EP1443884A1

EP1443884A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological impregnated tissues

Info

Publication number: EP1443884A1
Application number: EP02785318A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Anja Göppel; Andreas Bleckmann
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2001-11-07
Filing date: 2002-10-26
Publication date: 2004-08-11
Also published as: DE10154627A1; WO2003039492A1; US20050002994A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological tissues, whereby said tissues comprise a water-insoluble fabric, impregnated or moistened with cosmetic and dermatological W/O impregnation emulsions, comprising, in addition to further cosmetic/dermatological additives or adjuncts, an emulsifier made from A) at least one O/W emulsifier with an HLB value > 10, B) at least one silicone emulsifier (W/S) with an HLB value </= 8 and/or C) at least one W/O emulsifier with an HLB value < 7 and a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa*s, a silicone oil content of less than 25 wt. % (based on the total weight of the preparation) and one or several fatty phases comprising lipids and/or oils.

Description

description

Cosmetic or dermatological impregnated wipes

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological wipes which are moistened with low-viscosity cosmetic and dermatological impregnation solutions - in particular with long-term stable, low-viscosity cosmetic and dermatological water-in-oil emulsions (W / O emulsions). In particular, the. Invention cosmetic and dermatological impregnated, possibly surface-structured care, cleaning and deodorant wipes as well as impregnated wipes for combating and preventing skin diseases (such as acne, sunburn etc.) and those which specifically care for the skin after sunbathing and the subsequent reactions of the skin reduce the effects of UV radiation. Furthermore, the present invention relates to impregnation or impregnation solutions which agree on the impregnation of such wipes.

Soaked cloths are widely used as objects of daily use in various areas. Among other things, they allow efficient and skin-friendly cleaning and care, especially in the absence of (running) water. The actual object of use consists of two components: a) a dry cloth, which is made of materials such as paper and / or a wide variety of mixtures of natural or synthetic fibers, and b) a low-viscosity impregnation solution.

Cosmetic or dermatological wipes can consist of both water-soluble (e.g. toilet paper) and water-insoluble materials. Furthermore, the wipes can be smooth or surface structured. Surface textured cloths are used e.g. B. made on the basis of cellulose and are used in particular as household towels and for perianal cleaning. Their structure is created by mechanical stamping using calender rolls. Such cloths have one low tensile strength combined with high roughness and hardness. They are therefore only conditionally suitable for use on human skin.

Conventional impregnation or impregnation solutions for water-insoluble nonwoven materials have so far often lacked long-term stability. Emulsions of this type tend to separate phases, particularly at elevated ambient temperatures, which is a decisive disadvantage for the impregnation process and for the final quality of the end product.

The long-term stability of impregnation or impregnation solutions of the prior art is generally ensured by the use of increased emulsifier concentrations and high energy input, for example in the case of multiple homogenization.

It was therefore an object of the present invention to find long-term stable impregnation or impregnation solutions for application to water-insoluble nonwoven materials which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art and which, even at low emulsifier contents, are thin, long-term stable emulsions which need to be homogenized little and may contain more nourishing lipids and water-soluble active ingredients.

It was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic and dermatological wipes, the wipes consisting of a water-insoluble fleece which is impregnated or moistened with cosmetic and dermatological w / o impregnation emulsions which, in addition to other cosmetic / dermatological additives or Excipients, an emulsifier system consisting of A at least one O / W emulsifier with an HLB value> 10, B at least one silicone emulsifier (W / S) with an HLB value <8 and / or C at least one W / O emulsifier with a HLB value <7 and a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa-s, a silicone oil content below 25 wt .-% (based on the total weight of the preparation) and one or more lipids and / or oils containing fat phase; remedy the disadvantages of the prior art. The wipes according to the invention represent the combination of a soft, water-insoluble, newly structured nonwoven fabric (nonwoven material) with low-viscosity cosmetic and dermatological ή W / O impregnation emulsions. They are extremely satisfactory in all respects and are therefore particularly suitable as a basis for preparation forms to serve a variety of applications. The wipes according to the invention show very good sensory and cosmetic properties and are furthermore distinguished by excellent skin care data.

The nonwoven fabric is preferably consolidated as a spunlace material in the manufacturing process by water jets. The wipes according to the invention can be both structured and unstructured (“smooth”). If the material is to be structured, the structuring is advantageously also carried out by water jets. This structuring creates, for example, a uniform sequence of elevations and depressions in the material.

In combination with suitable impregnation solutions, this structuring allows for better access to wells in human skin as well as through its elevations. their structure valleys have an increased dirt holding capacity. Overall, this leads to a significantly improved cleaning performance.

Better access to wells in human skin is also of particular importance for combating skin diseases and skin irritation and for the effective development of a deodorant effect.

Depending on the fabric used, the weight ratio of the impregnated cloth to the W / O emulsion is selected from the range from 5: 1 to 1: 5. This ensures drip-free use of the soaked cloth.

Structured cosmetic or dermatological wipes are therefore particularly preferred according to the invention.

