EP0980930A1 - Process for dyeing of textile materials with indigo using the indoxyle and installation for carrying out the method - Google Patents

Process for dyeing of textile materials with indigo using the indoxyle and installation for carrying out the method Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0980930A1
EP0980930A1 EP98630046A EP98630046A EP0980930A1 EP 0980930 A1 EP0980930 A1 EP 0980930A1 EP 98630046 A EP98630046 A EP 98630046A EP 98630046 A EP98630046 A EP 98630046A EP 0980930 A1 EP0980930 A1 EP 0980930A1
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Prior art keywords
tank
tanks
installation
wire
rollers
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EP98630046A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0980930B1 (en
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François Girbaud
Marie-Thérèse Bachellerie
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Priority to AT98630046T priority Critical patent/ATE287984T1/en
Priority to PT98630046T priority patent/PT980930E/en
Priority to SI9830742T priority patent/SI0980930T1/en
Priority to DE69828781T priority patent/DE69828781T2/en
Priority to EP98630046A priority patent/EP0980930B1/en
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to DK98630046T priority patent/DK0980930T3/en
Priority to ES98630046T priority patent/ES2235306T3/en
Priority to US09/349,692 priority patent/US6090166A/en
Publication of EP0980930A1 publication Critical patent/EP0980930A1/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/22—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using vat dyestuffs including indigo
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B21/00—Successive treatments of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D06B3/12—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics in zig-zag manner over series of guiding means
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0004—General aspects of dyeing
    • D06P1/002—Processing by repeated dyeing, e.g. in different baths
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
    • D06P1/5207—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06P1/5214—Polymers of unsaturated compounds containing no COOH groups or functional derivatives thereof
    • D06P1/5235—Polyalkenyl halides, e.g. PVC
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
    • D06P1/5207—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06P1/525—Polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids or functional derivatives thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
    • D06P1/5264—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions involving only unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds
    • D06P1/5278—Polyamides; Polyimides; Polylactames; Polyalkyleneimines
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
    • D06P1/5264—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions involving only unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds
    • D06P1/5285—Polyurethanes; Polyurea; Polyguanides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
    • D06P1/5264—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions involving only unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds
    • D06P1/5292—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions involving only unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds containing Si-atoms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/653—Nitrogen-free carboxylic acids or their salts
    • D06P1/6533—Aliphatic, araliphatic or cycloaliphatic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/667—Organo-phosphorus compounds
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S8/00—Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification of textiles and fibers
    • Y10S8/916—Natural fiber dyeing
    • Y10S8/918—Cellulose textile
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S8/00—Bleaching and dyeing; fluid treatment and chemical modification of textiles and fibers
    • Y10S8/93—Pretreatment before dyeing
    • Y10S8/931—Washing or bleaching

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a dyeing process of a textile material with indigo using indoxyl and an installation for the implementation of process.
  • a dyed textile yarn is made indigo then used to prepare a tissue called denim fabric with which we make items such as blue jeans, for example.
  • Patent EP-B-0 692 042 describes a method of dyeing a textile material containing cellulose with indigo in which we use a solution aqueous leuco-indigo prepared by hydrogenation catalytic and we convert it to the form pigmented by air oxidation after its rise on the textile material.
  • US-A-4,283,198 describes a continuous process for tincture of cellulose fibers with indigo where passes the fibers through a train of tanks soaking containing a liquor bath comprising leuco-indigo, sodium hydrosulfite and hydroxide sodium.
  • US-A-3,457,022 describes a method of cotton fiber dye with indigo where applied indigo at a temperature between 65 ° C and 80 ° C on the wires and then we apply indigo at temperatures below 40 ° C.
  • Indigo-dyed blue jeans have the disadvantage that it discolours on washing.
  • the way of using the dye facilitated washing and aging. But all fashion is fleeting and does not last only a time.
  • the patent application EP 98630005.1 describes a dyeing process with indigo during which makes a denim fabric that resists wear and discoloration. By this process indigo will penetrate more deep in the thread.
  • the wire included a central core white and only the outer part was tinted to indigo. With the process according to the patent application EP 98 630 005.1 the white central core was much thinner.
  • the object of the present invention is the realization denim fabric that resists wear and fade and the yarn obtained is dyed right through to the point that the white central soul is practically non-existent and has even disappeared.
  • the operations usually performed to dye the yarn in indigo blue, adding additional operations, both in the baths and in the oxidation and prior mercerization to facilitate capacity absorption and impregnation of the wire.
  • the wire is then vaporized under conditions of set temperature and pressure, before washing and mercerized again.
  • the second phase of the process consists in constituting around the now dyed yarn, insulation for the make it immune to washing, and then it's ready to be used. To do this you must first make the wire neutral by successive passages in acid baths.
  • the yarn is then completely dried and the indigo will be definitively fixed with the characteristics desired.
  • the thread obtained by the methods known in the art consists of a white central core, i.e. undyed and by a part external impregnated with indigo dye. Thanks to process according to the invention, the central core will be tinted with right through indigo.
  • prewash step passing the wire F coming from a starting roller on which it is wound through an installation of prewash 1 consisting of two or more tanks 2 containing a prewash solution 10.15.
  • the wire is guided by rollers 3 and 4 in the first tank 2 containing the prewash solution and then leaving this solution it passes between two pressure rollers 5 to remove excess liquid then, guided by roller 6, plunges back in the prewash solution.
  • the wire passes between two pressure rollers 7.
  • the guide rollers 8 and 9 the wire plunges into the prewash solution 15 in the second tank 2.
  • the wire will move in the second tank according to a identical route to that of the first tank passing successively between the two pressure rollers 12, below of the guide roller 11 then between the rollers pressers 13.
  • the prewash solution contains a soaking product such as FINBIL AS (produced by the company Bozzetto) (trade designation) which is an ester derivative phosphoric fatty alcohol. It is used in the solution aqueous in a concentration of 5 to 8 gr / liter. This bath of prewash is used to impregnate the yarn in order to favor the subsequent penetration of indoxyl.
  • FINBIL AS produced by the company Bozzetto
  • Dye baths contain a solution aqueous indoxyl containing 6 to 8% by weight of indoxyl pure.
  • the wires pass through the baths at a speed from 20 to 60 m / minute depending on the type and quality of the wire.
  • the example shown in Figure 2 includes 8 tanks but it goes without saying that the operation can be repeated 2, 3 or more times using two, three or more sets of 8 tanks to obtain a increasing penetration of indoxyl in thread.
  • the wire is passed successively through the tanks 41 to 45 by guiding it by means of the rollers 46, 47 and 48.
  • the tank 41 contains water and in the tanks 42, 43 and 44, water is introduced.
  • acetic acid (CH 3 -COOH) at 50% so that the tank 42 contains a proportion of 20 cc / l, the tank 43 contains 10 cc / l and the tank 44 contains 5 cc / l.
  • the tank 45 again contains water, the final pH being between 6 and 7, preferably 6.7.
  • the pre-wiping is carried out wire passing it around the rollers 50 as we can see it in figure 3.
  • the wire passes through a tank 62 containing a mixture of 63 resins and is guided through of the tank by means of guide rollers 64 and pressure rollers 61.
  • the method according to the invention can be implemented with various types of yarn, for example cotton, cotton and nylon, cotton and polyester etc ....

