EP0706786A2 - Use of chlorogenic acid as antioxidant in cosmetic, especially haircosmetic compositions, and compositions containing chlorogenic acid - Google Patents

Use of chlorogenic acid as antioxidant in cosmetic, especially haircosmetic compositions, and compositions containing chlorogenic acid Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0706786A2
EP0706786A2 EP95115282A EP95115282A EP0706786A2 EP 0706786 A2 EP0706786 A2 EP 0706786A2 EP 95115282 A EP95115282 A EP 95115282A EP 95115282 A EP95115282 A EP 95115282A EP 0706786 A2 EP0706786 A2 EP 0706786A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cosmetic
acid
chlorogenic acid
hair
preparations
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
EP95115282A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0706786A3 (en
Inventor
Klaus Dr. Körbächer
Jan-Henric Dr. Riedel
Hartmut Dr. Schmidt-Lewerkühne
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Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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Publication date
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Publication of EP0706786A2 publication Critical patent/EP0706786A2/en
Publication of EP0706786A3 publication Critical patent/EP0706786A3/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • chlorogenic acid as an antioxidant in cosmetic, in particular hair cosmetic preparations and preparations containing chlorogenic acid.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic, preferably hair cosmetic preparations.
  • the present invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations containing substances that protect the hair and the scalp against oxidation processes.
  • the present invention further relates to antioxidants, preferably those which are used in skin-care cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • the invention also relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such antioxidants.
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of skin aging, in particular skin aging caused by oxidative processes.
  • the dye chromophore is formed by the reaction of precursors (phenols, aminophenols, less often diamines) and bases (mostly p-phenylenediamine) with the oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations around 6% are usually used.
  • the hydrogen peroxide also has a bleaching effect. Similar to bleached hair, microscopic holes in the areas where melanin granules were present can be detected in oxidatively colored human hair.
  • the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide not only reacts with the color precursors, but also with the hair substance and can cause damage to the hair.
  • An object of the present invention was to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • active substances or preparations containing such active substances should be made available, when they are used the damage to the hair by oxidative influence is at least reduced, if not completely prevented.
  • Another object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic preparations which, before or after treatment of the hair with hair dye, even those having a content of strong oxidants such as W asserstoffperoxid counteract the damaging oxidation effect.
  • antioxidants and / or radical scavengers can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations.
  • antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. It has already been proposed in US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 and from numerous other documents to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant activity in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect.
  • cosmetic preparations in particular hair cosmetic preparations, characterized by an effective chlorogenic acid content or the use of chlorogenic acid as a principle effective against harmful oxidative influence on human skin and / or human hair, especially in cosmetic, preferably in hair cosmetic, remedies the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • oxidative influence is to be understood both as the influence of substances having an oxidizing effect and also the oxidative effect of secondary products caused by radiation, namely light, and in particular UV light.
  • Chlorogenic acid is by the structural formula featured. As a hemihydrate, it forms colorless crystals, easily hydrolyzes to caffeic acid and in an acidic environment is found in coffee, young wine and the leaves of certain other plants, such as fruit trees.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. They preferably contain 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, but in particular 0.1% by weight to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent, of chlorogenic acid.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be in various forms. So you can e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O) O / W), a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.
  • chlorogenic acid it is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert chlorogenic acid into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.
  • chlorogenic acid to protect the hair from oxidative stress is therefore also regarded as an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, in particular this use of chlorogenic acid in shampoos and washing formulations.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizer
  • chlorogenic acid can advantageously be combined according to the invention with other antioxidants.
  • antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles e.g. urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g
  • thiols e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine , Cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • Dilauryl thiodipropionate distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximines, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfinimine compatible doses (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), (metal) chelators (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin , Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g.
  • ⁇ -linolenic acid linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, Ascorbylacetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • coniferyl benzoate of benzoin rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharbenzate, trihydroxychloride, trihydroxychloride , Uric acid and its derivatives, Mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO4) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, Nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation .
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to have their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
  • Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain e.g. the fats, oils, waxes and other fat bodies mentioned, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is usually used for such a type of formulation.
  • the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols having a low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore alcohols of low carbon number, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g.
  • Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
  • carbopols for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
  • Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.
  • Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain, for example, the fats, oils, waxes and other fat bodies mentioned, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is usually used for such a type of formulation.
  • Gels according to the invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickener which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily-alcoholic gels and preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.
  • a thickener which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily-alcoholic gels and preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.
  • Suitable propellants for preparations according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the customary, known volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.
  • hydrocarbons propane, butane, isobutane
  • Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to produce cosmetic preparations To provide that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreens for the hair or skin, especially the scalp.
  • UVB filters which can be used in combination with chlorogenic acid, is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a combination of chlorogenic acid with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination chlorogenic acid with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.
  • chlorogenic acid with UVA filters, which have hitherto usually been found in cosmetic preparations.
  • These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • dibenzoylmethane in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a combination of chlorogenic acid with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of chlorogenic acid with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a combination of chlorogenic acid with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of chlorogenic acid with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with an effective chlorogenic acid content can also contain inorganic pigments which are commonly used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide.
  • UVA filter and pigment or preparations containing this combination are also the subject of the invention.
  • the amounts given for the above combinations can be used.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations for protecting the hair from UV rays according to the invention are, for example, shampooing agents, preparations which are used when rinsing the hair before or after the shampooing, before or after the permanent wave treatment, before or after the coloring or discoloration of the Hair is applied to preparations for blow-drying or pickling hair, preparations for coloring or decolouring, to a styling and treatment lotion, a hair lacquer or to permanent waving agents.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological agents contain active ingredients and auxiliaries, as are usually used for this type of preparations for hair care and hair treatment.
  • auxiliaries include preservatives, surface-active substances, substances to prevent foaming, thickeners, emulsifiers, fats, oils, waxes, organic solvents, bactericides, perfumes, dyes or pigments, the task of which is to add hair or the cosmetic or dermatological preparation itself coloring, electroyte, substances against greasing the hair.
  • electrolytes are understood to mean water-soluble alkali metal, ammonium, alkaline earth metal (including magnesium) and zinc salts of inorganic anions and any mixtures of such salts, it being necessary to ensure that these salts are formed by distinguish pharmaceutical or cosmetic safety.
  • the anions according to the invention are preferably selected from the group of chlorides, sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, phosphates, hydrogen phosphates and linear and cyclic oligophosphates as well as carbonates and hydrogen carbonates.
  • Cosmetic preparations which are a skin cleansing agent or shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance, or else mixtures of such substances, chlorogenic acid in the aqueous medium and auxiliaries as are usually used therefor.
  • the surface-active substance or the mixtures of these substances can be present in the shampoo in a concentration between 1% by weight and 50% by weight.
  • a lotion that is rinsed out and e.g. before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing steps, before or after permanent waving, these are e.g. around aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, which may contain surface-active substances, the concentration of which may be between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight.
  • These cosmetic or dermatological preparations can also be aerosols with the auxiliaries usually used for them.
  • a cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion that is not rinsed out, in particular a lotion for inlaying the hair, a lotion used for blow-drying the hair, a styling and treatment lotion generally provides represents an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution and contains at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymer or mixtures thereof, as well as chlorogenic acid in effective concentration.
  • the amount of the polymers used is, for example, between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.
  • Cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair which contain chlorogenic acid can be present as emulsions which are of the non-ionic or anionic type.
  • non-ionic emulsions contain oils or fatty alcohols, which can also be polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, for example, or also mixtures of the two organic components.
  • These emulsions may contain cationic surface-active substances.
  • cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair can be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of chlorogenic acid and solvents usually used for this, preferably water, or organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. Aluminum silicates such as bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate, contain.
  • the thickener is in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.
  • the amount of chlorogenic acid in an agent intended for the hair is preferably 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
  • cosmetic preparations which are a shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, if appropriate an inventive one Electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used for this.
  • the surface-active substance can be present in the shampoo in a concentration between 1% by weight and 94% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention contain water and, if appropriate, the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active substances and the like.
  • the additives customary in cosmetics for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active substances and the like.
  • the present invention also includes a cosmetic method for protecting the skin and hair from oxidative or photooxidative processes, which is characterized in that a cosmetic agent which contains an effective concentration of chlorogenic acid is applied to the skin or hair in sufficient quantity .
  • the present invention also includes a method for protecting cosmetic or dermatological preparations against oxidation or photooxidation, these preparations being e.g. Represent preparations for the treatment and care of the hair, in particular hair colorants, hair lacquers, shampooing agents, color shampooing agents, and also make-up products such as e.g. Nail polishes, lipsticks, complexion bases, washing and shower preparations, creams for the treatment or care of the skin or all other cosmetic preparations, the components of which can cause stability problems due to oxidation or photooxidation during storage, characterized in that the cosmetic preparations have an effective chlorogenic acid content.
  • these preparations being e.g. Represent preparations for the treatment and care of the hair, in particular hair colorants, hair lacquers, shampooing agents, color shampooing agents, and also make-up products such as e.g. Nail polishes, lipsticks, complexion bases, washing and shower preparations, creams for the treatment or care of the skin or all other cosmetic preparations, the components of which can cause stability problems due to
  • the amount of chlorogenic acid in these preparations is preferably 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular 0.1 % By weight to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the invention also relates to the process for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, which is characterized in that chlorogenic acid is incorporated into cosmetic and dermatological formulations in a manner known per se.
  • CGS always means chlorogenic acid. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Hair lotion I. II III Polyquaternium-10 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 Ethanol 8.00 8.00 8.00 CGS 0.01 0.1 0.1 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.30 0.30 - ⁇ -tocopherol 0.30 0.20 - Preservatives, perfumes, dyes q.s. q.s. q.s. Water, VES ad 100.00 ad 100.00 ad 100.00
  • hair conditioner I. II Behentrimonium chloride 2.00 2.00 Glycerin 5.00 5.00 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.20 0.20 CGS 1.00 1.50 Cetearyl alcohol 5.00 5.00 Water, VES ad 100.00 ad 100.00
  • shampoo I. II Polyquaternium-10 0.30 0.30 Sodium laureth sulfate 12.00 12.00 Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate 1.50 1.50 CGS 2.00 0.50 Pearlescent agents 4.00 4.00 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 3.00 3.00 Preservatives, perfume, dyes, thickeners q.s. q.s. Water, VES ad 100.00 ad 100.00

