EP0178277A2 - Steindübelähnliche Ankervorrichtung - Google Patents

Steindübelähnliche Ankervorrichtung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0178277A2
EP0178277A2 EP85850318A EP85850318A EP0178277A2 EP 0178277 A2 EP0178277 A2 EP 0178277A2 EP 85850318 A EP85850318 A EP 85850318A EP 85850318 A EP85850318 A EP 85850318A EP 0178277 A2 EP0178277 A2 EP 0178277A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
crack
wedge
rock
tip
twisted
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP85850318A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0178277A3 (en
EP0178277B1 (de
Inventor
Erik Marcus Lindblom
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to AT85850318T priority Critical patent/ATE41313T1/de
Publication of EP0178277A2 publication Critical patent/EP0178277A2/de
Publication of EP0178277A3 publication Critical patent/EP0178277A3/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0178277B1 publication Critical patent/EP0178277B1/de
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons
    • A63B29/027—Pitons

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a fastener device which functions as a rock dowel, and more specifically to a fastener device which can be used for rock climbing, mooring boats, and like purposes, and which comprises a first and a second element which are integrated one with the other.
  • the first element has the form of a wedge for insertion, for example, into a crack in rock face, and the second element forms an attachment for a rope, chain or like line.
  • the first element has the form of a flat wedge intended for insertion into a crack in the rock face, or some other form of opening in some other surface.
  • This known fastening device having the planar wedge-shaped first element, is planar and tapers in the direction of its long axis and in relation to a central plane passing through the first element adjacent the second element.
  • the wedge-shaped first element also decreases in width towards its free end.
  • wedges of the aforesaid nature may either have plane-parallel side surfaces or have a small wedge angle. Experience has shown that the wedge angle should be smaller than 5 .
  • the wedge portion of these known fastener devices is also relatively long in relation to its cross-section, normally ratios in this regard being from 5 to 15/cm.
  • Fastener devices of the aforesaid kind are known to the art in which the first element has a longitudinal extension in a first plane which is rotated somewhat in relation to a second plane passing centrally through the second element.
  • wedge-shaped implements for example for splitting logs, in which the wedge part has the form of a single member and the wedge tip or point is turned 10 in relation to a geometric central plane.
  • Such wedges have a large hammering or anvil surface at one end thereof and,the wedge angle is quite large, for example larger than 10 but smaller than 15 .
  • Such wedges are practically totally inelastic.
  • attachment of the device via the first element is effected exclusively through direct counter-directional clamping forces, in which a planar wedge surface is pressed against one wall of the crack, and the opposite planar wedge surface is pressed against the opposite wall of the crack. Any deformation which might occur is caused through the action of counter-directed forces acting on the same part or point on the wedge.
  • the crack into which it is driven should have a width which more or less equals the maximum width of the wedge or which is slightly smaller than said width, and that the crack should be quite deep and preferably have a shape which conforms to the shape of the wedge.
  • Another technical problem resides in the provision of such a fastener device so formed as to provide a reliable grip through the action of a large, substantially calculatable force, by observing material deformation caused by forces over and above the elastic deformation limit of the material and lying within the plastic deformation range.
  • a further qualified technical problem is one of providing a fastener device of the kind intended for rock climbing, mooring boats to rock surfaces etc., with which the wedge-like first element of the device when inserted, for example, into a crack in a rocksurface strives to engage the crack walls and to conform to the contours of the crack, such as provide good contact between diametrically opposed and outwardly facing edge parts of the first element and the two engaging wall surfaces of the crack.
  • Still a further technical problem is one of providing such a fastener device with which the diametrically opposed, outwardly facing edge parts of the first element co-acting with opposite walls of a crack can be brought into positive and reliable engagement therewith and readily released therefrom in a simple manner.
  • Another technical problem is one of providing means whereby the aforesaid co-action between the wedge-like first element of the device and the walls of a crack can be effected with the aid of torque or torsional forces acting in the material of the wedge-like element, between two outwardly facing and mutually opposite edge parts thereof, so that the wedge will grip firmly in the crack through the agency of such internal forces as those occurring with plastic deformation.
  • Another technical problem is one of providing such a fastener device which with the aid of simple means can be made to conform more readily to the contours of a crack in a rock surface, such that the configuration of the crack determines the size of the contact surface formed between the two mutually opposed and outwardly facing edge parts, when the pressure forces taken-up shall function as torque on the wedge.
  • the present invention relates to a fastener device which functions as a rock dowel and which can be used for rock climbing, mooring boats to rock surfaces, etc., which device includes a wedge-shaped first element for co-action with the walls of a crack in a rock surface, and a second element which is integrated with the first element and which forms an attachment for a rope, chain or the like.
  • the first element is twisted in its longitudinal direction in relation to a centre plane extending through said first element from a location adjacent the second element.