The cosmetic and dermatological w / o impregnation emulsions with which the wipes according to the invention are moistened can be in various forms. They are preferably thin to sprayable and have z. B. a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa-s, in particular less than 1.500 mPa-s (measuring device Haake Viskotester VT-02 at 25 ° C).

The preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was particularly surprising that the emulsions prepared from the preparations according to the invention have a high solubility for UV filters from the triazine group and thus a high UVA & UVB protection factor can be achieved , Furthermore, repellents and self-tanning substances (e.g. dihydroxyactetone) can be stably incorporated into these new W / O emulsions.

Accordingly, preparations in the sense of the present invention are particularly suitable to serve as the basis for product forms with a variety of uses.

Impregnation emulsions according to the invention can - depending on the content of silicone oils and lipids - contain only one of the emulators B and C in addition to the O / W emulsifier A.

According to the invention, the silicone emulsifiers B can advantageously be selected from the group of the alkyl ethiconcopolyols and / or alkyldimethiconcopolyols, in particular from the group of the compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure:

CH ₃ CH ₃ CH ₃ CH ₃ CH ₃ . HaC— Si - -O— Si— -O-Si- -O-Si— -o- -Si-CH ₃ 1 I

CH _a Y CH ₃

CH _a

OIC ₂ H ₄ - O— C ₃ H ₆ 0— X in which X and Y are selected independently of one another from the group H (hydrogen) and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups with 1-24 carbon atoms, p a number of Represents 0-200, q represents a number 1-40, and r represents a number 1-100. An example of silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention are dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183.

Another example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 90.

Another example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the dimethicone copolyol cyclomethicone, which is sold by the company Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL® EM 97.

Furthermore, the emulsifier lauryl methicone copolyol, which is sold under the trademark Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd., has proven to be particularly advantageous. is available.

Another advantageous silicone emulsifier is 'octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside' from Wacker.

The total amount of silicone emulsifiers A used according to the invention in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

According to the invention, the W / O emulsifier C (s) are preferably selected from the following group:

Sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl alcoholate, lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Gera microcristallina) mixed with paraffin oil (Paraffinum liquidum), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, wool wax acid mixtures, wool wax alcohol mixtures Pentaerythrithylisostearat, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, sorbitan oleate as a mixture with hydrogenated castor oil, beeswax (Cera alba) and stearic acid, Natriumdihydroxycetylphosphat in admixture with Isopropylhydroxycetyl- ether, methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose in Mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral oil in a mixture with petrolatum and ozokerite and glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in a mixture with ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil and glyceryl isostearate and polyglyceryl-3-oleate, PEG-7-hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan oleate in a mixture with PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan isostearate in a mixture with PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, hexyl laurate, acrylate / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate cross polymer, sorbitan isostearate, Poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxy stearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-di-polyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl polyglyceryl-3 dioleate. ,

According to the invention, the O / W emulsifier A (s) are preferably selected from the following group:

Glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40-castor oil and sodium cetyl-stearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetyl-4-stearylsulfate, lecarbyl-trisulfate, lecarbyl-trisulfate, lecurate-4-stearyl sulfate -4 phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, glyceryl oleate in a mixture with propylene glycol, PEG-9 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG -30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, Ceteth-2, Ceteth-20, Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-65, Polysorbate-100, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with PEG-100 Stearate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, Laureth-4, ceteareth-3, isostearyl glyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, Laureth-23, steareth-2, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with PEG 40-stearate, glycol distearate, PEG-22 -Dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-2 in a mixture with PEG-8 Distearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, Methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, PEG-40 sorbitan anisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-8 beeswax, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, isostearuccin diglyceryl Stearamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride phosphate, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, triethyl citrate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate, sorbitan sesquioleate, triceteareth-4-phosphate citrate, poly-phosphate citrate Isosteareth-10, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiiso stearate, ceteth-10, oleth-20, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-PEG -30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

It is advantageous according to the invention to choose the weight ratios of coemulsifier A to emulsifier B to emulsifier C (A: B: C) as a: b: c, where a, b and c independently of one another are rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 can represent up to 3. A weight ratio of approximately 1: 2: 1 is particularly preferred.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous for the total amount of emulsifiers A, B and C to be in the range from 0.1 to 15% by weight, advantageously from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

silicone oils

It is preferred to select the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention at least 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, from the group of the cyclic and / or linear silicones, which in the context of the present disclosure are also known as "silicone oils" Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxyl units to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by the following structural element: the silicon atoms being able to be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R 1 - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m can assume values from 2 - 200,000.

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by the following structural element

the silicon atoms being able to be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R 1 - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), n can have values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Phenyltrimethicone is advantageously chosen as the silicone oil. Other silicone oils, such as, for example, dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (for example hexamethylcyciotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and mixtures of these components), polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethane, cetyl dimethyl imide are advantageous for the present invention. Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also advantageous. However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

Cyclomethicone is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example dimethicone (polydimethylsiloxane) and phenyltrimethicone or combinations of the substances mentioned here.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous to limit the total amount of silicone oils to 2 to 25% by weight. According to the invention, a total amount of the silicone oils of 5 to 20% by weight and very particularly a total amount of 10 to 15% by weight - always based on the total amount - is particularly advantageous.

