτι), or the microspheres sold under the name Micropearl F 80 ED® by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially of crosslinked or non-crossl inked corn, wheat or rice starch, such as the powders of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride, sold under the name Dry-Flo® by the company National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl® by the company Toshiba Silicone, especially Tospearl 240®; amino acid powders such as the lauroyllysine powder sold under the name Amihope LL-1 1® by the company Ajinomoto; particles of wax microdispersion, which preferably have mean sizes of less than 1 μιτι and especially ranging from 0.02 μιτι to 1 μιτι, and which are formed essentially from a wax or a mixture of waxes, such as the products sold under the name Aquacer® by the company Byk Cera, and especially: Aquacer 520 (mixture of synthetic and natural waxes), Aquacer 514 or 513® (polyethylene wax), Aquacer 51 1 (polymeric wax), or such as the products sold under the name Jonwax 120 by the company Johnson Polymer (mixture of polyethylene wax and paraffin wax) and under the name Ceraflour 961® by the company Byk Cera (micronized modified polyethylene wax); and mixtures thereof. THICKENERS AND SUSPENSION AGENTS

The thickeners may be chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers, such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and the Pemulens (acrylate/CI 0-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance poly(2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the trade name "Hostacerin AMPS®" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) or Simulgel 800® sold by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate/polysorbate 80/sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2- acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance Simulgel NS and Sepinov EMT 10® sold by the company SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethyl cellulose or cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose; polysaccharides and especially gums such as xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl guar gums; silicas, for instance Bentone Gel MIO® sold by the company NL Industries or Veegum Ultra® sold by the company Polyplastic.

The thickeners may also be cationic, for instance Polyquaternium-37 sold under the name Salcare SC95® (Polyquaternium-37 (and) Mineral Oil (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96® (Polyquaternium-37 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or other crosslinked cationic polymers, for instance those of the CTFA name Ethyl Acrylate/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Cationic Copolymer In Emulsion.

SUSPENSION AGENTS

In order to improve the homogeneity of the product, it is also possible to use one or more suspension agents preferably chosen from hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites. Examples that may be mentioned include the product Stearalkonium Bentonite (CTFA name) (product of reaction of bentonite and the quaternary ammonium stearalkonium chloride) such as the commercial product sold under the name Tixogel MP 250 by the company Sud Chemie Rheologicals, United Catalysts Inc. or the product Disteardimonium Hectorite (CTFA name) (product of reaction of hectorite and distearyldimonium chloride) sold under the name Bentone 38 or Bentone Gel by the company Elementis Specialities.

Other suspension agents may be used, in the present case in hydrophilic (aqueous and/or ethanolic) media. They may be cellulose, xanthan, guar, starch, locust bean or agar agar derivatives.

The suspension agents are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The amounts of these various constituents that may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for treating perspiration.

FORMULATION FORMS

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a more of less thickened cream distributed in a tube or a grid; in the form of a roll-on (conditioned in ball form) or in pressurized form such as a spray or an aerosol device and may in this regard contain the ingredients generally used in products of this type which are well known to those skilled in the art. Preferably, the composition is in the form of a roll -on.

The compositions according to the invention may also be pressurized and may be packaged in an aerosol device formed by:

(A) a container comprising an antiperspirant composition as defined previously, (B) at least one propellant and a means for dispensing the said aerosol composition.

The propellants generally used in products of this type and that are well known to those skilled in the art are, for instance, dimethyl ether (DME); volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorohydrocarbon and/or fluorohydrocarbon; among these derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company DuPont de Nemours under the names Freon® and Dymel®, and in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1 ,1 -difluoroethane sold especially under the trade name Dymel 152 A® by the company DuPont. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air may also be used as propellant. The compositions as defined previously and the propellant(s) may be in the same compartment or in different compartments in the aerosol container. According to the invention, the concentration of propellant generally varies from 5% to 95% by weight of pressurized composition, and more preferentially from 50% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the pressurized composition.

The dispensing means, which forms a part of the aerosol device, is generally formed by a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, which itself comprises a nozzle via which the aerosol composition is vapourized. The container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be made of glass, polymer or metal, optionally coated with a protective varnish coat.

The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood as meaning limits included, unless otherwise specified.

The examples that follow illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope thereof.

Examples

Examples of compositions to be made up: preparation method and application conditions

Test for measuring the colour of a fabric

Materials and apparatus used:

Square coloured fabric of dimensions: 10 cm x 10 cm

Red cotton fabric, plain weave, basis weight 217.7 g/m²

Laundry product used: Le Chat Sensitive Liquide®, amount: ~ 50 ml = 48 g Amount of composition according to the invention per fabric: 0.4 g

Colorimeter: Konica Minolta® Protocol:

A colorimetric measurement is taken on the untreated fabric by evaluating an average of three measurements per fabric. This measured value corresponds to the reference colour of the fabric.

