DE3147911A1 - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

The cosmetic compositions contain as skin-care component nerolidol, its esters and/or ethers. In the cosmetic compositions, nerolidol displays not only a skin-care but also an emulsifying action as well as a structural improvement of creams.

Description

Cosmetic preparation

Cosmetic preparation The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation, which nerolidol, i.e. 3,7,11-trimethyl-1,6,10-dodecatrien-3-ol, its ester and / or It contains ether as a skin care component It is already known in cosmetic Preparations as skin care component squalene, lanosterol, cholesterol, such as also use derivatives of cholic acids (G.A. Nowak, "Die kosmetischenpreparate" (2nd edition), Verlag für chem.

Industry (H. Ziolkowsky KG, Augsburg) pp. 23 and 189; Karlheinz Schrader, Basics and recipes of cosmetics "(Dr. Alfred Hüthig Verlag, Heidelberg) Pp. 49, 102 and 146; Dr. R. A. Eckstein, Organic Cosmetics: From Research and Practice (1976, Linde Eckstein KG, Nuremberg) p. 380). Unfortunately, the products mentioned are squalene, Lanosterol and cholesterol are sometimes difficult to access, and sometimes expensive the accessibility partly also depends on economic and political factors depends. For example, squalene is obtained from shark liver oil, which is becoming increasingly difficult can be obtained in the required quality. Th. R. Davis, Cosmetics and Toiletries 91 (1976) 33 has already tried to replace this natural product with synthetic ones Substances to replace.

The object of the present invention was to provide the abovementioned skin care products Substances in cosmetic preparations by other, more accessible and to replace economically more advantageous substances. By changing the recipe however, should neither stability nor consistency or appearance of the cosmetic preparations adversely changed will.

It has now surprisingly been found that nerolidol, its ester and / or ethers, which are referred to below as derivatives, as a constituent of cosmetic preparations, when they are used, a nourishing effect on the skin Make an impact.

In addition to the care effect, Nerolidol and its derivatives already have advantages in the production of the cosmetic preparation due to its emulsifying effect on. Furthermore, nerolidol or its esters and ethers are compared to before natural substances used, more stable against oxidation.

The invention therefore relates, in particular, to cosmetic preparations Care products which nerolidol, its esters and / or ethers as skin care products Component included.

Nerolidol is found in many naturally occurring essential oils, such as jasmine blossom oil, verbena oil, orange blossom oil, neroli oil etc. (E. Gildemeister & Fr. Hoffmann, "The ethereal oils", Vol. IIIb, (Berlin, 1962), P. 239), and has already been used as a fragrance in various preparations.

Furthermore, nerolidol and the preparations containing nerolidol and natural oils have antimicrobial properties (J. A. Morris, A. Khettry & E. W. Seitz, J. Am. Oil-Chem.

Soc. 56 (5), (1979) 595).

G. Popjak & JW Cornforth, Advances in Enzymology 22 (1960) 281 and L. Gosselin & J. Duvivier, Bull. Soc. Chim. Biol. 47, (1965) 359 have shown experimentally that the phosphate form of nerolidol can be metabolized to squalene with enzymatic systems from liver homogenates. The latter can then be further converted into steroids such as lanosterol, cholesterol, etc. These known reactions are shown in Scheme A and Scheme B below: Scheme A Farnesyl pyrophosphate Nerolidyl pyrophosphate Squalene Scheme B Squalene Lanosterol Cholesterol NADPH = reduced nicotinamide-adenine-dinucleotide-phosphate NADP $ = nicotinamide-adenine-dinucleotide-phosphate It is assumed that nerolidol or its derivatives3 are caused by enzyme systems which usually occur on human skin and / or by enzyme systems of microorganisms , which are also on the skin, can metabolize in the above-mentioned manner and this creates the skin-caring effect. Such a metabolism is surprising because the person skilled in the art could expect that the known antimicrobial property of nerolidol would also impair the corresponding enzymatic effect.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can be in the form of Cleaning, beautification or maintenance preparations are available. Examples of such Cosmetic preparations are: bath preparations, skin and hair washes, such as soaps, Bubble baths, bath oils, foam cream baths, shampoos; Facial tonics, body lotions, Skin oils, skin creams, lip care products, face packs, skin cleansers, Facial lotions, sunscreens, skin tanning agents, skin bleaching agents, insect repellants Preparations, deodorants, antiperspirants; Intimate care products, such as intimate detergents and Intimate deodorants; Foot care products, such as foot bath essences, foot powder, foot lotions, Foot creams, foot sprays; Acne medication. Shaving aids, such as aftershave lotions, pre-shave agents, After-shave agent; Hair lotions, hair oils, hair fixatives, hair lacquers, hair fixatives, Hair conditioners, hair treatments; Face care products, powder, eye care products, lipsticks, Nail care products.

