EP1021604B1

EP1021604B1 - Needle-like scissors tool for use in embroidery and the like for openwork techniques of cutwork adapted to transform a needle carrier rod

Info

Publication number: EP1021604B1
Application number: EP96945557A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Vanna Ciapparelli; Giuseppe Piantadosi
Original assignee: Confezione Venere Di Ciapparel; Confezione Venere di Ciapparelli Vanna
Current assignee: Confezioni Venere Di Ciapparelli Vanna
Priority date: 1995-11-30
Filing date: 1996-12-03
Publication date: 2003-08-13
Anticipated expiration: 2016-12-03
Also published as: WO1998024962A1; EP1021604A1; ITVA950023A1; IT1282343B1

Description

Needle-like scissors tool for use in embroidery and the like for openwork techniques of cutwork adapted to transform a needle carrier rod in a scissoring device and process and means for making it and using such device
The present invention relates generally to machine embroidery, intended as addition of pattern or other ornamental effects to a fabric by the use of needle and thread. In particular relates to the provision of similar effects by its ancillary openwork techniques of cutwork, wherein holes are cut in the cloth and their edges and borders embroidered or decorated with needle and thread. When such openwork by cutwork was handmade, the cutting in of holes of any size and shape, as a rule, was made by scissors, before bordering or embroidering of their edges, in order to obtain neat embroidered fresh edges. Exceptionally the holes were cut in by scissors after embroidering thereof. Of course, the result of cutwork made afterwards was poor, since the edges provided by the scissors, were forcibly imperfect and not constant, in that comprised by the cut thread ends projecting from the finished embroidery border left by the scissors handled by an operator worried to cut "not enough" or "too much". For obvious reasons it was impossible to cut in small holes after embroidering with needle and thread.
At the present state of the art the openwork by cutwork with embroidering machines is almost impossible. In particular, it is impossible to cut out any cloth section. Any cutwork is to be delaied to when the uncut in goods, embroidered with needle and thread, leave the machine and handmade, with the drawbacks hereabove set forth, but with an incidence much more detrimental. In fact, the market is prepared to accept the cost and the quality of completely handmade embroidery, but refuses industrial embroidery, whose cost and quality are highly determined by the need of having cutwork handmade cutting, in a machine made pattern. The market refusal is not due only to a choice of the consumer, but rather to a difficulty of the manufacturer to harmonize the big quantities of cutworkless goods obtainable from the machines and the enormous respective quantity of labour necessary to cut in, by hand, with scissors, any embroidery hole. Once, the same people who made the cutwork, provided also the embroidery with needle and thread, thus, a manufacturer, engaged a working team, in agreement with the average costumer demand, without worrying if the work to be made, was more to be done with needle and thread or cutwork, beforehand or afterward. Anything was easy and the costumer recognized the conformity of manufacturing attributes: such as price, quantity, quality and delivery. On the contrary, for the industrial manufacturer the attribute of delivery is a real quiz, since it is calculated that for the cutwork of each machine, whose production includes embroidery relatively easy to be provided with needle and thread and relatively difficult to cut in; at least twenty people are necessary. However, such a higher number of people could not be permanently engaged, since the demand of openwork embroidery is a variable. Thus, only the manufacturers in a position of providing enough labour for openwork, by hand, by cutwork, survived.
On their side the manufacturers of embroidering machines (three or four in the World), being unable to provide the machines with openwork by cutwork means, enriched the embroidering machines of heads and each head with needle bars, in order to suggest a substitution of openwork effects with a richer variety of colours and threads or combination thereof. The only finding, thought out by the embroidery machine manufacturers, to remedy means capable of any kind of openwork, was the optional provision of a piercing tool which was called "borer" to be applied to one of the bars of each head. Such borer is in the form of triangular or square pyramidal sharp pointed instrument, capable of boring through the cloth to be embroidered, as well as its backing paper. The needle carrying bar carries, on an axes parallel to the needle axes, a