EA040528B1 - HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS - Google Patents

Description

Technical field

The present invention relates to a method for protecting hair, preferably the intrinsic protein of the hair, from damage by applying a hair treatment composition containing a lactone, a disaccharide, an inorganic salt, and an organic acid, or a salt thereof, before the damaging effect; and to the use of said hair protection compositions.

State of the art

The consumer regularly subjects their hair to intensive treatments and daily care and styling procedures to give the hair the desired appearance. The actions taken by the consumer change the chemical composition of the keratin protein of the hair, resulting in micro- and macrostructural changes, which in turn change the physical properties of the hair: the consequences of such changes are usually perceived by the consumer as damage. In addition, this problem is exacerbated by daily exposure to environmental factors.

Combing hair with combs and brushes leads to mechanical abrasion of the hair cuticle, which makes it rougher and worsens frictional properties. Hair lightening, such as bleaching and coloring, usually involves an oxidative step to break down melanin and create new hair color, but such processes also oxidize hair protein and endogenous lipids. These reactions change the number and type of covalent and non-covalent bonds within the hair and affect the thermal stability and mechanical properties of the hair. The intrinsic protein of damaged hair generally has a lower denaturation temperature than that of unexposed natural hair.

Various organic molecules and their combinations have been proposed for the treatment of damaged hair.

WO 2004054526 describes hair treatment compositions for the care and repair of damaged hair and for improving hair manageability, containing a disaccharide (in particular trehalose).

WO 2004054525 describes hair treatment compositions for the care and repair of damaged hair and for improving hair manageability, containing a disaccharide (in particular trehalose) and a diol (in particular 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol).

WO 2009040240 describes hair treatment compositions containing lactone and a disaccharide for the care of dry, damaged and/or unruly hair.

European patent application EP 15169037.7, as yet unpublished, in the name of the present applicant proposes the use of a hair treatment composition containing a lactone, a disaccharide, an inorganic salt and an organic acid or salt thereof, with a pH of 3 to 6.5, for treating hair to increase temperature denaturation of the internal protein of the hair.

Various low molecular weight compounds have also been used to protect hair from damaging effects due to chemical treatment.

Protein hydrolysates were used to protect hair from chemical treatment. For example, Roddick Lanzilotta et al. pre-treated with a protein hydrolyzate to reduce damage caused by oxidative treatments (permanent dyes and brighteners). The authors claim that these proteins act as sacrificial molecules, protecting the hair protein from oxidative damage (Roddick-Lanzilotta et al., J. Cosmet. Sci. 58 (July/August), 405-411 (2007)).

Antioxidants have also been used to protect hair from free radical damage. For example, Meinert et al. have investigated the effect of commercially available antioxidants on the sunscreen properties of hair care products (Meinert et al., J. Cosmet. Sci. 55 Suppl:S105-12 (2004)).

Despite the solutions known in the art, there remains a need for better protection of hair from damage. Protection differs from recovery in that it helps prevent damage from occurring. Repair is necessary for hair that is already damaged, and repair treatments are usually applied to hair after the hair has been damaged. On the contrary, protection is necessary before damaging the hair, thus reducing or preventing damage to the hair. Accordingly, the influence of the damaging effect is reduced.

In the present invention, it has been found that hair can be protected from damage by applying a hair treatment composition containing a lactone, a disaccharide, an inorganic salt, and an organic acid or a salt thereof, where said composition has a pH of 3 to 6.5, before the damaging effect.

A positive effect can be observed both on hair that has been previously damaged and on natural hair that has not been exposed.

Brief description of the invention

According to the first aspect, there is provided a method for protecting hair from damage, comprising the step of applying to the hair before the damaging effect a hair treatment composition containing a lactone, a disaccharide, an inorganic salt, and an organic acid or salt thereof, wherein the pH of said composition is from 3 to 6 ,5.

According to a second aspect of the present invention, there is provided the use of a hair treatment composition containing a lactone, a disaccharide, an inorganic salt, and an organic acid or salt thereof, wherein said composition has a pH of 3 to 6.5, to protect hair from damage.

Hair damage can be measured in many different ways. The present invention is directed to protecting the structural integrity of hair coat proteins, which can be determined using differential scanning calorimetry, mechanical testing of an individual hair, and a variety of other methods. The protection according to the first and second aspects is directed to the hair protein, preferably the intrinsic hair protein.

The composition for use in the present invention is preferably applied to the hair repeatedly to provide an incremental increase in protein protection.

In the method according to the present invention, the step of applying to the hair a hair treatment composition containing a lactone, a disaccharide, an inorganic salt and an organic acid or a salt thereof with a pH of 3 to 6.5 is carried out repeatedly, preferably 2 to 50 times, more preferably 5 times. up to 30 times, most preferably 10 to 20 times.

Hair.

The hair may be unexposed natural hair or damaged hair.

