EP2785317A2 - Produits de soins capillaires à base d'alkyloligoglucosides cationiques sélectionnés et de silicones cationiques - Google Patents

Produits de soins capillaires à base d'alkyloligoglucosides cationiques sélectionnés et de silicones cationiques

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Publication number
EP2785317A2
EP2785317A2 EP12781104.0A EP12781104A EP2785317A2 EP 2785317 A2 EP2785317 A2 EP 2785317A2 EP 12781104 A EP12781104 A EP 12781104A EP 2785317 A2 EP2785317 A2 EP 2785317A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cationic
acid
silicone quaternium
quaternium
alcohol
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
EP12781104.0A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Manuela METTE
Nicole Zuedel Fernandes
Jörg KAHRE
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Publication date
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Publication of EP2785317A2 publication Critical patent/EP2785317A2/fr
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing selected cationic alkyl oligoglucosides and cationic silicones.
  • a care complex should be provided which can ideally also be used in conjunction with oxidizing agents and surface-active agents.
  • the oxidative treatment keratin braver fibers, especially human hair with the application of an effective fiber protection from environmental influences, such as UV protection, are connected.
  • a hair treatment composition which contains an active substance complex containing as essential ingredients at least one cationic alkyl oligoglucoside and at least one cationic silicone having at least three terminal amino-functional groups.
  • Hair treatment compositions comprising this active ingredient complex lead to the improvement of the finishing, to improve the gloss, to improve the moisture balance and to protect against oxidative damage and preventing the re-greasing of the keratinic fibers and to increase the wash resistance of dyed keratinic fibers, especially human hair and the time delay of Formation of dandruff.
  • Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair packs, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos or combinations thereof.
  • the hair conditioning compositions such as hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair oils and lotions both as a leave-on, ie as on the hair until the next hair wash remaining products, as well as rinse-off, so a few seconds to a few hours after the application again rinsed products understood by the hair treatment compositions of the invention.
  • the grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective.
  • Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.
  • Restructuring in the context of the invention is to be understood as a reduction of the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to a great variety of influences.
  • the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role.
  • Restructured fibers are characterized by improved gloss, improved grip and ease of combing.
  • they have improved strength and elasticity.
  • a successful restructuring can be physically detected as a melting point increase compared to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the firmer the structure of the fiber.
  • wash fastness refers to the preservation of the original color with regard to nuance and / or intensity when the keratinic fiber is exposed to the repeated influence of aqueous agents, in particular surfactant-containing agents such as shampoos.
  • compositions according to the invention comprising the active substance complex according to the invention are distinguished by a significantly improved state of the keratinic fibers with respect to the moisture balance of the keratinic fibers.
  • the active substance complex according to the invention leads to a clear protection of the keratinic fibers from the effects of heat, for example during blow-drying of keratinic fibers.
  • the protection of the surface of keratinic fibers from the effects of heat is of great importance, in particular when using straighteners or hair dryers.
  • the compositions according to the invention lead to a significantly delayed re-soiling of the keratinic fibers. In addition, the formation of dandruff on the scalp is significantly delayed.
  • An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.
  • aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 6 -alcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n -Pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1,6-hexanediol to understand.
  • a C 1 -C 6 -alcohol in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol
  • isopropanol butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol
  • n -Pentanol iso-pentanols
  • the agents according to the invention may additionally contain further organic Solvents such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1, 2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. Particularly preferred is water.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore a hair treatment composition containing in a suitable cosmetic carrier - in each case based on the total composition of the composition - a) at least one cationic Alkyloligoglucosid in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.% And
  • the first compelling component is a cationic alkyl oligoglucoside as shown in the following figure.
  • the radicals R independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, Oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.
  • the radicals R 1 independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical selected from: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, Myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. More preferably, the radicals R1 are the same.
  • the radicals R1 are more preferably selected from technical mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts from C6 / C8 fatty alcohols, C8 / C10 fatty alcohols, C10 / C12 fatty alcohols, C12 / C14 Fatty alcohols, C12 / C18 fatty alcohols, and most preferred are those technical fatty alcohol cuts of plant origin.
  • the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides described above can be prepared, for example, from customary alkyl oligoglucosides.
  • the Alkyloligoglucoside be implemented in this case by conventional methods to quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycosides may be known nonionic surfactants. These sugar surfactants are known nonionic surfactants according to formula (I),
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), d. H. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 30.
  • the value p for a particular alkyloligoglycoside is a analytically determined arithmetic size, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 20.0.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 30, preferably 6 to 24, more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, octanol, nonanol, decanol, undecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and technical mixtures of and with these alcohols.