borer carrier. The bar of the head, provided with such borer is left without needle, and its thread detector is rendered inactive and its pressing foot operates distantly. Even the borer hole provided through the plate is larger than that in the needle plate; thus, the borer may have a cross section dimension larger than the diameters of the needle and of the needle plate hole. The corner edges of borer are arranged as blades. When the borer pierces the cloth, leaves a series of flaps, whose number is the same as the sides or corners or cutting edges of pyramidal tool. When the borer is moved in the direction of its blades the flaps are enlarged. This can be made only slightly up to a maximum total dimension of ten millimetres, otherwise it is impossible to embody such flaps in the embroidery satin. When the cloth and or the backing paper are rather thick with respect to the satin width the capability of the latter to contain the flaps is reduced and only the flaps strictly resulting from the mere sole boring through. Thus, the borer remedies only the problem of very small holes, those which cannot be provided with the scissors after embroidery. Any other larger openwork was to be made by hand cutwork. Since the borer provides a piercing action, it is almost impossible to obtain thereby a reasonable openwork by cutwork. For a reasonable openwork by cutwork, a continuous cut, capable of severing a cut out cloth slip, is necessary. Even in case that the severing by a series of borer punching is successful, difficulties arise, which renders this kind of cut unpractical for any embroidery result. I.e.:
a) The cut edge resulting by a series of borer punching is clearly unpresentable;
b) The cut resulting by a series of borer punching, severs an unwanted cloth section, which must be removed;
c) in case that the cut is made at the beginning or before any openwork embroidery satin is provided, in order to embody or hinder therein the unpresentable series of borer punching; while no means are available, on known machines, to remove the unwanted slip and to dispose it, so that embroidery can be prosecuted.
d) in case that the cut is made as last step of the embroidery process or at least after any openwork embroidery satin is provided, no problem arises to remove the unwanted slip and to dispose it. However the unpresentable cut edge stands projecting out, from the finished satin;
e) in both cases the advantages are largely impaired by drawbacks.
Summarizing the aforesaid, about the present state of the art, it is noted:
1) with the present embroidery machines and techniques it is impossible to execute any openwork by cutwork;
2) any openwork by cutwork is to be delaied to when the openworkless embroidery leaves the machine and the cutwork handmade by scissors;
3) of course it is also impossible, with known embroidery machines, to perform other openwork-like cutworks or non rectilinear multidirectional cuts, such as: outward cutting of cloth and particularly of labels etc.
4) Very small openworks, which cannot be cut in by scissors, may be prepared by piercing the cloth with a borer applied to one bar of each head parallel to the needle, whose performance is that of providing a number of cloth and paper flaps to be included in the surrounding satin. This is possible in as much as there is a certain relation between the volume of the flaps and the extension of the satin so that the latter can contain the former.
JP-A-07204375 discloses a particular borer to be applied on the lower end of one of the needle bars and can be run through the conventional passage hole of its needle plate, to bore a material, while stitching is performed by sewing needles mounted on other needle bars. Such borer may have the cutting edge formed of more sharp parts in a range of the width thereof. Below the passage hole of the needle plate are provided dropping removers whose dimension cannot exceed the size of such passage hole such as dust. With such an arrangement it is possible to perform rectilinear cuts, such as: button holes, eyepocket openings, and dispose for the doppings resulting from the borer working. However, as aforesaid, it is impossible to perform other openwork-like cutworks or non rectilinear multidirectional cuts, such as: outward cutting of cloth and particularly of labels etc. both for the reason no perimetral cut can be provided and/or removed and disposed by the machine equipements.
US-A-3539314 discloses a tween-screw feed which with the helical grooves thereof feeds the rods to be worked, in succession, to a plurality of longitudinally-spaced belt grinders. It would be impossible to use such a device to sharp needle-like scissor tools whose cross-section is not constant and their end is to be shaped by grinding in the form of a fish-tail. This shaping by grinding requires a stepwise accurate positioning of the work for engagement with each of the grinding wheels providing the perpendicular grinding stations.
