EP2822658A2 - Haarkur ohne arylierte silikone - Google Patents
Haarkur ohne arylierte silikoneInfo
- Publication number
- EP2822658A2 EP2822658A2 EP12781094.3A EP12781094A EP2822658A2 EP 2822658 A2 EP2822658 A2 EP 2822658A2 EP 12781094 A EP12781094 A EP 12781094A EP 2822658 A2 EP2822658 A2 EP 2822658A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- acid
- weight
- polyquaternium
- alcohol
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Ceased
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
- A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
- A61K8/65—Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
Definitions
- the invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing diesters of propylene glycol and protein hydrolysates in the simultaneous absence of arylated silicones and the use of these agents for hair treatment.
- EP 2025318 A1 discloses biphasic hair treatment compositions comprising silicones and propylene glycol dibenzoate. Hair treatment agents as macroscopically visible two- and multi-phase systems of this type are also described in the published patent applications EP 2025317 A1, EP 2036534 A1, EP 2022465 A1, EP 2022466 A1 and EP 2022467 A1.
- None of these publications describes macroscopically single-phase systems comprising the combination according to the invention. Rather, these writings describe macroscopically multiphase compositions for use on keratinic fibers, which must first be converted by vigorous shaking into a short-term single-phase composition. The disadvantage of these compositions is, inter alia, that the demixing process occurs immediately after quenching the Scblinins.
- the aim of the present invention is, inter alia, to provide macroscopic single-phase compositions, ie O / W emulsions, which have a uniform macroscopic macroscopic phase boundary which can not be detected macroscopically by the human eye and which therefore does not first shake before use in a short-term, that is for a few seconds to minutes stable single-phase composition must be transferred.
- compositions according to the invention have a macroscopically uniform phase which is stable even over a period of months even at very different temperatures.
- this macroscopically-looking composition is an O / W emulsion, such as milk.
- the macrospherical composition of the invention which appears as a uniform phase, may also be a nanoemulsion or a PIT emulsion. In these cases, the O / W emulsion looks clear to transparent due to the fineness of the emulsion droplets.
- the use of these combinations leads to surprisingly good properties of the treated keratinic fibers, in particular to a significantly improved gloss and increased durability of the care performance and the gloss over several hair washes away.
- the enhanced care benefits include improved combability, improved hair removal, improved elasticity, as well as significantly improved washfastness of dyed hair, as well as longer shelf life while providing better forming performance in corrugations such as water wave and perm.
- composition according to the invention is suitable, in addition to the classic cream formulations, in particular for spray application both as a non-aerosol and as an aerosol.
- spray application both as a non-aerosol and as an aerosol.
- an extremely uniform spray pattern is achieved compared to the usual products.
- the entire composition is distributed very evenly on the hair.
- a first subject of the present invention is therefore a composition which, in a cosmetic carrier in the absence of arylated silicones for the treatment of keratinic fibers, containing - in each case based on the total composition - at least one diester of propylene glycol according to the formula
- R 1 and R 2 in each case independently of one another are selected from at least one linear, saturated or unsaturated, branched, saturated or unsaturated and cyclic saturated or unsaturated C 6 to C 30 hydrocarbon radical and / or an optionally C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups and / or Hydroxy groups substituted phenyl or benzyl radical and mixtures thereof in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.% And
- Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair conditioners, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
- Preferred agents according to the invention are shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics.
- combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber.
- the combing work or the force used during the combing process of a fiber collective.
- the measurement parameters can be assessed by the skilled person or quantified by measuring devices.
- the grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective.
- Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.
- Suitable cosmetic vehicles according to the invention are in particular O / W, W / O and W / O / W emulsions in the form of creams or gels or other preparations which are particularly suitable for the Application on the hair are suitable.
- the cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
- An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.
- Aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are within the meaning of the present invention, aqueous solutions containing 1 to 40 wt .-% of a Ci-C ö alcohol, preferably 1 to 35 wt.%, More preferably 3 to 30 wt.%, More preferably 3 to 25% by weight and most preferably 5 to 25% by weight.
