DE19846607B4 - Process for the preparation of a clear conditioning hair cleanser - Google Patents

Abstract

A process for producing a clear conditioning hair cleanser, characterized in that an aqueous base containing at least one cationic substantive dye and at least one nonionic and one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant, wherein the proportion of nonionic surfactant at least 50 wt .-% of the total surfactant content is, with a composition containing a mixture of at least one C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ alkyl ether sulfate (A) and at least one dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer (B) in a weight ratio of A: B from 5: 1 to 15: 1, mixed.

Description

The The present invention relates to methods for producing a clear, conditioning hair cleanser based on nonionic Surfactants.

Conditioning hair cleansers have been known for a long time. They usually contain anionic surfactants, in particular alkyl ether sulfates or their salts, and as conditioning cationic polymers, preferably cellulose ether derivatives of the type "Polymer JR ^R " or diallyldimethylammonium chloride polymers of the type "Merquat ^R ".

It has also been proposed, such hair cleanser on Base nonionic surfactants produce.

Here, surprisingly, showed that a portion of the polymers conventionally used as hair conditioning agents, namely, the diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride polymers, in particular polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride, which is also known under the trade name "Merquat 100 ^R", in anionic and nonionic bases is not compatible.

The EP 521 748 A1 , the EP 617 954 A1 , the DE 43 17 576 A1 the DE 694 03 017 T2 , the US 5,109,127 A , the US 5,190,747 A and the WO 93/19149 A1 describe detergent compositions containing nonionic, anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and copolymers of diallyldialkylammonium chloride.

From the DE 43 01 820 A1 For example, effervescent emulsions containing cationic polymers and anionic surfactants are known. This document says nothing about cleansing compositions and does not refer to amphoteric surfactants.

From the literature, z. B. from the "Encyclopedia of conditioning rinse ingredients" (Hunting, A., 1987, page 333) is known that homopolymers of Diallydialkyl ammonium chloride have a poor compatibility with anionic constituents and that the soprtion (absorption) by the nature of the surfactants and Salts contained in the composition is determined US 5,627,149 A the US 5,679,330 A the DE 196 11 558 A1 , the DE 197 10 873 A1 , the DE 295 13 333 U1 and the WO 94/06410 A1 disclose shampoo compositions containing anionic surfactants and homopolymers of diallyldialkylammonium chloride. However, the shampoo compositions of the above-mentioned patent publications are mainly composed of anionic surfactants, do not contain substantive hair dyes, are not transparent and do not rely on a nonionic / amphoteric surfactant mixture. In addition, an already formed complex of anionic surfactants and Homoplymeren of Diallyldialkylammoniumchlorids is not attached but this complex forms itself.

The The present invention is based on the problem, a method for producing a clear, conditioning hair cleanser to develop the nonionic surfactants and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer contains.

The solution to this problem is to provide a process for the preparation of a clear, conditioning hair-cleaning composition, wherein an aqueous base containing at least one cationic substantive dye and at least one nonionic and one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant, wherein the proportion of nonionic surfactant at least 50% by weight of the total surfactant content, having a composition comprising a mixture of at least one C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ alkyl ether sulfate (A) and a dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer (B) in a weight ratio of A: B of 5: 1 to 15 : 1, be mixed.

The dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer used is polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride, also known by the trade name "Merquat 100 ^R ".

Thereby Is it possible, in the middle instead of the otherwise maximum usable about 0.1 Wt .-% of the polymer up to 1.5 wt .-% of the same, calculated on the entire remedy to incorporate.

The Molecular weight of the polymer is preferably between about 50,000 and about 1,500,000, in particular between about 170,000 and about 1 000 000.

The method according to the invention for the preparation of the hair-cleaning composition is the following:
First, a mixture of C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ alkyl ether sulfate, preferably having an average degree of ethoxylation between 1 and 4, more preferably on average about 2 to 3 moles of ethylene oxide, wherein the alkyl group may preferably be a lauryl, myristyl or cocoalkyl, and the polydimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride in about equimolar ratio, corresponding to a weight ratio of 5: 1 to 15: 1, in particular 6: 1 to 10: 1, prepared and then with the shampoo base based on at least one nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant and a cationic substantive dye mixed.