The invention, as claimed, is intended to remedy these drawbacks. The inventors, with ingenious perception, have conceived a needle-like scissoring tool, for use in embroidery and the like for openwork techniques of cutwork adapted to transform a needle carrier rod in a scissoring device, as well as a process and means for making it and using such device, with the features contained in the claims.
Ways of carrying out the invention are described in detail below, with reference to drawings and examples, which illustrate specific embodiments, in which:
Figure 1 is the front view, in an enlarged scale, of a needle-like scissors tool according to the invention.
Figure 2 is the repetition of figure 1, in an even more enlarged scale, wherein only a section of needle-like scissors tool according to the invention is shown.
Figure 3 is the side view, of the needle-like scissors tool according to the invention of fig. 2, in the same enlarged scale.
Figure 4 is a view similar to figures 2 and 3. but showing a needle-like scissors tool whose blade is bent.
Figure 5 shows the potential penetration of the needle-like scissors tool in a cloth, shown in vertical cross-sections, and its respective effect on the warp or on the weft, which is cut and on the weft or the warp which is simply side slipped.
Figure 6 is the plane view, in a very enlarged scale, of a cloth which was provided by three needle-like scissors tools (VOB oriented) according to the invention, with cuts.
Figure 7 is the view from the bottom of the settling of four needle-like scissors tools, on the bars hole of a head, duly oriented with the help of a template according to the invention.
Figure 8 is a perspective composite view, substantially comprising the previous figures, also in order to provide a, suitable, significative, abstract figure.
Figure 9 is a panoramic on the embroidery machine regarding one head and the particulars affected by the present invention.
Figure 10 is a scheme drafted to provide necessary information and parameters for the drafting of the computer program.
Figure 11 is substantially a repetition of fig. 10 wherein handmade drafting of the cuts to be substantially programmed by computer are provided.
Figure 12 is another graph instrument to help the computer programmer.
Figure 13 is an approximate menu to help the computer programmer.
Figure 14 is a schematic plane view of the trunnion roundabout machine according to the present invention..
Figure 15, from 0 to 20, shows the side views of the blank (0), of upper roughing (1), of bottom roughing (2), of upper finishing (3), of bottom finishing (4), made with even grinders, as well as, the indentation upper roughing and upper finishing steps 5, 7. 9, 11, 13, 15. (17, 19) and indentation bottom roughing and finishing steps (6, 8. 10, 12, 14, 16. (18, 20).
Figure 16 from A to G shows, in perspective views, the succession of shaping and/or rough material removal, grinding and finishing of the needle-like scissors tool (1) according to the invention.
Figure 17 is a demonstrative graph, showing the principle of task subdivision among the working units; it gives the variation of material removal in function of the number of pieces.
Figure 18 shows driving ratchet-gear means, to rotate at least a single bar (7) in order to rotate the needle-like cutting tool (1) fastened thereto and having complementary means associated to the pantograph (8) of coordinates Xd₁, Yd₁.
Figure 19 shows a flow chart-discard removing means (4) comprising a pneumatic device (4').
Figure 20 and 21 show mechanic discard piercing and grappling needle-like tool (41") applicable to a needle carrying bar (7) and having as complementary means associated to the pantograph (8) an arrangement (40") to remove the grappled discard (80') in a point of engagement of coordinates Xd₁, Yd₁.
Figure 22 shows, in an enlarged scale, a pattern to be read with reference to the example given hereafter.
Figure 23 shows in an enlarged scale, an handmade openworking after embroidery patterning, with needle and thread
Figure 24 shows, in an enlarged scale, an openworking, after embroidery patterning with needle and thread, obtained with process and means according to the present invention.
Figure 25 shows, in an enlarged scale, an openworking before embroidery patterning with needle and thread, obtained with process and means according to the present invention.
Referring now to the figures of the drawings a machine 90 equipped for straight and/or omniform stitching (fig 9) with needles 01 and thread 010 conventionally comprises:

at least one stitching device 91 or a plurality of stitching devices 91 (figures from 7 to 9) providing a plurality of fixed heads (9) each including more needle 01 and needle carrier bars 7 which are movable with respect to said heads 9, in order that any of said bars 7 may be placed coaxial to said head in engagement with a device which drives the needle carrier bar 7 up and down, each of said heads 9 being substantially associated to a common stitching device 91; wherein each of said bars 7 comprises: a) a vertical hole 7' for receiving a needle 01, b) a presser foot 70 with a hole 70' surrounding the needle 01, c) an optional support for the provision of a borer, a thread detector 71. Each of said heads is provided with: A) a common throat plate 92, including the needle and borer holes 92', 92", B) a common hook assembly 93; and C a common thread detector counterdevice (94).

The machine comprise as well as a common paper 81 - cloth 80 carrying pantograph 8 to position the cloth 80 thereon and movable with respect to the sewing head 9 or to the axis of its borer holes 92". Said movement of said bars 7 with respect to the said head axis, said driving up and down of the active bar 7 and said movements of said pantograph 8, i.e. of cloth 80 thereon, are controlled by a computer Cp (figures 13 and 19) whose software gives, for each of the about 800 steps per minute, the due signals. Each stitch or step performed was devoted to an immediate or absolute target wherein the action corresponded to the embroidery bit to be stitched and wherein the needle falling the right place provided by the computer controlling the pantograph . Also direct is the correspondence between the borer and the place where it is needed.
In accordance with the present invention a complementary automatical cutworking system 05. 1, 1', 1'", 1"", 4, 4', 4", 5, 5", 5n, 6-6v, 40", 41", 94, 130-220, A-C, D-F, G, G' is provided, including the following hardware and software arrangements, which are additional and/or modify and/or integrates the known hardware and software arrangements.

Needle-like cutting tools 1 whose bottom end 1' is shaped as a substantially diametral blade 1' adapted to perform cuts in the direction B, O, S, V of its assemblage to the needle bore 7' of the carrier bar 7 (figures 1-4 and 7-9)
An equipment 130-220, A-C, D-F, G to sharp said needle-like cutting tools 1 to be described later on
A template 6 (figures 7 and 8) provided with oriented openings 6b-6v for tutoring the operator in the application of the oriented needle-like cutting tools 1 to the head needle carrying bars 7 or bores 7' thereof.
Command means having at least one member 5', 5", 5n on a fixed part of the machine and at least one members 05 attached to the pantograph 8, capable of emitting electronic, optical or wire-born signal commands, when such members 5-05 are brought together in an engagement point of coordinates Xc₁, Yc₁ ....Xc_n, Yc_n,
Discard removing means 4, G' comprising a pneumatic device 4' operating by suction Asp, Ho (figures 9 and 19) and/or a mechanic discard piercing and grappling needle-like tool 41" (fig 20) applicable to a needle carrying bar 7 and having as complementary means, associated to the pantograph 8, an arrangement 40" (fig. 21) to remove the grappled discard 80' in a point of engagement of coordinates Xd₁, Yd₁;
Driving ratchet-gear means 009-0018, P (figures 9 and 18) to rotate at least one single bar 7 in order to turn therewith the needle-like cutting tool 1 fastened thereto and having complementary means associated to the pantograph 8 of coordinates Xd₁, Yd₁ ;