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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  • Organic Low-Molecular-Weight Compounds And Preparation Thereof (AREA)
  • Anti-Oxidant Or Stabilizer Compositions (AREA)

Abstract

Use of chlorogenic acid (I) as an active ingredient in cosmetic or dermatological compsns. for combatting the harmful effects of oxidn. on human hair is new.

Description

Verwendung von Chlorogensäure als Antioxidans in kosmetischen, insbesondere haarkosmetischen Zubereitungen sowie Zubereitungen, Chlorogensäure enthaltend.Use of chlorogenic acid as an antioxidant in cosmetic, in particular hair cosmetic preparations and preparations containing chlorogenic acid.

Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft kosmetische, bevorzugt haarkosmetische Zubereitungen. Insbesondere betrifft die vorliegende Erfindung haarkosmetische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an das Haar sowie die Kopfhaut gegen Oxidationsprozesse schutzenden Substanzen.The present invention relates to cosmetic, preferably hair cosmetic preparations. In particular, the present invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations containing substances that protect the hair and the scalp against oxidation processes.

Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft ferner Antioxidantien, bevorzugt solche, welche in hautpflegenden kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen eingesetzt werden. Insbesondere betrifft die Erfindung auch kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen, solche Antioxidantien enthaltend. In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform betrifft die vorliegende Erfindung kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen zur Prophylaxe und Behandlung der Hautalterung, insbesondere der durch oxidative Prozesse hervorgerufenen Hautalterung.The present invention further relates to antioxidants, preferably those which are used in skin-care cosmetic or dermatological preparations. In particular, the invention also relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such antioxidants. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of skin aging, in particular skin aging caused by oxidative processes.