The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Oil phase / lipids

The oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like. For the purposes of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl lauron stearate, n-hexyl lauronate, n Isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyipalmitate, stearylheptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, tridecyl stearate, natural and synthetic, tridecyl, synthetic tridecylate, tridecyl trimate, tridecyl and synthetic tridecyl, synthetic tridecyl, synthetic B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis.

It is further preferred that the oil component (s) from the group isoeikosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, Cι _{2- 3} alkyl alkylate, di-C _12-13 aryl Tri-isostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Furthermore, the oil phase can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), Paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

According to the invention, the lipid or lipids are selected from the group of natural and / or synthetic lipids. Preferably used: C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, butylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, mineral oil, cocoglycerides.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone, dicaprylyl carbonate and C _12-15- alkylbenzoate of cyclomethicone, dimethicone, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, dicaprylyl carbonate and mineral oil are also particularly advantageous.

The fat phase content is advantageously between 1 and 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, preferably 2.5-70% by weight, particularly preferably 5-60% by weight.

water phase

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols with a low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products, furthermore alcohols with a low C number, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.

Advantageous preservatives in the sense of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin [for example Glydant®]), iodopropyl butyl carbamate (for example under the trade names Glycacil-L or Glycacil-L and Konkaben LMB available from Lonza), parabens, phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. Typically, the preservative system according to the invention comprises also advantageously be preservative aids such as Ethylhexyloxyglycerin, Glycine Soja etc. ^■

It can also contain moisturizers or so-called moisturizers. Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called trans-epidermai water joss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the horny layer positively.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the rope company SOLABIA S.A. is available.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, create or enhance a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ^® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).

aid

The compositions according to the invention can also optionally contain additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents (e.g. EDTA, iminodisuccinic acid), pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

dyes

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. ^{'Advantageous} color pigments include for example titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg., Fe ₂ 0 _3, Fe ₃ O _4, FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.

Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below. The Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.

Chemical or other name CIN color

Pigment Green 10006 green

Acid Green 1 10020 green

2,4-dinitrohydroxynaphthalene-7-sulfonic acid 10316 yellow

Pigment Yellow 1 11680 yellow

Pigment Yellow 3 11710 yellow

Pigment Orange 1 11725 orange.

2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene 11920 orange

Solvent Red 3 12010 red

1 - (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1 '-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 12085 red

Pigment Red 3 12120. red

Ceresrot; Sudan Red; Fat red G 12150 red Chemical or other name CIN color

Pigment Red 112 12370 red

Pigment Red 7 12420 red

Pigment Brown 1 12480 brown

4- (2'-methoxy-5'-sulfonic acid diethylamide-1'-phenylazo) -3-hydroxy-5 "- 12490 red chloro-2", 4 "-dimethoxy-2-naphthoic acid anilide

Disperse Yellow 16 12700 yellow

1- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -4-amino-benzene-5-sulfonic acid 13015 yellow

2,4-Dihydroxy-azobenzene-4'-sulfonic acid 14270 orange

2- (2,4-Dimethylphenylazo-5-sulfonic acid) -1-hydroxynaphthalene-4-sulfo-14700 red foic acid

2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1 -naphtho! -4-sulfonic acid 14720 red

2- (6-sulfo-2,4-xylylazo) -1-naphthol-5-sulfonic acid 14815 red

1- (4'-Sulfophenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15510 orange

1 - (2-sulfonic acid-4-chloro-5-carboxylic acid-1-phenylazo) -2-hydroxy- 15525 red naphthalene

1- (3-methyl-phenylazo-4-sulfonic acid) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15580 red

1- (4 ', (8 ^, ) -sulfonic acid naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15620 red

2-hydroxy-1, 2'-azonaphthalene-1 'sulfo acid 15630 red

3-hydroxy-4-phenylazo-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15800 red

1 - (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15850 red

1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-5-chloro-1-phenylazo) -2-hydroxy-naphthaiine-3- 15865 red carboxylic acid

1 - (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid 15880 red

1 - (3-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15980 orange

1- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15985 yellow

Allura Red 16035 red

1- (4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid 16185 red

Acid Orange 10 16230 orange

1 - (4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid 16255 red

1- (4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6,8-trisulfonic acid 16290 red

8-amino-2-phenylazo-1-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid 17200 red

Acid Red 1 18050 red

Acid Red 155 18 130 red Chemical or other name CIN color

Acid Yellow 121 18690 yellow

Acid Red 180 18736 red

Acid Yellow 11 18820 yellow

Acid Yellow 17 18965 yellow

4- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolon-3- 19140 yellow carboxylic acid

Pigment Yellow 16 20040 yellow

2,6- (4 ^* -sulfo-2 ", 4" -dimethyl) bis-phenylazo) 1,3-dihydroxybenzene 20170 orange

Acid Black 1 20470 black

Pigment Yellow 13 21 100 yellow

Pigment Yellow 83 21108 yellow

Solvent Yellow 21230 yellow

Acid Red 163 24790 red

Acid Red 73 27 290 red

2- [4 '- (4 "-Sulfo-1" phenylazo) -7'-sulfo-1' -naphthylazo] -1-hydroxy-7- 27755 black aminonaphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid

4 ^, - [(4 "-Sulfo-1" -phenylazo) -7'-sulfo-1 '-naphthylazo] -1 -hydroxy-8- 28440 black acetyl-aminonaphthalene-3,5-disulfonic acid

Direct Orange 34, 39, 44, 46, 60 40215 orange

Food Yellow 40800 orange trans-ß-apo-8'-carotenaldehyde (C ₃₀ ) 40820 orange trans-apo-8'-carotenic acid (C ₃₀ ) ethyl ester 40825 orange

Canthaxanthin 40850 orange

Acid Blue 1 42045 blue

2,4-disulfo-5-hydroxy-4'-4 "-bis- (diethylamino) triphenyl-carbinol 42051 blue

4 - [(- 4-N-ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino) phenyl- (4-hydroxy-2-sulfophe- 42053 green nyl) - (methylene) -1- (N-ethylN-p-sulfobenzyl) -2, 5-cyclohexadienimine]

Acid Blue 7 42080 blue

(N-ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino) phenyl- (2-sulfophenyl) -methylene- (N- 42090 blue ethyl-Np-sulfo-benzyl) Δ ^2.5 -cyclohexadienimine

Acid Green 9 42 100 green

Diethyl-di-sulfobenzyl-di-4-amino-2-chloro-di-2-methyl-fuchsonim-42170 green monium Chemical or other name CIN color

Basic Violet 14 42510 violet

Basic Violet 2 42520 violet

2'-Methyl-4 '- (N-ethyl-N-m-sulfobenzyl) amino-4 "- (N-diethyl) amino- 42735 blue

2-methyl-N-ethylN-m-sulfobenzyl-fuchsonimmonium

4 '- (N-Dimethyl) -amino-4 "- (N-phenyl) -aminonaphtho-N-dimethyl-44045 blue foxsonimmonium

2-Hydroxy-3,6-disulfo-4,4'-bis-dimethylaminoπaphthofuchsonimmo- 44090 green nium

Acid Red 52 45 100 red

3- (2'-Methylphenylamino) -6- (2'-methyl-4'-sulfophenylamino) -9- (2 "- 45190 violet carboxyphenyl) xanthenium salt

Acid Red 50 45 220 red

Phenyl-2-oxyfluoron-2-carboxylic acid 45350 yellow

4,5-dibromofluorescein 45370 orange

2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein 45380 red

Solvent Dye 45396 orange

Acid Red 98 45405 red

3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein 45410 red

4,5-diiodofluorescein 45425 red

2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein 45430 red

Quinophthalone 47000 yellow

Quinophthalone disulfonic acid 47005 yellow

Acid Violet 50 50325 violet

Acid Black 2 50420 black

Pigment Violet 23 51319 violet

1, 2-dioxyanthraquinone, calcium-aluminum complex 58000 red

3-oxypyrene-5,8, 10-sulfonic acid 59040 green

1-Hydroxy-4-N-phenylaminoanthraquinone 60724 violet

1-Hydroxy-4- (4'-methylphenylamino) anthraquinone 60725 purple

Acid Violet 23 60730 violet

1, 4-Di (4'-methylphenylamino) anthraquinone 61565 green

1,4-bis (o-sulfo-p-toluidino) anthraquinone 61570 green

Acid Blue 80 61585 blue Chemical or other name CIN color

Acid Blue 62 62045 blue

N.N'-dihydro-l ^ .l '^' - anthraquinonazine 69800 blue

Vat Blue 6; Pigment Blue 64 69825 blue

Vat Orange 7 71105 orange

Indigo 73000 blue

Indigo-disulfonic acid 73015 blue

4,4'-dimethyl-6,6'-dichlorothioindigo 73360 red

5,5'-dichloro-7,7'-dimethylthioindigo 73385 violet

Quinacridone Violet 19 73900 violet

Pigment Red 122 73915 red

Pigment Blue 16 74 100 blue

Phthalocyanine 74160 blue

Direct Blue 86 74 180 blue

Chlorinated phthalocyanine 74260 green

Natural Yellow 6.19; Natural Red 1 75 100 yellow

Bixin, Nor-Bixin 75120 orange

Lycopene 75125 yellow trans-alpha, beta or gamma carotene 75130 orange

Keto and / or hydroxyl derivatives of carotene 75135 yellow

Guanine or pearlescent 75170 white

1,7-bis (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) 1,6-heptadiene-3,5-dione 75300 yellow