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

Process for dyeing a textile fabric with indigo comprises passing the fabric through a series of 8 baths of indoxyl solution and, between each bath, oxidizing the indoxyl to indigo by exposing the fabric leaving bath n to air for a time equal to n times x, where x is the exposure time after bath 1. Process for dyeing a textile fabric with indigo comprises: (a) prewashing the fabric by passing it though one or two baths of prewash solution; (b) dyeing the fabric by passing it through a series of 8 baths of indoxyl solution and, between each bath, oxidizing the indoxyl to indigo by exposing the fabric leaving bath n to air for a time equal to n times x, where x is the exposure time after bath 1; (c) washing the fabric by passing it through a water bath, three acetic acid baths and a final water bath with a pH of 6-7, and then predrying the fabric by passing it between rollers; (d) fixing the indigo dye by passing the fabric through a bath containing a mixture of resins to form a transparent film on the fabric fibers; (e) drying the fabric on a series of rollers and winding it onto a drum. An Independent claim is also included for an installation for carrying out the process, comprising a prewashing unit, a dyeing unit, a washing and predrying unit, a fixing unit and a drying unit.

Description

La présente invention concerne un procédé de teinture d'une matière textile avec de l'indigo en utilisant de l'indoxyle et une installation pour la mise en oeuvre du procédé.The present invention relates to a dyeing process of a textile material with indigo using indoxyl and an installation for the implementation of process.

Par ce procédé on fabrique un fil textile teinté à l'indigo permettant ensuite de préparer un tissu appelé tissu denim avec lequel on réalise des articles tels que le blue jean, par exemple.By this process a dyed textile yarn is made indigo then used to prepare a tissue called denim fabric with which we make items such as blue jeans, for example.

L'indigo est un des colorants les plus anciens connus et est utilisé depuis des siècles pour teinter les textiles tels que le coton.Indigo is one of the oldest known dyes and has been used for centuries to dye textiles such as cotton.

Le brevet EP-B-0 692 042 décrit un procédé de teinture d'une matière textile contenant de la cellulose avec de l'indigo au cours duquel on utilise une solution aqueuse de leuco-indigo préparée par hydrogénation catalytique et on convertit ce dernier en la forme pigmentaire par oxydation à l'air après sa montée sur la matière textile.Patent EP-B-0 692 042 describes a method of dyeing a textile material containing cellulose with indigo in which we use a solution aqueous leuco-indigo prepared by hydrogenation catalytic and we convert it to the form pigmented by air oxidation after its rise on the textile material.

Le brevet US-A-4 283 198 décrit un procédé continu de teinture de fibres cellulosiques avec de l'indigo où on fait passer les fibres au travers d'un train de cuves de trempage contenant un bain de liqueur comprenant du leuco-indigo, de l'hydrosulfite de sodium et de l'hydroxyde de sodium.US-A-4,283,198 describes a continuous process for tincture of cellulose fibers with indigo where passes the fibers through a train of tanks soaking containing a liquor bath comprising leuco-indigo, sodium hydrosulfite and hydroxide sodium.

Le brevet US-A-3 457 022 décrit un procédé de teinture de fibres de coton avec de l'indigo où on applique l'indigo à une température entre 65°C et 80°C sur les fils et ensuite on applique de l'indigo à des températures inférieures à 40°C.US-A-3,457,022 describes a method of cotton fiber dye with indigo where applied indigo at a temperature between 65 ° C and 80 ° C on the wires and then we apply indigo at temperatures below 40 ° C.

Le blue-jean teinté à l'indigo présente le désavantage qu'il se décolore au lavage. Durant ces dernières années il a même existé une mode qui consistait à porter des blue-jeans décolorés et l'industrie a développé des procédés et des installations pour suivre cette mode, où on accentuait et favorisait la décoloration du tissu en facilitant la décoloration du fil de chaíne. La manière de mettre en oeuvre la teinture facilitait le délavage et le vieillissement. Mais toute mode est éphémère et ne dure qu'un temps.Indigo-dyed blue jeans have the disadvantage that it discolours on washing. During these last years there was even a fashion that consisted of wear discolored blue jeans and the industry has developed processes and facilities to follow this fashion, where we accentuated and favored the discoloration of the fabric in facilitating discoloration of the chain thread. The way of using the dye facilitated washing and aging. But all fashion is fleeting and does not last only a time.

La demande de brevet d'invention EP 98630005.1 décrit un procédé de teinture avec de l'indigo au cours duquel on réalise un tissu denim qui résiste à l'usure et à la décoloration. Par ce procédé l'indigo pénétrera plus profondément dans le fil. Dans les procédés antérieures à cette demande de brevet, le fil comportait une âme centrale blanche et seule la partie extérieure était teintée à l'indigo. Avec le procédé selon la demande de brevet d'invention EP 98 630 005.1 l'âme centrale blanche était beaucoup plus mince.The patent application EP 98630005.1 describes a dyeing process with indigo during which makes a denim fabric that resists wear and discoloration. By this process indigo will penetrate more deep in the thread. In the processes prior to this patent application, the wire included a central core white and only the outer part was tinted to indigo. With the process according to the patent application EP 98 630 005.1 the white central core was much thinner.

Le but de la présente invention est la réalisation d'un tissu denim qui résiste à l'usure et à la décoloration et le fil obtenu est teinté de part en part au point que l'âme centrale blanche est pratiquement inexistante et a même disparu.The object of the present invention is the realization denim fabric that resists wear and fade and the yarn obtained is dyed right through to the point that the white central soul is practically non-existent and has even disappeared.