Soll menschliches Haar dauerhaft gefärbt werden, kommen in der Praxis lediglich oxidierende Haarfärbeverfahren in Betracht. Beim oxidativen Haarfärben erfolgt die Ausbildung des Farbstoffchromophoren durch Reaktion von Präkursoren (Phenole, Aminophenole, seltener auch Diamine) und Basen (meistens p-Phenylendiamin) mit dem Oxidationsmittel, zumeist Wasserstoffperoxid. Wasserstoffperoxidkonzentrationen um 6% werden dabei gewöhnlich verwendet.If human hair is to be dyed permanently, in practice only oxidizing hair dyeing processes can be considered. In oxidative hair dyeing, the dye chromophore is formed by the reaction of precursors (phenols, aminophenols, less often diamines) and bases (mostly p-phenylenediamine) with the oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations around 6% are usually used.

Üblicherweise wird davon ausgegangen, daß neben der Färbewirkung auch eine Bleichwirkung durch das Wasserstoffperoxid erfolgt. In oxidativ gefärbtem menschlichem Haar sind, ähnlich wie bei gebleichtem Haar, mikroskopische Löcher an den Stellen, an denen Melaningranula vorlagen, nachweisbar.It is usually assumed that, in addition to the coloring effect, the hydrogen peroxide also has a bleaching effect. Similar to bleached hair, microscopic holes in the areas where melanin granules were present can be detected in oxidatively colored human hair.

Tatsache ist, daß das Oxidationsmittel Wasserstoffperoxid nicht nur mit den Farbvorstufen, sondern auch mit der Haarsubstanz reagieren und dabei unter Umständen eine Schädigung des Haares bewirken kann.The fact is that the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide not only reacts with the color precursors, but also with the hair substance and can cause damage to the hair.

Eine Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war, die Nachteile des Standes der Technik zu beseitigen. Insbesondere sollten Wirkstoffe bzw. Zubereitungen, solche Wirkstoffe enthaltend, zur Verfügung gestellt werden, bei deren Verwendung die Schädigung des Haares durch oxidativen Einfluß zumindest gemindert, wenn nicht gänzlich verhindert werden können.An object of the present invention was to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, active substances or preparations containing such active substances should be made available, when they are used the damage to the hair by oxidative influence is at least reduced, if not completely prevented.

Eine weitere Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung bestand darin, kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, welche vor oder nach Behandlung des Haars mit Haarfärbezubereitungen, selbst solcher mit einem Gehalt an starken Oxidationsmitteln wie z.B. Wasserstoffperoxid, deren schädigenden Oxidationswirkung entgegenwirken.Another object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic preparations which, before or after treatment of the hair with hair dye, even those having a content of strong oxidants such as W asserstoffperoxid counteract the damaging oxidation effect.

Antioxidantien sind Substanzen, welche Oxidationsprozesse verhindern bzw. welche die Autoxidation ungesättigte Verbindungen enthaltender Fette verhindern. Antioxidantien, welche auch auf dem Gebiete der Kosmetik und Pharmazie Verwendung finden sind beispielsweise α-Tocopherol, Sesamol, Gallensäurederivate, Butylhydroxyanisol und Butylhydroxytoluol.Antioxidants are substances which prevent oxidation processes or which prevent the autoxidation of fats containing unsaturated compounds. Antioxidants which are also used in the fields of cosmetics and pharmacy are, for example, α-tocopherol, sesamol, bile acid derivatives, butylated hydroxyanisole and butylated hydroxytoluene.

Auch aus dem Grunde, solchen Reaktionen vorzubeugen, können kosmetischen Formulierungen zusätzlich Antioxidantien und/oder Radikalfänger einverleibt werden.Also for the reason of preventing such reactions, additional antioxidants and / or radical scavengers can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations.

Zwar sind einige Antioxidantien und Radikalfänger bekannt. So ist bereits in den US-Patentschriften 4,144,325 und 4,248,861 sowie aus zahlreichen anderen Dokumenten vorgeschlagen worden, Vitamin E, eine Substanz mit bekannter antioxidativer Wirkung in Lichtschutzformulierungen einzusetzen, dennoch bleibt auch hier die erzielte Wirkung weit hinter der erhofften zurück.Some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. It has already been proposed in US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861 and from numerous other documents to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant activity in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect.

Es war überraschend und für den Fachmann nicht vorauszusehen, daß kosmetische Zubereitungen, insbesondere haarkosmetische Zubereitungen, gekennzeichnet durch einen wirksamen Gehalt an Chlorogensäure, bzw. die Verwendung von Chlorogensäure als gegen schädlichen oxidativen Einfluß auf die menschliche Haut und/oder das menschliche Haar wirksames Prinzip, zumal in kosmetischen, bevorzugt in haarkosmetischen Zubereitungen den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhilft.It was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic preparations, in particular hair cosmetic preparations, characterized by an effective chlorogenic acid content or the use of chlorogenic acid as a principle effective against harmful oxidative influence on human skin and / or human hair, especially in cosmetic, preferably in hair cosmetic, remedies the disadvantages of the prior art.

Unter dem Begriff "oxidativer Einfluß" ist sowohl der Einfluß von oxidierend wirkenden Substanzen zu verstehen als auch die oxidative Wirkung von durch Strahlung, namentlich Licht, und insbesondere UV-Licht, hervorgerufenen Folgeprodukten.The term “oxidative influence” is to be understood both as the influence of substances having an oxidizing effect and also the oxidative effect of secondary products caused by radiation, namely light, and in particular UV light.

Chlorogensäure ist durch die Strukturformel

Figure imgb0001

gekennzeichnet. Sie bildet als Hemihydrat farblose Kristalle aus, hydrolysiert in saurem Milieu leicht zu Kaffeesäure und ist in Kaffee, jungem Wein und den Blättern bestimmter anderer Pflanzen enthalten, beispielsweise von Obstbäumen.Chlorogenic acid is by the structural formula
Figure imgb0001
featured. As a hemihydrate, it forms colorless crystals, easily hydrolyzes to caffeic acid and in an acidic environment is found in coffee, young wine and the leaves of certain other plants, such as fruit trees.