  • the quaternization of the alkyloligoglucosides can be carried out, for example, with quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) -ammonium halide.
  • quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) -ammonium halide.
  • the chain length of the alkyl group is preferably 6 to 30, more preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds having the INCI names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82. Most preferred are the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides designated Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82.
  • Such compounds can be obtained, for example, under the name Poly Suga® Quat from the company Colonial Chemical Inc.
  • the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3.0% by weight and highest preferably used in amounts of from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.
  • a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight preferably 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3.0% by weight and highest preferably used in amounts of from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.
  • more mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides can be used. In this case, preference is given to using one long-chain and one short-chain cationic alkyl oligoglucoside at the same time.
  • the second compelling component of the drug complex is a cationic aminosilicone.
  • the cationic aminosilicones with at least three terminal amino-functional groups have only recently been commercialized.
  • These cationic silicone polymers are characterized in that they have a silicone backbone and optionally a polyether part and furthermore at least one part with an ammonium structure.
  • Examples of the preferred cationic silicone polymers for the purposes of the present invention are in particular the compounds with the INCI designations: Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6 Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-1 1, Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium 18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21, Silicone Quaternium-22 and Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate and Silicone Quaternium-16 / Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Most preferred is Silicone Quaternium-22. This raw material is sold, for example, by the company Evonik under the trade name Abil ® Quat
  • the cationic amino-functional silicone polymers are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 5% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight.
  • the very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 2.5 wt.%, In each case based on the total composition of the respective agent.
  • compositions according to the invention if at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant is present in the compositions according to the invention.
  • these ingredients may potentially contribute significantly to stabilizing viscosity and storage behavior.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts.
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkylimino dipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d 2 -C 8 -acylsarcosine.
  • a particularly preferred compound is Coco Betaine.
  • ingredients are used in amounts of from 0.01% to 5.0% by weight, based on the total composition of the composition. Amounts of from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight are preferred. Particularly preferred are amounts of 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.%, Most preferably from 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%.
  • a second subject of the present invention is therefore a hair treatment composition
  • a hair treatment composition comprising, in a suitable cosmetic carrier - in each case based on the total weight of the composition - a) at least one cationic alkyloligoglucoside in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, and
  • a further increase of the effects according to the invention is achieved by further cationic and / or amphoteric ingredients.
  • These are in principle monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. From the large number of possible cationic surfactants and / or cationic polymers, the following compounds have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • Cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat1-1) are the first group of preferred cationic compounds.
  • R1, R2, R3 and R4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxy groups.
  • A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.
  • Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.
  • Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1-2) are further examples of cationic surfactants.
  • radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different.
  • the radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:
  • branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
  • aryl or alkaryl radical for example phenyl or benzyl
  • the rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.
  • n 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
  • -X- a hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups.
  • -X- are: -CHOH, -CHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CHOH, -COHCHOH, -CHOHCOH, -CHCHOHCH 3 , -CH 2 COHCH 3 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 -, -C (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CHOH, -CH 2 COHCH 3 and hydroxybutyl radicals, where the bond of -X- to R 4 is based on the free valence of the relevant carbon atom and R 4 is: 1) R6-0-CO-, wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy
  • R7-CO- wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,
  • A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below.
  • the anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO 3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as Maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
  • Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ®, Stepantex® ®, Dehyquart® ®, ® and Armocare® Akypoquat ®.
  • the products Armocare ® VGH-70, Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80, Dehyquart ® F-30, Dehyquart ® AU-35, Rewoquat ® WE18, Rewoquat ® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131 are examples of these esterquats.
  • R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
  • esterquats with tradenames Armocare ® VGH-70, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart "5 'L80, Stepantex * 5' VS 90 and 131 are Akypoquar.
  • Tkat2 Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds.
  • the formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
  • the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical.
  • the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms.
  • A stands for an anion as previously described. Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium 91 is highly preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:
  • R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
  • R2, R3 and R4 are each independently
  • hydroxyalkyl group having one to 4 carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3 , -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and
  • A is an anion as previously described and
  • n is an integer between 1 and 10.
  • R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means.
  • amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (Tkat3) represent a radical according to the general formula CH 2 CH 2 OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms , Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen.
  • the preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.
  • the alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition.
  • the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.
  • inventive commercial products are Witcamine 100, Incromine BB, Mackine ® 401 and other Mackine ® grades, Adogen ® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ® RTM 50, Empigen ® CSC, Swanol ® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ® BAS ® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ® behenyl HE.