Referring now to figures 1 to 3, in accordance with a preferred embodiment of the present invention to improve the efficacy of needle-like cutting tool 1, its blade is made fishtail-like to provide an action equal to the action provided by scissors blade, not shown, the only difference being that the scissors blade pairs operates longitudinally to the cloth to be cut instead of an upright approach and the blade closure is perfectly equivalent to the descending movement provided by the needle carrier bar 7 of a stitching device 91. In practice in quite a lot of cases the scissors are used, for cutting particularly thin sheet materials, with open blades, pushing the blade corner against the sheet to be cut. The arrangement is such that the scissors-like pair of blades provide a longer cutting edge so that the two sides thereof provide a joint action which is even better than the action provided by the scissors, since the scissors pivoted blades edges in no case can be complanar as are those of needle-like scissors tool 1 of the present invention. Thus the scissors-like blades of the tool & of the present invention cut the fibres 08"giving lieu to a vertical force component F_T which is reduced and centripetal in accordance with the formula: FT=RF• nF • cosαCT ; RV=FT • cosα;RO=FT•senα ; wherein
F_T= cutting force;
R_F= resistance of the thread fibres o to cutting;
n_F= number of thread fibres to be cut;
α = blade angle with respect to the needle-like scissors tool axis;
C_T = cutting coefficient (grinding);
R_V= Vertical reaction (perpendicular to the cloth);
R_O= Horizontal reaction (on the cloth plane).
With reference to fig. 4 in accordance with another preferred embodiment of the invention, when the openwork to be cut in the cloth is tortuous, the edge of the cutting blade 1"" of the needle-like cutter 1 is made bent and is fastened to the head of the machine oriented by 90º or 45º, according to the number of bars engaged if they are two or four.
With reference to figures 9 and 18 a device for controlling and particularly roughly orienting the needle-like tools 1 to provide automatically on embroidery machines cutwork before and after patterning is provided. Such device may be applied to one vertical hole 7' of a single cutting tool carrier bar 7 of each head 9. Such device is comprised by a ratchet gear 009 having a number of teeth 009' between 8 and 32 and the change of position, from the previous to the next, may be obtained mechanically through a movement of the pantograph 8, which provides an engagement between a servo-control, not shown and an end switch, not shown.
In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the present invention a ratchet gear driven by an electromagnet P is provided; the arrangement is such that when the ratchet gear 009 makes a step an angle rotation of α = 180/n follows; wherein n is the number of possible positions. The driving takes place controlling the machine pantograph 8 which may be moved together with the cloth 80to be embroidered with respect to the stitching needle 01. A sensor is provided, which, in function of the angle α¹>α one or more strokes of the ratchet gear 009-018 are quickly obtained.
To avoid the repetition of an high number of strokes, particularly when α is relatively small, it is possible to provide two magnets P, not shown, engaging the ratchet in opposite directions, which will be controlled so as to reach the due position through the shorter path.
Referring now to the process for making the needle-like scissors tool 1, it is started from a two-stepped cylindrical blank 101 (figures 15-0 and 16A), made of still tempered stainless steel, particularly of the series AISI 420. Its working, shaping and finishing is obtained with grinding disc tools 201 to 220, which operate with their flat side to provide the corresponding flat sides 102, 102', 103, 103' (figs 16B to 16 E) and with tangentially shaped and operating grinders 205 to 220, providing the bilateral inlet 104, 104' or 1'", 1"". The machine comprises a platform 130, having twentyfour stations S1 to S20 A, B, C. On a central circular round abaut 130', coaxial with the platform 130, twenty four needle-like blanks 101 are singularly mounted. Thus, at the same time, twenty workings are performed. Upon each step of the round about 130', a blank 101 is charged and a finished needle-like scissors tool 1 is removed. Thus it is estimated that the machine output may be about thousand needle-like scissors tools 1 per hour. To the finishing of the indenting are devoted sixteen steps: eight of which (the odd ones) applied to one side and eight (the even ones) to the back side thereof: starting from rough working and ending with brilliant finishing provided with felt tools. The subdivision of the grinding into a number of steps is instrumental to safeguard the hardening previously made on the blank 101, to avoid an hardening repetition on the finished tool 1. Extremely important is the accuracy of the movements of the machine contrivances, in order to supply, each needle-like scissors tool 1 to be worked before each machine working tool 201-206, in the same position and with constant accuracy. Such accuracy and preciousness is provided through a frontal geared clutch, not shown of the so said "HIRT" kind, arranged between the trunnion roundabout 130' and the platform &'é, to put them in agreement.