0.4 g of composition is applied at the centre of each fabric.

Each fabric is folded into four.

The folded fabrics are placed on a perforated plate and covered with a film of cellophane.

They are incubated for 16 hours at 37°C (simulation of being worn for a day). They are machine-washed at 40°C. They are tumble-dried.

They are ironed.

A colorimetric measurement is taken and an average of three measurements per fabric is determined.

Four washing cycles are performed, and the fabrics are then exposed to light for 48 hours.

The results are expressed in the (L^*, a^*, b^*) system in which L^* represents the luminance, a^* represents the red-green axis (-a^* = green, +a^* = red) and b^* represents the yellow-blue axis (-b^* = blue, +b^* = yellow). Thus, a^* and b^* express the hue of the fabric.

For the evaluation of the change in coloration of the fabric, the important parameter is the ΔΕ^* between, respectively, the time t = 0 when the composition is applied and t = 4 cycles and 48 hours of exposure to light. The colour difference is obtained using the Hunter colour difference formula in the L^*, a^*, b^* colorimetric space:

(ΔΕ^*)² = [(ΔΙ_^*)² + (Aa^*)² + (Ab^*)²]. ΔΕ reflects the colour variation: the greater the value of ΔΕ, the more colour is modified relative to the initial colour.

It is found that composition 1 of the invention makes it possible to obtain a more stable coloration of the fabric after 4 washing cycles and then 48 hours of exposure to light.

Claims

1. Process for protecting the colour of a coloured textile material, characterized in that at least one oil-in-water emulsion is applied to the surface of the said textile, this emulsion containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

(A) at least a mixture comprising at least one alkylpolyglycoside whose alkyl chain is linear or branched and comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one linear or branched fatty alcohol containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; (B) at least one associative nonionic polyurethane polyether.

2. Process according to Claim 1 , in which the said emulsifying agent contains (a) from 5% to 60% by weight of alkylpolyglycoside(s),

(b) from 95% to 40% by weight of fatty alcohol(s) relative to the total weight of the said emulsifying mixture.

3. Process according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the alkylpolyglycoside(s) correspond to the following structure:

4. Process according to Claim 3, in which the saccharide residue G is chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose and starch.

5. Process according to Claim 4, in which the saccharide residue G denotes glucose.

6. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the fatty alcohol(s) contain from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

7. Process according to Claim 6, in which the fatty alcohol(s) are chosen, alone or as mixtures, from lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol.

8. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the alkylpolyglucoside contains an alkyl part which is identical to that of the fatty alcohol.

9. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, in which the fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside mixture is chosen from the following mixtures:

cetylstearyl alcohol/cocoyl glucoside;

arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol/arachidyl glucoside;

myristyl alcohol/myristyl glucoside;

cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside; CM-C22 alcohol/Ci2-C2o alkyl glucoside;

cocoyl alcohol/cocoyl glucoside;

isostearyl alcohol/isostearyl glucoside.

10. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, in which the fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside mixture is chosen from:

cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside;

Ci₄-C22 alcohol/Ci2-C2o alkyl glucoside and more particularly the C14-C22 alcohol/Ci2-C2o alkyl glucoside mixture.

11. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the associative nonionic polyurethane polyether comprises in its chain both hydrophilic blocks and hydrophobic blocks which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

12. Process according to Claim 1 1 , in which the associative nonionic polyurethane polyether comprises at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon- based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.

13. Process according to Claim 12, in which the associative nonionic polyurethane polyether comprises a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

14. Process according to any one of Claims 1 1 to 13, in which the associative nonionic polyurethane polyether is multiblock, in particular in triblock form.

15. Process according to Claim 14, in which the associative nonionic polyurethane polyether is in triblock form, in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups.

16. Process according to any one of Claims 1 1 to 15, in which the associative nonionic polyurethane polyether may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a diisocyanate.

17. Process according to Claim 16, in which the associative nonionic polyurethane polyether is the PEG-136/Steareth-100/SMDI copolymer.

18. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 17, in which the composition also comprises an antiperspirant active agent.

19. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 18, characterized in that it is in the form of a cream distributed in a tube or a grid; in the form of a roll-on or conditioned in pressurized form such as a spray or an aerosol, and more particularly in roll-on form.

20. Use of a composition as defined in the preceding claims, as an agent for reducing or eliminating the fading of the colour of a coloured textile material in contact with a composition comprising at least one antiperspirant active agent.