EP0775481A1 - Stable and free of hydrocarbons cosmetic or dermatologic oleogels and O/W emulsions - Google Patents

Stable and free of hydrocarbons cosmetic or dermatologic oleogels and O/W emulsions Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0775481A1
EP0775481A1 EP96117142A EP96117142A EP0775481A1 EP 0775481 A1 EP0775481 A1 EP 0775481A1 EP 96117142 A EP96117142 A EP 96117142A EP 96117142 A EP96117142 A EP 96117142A EP 0775481 A1 EP0775481 A1 EP 0775481A1
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EP
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Prior art keywords
weight
preparations
ester
branched
carbon atoms
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EP96117142A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0775481B1 (en
Inventor
Uta Meiring
Anne-Sopie Dussert
Arta Aul
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Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to stable hydrocarbon-free cosmetic or dermatological formulations in the form of oleogels and W / O emulsions.
  • the present invention relates to such a preparation for the purpose of lip care.
  • Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood as meaning that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
  • environmental influences e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • loss of the body's own substances e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient.
  • skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.
  • Medical topical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • drugs for the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.
  • the skin of the lips in particular has only an extremely thin horny layer. Sweat glands are not on the lips at all, sebum glands can only be found sporadically. Therefore, the lip skin is practically free of fat and tends to dry out, especially in cold and dry weather. Small cracks can form in the skin and the sensitivity of the lips to chemical, physical and microbial effects (e.g. food, sunlight, herpes simplex viruses) increases.
  • lip care formulations which are usually available in the form of lip care sticks. These products usually contain a high proportion of waxes and fat components, which form a covering layer over the lips after application. Preparations in liquid or semi-solid form, such as lip care gels or creams, are less common, but not uncommon.
  • the dermis of the lips has well-circulated papillae that extend just below the lip surface. Therefore, the lips are reddish in color and, depending on the complexion of the person in question, more or less contrasted in color from the rest of the facial skin. A stylistic device of decorative cosmetics is then to match the lip color to the type of person using appropriate cosmetics.
  • Products of this type are, for example, decorative lipsticks in which a wide variety of color pigments can be incorporated. These pencils also contain wax and fat components to a high degree, which form a covering lipid layer over the lips after being asked.
  • the lipid layer serves here as a base for the incorporated pigment substances adhering to the lips; the pigments themselves cannot be applied to the lips without such a foundation for various reasons.
  • Gels are the usual and increasingly popular cosmetic and dermatological preparation forms. Gels are characterized by a semi-solid, often flowable consistency. Usually, gels are transparent or translucent, sometimes they are even clear. The gel structure is created by an inner three-dimensional molecular framework to which the molecules of an outer oil or water phase are loosely bound by electrostatic interaction. Basically, a distinction is made between: oleogels, which are practically water-free, hydrogels, which are practically fat-free, and oil / water gels, which are ultimately based on O / W or W / O emulsions, but which also have features of a gel structure .
  • paraffin oils or paraffin waxes which have the advantage that recipes, emulsions or oleogels containing paraffin are not particularly unstable with respect to temperature fluctuations or at least can be stabilized in a simple manner.
  • Paraffins consist of branched and unbranched saturated hydrocarbons of varying chain length.
  • Avoiding paraffin oils and paraffin waxes can be an advantage. For example, it is to be welcomed if predominantly renewable raw materials or substances based on such raw materials are used whose CO 2 balance is neutral (or at least almost neutral) in contrast to mineral lipid components.
  • lipsticks should be able to be applied smoothly and without great frictional resistance.
  • a lipstick should give a non-greasy, dull or sticky, but still adherent film of grease to the lips even with slight pressure. This fat film should then make the lips smooth and supple.
  • a lipstick must also meet the requirements that it must be unbreakable and temperature-resistant and must not oil out.
  • a process for producing a cosmetic stick based on a W / O emulsion is known from DBP 23 35 549. According to this teaching, a gel is produced from a polyhydroxy compound and a nonionic, surface-active compound, this is mixed with a cosmetic base and then a water content is emulsified into the mixture.
  • paraffin oils and waxes have been indispensable ingredients for lipsticks to date. Although these are raw materials available in good quality and pencils with useful properties can be formulated with their help, the application properties of such cosmetic pencils are limited. Paraffins are also valuable raw materials, the occurrence of which is limited on Earth. Modern production goes in the direction of renewable raw materials, for example vegetable waxes or oils in the field of cosmetics.
  • a further object of the present invention was therefore to create a basis for cosmetic sticks, in particular lipsticks, which can dispense with mineral oils and instead can be based on vegetable or optionally animal lipid components or chemically modified variants thereof.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously be present as oleogels, then essentially anhydrous, or as W / O emulsions. They are characterized by high temperature stability, excellent adhesive strength and very good application properties. It is also possible and advantageous to design the preparations according to the invention in the form of cosmetic sticks.
  • the mono-, di- and / or triglycerides are advantageously present in a content of 0.5-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the ester or esters selected from the group of substances with the following structure is or are advantageously present in a content of 15-25% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Preferred lipid components are selected from the group of the moon di- and triglycerides and the esters are selected from the group of substances with the following structure in which R1 and R3 independently of one another represent a branched or unbranched saturated hydrocarbon radical with 5 to 10 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or unbranched saturated hydrocarbon radical with 5 to 50 carbon atoms and n and m independently assume values from 5 to 15,
  • Preferred esters are the C19-39 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates.
  • the lipid phase consists of 10-90% by weight, preferably 50-70% by weight, of liquid lipids, 0.5-90% by weight, preferably 5-30% by weight .-%, consists of semi-solid lipids and 0.5 - 50 wt .-%, preferably 25 - 40 wt .-%, of solid lipids, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the water content can advantageously be 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 3-5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Optional W / O emulsifiers which are nevertheless advantageous according to the invention are: monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and /
  • W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglycerylmonoisostearat, polyglycerol-2 polyhydroxystearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose distearate, behenyl alcohol, Isobehenylalkohol, selachyl alcohol, Chimyl alcohol.
  • beeswax and / or esters from saturated branched or unbranched aliphatic carboxylic acids with 14-44 carbon atoms as further constituents and saturated branched or unbranched aliphatic alcohols with 14-44 carbon atoms.
  • the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl - or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore low C number alcohols, e.g.
  • ethanol isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides and their derivatives, for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of the polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of the so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of the types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, or also of the types ETD ( E. ASY- t o d isperse) 2001 2020 , 2050, individually or in any combination with each other.
  • the polyacrylates preferably a polyacrylate from the group of the so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of the types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, or also of the types ETD ( E. ASY- t
  • compositions are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications are used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously granted from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine , Cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximines, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfinimine compatible doses (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), (metal) chelators (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, Phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g.
  • ⁇ -linolenic acid linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • Folic acid and its derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • suitable derivatives salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptid
  • Oil-soluble antioxidants can be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • preparations according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation .
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to have their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to produce cosmetic preparations To provide that protect the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.
  • UVB filters which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • UVA filters which have hitherto usually been contained in cosmetic preparations.
  • These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, Zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, virucides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, anti-inflammatory substances, medicines, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, virucides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, anti-inflammatory substances, medicines, fats, oils, waxes or other
  • Examples 1-6 Polar lip gels with a high fat content
  • the fat components are melted at 90 ° - 95 ° C. Separately, the water phase is heated to 70 ° C and then added to the fat phase with stirring. The mass is cooled with stirring.
  • the fat components are melted at 90 ° - 95 ° C.
  • the mass cools to 70 ° C. with stirring and is then poured into the mold.
  • the fat phase is heated to 85 ° C until the solid components have melted.
  • the water phase is heated separately to 75 ° C. and counteracted with fat phase while stirring.
  • the emulsion cools to 35 ° C. with stirring and is then homogenized.
  • Tribehenin 3.5% C 19-39 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 20.0% Bis-diglyceryl caprylate / caprate / isostearate / stearate / hydrogenated adipate 3.5% Caprylic Capric Acid Triglyceride 8.0% 2-octyldodecanol 8.0% Dicaprylyl ether 6.0% 2-ethylhexyl palmitate 6.0% Castor oil 32.0% Avocadin 2.5% Bisabolol 0.5% zinc oxide 5.0% talc 5.0%
  • Tribehenin 3.0% C 19-39 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 18.5% Wool wax alcohols 1.0% Glyceryl lanolate 2.0% Shea butter 5.0% Caprylic Capric Acid Triglyceride 10.0% 2-octyldodecanol 10.0% Castor oil 23.5% Bisabolol 1.0% Titanium dioxide 3.0% zinc oxide 5.0% kaolin 13.0% talc 5.0%