In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the specific principle informing the machine equipment operation is that of providing, for each working, from 1 to 20 more operating heads S1 - S20; the first thereof, for each of the two sides, provides the material removal and the other the gauging with occasional or incidental removal of the small residue of the previous one (fig. 17). After a number n of needle-like scissors tools 1 the first unit has removed the material corresponding to the section A, not shown, of the graph and the limit of acceptability has been reached.
After n₁ needle-like scissors tools 1 the second unit 2 has removed the material corresponding to the section A1= about A and so on, with a substantially exponential trend.
When all the units 3, 4, .... etc. have exhausted their working capability a new setting of the machine is provided, possibly by changing the working grinders 201-206.
The process for supplying and controlling the machine as described comprises mainly the drafting of a computer program as shown in fig. 13 wherein the following menu is provided;
Considered that the coordinates given to the pantograph 8 are referred to the axes of the cutting tool bar 7 in force, corresponding with the middle point of the tool blade, so that for safely and precisely approaching the patterned satin, the points to be coordinated must be kept at a distance x= L_t sen α/2; wherein: L_t = cutting edge length; α = angle between the tangent of the pattern and the blade in accordance with the graph of fig, 12
Referring now to figures 10 and 11 and further considering t= minimum tolerance adapted for external Pte and internal Ptd cutwork on already patterned clothes 80 and T= highest tolerance for internal cutwork Ptp of not yet patterned clothes which program gives:
I) for openworking before Ptp embroidery patterning C with needle and thread the pantograph series of coordinates, as well as which of the needle-like cutting tool 1 is x wanted to perform each cut (V, O, B, S), limiting the cutting effect within a perimeter of points: P_tp=m_n± (1/2C-T-x);
II) for openworking after Ptd embroidery patterning C with needle and thread the pantograph series of coordinates, as well as which (V, O, B, S) of the needle-like cutting tools 1 is wanted to perform each cut, limiting the cutting effect within a perimeter of points: P_td=m_n± (1/2C+T+x)
III) for label (external) cutworking Pte after embroidery patterning with needle and thread,the pantograph series of coordinates, as well as which (V, O, B, S) of the needle-like cutting tools 1 is wanted to perform each cut, limiting the cutting effect within a perimeter of points:P_td=m_n± (1/2C+T+x).
The process for supplying and controlling the machine as described comprises further:
the control of mechanic discard piercing and grappling device 4" (figures 20, 21) having the discard piercing and grappling needle-like tool 41" applied to a needle carrying bar 7 and having as complementary means associated to the pantograph 8 an arrangement 40" to remove the grappled discard 80' in a point of engagement of coordinates Xd₁, Yd₁.
the inactivation of each of said thread detectors 71' associated to each of those needle carrying bars 7 provided with such cutting tools 1;
the control of equipment for sharping said needle-like cutting tools 1
The operation of finishing of said equipment for sharping said needle-like cutting tools 1 are devoted sixteen steps: eight of which (the odd ones) applied to one side and eight (the even ones) to the back side thereof. starting from rough working and ending with brilliant finishing provided with felt tools, wherein the subdivision of the grinding into a number of steps is instrumental to safeguard the hardening previously made on the blank, to avoid an hardening repetition on the finished tool. Said equipment (130-220, A-C, D-F, G) for sharping said needle-like cutting tools 1 operates providing, for each working, more operating heads, wherein the first thereof for each of the two sides provides the material removal and the other the gauging with occasional or incidental removal of the small residue of the previous one, whereby upon a number (n) of needle-like scissors tools 1 the first unit has removed the material corresponding to one section A, not shown and the limit of acceptability has been reached, while upon a number (n₁) of needle-like scissors tools 1 the second unit has removed the material corresponding to the section A1= about A, and so on, with a substantially exponential trend. On said two-stepped cylindrical blank 101 are provided the following working steps: 1) upper roughing, 2) bottom roughing, 3) upper finishing and 4) bottom finishing, made with even grinders, as well as, the indentation upper roughing and upper finishing steps (5, 7. 9, 11, 13, 15. (17, 19) and indentation bottom roughing and finishing steps (6, 8. 10, 12, 14, 16. (18, 20) whereby providing the succession of shaping and/or rough material removal, grinding and finishing (A to G) of the needle-like scissors tool 1.
The process for pneumatic discard removing is controlled by a computer (Cp) substantially according the following flow chart (G').
wherein: Asp.= Aspirator, Cp.= Computer (Cp), Lp.= Sewing, Lut.= Tool working (Lut), Msw.= Tool oriented application, Sc.= Discard, T.= Cutting,
A clarifying example will be given. For the reason to be explained later on, the following correspondences were established:
V= Vertical = Violet;
O= Horizontal = Orange;
B= Bar= blue = 45º = /=acute='
S=Slash=Silver=45º=\=grave='

