EP1793798A1 - Photo-stable cosmetic or dermatological compositions - Google Patents

Photo-stable cosmetic or dermatological compositions

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Publication number
EP1793798A1
EP1793798A1 EP05786945A EP05786945A EP1793798A1 EP 1793798 A1 EP1793798 A1 EP 1793798A1 EP 05786945 A EP05786945 A EP 05786945A EP 05786945 A EP05786945 A EP 05786945A EP 1793798 A1 EP1793798 A1 EP 1793798A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
derivative
use according
formula
alkyl
cosmetic
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP05786945A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1793798B1 (en
Inventor
Stefan Müller
Bernd Herzog
Katja Quass
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
BASF SE
Original Assignee
Ciba Spezialitaetenchemie Holding AG
Ciba SC Holding AG
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Application filed by Ciba Spezialitaetenchemie Holding AG, Ciba SC Holding AG filed Critical Ciba Spezialitaetenchemie Holding AG
Priority to EP05786945.5A priority Critical patent/EP1793798B1/en
Publication of EP1793798A1 publication Critical patent/EP1793798A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1793798B1 publication Critical patent/EP1793798B1/en
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/066Multiple emulsions, e.g. water-in-oil-in-water
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/415Aminophenols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/893Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/57Compounds covalently linked to a(n inert) carrier molecule, e.g. conjugates, pro-fragrances

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of a specific stabilizing agent (a) for improving the stability with respect to UV radiation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition
  • a specific stabilizing agent (a) for improving the stability with respect to UV radiation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition
  • a UV filter combination of at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative (b) and of at least one specific amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c).
  • sunscreen formulations which include materials which are in ⁇ tended to counteract UV radiation, thereby inhibiting the said undesired effects on the skin.
  • a particular advantageous family of UV-A screening agents is currently com ⁇ posed of dibenzoylmethane derivatives and in particular 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl- methane; this is because these derivatives exhibit a high intrinsic absorbance.
  • Dibenzoyl- methane derivatives are well known per se as screening agents actives in the UV-A region, and are disclosed in particular in FR-A-2 326 405, FR-A-2 440 933 and EP-A-O 114 607.
  • 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane is currently offered for sale under the trademark of "Parsol 1789" by DSM.
  • dibenzoylmethane derivatives are relatively sensitive to UV radiation (in particular UV-A radiation), AND more specifically, that they have an unfortunate tendency to more or less rapid decomposition under the effect of the latter.
  • UV radiation in particular UV-A radiation
  • this substantial lack of photochemical stability of dibenzoylmethane derivatives with respect to UV radiation does not make it possible to guarantee constant protection during prolonged exposure to the sun, so that repeated sun screen applications at regular and frequent intervals have to be carried out by the user in order to obtain effective protection of the skin against UV radiation.
  • the photostabilization of dibenzoylmethane derivatives with respect to UV radiation con ⁇ stitutes a problem, which has not yet been solved until now in a completely satisfactory manner.
  • the present invention relates to the use of an effective photo-stabilizing amount of stabilizing agent (a) selected from a diphenylacrylate UV filter (ai), a benzyl idene camphor derivative (a 2 ), an organosiloxane comrising benzalemalonate groups (a 3 ), a fluoren derivative (a 4 ), a naphthalene dicarboxylic acid derivative (a 5 ) a natural occurring stabilizer (a 6 ); and a phenolic antioxidant (a 7 ); for improving the stability with respect to UV radiation of a cosmetic or dermatological com ⁇ position comprising a UV filter combination of at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative (b) and of at least one specific amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c).
  • a a diphenylacrylate UV filter
  • a 2 a benzyl idene camphor derivative
  • the diphenylacrylate UV filter (ai) which is used in the present invention for the stabilization of cosmetic or dermatological composition is preferably selected from 2-ethylhexyl 2- cyano,3,3-diphenylacrylate which corresponds to the
  • Suitable benzylidene camphor derivatives (a 2 ) are disclosed in US-A-5,605,680.
  • p-methylbenzylidene camphor is used in the present invention as component (a 2 ).
  • the organosiloxane comprising benzalemalonate groups (a 3 ) preferably correspond to the formula
  • R is CrCi O alkyl; phenyl; or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, at least 80% of the number of the R radicals being methyl radicals; r is an integer rom O to 200; s is an integer rom 0 to 50 u is an integer from 1 to 20; t is an integer from 0 to 20; wherein t + u is equal to or greater than 3; and.
  • a and/or B is a benzalmalonate radical.
  • A is preferably the radical of formula (2c) X .5 , wherein Ri and R 2 are each hydrogen; OH; trimethylsiloxy; CrC 6 alkyl; CrC 6 alkoxy; or a radical of the
  • R 4 with the proviso that one of the radicals Ri and R 2 is the bivalent radical of formula (2d);
  • R 3 is hydrogen; d-C 6 alkyl; or CrC 6 alkoxy;
  • R 4 is hydrogen; or C r C 4 alkyl;
  • R 5 and R 6 independently from each other are CrC 8 alkyl; n is 0; or 1; and p is a number from 0 to 5.
  • the fluoren derivative (a 4 ) is preferably selected from derivatives of cyano(9H-fluoren-9- ylidene)acetic acid, and diesters and polyesters of 9H-fluoren-ylidene malonic acid. These compounds are disclosed in US 2004/0057912.
  • component (a 4 ) is used as component (a 4 ) in the present invention.
  • naphthalene dicarboxylic acid derivatives (a 5 ) preferably correspond to the formula
  • Ri is a radical of formula (4a) k is a number from 1 to 13;
  • R 2 is selected from the group consisting of a compound of formula (4a), or Ci-C 22 alkyl.
  • compounds of the formula are preferably used as component (a 5 ) in the present invention.
  • Dragosine, green tea concentrate and grape seed extract are typical representatives for stabilizers (a 6 ).
  • phenolic antioxidants as listed in the Table below are useful stabilizer components (a 7 ) in the present invention:
  • the stabilizers disclosed in the following references can advantageously be used in the present composition: US 2004057914; WO 2003039506;DE 10141473; WO 2003020317; WO 2003020224; US 2002197285; EP 1127569; EP 1127568; FR 2801209; FR 2801207; "A new photostabilizer for full spectrum sunscreens", Cosmetics & Toiletries (2000), 115(6), p. 37-45; US 5993789.
  • the stabilizer compounds corresponding to components (ai) to (a 7 ) are used as single components or can be used as mixtures in the present composition consisting of two, three, four or even more of the components (ai) to (a 7 ).
  • an effective amount of a stabilizer in accordance with the present invention is understood to mean an amount sufficient to produce a noteworthy and significant improvement in the photostability of the UV filter combination dibenzoylmethane derivative (b) and amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c).
  • This minimum amount of photostabilizing agent to be employed which can vary depending on the nature of the cos- metically acceptable vehicle used for the composition, can be determined without any difficulty by means of a conventional test for measuring photostability.
  • this UV filter is used in the cosmetic or dermatological composition in a concentration range from 1 to 10 % b.w. of the cosmetic composition.