  • the abovementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 3.0 wt.%, Based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent.
  • the cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary
  • Vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts.
  • the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • a most preferred polymer is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37.
  • Such products are, for example, under the names Rheocare ® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ® CR (3V Sigma) are commercially available.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion.
  • Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 in the trade.
  • subsequent cationic polymers (a) are preferably used in the compositions according to the invention if the cationic polymers (a) with respect to the abovementioned formulas (I) to (IV) fulfill one or more of the following features:
  • R and R 4 each represent a methyl group
  • X 1 stands for a group NH
  • X 2 stands for a group NH
  • a and A 2 are each independently ethane-1, 2-diyl or propane-1, 3-diyl,
  • R 2 , R 3 , R 5 and R 6 independently of one another represent methyl or ethyl, (particularly preferably methyl),
  • R 7 represents a (C 10 to C 2 4) alkyl group, in particular decyl (Caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl ( behenyl).
  • the structural unit of the formula (III) is according to the invention a very particularly preferred structural unit.
  • the structural unit of the formula (IV) is selected, to consist of at least one structural unit of the formulas (IV-1) to (IV-8)
  • each R 7 is a (C 8 to C 30 ) alkyl group.
  • particularly preferred structural unit of the formula (IV) are the structural units of the formula (IV-7) and / or the formula (IV-8), wherein in each case R 7 is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl ), Tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).
  • the structural unit of the formula (IV-8) represents according to the invention a very particularly preferred structural unit of the formula (IV).
  • a cationic polymer which is very particularly preferably present in the agent according to the invention comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III-8) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-8 )
  • R 7 is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).
  • a very particularly preferred cationic polymer according to the invention is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which is, for example under the trade name Aqua style ® 300 (28-32 wt .-% of active substance in ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350000) is sold by the company ISP.
  • Aqua style ® 300 28-32 wt .-% of active substance in ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350000
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R a R b R c A "
  • G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose
  • B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or
  • R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , R b and R c is preferably not more than 20 is;
  • a " is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
  • Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights.
  • Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ® polymer or polymer ® SK (Amerchol) is. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
  • cationic celluloses are, 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24) under the names Polymer JR ®.
  • Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ® H 100 and Celquat ® L 200.
  • Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.
  • Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.
  • a suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®.
  • a preferred chitosan salt is Chitosoniumpyrrolidoncarboxylat, which is sold, for example under the name Kytamer PC from Amerchol, USA.
  • Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,
  • vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and the INCI - name Polyquaternium-1 1,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3).
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ® 280 (Nalco).
  • Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).
  • amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
  • the polymers described so far represent only part of the polymers which can be used according to the invention.
  • the INCI declarations of the polymers preferred according to the invention are given in summary.
  • the inventively preferred polymers bear the INCI name:
  • the abovementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Are included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may contain further silicones.
  • These optional silicones are preferably at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones.
  • the dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Sil):
  • Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Sil 1):
  • the radicals R and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cPs.
  • the most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Sil .2)
  • x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.
  • the dimethicones (Sil) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5 wt.% Based on the total composition.
  • the dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I):
  • Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8 - II):
  • the radicals R and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Coming 1401 Fluid, Dow Coming 1403 Fluid, Dow Coming 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all four aforementioned GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above ).
  • the dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones.
  • Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (Si-2)
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6
  • Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R HZ
  • R is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group
  • b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,
  • a + b is less than or equal to 3
  • c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and
  • x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
  • y is a number in the range of from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about
  • M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.
  • Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for said Z is NH (CH 2 ) z NH 2 , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1.
  • Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl.
  • Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
  • Z is - N (CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zzNX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
  • Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • ⁇ assumes values in the range of 0 to 2
  • b takes values in the range of 2 to 3
  • a + b is less than or equal to 3
  • c is a number in the range of 1 to 3.
  • cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Dow Corning (DC) 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-71 13, SM-2059 (General Electric) and SLM-55067 (Wacker).
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
  • silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).
  • compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)
  • R is -OH, (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (C 1 -C 20 ) -
  • R ' is -OH, a (Ci to C 20 ) -alkoxy group or a -CH 3 -group and
  • n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values of
  • silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant).
  • Amodimethicone or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant).
  • Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general formula (Si3c) [RR 2 R 3 N + - A - SiR 7 R 8 - (O-SiR 9 R 0 ) n - O - SiR R 12 - A - N + R 4 R 5 R 6 ] 2X - (Si 3c) where the radicals R1 to R6 independently of one another are C1 to C22-alkyl radicals, which
  • At least one of the radicals has at least 8 C atoms and the remaining radicals have 1 to 4 C atoms,
  • radicals R 7 to R 12 independently of one another, are identical or different and are C 1 - to C 10 -alkyl or phenyl,
  • A is a divalent organic compound group
  • n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, more preferably from 10 to 40, and X "is an anion.
  • the divalent linking group is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene or alkoxyalkylene group which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Particularly preferred is the group - (CH 2 ) 3-0-CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 -.
  • the anion X " may be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate or a compound of general formula RSO 3 " , wherein R has the meaning of C1 to C4 alkyl radicals.
  • a preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d)
  • A is the group - (CH 2 ) 3 - O - CH 2 - CH (OH) - CH 2 -,
  • R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 120.
  • Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are among
  • Hair treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0, 1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 2 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) and / or diquaternary silicone included.
  • polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds Another amino-functional silicone of the present invention are polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds.
  • the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds can be obtained, for example, under the trade name Baysilone® from GE Bayer Silicones.
  • Baysilone TP 391 1, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred.
  • Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 391 1 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0 , 05 to 2.5 wt.% Each used in relation to the total composition.
  • cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention.
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)
  • x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.
  • Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5)
  • R 3 is -Si- [O-SiR 2] x- (CH 2 ) n - [O-SiR 2 ] y -O-SiR 3 (Si-5),
  • R stands for identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) Ph
  • the d_ 20 -alkyl preferably -CH 3, -CH 2 CH 3, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C ( CH 3 ) 3
  • x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.
  • water-soluble silicones may be present in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7).
  • Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.
  • Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):
  • the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group
  • the radicals R 'and R denote alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms
  • x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably 20 to 30
  • y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10
  • a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.
  • dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade names SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING.
  • Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.
  • the dimethicone copolyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.
  • Ester oils may be present with particular preference as an oil body in the combination of active substances according to the invention.
  • the ester oils are defined as follows:
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate
  • Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate Rosanit ® IPP
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • myrist IPM Rilanit ®
  • ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide.
  • the alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils.
  • R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide
  • X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,
  • R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid , Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol moieties R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol , Arachylalkohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • a particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.
  • ester oils are to be understood as meaning:
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • the ester oils are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Used.
  • oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • natural oils for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil , Evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.
  • natural oils for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention also contain, in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention, further constituents customary in cosmetic compositions.
  • the selection of these ingredients generally depends on the intended use of the hair treatment compositions.
  • further surface-active substances will be contained.
  • further cationic compounds and other care substances may be present.
  • the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle.
  • the choice of surfactants depends on the nature of the agent.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are:
  • Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, Sulfobernsteinklamono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 0) n R 2 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or Alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RCO (AlkO) n SO 3 M
  • RCO-- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms
  • Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3
  • n for numbers of 0 , 5 to 5 and M is a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion, such as + NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical
  • R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10
  • X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal.
  • monoglyceride ether sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
  • monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
  • Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ®.
  • Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a C8-C30 fatty acid are available under the trademark Lamepon® ®, Maypon ®, Gluadin® ®, Hostapon® ® KCG or Amisoft ® long been commercially.
  • mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Further, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferable that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether groups with no restricted homolog distribution can be obtained, for example on the one hand the number of polyglycol ether groups is 4 to 12 and Zn or Mg ions are selected as the counterion.
  • One example is the commercial product Texapon.RTM ® ASV.
  • Nonionic surfactants are for example
  • R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • w is a number from 1 to 20 .
  • R 0 [CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 0] x (CH 2 CHR 2 0) y [CH 2 CH (OH) R 3 ] z with R standing for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl and with or alkenyl radical 2 to 30 C atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or iso-propyl radical
  • R 3 is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms
  • x is 0 or one Number from 1 to 20, Y stands for a number from 1 to 30 and z stands for the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.
  • Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers,
  • the surfactants (T) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention ,
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols both from animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol, lanosterol) and from plant fats (phytosterols, ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols),
  • Phospholipids lecithins, phopshatidylcholines
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH).
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (fat) as further active ingredient.
  • Fat substances (fat) are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which may be both in solid form and liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0, 1-15 wt.%, Based on the total mean.
  • the amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
  • Fatty alcohols may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 - C 30 -, preferably C 0 - C 22 -, and most preferably d 2 - C 22 - carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Is
  • wool wax alcohols according to the invention as described, for example, under the names Corona® , White Swan® , Coronet or Fluilan are commercially available to be used.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 20% by weight.
