EP0047232A2 - Klemmvorrichtung zum Klettern - Google Patents

Klemmvorrichtung zum Klettern Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0047232A2
EP0047232A2 EP81850145A EP81850145A EP0047232A2 EP 0047232 A2 EP0047232 A2 EP 0047232A2 EP 81850145 A EP81850145 A EP 81850145A EP 81850145 A EP81850145 A EP 81850145A EP 0047232 A2 EP0047232 A2 EP 0047232A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
wedges
wedge
rods
anchoring device
rod
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP81850145A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0047232A3 (en
EP0047232B1 (de
Inventor
Ingemar Mellgard
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Salewa Sportgeraete GmbH
Original Assignee
Salewa Sportgeraete GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Salewa Sportgeraete GmbH filed Critical Salewa Sportgeraete GmbH
Priority to AT81850145T priority Critical patent/ATE20642T1/de
Publication of EP0047232A2 publication Critical patent/EP0047232A2/de
Publication of EP0047232A3 publication Critical patent/EP0047232A3/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0047232B1 publication Critical patent/EP0047232B1/de
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons
    • A63B29/024—Climbing chocks

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a device for releasable anchoring in slots having opposite walls, in particular slots having essentially parallel walls.
  • the device can be attached or released with one hand in a simple and rapid way. It is primarily intended for use in mountain climbing to obtain an anchor in rock cracks.
  • US Patent No 4 184 657 discloses an anchoring device for mountain climbers which can be used also in parallel-sided slots and can be attached or released with one hand.
  • the device is based on camming action and has become extremely popular although it is mechanically complicated, heavy and very expensive to produce.
  • An additional disadvantage is that it can not be made for use in cracks being more narrow than about 2 cm.
  • French Patent Application No 78 31275 there is suggested a device which is also based on the idea of opposite wedges, preferably three wedges having different shape and size.
  • the device is said to be useful for anchoring in open slots which are wider at the surface, that is non-parallel slots.
  • the device cosists of two or more entirely separate parts which easily can be lost, and the device is presumably difficult or impossible to handle with one hand. It has not been commercially produced.
  • the object of the present invention is to bring forward a device which does not possess the disadvantages and limitations mentioned in the foregoing.
  • This object has been attained by a device which has the characterizing features given in the appended claims.
  • According to the invention there is thus obtained a device which can be handled with one hand and stays safely in place, and which can be made so that a single device suits a very wide range of different slot-sizes including parallel-sided slots and slots being less wide than 2 cm.
  • the device comprises only a few parts and is inexpensive to produce.
  • the invention will in the following be explained in detail with reference to some embodiments shown in the annexed drawings wherein fig. 1 illustrates one particular embodiment of the invention, and fig. 2-5 illustrate various types of wedges which can be used in the device according to the invention.
  • the wedge-shaped member 1 to the left in fig. 1 is in the following denoted “loading wedge”, because it is intended to support an outer load (e.g a climber) which is attached to the attachment eye 3.
  • the wedge-shaped member 2 to the right is denoted “locking wedge”, because it is intended to lock the loading wedge in the desired fixed position by friction against the slot wall.
  • the coefficient of friction no should be as low as possible and the coefficient of friction n should.be as high as possible, in order to obtain a safe lock.
  • the coefficient of friction n may be about 0.5 or more, which means that the angle v has to be less than c:a 25°.
  • the angle v should preferably be between 8-14 0 .
  • the friction between the loading wedge and the wall of the slot surprisingly has no influence on the lock in parallel-sided slots. However, it has been found that if this friction is low then the wedges will be subjected to strong transverse compressive forces which can cause deformation of the wedges or dangerously expand a crack in bad rock.
  • the loading wedge in fig. 1 is connected with an attachment eye 3 via a first rod 4.
  • This rod should be rather long, and preferably between 15-30 cm (including the length of the attachment eye), so that the wedges if desired can be guided deeply into a slot.
  • the rod 4 should be flexible but sufficiently stiff that one without difficulty can guide the wedges to the desired position even when the device is only held closely to the attachment eye.
  • the rod. may suitably consist of a stiff steel cable, the one end of which has been formed to an attachment eye 3 to which the load can be applied with the aid of a carabiner or similar connecting means.
  • the rod 4 is surrounded by a spring member 5, illustrated by a coil-spring in fig. 1.
  • the one end of the spring is mounted close to the attachment eye and the other end is mounted to a second rod 6.
  • the other end of this rod is mounted to the lock-, ing wedge.
  • the rod 6 runs through a guide eye 7 which is mounted to the rod 4.
  • the rod 6 is flexible and resilient so that the resilience and the guide eye holds the locking wedge in direct contact with the loading wedge side by side.
  • the purpose of the spring member 5 is to push the locking wedge upwards relative to the loading wedge, so that the wedges expand and stay in the place where they have been positioned even when no outer load is attached to the attachment eye 3.