  • the first element has a pointed end which can be turned to an angle of at least 30° in relation to the centre plane. According to a further development this pointed end may be rotated through at most 360 in relation to said central plane. In this regard, the pointed end or tip of the first element may be given an angle relative to said central plane of between 45 and 180 , preferably between 60 and 120°.
  • the first element suitably comprises a material which when brought into gripping engagement with the walls of a crack is subjected at least partially to plastic deformation.
  • the wedge-like first element of the device may have a form such that it only decreases slightly in thickness towards its pointed end, and if desired also slightly in width.
  • the second element has a hardness which is greater than that of the first element.
  • the twist suitably being located at a location in the close vicinity of the second element.
  • a fastener device constructed in accordance with the invention reside in the possibility of inserting the device into a crack in a rock surface, or like surface, and to obtain a firm and reliable grip therein even when the width of the crack exceeds the width of the fastener device, and also in the fact that the securing or fastening forces generated are substantially in the form of torque acting on said device, thereby to facilitate entry of the device into the crack and reliable retention of the device therein.
  • the securing or gripping forces can be readily regulated to a desired level, and the device can be readily removed from the crack with the aid of simple means.
  • FIG. 1 there is illustrated in perspective a fastener device 1 which functions as a rock dowel for use in rock climbing and which can also be driven into rock surfaces in waterside locations to facilitate the mooring of boats.
  • the dowel or device 1 comprises a first element and a second element which is integrated with the first element.
  • the first element 2, which has a wedge-like configuration is intended to grip against the walls of a crack 3 in a rock surface 4 or like surface.
  • the second element 5 forms an attachment means for a rope, chain or like line. To this end, the second element 5 is provided with a hole 6 in which a ring 7 is held.
  • a line 8 Attached to the ring is a line 8, which may either be tied to a climber or to part of a watercraft, depending on the use to which the device is put.
  • the line 8 can be caused to extended substantially horizontally.
  • first element 2 need not be constructed to exert a wedge-action along the whole of its length.
  • the wedging-form of the first element 2 only extends a short distance from the tip or point 11 of said element along towards the second element 5, with the remainder of the first element being of more or less right-angled constant cross-section therealong.
  • the wedge-angle from the region 12, adjacent the second element 5, to the tip or point 11 should be less than 5°, preferably between 3° and 4°.
  • a device in which the wedge form of the first element 2 extends along roughly 25% of the total length of said element, with the remainder of the element having a constant cross-section, has been found particularly suitable.
  • the first element 2 may suitably be made of a material which, with a cross-sectional size of 6x18 mm and a length of 25 mm, will result in the plastic deformation of the element at a torque of 120 Nm. In this respect, variations between 80 and 200 Nm can be accepted.
  • the first element 2 is twisted along its length in relation to a central plane 10 extending along the first element from the juncture 12 of its connection with the second element 5, so that one part of the first element is rotated relative to an adjacent part.
  • the top or point 11 of the first element 2 is rotated through an angle "a" in relation to the central plane 10 of at least 30°.
  • the tip 11 may be rotated relative to plane 10 through any angle, up to 360 .
  • the angle "a” lies between 45 0 and 180°, and then most suitably between 60 0 and 120°.
  • the tip 11 has been rotated through 90 0 in relation to the central plane 10.
  • the first element 2 is made from a material such that when brought into gripping action with the mutually facing wall portions 3a and 3b of the crack 3, the element can be subjected to plastic deformation, which means that subsequent to driving the first element 2 into the crack 3 (hammering the device), the said element will be permanently deformed when removing the device from the crack 3. It is especially proposed that the device is driven into the crack 3 with such force and in such a manner that the element 2 does in fact become deformed plastically, since such plastic deformation signifies that the material in the first element 2 is used to a maximum in creating those torsional forces which shall hold the first element 2 firmly in the crack 3.
  • the gripping forces exerted by the first element 2 on the crack walls 3a and 3b act through the diametrically opposed edges 13 and 14, in combination with the fact that one edge 13 or 14 forms an engagement point or edge surfaces against a respective wall-portion of the crack.
  • the first element 2 of the device has a thickness which narrows only slightly towards the tip or point 11 of said element.
  • the first element 2 may also be shaped so as to present a width which decreases, albeit but slightly, towards said tip or point 11, as illustrated particularly in Figure 3.
  • the second element 5 of the fastener device 1 may be given a hardness which is greater than the hardness of the first element 2, since the first element 2 shall be capable of being plastically deformed, whereas the second element 5 must be capable of withstanding the impact forces to which it is subjected when driving the first element 2 into the crack 3, and of withstanding the load on the line 8 without being deformed.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Dowels (AREA)
  • Clamps And Clips (AREA)
  • Joining Of Building Structures In Genera (AREA)
EP85850318A 1984-10-09 1985-10-09 Steindübelähnliche Ankervorrichtung Expired EP0178277B1 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT85850318T ATE41313T1 (de) 1984-10-09 1985-10-09 Steinduebelaehnliche ankervorrichtung.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
SE8405038A SE454051B (sv) 1984-10-09 1984-10-09 Som bergdubb tjenande fasthallningsorgan
SE8405038 1984-10-09