Damage can be caused by mechanical stress such as combing and brushing hair, chemical stress, heat, and environmental stress. Chemical treatment includes treatments including an oxidative step, such as hair lightening such as bleaching and dyeing. The type of damage is preferably selected from hair bleaching, chemical hair straightening, hair coloring, heat styling, and combinations thereof. Most preferably the hair is bleached, more preferably repeatedly bleached.

Detailed description of the invention

Lactones.

The composition for use in the present invention contains a lactone. Examples of suitable lactones include:

(a) Aldonic acid lactones.

Aldonic acids are polyhydroxy acids resulting from the oxidation of the aldehyde group of an aldose to a carboxylic acid group, which acid may be represented by the following general formula:

where R is H or an alkyl group (usually H) and n is an integer from 1 to 6.

Aldonic acids form intramolecular lactones by removing 1 mol of water between the carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group.

The following are typical aldonic acid lactones:

2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid lactones (glyceric acid lactone);

2,3,4-trihydroxybutanoic acid lactones (stereoisomers: erythronolactone, threonolactone);

2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxypentanoic acid lactones (stereoisomers: ribonolactone, arabinolactone, xylonolactone, lixonolactone);

lactones of 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanoic acid (stereoisomers: allonolactone, altronolactone, gluconolactone, mannolactone, gulonolactone, idonolactone, galactonolactone, talonolactone) and lactones of 2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydroxyheptanoic acid (stereoisomers : alloheptonolactone, altrogeptonolactone, glucoheptonolactone, mannoheptonolactone, hulogeptonolactone, idoheptonolactone, galactoheptonolactone, thalogeptonolactone).

(b) Aldaric acid lactones.

Aldaric acids are polyhydroxydicarboxylic acids derived from aldose by oxidation of both terminal carbons to carboxyl groups, said acid being represented by the following general formula:

HOOC(CHOH)pCH(OH)COOH where n is an integer from 1 to 4.

Aldaric acids form intramolecular lactones by removing 1 mole of water between one carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group.

The following are typical aldaric acid lactones:

2,3-dihydroxybutane-1,4-dicarboxylic acid lactones;

2,3,4-trihydroxypentane-1,5-dicarboxylic acid lactones (stereoisomers: ribarolactone, arabarolactone, xylarolactone, lixarolactone);

2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexane-1,6-dicarboxylic acid lactones (alllarolactone, altrarolactone,

- 2 040528 glucarolactone, mannarolactone, gularic acid and gularolactone, idarolactone, galactarolactone, talarolactone);

lactones of 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyheptane-1,7-dicarboxylic acid (stereoisomers: alloheptarolactone, altrogeptarolactone, glucoheptarolactone, mannoheptarolactone, gulogeptarolactone, idoheptarolactone, galactoheptarolactone, taloheptarolactone).

(c) Alduronic acids.

Alduronic acids are polyhydroxy acids resulting from the oxidation of the alcohol group of an aldose to a carboxylic acid group and can be represented by the following general formula:

HOOC(CHOH)pCH(OH)CHO where n is an integer from 1 to 4.

Many alduronic acids form intramolecular lactones by removing 1 mol of water between the carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group.

The following are typical alduronic acid lactones:

riburonolactone; araburonolactone; xyluronolactone; lixuronolactone; alluronolactone; altruronolactone; glucuronolactone; mannuronolactone; guluronolactone; iduronolactone; galacturonolactone; taluronolactone; allohepturonolactone; altrogepturonolactone; glucohepturonolactone; mannohepturonolactone; gulogepturonolactone; idogepturonolactone; galactohepturonolactone and talohepturonolactone.

(d) Aldobionic acids.

Aldobionic acids are also known as bionic acids and usually contain a single monosaccharide chemically ester-linked to an aldonic acid. Aldobionic acids can also be described as the oxidized form of a disaccharide or dimeric carbohydrate, such as lactobionic acid, derived from lactose.

In most aldobionic acids, the carbon at position one of the monosaccharide is chemically bonded to the hydroxyl group at the other position of the aldonic acid. Therefore, from two identical monosaccharides and aldonic acids, different aldobionic acids or stereoisomers can be obtained, respectively.

As with the acids (a)-(c) listed above, aldobionic acids contain several hydroxyl groups attached to carbon chains.

Aldobionic acids can be represented by the following general formula:

H(CHOH) _m (CHOR)(CHOH)nCOOH where m and n are independently integers from 0 to 7 and R is a monosaccharide.

Aldobionic acids can form intramolecular lactones by removing 1 mole of water between a carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group.

The following are typical aldobionic acid lactones:

lactobionolactone and isolactobionolactone;

maltobionolactone; isomaltobionolactone isomaltobionic acid;

cellobionolactone; gentiobionolactone; coyibionolactone; laminaribionolactone; melibionolactone; nigerobionolactone; rutinobionolactone and sophorobionolactone.