  • the 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative according to component (c) of the cosmetic or dermatological composition preferably corresponds to formula
  • Ri and R 2 independently from each other are hydrogen; Ci-C 30 alkyl; C 2 -Ci o alkenyl; C 3 -Ci 0 cycloalkyl; or C 3 -Ci o cycloalkenyl; or
  • Ri and R 2 together form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, a 5- or 6-mem- bered heterocyclic ring member;
  • R 3 and R 4 independently from each other, are each CrC 2O alkyl; C 2 -Ci ⁇ alkenyl; C 3 -Ci 0 cyclo- alkyl; C 3 -Ci o cycloalkenyl; C r Ci 2 alkoxy; (d-C 20 )alkoxycarbonyl; C r Ci 2 alkylamino; di(C r Ci 2 )alkylamino; an ar ⁇ l or a heteroaryl radical which is optionally substituted; or a water- solubilizing substituent selected from a carboxylate group, a sulfonate group or an ammonium residue;
  • X is hydrogen; -COOR 5 ; or -CONR 6 R 7 ;
  • R 5 , R 6 and R 7 independently from each other, are hydrogen; CrC 2O alkyl; C 2 -Ci ⁇ alkenyl; C 3 - Ciocycloalkyl; C 3 -Ci ocycloalkenyl, -(Y 1 O) 0 -Z 1 ; or aryl;
  • Y 1 is -(CH 2 J 2 -; -(CH 2 J 3 -; -(CH 2 J 4 -; or -CH-(CH 3 J-CH 2 -; Z 1 is -CH 2 -CH 3 ; -CH 2 -CH 2 CH 3 ; -CH 2 CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 3 or -CH(CH 3 J-CH 3 ; n is an integer from 0 to 3; and o is an integer from 1 to 2.
  • CrC 2O alkyl is for example methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, 1-methylethyl, n-butyl, 1-methylpropyl, 2- methylpropyl, 1,1-dimethyl-ethyl, n-pentyl, 1 -methyl butyl, 2-methyl butyl, 3-methyl-butyl, 2,2- dimethylpropyl, 1 -ethyl propyl, n-hexyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 1,2-di methyl propyl, 1-methyl- pentyl, 2-methyl pentyl, 3-methylpentyl, 4-methylpentyl, 1,1-dimethylbutyl, 1,2-dimethylbutyl, 1 ,3-dimethylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylbutyl, 2,3-dimethylbutyl, 3,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-ethylbutyl, 2- ethylbutyl, 1,2,2-trimethyl
  • C 2 -Ci O alkenyl is for example: vinyl, n-propenyl, isopropenyl, 1-butenyl, 2-butenyl, 1-pentenyl, 2-pentenyl, 2-methyl- 1-butenyl, 2-methyl-2-butenyl, 3-methyl- 1-butenyl, 1-hexenyl, 2- hexenyl, 1-heptenyl, 2-heptenyl, 1-octenyl or 2-octenyl.
  • Ci-Ci 2 alkoxy is for example methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, n-butoxy, n-pentoxy, 1-methyl- propoxy, 3-methyl butoxy, 2,2-dimethylpropoxy, 1 -methyl- 1 -ethyl propoxy, octoxy, 2-methyl- propoxy, 1,1-dimethylpropoxy, hexoxy, heptoxy or 2-ethylhexoxy.
  • C 3 -Ci ocycloalkyl is for example cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, 1-methylcyclo-propyl, 1-ethylcyclopropyl, 1-propylcyclopropyl, 1-butylcyclopropyl, 1-pentyl- cyclopropyl, 1-methyl-1-butylcyclopropyl, 1,2-dimethylcyclopropyl, 1 -methyl-2-ethylcyclopro- pyl, cyclooctyl, cyclononyl or cyclodecyl.
  • C 3 -Ci ocycloalkenyl is for example cyclopropenyl, cyclobutenyl, cyclopentenyl, cyclopenta- dienyl, cyclohexenyl, 1,3-cyclohexadienyl, 1,4-cyclohexadienyl, cycloheptenyl, cyclohepta- trienyl, cyclooctenyl, 1,5-cyclooctadienyl, cyclooctatetraenyl, cyclononenyl or cyclodecenyl.
  • the cycloalkyl or cycloalkenyl radicals can comprise one or more substituents (preferably from 1 to 3) and are selected, for example, from halogen, such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine; cyano; nitro; amino; Ci-C 4 alkylamino; di(C r C 4 )alkylamino; d-C 4 alkyl; C r C 4 alkoxy; or hydroxyl. They can also comprise from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, such as sulphur, oxygen or nitrogen, the free valencies of which can be occupied by a hydrogen or a C r C 4 alkyl radical.
  • the aryl groups are preferably chosen from phenyl or naphthyl rings which can comprise one or more substituents (preferably from 1 to 3) chosen, for example, from halogen, such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine; cyano; nitro; amino; Ci-C 4 alkylamino; di(Ci-C 4 )alkylamino; d- C 4 alkyl; C r C 4 alkoxy; or hydroxyl. Preference is more particularly given to phenyl, methoxyphenyl and naphthyl.
  • the heteroaryl groups generally comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from sulphur, oxygen or nitrogen.
  • the water-solubilizing groups are, for example, carboxylate or sulphonate groups and more particularly their salts with physiologically acceptable cations, such as alkali metal salts or tri- alkylammonium salts, such as tri(hydroxyalkyl)-ammonium or 2-methylpropan-1-ol-2-ammo- nium salts. Mention may also be made of ammonium groups, such as alkylammoniums, and their salified forms with physiologically acceptable anions.
  • the amino groups can be attached to the benzene ring in the ortho, meta or para position with respect to the carbonyl radical and more preferably in the para position.
  • the 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (b) in the cosmetic or dermatological composition corresponds to formula
  • Ri and R 2 independently from each other, are hydrogen; or C r C 8 alkyl; or together form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, a 5- or 6-membered heterocyclic ring member; and R 5 is hydrogen; d-C 5 alkyl; or a C 3 -C 6 cycloalkyl.
  • component (b) is used as component (b) in the cosmetic or dermatological composition.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives according to compnent (b) according to the present invention are products which are already well known per se and which are disclosed in particular in FR 2,326,405, FR 2,440,933 and EP 0,114,607, the teachings of which documents are, insofar as they affect the actual definition of these products, entirely included by way of references in the present description.
  • dibenzoylmethane derivatives (b) are: 2-methyldibenzoylmethane; 4-methyl- dibenzoylmethane; 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane; 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane; 2,4-di- methyldibenzoylmethane; 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane; 4,4 1 -diisopropyldibenzoylmethane;
  • Another preferred dibenzoylmethane derivative according to the present invention is 4-iso- propyldibenzoylmethane, a screening agent sold under the name of "Eusolex 8020" by Merck and corresponding to the formula
  • the dibenzoylmethane derivative (b) isresent in the compositions in accordance with the invention at contents preferably ranging from 0.3 to 10 % by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to n10 % by weight and more particularly from 0.5 to 8 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least
  • a stabilizing agent selected from a diphenylacrylate UV filter (ai), a benzylidene cmphor derivative (a 2 ), an organosiloxane comrising benzalemalonate groups (a 3 ), a fluoren derivative (a 4 ), and a naphthalene dicarboxylic acid derivative (a 5 ); 2.0 to 5 % b.w of a dibenzoylmethane derivative (b); and 0.3 to 10 % b.w. of an amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c); is a further object of the present invention.
  • a stabilizing agent selected from a diphenylacrylate UV filter (ai), a benzylidene cmphor derivative (a 2 ), an organosiloxane comrising benzalemalonate groups (a 3 ), a fluoren derivative (a 4 ), and a naphthalene dicarboxylic acid derivative (a 5
  • compositions according to the present invention comprising components (a), (b) and (c) are particularly suitable as UV filters, i.e. for protecting UV-sen- sitive organic materials, in particular the skin and hair of humans and animals, from the harmful effects of UV radiation. These compositions are therefore suitable as sunscreens in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and veterinary medical preparations.
