EP1317574A1 - Vetement - Google Patents

Vetement

Info

Publication number
EP1317574A1
EP1317574A1 EP01965457A EP01965457A EP1317574A1 EP 1317574 A1 EP1317574 A1 EP 1317574A1 EP 01965457 A EP01965457 A EP 01965457A EP 01965457 A EP01965457 A EP 01965457A EP 1317574 A1 EP1317574 A1 EP 1317574A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
courses
fabric
zone
knitted
garment according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP01965457A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Andrew James Sara Lee Embody RATCLIFFE
John Sara Lee Embody SMEDLEY
Miranda Sara Lee Embody FROST
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Hillshire Brands Co
Original Assignee
Sara Lee Corp
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Sara Lee Corp filed Critical Sara Lee Corp
Publication of EP1317574A1 publication Critical patent/EP1317574A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/0007—Brassieres with stay means
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/0014—Brassieres made from one piece with one or several layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C5/00—Machines, appliances, or methods for manufacturing corsets or brassieres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards

Definitions

  • a garment having a body formed from a weft knitted fabric having courses and wales, the body including at least one first fabric zone separated from at least one second fabric zone in the coursewise direction, the fabric having a first set of knitted courses extending continuously through the first and second fabric zones and for each second fabric zone a second set of knitted courses extending through the respective second fabric zone only, the second set of courses comprising an elastomeric yarn, and for each second zone the knitted fabric adjacent to the terminal ends of the second set of courses including a filling yarn which is located to extend across a predetermined number of wales so as to prevent run back of said second set of courses.
  • the body is formed from a weft knitted tubular blank, preferably knitted on a circular knitting machine.
  • a method of producing a garment from a weft knitted fabric having a plurality of courses and wales including, knitting said fabric from first and second sets of knitted courses to produce first and second fabric zones separated in the coursewise direction, said first set of knitted courses extending continuously through the first and second zones and the second set of courses being knit for each second zone as partial courses extending through the respective second zone only, and for each second zone introducing a filler yarn into the knitted fabric which extends over a predetermined number of wales adjacent to the terminal ends of the second set of courses so as to prevent run back of said second set of course.
  • a weft knitted tubular blank for forming a garment as defined above.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic perspective view of a brassiere according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • a brassiere 10 including a body 11 having a pair of breast cups 12 located at the front of the brassiere 1 , and a back band 14 which extends from the outer side of each cup 12 and around the rear of the brassiere 10.
  • a pair of shoulder straps 16 are provided which extend upwardly from each breast cup 12 to the upper edge 15 of the back band 14.
  • the body 11 is formed from a weft knitted fabric having courses which extend around the body 11 in the direction of arrows C, i.e. the courses encircle the body of the wearer when the brassiere 10 is being worn.
  • the fabric portion 11a which forms band 14 is therefore integrally connected (i.e. it is a continuous extension) of the fabric 1 lb which forms the breast cups 12.
  • the breast cups 12 each include a cup insert 18 which is provided to give shape to the breast cup 12.
  • the cup insert 18 is a laminated structure comprising a central plastics foam layer having a polyester or cotton fabric layer bonded on each face of the foam layer.
  • edge banding 23 which is folded over and seamed to the fabric of the body 11.
  • Both edge bandings 22 and 23 are preferably formed from an elasticated tape and serve to protect the edges of the fabric of body 11 from unravelling.
  • portions 23 a of bandings 23 extend upwardly from the cups 12 in order to define straps 16.
  • the body 11 is formed from a single layer of knitted fabric so that band 14 comprises a single layer of knitted fabric and, as more clearly seen in Figure 2, each cup 12 comprises an outer, single, layer of weft knitted fabric 1 lb and an inner cup insert 18.
  • the fabric portions 11a, l ib forming the body 11 extend continuously around the body in the coursewise direction, i.e. the body 11 is a continuous tube.
  • the band 14 may be split, for example along line S for the incorporation of a clasp to enable portions of the back band 14 to be detachably secured together.
  • a blank 50 for forming the body 11 is illustrated in Figure 4.
  • the blank 50 is preferably knit on a circular knitting machine and so is tubular.
  • the blank 50 is illustrated in Figure 4 as a development for ease of illustration (i.e. edges E ]3 E 2 are in fact joined together).
  • a marking yarn is preferably knitted-in using the patterning control of the knitting machine in order to define upper and lower marking lines 56, 57 for defining the outline of the body 11 along which a cutting operation can be performed for forming the body 11.
  • the upper marking line 56 preferably includes a first pair of pinnacle shaped portions 60, and a second pair of pinnacle shaped portions 61.
  • the first pair of portions 60 define points of attachment of the straps 16 to the brassiere cups 12 and the second pair of portions 61 define points of attachment of the straps 16 to the back band 14.
  • Preferably alignment markings 65 are knitted-in along marking lines 56 and 57. The alignment markings 65, after cutting of the body 11 from blank 50 enable an operative to align corresponding markings on the inserts 18 to ensure that the inserts 18 are correctly positioned prior to the connection to the body 11.
  • linear markings 58 are provided to assist positioning of the blank 50 on a former (not shown) for heat setting of the blank after knitting and prior to cutting along lines 56, 57.