Im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist bevorzugt, native Chlorogensäure mit der vorherrschenden stereochemischen Konfiguration bzw. Koformation zu verwenden. Es ist jedoch gegebenenfalls auch von Vorteil, beliebige Stereoisomere, sei es einzeln oder im beliebigen Gemisch untereinander, einzusetzen.For the purposes of the present invention, preference is given to using native chlorogenic acid with the predominant stereochemical configuration or co-formation. However, it may also be advantageous to use any stereoisomers, either individually or in any mixture with one another.

Es war für den Fachmann nicht vorauszusehen gewesen, daß Chlorogensäure bzw. kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen, diese enthaltend

  • besser als Antioxidans wirken
  • besser als Radikalfänger wirken
  • besser die Bindung von schädlichen Photoprodukten an Lipide, DNS und Proteine verhindern
  • besser gegen die Hautalterung wirken
  • besser die Haut gegen Photoreaktionen schützen
würde als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.It was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that chlorogenic acid or cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing it
  • work better as an antioxidant
  • work better than radical scavengers
  • better prevent the binding of harmful photo products to lipids, DNA and proteins
  • work better against aging
  • better protect the skin against photoreactions
would be considered the prior art preparations.

Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierungen können wie üblich zusammengesetzt sein und zur Behandlung, der Pflege und der Reinigung der Haut und/oder der Haare und als Schminkprodukt in der dekorativen Kosmetik dienen. Sie enthalten bevorzugt 0,01 Gew.-% bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere aber 0,1 Gew.-% bis 6 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels, an Chlorogensäure.The cosmetic or dermatological formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. They preferably contain 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, but in particular 0.1% by weight to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent, of chlorogenic acid.

Zur Anwendung werden die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen in der für Kosmetika üblichen Weise auf die Haut und/oder die Haare in ausreichender Menge aufgebracht.For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.

Erfindungsgemäße kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen können in verschiedenen Formen vorliegen. So können sie z.B. eine Lösung, eine Emulsion vom Typ Wasser-in-Öl (W/O) oder vom Typ Öl-in-Wasser (O/W), eine multiple Emulsionen, beispielsweise vom Typ Wasser-in-Öl-in-Wasser (W/O/W), ein Gel, einen festen Stift oder auch ein Aerosol darstellen.Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be in various forms. So you can e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (O / W), a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O) O / W), a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.

Es ist auch möglich und vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, Chlorogensäure in wäßrige Systeme bzw. Tensidzubereitungen zur Reinigung der Haut und der Haare einzufügen.It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert chlorogenic acid into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

Als vorteilhafte Verkörperung der vorliegenden Erfindung wird daher auch die Verwendung von Chlorogensäure zum Schutze der Haare vor oxidativer Beanspruchung angesehen, insbesondere diese Verwendung von Chlorogensäure in Shampoos und Waschformulierungen.The use of chlorogenic acid to protect the hair from oxidative stress is therefore also regarded as an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, in particular this use of chlorogenic acid in shampoos and washing formulations.

Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen können kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z.B. Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, oberflächenaktive Substanzen, Emulgatoren, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchhaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate.The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Insbesondere kann die Chlorogensäure erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft mit anderen Antioxidantien kombiniert werden.In particular, the chlorogenic acid can advantageously be combined according to the invention with other antioxidants.

Erfindungsgemäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.

Vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäuren (z.B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z.B. Urocaninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Carnosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Derivate (z.B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z.B. α-Carotin, β-Carotin, Lycopin) und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z.B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z.B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z.B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z.B. pmol bis µmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z.B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), α-Hydroxysäuren (z.B. Zitronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z.B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, Vitamin C und Derivate (z.B. Ascorbylpalmitat, Mg-Ascorbylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z.B. Vitamin-E-acetat), Vitamin A und Derivate (Vitamin-A-palmitat) sowie Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, Ferulasäure und deren Derivate, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z.B. ZnO, ZnSO₄) Selen und dessen Derivate (z.B. Selenmethionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z.B. Stilbenoxid, Trans-Stilbenoxid) und die erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine , Cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximines, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfinimine compatible doses (e.g. pmol to µmol / kg), (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin , Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, Ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharbenzate, trihydroxychloride, trihydroxychloride , Uric acid and its derivatives, Mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO₄) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, Nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Die Menge der Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation .

Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Sofern Vitamin A, bzw. Vitamin-A-Derivate, bzw. Carotine bzw. deren Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen.If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to have their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

Erfindungsgemäße Emulsionen sind vorteilhaft und enthalten z.B. die genannten Fette, Öle, Wachse und anderen Fettkörper, sowie Wasser und einen Emulgator, wie er üblicherweise für einen solchen Typ der Formulierung verwendet wird.Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain e.g. the fats, oils, waxes and other fat bodies mentioned, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is usually used for such a type of formulation.

Die Lipidphase kann dabei vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus folgender Substanzgruppe:

  • natürliche, synthetische und/oder partialsynthetische Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizinusöl;
  • Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche synthetische und/oder partialsynthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
  • Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.
The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:
  • natural, synthetic and / or partially synthetic oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
  • Fats, waxes and other natural synthetic and / or partially synthetic fat bodies, preferably Esters of fatty acids with low C number alcohols, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
  • Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

Die wäßrige Phase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen enthält gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte, ferner Alkohole niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. Ethanol, Isopropanol, 1,2-Propandiol, Glycerin sowie insbesondere ein oder mehrere Verdickungsmittel, welches oder welche vorteilhaft gewählt werden können aus der Gruppe Siliciumdioxid, Aluminiumsilikate, Polysaccharide bzw. deren Derivate, z.B. Hyaluronsäure, Xanthangummi, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, besonders vorteilhaft aus der Gruppe der Polyacrylate, bevorzugt ein Polyacrylat aus der Gruppe der sogenannten Carbopole, beispielsweise Carbopole der Typen 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, jeweils einzeln oder in Kombination.The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols having a low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore alcohols of low carbon number, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.

Insbesondere werden Gemische der vorstehend genannten Lösemittel verwendet. Bei alkoholischen Lösemitteln kann Wasser ein weiterer Bestandteil sein.Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.