  • the cosmetic formulations or dermatological compositions according to the present invention may additionally contain one or more than one further UV filter as listed in Table 1.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations can be prepared by physically mixing the UV absorber(s) with the adjuvant using customary methods, for example by simply stirring to ⁇ gether the individual components, especially by making use of the dissolution properties of already known cosmetic UV absorbers, like octyl methoxy cinnamate, salicylic acid isooctyl ester etc..
  • the stabilizing agents (ai) - (a 7 ) can also be used for tabilizing the specific amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c). This is another object of the present invention.
  • Cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations contain from 0.05-40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of the UV filter compontents (a), (b) and (c).
  • mixing ratios of from 20:80 to 80:20, preferably from 40:60 to 60:40 and most preferably approximately 50:50.
  • Such mixtures can be used, inter alia, to improve the solubility or to increase the UV absorption.
  • the UV filter compounds (a), (b) and (c) according to the present invention as well as the additional filters listed in Table 1 can be used either in the dissolved state (soluble organic filters, solubelized organic filters) or in the micronised state (nanoscalar organic filters, particulate organic filters, UV-absorber pigments).
  • Any known process suitable for the preparation of microparticles can be used for the pre ⁇ paration of the micronised UV absorbers, for example wet-milling, wet-kneading, spray- drying from a suitable solvent, by the expansion according to the RESS process (Rapid Expansion of Supercritical Solutions) of supercritical fluids (e.g.
  • milling apparatus for the preparation of the micronised organic UV absorbers there may be used, for example, a jet mill, ball mill, vibratory mill or hammer mill, preferably a high ⁇ speed mixing mill.
  • the grinding is preferably carried out with a grinding aid.
  • kneading apparatus for the preparation of the micronised organic UV absorbers examples are typically sigma-hook batch kneaders but also serial batch kneaders (IKA-Werke) or continuous kneaders (Contiuna from Werner und Pfleiderer).
  • Useful low molecular weight grinding aids for the micronizing processes mentioned above are surfactants and emulsifies.
  • Useful polymeric grinding aids for water dispersion are cosmetically acceptable water soluble polymers with Mn > 500 g/mol, for example acrylates (Salcare types), modified or non- modified polysaccharides, polyglucosides or xanthan gum. Furthermore an alkylated vinylpyrrolidone polymer, a vi nyl pyrrol idone/vinyl acetate copolymer, an acyl glutamate, an alkyl polyglucoside, ceteareth-25 or a phospholipid may be used. Oil dispersions may contain cosmetically acceptable waxy polymers or natural waxes as polymeric grinding aid in order to adjust viscosity during and after processing. Examples of other useful polymeric grinding aids are dieclosed below in the chapter "polymers”.
  • Useful solvents for the grinding process are water, brine, (poly-)ethylenglycol, glycerine or cosmetically acceptable oils.
  • Other useful sovents are disclosed below in the chapters “esters of fatty acids”, “natural and synthetic triglycerides including glyceryl esters and derivatives”, “perlescent waxes”, “hydrocarbon oils” and “silicones or siloxanes”.
  • the micronised UV absorbers so obtained usually have an average particle size from 0.02 to 2, preferably from 0.03 to 1.5, and more especially from 0.05 to 1.0 micrometer.
  • the UV absorbers used in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present in ⁇ vention can also be used as dry substrates in powder form.
  • the UV absor ⁇ bers are subjected to known grinding methods, such as vacuum atomization, countercurrent spray-drying etc.
  • UV absorbers used in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present in ⁇ vention can also be used in specific carriers for cosmetics, for example in solid lipid nano- particles (SLN) or in inert sol-gel microcapsules wherein the UV absorbers are encapsulated (Pharmazie, 2001 (56), p. 783-786).
  • SSN solid lipid nano- particles
  • sol-gel microcapsules wherein the UV absorbers are encapsulated
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations may be, for example, creams, gels, lotions, al ⁇ coholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax/fat compositions, stick preparations, powders or ointments.
  • the cosmetic or pharma- ceutical preparations may contain further adjuvants as described below.
  • the preparations contain, for example, from 0.1 to 30 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15 % by weight and especially from 0.5 to 10 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a UV absorber composition comprising the components (a), (b) and (c), from 1 to 60 % by weight, especially from 5 to 50 % by weight and preferably from 10 to 35 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil com ⁇ ponent, from 0 to 30 % by weight, especially from 1 to 30 % by weight und preferably from 4 to 20 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one emulsifier, from 10 to 90 % by weight, especially from 30 to 90 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations may be, for example, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax/fat compositions, stick prepa ⁇ rations, powders or ointments.
  • the cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations may contain further adjuvants as described below.
  • water- and oil-containing emulsions e.g.
  • the preparations contain, for example, from 0.1 to 30 % by weight, pre ⁇ ferably from 0.1 to 15 % by weight and especially from 0.5 to 10 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more UV absorbers, from 1 to 60 % by weight, especially from 5 to 50 % by weight and preferably from 10 to 35 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil component, from 0 to 30 % by weight, especially from 1 to 30 % by weight und preferably from 4 to 20 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one emulsifier, from 10 to 90 % by weight, especially from 30 to 90 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of water, and from 0 to 88.9 % by weight, especially from 1 to 50 % by weight, of further cosmetically acceptable adjuvants
  • the cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions/preparations according to the invention may also contain one or one more additional compounds like fatty alcohols, natural or synthetic triglycerides including glyceryl esters and derivatives, pearlescent waxes, hydrocarbon oils, silicones or siloxanes (organosubstituted polysiloxanes), fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, mulsifiers, super-fatting agents, surfactants, consistency regulators/thickeners and rheology modifiers, polymers, biogenic active ingredients, deodorising active ingredients, anti-dandruff agents, antioxidants, hydrotropic agents, preservatives and bacteria-inhibiting agents, perfume oils, colourants, and polymeric beads or hollow spheres as SPF enhancers.
  • additional compounds like fatty alcohols, natural or synthetic triglycerides including glyceryl esters and derivatives, pearlescent waxes, hydrocarbon oils, silicones or siloxanes (organosubstituted polysiloxanes), fluorin
  • Cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations are contained in a wide variety of cosmetic preparations. There come into consideration, for example, especially the following preparations:
  • skin-care preparations e.g. skin-washing and cleansing preparations in the form of tablet-form or liquid soaps, soapless detergents or washing pastes, bath preparations, e.g. liquid (foam baths, milks, shower preparations) or solid bath preparations, e.g. bath cubes and bath salts; - skin-care preparations, e.g. skin emulsions, multi-emulsions or skin oils; cosmetic personal care preparations, e.g. facial make-up in the form of day creams or powder creams, face powder (loose or pressed), rouge or cream make-up, eye-care preparations, e.g.
  • eyeshadow preparations mascara, eyeliner, eye creams or eye-fix creams
  • lip-care preparations e.g. lipsticks, lip gloss, lip contour pencils, nail-care preparations, such as nail varnish, nail varnish removers, nail hardeners or cuticle removers
  • foot-care preparations e.g. foot baths, foot powders, foot creams or foot balsams, special deodorants and antiperspirants or callus-removing preparations
  • - light-protective preparations such as sun milks, lotions, creams or oils, sunblocks or tropicals, pre-tanning preparations or after-sun preparations
  • skin-tanning preparations e.g.
  • depigmenting preparations e.g. preparations for bleaching the skin or skin-lightening preparations
  • - insect-repellents e.g. insect-repellent oils, lotions, sprays or sticks
  • deodorants such as deodorant sprays, pump-action sprays, deodorant gels, sticks or roll-ons
  • antiperspirants e.g. antiperspirant sticks, creams or roll-ons
  • preparations for cleansing and caring for blemished skin e.g. synthetic detergents (solid or liquid), peeling or scrub preparations or peeling masks
  • hair-removal preparations in chemical form (depilation) e.g.