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Abstract

Cosmetic composition (A), which is essentially free from saturated hydrocarbons, contains (a) a lipid phase of mono-, di- and/or tri-glycerides (G) containing 18-36C, optionally branched, fatty acid groups, and at least one ester (E) of a hydroxy carboxylic acid and an optionally branched saturated 15-49C alcohol; and (b) optionally water, other lipids, emulsifiers and other usual agents, additives and adjuvants. Also claimed is the use of a cosmetic composition (A') as above, where (E) has the formula R2OC(O)(CH2)nCH(R1)OC(O)(CH2)mCH(OH)R3 (I), as a lip care product. R1, R3 = 3-30C saturated hydrocarbon residue; R2 = 5-50C saturated hydrocarbon residue; and m, n = 5-25.

Description

Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft stabile kohlenwasserstofffreie kosmetische oder dermatologische Formulierungen in Form von Oleogelen und W/O-Emulsionen. Insbesondere betrifft die vorliegende Erfindung solche Zubereitung zum Zwecke der Lippenpflege.The present invention relates to stable hydrocarbon-free cosmetic or dermatological formulations in the form of oleogels and W / O emulsions. In particular, the present invention relates to such a preparation for the purpose of lip care.

Unter kosmetischer Hautpflege ist in erster Linie zu verstehen, daß die natürliche Funktion der Haut als Barriere gegen Umwelteinflüsse (z.B. Schmutz, Chemikalien, Mikroorganismen) und gegen den Verlust von körpereigenen Stoffen (z.B. Wasser, natürliche Fette, Elektrolyte) gestärkt oder wiederhergestellt wird.Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood as meaning that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Wird diese Funktion gestört, kann es zu verstärkter Resorption toxischer oder allergener Stoffe oder zum Befall von Mikroorganismen und als Folge zu toxischen oder allergischen Hautreaktionen kommen.If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.

Ziel der Hautpflege ist es ferner, den durch tägliche Waschen verursachten Fett-und Wasserverlust der Haut auszugleichen. Dies ist gerade dann wichtig, wenn das natürliche Regenerationsvermögen nicht ausreicht. Außerdem sollen Hautpflegeprodukte vor Umwelteinflüssen, insbesondere vor Sonne und Wind, schützen und die Hautalterung verzögern.The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.

Medizinische topische Zusammensetzungen enthalten in der Regel ein oder mehrere Medikamente in wirksamer Konzentration. Der Einfachheit halber wird zur sauberen Unterscheidung zwischen kosmetischer und medizinischer Anwendung und entsprechenden Produkten auf die gesetzlichen Bestimmungen der Bundesrepublik Deutschland verwiesen (z.B. Kosmetikverordnung, Lebensmittel- und Arzneimittelgesetz).Medical topical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

Die Haut der Lippen im besonderen besitzt nur eine äußerst dünne Hornschicht. Schweißdrüsen sind auf den Lippen gar nicht, Talgdrüsen nur vereinzelt zu finden. Daher ist die Lippenhaut praktisch frei von Fett und neigt, besonders bei kaltem und trockenem Wetter, zum Austrocknen. Dabei können sich kleine Risse in der Haut bilden, und die Empfindlichkeit der Lippen gegenüber chemischen, physikalischen und mikrobiellen Einwirkungen (z.B. Nahrungsmittel, Sonnenlicht, Herpes-Simplex-Viren) steigt.The skin of the lips in particular has only an extremely thin horny layer. Sweat glands are not on the lips at all, sebum glands can only be found sporadically. Therefore, the lip skin is practically free of fat and tends to dry out, especially in cold and dry weather. Small cracks can form in the skin and the sensitivity of the lips to chemical, physical and microbial effects (e.g. food, sunlight, herpes simplex viruses) increases.

Dies zu verhindern ist die Aufgabe von Lippenpflegeformulierungen, welche meistens in Form von Lippenpflegestiften erhältlich sind. Diese Produkte enthalten meist zu einem hohen Anteil Wachse und Fettkomponenten, die nach dem Auftragen eine abdeckende Schicht über den Lippen ausbilden. Weniger gebräuchlich, aber nicht unüblich sind Zubereitungen in flüssiger oder halbfester Form, beispielsweise Lippenpflegegelen oder - Crèmes.Preventing this is the task of lip care formulations, which are usually available in the form of lip care sticks. These products usually contain a high proportion of waxes and fat components, which form a covering layer over the lips after application. Preparations in liquid or semi-solid form, such as lip care gels or creams, are less common, but not uncommon.

Die Lederhaut der Lippen weist gut durchblutete Papillen auf, die bis dicht unter die Lippenoberfläche reichen. Daher sind die Lippen rötlich gefärbt und, je nach Teintfarbe der betreffenden Person, von der übrigen Gesichtshaut mehr oder weniger stark farblich abgesetzt. Ein Stilmittel der dekorativen Kosmetik ist dann auch, die Lippenfarbe durch entsprechende Kosmetika auf den Typ der Person abzustimmen.The dermis of the lips has well-circulated papillae that extend just below the lip surface. Therefore, the lips are reddish in color and, depending on the complexion of the person in question, more or less contrasted in color from the rest of the facial skin. A stylistic device of decorative cosmetics is then to match the lip color to the type of person using appropriate cosmetics.