The lactone is preferably a δ-lactone. More preferably, the lactone is selected from gluconolactone, galactonolactone, glucuronolactone, galacturonolactone, gulonolactone, ribonolactone, sugar lactone, pantoyllactone, glucoheptonolactone, mannonolactone and galactoheptonolactone, most preferably when the lactone is gluconolactone.

Mixtures of any of the carbohydrate-derived acids listed above may also be used in the composition for use in the present invention.

The total amount of lactone in hair care compositions for use in the present invention is typically 0.02 to 20%, preferably 0.05 to 2%, more preferably 0.05 to 0.8%, based on the total lactone weight. to the total weight of the composition.

The total content of glucanolactone, trehalose and sodium sulfate is preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. When the composition for use in the present invention is a shampoo, the content is preferably 0.005 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.6 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the shampoo. When the composition is a conditioner, the content is preferably 0.005 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the conditioner.

organic acid.

The composition for use in the present invention contains an organic acid or a salt thereof. Such an acid is preferably a hydroxy acid, most preferably an α-hydroxy acid. Suitable examples include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof. Suitable β-hydroxy acids include propanoic acid, β-hydroxypropionic acid, β-hydroxybutyric acid, salicylic acid, carnitine

- 3 040528 and mixtures thereof. Also suitable is sodium benzoate.

disaccharide.

The present invention includes a disaccharide, which disaccharide preferably consists of a pentose or a hexose, more preferably two hexose units.

Disaccharides can be either reducing or non-reducing sugars. Non-reducing sugars are preferred.

The D(+) form of the disaccharides is preferred. Especially preferred are trehalose and cellobiose or mixtures thereof. The most preferred disaccharide is trehalose.

The level of disaccharides present in the total composition is from 0.001 to 8 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005 to 5 wt.%, more preferably from 0.01 to 3 wt.%, most preferably from 0.05 to 2 wt.%.

inorganic salt.

The composition according to the present invention preferably contains an inorganic salt.

Examples of suitable inorganic salts include sodium sulfate, potassium fluoride, calcium chloride, sodium chloride and potassium phosphate.

According to one preferred embodiment, the inorganic salt is an alkali metal salt, said alkali metal salt being preferably sulfate, more preferably such salt is sodium sulfate.

The alkali metal salt is present at a level of from 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% by weight, most preferably from 0.1% by weight. The maximum salt level is less than 10 wt%, preferably less than 7 wt%, more preferably less than 5 wt%.

According to a second alternative preferred embodiment, the inorganic salt is a source of ammonium ions, preferably such salt is ammonium carbonate.

Such a second preferred inorganic salt is preferably present at a level of from 0.01 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.05 wt.%. The maximum content of ammonium carbonate is preferably less than 10 wt.%, more preferably less than 5 wt.%, most preferably less than 1 wt.%. In addition, preferably the content of ammonium carbonate is from 0.01 to 2.0 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Composition for hair treatment.

The hair treatment compositions of the present invention may suitably take the form of shampoos, conditioners, sprays, mousses, gels, waxes or lotions.

The hair treatment composition is preferably a rinse-off hair treatment composition, preferably selected from shampoo, conditioner and mask. More preferably, the shampoo and conditioner are used one after the other, and most preferably used repeatedly over several washes or treatments.

Shampoos.

Shampoo compositions for use in the present invention are typically aqueous, i. they contain water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as the main component.

Accordingly, the shampoo composition will contain from 50 to 98%, preferably from 60 to 90% water by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

In general, the shampoo compositions of the present invention will contain one or more anionic detergent surfactants that are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Examples of suitable anionic detergent surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkaryl sulfonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl esters of carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular their sodium, magnesium, ammonium salts and salts. mono-, di- and triethanolamine. Alkyl and acyl groups usually contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. Alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl esters of carboxylic acids and their salts may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.

Exemplary anionic detergent surfactants for use in shampoo compositions for use in the present invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium dodecylethanol sulfonate, trisodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, , sodium lauryl isethionate, carboxylic acid lauryl ester and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.

Preferred anionic detergent surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (p)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate (p)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammo lauryl ether sulfate. - 4 040528 niya (p)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate and lauryl ester of carboxylic acid (p)EO (where n is from 10 to 20).

In addition, mixtures of any of the anionic detergent surfactants listed above may be suitable.

The total amount of anionic detergent surfactant in shampoo compositions for use in the present invention is typically 0.5 to 45%, preferably 1.5 to 35%, more preferably 5 to 20%, by total weight of the anionic detergent surfactant in based on the total weight of the composition.

The shampoo composition for use in the present invention may optionally contain the additional ingredients described below to enhance efficacy and/or consumer appeal.

The composition may include auxiliary surfactants to help impart aesthetic, physical, or detergent properties to the composition.

An example of a co-surfactant is a non-ionic surfactant, which may be included in an amount of 0.5 to 8%, preferably 2 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

For example, typical non-ionic surfactants that can be included in shampoo compositions for use in the present invention include the condensation products of aliphatic (C ₈ -C ₁₈ ) primary or secondary straight or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, typically ethylene oxide, typically containing 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.