Nerolidol, its esters and ethers show next to the light and economical Accessibility also has various other advantages. This is how nerolidol shows in the cosmetic preparations have an emulsifying effect and are stable against oxidation, which is why corresponding preparations can be stored well in the long term. This in contrast for example squalene, which is easily oxidized, and preparations made with it have a correspondingly shorter storage time.

Nerolidol has the added benefit of being toxicologically is harmless. It is even approved as a food additive in most countries.

The preparations according to the invention were very well received by test persons judged positively. Women who use the cosmetic preparations according to the invention have used, have found the following effects, among others: wrinkle smoothing, Increased skin moisture and skin elasticity.

It is believed that nerolidol, its derivatives and / or its by The metabolites produced by enzymes stimulate the metabolism of the skin cause. In order to make better use of this stimulation, the preparations according to the invention preferably nutrients for the skin, such as e.g. Collagen and Natural Moisture Factor (NMF) added. When it comes to collagen a protein that can be biochemically processed into cellular material. Natural Moisture Factor is a term commonly used in cosmetics for a predominantly Amino acids containing mixture of substances, which in its composition corresponds to the skin's own moisturizing factor.

Of course, the preparations according to the invention can be further others customary for cosmetic preparations and suitable for the respective use Contain substances. These include, for example

Fats and liquid fats, waxes and natural substances similar to these and / or of synthetic origin; Surfactants; Emulsifiers; Solubilizer; Solvent; hydrocolloids and film-forming substances; Propellants; Dyes; Flavorings; Perfume oils and fragrances; Humectants; antimicrobial substances as preservatives; Antioxidants and stabilizers; Plant and organ extracts; pH-regulating Additions; Vitamins; Light stabilizers; anti-inflammatory additives; Skin tanning agents; Skin bleaching agents; insect repellants.

Nerolidol and its derivatives are also lightweight and economical Way accessible. They can be isolated from vegetable sources by known methods or manufactured synthetically. Such procedures are for example in IN. N. Nazarov et al., Zhur. Obshchei Khim. 28, (1958), pp.

1444; see also Chem. Abstr. 53, (1959), p. 1102 i; CH-PS 261 120, GB-PS 774 621 and US-PS 2841 620.

The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, the emulsifier effect and the improvement of the cream structure based on comparative examples will be shown.

Example 1 (emulsion) Example la) (according to the invention) A) Isopropyl myristinate 100 g nerolidol 50 g glycerine monostearate 5 g "Amphisol" *) 2 g B) propylene glycol 50 g water 670 g total 877 g *) Amphisol = diethanolammonium salt of a partial Phosphoric acid alkyl ester (ex Givaudan) By successively adding the emulsifier pair Glycerol monostearate and Ámphisol in a weight ratio of 5: 2 could be shown are3 that3 already after adding 5 g of glycerol monostearate and 2 g of "Amphisol" to the above base material (consisting of isopropyl myristinate and nerolidol), this left to emulsify.

Both the fat phase A) and the water phase B) were heated to 75.degree. Then B) was added to phase A), which was stirred with a turbine stirrer, and the Preparation was allowed to cool to room temperature with good stirring.

