EP1089707A1 - Use of cosmetic compositions containing catechins or green tea extract for sun-tanning - Google Patents

Use of cosmetic compositions containing catechins or green tea extract for sun-tanning

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Publication number
EP1089707A1
EP1089707A1 EP99929230A EP99929230A EP1089707A1 EP 1089707 A1 EP1089707 A1 EP 1089707A1 EP 99929230 A EP99929230 A EP 99929230A EP 99929230 A EP99929230 A EP 99929230A EP 1089707 A1 EP1089707 A1 EP 1089707A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
catechins
skin
acid
weight
green tea
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP99929230A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Uwe SCHÖNROCK
Heiner Max
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1089707A1 publication Critical patent/EP1089707A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for tanning the skin, in particular those which simultaneously offer protection against UV radiation.
  • UVC range rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm
  • UVB range rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.
  • the narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.
  • UVA range It is also important for the range between approximately 320 nm and approximately 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, to have filter substances available, since their rays can also cause damage. So it is proven that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely and that it can be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.
  • UV-A radiation can also cause skin damage by damaging the skin's keratin or elastin. This reduces the skin's elasticity and water retention capacity, i.e. the skin becomes less supple and tends to wrinkle.
  • the strikingly high incidence of skin cancer in areas exposed to strong sunlight shows that the genetic information in the cells is apparently also damaged by sunlight, especially by UV-A radiation.
  • UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism.
  • radical compounds e.g. Hydroxyl radicals.
  • Undefined radical photo products which are created in the skin itself, can also display uncontrolled subsequent reactions due to their high reactivity.
  • singlet oxygen a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur with UV radiation, just as short-lived epoxies and many others.
  • Singlet oxygen for example, is characterized by increased reactivity compared to the triplet oxygen normally present (radical ground state). However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.
  • UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. There is therefore a risk that ionic species also develop when exposed to UV rays, which in turn can oxidatively intervene in the biochemical processes.
  • the pigmentation of the human skin is essentially caused by the presence of melanin.
  • Melanin and its breakdown products (melanoids), carotene, degree of blood flow and the nature and thickness of the stratum corneum and other skin layers give skin tones of practically white (with reduced filling or in the absence of blood vessels) or yellowish over light brown-reddish, bluish to brown of different shades and finally almost black.
  • the individual skin regions show different depths of color tint due to different amounts of melanin.
  • melanin protects the skin from penetrating UV radiation.
  • the number of melanin granules produced in the melanocytes determines whether the skin is light or dark.
  • melanin can also be found in the stratum spinosum and even in the stratum corneum. It weakens the UV radiation by up to approx. 90% before it reaches the corium.
  • Skin type I never tans, always gets a sunburn.
  • Skin type II hardly tans, easily gets sunburned.
  • Skin type III tans well on average.
  • Skin type IV tans lightly and persistently, almost never gets sunburned.
  • Skin type V dark, often almost black skin, never gets sunburned.
  • a light skin tint can be achieved (e.g. extracts from fresh green walnut shells, henna)
  • the staining can also be done by chemically changing the horny layer of the skin with so-called self-tanning preparations.
  • the most important active ingredient is dihydroxyacetone (DHA).
  • DHA dihydroxyacetone
  • the skin tanning achieved in this way cannot be washed off and is only removed with the normal desquamation of the skin (after approx. 10-15 days).
  • Dihydroxyacetone can be called ketotriose and reacts as a reducing sugar with the amino acids of the skin or the free amino and imino groups of keratin via a series of intermediates in the sense of a Maillard reaction to give brown-colored substances, so-called melanoids, which occasionally also include melanoidins to be named.
  • a disadvantage of tanning with dihydroxyacetone is that the skin tanned with it, in contrast to "sun-tanned" skin, is not protected against sunburn.
  • dihydroxyacetone Another disadvantage of dihydroxyacetone is that, especially under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, it releases formaldehyde, albeit in mostly small amounts. It was therefore an urgent need to have ways in which the decomposition of dihydroxyacetone can be effectively countered.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • catechins or bile acid esters of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins For example, the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular the Camellia sinensis species (green tea) or their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids), for enhancing natural skin tanning or for Stimulation of melanogenesis in human skin remedies the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • Catechins are a group of compounds that can be understood as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins.
  • the catechins form the basic substance of a number of natural oligomeric or polymeric tanning agents, e.g. B. in tea. They occur together with other phenols in many types of fruit and are involved in the browning of pressure and interfaces (e.g. in apples) catalyzed by phenol oxidases.
  • the basic body the "catechin” (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol) is widespread in plants and occurs for example in the catechu. It is due to the structural formula
  • the epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-fiavanpentaol) is an epimer of catechin and is of the structural formula characterized.
  • the objects of the invention are also achieved by cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing plant extracts containing catechins, in particular preparations containing extracts of green tea.
  • Tea comes exclusively from leaves, leaf buds and delicate stems of the tea bush (Camellia sinensis L.), which are processed using methods such as withering, rolling, fermenting, crushing and drying.
  • Black tea is a fermented tea
  • oolong tea is a semi-fermented tea, the leaves of which are wilted. Rolls ferment only half of the usual time and then dried.
  • Green tea is an unfermented product, the leaves of which are blanched, rolled and dried while preserving the natural leaf color.
  • black tea contains 18.9% catechins and catechin tannins, 16.6% proteins, 2.7% caffeine, 10.2% other nitrogen compounds, 4.6% oligosaccharides, 0.6% starch, 11.9% Pectin, 7.9% cellulose and 6.1% lignin.
  • Fresh leaves have essentially the same composition, but contain more catechins (26%), less nitrogen compounds (8.7%, with the same caffeine content) and 0.8% inositol.
  • Around 80% of the polyphenol tannins contain catechins (main constituent galloyl - (-) - epigallocatechin).
  • extracts from leaves of the plants of the order Theales with the Theaceae family in particular the Camellia species spe ⁇ , especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica, increase the activity of the melanocytes of human skin and intensify the natural tanning of the skin.
  • green tea also contains the bile acid esters of these active compounds, which are likewise active according to the invention.
  • Skin care products according to the invention advantageously contain 0.0001-20 percent by weight of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins or of aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, preferably polyphenols or catechins from the group ( -) - Catechin, (+) - Catechin, (-) - Catechingal- lat, (-) - Gallocatechingallat, (+) - Epicatechin, (-) - Epicatechin, (-) - Epicatechingallat, (-) - Epigallocatechin, ( -) - Epigallocatechin gallate.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001-10% by weight of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins or of aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which have a content of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, based on the total composition of the Preparations.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention very particularly preferably contain 0.01-1% by weight of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins or of aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins on the overall composition of the preparations.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection formulations can be composed as usual and the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, furthermore for the treatment, the care and the Cleaning the skin and / or hair and serving as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • Those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are particularly preferred. These can advantageously additionally contain at least one further UVA filter and / or at least one further UVB filter and / or at least one inorganic pigment, preferably an inorganic micropigment.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • antioxidants are generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g.
  • thiols e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl , ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximine homocysteine sulfone, homocysteine sulfone, homocysteine sulfone , Hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine
  • very low tolerable doses e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
  • metal chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g.
  • citric acid lactic acid, malic acid
  • Humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives eg ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and the like d their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • Selenium and its derivatives eg selenium methionine
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the Preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, their respective concentrations are advantageous to choose from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances: mineral oils, mineral waxes
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids; Alkyl benzoates;
  • Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, and
  • the oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C- Atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl ethylhexyl-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl ethylpyl 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example Jojoba oil.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • waxes for example cetylpaimitat
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyl dodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethyl hexyl cocoate, C 1 -C 2 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • Ci 2 -is alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate Mixtures of Ci 2 -is alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C 2 -is alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C 12 -i 5 alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecylisononanoate are particularly advantageous.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.
  • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore low C-number alcohols, e.g.
  • Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
  • Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to prepare cosmetic preparations To provide that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair.
  • the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to prepare cosmetic preparations To provide that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair.
  • UVB filter substances if they contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,
  • Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts and 1,4-di (2-oxo-10- Sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) - Benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, e.g. the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3- Bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonic acid
  • UVB filters which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • UVA filters that are usually contained in cosmetic preparations.
  • These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • the quantities used for the UVB combination can be used.
  • the total amount of dibenzoylmethanes, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously in the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the total amount of camphor derivatives, in particular 4-methylbenzylidene camphor and or benzylidene camphor, in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously in the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight. -% selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the total amount of triazine derivatives, in particular 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen from the range of 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (for example Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (AI 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on TiO 2 .
  • inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (for example Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g
  • the inorganic pigments are present in hydrophobic form, that is to say that they have been treated to be water-repellent on the surface.
  • This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophobic layer by methods known per se.
  • One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer after a reaction n TiO 2 + m (RO) 3 Si-R '-> n TiO 2 (surface)
  • n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals.
  • hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous.
  • TiO 2 pigments are available, for example, from Degussa under the trade names T 805.
  • the total amount of inorganic pigments, in particular hydrophobic inorganic micropigments in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations, is advantageously in the range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10.0, in particular 0.5 to 6.0 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • UVA and / or UVB filters for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as
  • the total amount of one or more salicylic acid derivatives in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1 to 15.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. If ethylhexyl salicylate is chosen, it is advantageous to choose its total amount from the range of 0.1-5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-2.5% by weight. If homomethyl salicylate is chosen, it is advantageous to choose its total amount from the range 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight.
  • Yet another additional light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name UVINUL® N 539 and is characterized by the following structure:

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Abstract

Catechins, gallic acid esters of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts of plants or plant parts containing catechins or gallic acid esters of catechins, for example leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular of the species Camellia sinensis (green tea), or their typical constitutive elements (such as, for example, polyphenols, catechin, caffein, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids) are used to intensify the natural pigmentation of the skin or to stimulate human skin melanogenesis.

Description

Beschreibung description
VERWENDUNG VON EINEM GEHALT AN CATECHINEN ODER EINEM GEHALT AN EXTRAKT VON GRÜNEM TEE ALS HAUTBRÄNNUNGSMITTELUSE OF A CONTENT OF CATECHINES OR AN EXTRACT OF GREEN TEA AS A SKIN LIQUID
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen zur Bräunung der Haut, insbesondere solche welche gleichzeitig Schutz gegen UV- Strahlung bieten.The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for tanning the skin, in particular those which simultaneously offer protection against UV radiation.
Die schädigende Wirkung des ultravioletten Teils der Sonnenstrahlung auf die Haut ist allgemein bekannt. Während Strahlen mit einer Wellenlänge, die kleiner als 290 nm ist (der sogenannte UVC-Bereich), von der Ozonschicht in der Erdatmosphäre absorbiert werden, verursachen Strahlen im Bereich zwischen 290 nm und 320 nm, dem sogenannten UVB-Bereich, ein Erythem, einen einfachen Sonnenbrand oder sogar mehr oder weniger starke Verbrennungen.The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. While rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.
Als ein Maximum der Erythemwirksamkeit des Sonnenlichtes wird der engere Bereich um 308 nm angegeben.The narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.
Zum Schütze gegen UVB-Strahlung sind zahlreiche Verbindungen bekannt, bei denen es sich zumeist um Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, der 4-Aminobenzoe- säure, der Zimtsäure, der Salicylsäure, des Benzophenons sowie auch des 2-Phe- nylbenzimidazols handelt.Numerous compounds are known for protecting against UVB radiation, most of which are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole.
Auch für den Bereich zwischen etwa 320 nm und etwa 400 nm, den sogenannten UVA-Bereich, ist es wichtig, Filtersubstanzen zur Verfügung zu haben, da auch dessen Strahlen Schäden hervorrufen können. So ist erwiesen, daß UVA-Strahlung zu einer Schädigung der elastischen und kollagenen Fasern des Bindegewebes führt, was die Haut vorzeitig altern läßt, und daß sie als Ursache zahlreicher phototoxischer und photoallergischer Reaktionen zu sehen ist. Der schädigende Einfluß der UVB-Strahlung kann durch UVA-Strahlung verstärkt werden.It is also important for the range between approximately 320 nm and approximately 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, to have filter substances available, since their rays can also cause damage. So it is proven that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely and that it can be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.
UV-A-Strahlung kann ferner Hautschädigungen hervorrufen, indem das hauteigene Keratin oder Elastin geschädigt wird. Hierdurch werden Elastizität und Wasserspeichervermögen der Haut reduziert, d.h. die Haut wird weniger geschmeidig und neigt zur Faltenbildung. Die auffallend hohe Hautkrebshäufigkeit in Gegenden starker Sonneneinstrahlung zeigt, daß offenbar auch Schädigungen der Erbinformationen in den Zellen durch Sonnenlicht, speziell durch UV-A-Strahlung, hervorgerufen werden.UV-A radiation can also cause skin damage by damaging the skin's keratin or elastin. This reduces the skin's elasticity and water retention capacity, i.e. the skin becomes less supple and tends to wrinkle. The strikingly high incidence of skin cancer in areas exposed to strong sunlight shows that the genetic information in the cells is apparently also damaged by sunlight, especially by UV-A radiation.
Die UV-Strahlung kann aber auch zu photochemischen Reaktionen führen, wobei dann die photochemischen Reaktionsprodukte in den Hautmetabolismus eingreifen.However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism.
Vorwiegend handelt es sich bei solchen photochemischen Reaktionsprodukten um radikalische Verbindungen, z.B. Hydroxylradikale. Auch Undefinierte radikalische Photoprodukte, welche in der Haut selbst entstehen, können aufgrund ihrer hohen Reaktivität unkontrollierte Folgereaktionen an den Tag legen. Aber auch Singulettsauerstoff, ein nichtradikalischer angeregter Zustand des Sauerstoffmoleküls kann bei UV-Bestrahlung auftreten, ebenso kurzlebige Epoxide und viele Andere. Singulettsauerstoff beispielsweise zeichnet sich gegenüber dem normalerweise vorliegenden Triplettsauerstoff (radikalischer Grundzustand) durch gesteigerte Reaktivität aus. Allerdings existieren auch angeregte, reaktive (radikalische) Triplettzustände des Sauerstoffmoleküls.Mostly such photochemical reaction products are radical compounds, e.g. Hydroxyl radicals. Undefined radical photo products, which are created in the skin itself, can also display uncontrolled subsequent reactions due to their high reactivity. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur with UV radiation, just as short-lived epoxies and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example, is characterized by increased reactivity compared to the triplet oxygen normally present (radical ground state). However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.
Ferner zählt UV-Strahlung zur ionisierenden Strahlung. Es besteht also das Risiko, daß auch ionische Spezies bei UV-Exposition entstehen, welche dann ihrerseits oxidativ in die biochemischen Prozesse einzugreifen vermögen.UV radiation also belongs to ionizing radiation. There is therefore a risk that ionic species also develop when exposed to UV rays, which in turn can oxidatively intervene in the biochemical processes.