  • hair-removing powders liquid hair-removing preparations, cream- or paste-form hair-removing preparations, hair- removing preparations in gel form or aerosol foams
  • shaving preparations e.g. shaving soap, foaming shaving creams, non-foaming shaving creams, foams and gels, preshave preparations for dry shaving, aftershaves or aftershave lotions
  • fragrance preparations e.g. fragrances (eau de Cologne, eau de toilette, eau de perfume, perfume de toilette, perfume), perfume oils or perfume creams
  • cosmetic hair-treatment preparations e.g. hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos and conditioners, hair-care preparations, e.g.
  • pretreatment preparations hair tonics, styling creams, styling gels, pomades, hair rinses, treatment packs, intensive hair treatments, hair-structuring preparations, e.g. hair-waving preparations for permanent waves (hot wave, mild wave, cold wave), hair-straightening preparations, liquid hair- setting preparations, hair foams, hairsprays, bleaching preparations, e.g. hydrogen per- oxide solutions, lightening shampoos, bleaching creams, bleaching powders, bleaching pastes or oils, temporary, semi-permanent or permanent hair colourants, preparations containing self-oxidising dyes, or natural hair colourants, such as henna or camomile.
  • hair-structuring preparations e.g. hair-waving preparations for permanent waves (hot wave, mild wave, cold wave), hair-straightening preparations, liquid hair- setting preparations, hair foams, hairsprays, bleaching preparations, e.g. hydrogen per- oxide solutions, lightening shampoos, bleaching cream
  • the final formulations listed may exist in a wide variety of presentation forms, for example: in the form of liquid preparations as a VWO, O/W, ONSIIO, W/O/W or PIT emulsion and all kinds of microemulsions, in the form of a gel, in the form of an oil, a cream, milk or lotion, in the form of a powder, a lacquer, a tablet or make-up, in the form of a stick, in the form of a spray (spray with propellent gas or pump-action spray) or an aerosol, in the form of a foam, or in the form of a paste.
  • a spray spray with propellent gas or pump-action spray
  • aerosol aerosol
  • cosmetic preparations for the skin are light-protective preparations, such as sun milks, lotions, creams, oils, sunblocks or tropicals, pretanning preparations or after-sun preparations, also skin-tanning preparations, for example self-tanning creams.
  • light-protective preparations such as sun milks, lotions, creams, oils, sunblocks or tropicals
  • pretanning preparations or after-sun preparations also skin-tanning preparations, for example self-tanning creams.
  • sun protection creams, sun protection lotions, sun protection milk and sun protection preparations in the form of a spray are particularly interested.
  • hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos, hair conditioners, hair-care preparations, e.g. pretreatment preparations, hair tonics, styling creams, styling gels, pomades, hair rinses, treatment packs, intensive hair treatments, hair- straightening preparations, liquid hair-setting preparations, hair foams and hairsprays.
  • hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos.
  • a shampoo has, for example, the following composition: from 0.01 to 5 % by weight of a UV absorber composition according to the invention comprising the components (a), (b) and (c), 12.0 % by weight of sodium laureth-2-sulfate, 4.0 % by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, 3.0 % by weight of sodium chloride, and water ad 100%.
  • a UV absorber composition according to the invention comprising the components (a), (b) and (c), 12.0 % by weight of sodium laureth-2-sulfate, 4.0 % by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, 3.0 % by weight of sodium chloride, and water ad 100%.
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention is distinguished by excellent protection of human skin against the damaging effect of sunlight.
  • composition (A) is applied on rough quarz-plates (2 ⁇ l/cm 2 ).
  • Solvent B Acetonitrile / THF 9: 1 + 2g/l TBAHS temperature: 35°C wavelength: 354nm (for Detection of the compound of formula (101))

Abstract

Diclosed is the use of an effective photo-stabilizing amount of stabilizing agent (a) selected from a diphenylacrylate UV filter (a1), a benzylidene amphor derivative (a2), an organosiloxane comrising benzalemalonate groups (a3), a fluoren derivative (a4), and a naphthalene dicarboxylic acid derivative (a5) for improving the stability with respect to UV radiation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a UV filter combination of at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative (b) and of at least one specific amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c).

Description

Photo-stable cosmetic or dermatological compositions
The present invention relates to the use of a specific stabilizing agent (a) for improving the stability with respect to UV radiation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a UV filter combination of at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative (b) and of at least one specific amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c).
It has long been known that prolonged exposure to UV radiation can lead to the formation of erythemas or light dermatoses, as well as to an increased incidence of skin cancers or accelerated skin ageing.
Various sunscreen formulations have been proposed which include materials which are in¬ tended to counteract UV radiation, thereby inhibiting the said undesired effects on the skin.
A great number of compounds have been proposed for use as UV protectants in sunscreen formulations.
In this respect, a particular advantageous family of UV-A screening agents is currently com¬ posed of dibenzoylmethane derivatives and in particular 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl- methane; this is because these derivatives exhibit a high intrinsic absorbance. Dibenzoyl- methane derivatives are well known per se as screening agents actives in the UV-A region, and are disclosed in particular in FR-A-2 326 405, FR-A-2 440 933 and EP-A-O 114 607. Furthermore, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane is currently offered for sale under the trademark of "Parsol 1789" by DSM.
Unfortunately, it is found that dibenzoylmethane derivatives are relatively sensitive to UV radiation (in particular UV-A radiation), AND more specifically, that they have an unfortunate tendency to more or less rapid decomposition under the effect of the latter. Thus, this substantial lack of photochemical stability of dibenzoylmethane derivatives with respect to UV radiation does not make it possible to guarantee constant protection during prolonged exposure to the sun, so that repeated sun screen applications at regular and frequent intervals have to be carried out by the user in order to obtain effective protection of the skin against UV radiation. The photostabilization of dibenzoylmethane derivatives with respect to UV radiation con¬ stitutes a problem, which has not yet been solved until now in a completely satisfactory manner.
In US 6,699,461 it is is suggested to improve the photochemical stability of dibenzoyl¬ methane derivatives containing cosmetic or dermatological compositions with specific amino- substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivatives. These compositions do not comprise p-methyl benzyl idenecamphor.
Unfortunately, the addition of a 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative in cosmetic or derma¬ tological compositions photo-stabilizes the dibenzoylmethane derivative but simultaneously destabilizes the 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative.
Surprisingly it was found, that the addition of specific amounts of a specific stabilizing agent will significantly improve the photostability of cosmetic or dermatological compositions com¬ prising the combination of 2-hydroxybenzophenone and dibenzoylmethane derivatives.
Therefore, the present invention relates to the use of an effective photo-stabilizing amount of stabilizing agent (a) selected from a diphenylacrylate UV filter (ai), a benzyl idene camphor derivative (a2), an organosiloxane comrising benzalemalonate groups (a3), a fluoren derivative (a4), a naphthalene dicarboxylic acid derivative (a5) a natural occurring stabilizer (a6); and a phenolic antioxidant (a7); for improving the stability with respect to UV radiation of a cosmetic or dermatological com¬ position comprising a UV filter combination of at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative (b) and of at least one specific amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c).
The diphenylacrylate UV filter (ai) which is used in the present invention for the stabilization of cosmetic or dermatological composition is preferably selected from 2-ethylhexyl 2- cyano,3,3-diphenylacrylate which corresponds to the
formula (1) (Octocrylene).