- C1 to C6 alcohol are in particular methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol , 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol and their arbitrary mixtures to understand.
- Ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, n-hexanol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and 1, 6-hexanediol and any mixtures thereof are preferably used.
- ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, glycerol and any mixtures thereof are used.
- ethanol and glycerin and mixtures thereof are used. Most preferred, however, is ethanol.
- compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1, 2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
- the cosmetic compositions contain at least one diester of the propylene glycol according to the formula I:
- R1 and R2 each independently represent:
- a radical selected from at least one linear, saturated or unsaturated, branched, saturated or unsaturated and cyclic saturated or unsaturated C6 to C30 hydrocarbon radical and / or a phenyl or benzyl radical optionally substituted by C1 to C4 alkyl groups and / or hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.
- R 1 and R 2 are: hexyl, isohexyl, heptyl, isoheptyl, octyl, iso-octyl, decyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, arachidyl, behenyl and the cyclic radicals:
- radicals R3, R4 and R5 may each independently represent a hydrocarbon radical having one to 4 carbon atoms, a hydroxymethyl group or a hydroxy group.
- the asterisk in the formulas does not stand for an atom but for the binding site to which the relevant residue is attached as R1 and / or R2 to the basic molecule of the formula I.
- radicals R 1 and R 2 in the formula I are identical.
- Most preferred radicals R1 and R2 are the previously described cyclic radicals.
- R1 and / or R2 are phenyl and / or benzyl.
- the compound according to formula I is propylene glycol dibenzoate.
- the compounds of formula I are in the cosmetic compositions in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%, Preferably from 0.01 to 4.0 wt.%, Particularly preferably from 0.05 to 3.5 wt% and most preferably 0.05 to 3.0% by weight, each based on the total composition.
- the second essential ingredient b) in the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof.
- protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
- Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
- Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
- Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soya, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
- Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
- protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates.
- pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ® or Crodarom ® Pearl.
- protein hydrolysates based on collagen, silk, keratin, milk protein, soy, almonds, wheat, fish, algae or pearls Most preferred are the hydrolysates based on silk, keratin, milk protein, fish, algae or pearls.
- the protein hydrolysates are present in the compositions at levels of from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight % By weight, most preferably in amounts of from 0.01 up to 3.0% by weight and most preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 2.0% by weight.
- the effect is further enhanced by the presence of a selected compound having a quaternary ammonium group.
- Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. From these many possible quaternary ammonium compounds, the following groups have been found to be particularly suitable and are taken in each case in an amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt.%. This amount is also not exceeded or exceeded when a mixture of different compounds of the quaternary ammonium compounds is used.
- Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) form the first group.
- radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different.
- the radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:
- branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
- aryl or alkaryl radical for example phenyl or benzyl
- the rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.
- n 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
- hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups.
- Examples are: -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3 , -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals,
- R6-0-CO- wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or
- R 7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100
- Propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated
- A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below.
- the anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO 3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as Maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
- Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ®, Stepantex® ®, Dehyquart® ®, ® and Armocare® Akypoquat ®.
- the products Armocare ® VGH-70, Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80, Dehyquart ® F-30, Dehyquart ® AU-35, Rewoquat ® WE18, Rewoquat ® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131 are examples of these esterquats.
- R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
- esterquats with tradenames Armocare ® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® L80, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131st
- Tkat2 Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds.
- the formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
- the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the preferred compounds of formula (Tkat2) contain for R each the same hydrocarbon radical.
- the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms.
- A is an anion as previously described. Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91.
- compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:
- R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
- R2, R3 and R4 are each independently
- hydroxyalkyl group having one to 4 carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3 , -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and
- A is an anion as previously described and
- n is an integer between 1 and 10.
- R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means.
- amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (Tkat3) represent a radical according to the general formula CH 2 CH 2 OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms , Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen.
