EP0208223A2 - Shoe-making method - Google Patents
Shoe-making method Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0208223A2 EP0208223A2 EP86108879A EP86108879A EP0208223A2 EP 0208223 A2 EP0208223 A2 EP 0208223A2 EP 86108879 A EP86108879 A EP 86108879A EP 86108879 A EP86108879 A EP 86108879A EP 0208223 A2 EP0208223 A2 EP 0208223A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- shoe
- insole
- plateau
- california
- last
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
- A43B9/14—Platform shoes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
Definitions
- the invention relates to the manufacture of shoes.
- the Ago shoe is not flexible enough in the forefoot.
- the invention has for its object to avoid the disadvantages of the known methods and to provide a method for shoe manufacture, with the help of which a dimensionally stable, durable and flexible shoe can be produced. This object is achieved by the features specified in claim 1.
- the bar is numbered 1 and the plateau in FIGS. 1-4 is 2. 2 further shows the joint 3 customary in the manufacture. This joint piece 3 is used to attach the rear cap in the ago process. 3-5, the gem strip is symbolized by 4, while the insole bears the reference number 5.
- the upper is denoted by 6 and in FIG. 4 the adhesive layer between insole 5 and upper 6 by 7.
- Fig. 5 shows the presence of the California strip 8 and the seam 9. With 10 there is another Cork sole numbered.
- Fig. 4 shows the groove 11 in which the bread roll 4 and the insole 5 are clamped.
- the turned-over California border is numbered 12 in FIG. 5.
Landscapes
- Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Die Erfindung betrifft die Herstellung von Schuhen.The invention relates to the manufacture of shoes.
In der Veröffentlichung von Eigenrauch, Lehrlingsausbildung, S. 39, wird die Ago-Machart wie folgt beschrieben:
- Brandsohle und Gelenkstück werden unter dem Leisten montiert, der Schaft wird Ubergehohlt und auf der Brandsohle befestigt. Nach dem Zwicken - entweder (mit Täckser) Mackay- oder klebegezwickt - wird der Zwickeinschlag aufgerauht und der Schuh ausgeballt. Die Laufsohle rauht man ebenfalls am Rand auf. Beide aufgerauhten Klebeflächen werden nun mit einem modernen Sohlenkleber vorgestrichen, den man antrocknen lässt. Durch eine Infrarotbestrahlung kann die Trocknung beschleunigt werden. Manche dieser chemischen Klebstoffe reagieren auf die Bestrahlung mit einer verstärkten Klebekraft.
- Insole and joint piece are mounted under the last, the shaft is overhauled and attached to the insole. After the tweaking - either Mackay or tacky (with Täckser) - the gusset is roughened and the shoe is rolled up. The outsole is also roughened on the edge. Both roughened adhesive surfaces are now primed with a modern sole adhesive that is allowed to dry. Drying can be accelerated by infrared radiation. Some of these chemical adhesives react to the radiation with an increased adhesive force.
Anschließend legt man die Laufsohle auf und setzt den Schuh in eine Presse, die die beiden mit Klebstoff versehenen Flächen fest aufeinanderdrückt, so daß der Kleber binden kann.Then you put on the outsole and put the shoe in a press that presses the two adhesive surfaces firmly together so that the adhesive can bind.
Nach dem Pressen erfolgen lediglich noch der Aufbau des Absatzes, das Schnittfräsen und Bimsen sowie die weiteren Ausputzarbeiten.After pressing, only the build-up of the heel, the cutting and pumice as well as the further plastering work.
Der Ago-Schuh ist jedoch nicht ausreichend flexibel im Vorfuß.However, the Ago shoe is not flexible enough in the forefoot.
Nach derselben Veröffentlichung, S. 43 und 45, läuft der Arbeitsvorgang bei der Fertigung des California-Schuhes wie folgt ab:
- Die Brandsohle oder Innensohle wird sauber an den Schaft angenäht. Durch die California-Naht wird dann der Plattformüberzug an Schaft und Innenseite angebracht. Dann schiebt man einen Schraubleisten ein und spannt den Schaft. Keilabsatz und Korkplateau werden unter den Schuh eingeklebt, der Plattformüberzug gestürzt und auf das Plateau klebegezwickt. Der Zwickeinschlag wird aufgerauht, der Zwischenraum ausgeballt. Anschließend wird die Laufsohle aufgeklebt. Der Absatzoberfleck wird ebenfalls nur geklebt. Letzter Arbeitsvorgang: fräsen und polieren. Anschließend wird der Leisten ausgeschraubt, und es folgen die Ausrüstearbeiten.