Other exemplary nonionic surfactants include mono- or dialkylalkanolamides. Examples include cocomono- or diethanolamide and cocomonoisopropanolamide.

Additional non-ionic surfactants that may be included in shampoo compositions for use in the present invention are alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, APG is a compound containing an alkyl group linked (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are determined by the following formula:

RO - (G) _n where R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group, which may be saturated or unsaturated, and G is a saccharide group.

R may be a medium length alkyl chain from about C ₅ to about C ₂₀ . R is preferably a medium length alkyl chain from about C ₈ to about C ₁₂ . Most preferably, the R value is from about 9.5 to about 10.5. G can be selected from C ₅ or C ₆ monosaccharide residues, with G being preferably a glucoside. G can be selected from the group consisting of glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. G is preferably glucose.

The degree of polymerization, n, may be from about 1 to about 10 or more. The value of n is preferably from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably, if the value of n is from about 1.3 to about 1.5.

Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the present invention are commercially available and include, for example, materials referred to as Oramix NS10 from Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000, from Henkel.

Other sugar-derived non-ionic surfactants that may be included in compositions for use in the present invention include C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ N alkyl (C 1 -C ₆ )polyhydroxy fatty acid amides such as C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ N-methylglucamides, described, for example, in WO 9206154 and US 5194639, and N-alkoxypolyhydroxy fatty acid amides such as C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ N-(3methoxypropyl)glucamide.

A preferred example of a co-surfactant is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, which may be included in an amount of 0.5 to about 8%, preferably 1 to 4% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants include alkylamine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkylsulfobetaines (sultaines), alkylglycinates, alkylcarboxyglycinates, alkylamphoacetates, alkylamphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkylamidopropylhydroxysultaines, acyltaurates, and acylglutamates, wherein alkyl groups contain from 8 to 19 alkyl atoms. Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants used in shampoos for use in the present invention include laurylamine oxide, cocodimethylsulfopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, and sodium cocoamphoacetate.

A particularly preferred amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant

- 5 040528 is cocamidopropyl betaine.

Mixtures of any of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants listed above may also be suitable. Preferred mixtures are mixtures of cocamidopropyl betaine with the additional amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants described above. A preferred additional amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant is sodium cocoamphoacetate.

The total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant and/or any emulsifier) in a shampoo composition for use in the present invention is typically 1 to 50%, preferably 2 to 40%, more preferably 10 to 25% by total weight of surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.

Cationic polymers are the preferred ingredients in the shampoo composition for use in the present invention, used to improve the effectiveness of conditioning.

Suitable cationic polymers can be homopolymers that are cationically substituted, or suitable cationic polymers can be made from two or more types of monomers. In general, the weight average (M _w ) molecular weight of such polymers will be from 100,000 to 2 million Da. Such polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a combination thereof. If the molecular weight of the polymer is too low, the conditioning effect will be weak. If too high, there may be problems with high extensive viscosity, resulting in the composition being stringy when poured.

In general, a cationic nitrogen-containing group will be present as a substituent on the moiety of the common monomeric units of the cationic polymer. Thus, when the polymer is not a homopolymer, it may contain non-cationic monomer units as a spacer. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd Ed. (The Cosmetic Ingredient Directory of the Cosmetics and Fragrances Association). The ratio of cationic to non-cationic monomeric units is chosen so as to obtain polymers with a cationic charge density in the desired range, which is usually from 0.2 to 3.0 meq/g. The cationic charge density of the polymer is suitably determined by the Kjeldahl method, as described in the USP, according to nitrogen chemical tests.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functional vinyl monomers with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth)acrylamides, alkyl (meth)acrylate, vinylcaprolactone and vinylpyrrolidine. Alkyl - and dialkyl-substituted monomers preferably contain C 1 -C ₇ alkyl groups, more preferably C 1_ ₃ alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, 2-propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

Cationic amines may be primary, secondary or tertiary amines depending on the specific compound and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines are preferred, especially tertiary amines.

Amine-substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in the form of an amine and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.

The cationic polymers may contain mixtures of monomer units derived from an amine and/or quaternary ammonium containing monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, cationic polymers containing diallyl quaternary ammonium, including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively;

mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo- and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids containing from 3 to 5 carbon atoms (as described in US patent 4009256);

cationic polyacrylamides (described in WO 95/22311).

Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.

Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions for use in the present invention include monomers of the formula

where A represents a residual group of anhydroglucose, such as starch or anhydroglucose residue of cellulose; R represents an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene group or a combination thereof; R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl groups, with each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms in each cationic fragment (ie the sum of the carbon atoms in R ¹ , R ² and R ³ ) is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion.

Another type of cationic cellulose includes polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reactive with lauryldimethylammonium epoxide, referred to in the industry as (CTFA) Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corporation, for example under the tradename Polymer LM-200.

Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include cellulose ethers containing quaternary nitrogen (eg, as described in US Pat. No. 3,962,418) and cellulose esterified starch copolymers (eg, as described in US Pat. No. 3,958,581).

A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative such as hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride (commercially available from Rhodia in their JAGUAR series). Examples of such substances are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C14, JAGUAR C15 and JAGUAR C17.

Mixtures of any of the cationic polymers listed above can be used.

In general, the cationic polymer will be present in the shampoo composition for use in the present invention at levels of 0.01 to 5%, preferably 0.05 to 1%, more preferably 0.08 to 0.5%, by total weight of the cationic polymer. based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the aqueous shampoo composition for use in the present invention further comprises a suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of monomers containing carboxylic acid and acrylic acid esters, crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide resins and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain acyl derivative is preferably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, C16 to C22 fatty acid alkanolamides and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol distearate 3 are preferred long chain acyl derivatives because they impart a pearlescent effect to the composition. Polyacrylic acid can be purchased as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488, or Carbopol 493. Acrylic acid polymers crosslinked with a multifunctional agent can also be used; they are available as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing monomer and acrylic acid esters is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trade name) materials are available from Goodrich.

Suitable crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, such as gum, which is available as Kelzan mu.

Mixtures of any of the suspending agents listed above may be used. A mixture of a crosslinked acrylic acid polymer and a crystalline long chain acyl derivative is preferred.

In general, the suspending agent will be present in the shampoo composition for use in the present invention in an amount of 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 6%, more preferably 0.9 to 4%, by total weight of the suspending agent, based on to the total weight of the composition.

Conditioners.

Conditioner compositions will typically contain one or more cationic conditioning surfactants that are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Cationic conditioning surfactants preferably have the formula N ⁺ (R ¹ )(R ² )(R ³ )(R ⁴ ), where R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently (C ₁ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl or benzyl.

One, two or three of R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are preferably independently (C4C30) alkyl and the other R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ group or groups are (C 1 -C ₆ ) alkyl or benzyl.

More preferably, one or two of R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently (C6-C30) alkyl and the other R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ groups are (C 1 -C ₆ ) alkyl or benzyl groups. Optionally, alkyl groups may contain one or more ester (-OCO or -COO-) and/or ether (-O-) linkages to the alkyl chain. Alkyl groups may optionally contain one or more hydroxyl groups. Alkyl groups may be straight chain or branched and, in the case of alkyl groups containing 3 or more carbon atoms, cyclic. Alkyl groups may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (eg, oleyl). Alkyl groups are optionally ethoxylated in the alkyl chain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

Suitable cationic conditioning surfactants for use in

- 7 040528 композициях кондиционеров согласно настоящему изобретению включают хлорид цетилтриметиламмония, хлорид бегенилтриметиламмония, хлорид цетилпиридиния, хлорид тетраметиламмония, тетраэтиламмония хлорид, хлорид октилтриметиламмония, хлорид додецилтриметиламмония, хлорид гексадецилтриметиламмония, хлорид октилдиметилбензиламмония, хлорид децилдиметилбензиламмония, хлорид стеарилдиметилбензиламмония, хлорид дидодецилдиметиламмония, хлорид диоктадецилдиметиламмония, хлорид таллоутриметиламмония , dihydrogenated tallowdimethylammonium chloride (eg Arquad 2HT/75 from Akzo Nobel), cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleammonium chloride and their respective hydroxides. Additional suitable cationic surfactants include those CTFA-named Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the materials listed above may also be suitable. A particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in the conditioners of the present invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, which is available, for example, as GENAMTN CTAC from Hoechst Celanese. Another particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in the air conditioners of the present invention is behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, commercially available, for example, as GENAMTN KDMP, from Clariant.

Another example of a class of suitable cationic conditioning surfactants for use in the present invention, either alone or in admixture with one or more other cationic conditioning surfactants, is a combination of (i) and (ii) below (i ) amidoamine corresponding to the general formula (I)

^R2

R ¹ CONH(CH ₂ ) _m N

R3 in which R ¹ is a hydrocarbyl chain containing 10 or more carbon atoms, R ² and R ³ are independently selected from hydrocarbyl chains containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 10; and (ii) acids.

As used herein, the term hydrocarbyl chain means an alkyl or alkenyl chain.

Preferred amidoamine compounds are compounds according to formula (I) wherein

R ¹ is a hydrocarbyl residue containing from about 11 to about 24 carbon atoms,

R ² and R ³ are each independently hydrocarbyl residues, preferably alkyl groups containing from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, and

m. is an integer from 1 to about 4.

R ² and R ³ are preferably methyl or ethyl groups.

m. preferably is 2 or 3, i. e. ethylene or propylene group.