Die Pigmentierung der menschlichen Haut, wird im wesentlichen durch die Gegenwart von Melanin bewirkt. Melanin und dessen Abbauprodukte (Melanoide), Carotin, Durchblutungsgrad sowie die Beschaffenheit und Dicke des Stratum corneum und andere Hautschichten lassen Hautfarbtöne von praktisch weiß (bei verringerter Füllung oder bei Fehlen der Blutgefäße) oder gelblich über hellbraunrötlich, bläulich bis braun verschiedener Nuancen und schließlich beinahe schwarz erscheinen. Die einzelnen Hautregionen zeigen aufgrund unterschiedlicher Melanin-Mengen unterschiedliche Tiefe der Farbtönung.The pigmentation of the human skin is essentially caused by the presence of melanin. Melanin and its breakdown products (melanoids), carotene, degree of blood flow and the nature and thickness of the stratum corneum and other skin layers give skin tones of practically white (with reduced filling or in the absence of blood vessels) or yellowish over light brown-reddish, bluish to brown of different shades and finally almost black. The individual skin regions show different depths of color tint due to different amounts of melanin.
Das natürliche Melanin schützt die Haut vor eindringender UV-Strahlung. Die Anzahl der in den Melanocyten produzierten Melanin-Granula entscheidet über Hell- od. Dunkelhäutigkeit. Bei starker Pigmentierung (z.B. bei Farbigen, aber auch bei Hellhäutigen nach einiger UV-Bestrahlung) ist Melanin auch im Stratum spinosum und sogar im Stratum corneum festzustellen. Es schwächt die UV- Strahlung um bis zu ca. 90%, bevor diese das Corium erreicht.The natural melanin protects the skin from penetrating UV radiation. The number of melanin granules produced in the melanocytes determines whether the skin is light or dark. With strong pigmentation (e.g. in colored people, but also in fair-skinned people after some UV radiation), melanin can also be found in the stratum spinosum and even in the stratum corneum. It weakens the UV radiation by up to approx. 90% before it reaches the corium.
Je nach Lichtempfindlichkeit werden in der Regel folgende Hauttypen unterschieden:Depending on the sensitivity to light, the following skin types are generally distinguished:
Hauttyp I bräunt nie, bekommt immer einen Sonnenbrand. Hauttyp II bräunt kaum, bekommt leicht einen Sonnenbrand. Hauttyp III bräunt durchschnittlich gut.Skin type I never tans, always gets a sunburn. Skin type II hardly tans, easily gets sunburned. Skin type III tans well on average.
Hauttyp IV bräunt leicht und anhaltend, bekommt fast nie Sonnenbrand. Hauttyp V dunkle, oft fast schwarze Haut, bekommt nie Sonnenbrand.Skin type IV tans lightly and persistently, almost never gets sunburned. Skin type V dark, often almost black skin, never gets sunburned.
Die natürliche Abschirmung der schädlichen UV-Strahlung ist ein handfester Vorteil der natürlichen Hautbräunung. Seit einigen Jahrzehnten gilt darüber hinaus eine „gesunde" Hautfarbe als Zeichen von insbesondere sportlicher Aktivität und wird daher von einer breiten Verbraucherschicht als erstrebenswert erachtet. Vertreter der Hauttypen I und II, die sich einer solchen Hauttönung erfreuen wollen, sind daher ohnehin auf selbstbräunende Präparate angewiesen. Aber auch Vertreter des Hauttyps III, die sich nicht allzusehr den Risiken des Sonnenbades aussetzen und trotzdem gebräunt aussehen wollen, sind dankbare Zielgruppen für selbstbräunende Zubereitungen.The natural shielding of harmful UV radiation is a tangible advantage of natural skin tanning. For some decades now, a "healthy" skin color has been a sign of sporting activity in particular and is therefore regarded as desirable by a wide range of consumers. Representatives of skin types I and II who want to enjoy such a skin tint are therefore dependent on self-tanning preparations anyway But representatives of skin type III who do not expose themselves to the risks of sunbathing and still want to look tanned are grateful target groups for self-tanning preparations.
Künstliche Hautbräunung läßt sich auf kosmetischem bzw. medizinischem Wege bewirken, wobei im wesentlichen folgende Ansätze eine Rolle spielen: Durch regelmäßige Einnahme von Carotin-Präparaten wird Carotin wird im Unterhaut-Fettgewebe gespeichert, die Haut färbt sich allmählich orange bis gelbbraun.Artificial skin tanning can be achieved by cosmetic or medical means, whereby the following approaches play a role: Through regular intake of carotene preparations, carotene is stored in the subcutaneous fatty tissue, the skin gradually turns orange to yellow-brown.
Mit Hilfe abwaschbarer Make-up-Präparate kann eine leichte Hauttönung erzielt werden (z.B. Extrakte aus frischen grünen Walnußschalen, Henna)With the help of washable make-up preparations, a light skin tint can be achieved (e.g. extracts from fresh green walnut shells, henna)
Die Anfärbung kann auch auf dem Wege der chemischen Veränderung der Horn- schicht der Haut mit sogenannten selbstbräunenden Zubereitungen erfolgen. Wichtigster Wirkstoff ist das Dihydroxyaceton (DHA). Die auf diese Weise erzielte Hautbräunung ist nicht abwaschbar und wird erst mit der normalen Abschuppung der Haut (nach ca. 10-15 Tagen) entfernt. Dihydroxyaceton kann als Ketotriose bezeichnet werden und reagiert als reduzierender Zucker mit den Aminosäuren der Haut bzw. den freien Amino- und Imino-Gruppen des Keratins über eine Reihe von Zwischenstufen im Sinne einer Maillard-Reaktion zu braungefärbten Stoffen, sogenannten Melanoiden, welche gelegentlich auch Melanoidine genannt werden.The staining can also be done by chemically changing the horny layer of the skin with so-called self-tanning preparations. The most important active ingredient is dihydroxyacetone (DHA). The skin tanning achieved in this way cannot be washed off and is only removed with the normal desquamation of the skin (after approx. 10-15 days). Dihydroxyacetone can be called ketotriose and reacts as a reducing sugar with the amino acids of the skin or the free amino and imino groups of keratin via a series of intermediates in the sense of a Maillard reaction to give brown-colored substances, so-called melanoids, which occasionally also include melanoidins to be named.
Ein Nachteil der Bräunung mit Dihydroxyaceton liegt darin, daß die mit ihm gebräunte Haut im Gegensatze zu „sonnengebräunter" Haut nicht gegen Sonnenbrand geschützt ist.A disadvantage of tanning with dihydroxyacetone is that the skin tanned with it, in contrast to "sun-tanned" skin, is not protected against sunburn.
Ein weiterer Nachteil von Dihydroxyaceton besteht darin, daß es, insbesondere unter dem Einfluß ultravioletter Strahlung, wenn auch in meist geringen Mengen Formaldehyd abspaltet. Es war daher ein dringender Bedarf Wege aufzuweisen, auf welchen der Zersetzung von Dihydroxyaceton wirksam begegnet werden kann.Another disadvantage of dihydroxyacetone is that, especially under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, it releases formaldehyde, albeit in mostly small amounts. It was therefore an urgent need to have ways in which the decomposition of dihydroxyacetone can be effectively countered.
Den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abzuhelfen, war also Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung.The object of the present invention was therefore to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.
Es war indes überraschend und für den Fachmann nicht vorauszusehen, daß die Verwendung von Catechinen oder Gallensäureestem von Catechinen oder wäßriger bzw. organischer Extrakte aus Pflanzen oder Pflanzenteilen, die einen Gehalt an Catechinen oder Gallensäureestem von Catechinen aufweisen, beispielsweise den Blättern der Pflanzenfamilie Theaceae, insbesondere der Spezies Camellia sinensis (Grüner Tee) bzw. deren typische Inhaltsstoffe (wie z.B. Polyphenole bzw. Catechine, Coffein, Vitamine, Zucker, Mineralien, Aminosäuren, Lipide), zur Verstärkung der natürlichen Hautbräunung bzw. zur Stimulierung der Melanogenese der menschlichen Haut den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen.It was surprising, however, and for the person skilled in the art it was not foreseeable that the use of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, For example, the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular the Camellia sinensis species (green tea) or their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids), for enhancing natural skin tanning or for Stimulation of melanogenesis in human skin remedies the disadvantages of the prior art.