- The insole or insole is sewn neatly onto the shaft. The platform seam is then attached to the shaft and inside through the California seam. Then you insert a screw bar and tighten the shaft. Wedge heel and cork plateau are glued under the shoe, the platform cover is overturned and pinched onto the plateau. The gusset is roughened, the space is clenched. Then the outsole is glued on. The heel top spot is also only glued. The last step: milling and polishing. The last is then unscrewed and the finishing work follows.
Bei der Herstellung dieser Schuhe ist es wesentlich, daß der Zuschnitt äußerst exakt erfolgt. Der Schaft muß ebenso präzise zusammengenäht werden. Der Zwickeinschlag fehlt, und es gibt keine Möglichkeit, beim Zwicken irgendwelche Unebenheiten im Schaft auszugleichen. Brandsohle und PlattformUberzug müssen ebenso leistengetreu geschnitten sein. Das Brandsohlenmaterial ist vorwiegend aus kaschiertem Stoff. Der Zwickvorgang, der bei anderen Schuharten die gute Paßform und das Aussehen garantiert, fällt fort.When manufacturing these shoes, it is essential that they are cut extremely precisely. The shaft must be sewn together just as precisely. The gusset is missing and there is no way to compensate for any unevenness in the shaft when pinching. Insole and platform cover must also be cut according to performance. The insole material is mainly made of laminated fabric. The pinching process, which guarantees the good fit and appearance of other types of shoes, is no longer necessary.
Das Fehlen des Zwickvorganges ist nicht immer gut, weil das Oberleder nicht genügend gestreckt worden ist und sich dann anschließend beim Tragen ausziehen kann. Der Schuh verliert dann u.U. seine Form und tritt sich breit.The lack of the pinching process is not always good because the upper leather has not been stretched sufficiently and can then undress afterwards when worn. The shoe may then lose its shape and wide.
Schließlich ist durch die DE-OS 27 22 671 ein Verfahren zur Schuhherstellung bekannt, bei dem ein Oberteil derart auf einen Leisten aufgebracht wird, daß der Einschlagrand vom Boden des Leistens aus nach oben absteht, daß auf den Leisten im Inneren des Einschlagrandes eine Innensohle o. dgl. aufgelegt wird, die an ihrer freien Oberfläche wenigstens im Randbereich mit einer trockenen Klebstoffschicht versehen ist, daß der Einschlagrand bezüglich des Bodens des Leistens fortschreitend hochgezogen und nach innen in Anlage an die mit Klebstoff beschichtete Randzone der Innensohle eingeschlagen und glattgestrichen wird, wozu zusammenarbeitende Zug- und Förderrollen vorgesehen sind, welche den Einschlagrand nach oben ziehen und weiter fördern, und eine Streifeneinrichtung, die den gezogenen Rand bei seiner Freigabe von den Förderrollen nach innen gegen den Boden umschlagen, und daß beim Hochziehen des Randes eine gleichförmige dicke Schicht aus flüssigem Latexklebstoff auf die Innenseite des Einschlagrandes aufgebracht wird.Finally, from DE-OS 27 22 671 a method for shoe manufacture is known, in which an upper part is applied to a last in such a way that the wrapping edge protrudes upward from the bottom of the last, that an insole o. On the last inside the wrapping edge . The like. is placed, which is provided on its free surface with a dry adhesive layer at least in the edge area, that the wedge edge is progressively pulled up with respect to the bottom of the last and is turned inwards and in contact with the adhesive-coated edge zone of the insole, for which purpose cooperating pulling and conveying rollers are provided, which pull the impact edge upwards and further convey, and a strip device which, when released from the conveying rollers, turn the drawn edge inward against the ground, and that a uniform thick layer is formed when the edge is pulled up liquid latex adhesive on the inside of the Impact margin is applied.