Par le procédé et l'installation selon la présente invention on obtient la complète pénétration du fil par l'indigo en éliminant complètement ou presque l'âme intérieure blanche et donc le vieillissement du tissu provoqué par sa décoloration due au lavage. By the process and the installation according to the present invention the complete penetration of the wire is obtained by indigo by completely or almost eliminating the soul white interior and therefore the aging of the fabric caused by its discoloration due to washing.

Jusqu'à présent l'une des raisons pour laquelle l'indigo ne pénétrait pas le fil de part en part était sa grande molécule:

Figure 00030001
Until now one of the reasons why indigo did not penetrate the whole thread was its large molecule:
Figure 00030001

Mais il est connu que la synthèse de l'indigo est obtenue par oxydation de deux molécules d'indoxyle selon l'équation:

Figure 00030002
But it is known that the synthesis of indigo is obtained by oxidation of two indoxyl molecules according to the equation:
Figure 00030002

Il est admis que l'indoxyle réagit selon sa formule tautomère cétonique.It is accepted that indoxyl reacts according to its formula ketone tautomer.

Par le procédé selon la présente invention, on imprègne le fil à teinter par de l'indoxyle et on procède à l'oxydation in situ de l'indoxyle pour obtenir l'indigo.By the method according to the present invention, impregnates the dyeing yarn with indoxyl and we proceed to the in situ oxidation of indoxyl to obtain indigo.

Sans vouloir être lié par une théorie quelconque, il est admis que la molécule d'indoxyle, plus petite que la molécule d'indigo pénétrera plus profondément dans le fil et on obtiendra ainsi la disparition de l'âme blanche, grâce à l'oxydation sur place de l'indoxyle donnant de l'indigo qui se fixera sur le fil sur toute sa profondeur.Without wishing to be bound by any theory, he it is accepted that the indoxyl molecule, smaller than the indigo molecule will penetrate deeper into the wire and we will thus obtain the disappearance of the white soul, thanks to the on-site oxidation of indoxyl giving indigo which will attach to the wire over its entire depth.

Le procédé de teinture d'une matière textile selon l'invention est décrit dans la revendication 1. The dyeing process of a textile material according to the invention is described in claim 1.

L'installation pour la mise en oeuvre du procédé de teinture selon l'invention est décrite dans la revendication 8.The installation for implementing the process dye according to the invention is described in claim 8.

Par le procédé selon l'invention, on modifie les opérations habituellement effectuées pour teindre le fil en bleu indigo, en ajoutant des opérations supplémentaires, tant au niveau des bains qu'au stade de l'oxydation et du mercerisage préalable pour faciliter la capacité d'absorption et d'imprégnation du fil.By the method according to the invention, the operations usually performed to dye the yarn in indigo blue, adding additional operations, both in the baths and in the oxidation and prior mercerization to facilitate capacity absorption and impregnation of the wire.

Au cours du processus d'oxydation selon l'invention, on commence par des expositions très rapides à l'air au début du processus dans les premiers bains de teinture et ensuite après chaque bain on augmente progressivement la durée d'exposition de manière à favoriser la pénétration de l'indoxyle dans le fil et à réaliser son oxydation in situ.During the oxidation process according to the invention, we start with very rapid air exposures at beginning of the process in the first dye baths and then after each bath we gradually increase the exposure time so as to favor the penetration of indoxyl in the wire and to carry out its oxidation in situ.

Le fil est ensuite vaporisé à des conditions de température et de pression définies, avant d'être lavé puis mercerisé de nouveau.The wire is then vaporized under conditions of set temperature and pressure, before washing and mercerized again.

La deuxième phase du procédé consiste à constituer autour du fil maintenant teint, une isolation pour le rendre insensible au lavage, et il est alors prêt à être utilisé. Pour ce faire il faut d'abord rendre le fil neutre par des passages successifs dans des bains acides.The second phase of the process consists in constituting around the now dyed yarn, insulation for the make it immune to washing, and then it's ready to be used. To do this you must first make the wire neutral by successive passages in acid baths.

Le fil est ensuite complètement séché et l'indigo sera définitivement fixé avec les caractéristiques souhaitées. Comme on l'a dit ci-dessus le fil obtenu par les procédés connus dans la technique est constitué par une âme centrale blanche, c.-à-d. non teintée et par une partie externe imprégnée par la teinture d'indigo. Grâce au procédé selon l'invention, l'âme centrale sera teintée de part en part par l'indigo.The yarn is then completely dried and the indigo will be definitively fixed with the characteristics desired. As mentioned above the thread obtained by the methods known in the art consists of a white central core, i.e. undyed and by a part external impregnated with indigo dye. Thanks to process according to the invention, the central core will be tinted with right through indigo.

Pour que l'invention soit mieux comprise, référence est faite aux figures accompagnantes dans lesquelles:

  • la fig. 1 représente une vue schématique de l'installation de prélavage utilisée au cours du procédé selon l'invention.
  • la fig. 2 représente une vue schématique de l'installation de teinture à l'indoxyle utilisée au cours du procédé selon l'invention.
  • la fig. 3 représente une vue schématique de l'installation de lavage et de préessuyage utilisée au cours du procédé selon l'invention.
  • la fig. 4 représente une vue schématique de l'installation d'encollage utilisée au cours du procédé selon l'invention.
  • la fig. 5 représente une vue schématique de l'installation de séchage et de formation du fil de chaíne selon l'invention.
    • For the invention to be better understood, reference is made to the accompanying figures in which:
  • fig. 1 shows a schematic view of the prewash installation used during the process according to the invention.
  • fig. 2 shows a schematic view of the indoxyl stain installation used during the process according to the invention.
  • fig. 3 shows a schematic view of the washing and pre-wiping installation used during the process according to the invention.
  • fig. 4 shows a schematic view of the sizing installation used during the process according to the invention.
  • fig. 5 shows a schematic view of the installation for drying and forming the warp thread according to the invention.