The according to the inventive method manufactured hair cleanser contain cationic substantive Dyes for direct dyeing on hair.

It was in fact found that such so-called tinting shampoos a special brilliant, shiny and stable hair coloring across from known conventional tinting shampoos result.

in the Principle are all used in cosmetic detergents and cleansers nonionic surfactants also for use in the method according to the invention suitable.

Of the Proportion of these nonionic surfactants is at least 50 wt .-% of Total amount of surfactant and 2.5 to 25, preferably about 5 to 20, in particular between about 7.5 and 15% by weight, calculated on the total composition.

C ₈ -C ₂₀ -alkylpolyglucosides, corresponding to the general formula RO (R ¹ O) _t Z _x , where Z is a sugar radical having 5 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glucose, R is an alkyl group having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, R ^{1 is} preferably Ethylene or propylene radical, t is 0 to 10 and x is 1 to 5. A preferred alkyl polyglucoside has a C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical and a degree of condensation x of 1.25 to 1.6, where t is 0.

Further suitable nonionic surfactants are C ₈ -C ₂₀ -fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers such as, for example, the common names "laureth", myristeth "," coceth "," ceteth "," deceth "and" steareth "according to the CTFA nomenclature with the addition of the number Ethylene oxide molecules denoted alkyl polyglycol ethers, eg, "laureth-16", "oleth-12", "coceth-10", etc.

Of the average degree of ethoxylation is preferably between about 5 to 25, especially about 10 and 20.

Further suitable nonionic surfactants are amine oxides.

Such amine oxides have long been state of the art, for example C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkyldimethylamine oxides such as laurydimethylamine oxide, C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkylamidopropyl or -ethylamine oxides, C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkyldi (hydroxyethyl) - or - (hydroxypropyl) amine oxides , or amine oxides with ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups in the alkyl chain.

Such amine oxides, for example, under the names "Ammonyx ^®", "Aromox ^®" or "Genaminox ^®" in the trade.

Other nonionic surfactants are the known fatty acid polyglycol esters and fatty acid glyceride oxethylates which are preferably used in admixture with other nonionic surfactants, e.g. As the various sorbitan esters, such as Polyethylenglykolsorbitanstearinsäureester, or mixed condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, as they are, for example, under the trade name "Pluronics ^R " in circulation.

Further Nonionic surfactant components are, for example, fatty acid mono- and dialkanolamides, such as coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide and myristic fatty acid monoisopropanolamide, which are also used as additional foam boosters can be.

Preferably Mixtures of various nonionic surfactants are used.

In the method according to the invention are as further surfactant component amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants, preferably in an amount of about 1 to about 20, in particular from about 2 to about 15, for example about 2.5 to about 10 wt .-%, based on the total composition used.

When such are in particular the various known betaines such Fatty acid amidoalkylbetaines and Sulfobetaines, for example lauryl hydroxysulfobetaine; also long-chain alkyl amino acids such as Cocoaminoacetate, cocoaminopropionate and sodium cocoamphopropionate and acetate have been found to be suitable.

wobei R eine C₈-C₁₈-Alkylgruppe und n 1 bis 3 bedeuten, Specifically, Betaine's structure

wherein R represents a C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl and n is 1 to 3,

wobei R eine C₈-C₁₈-Alkylgruppe und n 1 bis 3 bedeuten,
und Amidoalkylbetaine der Struktur

wobei R eine C₈-C₁₈-Alkylgruppe und n 1 bis 3 bedeuten, verwendet werden.Sulfobetaines of the structure

where R is a C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl group and n is 1 to 3,
and amidoalkylbetaines of the structure

wherein R is a C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl group and n is 1 to 3, are used.