Предпочтительные амидоамины, подходящие для применения в настоящем изобретении, включают стеарамидопропилдиметиламин, стеарамидопропилдиэтиламин, стеарамидоэтилдиэтиламин, стеарамидоэтилдиметиламин, пальмитамидопропилдиметиламин, пальмитамидопропилдиэтиламин, пальмитамидоэтилдиэтиламин, пальмитамидоэтилдиметиламин, бегенамидопропилдиметиламин, бегенамидопропилдиэтиламин, бегенамидоэтилдиэтиламин, бегенамидоэтилдиметиламин, арахидамидопропилдиметиламин, арахидамидопропилдиэтиламин, арахидамидоэтилдиэтиламин, арахидамидоэтилдиметиламин и их смеси.

Particularly preferred amidoamines useful in the present invention are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine and mixtures thereof.

Commercially available amidoamines suitable for use in the present invention include stearamidopropyldimethylamine with the trade names LEXAMINE S-13 available from Inolex (Philadelphia, PA, USA) and AMIDOAMINE MSP available from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan), stearamidoethyldiethylamine with the tradename AMIDOAMINE S available from Nikko, behenamidopropyldimethylamine with the tradename INCROMINE BB available from Croda (North Humberside, England), and various amidoamines with the tradenames of the SCHERCODINE series available from Scher ( Clifton, New Jersey, USA).

The acid (ii) may be any organic or mineral acid capable of protonating the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition. Suitable acids for use in the present invention include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. The acid is preferably selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

The main role of the acid is to protonate the amidoamine in the hair care composition, resulting in the in situ formation of a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in the hair care composition. In fact, TAS is a cationic surfactant based on temporary quaternary ammonium or pseudoquaternary ammonium.

Accordingly, the acid is included in an amount sufficient to protonate any amidoamine present, i. e. at a level that is at least equimolar to the amount of amidoamine present in the composition.

In conditioners for use in the present invention, the level of cationic conditioning surfactant will generally be 0.01 to 10%, more preferably 0.05 to 7.5%, most preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight. the total weight of the cationic conditioning surfactant, based on the total weight of the composition.

Conditioners for use in the present invention will typically also include a fatty alcohol. The combined use of fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be particularly advantageous because it results in the formation of a lamellar phase in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

Typical fatty alcohols contain from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22. Fatty alcohols are usually compounds containing straight chain alkyl groups. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The use of these substances is also beneficial as they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of the compositions for use in the present invention.

In general, the level of fatty alcohol in conditioners for use in the present invention will be 0.01 to 10%, preferably 0.1 to 8%, more preferably 0.2 to 7%, most preferably 0.3 to 6%. % by weight of the composition. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is respectively 1:1 to 1:10, preferably 1:1.5 to 1:8, optimally 1:2 to 1:5. If the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is too high, eye irritation can result from the composition. If it is too low, it can give the hair a squeaky feel for some consumers.

composition form.

Compositions for use in the present invention may suitably be in the form of a hair oil for use before washing or after washing. Typically, hair oils will predominantly contain water-insoluble oily conditioning agents such as triglycerides, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

Compositions for use in the present invention may also be in the form of a hair lotion, typically for use between washes. Lotions are aqueous emulsions containing water-insoluble oily conditioning agents. Suitable surfactants can also be included in lotions to improve their stability against phase separation.

The hair care compositions of the present invention, in particular aqueous shampoos and hair conditioners, will preferably also contain one or more silicone conditioning agents.

Particularly preferred silicone conditioning agents are silicone emulsions, such as emulsions derived from silicones, such as polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, which according to CTFA are called dimethicone, polydimethylsiloxanes containing hydroxyl end groups, which according to CTFA are called dimethiconol, amino-functional polydimethylsiloxanes, which according to the CTFA are called amodimethicone.

In the composition for use in the present invention, the emulsion droplets can typically have a Souter mean diameter (D ₃ , ₂ ) of 0.01 to 20 µm, more preferably 0.2 to 10 µm.

A suitable method for measuring Souter's average droplet diameter (D ₃ , ₂ ) is based on laser light scattering using an instrument such as the Malvern Mastersizer.

Suitable silicone emulsions for use in the compositions of the present invention are available from silicone suppliers such as Dow Corning and GE Silicones. The use of such preformed silicone emulsions is advantageous from the point of view of ease of handling and size control of the silicone particles. Such preformed silicone emulsions will typically further contain a suitable emulsifier such as an anionic or nonionic emulsifier or a mixture thereof and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerization or by mechanical emulsification using a high shear mixer. Preformed silicone emulsions with a Souter mean droplet diameter (D3.2) of less than 0.15 µm are commonly referred to as microemulsions.

Examples of suitable preformed silicone emulsions include DC2-1766, DC2-1784, DC-1785, DC-1786, DC-1788 emulsions and DC2-1865 and DC2-1870 microemulsions, all available from Dow Coining. They are all emulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol. Also suitable are amodimethicone emulsions such as DC2-8177 and DC939 (from Dow Coining) and SME253 (from GE Silicones).