    • En se référant successivement aux figs. 1 à 5 le procédé selon l'invention sera maintenant décrit. Selon ce procédé on met d'abord en oeuvre une étape de prélavage en faisant passer le fil F provenant d'un rouleau de départ sur lequel il est enroulé au travers d'une installation de prélavage 1 constituée par deux ou plusieurs cuves 2 contenant une solution de prélavage 10,15. Le fil est guidé par des rouleaux 3 et 4 dans la première cuve 2 contenant la solution de prélavage puis en sortant de cette solution il passe entre deux rouleaux presseurs 5 pour enlever l'excès de liquide puis, guidé par le rouleau 6, replonge dans la solution de prélavage. A la sortie de ce bain, le fil passe entre deux rouleaux presseurs 7. Ensuite, guidé par les rouleaux de guidage 8 et 9, le fil plonge dans la solution de prélavage 15 se trouvant dans la deuxième cuve 2. Le fil se déplacera dans la deuxième cuve selon un parcours identique à celui de la première cuve en passant successivement entre les deux rouleaux presseurs 12, en-dessous du rouleau de guidage 11 puis entre les rouleaux presseurs 13.Referring successively to Figs. 1 to 5 on process according to the invention will now be described. According to what process we first implement a prewash step passing the wire F coming from a starting roller on which it is wound through an installation of prewash 1 consisting of two or more tanks 2 containing a prewash solution 10.15. The wire is guided by rollers 3 and 4 in the first tank 2 containing the prewash solution and then leaving this solution it passes between two pressure rollers 5 to remove excess liquid then, guided by roller 6, plunges back in the prewash solution. At the end of this bath, the wire passes between two pressure rollers 7. Then guided by the guide rollers 8 and 9, the wire plunges into the prewash solution 15 in the second tank 2. The wire will move in the second tank according to a identical route to that of the first tank passing successively between the two pressure rollers 12, below of the guide roller 11 then between the rollers pressers 13.

    La solution de prélavage contient un produit imbibant tel que le FINBIL AS (produit par la société Bozzetto) (désignation commerciale) qui est un dérivé d'ester phosphorique d'alcool gras. Il est utilisé dans la solution aqueuse en une concentration de 5 à 8 gr/litre. Ce bain de prélavage est utilisé pour imprégner le fil afin de favoriser la pénétration ultérieure de l'indoxyle.The prewash solution contains a soaking product such as FINBIL AS (produced by the company Bozzetto) (trade designation) which is an ester derivative phosphoric fatty alcohol. It is used in the solution aqueous in a concentration of 5 to 8 gr / liter. This bath of prewash is used to impregnate the yarn in order to favor the subsequent penetration of indoxyl.

    Après cette étape de prélavage on passe à la teinture proprement dite du fil au moyen de l'installation de teinture 30 représentée dans la figure 2. After this prewash step we go to dyeing proper wire through the installation of dye 30 shown in Figure 2.

    L'installation de teinture 30 est constituée par une série de 8 cuves 35 contenant une solution d'indoxyle. Le fil F provenant de l'installation de prélavage est guidé par le rouleau de guidage 31 dans la solution de teinture se trouvant dans la première cuve 35, tourne autour du rouleau 32 et sort du bain pour passer entre les premiers rouleaux presseurs 34 de la première cuve 35, passe autour rouleau 33 et retourne dans le solution de teinture de la première cuve, passe autour du deuxième rouleau 32 de la première cuve pour ensuite sortir du bain, passe entre le deuxième jeu de rouleaux presseurs 34 de la première cuve. Ensuite le fil passe autour du rouleau 36. Sur le trajet entre le deuxième jeu de rouleaux presseurs 34 et le rouleau 36, le fil imprégné est oxydé et il se forme de l'indigo qui teinte le fil. Après avoir tourné autour du rouleau 36, le fil passera dans la solution de teinture de la deuxième cuve où il subit le même parcours que dans la première cuve aux moyens des rouleaux 31, 32 et 34 de cette deuxième cuve. A la sortie de la deuxième cuve le fil tournera non plus autour d'un rouleau 36, comme à la sortie de la première cuve, mais autour de deux rouleaux 36 et un rouleau 37 de sorte que le parcours à l'air, à la sortie de la deuxième cuve sera deux fois plus long qu'à la sortie de la première cuve et l'oxydation sera donc deux fois plus importante. Après avoir tourné autour des rouleaux 36 et 37 le fil pénétrera dans la troisième cuve et ainsi de suite jusqu'à la huitième cuve et à la sortie de chaque cuve le fil tournera autour de rouleaux 36. Il convient de remarquer comme il est montré dans la fig. 2 que entre la troisième et la quatrième cuve, il y a trois rouleaux 36, entre la quatrième et la cinquième cuve il y a quatre rouleaux 36 et ainsi de suite jusqu'à la sortie de la huitième cuve où il y aura 8 rouleaux 36. Il en résulte que le temps d'exposition à l'air est augmenté progressivement en passant de la première cuve à la huitième, de telle sorte que si on donne la valeur x à l'oxydation entre la première cuve et la deuxième, on aura successivement:

  • Entre les 1° et 2° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = x
  • Entre les 2° et 3° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 2x
  • Entre les 3° et 4° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 3x
  • Entre les 4° et 5° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 4x
  • Entre les 5° et 6° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 5x
  • Entre les 6° et 7° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 6x
  • Entre les 7° et 8° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 7x
  • Après la 8° cuve valeur d'oxydation = 8x
    • The dyeing installation 30 consists of a series of 8 tanks 35 containing an indoxyl solution. The thread F from the prewash installation is guided by the guide roller 31 in the dye solution located in the first tank 35, turns around the roller 32 and leaves the bath to pass between the first pressure rollers 34 of the first tank 35, passes around roller 33 and returns to the dye solution of the first tank, passes around the second roller 32 of the first tank and then leaves the bath, passes between the second set of pressure rollers 34 of the first tank. Then the wire passes around the roller 36. On the path between the second set of pressure rollers 34 and the roller 36, the impregnated wire is oxidized and indigo is formed which dyes the wire. After turning around the roller 36, the thread will pass through the dyeing solution of the second tank where it undergoes the same route as in the first tank by means of the rollers 31, 32 and 34 of this second tank. At the outlet of the second tank the wire will no longer rotate around a roller 36, as at the outlet of the first tank, but around two rollers 36 and a roller 37 so that the path in the air, at the leaving the second tank will be twice as long as leaving the first tank and therefore the oxidation will be twice as great. After having turned around rollers 36 and 37 the wire will enter the third tank and so on until the eighth tank and at the exit of each tank the wire will turn around rollers 36. It should be noted as it is shown in fig. 2 that between the third and the fourth tank, there are three rollers 36, between the fourth and the fifth tank there are four rollers 36 and so on until the exit of the eighth tank where there will be 8 rollers 36 As a result, the time of exposure to air is gradually increased from the first tank to the eighth, so that if we give the value x to oxidation between the first tank and the second, we will successively:
  • Between the 1st and 2nd tanks the oxidation value = x
  • Between the 2nd and 3rd tanks the oxidation value = 2x
  • Between the 3rd and 4th tanks the oxidation value = 3x
  • Between 4 ° and 5 ° tanks the oxidation value = 4x
  • Between 5 ° and 6 ° tanks the oxidation value = 5x
  • Between the 6 ° and 7 ° tanks the oxidation value = 6x
  • Between the 7 ° and 8 ° tanks the oxidation value = 7x
  • After the 8 ° tank oxidation value = 8x

    • Les bains de teinture contiennent une solution aqueuse d'indoxyle contenant 6 à 8% en poids d'indoxyle pur.Dye baths contain a solution aqueous indoxyl containing 6 to 8% by weight of indoxyl pure.