Catechine stellen eine Gruppe von Verbindungen dar, die als hydrierte Flavone oder Anthocyanidine aufzufassen sind. Die Catechine bilden die Grundsubstanz einer Reihe natürlicher oligo- oder polymerer Gerbstoffe, z. B. im Tee. Sie kommen zusammen mit anderen Phenolen in vielen Obstarten vor und sind an der durch Phenoloxidasen katalysierten Bräunung von Druck- und Schnittstellen (z. B. bei Äpfeln) beteiligt .Catechins are a group of compounds that can be understood as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins. The catechins form the basic substance of a number of natural oligomeric or polymeric tanning agents, e.g. B. in tea. They occur together with other phenols in many types of fruit and are involved in the browning of pressure and interfaces (e.g. in apples) catalyzed by phenol oxidases.
Der Grundkörper, das „Catechin" (Catechol, 3,3',4',5,7-Flavanpentaol, 2-(3,4-Dihy- droxyphenyl)-chroman-3,5,7-triol) ist weitverbreitet in Pflanzen und kommt beispielsweise im Catechu vor. Es ist durch die StrukturformelThe basic body, the "catechin" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol) is widespread in plants and occurs for example in the catechu. It is due to the structural formula
gekennzeichnet. characterized.
Das Epicatechin ((2R,3R)-3,3',4',5,7-Fiavanpentaol) stellt ein Epimeres des Catechins dar und ist durch die Strukturformel gekennzeichnet.The epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-fiavanpentaol) is an epimer of catechin and is of the structural formula characterized.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Aufgaben werden ebenfalls gelöst durch kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen enthaltend pflanzliche Auszüge mit einem Gehalt an Catechinen, insbesondere solche Zubereitungen, die Extrakte des grünen Tees enthalten.The objects of the invention are also achieved by cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing plant extracts containing catechins, in particular preparations containing extracts of green tea.
Tee stammt ausschließlich aus Blättern, Blattknospen und zarten Stielen des Teestrauches (Camellia sinensis L.), die nach Verfahren wie Welken, Rollen, Fermentieren, Zerkleinern und Trocknen bearbeitet werden. Schwarzer Tee ist ein fermen- tierter Tee, Oolong-Tee ist ein halb fermentierter Tee, dessen Blätter nach Welken u. Rollen nur die Hälfte der sonst üblichen Zeit fermentiert und anschließend getrocknet werden. Grüner Tee ist ein unfermentiertes Erzeugnis, dessen Blätter blanchiert, gerollt und unter Erhalt der natürlichen Blattfarbstoffe getrocknet werden.Tea comes exclusively from leaves, leaf buds and delicate stems of the tea bush (Camellia sinensis L.), which are processed using methods such as withering, rolling, fermenting, crushing and drying. Black tea is a fermented tea, oolong tea is a semi-fermented tea, the leaves of which are wilted. Rolls ferment only half of the usual time and then dried. Green tea is an unfermented product, the leaves of which are blanched, rolled and dried while preserving the natural leaf color.
Die Zusammensetzung der Inhaltsstoffe der Teeblätter schwankt je nach Herkunft und Behandlung beträchtlich. Im Durchschnitt enthält schwarzer Tee 18,9% Catechine und Catechin-Gerbstoffe, 16,6% Proteine, 2,7% Coffein, 10,2% andere Stickstoffverbindungen, 4,6% Oligosaccharide, 0,6% Stärke, 11 ,9% Pektin, 7,9% Cellulose und 6,1% Lignin. Frische Blätter weisen im wesentlichen die gleiche Zusammensetzung auf, enthalten jedoch mehr Catechine (26%), weniger Stickstoffverbindungen (8,7%, bei gleichem Coffein-Gehalt) sowie 0,8% Inosit. In den Polyphenol-Gerbstoffen finden sich zu etwa 80% Catechine (Hauptbestandteil Galloyl-(-)-epigallocatechin).The composition of the ingredients of the tea leaves varies considerably depending on the origin and treatment. On average, black tea contains 18.9% catechins and catechin tannins, 16.6% proteins, 2.7% caffeine, 10.2% other nitrogen compounds, 4.6% oligosaccharides, 0.6% starch, 11.9% Pectin, 7.9% cellulose and 6.1% lignin. Fresh leaves have essentially the same composition, but contain more catechins (26%), less nitrogen compounds (8.7%, with the same caffeine content) and 0.8% inositol. Around 80% of the polyphenol tannins contain catechins (main constituent galloyl - (-) - epigallocatechin).
Überraschenderweise wurde gefunden, daß Extrakte aus Blättern der Pflanzen der Ordnung Theales mit der Familie Theaceae, insbesondere der Spezies Camellia speα, ganz besonders der Teesorten Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis bzw. C. irrawadiensis und Kreuzungen aus diesen mit beispielsweise Camellia japo- nica die Aktivität der Melanozyten der menschlichen Haut steigern und die natürliche Hautbräunung verstärken.Surprisingly, it has been found that extracts from leaves of the plants of the order Theales with the Theaceae family, in particular the Camellia species speα, especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica, increase the activity of the melanocytes of human skin and intensify the natural tanning of the skin.
Außer den Catechinen (beispielsweise Catechin und Epicatechin) enthält grüner Tee ferner die Gallensäureester dieser Wirkstoffe, welche ebenfalls erfindungsgemäß wirksam sind.In addition to the catechins (for example catechin and epicatechin), green tea also contains the bile acid esters of these active compounds, which are likewise active according to the invention.
Vorteilhaft enthalten erfindungsgemäße Hautpflegeprodukte 0,0001 - 20 Gewichtsprozente an Catechinen oder Gallensäureestem von Catechinen oder an wäßrigen bzw. organischen Extrakten aus Pflanzen oder Pflanzenteilen, die einen Gehalt an Catechinen oder Gallensäureestem von Catechinen aufweisen, vorzugsweise Poly- phenole bzw. Catechine aus der Gruppe (-)-Catechin, (+)-Catechin, (-)-Catechingal- lat, (-)-Gallocatechingallat, (+)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epicatechingallat, (-)- Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechingallat.Skin care products according to the invention advantageously contain 0.0001-20 percent by weight of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins or of aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, preferably polyphenols or catechins from the group ( -) - Catechin, (+) - Catechin, (-) - Catechingal- lat, (-) - Gallocatechingallat, (+) - Epicatechin, (-) - Epicatechin, (-) - Epicatechingallat, (-) - Epigallocatechin, ( -) - Epigallocatechin gallate.
Bevorzugt enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung 0,001 - 10 Gew.-% an Catechinen oder Gallensäureestem von Catechinen oder an wäßrigen bzw. organischen Extrakten aus Pflanzen oder Pflanzenteilen, die einen Gehalt an Catechinen oder Gallensäureestem von Catechinen aufweisen, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung der Zubereitungen.Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001-10% by weight of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins or of aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which have a content of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, based on the total composition of the Preparations.
Ganz besonders bevorzugt enthalten kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung 0,01 - 1 Gew.-% an Catechinen oder Gallensäureestem von Catechinen oder an wäßrigen bzw. organischen Extrakten aus Pflanzen oder Pflanzenteilen, die einen Gehalt an Catechinen oder Gallensäureestem von Catechinen aufweisen, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung der Zubereitungen.Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention very particularly preferably contain 0.01-1% by weight of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins or of aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins on the overall composition of the preparations.