Produkte dieser Art sind beispielsweise dekorative Lippenstifte, in welche verschiedenste Farbpigmente eingearbeitet werden können. Auch diese Stifte enthalten zu hohen Anteilen Wachse und Fettkomponenten, die nach dem Auffragen eine abdeckende Lipidschicht über den Lippen ausbilden.Products of this type are, for example, decorative lipsticks in which a wide variety of color pigments can be incorporated. These pencils also contain wax and fat components to a high degree, which form a covering lipid layer over the lips after being asked.

Die Aufgabe dieser Schicht ist jedoch nicht vorderhand, die Lippenhaut vor dem Austrocknen zu schützen. Die Lipidschicht dient hier als auf den Lippen haftende Grundlage für die eingearbeiteten Pigmentstoffe; die Pigmente selbst können aus mancherlei Gründen nicht ohne eine solche Grundlage auf die Lippen aufgetragen werden.However, the task of this layer is not for the time being to protect the lip skin from drying out. The lipid layer serves here as a base for the incorporated pigment substances adhering to the lips; the pigments themselves cannot be applied to the lips without such a foundation for various reasons.

Es war eine Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung, Zubereitungen für die Lippenpflege zu entwickeln, welche sich durch hohe Pflegewirkung und leichte Handhabung auszeichnen, und welche darüberhinaus kosmetisch elegante Formulierungen darstellen würden.It was an object of the present invention to develop preparations for lip care which are distinguished by a high care effect and easy handling, and which would also represent cosmetically elegant formulations.

Übliche, und sich gerade in neuerer Zeit immer weiter verbreitende kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungsformen sind Gele. Gele zeichnen sich durch halbfeste, oft fließfähige Konsistenz aus. Meistens sind Gele transparent oder tranzluzent, gelegentlich sind sie sogar klar. Die Gelstruktur wird durch ein inneres dreidimensionales molekulares Gerüst bewirkt, an welches durch elektrostatische Wechselwirkung die Molekeln einer äußeren Öl- oder Wasserphase locker gebunden sind. Im wesentlichen werden unterschieden: Oleogele, welche praktisch wasserfrei vorliegen, Hydrogele, welche praktisch fettfrei sind und Öl/Wasser-Gele, welche letztlich auf O/W- oder W/O-Emulsionen basieren, in welchen zusätzlich aber auch Merkmale einer Gelstruktur verwirklicht sind.Gels are the usual and increasingly popular cosmetic and dermatological preparation forms. Gels are characterized by a semi-solid, often flowable consistency. Mostly, gels are transparent or translucent, sometimes they are even clear. The gel structure is created by an inner three-dimensional molecular framework to which the molecules of an outer oil or water phase are loosely bound by electrostatic interaction. Basically, a distinction is made between: oleogels, which are practically water-free, hydrogels, which are practically fat-free, and oil / water gels, which are ultimately based on O / W or W / O emulsions, but which also have features of a gel structure .

Übliche Grundstoffe des Standes der Technik sind Paraffinöle oder Paraffinwachse, die den Vorteil haben, daß paraffinhaltige Rezepturen, Emulsionen oder Oleogele, nicht sonderlich instabil gegenüber Temperaturschwankungen sind oder zumindest auf einfache Weise stabilisiert werden können. Paraffine bestehen aus verzweigten und unverzweigten gesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffen schwankender Kettenlänge.Common basic materials of the prior art are paraffin oils or paraffin waxes, which have the advantage that recipes, emulsions or oleogels containing paraffin are not particularly unstable with respect to temperature fluctuations or at least can be stabilized in a simple manner. Paraffins consist of branched and unbranched saturated hydrocarbons of varying chain length.

Der Verzicht auf Paraffinöle und Paraffinwachse kann von Vorteil sein. Beispielsweise ist zu begrüßen, wenn vorwiegend nachwachsende Rohstoffe oder auf solchen Rohstoffen basierende Substanzen verwendet werden, deren CO2-Bilanz im Gegensatze zu mineralischen Lipidkomponenten neutral (oder wenigstens nahezu neutral) sind.Avoiding paraffin oils and paraffin waxes can be an advantage. For example, it is to be welcomed if predominantly renewable raw materials or substances based on such raw materials are used whose CO 2 balance is neutral (or at least almost neutral) in contrast to mineral lipid components.

Auch war wünschenswert, das Spektrum der gängigen Formulierungsarten durch paraffinfreie Formulierungen zu erweitern.It was also desirable to expand the range of common formulation types with paraffin-free formulations.

Technisch betrachtet sind fast alle Lippenstifte wasserfreie Fettmischungen aus festen oder halbfesten Wachsen und flüssigen Ölen, wobei die hochgereinigten Paraffinöle und -wachse die Lippenstiftgrundmasse darstellen.From a technical point of view, almost all lipsticks are water-free fat mixtures from solid or semi-solid waxes and liquid oils, with the highly purified paraffin oils and waxes being the lipstick base.

Nach dem idealen Anforderungsprofil sollen sich Lippenstifte glatt und ohne großen Reibungswiderstand auftragen lassen. Außerdem soll ein Lippenstift schon bei leichtem Andruck einen nicht schmierigen, stumpfen oder klebrigen, aber dennoch gut haftenden Fettfilm an die Lippen abgeben. Durch diesen Fettfilm sollen die Lippen dann glatt und geschmeidig gemacht werden.According to the ideal requirement profile, lipsticks should be able to be applied smoothly and without great frictional resistance. In addition, a lipstick should give a non-greasy, dull or sticky, but still adherent film of grease to the lips even with slight pressure. This fat film should then make the lips smooth and supple.

Darüber hinaus muß ein Lippenstift auch noch die Anforderungen erfüllen, daß er bruchfest und temperaturbeständig sein muß und nicht ausölen darf.In addition, a lipstick must also meet the requirements that it must be unbreakable and temperature-resistant and must not oil out.

Übliche Grundstoffe des Standes der Technik sind

  • (1) flüssige Öle (z.B. Paraffinöle, Ricinusöl, Isopropylmyristat)
  • (2) halbfeste Bestandteile (z.B. Vaseline, Lanolin)
  • (3) feste Bestandteile (z.B. Bienenwachs, Ceresin und Mikrokristalline Wachse bzw. Ozokerit)
  • (4) hochschmelzende Wachse (z.B. Carnaubawachs, Candelillawachs)
Common basic materials of the prior art are
  • (1) liquid oils (e.g. paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate)
  • (2) semi-solid components (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin)
  • (3) solid components (e.g. beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or ozokerite)
  • (4) high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax)

Lippenstifte des Standes der Technik mit einem Gehalt an Paraffinen und Bienenwachs sind in "Kosmetik, Entwicklung Herstellung und Anwendung kosmetischer Mittel", S. 105 , Herausgeber: W.Umbach, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart - New York, 1988, beschrieben.Prior art lipsticks containing paraffins and beeswax are described in "Cosmetics, Development, Production and Application of Cosmetics", p. 105, publisher: W. Umbach, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart - New York, 1988.