Prefers are fatty acid amidoalkylbetaines, especially cocoamidopropylbetaine, and cocoamphoacetate and propionate, in particular their sodium salts. Particularly preferred are mixtures from cocoamidopropylbetaine and cocoamphoacetate, in particular in the weight ratio 3: 1 to 1: 3, especially 2: 1 to 1: 1.

Next the essential nonionic and amphoteric or zwitterionic Surfactant ingredients, the compositions also contain anionic Surfactants, preferably in minor proportions.

Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, those of the carboxylate and alkyl phosphate type, especially of course those which are customarily used in shampoos, for example C ₈ -C ₂₀ -alkylpolyethercarboxylic acids or their salts of the formula R- (A) _n -O-CH ₂ COOX, wherein R is a C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl group, n is a number A is an ethylene and / or propylene oxide group, n is a number from 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 17, and XH or preferably a cation of the group sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium, which may optionally be hydroxyalkyl-substituted mean.

Such products have long been known and commercially, for example under the trade names "AKYPO ^® " and "AKYPO-SOFT ^® ".

Their proportion in the hair-cleaning agent is preferably 0.5 to 10, in particular 0.75 to 7.5 Wt .-%, calculated on the total composition.

Alkylamidopolyethercarbonsäuren and their salts are mild surfactants, especially for use in Shampoo, also known.

Preference is given to using C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ -alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids whose degree of ethoxylation n is 2 to 8.

Further anionic surfactants are the salts of long-chain mono- and dialkyl phosphates, the mild, skin-friendly Detergents, acyl isethionates, α-olefinsulfonates, sulfocuccinates, etc. As far as sulfates such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates used should, for compatibility reasons, their share be calculated to a maximum of 5% by weight on the total composition of the product, do not exceed.

An overview of the in liquid Body washes used in the respective surfactants is found in the rest in the monograph by K. Schrader, "Fundamentals and Formulations of Cosmetics", 2nd ed. (1989, Hüthig Book publishing house), S. 683 to 691.

A further preferred anionic surfactant group, which can additionally be used in the hair-cleansing composition in admixture with the surfactants present according to the invention, are C ₈ -C ₂₂ -acylaminocarboxylic acids or their water-soluble salts, preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 10, in particular 1 to 7.5% by weight, calculated on the total composition.

Particularly preferred here is N-lauroylglutamate, in particular as the sodium salt. Further suitable N-acylaminocarboxylic acids are, for example, N-lauroyl sarcosinate, NC ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -acylaspartic acid, N-myristoyl sarcosinate, N-oleoyl sarcosinate, N-lauroylmethylalanine, N-lauroyllysine and N-lauroylaminopropylglycine, preferably in the form of their water-soluble alkali metal or ammonium, especially sodium salts.

In the hair cleanser can Of course all usual, contained in such funds used substances.

When such are, for example, complexing agents, dyes, preservatives, pH regulator, viscosity regulator such as inorganic salts, as far as they are not anyway in the surfactant starting mixtures fragrances, pearlescing agents, thickeners, Humectants, vegetable and animal oils such as jojoba oil, etc. called.

Also, other conditioning agents such as nonionic polymers, eg. B. vinylpyrrolidone copolymers or amphoteric polymers may be included, as well as protein hydrolysates, which may also be derivatized cationic, z. B. the products sold under the name "Gluadin ^R " products. Mono- and oligosaccharides such as various sugars, also in the form of natural products such as honey, can be used.

As well is the addition of other cationic polymers, as far as they are compatible with Surfactant base are compatible, possible.

Examples of such further cationic polymers are, for. B. the well-known quaternary cellulose derivatives of the type "Polymer JR" and quaternized homo- and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, as they are under the trade name "Merquat ^® " commercially quaternary vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, especially with dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylates, as described known the name "Gafquat ^®", copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and Vinylimidazoliniummethochlorid offered under the trade name "Luviquat.RTM ^®" polyamino-polyamide derivatives, for example, copolymers of adipic acid dimethylaminohydroxypropyl, as sold under the name "Cartaretine ^® F" as well as bisquaternary long-chain ammonium compounds in the US 4,157,388 A described urea structure, which are under the trade name "Mirapol ^® A15" in the trade.