Suitable benzylidene camphor derivatives (a2) are disclosed in US-A-5,605,680.
Preferably, p-methylbenzylidene camphor is used in the present invention as component (a2).
The organosiloxane comprising benzalemalonate groups (a3) preferably correspond to the formula
(2b) , wherein
R is CrCiOalkyl; phenyl; or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, at least 80% of the number of the R radicals being methyl radicals; r is an integer rom O to 200; s is an integer rom 0 to 50 u is an integer from 1 to 20; t is an integer from 0 to 20; wherein t + u is equal to or greater than 3; and. A and/or B is a benzalmalonate radical.
A is preferably the radical of formula (2c) X.5 , wherein Ri and R2 are each hydrogen; OH; trimethylsiloxy; CrC6alkyl; CrC6alkoxy; or a radical of the
H formula (2d) -(O)-(CH2)p-C-CH2- ;
R4 with the proviso that one of the radicals Ri and R2 is the bivalent radical of formula (2d); R3 is hydrogen; d-C6alkyl; or CrC6alkoxy; R4 is hydrogen; or CrC4alkyl; and
R5 and R6, independently from each other are CrC8alkyl; n is 0; or 1; and p is a number from 0 to 5.
The fluoren derivative (a4) is preferably selected from derivatives of cyano(9H-fluoren-9- ylidene)acetic acid, and diesters and polyesters of 9H-fluoren-ylidene malonic acid. These compounds are disclosed in US 2004/0057912.
Preferably, a 9-methylene-9H-fluoren derivative of formula
is used as component (a4) in the present invention.
The naphthalene dicarboxylic acid derivatives (a5) preferably correspond to the formula
(4) R1O9C-(K ^T H — C09R9 • wherein
Ri is a radical of formula (4a) k is a number from 1 to 13; and
R2 is selected from the group consisting of a compound of formula (4a), or Ci-C22alkyl.
The compounds are disclosed in WO 01/087528.
Preferably, compounds of the formula are preferably used as component (a5) in the present invention.
Dragosine, green tea concentrate and grape seed extract. are typical representatives for stabilizers (a6).
The phenolic antioxidants as listed in the Table below are useful stabilizer components (a7) in the present invention:
Furthermore, the stabilizers disclosed in the following references, can advantageously be used in the present composition: US 2004057914; WO 2003039506;DE 10141473; WO 2003020317; WO 2003020224; US 2002197285; EP 1127569; EP 1127568; FR 2801209; FR 2801207; "A new photostabilizer for full spectrum sunscreens", Cosmetics & Toiletries (2000), 115(6), p. 37-45; US 5993789. The stabilizer compounds corresponding to components (ai) to (a7) are used as single components or can be used as mixtures in the present composition consisting of two, three, four or even more of the components (ai) to (a7).
The term "effective amount of a stabilizer " in accordance with the present invention is understood to mean an amount sufficient to produce a noteworthy and significant improvement in the photostability of the UV filter combination dibenzoylmethane derivative (b) and amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c). This minimum amount of photostabilizing agent to be employed, which can vary depending on the nature of the cos- metically acceptable vehicle used for the composition, can be determined without any difficulty by means of a conventional test for measuring photostability.
Preferably, this UV filter is used in the cosmetic or dermatological composition in a concentration range from 1 to 10 % b.w. of the cosmetic composition.
The 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative according to component (c) of the cosmetic or dermatological composition preferably corresponds to formula
(5) wherein
Ri and R2, independently from each other are hydrogen; Ci-C30alkyl; C2-Ci oalkenyl; C3-Ci0 cycloalkyl; or C3-Ci ocycloalkenyl; or
Ri and R2 together form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, a 5- or 6-mem- bered heterocyclic ring member;
R3 and R4, independently from each other, are each CrC2Oalkyl; C2-Ciθalkenyl; C3-Ci0cyclo- alkyl; C3-Ci ocycloalkenyl; CrCi2alkoxy; (d-C20)alkoxycarbonyl; CrCi2alkylamino; di(Cr Ci2)alkylamino; an arγl or a heteroaryl radical which is optionally substituted; or a water- solubilizing substituent selected from a carboxylate group, a sulfonate group or an ammonium residue;
X is hydrogen; -COOR5; or -CONR6R7;
R5, R6 and R7, independently from each other, are hydrogen; CrC2Oalkyl; C2-Ciθalkenyl; C3- Ciocycloalkyl; C3-Ci ocycloalkenyl, -(Y1O)0-Z1; or aryl;
Y1 is -(CH2J2-; -(CH2J3-; -(CH2J4-; or -CH-(CH3J-CH2-; Z1 is -CH2-CH3; -CH2-CH2CH3; -CH2CH2-CH2-CH3 or -CH(CH3J-CH3; n is an integer from 0 to 3; and o is an integer from 1 to 2.
CrC2Oalkyl is for example methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, 1-methylethyl, n-butyl, 1-methylpropyl, 2- methylpropyl, 1,1-dimethyl-ethyl, n-pentyl, 1 -methyl butyl, 2-methyl butyl, 3-methyl-butyl, 2,2- dimethylpropyl, 1 -ethyl propyl, n-hexyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 1,2-di methyl propyl, 1-methyl- pentyl, 2-methyl pentyl, 3-methylpentyl, 4-methylpentyl, 1,1-dimethylbutyl, 1,2-dimethylbutyl, 1 ,3-dimethylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylbutyl, 2,3-dimethylbutyl, 3,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-ethylbutyl, 2- ethylbutyl, 1,2,2-trimethylpropyl, 1-ethyl-1-methylpropyl, 1 -ethyl-2-methyl propyl, n-heptyl, n- octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tridecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-pentadecyl, n- hexadecyl, n-heptadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-nonadecyl or n-icosyl.
C2-CiOalkenyl is for example: vinyl, n-propenyl, isopropenyl, 1-butenyl, 2-butenyl, 1-pentenyl, 2-pentenyl, 2-methyl- 1-butenyl, 2-methyl-2-butenyl, 3-methyl- 1-butenyl, 1-hexenyl, 2- hexenyl, 1-heptenyl, 2-heptenyl, 1-octenyl or 2-octenyl.
Ci-Ci2alkoxy is for example methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, n-butoxy, n-pentoxy, 1-methyl- propoxy, 3-methyl butoxy, 2,2-dimethylpropoxy, 1 -methyl- 1 -ethyl propoxy, octoxy, 2-methyl- propoxy, 1,1-dimethylpropoxy, hexoxy, heptoxy or 2-ethylhexoxy.
C3-Ci ocycloalkyl is for example cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, 1-methylcyclo-propyl, 1-ethylcyclopropyl, 1-propylcyclopropyl, 1-butylcyclopropyl, 1-pentyl- cyclopropyl, 1-methyl-1-butylcyclopropyl, 1,2-dimethylcyclopropyl, 1 -methyl-2-ethylcyclopro- pyl, cyclooctyl, cyclononyl or cyclodecyl.
C3-Ci ocycloalkenyl is for example cyclopropenyl, cyclobutenyl, cyclopentenyl, cyclopenta- dienyl, cyclohexenyl, 1,3-cyclohexadienyl, 1,4-cyclohexadienyl, cycloheptenyl, cyclohepta- trienyl, cyclooctenyl, 1,5-cyclooctadienyl, cyclooctatetraenyl, cyclononenyl or cyclodecenyl.