- the preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.
- the alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.
- Witcamine ® 100 Incromine ® BB, Mackine ® 401 and other Mackine ® grades, Adogen ® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ® RTM 50, Empigen ® CSC, Swanol ® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ® BAS ® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ® behenyl HE.
- ammonium halides in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride.
- niumchlorid, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and Tricetylmethylammoniumchlorid preferably have 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the abovementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 3.0 wt.%, Based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent.
- quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers.
- the cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
- the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
- Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary
- Vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts.
- the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
- the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
- Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
- R -H or -CH 3 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C1-4-
- Alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and
- Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following
- R is a methyl group
- R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups
- m is 2.
- Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X " include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ion. Preference is given to methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.
- Suitable cationic polymers derived from synthetic polymers are copolymers A of
- A1 from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (Ia)
- the monomer A2 represents 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer; contain.
- a most preferred polymer constructed as previously shown is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.
- a particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37.
- Such products are, for example, under the names Rheocare ® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ® CR (3V Sigma) are commercially available.
- the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion.
- Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 in the trade.
- Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R a R b R c A "
- G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose
- B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or
- R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , R b and R c is preferably not more than 20 is;
- a " is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
- Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights.
- Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ® polymer or polymer ® SK (Amerchol) is. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and Cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
- cationic celluloses are, 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24) under the names Polymer JR ®.
- Other commercial products the compounds Celquat ® H 100 and Celquat ® L are 200.
- Mirustyle CP ® of the company Croda with Trimonium and Cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose a further derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72 before.
- Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
- Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.
- Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.
- a suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®.
- a preferred chitosan is pyrrolidonecarboxylate Chitosonium- which is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA.
- Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
- cationic polymers based on sugars can also be used according to the invention with preference.
- Such compounds are, for example, cationic alkyl oligoglucosides as shown in the following figure.
- the radicals R independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, Oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.
- the radicals R 1 independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical selected from: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, Myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. More preferably, the radicals R1 are the same.
- the radicals R1 are selected from technical mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts of C6 / C8 fatty alcohols, C8 / C10 fatty alcohols, C10 / C12 fatty alcohols, C12 / C14 fatty alcohols, C12 / C18 fatty alcohols, and most preferred are those technical Fatty alcohol cuts of plant origin.
- cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds having the INCI names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82. Most preferred are the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides designated Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82.
- Such compounds can be obtained, for example, under the name Poly Suga® Quat from the company Colonial Chemical Inc.
- the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably in amounts from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.
- mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides can be used. In this case, preference is given to using one long-chain and one short-chain cationic alkyl oligoglucoside at the same time.
- Another cationic polymer can be obtained based on ethanolamine.
- the polymer is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-71.
- This polymer can be obtained, for example, under the name Cola® Moist 300 P from Colonial Chemical Inc.
- the polyquaternium-71 is used in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably in Amounts of from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.
- Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example
- honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
- Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,
- vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and the INCI - name Polyquaternium-1 1,
- Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
- Amphoteric polymers of the invention are those polymers in which a cationic
- R -CH CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 2 R 3 R 4 A (_) (monol)
- R and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A ⁇ _) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
- R 6 and R 7 independently of one another represent a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and
- R 8 -CH CR 9 -COOH (mono 3)
- R 8 and R 9 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
- acrylic acid is preferably used as the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned.
- amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3).
- amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ® 280 (Nalco).
- amphoteric polymers according to the invention may additionally contain one monomer (mono 4).
- R 0 and R independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R 2 is a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 8 ) alkyl group.
- Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).
- amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
- the aforementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any combination with each other, wherein amounts between 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably, amounts from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 3.0 wt.%, Based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent.
- the agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones.
- silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones.
- arylated silicones of the respective groups of silicones are not included in the compositions of the invention.
- the dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
- Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Si l):
- Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Sil 1):
- the radicals R and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
- the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
- the molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D.
- the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970.
- Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps.
- the most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps.
- Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si l .2)
- x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.
- the dimethicones (Sil) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5 wt.% Based on the total composition.
- the dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
- Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-1):
- Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8 - II):
- the radicals R and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical.
- the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
- the molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D.
- the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970.
- Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
- Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Dow Corning 1 -1254 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all four aforementioned GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above).
- the dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition.
- Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones.
- Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (Si-2)
- R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6
- Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R HZ
- R is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and
- Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group
- b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,
- a + b is less than or equal to 3
- c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and
- x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
- y is a number in the range of from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about
- M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.
- Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
- a possible formula for said Z is NH (CH 2 ) z NH 2 , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1.
- Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) z Z NH, wherein both z and zz are independently an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl , Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
- Z is - N (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
- Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
- ⁇ assumes values in the range of 0 to 2
- b takes values in the range of 2 to 3
- a + b is less than or equal to 3
- c is a number in the range of 1 to 3.
- cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Dow Corning (DC) 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-71 13, SM-2059 (General Electric) and SLM-55067 (Wacker).
- Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a) (CH 3 ) 3 Si - [O-Si (CH 3 ) 2] n [O-Si (CH 3 )] m - OSi (CH 3 ) 3 (Si-3a),
- n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
- silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).
- compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)
- R is -OH, a (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (Ci to C 20 ) -
- R ' for -OH, a (C-1 to C 20 ) alkoxy group or a -CH 3 group
- n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values of
- silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant).
- Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general formula (Si3c) [RR 2 R 3 N + - A - SiR 7 R 8 - (O-SiR 9 R 0) n - O - SiR R 12 - A - N + R 4 R 5 R 6 ] 2X " (Si 3c)
- R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are C 1 to C 22 -alkyl radicals which may contain hydroxyl groups and where preferably at least one of the radicals has at least 8 C atoms and the remaining radicals have 1 to 4 C atoms,
- radicals R 7 to R 12 independently of one another, are identical or different and are C 1 - to C 10 -alkyl
- A is a divalent organic compound group
- n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, more preferably from 10 to 40, and X "is an anion.
- the divalent linking group is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene or alkoxyalkylene group which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Particularly preferred is the group - (CH 2 ) 3 -O-CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 -.
- the anion X " may be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate or a compound of general formula RSO 3 " , wherein R has the meaning of C1 to C4 alkyl radicals.
- a preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d)
- A is the group - (CH 2 ) 3 - O - CH 2 - CH (OH) - CH 2 -,
- R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 120.
- Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are among
- Hair treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0, 1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 2 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) and / or diquaternary silicone included.
- polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds Another amino-functional silicone of the present invention are polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds.
- the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds can be obtained, for example, under the trade name Baysilone® from GE Bayer Silicones.
- Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred.
- Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 391 1 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention.
- the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0 , 05 to 2.5 wt.% Each used in relation to the total composition.
- EP 1887024 A1 describes novel cationic amino-functional silicones which in particular improve the gloss in agents for the care of surfaces, for example human hair.
- These cationic silicone polymers are characterized in that they have a silicone backbone and at least one polyether part and furthermore at least one part with an ammonium structure.
- Examples of the preferred cationic silicone polymers for the purposes of the present invention are, in addition to the compounds of the aforementioned EP 1887024 A1, in particular the compounds with the INCI names: Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium-4 Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6, Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-1 1, Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium 16, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium-18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21, Silicone Quaternium-22 and Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate and Silicone Quaternium-16 / Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
- Silicone Quaternium-22 This raw material is sold for example by the company Evonik under the trade name Abil ® Quat T-60th
- the cationic amino-functional silicone polymers are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight. contain. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt.%, In each case based on the total composition of the respective agent.
- cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention.
- cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)
- x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.
- Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5)
- R 3 is -Si- [O-SiR 2] x- (CH 2 ) n - [O-SiR 2 ] y -O-SiR 3 (Si-5),
- R stands for identical or different radicals from the group -H
- Ci of 20 - alkyl radicals preferably -CH 3, -CH 2 CH 3, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3, -CH (CH 3) 2, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , - CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3
- x and y are 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular stands for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.
- water-soluble silicones may be present in the compositions according to the invention.
- Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7).
- Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.
- Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):
- radical R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group
- radicals R 'and R denote alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms
- x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30
- y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10
- a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30 ,
- dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade names SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING.
- Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.
- the dimethicone copolyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.
- ester oil Another nourishing ingredient which may be used with particular preference is an ester oil.
- Ester oils are preferred over the silicone oils in the preferred compositions of this invention.
- the ester oils are defined as follows:
- Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
- the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
- Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures.
- fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
- isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
- isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
- 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
- stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
- cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate
- Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV caprylate (Cetior LC)
- n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
- isopropyl palmitate Rosani IPP
- Oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
- hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
- di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
- myristyl myristate Cet
- ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide.
- the alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils.
- R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
- AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide
- X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,
- R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
- fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid , Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
- fatty alcohol moieties R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol , Arachylalkohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
- a particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.
- ester oils are to be understood as meaning:
- Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
- diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
- Fatty acid partial glycerides ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
- oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
- the ester oils are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Used.
- oils examples include argan oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, cape pine oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
- triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils such as coco caprylate,
- the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
- natural oils for example, amaranthsamenol, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil , Evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.
- natural oils for example, amaranthsamenol, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegran
- Amaranthsamenol, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, marula oil, macadamia oil, almond oil, in particular sweet almond oil, sesame oil, are particularly preferred among the abovementioned ester oils.
- ester oils are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Used.
- the hair treatment compositions according to the invention also contain, in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention, further constituents customary in cosmetic compositions.
- the selection of these ingredients generally depends on the intended use of the hair treatment compositions.
- further surface-active substances will be contained.
- further cationic compounds and other care substances may be present.
- the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle.
- the choice of surfactants depends on the nature of the agent.
- Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are:
- Sulfobernsteinklamono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
- Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
- Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
- Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,
- R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 0) n R 2 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or Alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical,
- RCO-- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms
- Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3
- n for numbers of 0 , 5 to 5 and M is a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion, such as + NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical
- R 8 OC- (OCH 2 CH 2 ) x -OCH 2 - [CHO (CH 2 CH 2 O) y H] -CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) z -SO 3 X, in which R CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal.
- Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
- monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ®.
- Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a C8-C30 fatty acid are available under the trademark Lamepon® ®, Maypon ®, Gluadin® ®, Hostapon® ® KCG or Amisoft ® long been commercially.
- the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Further, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferable that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether groups with no restricted homolog distribution can be obtained, for example on the one hand the number of polyglycol ether groups is 4 to 12 and Zn or Mg ions are selected as the counterion. One example is the commercial product Texapon.RTM ® ASV.
- Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
- a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
- Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts.
- suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkylimino-dipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
- amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
- Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d 2 -C 8 -acylsarcosine.
- Nonionic surfactants are for example
- R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
- R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
- R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
- w is a number from 1 to 20 .
- R 0 [CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 0] x (CH 2 CHR 2 0) y [CH 2 CH (OH) R 3 ] z with R standing for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl and or alkenyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms
- R 2 is hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or iso-propyl radical
- R 3 is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms
- x is is 0 or a number from 1 to 20
- Y is a number from 1 to 30
- z is the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.
- Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers,
- Cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat1-1) can additionally be used.
- R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms optionally with one or more hydroxy groups may be substituted.
- A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.
- Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.
- the surfactants (T) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,
- Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
- Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
- Sterols both from animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol, lanosterol) and from plant fats (phytosterols, ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols),
- Phospholipids lecithins, phopshatidylcholines
- Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
- Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate
- the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent.
- the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (fat) as further active ingredient.
- Fat substances (fat) are understood to mean fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
- fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
- fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures.
- Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
- the amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean.
- the amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
- Fatty alcohols may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 - C 30 -, preferably C 0 - C 22 -, and most preferably d 2 - C 22 - carbon atoms.
- Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
- the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
- those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
- Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Is
- wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
- the fatty alcohols are in Amounts of 0, 1 to 30 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably used in amounts of 0, 1 to 20 wt .-%.
- waxes As natural or synthetic waxes (Fatwax), solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP can be used according to the invention.
- Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
- the amount used is 0, 1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0, 1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0, 1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.
- the total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.
- vitamins are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.
- Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
- vitamin A The group of substances referred to as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A-1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
- the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
- vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
- the agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
- the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a .:
- Vitamin B-i (thiamine)
- Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
- Vitamin B 3 the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
- Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
- Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone.
- Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
- Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
- Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.
- Vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
- the said compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B 3 , B 5 and B 6 are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
- Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
- Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
- Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
- Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
- Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
- Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
- compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
- a particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the following betaines: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, betalain, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and in the literature as Betaine designated compound ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ -trimethylglycine.
- Carnitine, histidine, choline and betaine are preferably used.
- the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate.
- compositions according to the invention contain biochinones.
- suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).
- the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
- Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred.
- compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges.
- preferred cosmetic agents are characterized characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s) included.
- Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic preparations, caffeine is most preferred.
- the cosmetic agent contains ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid.
- agents which, based on their weight, are from 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 3% by weight, of the active compounds from Group formed by carnitine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a B-series vitamin, a purine and its derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.
- a particularly preferred care additive in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention is taurine.
- Taurine is understood to mean exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and a derivative to the explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine.
- Derivatives of taurine include N-monomethyltaurine, ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithine, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine.
- agents according to the invention which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included.
- the effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
- the sodium salt is most preferred.
- the amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.
- the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be formulated in a particularly natural and yet very effective way in their care performance.
- customary preservatives can be dispensed with.
- the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
- anionic polymers examples include acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
- the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
- Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
- Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
- the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid which is commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ® 1 1-80 is.
- Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
- Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
- anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
- Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
- a 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
- the anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.
- Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
- Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF).
- Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
- Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ® grades (Hercules).
- Starch and its derivatives in particular starch, such as Structure XL ® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
- the nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
- the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter.
- UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
- oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:
- 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester;
- Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3-phenyl-cinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
- Esters of salicylic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
- benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
- Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate
- Triazine derivatives e.g. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyltriazone.
- Propane-1,3-diones e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
- Suitable water-soluble substances are: 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
- Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
- Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) -sulfonic acid and its salts.
- UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione.
- the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures.
- insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, in particular finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate.
- the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.
- the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as
- Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
- Swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin
- Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
- Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
- Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
- Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C0 2 and air,
- Another subject of the invention is therefore a method for hair treatment, in which a hair treatment composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and is rinsed by the hair after a contact time.
- the exposure time is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 50 minutes and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.
- a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and remains there.
- “remaining on the hair” means that the agent is not rinsed out of the hair immediately after it has been used, but in this case the agent remains on the hair for more than 100 minutes until the next hair wash.
- Amaranth seed oil 0,05 - 0, 1
- Protein hydrolyzate (Nutrilan I, or Gluadin W40, 0.5 0.7 0, 1
- compositions have a viscosity between 50 and 1000 mPas as measured by Brookfield at 25 ° C, spindle 3 at 50 rpm. All compositions can be filled in conventional non-aerosol spray bottles.
- the Doier pumps of the spray systems can be equipped both with a sieve and without sieve. If the metering pumps of the spray systems are equipped with a sieve, it is particularly advantageous if in the pump head further air is added to the entire composition, so that the composition can be applied as a foam.
- the filling in aerosol cans together with conventional propellants such as iso-propane, propane, isobutane, butane, tert-butane, pentane, iso-pentane, ter-pentane, neopentane or dimethyl ether and any mixtures thereof in the ratio of 90 : 10, preferably 92: 8 (blowing agent) possible.