Erfindungsgemäße Emulsionen sind vorteilhaft und enthalten z.B. die genannten Fette, Öle, Wachse und anderen Fettkörper, sowie Wasser und einen Emulgator, wie er üblicherweise für einen solchen Typ der Formulierung verwendet wird.Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain, for example, the fats, oils, waxes and other fat bodies mentioned, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is usually used for such a type of formulation.

Gele gemäß der Erfindung enthalten üblicherweise Alkohole niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. Ethanol, Isopropanol, 1,2-Propandiol, Glycerin und Wasser bzw. ein vorstehend genanntes Öl in Gegenwart eines Verdickungsmittels, das bei ölig-alkoholischen Gelen vorzugsweise Siliciumdioxid oder ein Aluminiumsilikat, bei wäßrig-alkoholischen oder alkoholischen Gelen vorzugweise ein Polyacrylat ist.Gels according to the invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickener which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily-alcoholic gels and preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.

Als Treibmittel für erfindungsgemäße, aus Aerosolbehältern versprühbare Zubereitungen sind die üblichen bekannten leichtflüchtigen, verflüssigten Treibmittel, beispielsweise Kohlenwasserstoffe (Propan, Butan, Isobutan) geeignet, die allein oder in Mischung miteinander eingesetzt werden können. Auch Druckluft ist vorteilhaft zu verwenden.Suitable propellants for preparations according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the customary, known volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Vorteilhaft können erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen außerdem Substanzen enthalten, die UV-Strahlung im UVB-Bereich absorbieren, wobei die Gesamtmenge der Filtersubstanzen z.B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1,0 bis 6,0 Gew.-% beträgt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, um kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die das Haar bzw. die Haut vor dem gesamten Bereich der ultravioletten Strahlung schützen. Sie können auch als Sonnenschutzmittel fürs Haar oder die Haut, insbesondere die Kopfhaut dienen.Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to produce cosmetic preparations To provide that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreens for the hair or skin, especially the scalp.

Enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Emulsionen UVB-Filtersubstanzen, können diese öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein. Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhafte öllösliche UVB-Filter sind z.B.:

  • 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
  • 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
  • Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
  • Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure(4-isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester,
  • Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
  • Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester, - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazin.
If the emulsions according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
  • Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

Vorteilhafte wasserlösliche UVB-Filter sind z.B.:

  • Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
  • Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
  • Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze.
Examples of advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are:
  • Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and also the sulfonic acid itself;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Die Liste der genannten UVB-Filter, die in Kombination mit Chlorogensäure verwendet werden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein.The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used in combination with chlorogenic acid, is of course not intended to be limiting.

Gegenstand der Erfindung ist auch die Verwendung einer Kombination der Chlorogensäure mit mindestens einem UVB-Filter als Antioxidans bzw. die Verwendung einer Kombination der Chlorogensäure mit mindestens einem UVBFilter als Antioxidans in einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitung.The invention also relates to the use of a combination of chlorogenic acid with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination chlorogenic acid with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Es kann auch von Vorteil sein, Chlorogensäure mit UVA-Filtern zu kombinieren, die bisher üblicherweise in kosmetischen Zubereitungen enthalten sind. Bei diesen Substanzen handelt es sich vorzugsweise um Derivate des Dibenzoylmethans, insbesondere um 1-(4'-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion und um 1-Phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propan-1,3-dion. Auch diese Kombinationen bzw. Zubereitungen, die diese Kombinationen enthalten, sind Gegenstand der Erfindung. Es können die für die UVB-Kombination verwendeten Mengen eingesetzt werden.It can also be advantageous to combine chlorogenic acid with UVA filters, which have hitherto usually been found in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. These combinations or preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. The quantities used for the UVB combination can be used.

Gegenstand der Erfindung ist auch die Verwendung einer Kombination der Chlorogensäure mit mindestens einem UVA-Filter als Antioxidans bzw. die Verwendung einer Kombination der Chlorogensäure mit mindestens einem UVA-Filter als Antioxidans in einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitung.The invention also relates to the use of a combination of chlorogenic acid with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of chlorogenic acid with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Gegenstand der Erfindung ist auch die Verwendung einer Kombination der Chlorogensäure mit mindestens einem UVA-Filter und mindestens einem UVB-Filter als Antioxidans bzw. die Verwendung einer Kombination der Chlorogensäure mit mindestens einem UVA-Filter und mindestens einem UVB-Filter als Antioxidans in einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitung.The invention also relates to the use of a combination of chlorogenic acid with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of chlorogenic acid with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

Kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem wirksamen Gehalt an Chlorogensäure können auch anorganische Pigmente enthalten, die üblicherweise in der Kosmetik zum Schutze der Haut vor UV-Strahlen verwendet werden. Dabei handelt es sich um Oxide des Titans, Zinks, Eisens, Zirkoniums, Siliciums, Mangans, Aluminiums, Cers und Mischungen davon, sowie Abwandlungen, bei denen die Oxide die aktiven Agentien sind. Besonders bevorzugt handelt es sich um Pigmente auf der Basis von Titandioxid.Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with an effective chlorogenic acid content can also contain inorganic pigments which are commonly used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide.

Auch diese Kombinationen von UVA-Filter und Pigment bzw. Zubereitungen, die diese Kombination enthalten, sind Gegenstand der Erfindung. Es können die für die vorstehenden Kombinationen genannten Mengen verwendet werden.These combinations of UVA filter and pigment or preparations containing this combination are also the subject of the invention. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.

Bei kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen zum Schutze der Haare vor UV-Strahlen gemäß der Erfindung handelt es sich beispielsweise um Shampoonierungsmittel, Zubereitungen, die beim Spülen der Haare vor oder nach der Shampoonierung, vor oder nach der Dauerwellbehandlung, vor oder nach der Färbung oder Entfärbung der Haare angewendet werden, um Zubereitungen zum Fönen oder Einlegen der Haare, Zubereitungen zum Färben oder Entfärben, um eine Frisier- und Behandlungslotion, einen Haarlack oder um Dauerwellmittel.Cosmetic and dermatological preparations for protecting the hair from UV rays according to the invention are, for example, shampooing agents, preparations which are used when rinsing the hair before or after the shampooing, before or after the permanent wave treatment, before or after the coloring or discoloration of the Hair is applied to preparations for blow-drying or pickling hair, preparations for coloring or decolouring, to a styling and treatment lotion, a hair lacquer or to permanent waving agents.