Example Ib) (comparison) A) Isopropyl myristinate 150 g of glycerol monostearate 12.5 g Amphisol 5 g B) Propylene glycol 50 g Water 670 g Total 887.5 g The fat phase consisted only of isopropyl myristinate. Nerolidol was completely used in this experiment omitted; in terms of quantity, however, it was increased by adding a corresponding proportion compensated for isopropyl myristinate.

It was found that, with increasing addition of both emulsifiers in the ratio mentioned in example la), emulsification only after the addition of 12.5 g glycerol monostearate and 5 g "Amphisol" could be achieved. It needed thus, compared to example la), 2.5 times the amount of emulsifier mixture same conditions to obtain an emulsion.

Example lc) (comparison) A) isopropyl myristinate 100 g squalane 50 g Glycerine monostearate 12.5 g "Amphisol" 5 g B) Propylene glycol 50 g water 670 g total 887.5 g Was the branched-chain nerolidol of example la) by an equivalent amount of the also having a branched carbon chain Replacing squalane, this also resulted in a considerably more difficult to emulsify System than that mentioned under example la). Thus, by means of a procedure that corresponded to that of examples la) and lb) (addition of the emulsifier pair in increasing amounts), show that here, too, approx. 2.5 times the amount of emulsifier with regard to example la) had to be used in order to achieve a corresponding emulsification to reach.

Example 2 The effect of nerolidol on consistency, surface structure and the softness of a cream was measured using a stearic acid o / w emulsion of the day cream type investigated in Examples 2a) and 2b).

Example 2a) (day cream) A) Stearin 70 g nerolidol 50 g isopropyl myristinate 100 g glycerine monostearate 30 g 'Amphisol' 10 g "Sterilip" *) 5 g "Anoxol" **) 5 g "Irgasan DP 300" ***) 3 g B) Propylene glycol 50 g water 666.5 g "Sterilaqua" *** 3 g C) Perfume 7.5 g total 1000.0 g *) "Sterilip" = preservative of the p-hydroxybenzoic acid ester type from Codive AG, CH-6300 Zug **) "Anoxol" = synergetic Antioxidant from Codiva AG, CH-6300 Zug ***) "Irgasan DP 300" = preservative of the type of a polychlorinated phenol from Ciba-Geigy AG, CH-4002 Basel ****) "Sterilaqua" = Imidazolidinyl urea type preservatives from Codiva AG, CH-6300 Zug The fat phase A) and the water phase B) were heated to 750C; after that became the water phase slowly to the fat phase stirred with the turbine stirrer; llgegebon. Ms was cooled to about 350 ° C. with further stirring and likewise with stirring the perfume phase C) was added. After reaching room temperature, the Stirring stopped.

Example 2b) (comparison) A) Stearin 70 g isopropyl myristinate 100 g Glycerine monostearate 30 g "Amphisol" 10 g "Sterilip" 5 g "Anoxol" 5 g "Irgasan DP 300 "3 g B) propylene glycol 50 g water 666.5 g" Sterilaqua "3 g C) perfume 7.5 g Total 950.0 g Nerolidol has been omitted entirely. The remaining Emulsion ingredients correspond to those in Example 2a) and were also used in the same Quantities and used under the same conditions. A comparison of the two emulsions immediately shows that that of Example 2a) much by the addition of nerolidol is softer, has a smoother surface and a more appealing structure. When applying on the skin it creates a soft, comfortable feeling and shows a more pronounced one Spreading ability. In addition, this is usually the case with creams containing stearin Whitening on the skin is greatly reduced by the addition of nerolidol.

Example 3 (Nourishing Day Cream) A day cream was made as in Example 2b). 10 g of nerolidol and the water phase were added to the fat phase A) B) Given 10 g of collagen.