    Les fils passent au travers des bains à une vitesse de 20 à 60 m/minute selon le type et la qualité du fil.The wires pass through the baths at a speed from 20 to 60 m / minute depending on the type and quality of the wire.

    Comme l'indoxyle réagit aisément avec l'oxygène de l'air, il faut assurer la stabilité des bains d'indoxyle dans les cuves 35 avant que la solution ne soit appliquée sur le fil. Ceci est obtenu en introduisant dans le bain un mélange réducteur d'hydrosulfite de sodium (Na2S2O4) et de l'hydroxyde de sodium (NaOH). A l'interface entre le bain et l'air atmosphérique le bain réducteur réagit avec l'oxygène selon l'équation. Na2S2O4 + 2NaOH + ½O2 → H2O + 2 Na2 SO3 Since indoxyl reacts easily with oxygen in the air, it is necessary to ensure the stability of the indoxyl baths in the tanks before the solution is applied to the wire. This is obtained by introducing into the bath a reducing mixture of sodium hydrosulfite (Na 2 S 2 O 4 ) and sodium hydroxide (NaOH). At the interface between the bath and atmospheric air, the reducing bath reacts with oxygen according to the equation. Na 2 S 2 O 4 + 2 NaOH + ½O 2 → H 2 O + 2 Na 2 SO 3

    En cas de nécessité, si le temps d'oxydation à l'air libre est trop long, on peut appliquer une circulation d'air forcé au moyen de systèmes de ventilation.If necessary, if the air oxidation time free is too long, we can apply a circulation forced air through ventilation systems.

    L'exemple représenté dans la figure 2 comporte 8 cuves mais il va de soi que l'opération peut être répétée 2, 3 ou davantage de fois en utilisant deux, trois ou davantage de jeux de 8 cuves pour ainsi obtenir une pénétration de plus en plus importante de l'indoxyle dans le fil.The example shown in Figure 2 includes 8 tanks but it goes without saying that the operation can be repeated 2, 3 or more times using two, three or more sets of 8 tanks to obtain a increasing penetration of indoxyl in thread.

    Grâce à ce procédé de teinture on obtient une coloration indigo intense et foncée du fil.Thanks to this dyeing process, intense and dark indigo coloring of the thread.

    Lorsque le fil a été teint, on procède au lavage et au préessuyage de celui-ci au moyen de l'installation 40 décrite dans la fig. 3. On fait passer le fil successivement dans les cuves 41 à 45 en le guidant au moyen des rouleaux 46, 47 et 48. La cuve 41 contient de l'eau et dans les cuves 42, 43 et 44, on introduit de l'acide acétique (CH3-COOH) à 50% de telle façon que la cuve 42 contienne une proportion de 20 cc/l, la cuve 43 contienne 10 cc/l et la cuve 44 contienne 5 cc/l. La cuve 45 contient de nouveau de l'eau, le pH final étant entre 6 et 7 de préférence 6,7.When the thread has been dyed, the washing and the pre-wiping thereof are carried out by means of the installation 40 described in FIG. 3. The wire is passed successively through the tanks 41 to 45 by guiding it by means of the rollers 46, 47 and 48. The tank 41 contains water and in the tanks 42, 43 and 44, water is introduced. acetic acid (CH 3 -COOH) at 50% so that the tank 42 contains a proportion of 20 cc / l, the tank 43 contains 10 cc / l and the tank 44 contains 5 cc / l. The tank 45 again contains water, the final pH being between 6 and 7, preferably 6.7.

    A la sortie de la cuve 45, on procède au préessuyage du fil en le faisant passer autour des rouleaux 50 comme on peut le voir dans la figure 3.At the outlet of the tank 45, the pre-wiping is carried out wire passing it around the rollers 50 as we can see it in figure 3.

    Après le lavage et le préssuyage du fil on procède à l'encollage de la teinture d'indigo sur le fil pour augmenter la résistance au lavage et au frottement des tissus qui seront ultérieurement préparés, en faisant passer le fil au travers de l'installation d'encollage 60 décrite dans la figure 4. Le fil passe dans une cuve 62 contenant un mélange de résines 63 et est guidé au travers de la cuve au moyen des rouleaux de guidage 64 et des rouleaux presseurs 61.After washing and pre-wiping the wire, we proceed to sizing the indigo dye on the wire to increase resistance to washing and rubbing fabrics which will be subsequently prepared, making pass the wire through the sizing installation 60 described in Figure 4. The wire passes through a tank 62 containing a mixture of 63 resins and is guided through of the tank by means of guide rollers 64 and pressure rollers 61.

    La composition du mélange de résines est comme suit:

  • 10 à 50 g/l de sels quaternaires de polyalkylamine
  • 10 à 50 g/l de résine fluorocarbonique
  • 10 à 200 g/l de résine acrylique
  • 1 à 20 g/l de polysiloxane autocatalysé
  • 10 à 200 g/l de résine polyurétanique
    • The composition of the resin mixture is as follows:
  • 10 to 50 g / l of quaternary polyalkylamine salts
  • 10 to 50 g / l of fluorocarbon resin
  • 10 to 200 g / l of acrylic resin
  • 1 to 20 g / l of autocatalysed polysiloxane
  • 10 to 200 g / l of polyurethane resin

    • Au cours de cet encollage il se forme un film transparent sur les fibres du fil qui fixe l'indigo sur le fil et augmente ainsi sa résistance au lavage.During this gluing a film is formed transparent on the fibers of the wire which fixes the indigo on the thread and thus increases its resistance to washing.

    Après cette étape d'encollage on procède au séchage du fil au moyen de l'installation 70 représentée dans la figure 5 en faisant passer, les fils autour des rouleaux 71. Ce séchage se fait à une température entre 150-180°C.After this gluing step, we proceed to drying of the wire by means of the installation 70 represented in the figure 5 passing the wires around the rollers 71. This drying takes place at a temperature between 150-180 ° C.

    Par la suite le fil de chaíne est enroulé autour du rouleau 72.Subsequently the chain wire is wrapped around the roller 72.