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0178277A2 true EP0178277A2 (de) 1986-04-16
EP0178277A3 EP0178277A3 (en) 1987-04-15
EP0178277B1 EP0178277B1 (de) 1989-03-15

Family

ID=20357281

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP85850318A Expired EP0178277B1 (de) 1984-10-09 1985-10-09 Steindübelähnliche Ankervorrichtung

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0178277B1 (de)
AT (1) ATE41313T1 (de)
DE (1) DE3568703D1 (de)
SE (1) SE454051B (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1672229A1 (de) * 2004-12-15 2006-06-21 Sprl B.H.G. Eurogyp Schraube mit perforiertem Kopf für Deckenabhängungen und andere

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE105832C (de) *
FR900663A (fr) * 1943-08-24 1945-07-05 Perfectionnement aux pitons pour ascensions en montagne
CH253276A (de) * 1946-09-02 1948-02-29 Grob Ernst Mauerhaken.
US3025853A (en) * 1958-07-07 1962-03-20 Christopher A Mason Fixation device for fractured femur
DK55377A (da) * 1976-12-03 1978-06-04 Hoechst Ag Polyoxygenerede labdan-derivater og fremgangsmaade til disses fremstilling

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE105832C (de) *
FR900663A (fr) * 1943-08-24 1945-07-05 Perfectionnement aux pitons pour ascensions en montagne
CH253276A (de) * 1946-09-02 1948-02-29 Grob Ernst Mauerhaken.
US3025853A (en) * 1958-07-07 1962-03-20 Christopher A Mason Fixation device for fractured femur
DK55377A (da) * 1976-12-03 1978-06-04 Hoechst Ag Polyoxygenerede labdan-derivater og fremgangsmaade til disses fremstilling

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1672229A1 (de) * 2004-12-15 2006-06-21 Sprl B.H.G. Eurogyp Schraube mit perforiertem Kopf für Deckenabhängungen und andere

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ATE41313T1 (de) 1989-04-15
SE454051B (sv) 1988-03-28
SE8405038L (sv) 1986-04-10
EP0178277A3 (en) 1987-04-15
DE3568703D1 (en) 1989-04-20
SE8405038D0 (sv) 1984-10-09
EP0178277B1 (de) 1989-03-15

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