Complex salt (Na, Al, Ca) of carminic acid 75470 red

Chlorophyll a and b; Copper compounds of chlorophyll and 75810 green

chlorophyllins

Aluminum 77000 white

Alumina hydrate 77002 white

Water-containing aluminum silicate 77004 white

Ultramarine 77007 blue

Pigment Red 101 and 102 77015 red

Barium sulfate 77120 white

Bismuth oxychloride and its mixtures with mica 77163 white

Calcium carbonate 77220 white

Calcium sulfate 77231 white Chemical or other name CIN color

Carbon 77266 black

Pigment Black 9 77267 black

Carbo medicinalis vegetabilis 77268: 1 black

Chromium oxide 77288 green

Chromium oxide, ^' contains 77289 green

Pigment Blue 28, Pigment Green 14 77346 green

Pigment Metal 2 77400 brown

Gold 77480 brown

Iron oxides and hydroxides 77489 orange

Iron oxide 77491 red

Iron oxide hydrate 77492 yellow

Iron oxide 77499. black

Mixtures of iron (II) and iron (III) hexacyanoferrate 77510 blue

Pigment White 18 77713 white

Manganese ammonium diphosphate 77742 violet

Manganese phosphate; Mn ₃ (PO ₄ ) ₂ ^■ 7 H20 77745 red

Silver 77820 white

Titanium dioxide and its mixtures with mica 77891 white

Zinc oxide 77947 white

6,7-dimethyl-9- (1 '-D-ribityl) isoalloxazine, lactoflavin yellow

Caramel brown

Capsanthin, Capsorubin orange

Betanine red

Benzopyrylium salts, anthocyanins red

Aluminum, zinc, magnesium and calcium stearate white

Bromothymol blue blue

Bromocresol green green

Acid Red 195 red

If the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfo- acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1, 2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- ( 2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1- naphthyl-azo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-pheny! azo) -1 - (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolon-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and the like nd titanium dioxide.

Also advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.

Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. The types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred: 1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.

■ "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and

■ "mother-of-pearl" (ground mussel shells)

2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI)

3. Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide

Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Z is particularly advantageous. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.

The following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:

For example, particular preference is given to the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.

The list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like. Are advantageous for. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ 0 ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

It can also be advantageous to do without a substrate such as mica. Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred. Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 from BASF. Also particularly advantageous are effect pigments, which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue). The glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).

The dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in a mixture and can be coated with one another, with different coatings. different thickness effects are generally caused. The total amount of the dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously in the range from, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 10 % By weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

drugs

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid ), Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl, and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glycery esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, hepta thionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. B. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, Bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-uenolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as konyferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives , Butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSÜ4) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbene and their derivatives (e.g. B. stilbene. oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid or tocopherol and their derivatives.

An astonishing property of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

According to the invention, the active ingredients (one or more compounds) can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:

Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. hydrocortisone-17-valerate, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheap the vitamin B ^ the vitamin B ₁₂ the vitamin Di, but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F) ), in particular gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to select the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for example purcellin oil, Eucerit ^R and Neocerit ^R.

The active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular if the preparations according to the invention for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin should serve.

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

The active ingredient (s) are also advantageously selected from the group comprising catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of catechins, such as, for example, the leaves of plant family Theaceae, especially Camellia sinensis (green tea). Their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids) are particularly advantageous.

Catechins are a group of compounds which are to be regarded as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4- Dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol) Epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is also an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention.

Plant extracts containing catechins, in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec, especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. talien- sis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechol, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin , (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavon and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions indicated):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in the table below:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where ZT to Z _{7 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group Group of the mono- and oligoglycoside residues. According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Zi to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the Group of the mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances. the generic structural formula

wherein Gly-i, Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly _1t Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably _selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues. Z ^ to Z ₅ are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:

where Gly _! , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly _{1 t} Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to select the flavone glycoside (s) from the group α-glucosyl rutin, α-glucosyl myrcetin, α-glucosyl iso-quercitrin, α-glucosyl iso-quercetin and glucosyl-quercitrin. According to the invention, α-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

Also advantageous according to the invention are naringin (aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucosid), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutan, rutabion, Taurutϊn, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ^, 4 ', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -beta-D-glucopy- ranosid)), monoxerutin (3.3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetin ( 3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3', 4 ', 5,7 -Tetrahydroxyflavanon-7-glucoside), Flavanomareϊn (3 ', 4', 7,8-Tetrahydroxyflava- non-7-glucoside) and Isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-Pentahydroxyflavanon-3- (ß- D-glucopyranosid).

It is also advantageous to choose the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

and represent the most widespread and thus best studied biochinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are classified as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or according to the number of C- Atoms referred to as U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. Q10 predominates in most mammals, including humans.

Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are named accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances in the sense of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols.

Another advantageous active ingredient is L-camitin [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) -butter-acid-betaine]. Also acyl-camitines, which are selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula wöbe) R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcamitine are preferred. Both entantiamers (D- and L-form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It can also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Other advantageous active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and flavorings.

The list of the active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned which can be used in the preparations according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting. The active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination with one another.

In addition, selected recipes according to the invention are suitable, which e.g. B. known antif old active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially σ-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like contain, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur in skin aging. They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

Skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

a) dryness, roughness and formation of (dryness) wrinkles, b) itching and c) Reduced regreasing by sebum glands (e.g. after washing).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulatively effective and e.g. B. accelerate or complement the endogenous aging processes. In epidermis and dermis, it is particularly caused by exogenous factors such as: B. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:

d) visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis); e) flaccidity and wrinkling; f) local hyper, hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots) and g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).