Erfindungsgemäß können die kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Lichtschutzformulierungen wie üblich zusammengesetzt sein und dem kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Lichtschutz, ferner zur Behandlung, der Pflege und der Reinigung der Haut und/oder der Haare und als Schminkprodukt in der dekorativen Kosmetik dienen.According to the invention, the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection formulations can be composed as usual and the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, furthermore for the treatment, the care and the Cleaning the skin and / or hair and serving as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
Zur Anwendung werden die kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen erfindungsgemäß in der für Kosmetika üblichen Weise auf die Haut und/oder die Haare in ausreichender Menge aufgebracht.For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
Besonders bevorzugt sind solche kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen, die in der Form eines Sonnenschutzmittels vorliegen. Vorteilhaft können diese zusätzlich mindestens einen weiteren UVA-Filter und/oder mindestens einen weiteren UVB-Filter und/oder mindestens ein anorganisches Pigment, bevorzugt ein anorganisches Mikropigment, enthalten.Those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are particularly preferred. These can advantageously additionally contain at least one further UVA filter and / or at least one further UVB filter and / or at least one inorganic pigment, preferably an inorganic micropigment.
Die kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen können erfindungsgemäß kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z.B. Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate.According to the invention, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
Ein zusätzlicher Gehalt an Antioxidantien ist im allgemeinen bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.An additional level of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
Es ist auch von Vorteil, den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen Antioxidantien zuzusetzen. Vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäuren (z.B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z.B. Urocaninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L- Camosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Derivate (z.B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z.B. α-Carotin, ß-Carotin, Lycopin) und deren Derivate, Chlorogensaure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z.B. Dihydroliponsäure), Au- rothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z.B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z.B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z.B. pmol bis μmol/kg), ferner (Metall)- Chelatoren (z.B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), α- Hydroxysäuren (z.B. Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z.B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, Vitamin C und Derivate (z.B. Ascorbylpalmitat, Mg-Ascorbylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z.B. Vitamin-E-acetat), Vitamin A und Derivate (Vitamin- A-palmitat) sowie Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, α-Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Furfurylidenglucitol, Carnosin, Butylhydroxy- toluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z.B. ZnO, ZnSO4) Selen und dessen Derivate (z.B. Selenmethionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z.B. Stilbenoxid, Trans-Stilbenoxid) und die erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.It is also advantageous to add antioxidants to the preparations according to the invention. The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), Au- rothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl , γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximine, homocysteine sulfone, homocysteine sulfone, homocysteine sulfone , Hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid) , Humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and the like d their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well Coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenon derivate, derivatives, mannoic acid, derivatives, mannose 4 ) Selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.
Die Menge der vorgenannten Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the Preparation.
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Sofern Vitamin A, bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate, bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, their respective concentrations are advantageous to choose from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
Die Lipidphase kann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus folgender Substanzgruppe: Mineralöle, MineralwachseThe lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances: mineral oils, mineral waxes
Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizinusöl;Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopro- panol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren; Alkylbenzoate;Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids; Alkyl benzoates;
Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane,Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes,
Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.Diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.
Die Ölphase der Emulsionen, Oleogele bzw. Hydrodispersionen oder Lipodispersio- nen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung wird vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen, aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Isopropylmyristat, Isopro- pylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n-Butylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n- Decyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, 2- Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, z.B. Jojobaöl.The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C- Atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl ethylhexyl-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl ethylpyl 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example Jojoba oil.
Ferner kann die Ölphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, der Silkonöle, der Dialkylether, der Gruppe der gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkohole, sowie der Fettsäuretriglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerin- ester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkan- carbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, z.B. Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Palmkernöl und dergleichen mehr.Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen. Es kann auch gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft sein, Wachse, beispielsweise Cetylpaimitat, als alleinige Lipidkomponente der Ölphase einzusetzen.Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetylpaimitat, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
Vorteilhaft wird die Ölphase gewählt aus der Gruppe 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Octyl- dodecanol, Isotridecylisononanoat, Isoeicosan, 2-Ethylhexylcocoat, Ci2-ιs-Alkylben- zoat, Capryl-Caprinsäure-triglycerid, Dicaprylylether.The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyl dodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethyl hexyl cocoate, C 1 -C 2 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind Mischungen aus Ci2-ιs-Alkylbenzoat und 2-Ethylhexyliso- stearat, Mischungen aus Cι2-ιs-Alkylbenzoat und Isotridecylisononanoat sowie Mischungen aus C12-i5-Alkylbenzoat, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat und Isotridecylisononanoat.Mixtures of Ci 2 -is alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C 2 -is alkylbenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C 12 -i 5 alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecylisononanoate are particularly advantageous.
Von den Kohlenwasserstoffen sind Paraffinöl, Squalan und Squalen vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden.Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
Vorteilhaft kann die Ölphase ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen Ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikonöl oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Ölphasenkomponenten zu verwenden.The oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
Vorteilhaft wird Cyclomethicon (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) als erfindungsgemäß zu verwendendes Silikonöl eingesetzt. Aber auch andere Silikonöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Hexamethylcy- clotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsiloxan). Besonders vorteilhaft sind ferner Mischungen aus Cyclomethicon und Isotridecylisononanoat, aus Cyclomethicon und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat.Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane). Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.
Die wäßrige Phase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen enthält gegebenenfalls vorteilhaftThe aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains
Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylen- glykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -mono- ethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethyl- ether und analoge Produkte, ferner Alkohole niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. Ethanol, Isopropanol, 1 ,2-Propandiol, Glycerin sowie insbesondere ein oder mehrere Verdickungsmittel, welches oder welche vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe Siliciumdioxid, Aluminiumsilikate, Polysaccharide bzw. deren Derivate, z.B. Hyaluronsäure, Xanthangummi, Hydroxypro- pylmethylcellulose, besonders vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Polyacrylate, bevorzugt ein Polyacrylat aus der Gruppe der sogenannten Carbopole, beispielsweise Carbopole der Typen 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, jeweils einzeln oder in Kombination.Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore low C-number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
Vorteilhaft können erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen außerdem Substanzen enthalten, die UV-Strahlung im UVB-Bereich absorbieren, wobei die Gesamtmenge der Filtersubstanzen z.B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 ,0 bis 6,0 Gew.-% beträgt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, um kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die das Haar bzw. die Haut vor dem gesamten Bereich der ultravioletten Strahlung schützen. Sie können auch als Sonnenschutzmittel fürs Haar dienen.Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to prepare cosmetic preparations To provide that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair.
Enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen UVB-Filtersubstanzen, können diese öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte öllosliche UVB-Filter sind z.B.:If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:
3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylben- zyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäu- re(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester; Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-
Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;Isopentyl methoxy cinnamate;
Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicyl- säure(4-isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester,Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophe- non, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxy- benzophenon;Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2- ethylhexyl)ester,Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,
2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy)-1 ,3,5-triazin.2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine.