Die kosmetischen und dermatologischen enthalten Wirkstoffe und Hilfsstoffe, wie sie üblicherweise für diesen Typ von Zubereitungen zur Haarpflege und Haarbehandlung verwendet werden. Als Hilfsstoffe dienen Konservierungsmittel, oberflächenaktive Substanzen, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Verdickungsmittel, Emulgatoren, Fette, Öle, Wachse, organische Lösungsmittel, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Farbstoffe oder Pigmente, deren Aufgabe es ist, die Haare oder die kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitung selbst zu färben, Elektroyte, Substanzen gegen das Fetten der Haare.The cosmetic and dermatological agents contain active ingredients and auxiliaries, as are usually used for this type of preparations for hair care and hair treatment. Auxiliaries include preservatives, surface-active substances, substances to prevent foaming, thickeners, emulsifiers, fats, oils, waxes, organic solvents, bactericides, perfumes, dyes or pigments, the task of which is to add hair or the cosmetic or dermatological preparation itself coloring, electroyte, substances against greasing the hair.

Unter Elektrolyten im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind wasserlösliche Alkali-, Ammonium-, Erdalkali- (unter Einbeziehung des Magnesiums) und Zinksalze anorganischer Anionen und beliebige Gemische aus solchen Salzen zu verstehen, wobei gewährleistet sein muß, daß sich diese Salze durch pharmazeutische oder kosmetische Unbedenklichkeit auszeichnen.For the purposes of the present invention, electrolytes are understood to mean water-soluble alkali metal, ammonium, alkaline earth metal (including magnesium) and zinc salts of inorganic anions and any mixtures of such salts, it being necessary to ensure that these salts are formed by distinguish pharmaceutical or cosmetic safety.

Die erfindungsgemäßen Anionen werden bevorzugt gewählt aus der Gruppe der Chloride, der Sulfate und Hydrogensulfate, der Phosphate, Hydrogenphosphate und der linearen und cyclischen Oligophosphate sowie der Carbonate und Hydrogencarbonate.The anions according to the invention are preferably selected from the group of chlorides, sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, phosphates, hydrogen phosphates and linear and cyclic oligophosphates as well as carbonates and hydrogen carbonates.

Kosmetische Zubereitungen, die ein Hautreinigungsmittel oder Shampoonierungsmittel darstellen, enthalten vorzugsweise mindestens eine anionische, nicht-ionische oder amphotere oberflächenaktive Substanz, oder auch Gemische aus solchen Substanzen, Chlorogensäure im wäßrigen Medium und Hilfsmittel, wie sie üblicherweise dafür verwendet werden. Die oberflächenaktive Substanz bzw. die Gemische aus diesen Substanzen können in einer Konzentration zwischen 1 Gew.-% und 50 Gew.-% in dem Shampoonierungsmittel vorliegen.Cosmetic preparations which are a skin cleansing agent or shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance, or else mixtures of such substances, chlorogenic acid in the aqueous medium and auxiliaries as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance or the mixtures of these substances can be present in the shampoo in a concentration between 1% by weight and 50% by weight.

Liegen die kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen in Form einer Lotion vor, die ausgespült und z.B. vor oder nach der Entfärbung, vor oder nach der Shampoonierung, zwischen zwei Shampoonierungsschritten, vor oder nach der Dauerwellbehandlung angewendet wird, so handelt es sich dabei z.B. um wäßrige oder wäßrig-alkoholische Lösungen, die gegebenenfalls oberflächenaktive Substanzen enthalten, deren Konzentration zwischen 0,1 und 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise zwischen 0,2 und 5 Gew.-%, liegen kann.Are the cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of a lotion that is rinsed out and e.g. before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing steps, before or after permanent waving, these are e.g. around aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, which may contain surface-active substances, the concentration of which may be between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight.

Diese kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen können auch Aerosole mit den üblicherweise dafür verwendeten Hilfsmitteln darstellen.These cosmetic or dermatological preparations can also be aerosols with the auxiliaries usually used for them.

Eine kosmetische Zubereitung in Form einer Lotion, die nicht ausgespült wird, insbesondere eine Lotion zum Einlegen der Haare, eine Lotion, die beim Fönen der Haare verwendet wird, eine Frisier- und Behandlungslotion, stellt im allgemeinen eine wäßrige, alkoholische oder wäßrig-alkoholische Lösung dar und enthält mindestens ein kationisches, anionisches, nicht-ionisches oder amphoteres Polymer oder auch Gemische derselben, sowie Chlorogensäure in wirksamer Konzentration. Die Menge der verwendeten Polymeren liegt z.B. zwischen 0,1 und 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt zwischen 0,1 und 3 Gew.-%.A cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion that is not rinsed out, in particular a lotion for inlaying the hair, a lotion used for blow-drying the hair, a styling and treatment lotion, generally provides represents an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution and contains at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymer or mixtures thereof, as well as chlorogenic acid in effective concentration. The amount of the polymers used is, for example, between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.

Kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und Pflege der Haare, die Chlorogensäure enthalten, können als Emulsionen vorliegen, die vom nicht-ionischen oder anionischen Typ sind. Nicht-ionische Emulsionen enthalten neben Wasser Öle oder Fettalkohole, die beispielsweise auch polyethoxyliert oder polypropoxyliert sein können, oder auch Gemische aus den beiden organischen Komponenten. Diese Emulsionen enthalten gegebenenfalls kationische oberflächenaktive Substanzen.Cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair which contain chlorogenic acid can be present as emulsions which are of the non-ionic or anionic type. In addition to water, non-ionic emulsions contain oils or fatty alcohols, which can also be polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, for example, or also mixtures of the two organic components. These emulsions may contain cationic surface-active substances.