In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates in particular to products for the care of the naturally aged skin, and for the treatment of the consequential damage caused by light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Special application The cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, also for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.

Sun protection Another advantageous embodiment of the present invention consists in sun protection products.

It is particularly advantageous to add oil-soluble and / or water-soluble and / or pigmentary organic UV filters and / or inorganic pigments that absorb or reflect UV radiation. It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not protection from sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. So z. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.

The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.

For the purposes of the present invention, such pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with an amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are coated with a thin film using methods known per se be provided with a hydrophobic layer.

The titanium dioxide pigments can be present both in the rutile and anatase crystal modification and, for the purposes of the present invention, can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character being formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer by methods known per se The various surface coatings can also contain water for the purposes of the present invention. Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃₎ or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _B , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9) or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with a average chain length from 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Coated and uncoated titanium dioxides described can also be used in the context of the present invention in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizers (solubilizing agents) can advantageously be added to these predispersions.

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles in the sense of the present invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Particularly advantageous titanium dioxide are Eusolex T-2000 and Eusolex T-aqua from Merck, MT-100 TV and MT-100 Z from Tayca, titanium dioxide T 805 from Degussa and Tioveil AQ 10PG from Solaveil.

Another advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of fully methylated, linear siloxane polymers which are blocked at the end with trimethylsiloxy units.

Suitable zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles in the sense of the present invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies: Trade name Manufacturer Coating

Z-Cote HP1 BASF 2% Dimethicone

Z- Cote BASF /

ZnO NDM H&R 5% Dimethicone

ZnO Neutral H&R /

MZ- 300 Tayca /

MZ- 500 Tayca /

MZ- 700 Tayca /

MZ-303S Tayca 3% Methicone

MZ-505S Tayca 5% Methicone

MZ-707S Tayca 7% Methicone

MZ-303M Tayca 3% Dimethicone

MZ-505M Tayca 5% Dimethicone

MZ-707M Tayca 7% Dimethicone

Z- Sperse Ultra Collaborative ZnO (> = 56%) / Laboratories Dispersion in Dimethicone /

Cyclomethicone / ethylhexyl

Hydoxystearate benzoates

Velvet- UFZO- Miyoshi Kasei ZnO (60%) / 450 / D5 (60%) dispersion in Cyclomethicone /

Dimethicone

For the purposes of the invention, the zinc oxides Z-Cote and Z-Cote HP1 from BASF, zinc oxide NDM from Haarmann & Reimer and MZ-505S from Tayca are particularly preferred.

An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI: bisoctyl-triazole], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula

is marked and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemical GmbH.

Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of the filter substances, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic To provide preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.

Advantageous further UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are di-benzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the brand name Parsol ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Advantageous sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters in the sense of the present invention are:

Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid, which is distinguished by the following structure:

As well as their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid-bis sodium salt

with the INCl name bisimidazylate (CAS no .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP.

Another sulfonated UV filter for the purposes of the present invention are the salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself

with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann & Reimer.

Another advantageous sulfonated UV filter is 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid, such as its sodium -, potassium or their triethanolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself:

with the INCl name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 90457-82-2), which is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex.

Further advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. For example: ■ Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their

Salts.

The total amount of one or more sulfonated UV filter substances in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:

where R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a single hydrogen atom. The 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-

Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain, in addition to the filter substance or substances according to the invention, further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4th - (tert-Butyl) -4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1, 4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2,2 ' -Methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10- Sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-meth- oxyphenyl) -1, 3, 5-triazine, in each case individually or in any combination with one another.

Also other UV filter substances, which the structural motif are advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula

is reproduced, whereby

R represents a branched or unbranched CrC ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC ₄ alkyl groups,

X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,

Ri is a branched or unbranched C 1 -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula means in which

A represents a branched or unbranched d -CC ₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted with one or more dC ₄ alkyl groups, R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n is a number from 1 to 10, R _{2 represents} a branched or unbranched C Ci ₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ d ₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more dC alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched d-Cia-alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more dC ₄ - alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula

means in which

A represents a branched or unbranched d-dβ-alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more dC-alkyl groups,

R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.

A particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula

is reproduced, which is also referred to below as Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.

For the purposes of the present invention, a symmetrically substituted s-triazine which is 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2- ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is derived from the BASF Aktiengesellschaft is marketed under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

European laid-open specification 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are to be used with preference, the chemical structure of which is represented by the generic formula

is reproduced, wherein R, R ₂ and Ai represent a wide variety of organic radicals.

Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) - 2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl ) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl carboxyl ) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6 - (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- ( 4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1 , 3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2 "-methylpropyloxy) - 2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine.

Also advantageous, in the sense of the invention, are the benzotriazole derivatives. Benzotriazoles are characterized by the following structural formula:

wherein

R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted (e.g. substituted with a phenyl radical) or unsubstituted alkyl radicals with 1 to 18 carbon atoms and / or polymer radicals which themselves do not absorb UV rays (such as e.g. silicone residues, acrylate residues and the like), and

R _{3 is selected} from the group H or alkyl radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms. An advantageous benzotriazole for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) Broadband filter, which by the chemical structural formula

An advantageous benzotriazole for the purposes of the present invention is also 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxa- nyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCl name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula

is marked.