    Le procédé selon l'invention peut être mis en oeuvre avec divers types de fils, par exemple du coton, du coton et de nylon, de coton et de polyester etc... . The method according to the invention can be implemented with various types of yarn, for example cotton, cotton and nylon, cotton and polyester etc ....

    Le procédé et l'installation pour la mise en oeuvre du procédé sont des modes de réalisation préférés et il doit être compris que des modifications peuvent être faites et il est entendu que ces modifications sont également couvertes dans les limites des revendications suivantes.The process and the installation for the implementation of the method are preferred embodiments and it must be understood that modifications can be made and it is understood that these modifications are also covered within the limits of the following claims.

    Claims (17)

    Procédé de teinture d'une matière textile avec de l'indigo caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes de: a. prélaver un fil F en le faisant passer au travers d'une installation de prélavage (1) constituée par deux ou plusieurs cuves (2) contenant une solution de prélavage (10,15); b. teinter ensuite le fil en le faisant passer au travers d'une installation de teinture (30) constituée par une série de huit cuves (35) contenant chacune une solution d'indoxyle, et lors du passage d'une cuve (35) à l'autre, le fil subit une oxydation par exposition à l'air transformant l'indoxyle en indigo lequel teinte alors le fil par imprégnation, l'oxydation par exposition à l'air étant réalisée de telle façon que, en passant successivement de la première cuve (35) à la huitième, si on donne la valeur x à l'oxydation entre la première cuve (35) et la deuxième, on aura successivement: Entre les 1° et 2° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = x Entre les 2° et 3° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 2x Entre les 3° et 4° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 3x Entre les 4° et 5° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 4x Entre les 5° et 6° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 5x Entre les 6° et 7° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 6x Entre les 7° et 8° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 7x Après la 8° cuve valeur d'oxydation = 8x; c. laver et préessuyer le fil en le faisant passer au travers d'une installation de lavage et de préessuyage (40) comprenant une série de cuves (41, 42, 43, 44 et 45), la première cuve (41) contenant de l'eau, les cuves (42, 43 et 44) contenant de l'acide acétique et la cuve (45) contenant de l'eau de telle sorte que le pH dans la dernière cuve, sera entre 6 et 7, et à la sortie de la cuve (45), on préessuie le fil en le faisant passer entre les rouleaux (50); d. encoller la teinture d'indigo sur le fil en le faisant passer au travers d'une installation d'encollage (60) comprenant une cuve (62) contenant un mélange de résines pour former un film transparent sur les fibres du fil; e. sécher le fil en le faisant passer au travers d'une installation de séchage (70) constituée par des rouleaux (71); f. recueillir le fil de chaíne en l'enroulant sur le tambour (72). Process for dyeing a textile material with indigo, characterized in that it comprises the steps of: at. prewash a thread F by passing it through a prewash installation (1) consisting of two or more tanks (2) containing a prewash solution (10,15); b. then dye the yarn by passing it through a dyeing installation (30) constituted by a series of eight tanks (35) each containing an indoxyl solution, and when passing from a tank (35) to the other, the wire undergoes oxidation by exposure to air transforming the indoxyl into indigo which then dyes the wire by impregnation, the oxidation by exposure to air being carried out in such a way that, passing successively from the first tank (35) in the eighth, if we give the value x to the oxidation between the first tank (35) and the second, we will successively have: Between the 1st and 2nd tanks the oxidation value = x Between the 2nd and 3rd tanks the oxidation value = 2x Between the 3rd and 4th tanks the oxidation value = 3x Between 4 ° and 5 ° tanks the oxidation value = 4x Between 5 ° and 6 ° tanks the oxidation value = 5x Between 6 ° and 7 ° tanks the oxidation value = 6x Between the 7 ° and 8 ° tanks the oxidation value = 7x After the 8 ° tank oxidation value = 8x; vs. washing and pre-wiping the wire by passing it through a washing and pre-wiping installation (40) comprising a series of tanks (41, 42, 43, 44 and 45), the first tank (41) containing water, the tanks (42, 43 and 44) containing acetic acid and the tank (45) containing water so that the pH in the last tank will be between 6 and 7, and at the outlet of the tank (45), the wire is pre-wiped by passing it between the rollers (50); d. gluing the indigo dye onto the wire by passing it through a sizing installation (60) comprising a tank (62) containing a mixture of resins to form a transparent film on the fibers of the wire; e. drying the wire by passing it through a drying installation (70) constituted by rollers (71); f. collect the chain wire by winding it on the drum (72). Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce qu'on utilise au cours de l'étape a) une solution de prélavage contenant un dérivé d'ester phosphorique d'alcool gras, tel que le FINBIL AS.Method according to claim 1, characterized in what we use during step a) a solution of prewash containing an alcohol phosphoric ester derivative bold, such as FINBIL AS. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que le bain de teinture dans les cuves (35) comprend une solution aqueuse de 6 à 8% en poids d'indoxyle pur.Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the dye bath in the tanks (35) includes a aqueous solution of 6 to 8% by weight of pure indoxyl. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que dans l'étape c) la solution d'acide acétique dans la cuve (42) est obtenue en ajoutant de l'acide acétique 50% dans la cuve (42) en une quantité de 20 cc/l, la solution d'acide acétique dans la cuve (43) est obtenue en ajoutant de l'acide acétique 50% dans la cuve (43) en une quantité de 10 cc/l et la solution d'acide acétique dans la cuve (44) est obtenue en ajoutant de l'acide acétique 50% dans la cuve (44) en une quantité de 5 cc/l.Method according to claim 1, characterized in what in step c) the acetic acid solution in the tank (42) is obtained by adding 50% acetic acid in the tank (42) in an amount of 20 cc / l, the solution acetic acid in the tank (43) is obtained by adding 50% acetic acid in the tank (43) in an amount of 10 cc / l and the acetic acid solution in the tank (44) is obtained by adding 50% acetic acid to the tank (44) in an amount of 5 cc / l. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que le mélange de résines au cours de l'étape d) comprend un mélange de 10 à 50 g/l de sels quaternaires de polyalkylamine 10 à 50 g/l de résine fluorocarbonique 10 à 200 g/l de résine acrylique 1 à 20 g/l de polysiloxane autocatalysé 10 à 200 g/l de résine polyurétanique Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the mixture of resins during step d) comprises a mixture of 10 to 50 g / l of quaternary polyalkylamine salts 10 to 50 g / l of fluorocarbon resin 10 to 200 g / l of acrylic resin 1 to 20 g / l of autocatalysed polysiloxane 10 to 200 g / l of polyurethane resin Procédé selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que l'étape b) peut être répétée plusieurs fois en utilisant 16, 24 cuves de teinture (35) au lieu de huit. Method according to claim 1 characterized in that step b) can be repeated several times by using 16, 24 dye vats (35) instead of eight. Procédé selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que les fils passent au travers des bains de teinture à une vitesse de 20 à 60 m/minute.Method according to claim 1 characterized in as the threads pass through the dye baths to a speed from 20 to 60 m / minute. Installation pour la mise en oeuvre du procédé de teinture selon les revendications 1-5 caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend: a) une installation de prélavage (1); b) une installation de teinture (30); c) une installation de lavage et de préessuyage (40); d) une installation d'encollage (60); e) une installation de séchage (70). Installation for implementing the dyeing process according to claims 