Der Stand der Technik hat aber eine Reihe von Nachteilen. So ist aus dem DBP 23 35 549 ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines kosmetischen Stiftes auf der Basis einer W/O-Emulsion bekannt. Nach dieser Lehre wird aus einer Polyhydroxyverbindung und einer nichtionogenen, oberflächenaktiven Verbindung ein Gel herstellt, dieses mit einer kosmetischen Grundlage vermischt und dann einen Gehalt an Wasser in die Mischung emulgiert.However, the prior art has a number of disadvantages. A process for producing a cosmetic stick based on a W / O emulsion is known from DBP 23 35 549. According to this teaching, a gel is produced from a polyhydroxy compound and a nonionic, surface-active compound, this is mixed with a cosmetic base and then a water content is emulsified into the mixture.

Nach diesem Verfahren sind jedoch keine Stifte herzustellen, die über die gestellten universellen Anforderungen an einen kosmetischen Stift verfügen.However, no pencils can be produced by this process that have the universal requirements placed on a cosmetic pencil.

Ein weiterer Nachteil ist, daß Paraffinöle und -wachse bis zum gegenwärtigen Zeitpunkte unabdingbare Bestandteile für Lippenstifte waren. Obwohl es sich dabei um in guter Qualität erhältliche Rohstoffe handelt, und Stifte mit brauchbaren Eigenschaften mit ihrer Hilfe formuliert werden können, sind die Anwendungseigenschaften solcher kosmetischer Stifte jedoch begrenzt. Außerdem sind Paraffine wertvolle Grundstoffe, deren Vorkommen auf der Erde begrenzt sind. Die moderne Produktion geht in die Richtung nachwachsender Rohstoffe, also beispielsweise pflanzlicher Wachse oder Öle auf dem Gebiete der Kosmetik.Another disadvantage is that paraffin oils and waxes have been indispensable ingredients for lipsticks to date. Although these are raw materials available in good quality and pencils with useful properties can be formulated with their help, the application properties of such cosmetic pencils are limited. Paraffins are also valuable raw materials, the occurrence of which is limited on Earth. Modern production goes in the direction of renewable raw materials, for example vegetable waxes or oils in the field of cosmetics.

Es war jedoch bisher unmöglich, einen kosmetischen Stift auf der Basis der bekannten pflanzlichen Wachse, Fette oder Öle oder chemisch modifizierter pflanzlicher Wachse, Fette oder Öle zu konzipieren. Eine weiter Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war also, eine Grundlage für kosmetische Stifte, insbesondere Lippenstifte zu schaffen, welche auf mineralische Öle verzichten kann und stattdessen auf pflanzlichen oder gegebenenfalls tierischen Lipidkomponenten bzw. chemisch modifizierten Varianten davon basieren kann.However, it has previously been impossible to design a cosmetic stick based on the known vegetable waxes, fats or oils or chemically modified vegetable waxes, fats or oils. A further object of the present invention was therefore to create a basis for cosmetic sticks, in particular lipsticks, which can dispense with mineral oils and instead can be based on vegetable or optionally animal lipid components or chemically modified variants thereof.

Insgesamt war also die Aufgabe des Standes der Technik, Formulierungen, zu entwickeln, welche den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik in dieser Hinsicht abhelfen.Overall, the task of the prior art was to develop formulations which remedy the disadvantages of the prior art in this regard.

Erstaunlicherweise, und darin liegt die Lösung all dieser Aufgaben begründet, helfen kosmetische Formulierungen, welche im wesentlichen frei von gesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffen sind, umfassend

  • (a) eine Lipidphase enthaltend mindestens einen Glycerinmono-, -di-, und/oder - tricarbonsäureester verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter einbasiger Fettsäuren mit 18 - 36 Kohlenstoffatomen (= Mono-, Di- und/oder Triglyceride) sowie mindestens einen Ester gewählt aus der Gruppe der Substanzen mit folgender Struktur
    Figure imgb0001
     wobei
    R1 und R3 unabhängig voneinander einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten gesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 3 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen darstellen und R2 einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten gesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 5 - 50 Kohlenstoffatomen darstellt und n und m unabhängig voneinander Werte von 5 bis 25 annehmen,
  • (d) ferner gegebenenfalls enthaltend Wasser, weitere Lipide, Emulgatoren sowie übliche weitere Wirk-, Hilfs- und/oder Zusatzstoffe,
den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik ab.Surprisingly, and this is the solution to all of these tasks, cosmetic formulations which are essentially free of saturated hydrocarbons help comprehensively
  • (a) a lipid phase containing at least one glycerol mono-, di- and / or - tricarboxylic acid ester of branched and / or unbranched monobasic fatty acids with 18-36 carbon atoms (= mono-, di- and / or triglycerides) and at least one ester selected the group of substances with the following structure
    Figure imgb0001
     in which
    R1 and R3 independently of one another represent a branched or unbranched saturated hydrocarbon radical having 3 to 30 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or unbranched saturated hydrocarbon radical having 5 to 50 carbon atoms and n and m independently of one another have values from 5 to 25,
  • (d) further optionally containing water, further lipids, emulsifiers and customary further active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives,
the disadvantages of the prior art.

Eine besondere Ausführungsform der vorliegenden Erfindung ist die Verwendung von kosmetischen Formulierungen, welche im wesentlichen frei von gesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffen sind, umfassend

  • (a) eine Lipidphase enthaltend mindestens einen Glycerinmono-, -di-, und/oder - tricarbonsäureester verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter einbasiger Fettsäuren mit 18 - 36 Kohlenstoffatomen (= Mono-, Di- und/oder Triglyceride) sowie mindestens einen Ester gewählt aus der Gruppe der Substanzen mit folgender Struktur
    Figure imgb0002
     wobei
    R1 und R3 unabhängig voneinander einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten gesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 3 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen darstellen und R2 einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten gesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 5 - 50 Kohlenstoffatomen darstellt und n und m unabhängig voneinander Werte von 5 bis 25 annehmen,
  • (d) ferner gegebenenfalls enthaltend weitere Lipide, Wasser, Emulgatoren sowie übliche weitere Wirk-, Hilfs- und/oder Zusatzstoffe,
als Lippenpflegeformulierung.A particular embodiment of the present invention comprises the use of cosmetic formulations which are essentially free of saturated hydrocarbons
  • (a) a lipid phase containing at least one glycerol mono-, di- and / or - tricarboxylic acid ester of branched and / or unbranched monobasic fatty acids with 18-36 carbon atoms (= mono-, di- and / or triglycerides) and at least one ester selected the group of substances with the following structure
    Figure imgb0002
     in which
    R1 and R3 independently of one another represent a branched or unbranched saturated hydrocarbon radical having 3 to 30 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or unbranched saturated hydrocarbon radical having 5 to 50 carbon atoms and n and m independently of one another have values from 5 to 25,
  • (d) further optionally containing further lipids, water, emulsifiers and customary further active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives,
as a lip care formulation.

Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können vorteilhaft als Oleogele, dann im wesentlichen wasserfrei, oder als W/O-Emulsionen vorliegen. Sie zeichnen sich durch hohe Temperaturstabilität, ausgezeichnete Haftfestigkeit und sehr guten Anwendungseigenschaften aus. Es ist auch möglich und vorteilhaft, die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen in Form kosmetischer Stifte auszugestalten.The preparations according to the invention can advantageously be present as oleogels, then essentially anhydrous, or as W / O emulsions. They are characterized by high temperature stability, excellent adhesive strength and very good application properties. It is also possible and advantageous to design the preparations according to the invention in the form of cosmetic sticks.

Das oder die Mono-, Di- und/oder Triglyceride liegt oder liegen erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft in einem Gehalt von 0,5 - 10 Gew.-% vor, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. Der oder die Ester gewählt aus der Gruppe der Substanzen mit folgender Struktur

Figure imgb0003
liegt oder liegen vorteilhaft in einem Gehalt von 15 - 25 Gew.-% vor, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.According to the invention, the mono-, di- and / or triglycerides are advantageously present in a content of 0.5-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. The ester or esters selected from the group of substances with the following structure
Figure imgb0003
 is or are advantageously present in a content of 15-25% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Bevorzugte Lipidkomponenten werden gewählt aus der Gruppe der Mond Di-und Triglyceride sowie der Ester gewählt aus der Gruppe der Substanzen mit folgender Struktur

Figure imgb0004
wobei
R1 und R3 unabhängig voneinander einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten gesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 5 - 10 Kohlenstoffatomen darstellen und R2 einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten gesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 5 - 50 Kohlenstoffatomen darstellt und n und m unabhängig voneinander Werte von 5 bis 15 annehmen,Preferred lipid components are selected from the group of the moon di- and triglycerides and the esters are selected from the group of substances with the following structure
Figure imgb0004
 in which
R1 and R3 independently of one another represent a branched or unbranched saturated hydrocarbon radical with 5 to 10 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or unbranched saturated hydrocarbon radical with 5 to 50 carbon atoms and n and m independently assume values from 5 to 15,

Bevorzugte Ester sind die C19-39-Alkyl-Hydroxystearoylstearate.Preferred esters are the C19-39 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates.

Die Merkmale der vorliegenden Erfindung sind vorteilhaft verwirklicht, wenn die Lipidphase zu 10 - 90 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 50 - 70 Gew.-%, aus flüssigen Lipiden, zu 0,5 - 90 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 5 - 30 Gew.-%, aus halbfesten Lipiden und zu 0,5 - 50 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 25 - 40 Gew.-%, aus festen Lipiden besteht, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The features of the present invention are advantageously achieved if the lipid phase consists of 10-90% by weight, preferably 50-70% by weight, of liquid lipids, 0.5-90% by weight, preferably 5-30% by weight .-%, consists of semi-solid lipids and 0.5 - 50 wt .-%, preferably 25 - 40 wt .-%, of solid lipids, each based on the total weight of the preparations.

Wenn gewünscht ist, die erfindungsgemäßen Formulierungen als W/O-Emulsionen auszugestalten, kann der Wassergehalt vorteilhaft 0,1 - 15 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 3 - 5 Gew.-% betragen, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.If it is desired to design the formulations according to the invention as W / O emulsions, the water content can advantageously be 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 3-5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations.

Als fakultative, dennoch erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte W/O-Emulgatoren können eingesetzt werden: Monoglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Monoglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Diglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Triglycerinether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen, Propylenglycolester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen sowie Sorbitanester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen.Optional W / O emulsifiers which are nevertheless advantageous according to the invention are: monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 - 18 carbon atoms, triglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, v branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, and sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms.

Insbesondere vorteilhafte W/O-Emulgatoren sind Glycerylmonostearat, Glycerylmonoisostearat, Glycerylmonomyristat, Glycerylmonooleat, Diglycerylmonostearat, Diglycerylmonoisostearat, Polyglycerin-2-polyhydroxystearat, Propylenglycolmonostearat, Propylenglycolmonoisostearat, Propylenglycolmonocaprylat, Propylenglycolmonolaurat, Sorbitanmonoisostearat, Sorbitanmonolaurat, Sorbitanmonocaprylat, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, Saccharosedistearat, Behenylalkohol, Isobehenylalkohol, Selachylalkohol, Chimylalkohol.Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglycerylmonoisostearat, polyglycerol-2 polyhydroxystearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose distearate, behenyl alcohol, Isobehenylalkohol, selachyl alcohol, Chimyl alcohol.

Insbesondere, wenn die vorliegende Erfindung in kosmetischen Stiften verwirklicht wird, kann es vorteilhaft sein, als weitere Bestandteile Bienenwachs und/oder Ester aus gesättigten verzweigten oder unverzweigten aliphatischen Carbonsäuren mit 14 - 44 Kohlenstoffatomen und gesättigten verzweigten oder unverzweigten aliphatischen Alkoholen mit 14 - 44 Kohlenstoffatomen zu verwenden.In particular, if the present invention is implemented in cosmetic sticks, it may be advantageous to use beeswax and / or esters from saturated branched or unbranched aliphatic carboxylic acids with 14-44 carbon atoms as further constituents and saturated branched or unbranched aliphatic alcohols with 14-44 carbon atoms.

Die wäßrige Phase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen enthält gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl-oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte, ferner Alkohole niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. Ethanol, Isopropanol, 1,2-Propandiol, Glycerin sowie insbesondere ein oder mehrere Verdickungsmittel, welches oder welche vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe Siliciumdioxid, Aluminiumsilikate, Polysaccharide bzw. deren Derivate, z.B. Hyaluronsäure, Xanthangummi, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, besonders vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Polyacrylate, bevorzugt ein Polyacrylat aus der Gruppe der sogenannten Carbopole, beispielsweise Carbopole der Typen 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, oder auch der Typen ETD (Easy-to-disperse) 2001, 2020, 2050, jeweils einzeln oder in beliebigen Kombinationen untereinander.Kombination.The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl - or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore low C number alcohols, e.g. ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides and their derivatives, for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of the polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of the so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of the types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, or also of the types ETD ( E. ASY- t o d isperse) 2001 2020 , 2050, individually or in any combination with each other.

Besonders vorteilhafte Zubereitungen werden ferner erhalten, wenn als Zusatz-oder Wirkstoffe Antioxidantien eingesetzt werden. Erfindungsgemäß enthalten die Zubereitungen vorteilhaft eines oder mehrere Antioxidantien. Als günstige, aber dennoch fakultativ zu verwendende Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications are used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional antioxidants.

Vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewährt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäuren (z.B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z.B. Urocaninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Carnosin, D-Carnosin, L-Camosin und deren Derivate (z.B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z.B. α-Carotin, β-Carotin, Lycopin) und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z.B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z.B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl - und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z.B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z.B. pmol bis µmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z.B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), α-Hydroxysäuren (z.B. Zitronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z.B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, Vitamin C und Derivate (z.B. Ascorbylpalmitat, Mg - Ascorbylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z.B. Vitamin E - acetat), Vitamin A und Derivate (Vitamin A - palmitat) sowie Konyferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, Ferulasäure und deren Derivate, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z.B. ZnO, ZnSO4) Selen und dessen Derivate (z.B. Selenmethionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z.B. Stilbenoxid, Trans-Stilbenoxid) und die erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.The antioxidants are advantageously granted from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine , Cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximines, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfinimine compatible doses (e.g. pmol to µmol / kg), (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, Phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), Folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and konyferyl benzoate benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, ferulic acid and derivatives thereof, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnSO 4) selenium and derivatives thereof (eg Selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and those according to the invention suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Besonders vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können öllösliche Antioxidantien eingesetzt werden.Oil-soluble antioxidants can be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Eine erstaunliche Eigenschaft der vorliegenden Erfindung ist, daß erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen sehr gute Vehikel für kosmetische oder dermatologische Wirkstoffe in die Haut sind, wobei bevorzugte Wirkstoffe Antioxidantien sind, welche die Haut vor oxidativer Beanspruchung schützen können. Bevorzugte Antioxidantien sind dabei Vitamin E und dessen Derivate sowie Vitamin A und dessen Derivate.An astonishing property of the present invention is that preparations according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

Die Menge der Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation .

Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Sofern Vitamin A, bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate, bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to have their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

Es ist dem Fachmanne natürlich bekannt, daß anspruchsvolle kosmetische Zubereitungen zumeist nicht ohne die üblichen Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe denkbar sind. Darunter zählen beispielsweise Konsistenzgeber, Füllstoffe, Parfum, Farbstoffe, Emulgatoren, zusätzliche Wirkstoffe wie Vitamine oder Proteine, Lichtschutzmittel, Stabilisatoren, Insektenrepellentien, Alkohol, Wasser, Salze, antimikrobiell, proteolytisch oder keratolytisch wirksame Substanzen usw.It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic preparations are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfumes, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc.

Mutatis mutandis gelten entsprechende Anforderungen an die Formulierung medizinischer Zubereitungen.Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Vorteilhaft enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen mindestens eine UVA-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens eine UVB-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens ein anorganisches Pigment.The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

Es ist aber auch vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindungen, solche kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen zu erstellen, deren hauptsächlicher Zweck nicht der Schutz vor Sonnenlicht ist, die aber dennoch einen Gehalt an UV-Schutzsubstanzen enthalten. So werden z.B. in Tagescremes gewöhnlich UV-A- bzw. UV-B-Filtersubstanzen eingearbeitet.However, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions to create such cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.

Auch stellen UV-Schutzsubstanzen, ebenso wie Antioxidantien und, gewünschtenfalls, Konservierungsstoffe, einen wirksamen Schutz der Zubereitungen selbst gegen Verderb dar.UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.

Vorteilhaft können erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen außerdem Substanzen enthalten, die UV-Strahlung im UVB-Bereich absorbieren, wobei die Gesamtmenge der Filtersubstanzen z.B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1,0 bis 6,0 Gew.-% beträgt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, um kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, diedie Haut vor dem gesamten Bereich der ultravioletten Strahlung schützen. Sie können auch als Sonnenschutzmittel fürs Haar oder die Haut dienen.Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to produce cosmetic preparations To provide that protect the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.

Enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Emulsionen UVB-Filtersubstanzen, können diese öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte öllösliche UVB-Filter sind z.B.:

  • 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
  • 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
  • Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
  • Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure(4-isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester,
  • Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
  • Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester, -2,4,6-Trianilin-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin.
If the emulsions according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
  • Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester, -2,4,6-trianiline (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

Vorteilhafte wasserlösliche UVB-Filter sind z.B.:

  • Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium-oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure selbst;
  • Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
  • Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze.
Examples of advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are:
  • Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid itself;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Die Liste der genannten UVB-Filter, die in Kombination mit den erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkombinationen verwendet werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein.The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

Es kann auch von Vorteil sein, erfindungsgemäße Lipodispersionen mit UVA-Filtern zu formulieren, die bisher üblicherweise in kosmetischen Zubereitungen enthalten sind. Bei diesen Substanzen handelt es sich vorzugsweise um Derivate des Dibenzoylmethans, insbesondere um 1-(4'-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion und um 1-Phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propan-1,3-dion.It may also be advantageous to formulate lipodispersions according to the invention with UVA filters which have hitherto usually been contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.

Erfindungsgemäße kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen können auch anorganische Pigmente enthalten, die üblicherweise in der Kosmetik zum Schutze der Haut vor UV-Strahlen verwendet werden. Dabei handelt es sich um Oxide des Titans, Zinks, Eisens, Zirkoniums, Siliciums, Mangans, Aluminiums, Cers und Mischungen davon, sowie Abwandlungen, bei denen die Oxide die aktiven Agentien sind. Besonders bevorzugt handelt es sich um Pigmente auf der Basis von Titandioxid.Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, Zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide.

Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen können ferner kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z.B. Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Viruzide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, oberflächenaktive Substanzen, Emulgatoren, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, entzündungshemmende Substanzen, Medikamente, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel.The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, virucides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, anti-inflammatory substances, medicines, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents.

Als weitere Bestandteile können verwendet werden:

  • Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
  • Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl-oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.
The following can also be used:
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols with a low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low C number or with fatty acids;
  • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products.

Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen.The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.

Beispiele 1 - 6:Examples 1-6: Polare Lippengele mit hohem Fettanteil Polar lip gels with a high fat content