The cycloalkyl or cycloalkenyl radicals can comprise one or more substituents (preferably from 1 to 3) and are selected, for example, from halogen, such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine; cyano; nitro; amino; Ci-C4alkylamino; di(CrC4)alkylamino; d-C4alkyl; CrC4alkoxy; or hydroxyl. They can also comprise from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, such as sulphur, oxygen or nitrogen, the free valencies of which can be occupied by a hydrogen or a CrC4alkyl radical.
The aryl groups are preferably chosen from phenyl or naphthyl rings which can comprise one or more substituents (preferably from 1 to 3) chosen, for example, from halogen, such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine; cyano; nitro; amino; Ci-C4alkylamino; di(Ci-C4)alkylamino; d- C4alkyl; CrC4alkoxy; or hydroxyl. Preference is more particularly given to phenyl, methoxyphenyl and naphthyl.
The heteroaryl groups generally comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from sulphur, oxygen or nitrogen.
The water-solubilizing groups are, for example, carboxylate or sulphonate groups and more particularly their salts with physiologically acceptable cations, such as alkali metal salts or tri- alkylammonium salts, such as tri(hydroxyalkyl)-ammonium or 2-methylpropan-1-ol-2-ammo- nium salts. Mention may also be made of ammonium groups, such as alkylammoniums, and their salified forms with physiologically acceptable anions.
Mention may in particular be made, as examples of the 5- or 6-membered heterocyclic ring member; formed by the Riand R2 with the nitrogen atom, of pyrrolidine or piperidine.
The amino groups can be attached to the benzene ring in the ortho, meta or para position with respect to the carbonyl radical and more preferably in the para position.
Preferably, the 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (b) in the cosmetic or dermatological composition corresponds to formula
(6) wherein
Ri and R2, independently from each other, are hydrogen; or CrC8alkyl; or together form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, a 5- or 6-membered heterocyclic ring member; and R5 is hydrogen; d-C5alkyl; or a C3-C6cycloalkyl.
Most preferably the compound of formula
is used as component (b) in the cosmetic or dermatological composition.
The dibenzoyl methane derivatives according to compnent (b) according to the present invention are products which are already well known per se and which are disclosed in particular in FR 2,326,405, FR 2,440,933 and EP 0,114,607, the teachings of which documents are, insofar as they affect the actual definition of these products, entirely included by way of references in the present description.
According to the present invention, it is possible, of course, to employ one or more dibenzoyl- methane derivatives.
Examples of dibenzoylmethane derivatives (b) are: 2-methyldibenzoylmethane; 4-methyl- dibenzoylmethane; 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane; 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane; 2,4-di- methyldibenzoylmethane; 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane; 4,41-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane;
4,4'-dimethoxydibenzoylmethane; 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane; 2-methyl-5-iso- propyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane; 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane;
2,4-dimethyl-41-methoxydibenzoylmethane; or 2,6-dimethyl-4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl- methane.
Preference is very particularly given according to the present invention, among the above- mentioned dibenzoylmethane derivatives, to the use of 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl- methane, in particular that offered for sale under the trademark of "Parsol 1789" by Hoff- mann-LaRoche, this screening agent corresponding to the following formula
Another preferred dibenzoylmethane derivative according to the present invention is 4-iso- propyldibenzoylmethane, a screening agent sold under the name of "Eusolex 8020" by Merck and corresponding to the formula
(9) ; or 4-Ethylhexyl-4'Methoxydibenzoylmethane
corresponding to formula
The dibenzoylmethane derivative (b) isresent in the compositions in accordance with the invention at contents preferably ranging from 0.3 to 10 % by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to n10 % by weight and more particularly from 0.5 to 8 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least
1 to 10 % b.w of a stabilizing agent (a) selected from a diphenylacrylate UV filter (ai), a benzylidene cmphor derivative (a2), an organosiloxane comrising benzalemalonate groups (a3), a fluoren derivative (a4), and a naphthalene dicarboxylic acid derivative (a5); 2.0 to 5 % b.w of a dibenzoylmethane derivative (b); and 0.3 to 10 % b.w. of an amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c); is a further object of the present invention. The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the present invention comprising components (a), (b) and (c) are particularly suitable as UV filters, i.e. for protecting UV-sen- sitive organic materials, in particular the skin and hair of humans and animals, from the harmful effects of UV radiation. These compositions are therefore suitable as sunscreens in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and veterinary medical preparations.
The cosmetic formulations or dermatological compositions according to the present invention may additionally contain one or more than one further UV filter as listed in Table 1.
The cosmetic or dermatological preparations can be prepared by physically mixing the UV absorber(s) with the adjuvant using customary methods, for example by simply stirring to¬ gether the individual components, especially by making use of the dissolution properties of already known cosmetic UV absorbers, like octyl methoxy cinnamate, salicylic acid isooctyl ester etc..
The stabilizing agents (ai) - (a7) can also be used for tabilizing the specific amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c). This is another object of the present invention.
Cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations contain from 0.05-40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of the UV filter compontents (a), (b) and (c).
Preference is given to the use of mixing ratios of the UV filter components (a), (b) and (c) according to the present invention and optionally further light-protective agents (as described in Table 2) from 1 :99 to 99:1, preferably from 1 :95 to 95:1 and most preferably from 10:90 to 90:10, based on weight. Of special interest are mixing ratios of from 20:80 to 80:20, preferably from 40:60 to 60:40 and most preferably approximately 50:50. Such mixtures can be used, inter alia, to improve the solubility or to increase the UV absorption.
The UV filter compounds (a), (b) and (c) according to the present invention as well as the additional filters listed in Table 1 can be used either in the dissolved state (soluble organic filters, solubelized organic filters) or in the micronised state (nanoscalar organic filters, particulate organic filters, UV-absorber pigments). Any known process suitable for the preparation of microparticles can be used for the pre¬ paration of the micronised UV absorbers, for example wet-milling, wet-kneading, spray- drying from a suitable solvent, by the expansion according to the RESS process (Rapid Expansion of Supercritical Solutions) of supercritical fluids (e.g. CO2) in which the UV filter or filters is/are dissolved, by reprecipitation from suitable solvents, including supercritical fluids (GASR process = Gas Anti-Solvent Recrystallisation / PCA process = Precipitation with Compressed Anti-solvents).
As milling apparatus for the preparation of the micronised organic UV absorbers there may be used, for example, a jet mill, ball mill, vibratory mill or hammer mill, preferably a high¬ speed mixing mill. The grinding is preferably carried out with a grinding aid. As kneading apparatus for the preparation of the micronised organic UV absorbers examples are typically sigma-hook batch kneaders but also serial batch kneaders (IKA-Werke) or continuous kneaders (Contiuna from Werner und Pfleiderer).
Useful low molecular weight grinding aids for the micronizing processes mentioned above are surfactants and emulsifies.
Useful polymeric grinding aids for water dispersion are cosmetically acceptable water soluble polymers with Mn > 500 g/mol, for example acrylates (Salcare types), modified or non- modified polysaccharides, polyglucosides or xanthan gum. Furthermore an alkylated vinylpyrrolidone polymer, a vi nyl pyrrol idone/vinyl acetate copolymer, an acyl glutamate, an alkyl polyglucoside, ceteareth-25 or a phospholipid may be used. Oil dispersions may contain cosmetically acceptable waxy polymers or natural waxes as polymeric grinding aid in order to adjust viscosity during and after processing. Examples of other useful polymeric grinding aids are dieclosed below in the chapter "polymers".
Useful solvents for the grinding process are water, brine, (poly-)ethylenglycol, glycerine or cosmetically acceptable oils. Other useful sovents are disclosed below in the chapters "esters of fatty acids", "natural and synthetic triglycerides including glyceryl esters and derivatives", "perlescent waxes", "hydrocarbon oils" and "silicones or siloxanes".