Dieses Verfahren kann zwar auch bei der Herstellung von California-Schuhen zum Umlegen des Californiastreifens verwendet werden, hat sich jedoch in die Praxis nicht eingeführt, da das Verfahren technisch zu umständlich und aufwendig ist, vor allem deshalb, weit eine gesonderte Maschine erforderlich ist, um das Verfahren ausführen zu können (S. 5, Abs. 2 der DE-OS).Although this method can also be used in the manufacture of California shoes for turning over the California strip, it has not been put into practice because the method is technically too complicated and time-consuming, mainly because a separate machine is required to to be able to carry out the procedure (
Der Erfindung liegt die Aufgabe zugrunde, die Nachteile der bekannten Methoden zu vermeiden und ein Verfahren zur Schuhherstellung zu schaffen, mit dessen Hilfe ein formbeständiger, haltbarer und flexibler Schuh erzeugt werden kann. Diese Aufgabe wird durch die in Anspruch 1 angegebenenen Merkmale gelöst.The invention has for its object to avoid the disadvantages of the known methods and to provide a method for shoe manufacture, with the help of which a dimensionally stable, durable and flexible shoe can be produced. This object is achieved by the features specified in
vorteilhaften Zur weiteren Ausgestaltung dienen die in den Unteransprüchen angegebenen Merkmale.Advantageous The features specified in the subclaims serve for further configuration.
Zur Erläuterung dient die Zeichnung, Es zeigen
- Fig. 1 den Leisten mit passendem Plateau in Seitenansicht
- Fig. 2 den Leisten mit Plateau und ein übliches Gelenkstück, ebenfalls in Seitenansicht
- Fig. 3 einen Schnitt gemäß der Linie A-A in Fig. 1
- Fig. 4 einen Schnitt gemäß der Linie B-B in Fig. 2, wobei der Schaft mit der auf das Plateau aufgezogenen Brandsohle mit Klebstoff verbunden ist.
- Fig. 5 einen Schnitt ebenfalls gemäß der Linie B-B in Fig. 2, wobei jedoch im Unterschied zu Fig. 4 Californiastreifen, Schaftteil, Brandsohle und Gemmstreifen mit einer Naht verbunden sind und der Leisten noch im Schuh verbleibt.
- Fig. 1 the strips with p assendem plateau in side view
- Fig. 2 shows the last with plateau and a common hinge piece, also in side view
- 3 shows a section along line AA in FIG. 1
- Fig. 4 shows a section along the line BB in Fig. 2, wherein the shaft is connected to the insole drawn onto the plateau with adhesive.
- Fig. 5 is a section also along the line BB in Fig. 2, but in contrast to Fig. 4, California stripes, upper part, insole and gem strips are connected with a seam and the last remains in the shoe.
In den Figuren ist der Leisten mit 1 und das Plateau in den Fig. 1 - 4 mit 2 beziffert. Aus Fig. 2 ist weiterhin das fabrikationsübliche GelenkstUck 3 ersichtlich. Dieses Gelenkstück 3 dient zur Befestigung der Hinterkappe im-Ago-Verfahren. In Fig. 3 - 5 ist der Gemmstreifen mit 4 symbolisiert, während die Brandsohle das Bezugszeichen 5 trägt. In Fig. 4 und 5 ist der Schaft mit 6 und in Fig. 4 die Klebschicht zwischen Brandsohle 5 und Schaft 6 mit 7 bezeichnet. Fig. 5 zeigt das Vorhandensein des Californiastreifens 8 und der Naht 9. Mit 10 ist darin noch eine Korksohle beziffert. Fig. 4 gibt die Nut 11 wieder, in der der Semmstreifen 4 und die Brandsohle 5 festgeklemmt werden. Mit 12 ist der umgeschlagene Californiarand in Fig. 5 beziffert.In the figures, the bar is numbered 1 and the plateau in FIGS. 1-4 is 2. 2 further shows the joint 3 customary in the manufacture. This joint piece 3 is used to attach the rear cap in the ago process. 3-5, the gem strip is symbolized by 4, while the insole bears the
Claims (5)
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
AT86108879T ATE83360T1 (en) | 1985-07-09 | 1986-06-30 | PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURE OF SHOES. |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