1-5, characterized in that it comprises: a) a prewash installation (1); b) a dyeing installation (30); c) a washing and pre-wiping installation (40); d) a gluing installation (60); e) a drying installation (70). Installation selon la revendication 8 caractérisé en ce que l'installation de prélavage comprend: deux ou plusieurs cuves (2) contenant une solution de prélavage (10,15), un rouleau de guidage (3) pour amener le fil dans la solution de prélavage (10), un rouleau de guidage (4) pour diriger le fil entre deux rouleaux presseurs (5) lesquels guident le fil vers un rouleau de guidage (6), deux rouleaux presseurs (7) pour essuyer l'excès de liquide, un rouleau de guidage (8) dirigeant le fil dans le liquide de lavage (15) dans la deuxième cuve (2), un rouleau de guidage (9) dirigeant le fil vers deux rouleaux presseurs (12), un rouleau de guidage (11) amenant le fil de nouveau dans la solution de prélavage (15) et deux rouleaux presseurs (13) essuyant le fil à la sortie de la deuxième cuve (2). Installation according to claim 8 characterized in that the prewash installation comprises: two or more tanks (2) containing a prewash solution (10,15), a guide roller (3) for bringing the yarn into the prewash solution (10), a guide roller (4) for directing the yarn between two pressure rollers (5) which guide the wire to a guide roller (6), two pressure rollers (7) for wiping off excess liquid, a guide roller (8) directing the wire into the washing liquid (15 ) in the second tank (2), a guide roller (9) directing the wire towards two pressure rollers (12), a guide roller (11) bringing the wire back into the prewash solution (15) and two rollers pressers (13) wiping the wire at the outlet of the second tank (2). Installation selon la revendication 8, caractérisée en ce que l'installation de teinture (30) comprend une série de 8 cuves (35) contenant un bain d'indoxyle, une série de rouleaux (31,32,33,34,36 et 37) associés à chaque cuve, les rouleaux (36) étant disposés entre chaque cuve (35) de telle façon qu'il y a un rouleau (36) entre la première et la deuxième cuves (35), deux rouleaux (36) entre la deuxième et la troisième cuves, trois rouleaux (36) entre la troisième et la quatrième cuves (35) et ainsi de suite jusqu'à la huitième cuve (35) et après celle-ci il y a également huit rouleaux (36), cette disposition des rouleaux (36) permettant ainsi d'augmenter progressivement la durée d'exposition du fil à l'air libre pour ainsi oxyder ce fil de telle façon que si on donne la valeur x à l'oxydation entre la première cuve (35) et la deuxième, on aura successivement: Entre les 1° et 2° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = x Entre les 2° et 3° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 2x Entre les 3° et 4° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 3x Entre les 4° et 5° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 4x Entre les 5° et 6° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 5x Entre les 6° et 7° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 6x Entre les 7° et 8° cuves la valeur d'oxydation = 7x Après la 8° cuve valeur d'oxydation = 8x. Installation according to claim 8, characterized in that the dyeing installation (30) comprises a series of 8 tanks (35) containing an indoxylate bath, a series of rollers (31,32,33,34,36 and 37 ) associated with each tank, the rollers (36) being arranged between each tank (35) such that there is a roller (36) between the first and second tanks (35), two rollers (36) between the second and third tanks, three rollers (36) between the third and fourth tanks (35) and so on until the eighth tank (35) and after this there are also eight rollers (36), this arrangement of the rollers (36) thus gradually increasing the duration of exposure of the wire to the open air, thereby oxidizing this wire in such a way that if the oxidation value is given between the first tank (35) and the second, we will successively have: Between the 1st and 2nd tanks the oxidation value = x Between the 2nd and 3rd tanks the oxidation value = 2x Between the 3rd and 4th tanks the oxidation value = 3x Between 4 ° and 5 ° tanks the oxidation value = 4x Between 5 ° and 6 ° tanks the oxidation value = 5x Between 6 ° and 7 ° tanks the oxidation value = 6x Between the 7 ° and 8 ° tanks the oxidation value = 7x After the 8 ° tank oxidation value = 8x. Installation selon la revendication 8, caractérisée en ce que l'installation de lavage et de préessuyage (40) comprend une série de cuves (41,42,43,44 et 45) et des rouleaux (46,47 et 48) associés à chaque cuve, la première cuve (41) contenant de l'eau, les cuves (42,43 et 44) contenant de l'acide acétique et la cuve (45) contenant de l'eau de telle sorte que le pH dans la dernière cuve sera entre 6 et 7, et à la sortie de la cuve (45) se trouve une série de rouleaux (50) pour sécher le fil.Installation according to claim 8, characterized in that the washing and pre-wiping (40) includes a series of tanks (41,42,43,44 and 45) and rollers (46,47 and 48) associated with each tank, the first tank (41) containing water, the tanks (42,43 and 44) containing acetic acid and the tank (45) containing water so that the pH in the last tank will be between 6 and 7, and at the outlet of the tank (45) is a series of rollers (50) for drying the wire. Installation selon la revendication 8, caractérisée en ce que l'installation d'encollage (60) comprend une cuve (62) contentant un mélange de résines.Installation according to claim 8, characterized in that the gluing installation (60) comprises a tank (62) containing a mixture of resins. Installation selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce qu'on utilise au cours de l'étape a) une solution de prélavage contenant un dérivé d'ester phosphorique d'alcool gras, tel que le FINBIL AS.Installation according to claim 8, characterized in that one uses during step a) a prewash solution containing an ester derivative phosphoric fatty alcohol, such as FINBIL AS. Installation selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce que le bain de teinture dans les cuves (35) comprend une solution aqueuse d'indoxyle contenant 6 à 8% en poids d'indoxyle pur.Installation according to claim 8, characterized in that the dye bath in the tanks (35) comprises an aqueous indoxyl solution containing 6 to 8% by weight of pure indoxyl. Installation selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce que dans l'étape c) la solution d'acide acétique dans la cuve (42) est obtenue en ajoutant de l'acide acétique 50% dans la cuve (42) en une quantité de 20 cc/l, la solution d'acide acétique dans la cuve (43) est obtenue en ajoutant de l'acide acétique 50% dans la cuve (43) en une quantité de 10 cc/l et la solution d'acide acétique dans la cuve (44) est obtenue en ajoutant de l'acide acétique 50% dans la cuve (44) en une quantité de 5 cc/l.Installation according to claim 8, characterized in that in step c) the acid solution acetic in the tank (42) is obtained by adding 50% acetic acid in the tank (42) in an amount of 20 cc / l, the acetic acid solution in the tank (43) is obtained by adding 50% acetic acid to the tank (43) in an amount of 10 cc / l and the acid solution acetic in the tank (44) is obtained by adding 50% acetic acid in the tank (44) in an amount of 5 cc / l. Installation selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce que le mélange de résines au cours de l'étape d) comprend un mélange de 10 à 50 g/l de sels quaternaires de polyalkylamine 10 à 50 g/l de résine fluorocarbonique 10 à 200 g/l de résine acrylique 1 à 20 g/l de polysiloxane autocatalysé 10 à 200 g/l de résine polyurétanique Installation according to claim 8, characterized in that the mixture of resins during step d) comprises a mixture of 10 to 50 g / l of quaternary polyalkylamine salts 10 to 50 g / l of fluorocarbon resin 10 to 200 g / l of acrylic resin 1 to 20 g / l of autocatalysed polysiloxane 10 to 200 g / l of polyurethane resin Installation selon la revendication 8 caractérisé en ce que l'étape b) peut être répété plusieurs fois en utilisant 16, 24 cuves de teinture (35) au lieu de huit.Installation according to claim 8 characterized in that step b) can be repeated several times in using 16, 24 dye vats (35) instead of eight.
    EP98630046A 1998-08-18 1998-08-18 Process for dyeing of textile materials with indigo using the indoxyle and installation for carrying out the method Revoked EP0980930B1 (en)