The micronised UV absorbers so obtained usually have an average particle size from 0.02 to 2, preferably from 0.03 to 1.5, and more especially from 0.05 to 1.0 micrometer. The UV absorbers used in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present in¬ vention can also be used as dry substrates in powder form. For that purpose the UV absor¬ bers are subjected to known grinding methods, such as vacuum atomization, countercurrent spray-drying etc.
The UV absorbers used in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present in¬ vention can also be used in specific carriers for cosmetics, for example in solid lipid nano- particles (SLN) or in inert sol-gel microcapsules wherein the UV absorbers are encapsulated (Pharmazie, 2001 (56), p. 783-786).
The cosmetic or dermatological preparations may be, for example, creams, gels, lotions, al¬ coholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax/fat compositions, stick preparations, powders or ointments. In addition to the above-mentioned UV filters, the cosmetic or pharma- ceutical preparations may contain further adjuvants as described below.
As water- and oil-containing emulsions (e.g. VWO, O/W, 0/W/O and W/O/W emulsions or mi- croemulsions) the preparations contain, for example, from 0.1 to 30 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15 % by weight and especially from 0.5 to 10 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of a UV absorber composition comprising the components (a), (b) and (c), from 1 to 60 % by weight, especially from 5 to 50 % by weight and preferably from 10 to 35 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil com¬ ponent, from 0 to 30 % by weight, especially from 1 to 30 % by weight und preferably from 4 to 20 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one emulsifier, from 10 to 90 % by weight, especially from 30 to 90 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of water, and from 0 to 88.9 % by weight, especially from 1 to 50 % by weight, of further cosmetically acceptable adjuvants.
The cosmetic or dermatological preparations may be, for example, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax/fat compositions, stick prepa¬ rations, powders or ointments. In addition to the above mentioned UV filters, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations may contain further adjuvants as described below. As water- and oil-containing emulsions (e.g. W/O, C7W, ONSIIO and W/O/W emulsions or microemulsions) the preparations contain, for example, from 0.1 to 30 % by weight, pre¬ ferably from 0.1 to 15 % by weight and especially from 0.5 to 10 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of one or more UV absorbers, from 1 to 60 % by weight, especially from 5 to 50 % by weight and preferably from 10 to 35 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil component, from 0 to 30 % by weight, especially from 1 to 30 % by weight und preferably from 4 to 20 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of at least one emulsifier, from 10 to 90 % by weight, especially from 30 to 90 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of water, and from 0 to 88.9 % by weight, especially from 1 to 50 % by weight, of further cosmetically acceptable adjuvants.
The cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions/preparations according to the invention may also contain one or one more additional compounds like fatty alcohols, natural or synthetic triglycerides including glyceryl esters and derivatives, pearlescent waxes, hydrocarbon oils, silicones or siloxanes (organosubstituted polysiloxanes), fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, mulsifiers, super-fatting agents, surfactants, consistency regulators/thickeners and rheology modifiers, polymers, biogenic active ingredients, deodorising active ingredients, anti-dandruff agents, antioxidants, hydrotropic agents, preservatives and bacteria-inhibiting agents, perfume oils, colourants, and polymeric beads or hollow spheres as SPF enhancers.
Cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations are contained in a wide variety of cosmetic preparations. There come into consideration, for example, especially the following preparations:
skin-care preparations, e.g. skin-washing and cleansing preparations in the form of tablet-form or liquid soaps, soapless detergents or washing pastes, bath preparations, e.g. liquid (foam baths, milks, shower preparations) or solid bath preparations, e.g. bath cubes and bath salts; - skin-care preparations, e.g. skin emulsions, multi-emulsions or skin oils; cosmetic personal care preparations, e.g. facial make-up in the form of day creams or powder creams, face powder (loose or pressed), rouge or cream make-up, eye-care preparations, e.g. eyeshadow preparations, mascara, eyeliner, eye creams or eye-fix creams; lip-care preparations, e.g. lipsticks, lip gloss, lip contour pencils, nail-care preparations, such as nail varnish, nail varnish removers, nail hardeners or cuticle removers; foot-care preparations, e.g. foot baths, foot powders, foot creams or foot balsams, special deodorants and antiperspirants or callus-removing preparations; - light-protective preparations, such as sun milks, lotions, creams or oils, sunblocks or tropicals, pre-tanning preparations or after-sun preparations; skin-tanning preparations, e.g. self-tanning creams; depigmenting preparations, e.g. preparations for bleaching the skin or skin-lightening preparations; - insect-repellents, e.g. insect-repellent oils, lotions, sprays or sticks; deodorants, such as deodorant sprays, pump-action sprays, deodorant gels, sticks or roll-ons; antiperspirants, e.g. antiperspirant sticks, creams or roll-ons; preparations for cleansing and caring for blemished skin, e.g. synthetic detergents (solid or liquid), peeling or scrub preparations or peeling masks; hair-removal preparations in chemical form (depilation), e.g. hair-removing powders, liquid hair-removing preparations, cream- or paste-form hair-removing preparations, hair- removing preparations in gel form or aerosol foams; shaving preparations, e.g. shaving soap, foaming shaving creams, non-foaming shaving creams, foams and gels, preshave preparations for dry shaving, aftershaves or aftershave lotions; fragrance preparations, e.g. fragrances (eau de Cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, parfum de toilette, perfume), perfume oils or perfume creams; cosmetic hair-treatment preparations, e.g. hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos and conditioners, hair-care preparations, e.g. pretreatment preparations, hair tonics, styling creams, styling gels, pomades, hair rinses, treatment packs, intensive hair treatments, hair-structuring preparations, e.g. hair-waving preparations for permanent waves (hot wave, mild wave, cold wave), hair-straightening preparations, liquid hair- setting preparations, hair foams, hairsprays, bleaching preparations, e.g. hydrogen per- oxide solutions, lightening shampoos, bleaching creams, bleaching powders, bleaching pastes or oils, temporary, semi-permanent or permanent hair colourants, preparations containing self-oxidising dyes, or natural hair colourants, such as henna or camomile.
The final formulations listed may exist in a wide variety of presentation forms, for example: in the form of liquid preparations as a VWO, O/W, ONSIIO, W/O/W or PIT emulsion and all kinds of microemulsions, in the form of a gel, in the form of an oil, a cream, milk or lotion, in the form of a powder, a lacquer, a tablet or make-up, in the form of a stick, in the form of a spray (spray with propellent gas or pump-action spray) or an aerosol, in the form of a foam, or in the form of a paste.
Of special importance as cosmetic preparations for the skin are light-protective preparations, such as sun milks, lotions, creams, oils, sunblocks or tropicals, pretanning preparations or after-sun preparations, also skin-tanning preparations, for example self-tanning creams. Of particular interest are sun protection creams, sun protection lotions, sun protection milk and sun protection preparations in the form of a spray.
Of special importance as cosmetic preparations for the hair are the above-mentioned prepa¬ rations for hair treatment, especially hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos, hair conditioners, hair-care preparations, e.g. pretreatment preparations, hair tonics, styling creams, styling gels, pomades, hair rinses, treatment packs, intensive hair treatments, hair- straightening preparations, liquid hair-setting preparations, hair foams and hairsprays. Of special interest are hair-washing preparations in the form of shampoos.
A shampoo has, for example, the following composition: from 0.01 to 5 % by weight of a UV absorber composition according to the invention comprising the components (a), (b) and (c), 12.0 % by weight of sodium laureth-2-sulfate, 4.0 % by weight of cocamidopropyl betaine, 3.0 % by weight of sodium chloride, and water ad 100%.
