DE2425591A1 - SKIN PRODUCTS - Google Patents

Description

PAT E N TA N \ C'Ä LT Γ;

DR. ING. A.VAN DERWERTH DR. FRANZ LEDERER

2t HAMBURG 9O 8 MUNICH 8O

WILSTORFER STR 32 TEL. (0 40) 77O86I LUCILE-GRAHN-STR. 22 - TEL. IO891 * 7 29 * 7

Munich, May 27, 1974 J4-26

■ UNILEVER N.V.

Burgemeester s ¹ Jacobplein 1, Eotterdam The Netherlands

Skin remedies

The invention relates to skin treatment compositions and, more particularly, to cosmetic gowns that are used when applied to the skin have a moisturizing effect.

The softness and flexibility of young skin depends on it to a large extent from the moisture present in the skin and retained by the skin. With increasing age the level of moisture retained by the skin decreases, and the skin becomes progressively dry, wrinkled and less flexible.

In experiments using both human and animal skin, it was found that the content of Inositol, which is a natural, biosynthetic component of young skin tissue also decreases with age.

409881/1101

■ Z -

Furthermore, in vitro and in vivo experiments have shown that that the capacity of the skin to bind moisture can be increased by applying inositol to the skin the effect that the so treated skin appears rejuvenated because it appears softer and smoother than expected, namely Because of the increased ability to retain moisture, the skin may also appear less oily when it is is treated with inositol.

The invention therefore relates to an aqueous skin moisturizing agent free of keto steroids, which is characterized in that that it contains inositol dispersed in a physiologically and cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Under the name "Inositol" (also as hexahydrocyclohexane, Meso-inositol or myo-inositol) the different isomers of inositol are to be understood as scyllo-inositol and the inositol derivative phosphatidylinositol. The preferred isomer for use in accordance with the invention is meso-inositol.

The amount of inositol present in agents according to the invention is usually from about 0.2 to about 20% by weight of the agent. The agent should preferably contain from about Λ to about 3 % by weight inositol.

In experiments using a cosmetic skin treatment agent, which contains less than about 0.2% by weight inositol did not show any noticeable improvement in water-binding capacity established. It was also seen that inositol contents above 20% by weight of the composition in general gave no further improvement in moisture retention or skin smoothness above that at Application of a content of 20 wt .-% was achieved.

409881/1101

According to a further embodiment of the invention can other skin moisturizers in the skin treatment cosmetic agent be entered according to the invention. Examples of other skin moisturizers are glutamic acid or salts or derivatives thereof and 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid. If such additional humectants are present, they will usually in quantities of about 0.5 to about 15% by weight and preferably added about 1 to about 6 wt .-% of the cosmetic skin agent.

Skin treatment compositions according to the invention should contain at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, of water.

Inositol and other humectants are dispersed in a physiologically acceptable aqueous vehicle, the nature of which depends on whether the cosmetic skin treatment agent is in the form of a cream, ointment, lotion or aerosol for more convenient handling by the manufacturer and more convenient application by the user. A preferred carrier is a vanishing cream type carrier, the nature of which is known per se to those skilled in the cosmetic field. Especially advantageous examples of such creams are creams \ which oil in water emulsion consisting of a, and they usually also contain an emulsifier and optionally a wax-like substance, a perfume, a preservative, a colorant, and also, of course, inositol, and optionally other, moisturizing Middle. Examples of an oil or a waxy substance, if present, are wax esters, steroid alcohols, fatty alcohols, triglyceride esters, phospholipids, esters of polyhydric alcohols, fatty alcohol esters, alkyl fatty esters, hydrocarbons, hydrophilic beeswax derivatives and silicone oils.

The skin treatment agent according to the invention is free from keto steroids, d. H. Steroids with a keto group in the 3 position.

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like ζ. B. Hydrocortisone and its derivatives.

British patent specification 868 283 has already been proposed been trying to incorporate inositol into ketosteroid-containing hair treatment agents.

The invention is illustrated by the following examples of cosmetic Skin treatment creams explained in more detail.

example 1

This example illustrates the preparation and formulation of a preferred cosmetic skin treatment cream according to of the invention and its classification by a test arbitration tribunal compared to a placebo cream that did not contain any moisturizing ingredient.

The test cream and the placebo cream were prepared by mixing the following ingredients to form products of the type made of a disappearing cream:

Table I. Placebo-
cream
Wt% experimental
cream
Wt% 18.4 Stearic acid 18.4 0.49 Cetyl alcohol 0.49 0.1 Nipagin 0.1 - Isopropyl myristate 2.0 0.55 Sodium hydroxide 0.9 1.10 Potassium hydroxide 1.3 1.00 glycerin 1.0 - Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid 1.0 - Inositol 1.0 - L-glutamic acid 4.0 0.3 Perfume 0.3 78.06 water 69.51

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The two creams were judged by an arbitral tribunal from 39 females with an average age of 40 "assessed which of either the experimental cream or the placebo cream on each forearm twice daily during applied over a 12 week period. The condition of the skin in each case was regularly checked by a dermatologist rated for (a) smoothness / roughness and (b) oiliness / dryness using arbitrary standards. In any case Neither the test subject nor the dermatologist knew which cream had been applied.

In the same way, each of the two creams was applied to the subject's face and their effect was also carried out the dermatologist in the form of values for oiliness / dryness and smoothness / roughness and also the extent of wrinkling classified around the eyes.

The results provided by the dermatologist were classified statistically, resulting in the following:

Test subjects, polygamy, used the experimental cream, showed:

(a) consistently less dry forearms,

(b) faces that were significantly less oily,

(c) Faces that are significantly smoother than test subjects who used the placebo cream, with these results at the end of the 12-week clinical Attempt were determined.

From this it follows that beneficial effects for the consumer as a result of a local application of inositol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and glutamic acid can be achieved on aging skin.

Example 2

Four further experimental creams, which were formulated according to the invention, were prepared from the following ingredients:

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Table II

Stearic acid

Cetyl alcohol isopropyl myrxstate myo-inositol Glutamic acid 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid Sodium hydroxide potassium hydroxide glycerine nipagin perfume water

18.40

18.40

18.40

18.40

0.49 - 0.90 0.49 - 0.90 0.49 - 4.00 0.49 2.00 1.30 2.00 - 1.30 2.00 0.90 '2.00 2.00 1.00 5.00 1.00 2.00 1.30 2.00 0.10 0.10 1.00 4.00 0.30 0.30 0.10 - 73.51 70.51 0.30 0.90 69.51 1.30 1.00 0.10 0.30 69.51

ro cn cn co

Each of these creams were beneficial in keeping dry skin moist.

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Claims (6)

Claims 1. Aqueous skin moisturizer free of keto steroids, characterized in that it contains inositol dispersed in a physiologically and cosmetically acceptable carrier. 2. skin moisturizing agent according to claim 1, characterized in that that the inositol constitutes from 0.2 to 20% by weight of the composition. 3. skin moisturizing agent according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the inositol from 1 to 5 wt .- / o des Means matter. 4 ·. Skin moisturizing agent according to claim 1, 2 or 3j thereby characterized that there is still a second skin moistening contains agent in the form of glutamic acid, glutamates, glutamine, 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid or mixtures thereof. 5. Skin moisturizing agent according to claim 4, characterized in that that the second skin moisturizer of 0.5 constitutes up to 15% by weight of the composition. 6. Skin moisturizing agent according to one of the preceding Claims, characterized in that the carrier is a cosmetic base of the vanishing cream type contains. 409881/1101