  • the fabric portions 1 la, 1 lb are knit to provide the required stretch extension in both the course and walewise directions and to provide the desired elastic stretch recovery.
  • the knitted structure is such as to provide greater coursewise stretch recovery than the fabric 1 lb forming the cups 12.
  • a second set of knitted courses are provided which extend partially around the blank, i.e. only extend through the back band 14 from boundary Bi to boundary B 2 between knitted portions 11a, l ib.
  • each partial course defining the second set of courses is separated from the next adjacent partial course by courses defining the first set of continuous courses.
  • each partial course is separated from the next partial course by at least one continuous course, preferably by at least 3 continuous courses.
  • yarns knitting the continuous courses may be introduced on feeds 1, 3, 4, 5, 7 and 8 and yarns knitting the partial courses may be introduced on feeds 2 and 6.
  • the continuous courses of the first set are knit on every needle with a plain knit construction.
  • the partial courses of the second set are knit with a miss-knit structure, preferably a knit 1 miss-knit 3 rotation.
  • the partial courses of the second set are knit such that the knitted wale on one course is on a different wale to the adjacent partial course.
  • a suitable knitted structure for the fabric portion 1 la on an 8 feed machine is
  • each course comprising the first set i.e. courses 1, 3, 4, 5, 7 and 8 in the above example
  • two yams are plated together, viz. a non- elastomeric yarn and an elastomeric yam.
  • the non-elastomeric yam is a coloured yam which lies on the face of the fabric.
  • the non-elastomeric yam is a 78 dtex 68 filament polyamide yam and the elastomeric yam is a 22 dtex lycra (RTM) core covered with a 44 dtex 20 filament polyamide yam.
  • the elastomeric yam is floated across selected wales on the face of the fabric to define a desired pattern.
  • an elastomeric yam is used which is preferably of a higher count (i.e. dtex value) than the elastomeric yam used in the first set of courses.
  • the elastomeric yam comprises a 78 dtex lycra (RTM) core covered with a 22 dtex 7 filament polyamide yam.
  • the elastomeric yam is floated over three adjacent wales in order to improve the elastic recovery properties of fabric portion 11a.
  • miss-knit constructions for this purpose may be used. e.g. knit 2 miss-knit 3.
  • a filling yarn is preferably knit-in with the elastomeric yarn on each partial course over a predetermined number of needles indicated in Figure 4 by regions FY.
  • the number of needles over which the filling yarn is introduced is in the range of 8 to 25 needles or about 0.5 to 1.5 cm of fabric.
  • the filling yarn is preferably a non-elastomeric yarn which is of a sufficiently high count to cause the knitted stitches of the second set of courses to be tightly gripped with stitches in the adjacent courses of the first set.
  • the yam count for the filling yam is also chosen so as to be not too high that it becomes visible on the face of the fabric.
  • the filling yam is a 44 dtex 13 filament polyamide yarn.
  • each course of the second set is separated from the adjacent course of the second set by three successive courses of the first set.
  • courses of the second set may be separated by less or more than three successive courses of the first set. Also, it is envisaged that groups of successive courses of the second set may be separated by one or more successive courses of the first set.
  • formation of a simple blank 50 on a circular knitting machine is preferred in order to provide ease of handling and sizing consistency during subsequent handling operations.
  • blanks 50 may be formed on the knitting machine as a continuous string of blanks which are subsequently separated from one another.
  • brassiere 10 illustrated and described with reference to Figures 1 to 4 is an example of a garment which may be produced in accordance with the present invention.
  • fabric portions 1 la, 1 lb constitute separate zones in the tubular body 11 which are separated in the coursewise direction and which exhibit different degrees of elastic stretch recovery.
  • the different degrees of elastic stretch recovery is achieved by the incorporation of partial courses of elastomeric yarn into the zone represented by fabric portion 1 la.
  • fabric portions 1 lb constitute a first zone having a relatively lower elastic stretch recovery and fabric portions 11a constitute a second zone having a relatively higher elastic stretch recovery.
  • the tubular body 11 has two zones only, viz one first coursewise zone and one second coursewise zone. It will be appreciated that in other garments, more than two coursewise zones may be provided, e.g. two or more second coursewise zones may be provided , separated by two or more first coursewise zones.
  • garments may be produced by knitting a blank 50 having partial courses of elastomeric yarn to define one or more second coursewise zones so as to provide in the finished garment fabric portions at desired locations which have a greater degree of elastic stretch recovery than neighbouring fabric portions.
  • the garments may be a pair of briefs or a crop top.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un vêtement comportant un corps formé à partir d'un tissu de trames tricotées comportant des rangées de mailles et des colonnes de mailles. Ce corps comprend au moins une première zone de tissu séparée d'au moins une deuxième zone d tissu dans le sens des rangées de mailles. Le tissu comporte un premier ensemble de rangées de mailles tricotées s'étendant de manière continue dans les première et deuxième zones de tissus. Dans chaque deuxième zone de tissu un deuxième ensemble de rangées tricotées s'étend dans la deuxième zone de tissu correspondant uniquement. Ce deuxième ensemble de rangées de mailles comprend un fil élastomère, et pour chaque deuxième zone le tissu tricoté adjacent aux extrémités du deuxième ensemble de rangées de mailles comprenant un fil de trame qui est placé de manière à s'étendre dans un nombre prédéterminé de colonnes de mailles afin d'empêcher le détricotage dudit deuxième ensemble de rangées de mailles.
EP01965457A 2000-09-14 2001-09-14 Vetement Withdrawn EP1317574A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB0022546 2000-09-14
GBGB0022546.6A GB0022546D0 (en) 2000-09-14 2000-09-14 A brassiere
PCT/GB2001/004101 WO2002022932A1 (fr) 2000-09-14 2001-09-14 Vetement