Further advantageous benzotriazoles for the purposes of the present invention are [2,4'-dihydroxy-3- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -5- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -2'-n-octoxy- 5'-benzoyl] di-phenylmethane, 2,2 'methylene-bis- [6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol], 2,2'-methylene-bis- [6- (2H-benzotiazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-trtramethylbutyl) phenol], 2- (2'-hydroxy- 5'-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy- 3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole and 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole. According to the invention, cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously 0.5 to 15% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, of one or more benzotriazoles.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester and 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester.

Homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: Homosalate) is characterized by the following structure:

2-Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene) is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539 and is characterized by the following structure:

2-Ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate) is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan OS and is characterized by the following structure:

4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) is available, for example, from Hoffmann-La Röche under the trade name Parsol MCX and is characterized by the following structure:

Isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate) is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 'and is distinguished by the following structure:

A further advantageous UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature in the sense of the present invention (3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which is available, for example, from Hoffmann-La Röche the trade name Parsol SLX is available.

The total amount of one or more UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight , each based on the total weight of the preparations.

It can also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.

The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 25 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 20% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations which protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.

It may also be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention, for example in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble or dispersible and fat-soluble film formers are suitable, in each case individually or in combination with one another.

Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. the Avalure® types from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP / VA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) etc ,

Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

Particularly preferred are copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as Tricontayl PVP and the like.

cleaning supplies

According to the invention, these emulsions can also be used as cosmetic and dermatological preparations as cleaning agents.

Cosmetic preparations, which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or solid form. In addition to According to active ingredient combinations, preferably at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, if desired one or more electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance can be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration between 1 and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Repellents- repellents

A further advantageous embodiment of the present invention consists in insect repellants.

Advantageous active ingredients for repellents are low-melting or liquid amides, alcohols, esters and ethers with melting points above 150 ° C, which evaporate only slowly at room temperature.

The following active ingredients, individually or in combination with one another or with others, have proven to be particularly advantageous: ethyl 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionate (trade name: Insect Repellent 3535 available from Merck), N, N -Diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (DEET), dimethylphthalate, ethylhexanediol, caprylic acid diethylamide and natural vegetable oils such as citronella oil, eucalyptus oil, lavender oil, clove oil.

Self

Another advantageous embodiment of the present invention is self-tanning.

Advantageous active ingredients for self-tanners are natural or synthetic ketols or aldols.

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), glycerol aldehyde, erythrulose, melanin, alloxan, hydroxymethylglyoxal, γ-dialdehyde, 6r-aldo-D-fructose, ninhydrin and meso-tartaric acid dialdehyde have proven to be advantageous. Mixtures of the abovementioned active ingredients with one another or with mucondialdehyde and / or naphthoquinones such as, for example, 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (juglone) and 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone have proven to be particularly advantageous

towels

According to the invention, wipes are used in combination with the low-viscosity cosmetic and dermatological W / O impregnation emulsions, which consist of a nonwoven, in particular water-jet bonded and / or water-jet embossed (spunlaced material).

The macro embossing introduced into the fleece can have any desired pattern. The selection to be made depends on the one hand on the impregnation to be applied and on the other hand on the field of application in which the subsequent cloth is to be used.

Large cavities on the fleece surface and in the fleece facilitate the absorption of dirt and impurities when the soaked cloth is run over the skin. The cleaning effect is increased many times over compared to the non-embossed wipes.

Relative to the non-embossed fleece, the thickness of the fleece with the elevations produced by the embossing is advantageously approximately twice as large. In preferred embodiments, the embossed fleece is between 5% and 50%, very particularly preferably between 10% and 25% thicker than the unembossed one.

The embossed fleece also has special properties that enable it to be used as a carrier material for emulsions or other preparations.

In particular, the tear strength is

[N / 50mm] when dry, machine direction> 60, preferably> 80

Cross direction> 20, preferably> 30 in the impregnated state, machine direction> 4, preferably> 60

Transverse direction> 10, preferably> 20 The stretchability of the cloth is preferably 15% to 100%, preferably in the machine direction when dry

20% and 50%

Transverse direction 40% to 120%, preferred

50% and 85% in the impregnated state machine direction 15% to 100%, preferred

20% and 40%

Transverse direction 40% to 120%, preferred

50%. and 85%

It has proven to be advantageous for the cloth if it has a weight of 35 to 120 g / m ² , preferably 40 to 60 g / m ² (measured at 20 ° C. + 2 ° C. and with a humidity of the room air of 65% + 5% for 24 hours).

The thickness of the fleece is preferably 0.4 mm to 1.5 mm, in particular 0.6 mm to 0.9 mm.

Finally, it is particularly advantageous for the cloth to have a surface linting of less than 4 mg / 1000 mm ² , preferably less than 2 mg / 1000 mm ² .