Erfindungsgemäß können kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und Pflege der Haare als Gele vorliegen, die neben einem wirksamen Gehalt an Chlorogensäure und dafür üblicherweise verwendeten Lösungsmitteln, bevorzugt Wasser, noch organische Verdickungsmittel, z.B. Gummiarabikum, Xanthangummi, Natriumalginat, Cellulose-Derivate, vorzugsweise Methylcellulose, Hydroxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose oder anorganische Verdickungsmittel, z.B. Aluminiumsilikate wie beispielsweise Bentonite, oder ein Gemisch aus Polyethylenglykol und Polyethylenglycolstearat oder -distearat, enthalten. Das Verdickungsmittel ist in dem Gel z.B. in einer Menge zwischen 0,1 und 30 Gew.-%, bevorzugt zwischen 0,5 und 15 Gew.-%, enthalten.According to the invention, cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair can be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of chlorogenic acid and solvents usually used for this, preferably water, or organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. Aluminum silicates such as bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate, contain. The thickener is in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

Vorzugsweise beträgt die Menge der Chlorogensäure in einem für die Haare bestimmten Mittel 0,05 Gew.-% bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,5 Gew.-% bis 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels.The amount of chlorogenic acid in an agent intended for the hair is preferably 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.

Erfindungsgemäße wäßrige kosmetische Reinigungsmittel oder für die wäßrige Reinigung bestimmte wasserarme oder wasserfreie Reinigungsmittelkonzentrate können anionische, nichtionische und/oder amphotere Tenside enthalten, beispielsweise

  • herkömmliche Seifen, z.B. Fettsäuresalze des Natriums
  • Alkylsulfate, Alkylethersulfate, Alkan- und Alkylbenzolsulfonate
  • Sulfoacetate
  • Sulfobetaine
  • Sarcosinate
  • Amidosulfobetaine
  • Sulfosuccinate
  • Sulfobernsteinsäurehalbester
  • Alkylethercarboxylate
  • Eiweiß-Fettsäure-Kondensate
  • Alkylbetaine und Amidobetaine
  • Fettsäurealkanolamide
  • Polyglycolether-Derivate
Kosmetische Zubereitungen, die kosmetische Reinigungszubereitungen für die Haut darstellen, können in flüssiger oder fester Form vorliegen. Sie enthalten vorzugsweise mindestens eine anionische, nicht-ionische oder amphotere oberflächenaktive Substanz oder Gemische daraus, mindestens einen erfindungsgemäßes Elektrolyten und Hilfsmittel, wie sie üblicherweise dafür verwendet werden. Die oberflächenaktive Substanz kann in einer Konzentration zwischen 1 und 94 Gew.-% in den Reinigungszubereitungen vorliegen, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.Aqueous cosmetic detergents according to the invention or low-water or anhydrous detergent concentrates intended for aqueous cleaning may contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example
  • conventional soaps, eg fatty acid salts of sodium
  • Alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkyl benzene sulfonates
  • Sulfoacetates
  • Sulfobetaines
  • Sarcosinate
  • Amidosulfobetaines
  • Sulfosuccinates
  • Sulfosuccinic acid semiesters
  • Alkyl ether carboxylates
  • Protein fatty acid condensates
  • Alkyl betaines and amido betaines
  • Fatty acid alkanolamides
  • Polyglycol ether derivatives
Cosmetic preparations, which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or solid form. They preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, at least one electrolyte according to the invention and auxiliary agents, as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance can be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration between 1 and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Kosmetische Zubereitungen, die ein Shampoonierungsmittel darstellen, enthalten neben einem wirksamen Gehalt an Chlorogensäure vorzugsweise mindestens eine anionische, nichtionische oder amphotere oberflächenaktive Substanz oder Gemische daraus, gegebenenfalls einen erfindungsgemäßes Elektrolyten und Hilfsmittel, wie sie üblicherweise dafür verwendet werden. Die oberflächenaktive Substanz kann in einer Konzentration zwischen 1 Gew.-% und 94 Gew.-% in dem Shampoonierungsmittel vorliegen.In addition to an effective chlorogenic acid content, cosmetic preparations which are a shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, if appropriate an inventive one Electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used for this. The surface-active substance can be present in the shampoo in a concentration between 1% by weight and 94% by weight.

Die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen enthalten außer den vorgenannten Tensiden Wasser und gegebenenfalls die in der Kosmetik üblichen Zusatzstoffe, beispielsweise Parfüm, Verdicker, Farbstoffe, Desodorantien, antimikrobielle Stoffe, rückfettende Agentien, Komplexierungs- und Sequestrierungsagentien, Perlglanzagentien, Pflanzenextrakte, Vitamine, Wirkstoffe und dergleichen.In addition to the aforementioned surfactants, the compositions according to the invention contain water and, if appropriate, the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active substances and the like.

Die vorliegende Erfindung umfaßt auch ein kosmetisches Verfahren zum Schutze der Haut und der Haare vor oxidativen bzw. photooxidativen Prozessen, das dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, daß man ein kosmetisches Mittel, welches eine wirksame Konzentration an Chlorogensäure enthält, in ausreichender Menge auf die Haut oder Haare aufbringt.The present invention also includes a cosmetic method for protecting the skin and hair from oxidative or photooxidative processes, which is characterized in that a cosmetic agent which contains an effective concentration of chlorogenic acid is applied to the skin or hair in sufficient quantity .

Ebenso umfaßt die vorliegende Erfindung auch ein Verfahren zum Schutze kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen gegen Oxidation oder Photooxidation, wobei diese Zubereitungen z.B. Zubereitungen zur Behandlung und Pflege der Haare darstellen, insbesondere Haarfärbemittel, Haarlacke, Shampoonierungsmittel, Farbshampoonierungsmittel, ferner Schminkprodukte wie z.B. Nagellacke, Lippenstifte, Teintgrundlagen, Wasch- und Duschzubereitungen, Cremes zur Behandlung oder Pflege der Haut oder um sämtliche anderen kosmetischen Zubereitungen handelt, deren Bestandteile Stabilitätsprobleme aufgrund von Oxidation bzw. Photooxidation bei der Lagerung mit sich bringen können, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die kosmetischen Zubereitungen einen wirksamen Gehalt an Chlorogensäure aufweisen.The present invention also includes a method for protecting cosmetic or dermatological preparations against oxidation or photooxidation, these preparations being e.g. Represent preparations for the treatment and care of the hair, in particular hair colorants, hair lacquers, shampooing agents, color shampooing agents, and also make-up products such as e.g. Nail polishes, lipsticks, complexion bases, washing and shower preparations, creams for the treatment or care of the skin or all other cosmetic preparations, the components of which can cause stability problems due to oxidation or photooxidation during storage, characterized in that the cosmetic preparations have an effective chlorogenic acid content.