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1317574A1 true EP1317574A1 (fr) 2003-06-11

Family

ID=9899444

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP01965457A Withdrawn EP1317574A1 (fr) 2000-09-14 2001-09-14 Vetement

Country Status (6)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1317574A1 (fr)
AU (1) AU2001286098A1 (fr)
CA (1) CA2422226A1 (fr)
GB (1) GB0022546D0 (fr)
IL (1) IL154895A0 (fr)
WO (1) WO2002022932A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN104372495A (zh) * 2014-10-29 2015-02-25 常熟市华尔达制衣有限公司 一种纬编塑身内衣面料
CN107624041B (zh) 2015-03-27 2021-04-02 特里雷创新公司 利用圆机生产的具有弹性插入物的服装
CN107136579A (zh) * 2017-06-21 2017-09-08 陈雅明 一种女性健康内衣

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES352841A1 (es) * 1967-04-26 1970-01-16 Bonneterie Bosteels De Smeth Procedimiento de fabricacion de tejido elastico, en parti- cular de bordes elasticos para el acabado de articulos de calceteria.
DE1920125A1 (de) * 1969-04-21 1970-11-12 Triumph International Ag Buestenhalter
FR2076342A5 (en) * 1970-01-12 1971-10-15 Guille Olivier Fils Ets Knitted hose garments - with elastic self supporting regions
US5850745A (en) * 1997-03-05 1998-12-22 The Russell Group, Ltd. Knitted brassiere blank having integral seamless elasticated contours defining bra cup borders
FR2781816B1 (fr) * 1998-07-31 2000-09-22 Marcoux Laffay Sa Tricot trame elastique pour article presentant des zones ayant des extensibilites differentes et articles obtenus

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO0222932A1 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB0022546D0 (en) 2000-11-01
CA2422226A1 (fr) 2002-03-21
WO2002022932A1 (fr) 2002-03-21
IL154895A0 (en) 2003-10-31
AU2001286098A1 (en) 2002-03-26

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Effective date: 20030321

AK Designated contracting states

Designated state(s): AT BE CH CY DE DK ES FI FR GB GR IE IT LI LU MC NL PT SE TR

AX Request for extension of the european patent

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STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

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18D Application deemed to be withdrawn

Effective date: 20060202