Light/dry cosmetic oils Ingredients 1 2 3 4
The cosmetic preparation according to the invention is distinguished by excellent protection of human skin against the damaging effect of sunlight.
Examples
Preparation of the samples for the determination of the photostability
2% of the compound of formula (101)
(Uvinul A Plus),
5% of the compound of formula (102) (Octocrylene) and
3 % of the compound of formula (103) (Parsol 1789) are dissolved in a cosmetic carrier.
This composition (A) is applied on rough quarz-plates (2 μl/cm2).
The times of irradiation are
- Oh (no irradiation), - 1h (5 MED), - 2h (10 MED),
- 4h (20 MED) and
- 1Oh (50 MED) with an Altas CPS+ sunlight simulator. For sufficient statistics 8 plates per time (x MED) are prepared. After irradiation, the samples can be recovered completely with a defined amount (5 ml) of a solvent (tetrahydrofurane). HPLC:
The recovery of the UV-absorber was analyzed via HPLC:
column: Hypersil ODS 5μm, 250mm x 4mm Solvent A: Water + 2g/l TBAHS
Solvent B: Acetonitrile / THF 9: 1 + 2g/l TBAHS temperature: 35°C wavelength: 354nm (for Detection of the compound of formula (101))
For comparison, the experiment is carried out in the same manner, but with a preparation comprising only
2 % of the compound of formula (101) and
3 % of the compound of formula (103) without the compound of formula (102) (= B).
The results: are listed in Table 2:
The results in Table 2 clearly demonstrate that the addition of the diphenylacrylate UV absorber of formula (102) (= Octocrylene) stabilizes the 2-hydroxybenzophenone UV ab¬ sorber of formula (101) (= Uvinul A Plus) in a UV absorber composition which additionally comprises a UV absorber of formula (103 (= Parsol 1789; Avobenzone)

Claims

Claims:
1. Use of an effective photo-stabilizing amount of a stabilizing agent (a) selected from a diphenylacrylate UV filter (ai), a benzylidene camphor derivative (a2), an organosiloxane comrising benzalemalonate groups (a3), a fluoren derivative (a4), a naphthalene dicarboxylic acid derivative (a5) a natural occurring stabilizer (a6); and a phenolic antioxidant (a7); for improving the stability with respect to UV radiation of a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a UV filter combination of at least one dibenzoylmethane derivative
(b) and of at least one specific amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c).
2. Use according to claim 1 wherein the diphenylacrylate UV filter (ai) is 2-ethylhexyl 2- cyano,3,3-diphenylacrylate of formula
3. Use according to claim 1 , wherein the benzylidene cmphor derivative (a2) is p- methylbenzylidene camphor.
4. Use according to claim 1 , wherein the organosiloxane comprising benzalemalonate groups (a3) corresponds to the formula
(2b) Si-O- -Si-O- , wherein R A
R is CrCiOalkyl; phenyl; or 3,3,3-trifluorpopropyl, at least 80% of the number of the R radicals being methyl radicals; r is an integer rom 0 to 200; s is an integer rom 0 to 50 u is an integer from 1 to 20; t is an integer from 0 to 20; wherein t + u is equal to or greater than 3; and. A and/or B is a benzalmalonate radical.
5. Use according to claim 1 , wherein the fluorein derivative (a4) is selected from derivatives of cyano(9H-fluoren-9-ylidene)acetic acid, and diesters and polyesters of 9H-fluoren- ylidenemalonic acid.
6. Use according to claim 1, wherein the naphthalene dicarboxylic acid derivative (a5) corresponds to the formula
(4) . wherein
Ri is a radical of formula (4a) k is 1 to 13; and
R2 is selected from the group consisting of a compound of formula (4a), or CrC22alkyl.
7. Use according to claim 1 , wherein the natural occurring stabilizer (a6) is selected from dragosine, green tea concentrate and grape seed extract.
8. Use according to any of claims 1 to 7, wherein the stabilizing agent (a) is used in a concentration from 1 to 10 % b.w. of the cosmetic or dermatological composition.
9. Use according to any of claims 1 to 8, wherein the dibenzoylmethane derivative (b) is 4- tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane.
10. Use according to any of claims 1 to 9, wherein the 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c) corresponds to formula
(5) wherein Ri and R2, independently from each other are hydrogen; Ci-C30alkyl; C2-Ci oalkenyl; C3-Ci0 cycloalkyl; or C3-Ci ocycloalkenyl; or Ri and R2 together form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, a 5- or 6-mem- bered heterocyclic ring member;
R3 and R4, independently from each other, are each CrC2Oalkyl; C2-Ciθalkenyl; C3-Ci0cyclo- alkyl; C3-Ci ocycloalkenyl; CrCi2alkoxy; (CrC20)alkoxycarbonyl; Ci-Ci2alkylamino; di(Cr
Ci2)alkylamino; an aryl or a heteroaryl radical which is optionally substituted; or a water- solubilizing substituent selected from a carboxylate group, a sulfonate group or an ammonium residue;
X is hydrogen; -COOR5; or -CONR6R7; R5, R6 and R7, independently from each other, are hydrogen; CrC2Oalkyl; C2-Ciθalkenyl; C3-
Ci0cycloalkyl; C3-Ci ocycloalkenyl, -(Y1O)0-Z1; or aryl; Y1 is -(CH2J2-; -(CH2J3-; -(CH2J4-; or -CH-(CH3J-CH2-;
Z1 is -CH2-CH3; -CH2-CH2CH3; -CH2CH2-CH2-CH3 or -CH(CH3J-CH3; n is an integer from 0 to 3; and o is an integer from 1 to 2.
11. Use according to claim 10, wherein the 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c) corresponds to formula
(6) wherein
Ri and R2, independently from each other, are hydrogen; or d-C8alkyl; or together form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, a 5- or 6-membered heterocyclic ring member; and
R5 is hydrogen; CrC5alkyl; or a C3-C6cycloalkyl.
12. Use according to claim 10 or 1 1 , wherein the 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c) corresponds to formula
13. Use according to any of claims 1 to 12, wherein the cosmetic or dermatological composition comprises at least
1.0 to 10 % of a stabilizing agent (a) as defined in claim 1 ,
2.0 to 5 % b.w of a di benzoyl methane derivative (b); and
0.3 to 10 % b.w. of an amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c).
14. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least 1.0 to 10 % of a stabilizing agent (a) as defined in claim 1 ;
2.0 to 5 % b.w of a dibenzoylmethane derivative UV filter (b); and 0.3 to 10 % b.w. of an amino-substituted 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivative UV filter (c).
15. Use of the dabilzers (ai) - (a7) for the stabilization of specific amino-substituted 2- hydroxybenzophenone derivative (c).
EP05786945.5A 2004-09-29 2005-09-19 Photo-stable cosmetic or dermatological compositions Active EP1793798B1 (en)

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CN101031277A (en) 2007-09-05
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BRPI0516174A (en) 2008-08-26
ES2582485T3 (en) 2016-09-13
US8119107B2 (en) 2012-02-21
AU2005288930A1 (en) 2006-04-06
US20120121524A1 (en) 2012-05-17
WO2006034968A1 (en) 2006-04-06
AU2005288930B2 (en) 2011-06-23
BRPI0516174B1 (en) 2015-06-16
US20100143272A1 (en) 2010-06-10
MX2007003356A (en) 2008-03-05
KR20070058518A (en) 2007-06-08
KR101269995B1 (en) 2013-05-31
JP5384826B2 (en) 2014-01-08
EP1793798B1 (en) 2016-04-20

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