All organic and inorganic fiber materials on a natural and synthetic basis can generally be used as starting materials for the nonwoven fabric of the cloth. Be exemplary. Viscose, cotton, jute, hemp, sisal, silk, wool, polypropylene, polyester, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), aramid, nylon, polyvinyl derivatives, polyurethanes, polylactide; Polyhydroxyalkanoate, cellulose esters and / or polyethylene as well as mineral fibers such as glass fibers or carbon fibers. However, the present invention is not limited to the materials mentioned, but a large number of further fibers can be used for the formation of nonwovens.

In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the fleece, the fibers consist of a mixture of 70% viscose and 30% PET. Fibers made from high-strength polymers such as polyamide, polyester and / or highly stretched polyethylene are also particularly advantageous.

In addition, the fibers can also be colored in order to emphasize and / or increase the visual attractiveness of the fleece. The fibers can additionally contain UV stabilizers and / or preservatives.

The fibers used to form the cloth preferably have a water absorption rate of more than 60 mm / [10 min] (measured with the EDANA test 10.1-72), in particular more than 80 mm / [10 min].

The fibers used to form the cloth then preferably have a water absorption capacity of more than 5 g / g (measured with the EDANA test 10.1-72), in particular more than 8 g / g.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the impregnation solutions according to the invention without restricting them. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

Examples:

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

A. Impregnation medium: W / O sunscreen emulsions

ungmedium: nourishing W / O emulsions

Claims

claims:

1. Cosmetic and dermatological wipes, the wipes consisting of a water-insoluble fleece which is coated with cosmetic and dermatological w / o

^'' Impregnation emulsions are soaked or moistened, which, in addition to other cosmetic / dermatological additives or auxiliaries, comprise an emulsifier system

A at least one O / W emulsifier with an HLB value> 10, B at least one silicone emulsifier (W / S) with an HLB value <8 and / or C at least one W / O emulsifier with an HLB value <7 and a viscosity of less than 2000 mPa-s, a silicone oil content below 25 wt .-% (based on the total weight of the preparation) and one or more lipids and / or oils containing fat phase.

2. wipes according to claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio of the impregnated wipe to the W / O impregnation emulsion is selected from the range from 5: 1 to 1: 5.

3. wipes according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the W / O-. Impregnation emulsion contains one or more silicone emulsifier (s) B from the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicon col polyols.

4. wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O impregnation emulsion contains one or more W / O emulsifiers) C from the class of polyglycerol emulsifiers.

5. wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O impregnation emulsion one or more O / W emulsifier (s) A from the group of ethoxylated polysorbates or ethoxylated stearates and / or the phosphate and / or contains sulfate emulsifiers.

6. wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of emulsifiers A, B and C in the W / O impregnation emulsion a total amount from the range of 0.1 to _. 15% by weight, advantageously from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation.

7. wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O impregnation emulsion consists of one or more fat phases or part of the fat phases from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones and / or their derivatives and a content of at least 2 wt.

% of the total weight of the preparation contains.

8. Wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O impregnation emulsion has a silicone oil content of between 2 and 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, in particular preferably has 10 to 20 wt .-%.

9. wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O impregnation emulsion consists of a fat phase or part of a fat phase from the group of polar oils and / or carboxylic acid esters and / or dialkyl ethers and / or dialkyl carbonates.

10. wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of the fat phase of the W / O impregnation emulsion between 1 and 90 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, preferably 2.5 - 80 wt .-% , particularly preferably 5-70% by weight.

11 .. wipes according to, at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O impregnation emulsion one or more oil-soluble and / or water-soluble light protection filters, in particular UV filters from the group of

Triazines - especially 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, dioctylbutylamidotriazon, 4, 4 ', 4 "- (1, 3.57 triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid-tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), the sulfonated UV filter - especially phenylene-1,4-bis- ( 2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis sodium salt, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, terephtalidene dicampher

Sulfonic acid - the UV filter that is liquid at room temperature - very particularly 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate, homomenthyl salicylate - the inorganic Pigments - especially TiO2, ZnO - and the benzotriazoles - especially 2,2'-methylene bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol - contains.

12. Wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O impregnation emulsion contains one or more additional additives and / or active ingredients, in particular repellents and / or self-tanners and / or pigments.

13. Wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O impregnation emulsion has a high water resistance.

14. Wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O impregnation emulsion contains vitamin E and / or its derivatives as active ingredient.

15. Wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O impregnation emulsion contains α-glucosylrutin and / or its derivatives as active ingredient.

16. wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the W / O impregnation emulsion contains one or more cosmetic or dermatological auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients selected from the group: moisturizers, waxes, surfactants, preservatives, antioxidants

Dyes, plant extracts, UV filters, pigments, deodorant and antiperspirant active ingredients, dermatological active ingredients and perfume.

17. Use of the impregnated wipes according to one or more of the preceding claims as a cosmetic, in particular for skin care and / or insect repellent and / or self-tanning of the skin.

18. Use of the impregnated wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims as a sunscreen.

19. Use of the impregnated wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims for protection against light-induced skin aging.

20. Use of the impregnated wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims for moisturizing the skin.

21. Use of the soaked wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims for baby care.

22. Use of the impregnated wipes according to at least one of the preceding claims for skin cleaning.