    Priority Applications (8)

    Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
    ES98630046T ES2235306T3 (en) 1998-08-18 1998-08-18 TINT PROCEDURE OF A TEXTILE MATTER WITH INDIGO USING INDOXYL AND INSTALLATION FOR THE PRACTICE OF THE PROCEDURE.
    SI9830742T SI0980930T1 (en) 1998-08-18 1998-08-18 Process for dyeing of textile materials with indigo using the indoxyle and installation for carrying out the method
    DE69828781T DE69828781T2 (en) 1998-08-18 1998-08-18 Dyeing process for textile materials with indigo using the indoxyl and apparatus for carrying out the dyeing process
    EP98630046A EP0980930B1 (en) 1998-08-18 1998-08-18 Process for dyeing of textile materials with indigo using the indoxyle and installation for carrying out the method
    AT98630046T ATE287984T1 (en) 1998-08-18 1998-08-18 DYEING PROCESS FOR TEXTILE MATERIALS WITH INDIGO USING THE INDOXYL AND DEVICE FOR CARRYING OUT THE DYEING PROCESS
    DK98630046T DK0980930T3 (en) 1998-08-18 1998-08-18 Process for dyeing textile fabrics with indigo using indoxyl and device for carrying out the process
    PT98630046T PT980930E (en) 1998-08-18 1998-08-18 PROCESS OF DYEING OF A TEXTILE MATERIAL WITH ANIL USING INDOXILO AND INSTALLATION FOR PROCESSING
    US09/349,692 US6090166A (en) 1998-08-18 1999-07-08 Process for dyeing a textile material with indigo using indoxyl, and system for exploiting the process

    Applications Claiming Priority (1)

    Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
    EP98630046A EP0980930B1 (en) 1998-08-18 1998-08-18 Process for dyeing of textile materials with indigo using the indoxyle and installation for carrying out the method

    Publications (2)

    Publication Number Publication Date
    EP0980930A1 true EP0980930A1 (en) 2000-02-23
    EP0980930B1 EP0980930B1 (en) 2005-01-26

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    Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
    EP98630046A Revoked EP0980930B1 (en) 1998-08-18 1998-08-18 Process for dyeing of textile materials with indigo using the indoxyle and installation for carrying out the method

    Country Status (8)

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    US (1) US6090166A (en)
    EP (1) EP0980930B1 (en)
    AT (1) ATE287984T1 (en)
    DE (1) DE69828781T2 (en)
    DK (1) DK0980930T3 (en)
    ES (1) ES2235306T3 (en)
    PT (1) PT980930E (en)
    SI (1) SI0980930T1 (en)

    Families Citing this family (5)

    * Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
    Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
    ITUD20010111A1 (en) * 2001-06-19 2002-12-19 Jaeggli Meccanotessile Srl EQUIPMENT AND PROCESS FOR DYEING AND MARKETING OF THREADS OR YARNS
    WO2004058898A1 (en) * 2002-12-25 2004-07-15 Beijing Wisdom Yingli Pharmaceutical Technology Developing Co., Ltd. A process for dyeing directly a textile fabric in situ
    DE102008039500A1 (en) 2008-08-23 2010-02-25 Dystar Textilfarben Gmbh & Co. Deutschland Kg Process for dyeing textile materials
    CN104562673A (en) * 2015-01-22 2015-04-29 吴照宇 Production process of size-dye combination machine for standard dyeing and cork dyeing
    TR201907245A2 (en) * 2019-05-14 2019-06-21 Maritas Denim Sanayi Ve Ticaret A S REDUCING WATER CONSUMPTION BY PERFORMING THE PRE-TREATMENT AND PAINTING PROCEDURE SEPARATELY IN THE INDIGO WARP DYEING PROCESS IN A SINGLE STEP

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    Also Published As

    Publication number Publication date
    US6090166A (en) 2000-07-18
    DK0980930T3 (en) 2005-05-30
    ATE287984T1 (en) 2005-02-15
    PT980930E (en) 2005-06-30
    EP0980930B1 (en) 2005-01-26
    ES2235306T3 (en) 2005-07-01
    DE69828781D1 (en) 2005-03-03
    SI0980930T1 (en) 2005-10-31
    DE69828781T2 (en) 2005-12-22

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