Vorzugsweise beträgt die Menge an Chlorogensäure in diesen Zubereitungen 0,001 Gew.-% bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 Gew.-% bis 3 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The amount of chlorogenic acid in these preparations is preferably 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular 0.1 % By weight to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Gegenstand der Erfindung ist auch das Verfahren zur Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Mittel, das dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, daß man in an sich bekannter Weise Chlorogensäure in kosmetische und dermatologische Formulierungen einarbeitet.The invention also relates to the process for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, which is characterized in that chlorogenic acid is incorporated into cosmetic and dermatological formulations in a manner known per se.

Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen, ohne sie einzuschränken. CGS bedeutet dabei stets Chlorogensäure. Alle Mengenangaben, Anteile und Prozentanteile sind, soweit nicht anders angegeben, auf das Gewicht und die Gesamtmenge bzw. auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen bezogen.The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. CGS always means chlorogenic acid. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

Beispiel 1example 1

Haarkur ohne AusspülenHair treatment without rinsing II. IIII IIIIII IVIV HydroxyethylcelluloseHydroxyethyl cellulose 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 2,002.00 CetrimoniumchloridCetrimonium chloride 1,501.50 1,501.50 1,501.50 1,501.50 CGSCGS 0,100.10 0,100.10 0,010.01 0,010.01 PanthenolPanthenol 0,500.50 0,500.50 0,500.50 0,500.50 PEG-40-hydriertes RizinusölPEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0,300.30 0,500.50 0,300.30 0,500.50 Konservierungsmittel, Parfum, FarbstoffePreservatives, perfumes, dyes q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. α-Tocopherolα-tocopherol -- 0,100.10 -- 0,100.10 Wasser, VESWater, VES ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

Beispiel 2Example 2

HaarlotionHair lotion II. IIII IIIIII Polyquaternium-10Polyquaternium-10 0,300.30 0,300.30 0,300.30 EthanolEthanol 8,008.00 8,008.00 8,008.00 CGSCGS 0,010.01 0,10.1 0,10.1 PEG-40-hydriertes RizinusölPEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0,300.30 0,300.30 -- α-Tocopherolα-tocopherol 0,300.30 0,200.20 -- Konservierungsmittel, Parfum, FarbstoffePreservatives, perfumes, dyes q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasser, VESWater, VES ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

Beispiel 3Example 3

Haarkur mit AusspülenHair treatment with rinsing II. IIII HydroxypropylmethylcelluloseHydroxypropylmethyl cellulose 0,500.50 0,500.50 CetrimoniumbromidCetrimonium bromide 1,501.50 0,500.50 BehentrimoniumbromidBehentrimonium bromide 0,500.50 1,501.50 GlycerinGlycerin 6,506.50 6,506.50 PanthenolPanthenol 1,001.00 1,001.00 CetearylalkoholCetearyl alcohol 3,503.50 3,503.50 GlycerylstearatGlyceryl stearate 3,003.00 3,003.00 CGSCGS 1,001.00 0,700.70 Konservierungsmittel, Parfum, FarbstoffePreservatives, perfumes, dyes q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasser, VESWater, VES ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

Beispiel 4Example 4

Haarspülunghair conditioner II. IIII BehentrimoniumchloridBehentrimonium chloride 2,002.00 2,002.00 GlycerinGlycerin 5,005.00 5,005.00 HydroxyethylcelluloseHydroxyethyl cellulose 0,200.20 0,200.20 CGSCGS 1,001.00 1,501.50 CetearylalkoholCetearyl alcohol 5,005.00 5,005.00 Wasser, VESWater, VES ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

Beispiel 5Example 5

Shampooshampoo II. IIII Polyquaternium-10Polyquaternium-10 0,300.30 0,300.30 NatriumlaurethsulfatSodium laureth sulfate 12,0012.00 12,0012.00 DinatriumlaurethsulfosuccinatDisodium laureth sulfosuccinate 1,501.50 1,501.50 CGSCGS 2,002.00 0,500.50 PerlglanzmittelPearlescent agents 4,004.00 4,004.00 CocoamidopropylbetainCocoamidopropyl betaine 3,003.00 3,003.00 Konservierungsmittel, Parfum, Farbstoffe, VerdickerPreservatives, perfume, dyes, thickeners q.s.q.s. q.s.q.s. Wasser, VESWater, VES ad 100,00ad 100.00 ad 100,00ad 100.00

Claims (3)

Kosmetische Zubereitungen, gekennzeichnet durch einen wirksamen Gehalt an Chlorogensäure.Cosmetic preparations, characterized by an effective chlorogenic acid content. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1, gekennzeichnet durch einen Gehalt an Chlorogensäure von 0,01 Gew.-% bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 Gew.-% bis 6 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.Preparations according to Claim 1, characterized by a chlorogenic acid content of 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular 0.1% by weight to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Verwendung von Chlorogensäure als wirksames Prinzip gegen den schädlichen oxidativen Einfluß auf das menschliche Haar sowie die menschliche Haut.Use of chlorogenic acid as an effective principle against the harmful oxidative influence on human hair and human skin.
EP95115282A 1994-10-11 1995-09-28 Use of chlorogenic acid as antioxidant in cosmetic, especially haircosmetic compositions, and compositions containing chlorogenic acid Withdrawn EP0706786A3 (en)

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US4248861A (en) 1979-02-21 1981-02-03 Schutt Steven R Skin treatment methods

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WO2006032122A1 (en) * 2004-09-24 2006-03-30 Natura Cosméticos S.A. An antioxidant complex and a cosmetic and pharmaceutical composition comprising said complex

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