Example 4 (Moisturizing Day Cream) A day cream according to the example 2b) was produced. 10 g of nerolidol and the water phase were added to the fat phase A) B) 10 g of NMF were added as a moisture factor ("Dermamoist-NMF" from Codiva AG, CH-6300 Zug).

Example 5 (day cream) A day cream according to Example 2b) was used manufactured. 10 g of nerolidol were added to the fat phase A) and the water phase B) 10 g collagen and 10 g NMF added.

Example 6 (day cream) A day cream according to Example 2b) was used manufactured. 10 g of nerolidol were added to the fat phase A) and the water phase B) 10 g panthenol were added.

Example 7 (day cream) A day cream according to Example 2b) was used manufactured. 10 g of nerolidol were added to the fat phase A) and the water phase B) 10 g panthenol and 10 g collagen were added.

Example 8 (day cream) A day cream according to Example 2b) was used manufactured. A further 200 g of nerolidol were added to the fat phase A).

Example 9 (day cream) A day cream according to Example 2b) was used manufactured. 0.1 g of nerolidol were also added to the fat phase A).

Example 10 (day cream) A day cream according to Example 2b) was used manufactured. A further 7 g of nerolidol were added to the fat phase A).

Example 11 (night cream) A) "Protegin" *) 180 g lanolin 80 g bee wax 35 g microcrystalline wax 40 g perhydrosqualene 80 g nerolidol 10 g paraffin oil 150 g Cetiol V 100 g "Sterilip" 5 g "Anoxol" 5 g B) Magnesium sulfate 2 g "Sterilaqua" 3 g water 302 g C) Perfume 8 g total 1000 g *) From Th. Goldschmidt AG, D-43 Essen Mixing was carried out analogously to Example 2a).

Example 12 (face oil) "PCL, liquid *) 100 g olive oil 300 g nerolidol 10 g "Miglyol 812" **) 200 g "Cetiol V" ****) 300 g avocado oil 60 g St. John's wort oil ***) 10 g vitamin oil ***) 10 g "Anoxol" 10 g total 1000 g *) From Dragoco Gerberding & Co. GmbH, D-3450 Holzminden **) From Dynamit Nobel, Witten plant, D-581 Witten / Ruhr ***) From HACOBA AG, CH-4002 Basel ****) Decyl oleate from Henkel KGaA, D-4000 Düsseldorf 1 The components of this preparation were carried out at room temperature Stir mixed together.

Example 13 (Nourishing Lipstick) Eosine 30 g pigments and color lakes 60 g castor oil 140 g oleyl alcohol 160 g carnauba wax 90 g lanolin anhydr. 120 g Beeswax 14p g "Comperlan HS" *) 40 g ozokerite 70 g "PCL, solid" **) 90 g rosin 20 g "Anoxol" 10 g Nerolidol 40 g perfume 10 g 1020 g ====== *) From Henkel KGaA, D-4000 Düsseldorf 1 **) From Dragoco Gerberding & Co. GmbH, D-3450 Holzminden Manufacture: Pigments and color lakes were mixed thoroughly, through a fine Strained a sieve, wetted with part of the oleyl alcohol and put in a colloid mill grind. Then the color mass was added to the other raw materials and with melted this while stirring well. The lipstick mass obtained was added to the preheated molds poured, which were then cooled. After reaching the At room temperature, the pins were removed from the molds and flamed with a Bunsen burner, their surface finish has been improved.

Claims (9)

Patent claims 1. Cosmetic preparation, characterized in that that it contains nerol 1 ol, its ester and / or ether as a skin care component. 2. Cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that that it contains 0.01 to 20% by weight of nerolidol, its esters and / or ethers. 3. Cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that that it contains 0.5 to 1.0% by weight of nerolidol, its esters and / or ethers. 4. Cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that that it contains collages. 5. Cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that that it contains Natural Moisture Factor. 6. Cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that that it contains collagen and natural moisture factor. 7. Cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that that it contains panthenol. 8. Cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that that it contains collagen and panthenol. 9. Cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that that it is in the form of a care product.