DE3524442 | 1985-07-09 | ||
DE3524442 | 1985-07-09 |
Publications (3)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0208223A2 true EP0208223A2 (en) | 1987-01-14 |
EP0208223A3 EP0208223A3 (en) | 1989-04-19 |
EP0208223B1 EP0208223B1 (en) | 1992-12-16 |
Family
ID=6275290
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP86108879A Expired - Lifetime EP0208223B1 (en) | 1985-07-09 | 1986-06-30 | Shoe-making method |
Country Status (3)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP0208223B1 (en) |
AT (1) | ATE83360T1 (en) |
DE (1) | DE3687291D1 (en) |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP1591032A1 (en) * | 2004-04-28 | 2005-11-02 | Nando Muzi S.R.L. | Footwear manufacturing process |
Citations (9)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US2332019A (en) * | 1942-10-15 | 1943-10-19 | United Shoe Machinery Corp | Shoemaking apparatus |
US2404586A (en) * | 1944-12-09 | 1946-07-23 | Maling Roy | Method of making footwear |
US2427179A (en) * | 1944-11-25 | 1947-09-09 | Fred L Ayers | Shoe and method of making the same |
FR980176A (en) * | 1949-02-05 | 1951-05-09 | Paul Arnoux Ets | Improvement in the so-called "slip lasting" assembly in the manufacture of leather shoes |
US2596029A (en) * | 1945-10-08 | 1952-05-06 | Boyd Welsh Inc | Method of making shoes having a wrapper strip |
DE1709848U (en) * | 1954-05-13 | 1955-11-03 | Walter Tron A G | SHOE. |
US3537119A (en) * | 1969-08-19 | 1970-11-03 | Scoa Ind Inc | Jack for hand-sewn shoes |
DE2722671A1 (en) * | 1976-06-01 | 1977-12-22 | Compo Ind Inc | PROCESS FOR SHOE MANUFACTURING |
FR2555025A1 (en) * | 1983-11-18 | 1985-05-24 | Leriche Rene | Method for manufacturing articles of footwear such as mules, and the articles of footwear obtained by implementing the method |
-
1986
- 1986-06-30 EP EP86108879A patent/EP0208223B1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1986-06-30 AT AT86108879T patent/ATE83360T1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1986-06-30 DE DE8686108879T patent/DE3687291D1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Patent Citations (9)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US2332019A (en) * | 1942-10-15 | 1943-10-19 | United Shoe Machinery Corp | Shoemaking apparatus |
US2427179A (en) * | 1944-11-25 | 1947-09-09 | Fred L Ayers | Shoe and method of making the same |
US2404586A (en) * | 1944-12-09 | 1946-07-23 | Maling Roy | Method of making footwear |
US2596029A (en) * | 1945-10-08 | 1952-05-06 | Boyd Welsh Inc | Method of making shoes having a wrapper strip |
FR980176A (en) * | 1949-02-05 | 1951-05-09 | Paul Arnoux Ets | Improvement in the so-called "slip lasting" assembly in the manufacture of leather shoes |
DE1709848U (en) * | 1954-05-13 | 1955-11-03 | Walter Tron A G | SHOE. |
US3537119A (en) * | 1969-08-19 | 1970-11-03 | Scoa Ind Inc | Jack for hand-sewn shoes |
DE2722671A1 (en) * | 1976-06-01 | 1977-12-22 | Compo Ind Inc | PROCESS FOR SHOE MANUFACTURING |
FR2555025A1 (en) * | 1983-11-18 | 1985-05-24 | Leriche Rene | Method for manufacturing articles of footwear such as mules, and the articles of footwear obtained by implementing the method |
Non-Patent Citations (2)
Title |
---|
EIGENRAUCH: "Lehrlingausbildung", Seiten 39-45: "Fabrikation: F8, F9". * |
Mechanical Engineering, Band 106, Nr. 9, September 1984, Seiten 66-75; New York, US; T. BAER: "Designing for the long run". * |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP1591032A1 (en) * | 2004-04-28 | 2005-11-02 | Nando Muzi S.R.L. | Footwear manufacturing process |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
DE3687291D1 (en) | 1993-01-28 |
ATE83360T1 (en) | 1993-01-15 |
EP0208223B1 (en) | 1992-12-16 |
EP0208223A3 (en) | 1989-04-19 |
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