- propellants such as iso-propane, propane, isobutane, butane, tert-butane, pentane, iso-pentane, ter-pentane, neopentane or dimethyl ether and any mixtures thereof in the ratio of 90 : 10, preferably 92: 8 (blowing agent) possible.
- a particularly creamy and stable foam is obtained, which can be very well distributed in the hair.
- the performance assessment was carried out by 5 hairdressers on 20 heads each in the so-called half-page test.
- the recipes E1 to E3 were tested against the recipes V1 to V3.
- the formulations V1 to V3 are the formulations E1 to E3, however, without protein hydrolyzate and propylene glycols dibenzoate, the active ingredient combination according to the invention.
- the hair was washed as usual with a shampoo and dried with a towel.
- the head halves were parted with a comb in the middle and on each half of the head, 5 g of the respective test composition was sprayed on, ie E1 against V1, etc.
- the amount was determined by knowing the amount of product which the pump puts out and at all Products the same pumps were used.
- the compositions were applied at 25 ° C and not rinsed out again.
- compositions E1 to E3 according to the invention were found in the parameters
- compositions in each parameter at least 1 grade better.
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Abstract
Description
Claims
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Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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DE102011088561A DE102011088561A1 (de) | 2011-12-14 | 2011-12-14 | Haarkur ohne arylierte Silikone |
PCT/EP2012/071799 WO2013087294A2 (de) | 2011-12-14 | 2012-11-05 | Haarkur ohne arylierte silikone |
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EP (1) | EP2822658A2 (de) |
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KR101683131B1 (ko) * | 2015-07-23 | 2016-12-07 | 퓨전켐코리아㈜ | 비듬 개선 및 헤어 스타일링능을 갖는 화장료 조성물 |
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DE10061419A1 (de) * | 2000-12-09 | 2002-06-13 | Henkel Kgaa | Neue Verwendung von Proteinhydrolysaten |
DE10258960A1 (de) * | 2002-12-16 | 2004-07-01 | Henkel Kgaa | Nanoskalige Hydrogele gegen Falten, raue und trockene Haut |
CN1320877C (zh) * | 2002-12-25 | 2007-06-13 | 花王株式会社 | 毛发化妆品 |
DE102006035512A1 (de) | 2006-07-31 | 2008-02-07 | Evonik Goldschmidt Gmbh | Neuartige Polysiloxane mit quaternären Ammoniumgruppen, Verfahren zu deren Herstellung und deren Verwendung in reinigenden und pflegenden Formulierungen |
EP2022467A1 (de) | 2007-08-07 | 2009-02-11 | KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH | Zweiphasige Zusammensetzung zur Haarkonditionierung |
EP2022466A1 (de) | 2007-08-07 | 2009-02-11 | KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH | Zwei- oder mehrphasige Zusammensetzung zur Haarkonditionierung |
EP2022465A1 (de) | 2007-08-07 | 2009-02-11 | KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH | Mehrphasige Zusammensetzung zur Haarkonditionierung |
DE102007041491A1 (de) * | 2007-08-31 | 2009-03-05 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Kosmetische Pflegecreme |
US9106629B2 (en) * | 2009-08-18 | 2015-08-11 | Microsoft Technology Licensing, Llc | Distributed algorithm for changing a shared value |
DE102009046873A1 (de) * | 2009-11-19 | 2011-05-26 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Einphasige Haarkur |
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2011
- 2011-12-14 DE DE102011088561A patent/DE102011088561A1/de not_active Withdrawn
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2012
- 2012-11-05 EP EP12781094.3A patent/EP2822658A2/de not_active Ceased
- 2012-11-05 WO PCT/EP2012/071799 patent/WO2013087294A2/de active Application Filing
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2014
- 2014-06-12 US US14/302,602 patent/US20140294748A1/en not_active Abandoned
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DE102011088561A1 (de) | 2013-06-20 |
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