Also suitable are silicone emulsions in which certain types of high molecular weight surface active block copolymers are mixed with silicone emulsion droplets, as described in WO 03/094874, for example. In such materials, the silicone emulsion droplets are preferably derived from polydiorganosiloxanes such as the polydiorganosiloxanes described above. One of the preferred forms of surface active block copolymer corresponds to the following formula:

where the average value of x is 4 or more and the average value of y is 25 or more.

Another preferred form of surface-active block copolymer corresponds to the following formula:

(HO(CH ₂ CH2O)a(CH(CH3)CH ₂ O)b)2-N-CH2-CH2-N((OCH2CH(CH3))b(OCH2CH2)aOH)2 where the average value of a is 2 or more , and the average value of b is 6 or more.

Mixtures of any of the silicone emulsions described above may also be used.

In general, the silicone emulsions described above will be present in the composition for use in the present invention in an amount of 0.05% to 10%, preferably 0.05% to 5%, more preferably 0.5% to 2%, by total weight of silicone, based on to the total weight of the composition.

other ingredients.

The composition for use in the present invention may contain other ingredients to improve efficacy and/or consumer appeal. Such ingredients include fragrance, colorants and pigments, pH adjusters, pearlescent agents or opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, and preservatives or antimicrobials. Each of the listed ingredients will be present in an amount effective to achieve its purpose. In general, these optional ingredients are included individually in an amount of up to 5 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition.

The hair treatment compositions for use in the present invention are generally intended for topical application to the human hair and/or scalp, either as a rinse-off formulation or as a leave-on formulation for the care of dry, damaged and/or unruly hair.

The present invention will be further illustrated by the following non-limiting examples, in which all percentages are by weight based on total weight unless otherwise indicated.

Examples

In the following examples, hair was treated according to the present invention with shampoo and conditioner formulations containing a mixture of glucono-δ-lactone, sodium sulfate and trehalose and compared with comparative formulations that did not contain these active substances. The treatment was carried out before and after bleaching or thermal hair straightening.

In the following examples, n=5.

Example 1 Shampoo formulations 1 and A and conditioner formulations 2 and B

The compositions of the shampoos used in these examples are given below in table. 1.

Shampoo 1 contained glucono-δ-lactone, sodium sulfate and trehalose.

Shampoo A did not contain any of these hair active ingredients.

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Table 1

Composition of Shampoo Formulations 1 and A

starting material Activity, % Quantity in product (% wt., based on the total weight of the composition) 1 pH 4.4 A pH 5.8 Sodium laureth sulfate 70 17.14 17.14 Cocamidopropyl Betaine thirty 5.33 5.33 Chloride guarhydroxypropyltrimonium 100 0.25 0.25 Dimethiconol 22 1.6 1.6 Glycerol 100 1 1

Disodium-EDTA 100 0.05 0.05 Sodium hydroxide 50 0.02 0.02 Glucono-d e l ta-l acton 100 0.4 0 Sodium sulfate, powder 100 0.1 0 Trehalose 100 0.1 0 Lemon acid 50 1 1 Sodium chloride 100 1.3 1.3 Water and excipients (flavor, pigments, preservative) - up to 100 up to 100 pH 4.4 5.8

The compositions of conditioners used in these examples are given below in table. 2.

Conditioner 2 contained glucono-δ-lactone, sodium sulfate and trehalose.

Conditioner B did not contain any of the listed hair active ingredients.

table 2

The composition of the compositions of conditioners 2 and B

starting material Activity, % Quantity in product (% wt., based on the total weight of the composition) 2 IN Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 100 0.75 0.75 Cetearyl alcohol 100 3 3 Dimethicone and Amodimethicone 100 1.429 1.429 Lactic acid 100 0.55 0.55 Sodium chloride 100 0.2 0.2 Trehalose 100 0.1 0 Sodium sulfate, powder 100 0.01 0 Glucono delta lactone 100 0.1 0 begentrimonium chloride 100 0.75 0.75 Water and excipients (flavor, pigments, preservative) - up to 100 up to 100

pH 4.0 5.0

Example 2 Treatment of hair with shampoo formulations 1 and A and conditioner formulations 2 and B.

The hair used in these examples was mixed dark brown European hair strands 10 inches (25.4 cm) long and weighing 5 grams.

Before starting any of the treatments, the hair strands were washed with a 14% SLES-1EO solution to remove any surface contaminants. Each strand was treated with a solution of SLES-1EO in the amount of 0.1 mlxg ¹ hair. The strands were lathered for 30 seconds and then washed in warm water for 30 seconds. This treatment was repeated, after which the hair was combed with a comb and dried in air.

processing method.

For the shampooing procedures, the hair strands were washed using 0.1 ml of shampoo product (compositions I and A) per gram of hair. The strands were lathered for 30 seconds and then washed in warm water (35°C-40°C) for 30 seconds. This treatment was repeated, after which the hair was combed with a comb.