  • the load When the device is to be released from the slot, the load must first be removed whereupon the spring 5 is compressed with hand power, preferably by inserting one's thumb in the attachment eye 3 and then gripping with the fingers on the rod 6 between the spring and the locking wedge. This operation is facilitated if a special finger hold, shown as a circular hollow plate 8 in fig. 1, is mounted on the rod 6.
  • a similar compression of the spring is usually necessary also when the device is inserted in a slot.
  • a stop lug 9 is mounted on the rod 4 to prevent the finger grip and thus, indirectly, the locking wedge from being displaced beyond a pre-selected end position. This end position is selected so that the locking wedge does not slide off the loading wedge or ceases to cooperate effectively with same.
  • the rod 6 will only be subjected to a minor compressive strain from the spring, and may thus be made thinner than the rod 4 and may be made of elastic materials such as plastics or rubber with low tensile strength.
  • the fastening of the rod 6 in the locking wedge may for example be made by simple gluing in a hole which has been drilled in the locking wedge.
  • the fastening of the rod 4 in the loading wedge must however be performed according to such known methods which give a more strong connection.
  • the rod 4 and the attachment eye 3 should in fact be able to withstand forces of between 4000- 40 000 Newton when the device is used in mountain climbing.
  • the loading wedge and the locking wedge must also withstand compressive forces of the order of 10 4 Newton, and are preferably made of metals such as steel, titanium, plain bearing metal, or aluminium alloys. In order to obtain a low coefficient of friction n between the common contact surface of the loading wedge and the locking wedge, these surfaces may be treated by for example honing, polishing, teflon coating or other permanent or temporary lubricant coating.
  • the anchoring device according to the invention should preferably be designed so that one single device can be made to fasten in the widest possible range of different slot-widths.
  • it is suitable to have two load-bearing rods mounted on the loading wedge on each side of the same, instead of having a single centrally mounted rod. It is then possible to displace the lower edge of the locking wedge close to the opposite wall of the slot, without interfering with a rod mounted on the loading wedge, which means that the device can be used in more narrow slots than would otherwise be possible.
  • Fig. 2 illustrates a suitable configuration of a loading wedge and a locking wedge to achieve this. An additional advantage with this configuration is that the locking wedge slides in a groove in the loading wedge and is thus stabilized sideways.
  • fig. 3 there is illustrated another suitable configuration of a loading wedge and a locking wedge, wherein the common contact surface of the wedges have the shape of a section of a circular cylinder surface.
  • Such an embodiment is advantageous because the locking wedge and the loading wedge will be allowed to turn relative each other, which giv*es a more stable fit-,up in slots having walls which are not exactly parallel in a cross--section being transverse to the general direction of the load, that is so-called flared slots.
  • the convex side of the cylindrical surface is a part of the loading wedge and the concave side of the surface.is a part of the locking wedge. It is of course possible to make it quite the reverse.
  • a loading wedge and locking wedge having a common contact surface which consists of two planes forming a small angle between them. Furthermore, the outer surfaces of the wedges are convex and somewhat unsymmetrical, which is advantageous when using the device in non-parallel slots.
  • FIG. 5 there is illustrated an embodiment of a loading wedge and locking wedge which is especially suitable when making a device according to the invention which is to be used in very narrow (e.g. 0.3 - 1.0 cm ) vertical slots, in particular parallel slots or slots which slightly open up sideways.
  • the loading wedge has a single load-bearing rod which is rigidly mounted on one side of the loading wedge, the rod and the wedge in fact being made in a single piece of metal. Also the locking wedge and corresponding rod is made in one piece.
  • the wedges are further distinguished by the fact that their width, height and thickness is diminished in a direction away from the attachment points of the rods in the wedges. This is advantageous because the device can then be used in slots of very different widths. Only the outer narrow section of the wedges is inserted in slots being correspondingly narrow.
  • the coil-spring 5 may for example be substituted with an elastic cord, the one end of which is mounted on the rod 4 close to the loading wedge, and the other end being mounted on the rod 6 close to the finger grip 8.
  • the guide member 7 can be substituted with two or more guide members being attached to the cord and being slidable along the rods 4 and 6.
  • the coil-spring 5 which exerts pressure may be substituted with a coil-spring which resists expansion and is fixedly mounted on the rod 4 closer to the loading wedge.
  • the rod 6 and the finger grip is then mounted at the lower end of the coil-spring, and the rod 6 may run inside the coil-spring so that the spring acts as a guide member for the rods.
  • a further variation comprises joining the guide member 7 with the stop-lug 9 to one single unit.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Clamps And Clips (AREA)
EP19810850145 1980-09-03 1981-09-02 Klemmvorrichtung zum Klettern Expired EP0047232B1 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT81850145T ATE20642T1 (de) 1980-09-03 1981-09-02 Klemmvorrichtung zum klettern.