Lippengel 1Lip gel 1 Lippengel 2Lip gel 2 Lippengel 3Lip gel 3 TribeheninTribehenin 4,04.0 BehenylalkoholBehenyl alcohol 3,53.5 TribeheninTribehenin 2,02.0 C18-36-WachssäurenglycerylesterC 18-36 glyceryl wax ester 2,02.0 CC. 19-3919-39 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearat Alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 25,025.0 C19-39 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl StearatC 19-39 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 20,020.0 C19-39Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl StearatC 19-39 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 15,015.0 Capryl- CaprinsäuretriglyceridCaprylic capric acid triglyceride 10,010.0 Capryl-CaprinsäuretriglyceridCaprylic Capric Acid Triglyceride 15,015.0 JojobaölJojoba oil 5,05.0 2-Octyldodecanol2-octyldodecanol 10,010.0 2-Octyldodecanol2-octyldodecanol 14,014.0 Dicaprylyl EtherDicaprylyl ether 10,010.0 RicinusölCastor oil 34,034.0 RicinusölCastor oil 30,030.0 RicinusölCastor oil 40,040.0 Bis-diglyceryl Caprylat/Caprat/Isostearat/Stearat/H ydriertes AdipatBis-diglyceryl caprylate / caprate / isostearate / stearate / hydrogenated adipate 5,05.0 ShibutterShi butter 10,010.0 Bis-diglyceryl Caprylat/Caprat Isostearate/Stearat/ydriertes AdipatBis-diglyceryl caprylate / caprate isostearate / stearate / hydrated adipate 8,08.0 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat2-ethylhexyl palmitate 12,012.0 AvocadinAvocadin 1,01.0 MyristylmyristatMyristyl myristate 3,03.0 BienenwachsBeeswax 1,51.5 DecyloleatDecyl oleate 5,05.0 Cetearyl IsononanoatCetearyl isononanoate 5,05.0 ParaffinölParaffin oil 5,05.0 Lippengel 4Lip gel 4 Lippengel 5Lip gel 5 Lippengel 6Lip gel 6 Tribehenin BehenylalkoholTribehenin behenyl alcohol 2,02.0 TribeheninTribehenin 1,51.5 TribeheninTribehenin 1,01.0 1,51.5 C18-36-WachssäurenglycerylesterC 18-36 glyceryl wax ester 1,01.0 C18-36-WachssäurenglycerylesterC 18-36 glyceryl wax ester 1,01.0 BehenylalkoholBehenyl alcohol 1,51.5 Ricinusöl, hydriertCastor oil, hydrogenated 2,02.0 CC. 15-2915-29 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearat Alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 20,020.0 C29-49 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl StearatC 29-49 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 12,012.0 C19-39 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl StearatC 19-39 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 18,018.0 Capryl- CaprinsäuretriglyceridCaprylic capric acid triglyceride 20,020.0 Capryl-CaprinsäuretriglyceridCaprylic Capric Acid Triglyceride 20,020.0 Capryl-CaprinsäuretriglyceridCaprylic Capric Acid Triglyceride 10,010.0 2-Octyldodecanol2-octyldodecanol 10,010.0 Cetearyl Octanoat/IsopropylmyristatCetearyl octanoate / isopropyl myristate 10,010.0 2-Octyldodecanol2-octyldodecanol 10,010.0 RicinusölCastor oil 20,020.0 RicinusölCastor oil 30,030.0 RicinusölCastor oil 30,030.0 Bis-diglyceryl Caprylat/Caprat Isostearate/Stearat/Hydriertes AdipatBis-diglyceryl caprylate / caprate isostearate / stearate / hydrogenated adipate 5,05.0 Octyl MethoxycinnamateOctyl methoxycinnamate 2,02.0 Bis-diglyceryl Caprylat/Caprat Isostearat/Stearat/Hy driertes AdipatBis-diglyceryl caprylate / caprate isostearate / stearate / hydrated adipate 5,05.0 SchibutterSki butter 5,05.0 SchibutterSki butter 4,754.75 SchibutterSki butter 3,03.0 CetostearylalkoholCetostearyl alcohol 1,51.5 WollwachsalkoholeWool wax alcohols 1,01.0 Dicaprylyl EtherDicaprylyl ether 10,010.0 MacadamianußölMacadamia nut oil 5,05.0 CetylpalmitatCetyl palmitate 1,01.0 BienenwachsBeeswax 1,51.5 Wasserwater 5,05.0 CarbomerCarbomer 0,0350.035 GlycerinGlycerin 5,05.0 GlycerinGlycerin 5,05.0 NaOH 45%igNaOH 45% 0,01850.0185 TriglyceryldiisostearateTriglyceryl diisostearate 3,753.75 Wasserwater 4,94654.9465 GlycerinGlycerin 5,05.0

Die Fettkomponenten werden bei 90° - 95°C aufgeschmolzen. Getrennt davon wird die Wasserphase auf 70°C erhitzt und dann unter Rühren zur Fettphase gegeben. Die Masse wird unter Rühren abgekühlt.The fat components are melted at 90 ° - 95 ° C. Separately, the water phase is heated to 70 ° C and then added to the fat phase with stirring. The mass is cooled with stirring.

Beispiele 7 - 9:Examples 7-9 Stiftformulierungen Pen formulations

Stift 1Pin 1 Stift 2Pin 2 Stift 3Pin 3 mittelpolarmedium polar mittelpolarmedium polar polarpolar TribeheninTribehenin 1,0%1.0% TribeheninTribehenin 1,0%1.0% TribeheninTribehenin 2,5%2.5% C19-39 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl StearatC 19-39 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 1,0%1.0% C19-39 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl StearatC 19-39 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 0,5%0.5% C19-39 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl StearatC 19-39 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 2,5%2.5% CarnaubawachsCarnauba wax 1,3%1.3% CarnaubawachsCarnauba wax 1,6%1.6% CarnaubawachsCarnauba wax 2,5%2.5% SchibutterSki butter 1,5%1.5% C18-36-WachssäurenglycerylesterC 18-36 glyceryl wax ester 1,0%1.0% SchibutterSki butter 2,5%2.5% MyristylmyristatMyristyl myristate 9,0%9.0% MyristylmyristatMyristyl myristate 10,0%10.0% Jojobawachs hydriertJojoba wax hydrated 4,5%4.5% CeresinCeresin 12,0%12.0% CeresinCeresin 22,4%22.4% CandelillawachsCandelilla wax 6,0%6.0% CetostearylalkoholCetostearyl alcohol 2,5%2.5% CetostearylalkoholCetostearyl alcohol 2,5%2.5% Bis-diglyceryl Caprylat/Caprat/Isostearat/Stearat/Hydriertes AdipatBis-diglyceryl caprylate / caprate / isostearate / stearate / hydrogenated adipate 8,0%8.0% Hydierte KokosfettsäureglycerideHydrogenated coconut fatty acid glycerides 5,0%5.0% Hydierte KokosfettsäureglycerideHydrogenated coconut fatty acid glycerides 3,0%3.0% OzokeritOzokerite 6,0%6.0% BienenwachsBeeswax 5,0%5.0% Capryl-Caprinsäure-TriglyceridCaprylic Capric Acid Triglyceride 26,7%26.7% Capryl-Caprinsäure-TriglyceridCaprylic Capric Acid Triglyceride 22,0%22.0% Capryl-Caprinsäure-TriglyceridCaprylic Capric Acid Triglyceride 10,0%10.0% RicinusölCastor oil 12,0%12.0% RicinusölCastor oil 12,0%12.0% RicinusölCastor oil 13,5%13.5% Dicaprylyl EtherDicaprylyl ether 22,0%22.0% 2-Octyldodecanol2-octyldodecanol 27,0%27.0% Dicapryl EtherDicapryl ether 20,0%20.0% JojobaölJojoba oil 4,0%4.0% AvocadoölAvocado oil 4,0%4.0% MacadamianußölMacadamia nut oil 4,0%4.0% SqualanSqualane 4,0%4.0% Mango-Kern-FettMango core fat 2,0%2.0% Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octydodecyl Lauroyl GlutamatCholesteryl / behenyl / octydodecyl lauroyl glutamate 2,0%2.0%

Die Fettkomponenten werden bei 90° - 95°C aufgeschmolzen. Die Masse kühlt unter Rühren auf 70°C ab und wird dann vergossen.The fat components are melted at 90 ° - 95 ° C. The mass cools to 70 ° C. with stirring and is then poured into the mold.