Vorteilhafte wasserlösliche UVB-Filter sind z.B.:Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters include:
Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst; Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-me- thoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself; Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornyli- denmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfon- säure und ihre Salze sowie das 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)- Benzol und dessen Salze (die entprehenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, beispielsweise das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium- Salz), auch als Benzol-1 ,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-Sulfonsäure bezeichnetSulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts and 1,4-di (2-oxo-10- Sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) - Benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, e.g. the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3- Bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonic acid
Die Liste der genannten UVB-Filter, die in Kombination mit den erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkombinationen verwendet werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein.The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
Es kann auch von Vorteil sein, UVA-Filter einzusetzen, die üblicherweise in kosmetischen Zubereitungen enthalten sind. Bei diesen Substanzen handelt es sich vorzugsweise um Derivate des Dibenzoylmethans, insbesondere um 1-(4'-tert.Butyl- phenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion und um 1-Phenyl-3-(4'-isopropyl- phenyl)propan-1 ,3-dion. Es können die für die UVB-Kombination verwendeten Mengen eingesetzt werden. Die Gesamtmenge an Dibenzoylmethanen, insbesondere 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxy- dibenzoylmethan in den fertigen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1 - 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 6,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters that are usually contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The quantities used for the UVB combination can be used. The total amount of dibenzoylmethanes, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously in the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Die Gesamtmenge an Campherderivaten, insbesondere 4-Methylbenzyliden- campher und oder Benzylidencampher, in den fertigen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1 - 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 6,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The total amount of camphor derivatives, in particular 4-methylbenzylidene camphor and or benzylidene camphor, in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously in the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight. -% selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Die Gesamtmenge an Triazinderivaten, insbesondere 4,4',4"-(1 ,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6- triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), in den fertigen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1 - 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 6,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The total amount of triazine derivatives, in particular 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen from the range of 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Erfindungsgemäße kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen enthalten außerdem vorteilhaft, wenngleich nicht zwingend, anorganische Pigmente auf Basis von Metalloxiden und/oder anderen in Wasser schwerlöslichen oder unlöslichen Metallverbindungen, insbesondere der Oxide des Titans (TiO2), Zinks (ZnO), Eisens (z.B. Fe2O3), Zirkoniums (ZrO2), Siliciums (SiO2), Mangans (z.B. MnO), Aluminiums (AI2O3), Cers (z.B. Ce2O3), Mischoxiden der entsprechenden Metalle sowie Abmischungen aus solchen Oxiden. Besonders bevorzugt handelt es sich um Pigmente auf der Basis von TiO2.Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention also advantageously, although not necessarily, contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (for example Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (AI 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on TiO 2 .
Die anorganischen Pigmente liegen erfindungsgemäß in hydrophober Form vor, d.h., daß sie oberflächlich wasserabweisend behandelt sind. Diese Oberflächenbehandlung kann darin bestehen, daß die Pigmente nach an sich bekannten Verfahren mit einer dünnen hydrophoben Schicht versehen werden.According to the invention, the inorganic pigments are present in hydrophobic form, that is to say that they have been treated to be water-repellent on the surface. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophobic layer by methods known per se.
Eines solcher Verfahren besteht beispielsweise darin, daß die hydrophobe Oberflächenschicht nach einer Reaktion gemäß n TiO2 + m (RO)3Si-R' -> n TiO2 (oberfl.)One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer after a reaction n TiO 2 + m (RO) 3 Si-R '-> n TiO 2 (surface)
erzeugt wird, n und m sind dabei nach Belieben einzusetzende stöchiometrische Parameter, R und R' die gewünschten organischen Reste. Beispielsweise in Analogie zu DE-OS 33 14 742 dargestellte hydrophobisierte Pigmente sind von Vorteil.is generated, n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous.
Vorteilhafte TiO2-Pigmente sind beispielsweise unter den Handelsbezeichnungen T 805 von der Firma Degussa erhältlich.Advantageous TiO 2 pigments are available, for example, from Degussa under the trade names T 805.
Die Gesamtmenge an anorganischen Pigmenten, insbesondere hydrophoben anorganischen Mikropigmenten in den fertigen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1 - 30 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 - 10,0, insbesondere 0,5 - 6,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The total amount of inorganic pigments, in particular hydrophobic inorganic micropigments in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations, is advantageously in the range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10.0, in particular 0.5 to 6.0 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Ferner kann erfindungsgemäß gegebenenfalls von Vorteil sein, die Zubereitungen mit weiteren UVA- und/oder UVB-Filtem zu versehen, beispielsweise bestimmten Salicylsäurederivaten wieFurthermore, it may be advantageous according to the invention to provide the preparations with further UVA and / or UVB filters, for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as
(4-lsopropylbenzylsalicylat),(4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate),
(2-Ethylhexylsalicylat, Octylsalicylat),(2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate),
(Homomenthylsalicylat). Die Gesamtmenge an einem oder mehreren Salicylsäurederivaten in den fertigen kosmetischen oder dermatoiogischen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1 - 15,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 8,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. Wenn Ethylhexylsalicylat gewählt wird, ist es von Vorteil, dessen Gesamtmenge aus dem Bereich von 0,1 - 5,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 2,5 Gew.-% zu wählen. Wenn Homomenthylsalicylat gewählt wird, ist es von Vorteil, dessen Gesamtmenge aus dem Bereich von 0,1 - 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 5,0 Gew.-% zu wählen.(Homomenthyl salicylate). The total amount of one or more salicylic acid derivatives in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1 to 15.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. If ethylhexyl salicylate is chosen, it is advantageous to choose its total amount from the range of 0.1-5.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-2.5% by weight. If homomethyl salicylate is chosen, it is advantageous to choose its total amount from the range 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight.
Noch eine weiterere erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft zu verwendende zusätzliche Lichtschutzfiltersubstanz ist das Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylat (Octocrylen), welches von BASF unter der Bezeichnung UVINUL® N 539 erhältlich ist und sich durch folgende Struktur auszeichnet:Yet another additional light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name UVINUL® N 539 and is characterized by the following structure:
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. Alle Mengenangaben, Anteile und Prozentanteile sind, soweit nicht anders angegeben, auf das Gewicht und die Gesamtmenge bzw. auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen bezogen. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.