  • waxes As natural or synthetic waxes (Fatwax), solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP can be used according to the invention.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0, 1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0, 1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0, 1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof (P).
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soybean, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda), Crotein ® (Croda) and Puricare ® LS 9658 from Laboratoires Serobi unanimouss.
  • protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates.
  • pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ® or Crodarom ® Pearl.
  • cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms , for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates, may originate.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention those listed under the INCI Designations mentioned in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products.
  • the protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight. up to 5% by weight.
  • vitamins are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.
  • Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a .:
  • Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • Vitamin B 3 the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone.
  • Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B type are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • a particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the following betaines: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, betalain, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and in the literature as Betaine designated compound ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ -trimethylglycine.
  • compositions according to the invention contain biochinones.
  • suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).
  • the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
  • Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred.
  • compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges.
  • inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).
  • Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic preparations, caffeine is most preferred.
  • the cosmetic agent contains ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid.
  • ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid.
  • agents which, based on their weight, are from 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 3% by weight, of the active compounds from Group formed by carnitine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a vitamin B series, a purine and its derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.
  • a particularly preferred care additive in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention is taurine.
  • Taurine is understood to mean exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and a derivative to the explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine.
  • Derivatives of taurine include N-monomethyltaurine, ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithine, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine.
  • agents according to the invention which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included.
  • the effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be formulated in a particularly natural and yet very effective way in their care performance.
  • customary preservatives can be dispensed with.
  • anionic polymers examples include acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid which is commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ® 1 1-80 is.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
  • a 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
  • the anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF).
  • Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ® grades (Hercules).
  • Starch and its derivatives in particular starch, such as Structure XL ® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
  • the nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter.
  • UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3-phenyl-cinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
  • Esters of salicylic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate
  • Triazine derivatives e.g. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and
  • Propane-1,3-diones e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
  • Suitable water-soluble substances are:
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) -sulfonic acid and its salts.
  • UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane are suitable, such as, for example, 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4' isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione.
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures.
  • insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, in particular finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.
  • the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as
  • Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
  • Swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, C0 2 and air,
  • Another subject of the invention is therefore a method for hair treatment, in which a hair treatment composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and is rinsed by the hair after a contact time.
  • the exposure time is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 50 minutes and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.
  • a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and remains there.
  • “remaining on the hair” means that the agent is not rinsed out of the hair immediately after it has been used, and in many cases the agent remains on the hair for more than 100 minutes until the next hair wash.
  • the recipe in question is either filled with a propellant in an aerosol container or discharged from a pump bottle with a corresponding pump attachment, such as Airfoamer as foam.
  • fatty alcohols such as cetylstearyl alcohol and / or ethylene glycol distearate and / or glycerol monostearate are added to the abovementioned formulations in amounts of from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight.

Abstract

L'invention concerne des produits de soins capillaires contenant des alkyloligoglucosides cationiques sélectionnés et des silicones cationiques. On a découvert de manière surprenante que le problème posé est résolu de manière excellente par un produit de soin capillaire qui contient un complexe de substances actives contenant comme constituants essentiels des alkyloligoglucosides cationiques et au moins une silicone cationique portant au moins trois groupes aminofonctionnels terminaux.
EP12781104.0A 2011-11-29 2012-11-06 Produits de soins capillaires à base d'alkyloligoglucosides cationiques sélectionnés et de silicones cationiques Withdrawn EP2785317A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102011087269A DE102011087269A1 (de) 2011-11-29 2011-11-29 Haarpflegemittel mit ausgewählten kationischen Alkyloligoglucosiden und kationischen Silikonen
PCT/EP2012/071875 WO2013079278A2 (fr) 2011-11-29 2012-11-06 Produits de soins capillaires à base d'alkyloligoglucosides cationiques sélectionnés et de silicones cationiques

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WO2007007255A2 (fr) * 2005-07-08 2007-01-18 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions de soins personnels et procedes de mise en beaute de la peau et des cheveux d'un mammifere
DE102009027964A1 (de) * 2009-07-23 2011-01-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarkonditionierende Mittel mit ausgewählten kationischen Siliconen und Dimethicon
EP2335679A1 (fr) * 2009-12-18 2011-06-22 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition de conditionnement pour cheveux
EP2335684A1 (fr) * 2009-12-18 2011-06-22 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition de conditionnement pour cheveux

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WO2013079278A3 (fr) 2014-05-08
WO2013079278A2 (fr) 2013-06-06

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