Beispiele 10 - 14: W/O-Emulsionen Examples 10-14: W / O emulsions

Figure imgb0005
Figure imgb0005

Die Fettphase wird auf 85°C erhitzt bis die festen Bestandteile geschmolzen sind. Die Wasserphase wird getrennt auf 75°C erwärmt und unter Rühren zur Fettphase gegen. Die Emulsion kühlt unter Rühren auf 35°C ab und wird dann homogenisiert.The fat phase is heated to 85 ° C until the solid components have melted. The water phase is heated separately to 75 ° C. and counteracted with fat phase while stirring. The emulsion cools to 35 ° C. with stirring and is then homogenized.

Beispiel 14:Example 14: Kälteschutzcreme Cold protection cream

TribeheninTribehenin 3,5%3.5% C19-39 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl StearateC 19-39 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 20,0%20.0% Bis-diglyceryl Caprylate/Caprate/Isostearate/Stearate/Hydrogenated AdipateBis-diglyceryl caprylate / caprate / isostearate / stearate / hydrogenated adipate 3,5%3.5% Capryl-Caprinsäure-TriglyceridCaprylic Capric Acid Triglyceride 8,0%8.0% 2-Octyldodecanol2-octyldodecanol 8,0%8.0% Dicaprylyl EtherDicaprylyl ether 6,0%6.0% 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat2-ethylhexyl palmitate 6,0%6.0% RicinusölCastor oil 32,0%32.0% AvocadinAvocadin 2,5%2.5% BisabololBisabolol 0,5%0.5% Zinkoxidzinc oxide 5,0%5.0% Talkumtalc 5,0%5.0%

Beispiel 15:Example 15: Baby Wundcreme Baby wound cream

TribeheninTribehenin 3,0%3.0% C19-39 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl StearateC 19-39 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate 18,5%18.5% WollwachsalkoholeWool wax alcohols 1,0%1.0% Glyceryl LanolateGlyceryl lanolate 2,0%2.0% SheabutterShea butter 5,0%5.0% Capryl-Caprinsäure-TriglyceridCaprylic Capric Acid Triglyceride 10,0%10.0% 2-Octyldodecanol2-octyldodecanol 10,0%10.0% RicinusölCastor oil 23,5%23.5% BisabololBisabolol 1,0%1.0% TitandioxidTitanium dioxide 3,0%3.0% Zinkoxidzinc oxide 5,0%5.0% Kaolinkaolin 13,0%13.0% Talkumtalc 5,0%5.0%

4) und 5) Die Fettkomponente werden bei 90° - 95° geschmolzen, anschließend werden die Pigmente untergerührt und mit dem Turrax dispergiert.4) and 5) The fat components are melted at 90 ° - 95 °, then the pigments are stirred in and dispersed with the Turrax.

Claims (6)

Kosmetische Zubereitungen, welche im wesentlichen frei von gesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffen sind, umfassend (a) eine Lipidphase enthaltend mindestens einen Glycerinmono-, - di-, und/oder -tricarbonsäureester verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter einbasiger Fettsäuren mit 18 - 36 Kohlenstoffatomen (= Mono-, Di- und/oder Triglyceride) sowie mindestens einen Ester aus einer Hydroxycarbonsäure und einem verzweigten oder unverzweigten gesättigten Alkohol mit 15 - 49 Kohlenstoffatomen, (d) ferner gegebenenfalls enthaltend Wasser, weitere Lipide, Emulgatoren sowie übliche weitere Wirk-, Hilfs- und/oder Zusatzstoffe. Cosmetic preparations which are substantially free of saturated hydrocarbons (a) a lipid phase containing at least one glycerol mono-, di- and / or tricarboxylic acid ester of branched and / or unbranched monobasic fatty acids with 18-36 carbon atoms (= mono-, di- and / or triglycerides) and at least one ester from one Hydroxycarboxylic acid and a branched or unbranched saturated alcohol with 15-49 carbon atoms, (d) further optionally containing water, other lipids, emulsifiers and customary other active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives. Verwendung von kosmetischen Zubereitungen, welche im wesentlichen frei von gesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffen sind, umfassend (a) eine Lipidphase enthaltend mindestens einen Glycerinmono-, - di-, und/oder -tricarbonsäureester verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter einbasiger Fettsäuren mit 18 - 36 Kohlenstoffatomen (= Mono-, Di- und/oder Triglyceride) sowie mindestens einen Ester gewählt aus der Gruppe der Substanzen mit folgender Struktur
Figure imgb0006
 wobei
R1 und R3 unabhängig voneinander einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten gesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 3 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen darstellen und R2 einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten gesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 5 - 50 Kohlenstoffatomen darstellt und n und m unabhängig voneinander Werte von 5 bis 25 annehmen, (d) ferner gegebenenfalls enthaltend weitere Lipide, Wasser, Emulgatoren sowie übliche weitere Wirk-, Hilfs- und/oder Zusatzstoffe, als Lippenpflegeformulierung.Use of cosmetic preparations which are essentially free of saturated hydrocarbons, comprehensive (a) a lipid phase containing at least one glycerol mono-, di- and / or -tricarboxylic acid ester of branched and / or unbranched monobasic fatty acids with 18-36 carbon atoms (= mono-, di- and / or triglycerides) and at least one ester selected the group of substances with the following structure
Figure imgb0006
 in which
R1 and R3 independently of one another represent a branched or unbranched saturated hydrocarbon radical having 3 to 30 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or unbranched saturated hydrocarbon radical having 5 to 50 carbon atoms and n and m independently of one another have values from 5 to 25, (d) further optionally containing further lipids, water, emulsifiers and customary further active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as a lip care formulation. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 oder Verwendung nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das oder die Mono-, Di- und/oder Triglyceride in einem Gehalt von 2,5 - 5 Gew.-% vor liegt oder liegen, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the one or more mono-, di- and / or triglycerides is or are present in a content of 2.5-5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the Preparations. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 oder Verwendung nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der oder die Ester gewählt aus der Gruppe der Substanzen mit folgender Struktur
Figure imgb0007
 in einem Gehalt von 15 - 25 Gew.-% vorliegt oder liegen, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the ester or esters selected from the group of substances with the following structure
Figure imgb0007
 is or are present in a content of 15-25% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 oder Verwendung nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Lipidphase zu 10 - 90 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 50 - 70 Gew.-%, aus flüssigen Lipiden, zu 0,5 - 90 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 5 - 30 Gew.-%, aus halbfesten Lipiden und zu 0,5 - 50 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 25 - 40 Gew.-%, aus festen Lipiden besteht, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the lipid phase is preferably 10-90% by weight, preferably 50-70% by weight, of liquid lipids, 0.5-90% by weight 5 to 30% by weight of semi-solid lipids and 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably 25 to 40% by weight, of solid lipids, each based on the total weight of the preparations. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 oder Verwendung nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Wassergehalt 0,1 - 15 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 3 - 5 Gew.-% beträgt, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the water content is 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 3-5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
EP96117142A 1995-11-10 1996-10-25 Stable and free of hydrocarbons cosmetic or dermatologic oleogels and O/W emulsions Expired - Lifetime EP0775481B1 (en)

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