Beispiel 1example 1
W/O CremeW / O cream
Gew.%% By weight
Paraffinöl (DAB 9) 10,00Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 10.00
Petrolatum 4,00Petrolatum 4.00
Wollwachsalkohol 1,00Wool wax alcohol 1.00
PEG-7-Hydriertes Rizinusöl 3,00PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 3.00
Aluminiumstearat 0,40 α-Glucosylrutin 0,50Aluminum stearate 0.40 α-glucosyl rutin 0.50
Glycerin 2,00Glycerin 2.00
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Epigallocatechingallat 0,20Epigallocatechin gallate 0.20
Wasser ad 100,00Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 2Example 2
W/O LotionW / O lotion
Gew.-%% By weight
Paraffinöl (DAB 9) 20,00Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 20.00
Petrolatum 4,00Petrolatum 4.00
Glucosesesquiisostearat 2,00Glucose sesquiisostearate 2.00
Aluminiumstearat 0,40 α-Glucosylrutin 0,30 α-Tocopherylacetat 1,00Aluminum stearate 0.40 α-glucosyl rutin 0.30 α-tocopheryl acetate 1.00
Glycerin 5,00Glycerin 5.00
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Epigallocatechingallat 0,50Epigallocatechin gallate 0.50
Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 3Water ad 100.00 Example 3
O/W LotionO / W lotion
Gew.-%% By weight
Paraffinöl (DAB 9) 8,00Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 8.00
Isopropylpalmitat 3,00Isopropyl palmitate 3.00
Petrolatum 4,00,Petrolatum 4.00,
Cetylstearylalkohol 2,00Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00
PEG 40 Rizinusöl 0,50PEG 40 castor oil 0.50
Natriumcetylstearylsulfat 0,50Sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate 0.50
Natrium Carbomer 0,40 α-Glucosylrutin 0,50Sodium carbomer 0.40 α-glucosyl rutin 0.50
Glycerin 3,00 α-Tocopherol 0,20Glycerin 3.00 α-tocopherol 0.20
Octylmethoxycinnamat 5,00Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.00
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 1 ,00Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 1.00
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Epigallocatechingallat 0,05Epigallocatechin gallate 0.05
Wasser ad 100,00Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 4Example 4
O/W CremeO / W cream
Gew.-%% By weight
Paraffinöl (DAB 9) 7,00Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 7.00
Avocadoöl 4,00Avocado oil 4.00
Glycerylmonostearat 2,00 α-Glucosylrutin o,80 α-Tocop h ery lacetat 1,50Glyceryl monostearate 2.00 α-glucosyl rutin 0.80 α-tocopheryl acetate 1.50
Natriumlactat 3,00Sodium lactate 3.00
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Epigallocatechingallat 3,OOEpigallocatechin gallate 3, OO
Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 5Water ad 100.00 Example 5
Liposomenhaltiges GelGel containing liposomes
Gew.-%% By weight
Lecithin 6,00Lecithin 6.00
Schibutter 3,00 α-Glucosylrutin 0,50 α-Tocopherol 0,20Ski butter 3.00 α-glucosyl rutin 0.50 α-tocopherol 0.20
Mg-ascobylphosphat 0,80Mg ascobyl phosphate 0.80
Natriumeitrat 0,50Sodium citrate 0.50
Glycin 0,20Glycine 0.20
Harnstoff 0,20Urea 0.20
Natrium PCA 0,50Sodium PCA 0.50
Hydrolysiertes Kollagen 2,00Hydrolyzed collagen 2.00
Xanthan Gummi 1,40Xanthan gum 1.40
Sorbitol 3,00Sorbitol 3.00
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Epigallocatechingallat 1 ,20Epigallocatechin gallate 1, 20
Wasser ad 100,00 Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 6Example 6
SonnenschutzemulsionSunscreen emulsion
Gew.-%% By weight
Cyclomethicon 2,00Cyclomethicone 2.00
Cetyldimethicon Copolyol 0,20Cetyl dimethicone copolyol 0.20
PEG 22-Dodecyl Copolymer 3,00PEG 22-dodecyl copolymer 3.00
Paraffinöl (DAB 9) 2,00Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 2.00
Caprylsäure-/Caprinsäure Triglycerid 5,80Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 5.80
Octylmethoxycinnamat 5,80Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.80
Butyl-methoxy-dibenzoylmethan 4,00 α-Glucosylrutin 0,25Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane 4.00 α-glucosyl rutin 0.25
Epigallocatechingallat 0,50 α-Tocopherylacetat 0,50Epigallocatechin gallate 0.50 α-tocopheryl acetate 0.50
ZnSO4 0,70 ZnSO 4 0.70
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s. Wasser ad 100,00 Preservatives, dyes, perfume qs water ad 100.00
Beispiel 7Example 7
SonnenschutzemulsionSunscreen emulsion
Gew.-%% By weight
Cyclomethicon 2,00Cyclomethicone 2.00
Cetylstearylalkohol + PEG 40-hydriertes Rizi2,50 nusöl + Natrium Cetylstearyisulfat Giyceryllanolat 1 ,00Cetylstearyl alcohol + PEG 40-hydrogenated Rizi2.50 nut oil + sodium cetylstearyisulfate Giyceryllanolat 1, 00
Caprylsäure-/Caprinsäure Triglycerid 0,10Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 0.10
Laurylmethicon Copolyol 2,00Laurylmethicone Copolyol 2.00
Octylstearat 3,00Octyl stearate 3.00
Rizinusöl 4,00Castor oil 4.00
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Acrylamid/Natriumacrylat Copolymer 0,30Acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer 0.30
Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose 0,30Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose 0.30
Octylmethoxycinnamat 5,00Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.00
Butyl-methoxy-dibenzoylmethan 0,50 α-Glucosylrutin 0,10Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane 0.50 α-glucosyl rutin 0.10
Epigallocatechingallat 0,20 α-Tocopherylacetat 1 ,00Epigallocatechin gallate 0.20 α-tocopheryl acetate 1.00
Na3HEDTA 1 ,50Na 3 HEDTA 1, 50
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Mg-Ascorbylphosphat 0,50Mg ascorbyl phosphate 0.50
Wasser ad 100,00 Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 8Example 8
SonnenschutzemulsionSunscreen emulsion
Gew.-%% By weight
Cyclomethicon 2,00Cyclomethicone 2.00
Cetylstearylalkohol +PEG 40-hydriertes 2,50 Rizinusöl +Natrium Cetylstearyisulfat Giyceryllanolat 1,00Cetylstearyl alcohol + PEG 40 hydrogenated 2.50 castor oil + sodium cetylstearyisulfate glyceryl alcoholate 1.00
Caprylsäure-/Caprinsäure Trigiycerid 0,10Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride 0.10
Laurylmethicon Copolyol 2,00Laurylmethicone Copolyol 2.00
Octylstearat 3,00Octyl stearate 3.00
Rizinusöl 4,00Castor oil 4.00
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Acrylamid/Natriumacrylat Copolymer 0,30Acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer 0.30
Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose 0,30Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose 0.30
Octylmethoxycinnamat 5,00Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.00
Butyl-methoxy-dibenzoylmethan 0,75 α-Glucosylrutin 0,50Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane 0.75 α-glucosyl rutin 0.50
Na3HEDTA 1,50Na 3 HEDTA 1.50
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Epigallocatechingallat 3,00Epigallocatechin gallate 3.00
Wasser ad 100,00Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 9Example 9
SprayformulierungSpray formulation
Gew.-%% By weight
Epigallocatechingallat 0,30Epigallocatechin gallate 0.30
Dihydrorobinetin 0,80Dihydrorobinetin 0.80
Ethanol 28,20Ethanol 28.20
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Propan/Butan 25/75 ad 100,00 Beispiel 10Propane / butane 25/75 ad 100.00 Example 10
W/O CremeW / O cream
Gew.%% By weight
Paraffinöl (DAB 9) 10,00Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 10.00
Petrolatum 4,00Petrolatum 4.00
Wollwachsalkohol 1 ,00Wool wax alcohol 1.00
PEG-7-Hydriertes Rizinusöl 3,00PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 3.00
Aluminiumstearat 0,40 α-Glucosylrutin 0,50Aluminum stearate 0.40 α-glucosyl rutin 0.50
Glycerin 2,00Glycerin 2.00
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Extrakt von grünem Tee 0,20 Wasser ad 100,00Green tea extract 0.20 water ad 100.00
Beispiel 11Example 11
W/O LotionW / O lotion
Gew.-%% By weight
Paraffinöl (DAB 9) 20,00Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 20.00
Petrolatum 4,00Petrolatum 4.00
Glucosesesquiisostearat 2,00Glucose sesquiisostearate 2.00
Aluminiumstearat 0,40 α-Glucosylrutin 0,30 α-Tocopherylacetat 1 ,00Aluminum stearate 0.40 α-glucosyl rutin 0.30 α-tocopheryl acetate 1.00
Glycerin 5,00Glycerin 5.00
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Extrakt von grünem Tee 0,50Green tea extract 0.50
Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 12Water ad 100.00 Example 12
O/W LotionO / W lotion
Gew.-%% By weight
Paraffinöl (DAB 9) 8,00Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 8.00