For the conditioning procedures, the strands were treated with 0.2 g of conditioner product (compositions 2 and B) per gram of hair. The product was massaged into towel-dried hair for 60 seconds and washed in warm water for 60 seconds. The processed strands were combed with a comb. The hair was left to air dry.

Example 3. The implementation of a damaging effect on the hair by bleaching and thermal straightening.

Before the implementation of each damaging effect, the hair was treated 20 times, as described in example 2.

Samples were taken at two time points:

(1) (after the initial main wash) before any shampoo and conditioner washes, and (2) after a damaging treatment.

The protocols for bleaching and thermal straightening were as follows: Bleaching.

The hair was bleached once for 30 minutes using Platine Precision White Compact Lightening Powder (L'Oreal Professionnel Paris, Paris, France) mixed with 9% cream peroxide, 30 vol. (Excel GS Ltd, UK) (60 g powder mixed with 120 g cream peroxide). The hair was then washed with water for 2 minutes.

Hair straightening.

For the thermal straightening treatment, the hair strands were hung on a stand and hot-styled with hair straightening at temperatures up to 230°C. The iron was carried along the length of the hair in the direction from the roots to the ends of the hair, the exposure time was 12 s for each pass. The hair was treated using up to 3 passes at a time and left to cool to room temperature until the next approach. A total of 18 passes were made for each strand.

Example 4 Determination of the level of damage using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).

To prepare hair samples for DSC, 1 inch (2.54 cm) was cut from the end of each strand. The hair was then cut into 1-2 mm sections.

For measurements, a Mettler-Toledo DSC1 (with autosampler) was used. Samples of dry, finely chopped hair weighing 7 to 10 mg were placed in resin-impregnated base sections of 0.7 mm medium pressure stainless steel DSC cups and carefully weighed on a balance to five decimal places. Then, 50 μl of deionized water was added to each sample, after which a lid (equipped with a rubber seal) was put on the cup and the cups were closed by crimping to provide an airtight seal. To ensure complete hydration of the hair, the cups were equilibrated for at least 24 h before any measurement. °С min ^-1 .

The results are shown below in table. 3.

Table 3 Change in denaturation temperature (ATdenat) during bleaching or thermal straightening of hair treated with Shampoo and Conditioner Compositions 1 and 2 of the present invention or Comparative Compositions A and B

Damage effect Treatment Protection ATdenat Standard deviation Criterion Student

(p-value) Bleaching 1 followed by 2 -0.38 0.33 0.0003 Bleaching A followed by B -3.44 0.76 Thermal straightening 1 followed by 2 -0.09 0.39 0.0160 thermal straightening A followed by B -1.45 0.65

How

Claims (11)

significantly lower in samples pre-treated with shampoo and conditioner according to the present invention. This indicates that the hair was protected from protein damage. CLAIM 1. A method for protecting hair from damage caused by bleaching or thermal straightening of hair, comprising the step of repeatedly applying to the hair before the damaging effect of a hair treatment composition containing lactone in an amount of from 0.02 to 20 wt.% relative to the total mass of the composition, a disaccharide in an amount from 0.001 to 8 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition, an inorganic salt in an amount from 0.001 to 10 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition and an organic acid or its salt, where the pH of the specified composition is from 3 to 6.5. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the hair protection is the protection of the internal protein of the hair. 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said step of applying to the hair a hair treatment composition containing lactone in an amount of from 0.02 to 20 wt.% relative to the total mass of the composition, a disaccharide in an amount of from 0.001 to 8 wt. .% relative to the total weight of the composition, an inorganic salt in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition, and an organic acid or salt thereof, with a pH of 3 to 6.5, is carried out 2 to 50 times, more preferably 5 to 30 times, most preferably 10 to 20 times. 4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said hair treatment composition is a rinse-off hair treatment composition, preferably selected from shampoo, conditioner and mask. 5. The method of claim 4, wherein said shampoo and conditioner are used sequentially. 6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said lactone is a δlactone selected from gluconolactone, galactonolactone, glucuronolactone, galacturonolactone, gulonolactone, ribonolactone, sugar acid lactone, pantoyllactone, glucoheptonolactone, mannonolactone, galactoheptonolactone and mixtures thereof . 7. The method according to claim 6, characterized in that said lactone is a gluconolactone. 8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that said disaccharide consists of a pentose or a hexose, more preferably two hexose units. 9. The method of claim 8, wherein said disaccharide is trehalose. 10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that said inorganic salt is sodium sulfate. 11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that said hair treatment composition contains gluconolactone in an amount of from 0.02 to 20 wt.% relative to the total mass of the composition, trehalose in an amount of from 0.001 to 8 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition, sodium sulfate in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition and an organic acid or its salt, while the pH of the specified composition is from 3 to 6.5, preferably from 3 to 5, to protect the internal protein of the hair from damage caused by bleaching or thermal hair straightening. Eurasian Patent Organization, EAPO Russia, 109012, Moscow, Maly Cherkassky per., 2 -