EXAMPLE

With a conventional embroidery machine 90 with twentyfour heads 9 provided each with at least six needle carrying bars 7 and conventional means a pattern 80 was provided. Such pattern 80 was substantially quadrangular and was comprised of three sides of a square and a demicircle, having a diameter equal to the square sides. Five of the six needle carrier bars were provided with threads 010 with the colours white (W), Violet (V), Orange (O), Blue (B) and Silver (S). The pattern (figures 10 and 11) was comprised by four members: one main member in turn including a zig zag basting line m, a satin R and three internal testing sewed perimeters respectively at a distance from the internal edge of the satin R of mm 0,1, 0,3, 0,5. The perimeter standing closer to the satin (sewn in white) was sewn with the four colours i.e. Orange for the base (O) and the top (O') Violet of the square sides (V, 'V) and for the arch bottom ends (V', 'V') blue for the segment arch (B, 'B) connecting the violet arch (V' with the orange top (O')and silver (S) for the segment arch connecting orange top (O') with the violet arch ('V'). When the pattern was completed in all its members twenty of the twentyfour embroidered pieces were removed and given to twenty operators for cutwork test by scissors, of course recommending to them to place the cutwork between the satin internal edge and its closed coloured perimeter standing at a distance of 0.1 mm from such edge. From the four heads still carrying the openworkless embroidery the needle carried by the bars provided with the coloured thread were removed the thread control was rendered inactive and in place of the needle a scissor needle-like tool according to the invention was mounted on the corresponding bar. To comply invention provision the application was made with the help of a mask according to the invention (fig. 5).

LIST OF REFERENCE SYMBOLS:

01.: Needle (01)
05.: Command member (05) attached to 8
010.: Thread (010)
1.: Needle-like cutting tools (1)
1'.: Bottom end or diametral blade (1') of 1
1'".: Cutting tool bilateral indenting (1'", 1"")
1"".: Cutting tool bilateral indenting (1"")
4.: Discard removing means (4)
4'.: Pneumatic discard removing means (4')
4".: Piercing and grappling discard removing means (4")
5'.: Fixed command means member (5')
5".: Fixed command means member (5")
5n.: Fixed command means members (5n)
6.: Template (6)
6b-6v.: Oriented openings (6b-6v.) of (6)
7.: Needle carrier bars (7)
7': Vertical hole (7')
8.: Pantograph (8)
9.: Fixed or sewing heads (9)
40".: Arrangement (40") to remove 80'
41".: Discard piercing and grappling needle-like tool (41")
70.: Presser foot (70)
70'.: hole (70') for 70
71: Thread detector (71)
80.: Cloth (80)
80'.: Grappled discard (80')
81.: Paper (81)
90.: Machine (90)
91.: Stitching device (91)
92.: Common throat plate (92)
92': Needle hole (92')
92": Borer hole ( 92")
93.: Common hook assembly (93)
94.: Common thread detector counterdevice (94)
101: Blank (101)
102.: Cutting tool flat side (102)
102'.: Cutting tool flat side (102')
103.: Cutting tool flat side (103)
103'.: Cutting tool flat side (103')
104.: Cutting tool bilateral indenting (104)
104'.: Cutting tool bilateral indenting (104')
130.: Platform (130)
130': Trunnion roundabout (130')
201 to 220.: Grinding disc tools (201 to 220)
A.: Station (A) for 130
Asp.: Aspirator
B.: Station (B) for 130
'B.: = Bar= blue = 45º = /=acute='
C.: Station (C) for 130
Cp.: Computer (Cp)
D.: Station (D) for 130
E.: Station (E) for 130
F: Station (F) for 130
End of cutting and sewing
G.: Station (G) for 130
G'.: Descard removal flow-chart
Lp.: Sewing
Lut.: Tool working (Lut)
Msw.: Tool oriented application
0.: Horizontal = Orange;
Pt.: Cutting program
S.: Slash=Silver=45°=\=grave=
S1-S20.: Stations (S1 to S20)
Sc.: Discard
T.: Cutting
Tpr.: Cutting beforehand
V.: = Vertical = Violet;

Claims

A needle-like cutting tool (1), characterized in that it comprises a cutting blade having a fish-tail shape, said fish-tail shape having two sides thereof which perform a'joint coplanar action.
The cutting tool of claim 1, characterized in that the edge of the cutting blade is bent and is fastened to a head of a machine oriented by 90 or 45 degrees.
Process for manufacturing a needle-like scissors tool, characterized in that it comprises the steps of:

starting from a two-stepped cylindrical blank (101) made of stainless steel, providing flat sides (102, 102', 103, 103') of the tool, using the flat side of grinding disc tools (201-220), and providing bilateral indenting (104, 104', 1"', 1"") using tangentially shaped grinders.
The process of claim 3, characterized in that the step of providing bilateral indenting is performed in sixteen steps, eight of which are applied to one side and eight of which are applied to the other side of the tool.