Isopropylpalmitat 3,00Isopropyl palmitate 3.00
Petrolatum 4,00,Petrolatum 4.00,
Cetylstearylalkohol 2,00Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00
PEG 40 Rizinusöl 0,50PEG 40 castor oil 0.50
Natriumcetylstearylsulfat 0,50Sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate 0.50
Natrium Carbomer 0,40 α-Glucosylrutin 0,50 Glycerin 3,00 α-Tocopherol 0,20Sodium carbomer 0.40 α-glucosyl rutin 0.50 glycerin 3.00 α-tocopherol 0.20
Octylmethoxycinnamat 5,00Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.00
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 1 ,00Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 1.00
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Extrakt von grünem Tee 0,05Green tea extract 0.05
Wasser ad 100,00Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 13Example 13
O/W CremeO / W cream
Gew.-%% By weight
Paraffinöl (DAB 9) 7,00Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 7.00
Avocadoöl 4,00Avocado oil 4.00
Glycerylmonostearat 2,00 α-Glucosylrutin o,80 α-Tocopherylacetat 1,50Glyceryl monostearate 2.00 α-glucosyl rutin 0.80 α-tocopheryl acetate 1.50
Natriumlactat 3,00Sodium lactate 3.00
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Extrakt von grünem Tee 3,ooGreen tea extract 3, oo
Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 14Water ad 100.00 Example 14
Liposomenhaltiges GelGel containing liposomes
Gew.-%% By weight
Lecithin 6,00Lecithin 6.00
Schibutter 3,00 α-Glucosylrutin 0,50 α-Tocopherol 0,20Ski butter 3.00 α-glucosyl rutin 0.50 α-tocopherol 0.20
Mg-ascobylphosphat 0,80Mg ascobyl phosphate 0.80
Natriumeitrat 0,50Sodium citrate 0.50
Glycin 0,20Glycine 0.20
Harnstoff 0,20Urea 0.20
Natrium PCA 0,50Sodium PCA 0.50
Hydrolysiertes Kollagen 2,00Hydrolyzed collagen 2.00
Xanthan Gummi 1 ,40Xanthan gum 1, 40
Sorbitol 3,00Sorbitol 3.00
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Extrakt von grünem Tee 1 ,20Green tea extract 1, 20
Wasser ad 100,00 Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 15Example 15
SonnenschutzemulsionSunscreen emulsion
Gew.-%% By weight
Cyclomethicon 2,00Cyclomethicone 2.00
Cetyldimethicon Copolyol 0,20Cetyl dimethicone copolyol 0.20
PEG 22-Dodecyl Copolymer 3,00PEG 22-dodecyl copolymer 3.00
Paraffinöl (DAB 9) 2,00Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 2.00
Caprylsäure-/Caprinsäure Triglycerid 5,80Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 5.80
Octylmethoxycinnamat 5,80Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.80
Butyl-methoxy-dibenzoylmethan 4,00 α-Glucosylrutin 0,25Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane 4.00 α-glucosyl rutin 0.25
Extrakt von grünem Tee 0,50 α-Tocopherylacetat 0,50Green tea extract 0.50 α-tocopheryl acetate 0.50
ZnSO4 0,70ZnSO 4 0.70
N34EDTA 0,30N3 4 EDTA 0.30
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s. Wasser ad 100,00 Preservatives, dyes, perfume qs water ad 100.00
Beispiel 16Example 16
SonnenschutzemulsionSunscreen emulsion
Gew.-%% By weight
Cyclomethicon 2,00Cyclomethicone 2.00
Cetylstearylalkohol + PEG 40-hydriertes Rizi2,50 nusöl + Natrium Cetylstearyisulfat Giyceryllanolat 1 ,00Cetylstearyl alcohol + PEG 40 hydrogenated Rizi2.50 nut oil + sodium cetylstearyisulfate glyceryl alcoholate 1.00
Caprylsäure-/Caprinsäure Triglycerid 0,10Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride 0.10
Laurylmethicon Copolyol 2,00Laurylmethicone Copolyol 2.00
Octylstearat 3,00Octyl stearate 3.00
Rizinusöl 4,00Castor oil 4.00
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Acrylamid/Natriumacrylat Copolymer 0,30Acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer 0.30
Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose 0,30Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose 0.30
Octylmethoxycinnamat 5,00Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.00
Butyl-methoxy-dibenzoylmethan 0,50 α-Glucosylrutin 0,10Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane 0.50 α-glucosyl rutin 0.10
Extrakt von grünem Tee 0,20 α-Tocopherylacetat 1,00Green tea extract 0.20 α-tocopheryl acetate 1.00
Na3HEDTA 1,50Na 3 HEDTA 1.50
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Mg-Ascorbylphosphat 0,50Mg ascorbyl phosphate 0.50
Wasser ad 100,00 Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 17Example 17
SonnenschutzemulsionSunscreen emulsion
Gew.-%% By weight
Cyclomethicon 2,00Cyclomethicone 2.00
Cetylstearylalkohol +PEG 40-hydriertes 2,50 Rizinusöl +Natrium Cetylstearyisulfat Giyceryllanolat 1,00Cetylstearyl alcohol + PEG 40 hydrogenated 2.50 castor oil + sodium cetylstearyisulfate glyceryl alcoholate 1.00
Caprylsäure-/Caprinsäure Triglycerid 0,10Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride 0.10
Laurylmethicon Copolyol 2,00Laurylmethicone Copolyol 2.00
Octylstearat 3,00Octyl stearate 3.00
Rizinusöl 4,00Castor oil 4.00
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Acrylamid/Natriumacrylat Copolymer 0,30Acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer 0.30
Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose 0,30Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose 0.30
Octylmethoxycin namat 5,00Octyl methoxycin namate 5.00
Butyl-methoxy-dibenzoylmethan 0,75 α-Glucosylrutin 0,50Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane 0.75 α-glucosyl rutin 0.50
Na3HEDTA 1,50Na 3 HEDTA 1.50
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Extrakt von grünem Tee 3,00Green tea extract 3.00
Wasser ad 100,00Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 18Example 18
SprayformulierungSpray formulation
Gew.-%% By weight
Extrakt von grünem Tee 0,30Green tea extract 0.30
Dihydrorobinetin 0,80Dihydrorobinetin 0.80
Ethanol 28,20Ethanol 28.20
Konservierungsmittel, Farbstoffe, Parfüm q.s.Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.
Propan/Butan 25/75 ad 100,00 Propane / butane 25/75 ad 100.00

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Verwendung von Catechinen oder Gallensäureestem von Catechinen oder wäßriger bzw. organischer Extrakte aus Pflanzen oder Pflanzenteilen, die einen Gehalt an Catechinen oder Gallensäureestem von Catechinen aufweisen, beispielsweise den Blättern der Pflanzenfamilie Theaceae, insbesondere der Spezies Camellia sinensis (grüner Tee) bzw. deren typische Inhaltsstoffe (wie z.B. Polyphenole bzw. Catechine, Coffein, Vitamine, Zucker, Mineralien, Aminosäuren, Lipide), zur Verstärkung der natürlichen Hautbräunung bzw. zur Stimulierung der Melanogenese der menschlichen Haut.1. Use of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, for example the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular the Camellia sinensis species (green tea) or the like typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids), to enhance the natural tanning of the skin or to stimulate the melanogenesis of human skin.
2. Verwendung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das oder die Catechine gewählt wird oder werden aus der Gruppe (-)-Catechin, (+)-Catechin, (-)-Catechin Gallat, (-)-Gallocatechin Gallat, (+)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)- Epicatechin Gallat, (-)-Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin Gallat.2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the or the catechins is selected or are selected from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+ ) -Epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.
3. Verwendung nach Anspruch 1 , in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen enthaltend pflanzliche Auszüge mit einem Gehalt an Catechinen, insbesondere solchen Zubereitungen, die Extrakte des grünen Tees enthalten. 3. Use according to claim 1, in cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing plant extracts containing catechins, in particular those preparations which contain extracts of green tea.
EP99929230A 1998-06-20 1999-06-16 Use of cosmetic compositions containing catechins or green tea extract for sun-tanning Withdrawn EP1089707A1 (en)

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DE19827624 1998-06-20
DE19827624A DE19827624A1 (en) 1998-06-20 1998-06-20 Use of catechols or plant extracts containing them in intensifying natural skin tanning or in stimulating melanogenesis
PCT/EP1999/004146 WO1999066897A1 (en) 1998-06-20 1999-06-16 Use of cosmetic compositions containing catechins or green tea extract for sun-tanning

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