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
SE8006154 1980-09-03
SE8006154 1980-09-03
SE8101653 1981-03-16
SE8101653 1981-03-16

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0047232A2 true EP0047232A2 (de) 1982-03-10
EP0047232A3 EP0047232A3 (en) 1982-03-24
EP0047232B1 EP0047232B1 (de) 1986-07-09

Family

ID=26657660

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19810850145 Expired EP0047232B1 (de) 1980-09-03 1981-09-02 Klemmvorrichtung zum Klettern

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0047232B1 (de)
DE (1) DE3174914D1 (de)

Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4572464A (en) * 1983-10-17 1986-02-25 Phillips Douglas D Change-configuration climbing chock
GB2175219A (en) * 1985-05-17 1986-11-26 Stefan Engers Climbing aid in particular for mountaineers
US4643377A (en) * 1985-09-26 1987-02-17 Tony Christianson Mechanically expanding climbing aid
US4643378A (en) * 1985-03-18 1987-02-17 Karl Guthrie Roller-chock climbing aid
US4712754A (en) * 1986-07-07 1987-12-15 Brodie Malcolm J Rock climbing anchor
US4715568A (en) * 1985-09-20 1987-12-29 David A. Hornbeck Expansible piton
US4834327A (en) * 1987-12-24 1989-05-30 Byrne Steve J Self-adjusting climbing chock
FR2756745A1 (fr) * 1996-12-09 1998-06-12 Benhamou Clement Coinceur, notamment pour alpiniste
FR2864791A1 (fr) * 2004-01-06 2005-07-08 Zedel Coinceur mecanique a cames pour l'escalade et l'alpinisme

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3877679A (en) * 1973-08-16 1975-04-15 Lowe Alpine Systems Inc Anchor device for mountain climbers
US3903785A (en) * 1974-06-24 1975-09-09 Jr William Pepper Rock climbing anchor
FR2396562A1 (fr) * 1977-07-05 1979-02-02 Bellefon Patrice De Assemblage de coins d'alpinisme
FR2440206A1 (fr) * 1978-10-30 1980-05-30 Bibollet Jean Claude Dispositif d'ancrage en rocher

Cited By (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4572464A (en) * 1983-10-17 1986-02-25 Phillips Douglas D Change-configuration climbing chock
US4643378A (en) * 1985-03-18 1987-02-17 Karl Guthrie Roller-chock climbing aid
EP0195654A3 (en) * 1985-03-18 1987-10-28 Karl Guthrie Roller-chock climbing aid
GB2175219A (en) * 1985-05-17 1986-11-26 Stefan Engers Climbing aid in particular for mountaineers
GB2175219B (en) * 1985-05-17 1989-07-05 Stefan Engers Climbing aid in particular for mountaineers
US4715568A (en) * 1985-09-20 1987-12-29 David A. Hornbeck Expansible piton
US4643377A (en) * 1985-09-26 1987-02-17 Tony Christianson Mechanically expanding climbing aid
US4712754A (en) * 1986-07-07 1987-12-15 Brodie Malcolm J Rock climbing anchor
US4834327A (en) * 1987-12-24 1989-05-30 Byrne Steve J Self-adjusting climbing chock
EP0323391A3 (en) * 1987-12-24 1989-12-27 Steve J. Byrne Self adjusting climbing chock
FR2756745A1 (fr) * 1996-12-09 1998-06-12 Benhamou Clement Coinceur, notamment pour alpiniste
FR2864791A1 (fr) * 2004-01-06 2005-07-08 Zedel Coinceur mecanique a cames pour l'escalade et l'alpinisme
US7140583B2 (en) 2004-01-06 2006-11-28 Zedel Mechanical chock with cams for climbing and mountaineering

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE3174914D1 (en) 1986-08-14
EP0047232A3 (en) 1982-03-24
EP0047232B1 (de) 1986-07-09

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