Reference is also made in this context to the in the DE 25 21 960 A1 . 28 11 010 A1 . 30 44 738 A1 and 32 17 059 A1 mentioned cationic polymers and in the EP 337 354 A1 on pages 3 to 7. It is also possible to use mixtures of different cationic polymers.

The cationic polymers include those in the EP 524 612 A2 described quaternization of graft polymers of organopolysiloxanes and Polyethyloxazolinen.

As amphoteric polymers which are used alone or in admixture with at least one other cationic, nonionic or anionic polymers, in particular copolymers of N-octylacrylamide, (meth) acrylic acid and tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate of the type "Amphomer ^® "; Copolymers of Methacryloylethylbetain and alkyl methacrylates of the type "Yukaformer ^® ", z. B. butyl methacrylate copolymers "Yukaformer ^®" AM75; Copolymers of carboxyl groups and sulfonic acid-containing monomers, eg. B. (meth) acrylic acid and itaconic acid, with basic groups, in particular amino groups, containing monomers such as mono- or dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylates or mono- or dialkylaminoalkyl (meth) acrylamides; Copolymers of N-octylacrylamide, methylmetharylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate and acrylic acid and those from US 3,927,199 A called known copolymers.

A Listing of such additives can also be found at Schrader, l. c., on pages 695 to 722.

One Another preferred ingredient is ethoxy diglycol, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight of the hair cleanser.

Finally, too still known polysiloxanes as conditioning agents in the liquid hair cleansing agents be used. Their preferred share lies approximately between 0.5 and about 5, in particular 1 to 3 wt .-% of the total composition. Suitable are both volatile as well as semi-volatiles cyclic or linear polysiloxanes, for example those under the Trivial names "Dimethicone" or "Phenyldimethicone" and "Cyclomethicone" known silicone oils.

Also suitable, for example, in the EP 398 177 A2 described silicone derivatives which are used there in combination with alkyl polyglucosides in liquid detergent compositions.

According to one another embodiment of the invention the hair cleaners also dyes for oxidative staining of Hair contains, so-called coloring shampoos.

Of the pH of the composition is in the usual range, d. h., preferably between about 3 to about 8.5, especially about 4.5 and 8.0 all about 5.5 and 7.5.

The The following example illustrates the invention.

Production Example A

A mixture was prepared by stirring together the following ingredients: Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (~ 2 EO units) 30 (% by weight) Polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-6) 4 water ad 100

This Each complex was described in the example below Shampoo composition dispersed and resulted in clear, stable preparations.

example 1

Conditioning tinting shampoo Composition according to Example A 5.0 (wt%) C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl polyglucoside (PD: ~ 1.45) 5.0 Laureth-16 5.0 Cocoamphoglycinate 2.0 C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ acyl glutamate, sodium salt 1.0 cocoamidopropyl 3.0 Cationic direct dye (Basic Red 76) 0.1 Perfume, preservative, neutralizing agent (pH ~ 6,7) qs water ad 100.0

It became a tinting shampoo get a stable, shiny red color hair and gave an excellent conditioning effect (volume, Handle, dry and wet combability, Elasticity) on the hair.

Claims (3)

A process for producing a clear conditioning hair cleanser, characterized in that an aqueous base containing at least one cationic substantive dye and at least one nonionic and one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant, wherein the proportion of nonionic surfactant at least 50 wt .-% of the total surfactant content is, with a composition containing a mixture of at least one C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ alkyl ether sulfate (A) and at least one dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer (B) in a weight ratio of A: B from 5: 1 to 15: 1, mixed. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that that the weight ratio from A: B is 6: 1 to 10: 1. Process according to Claim 1 or 2, comprising as constituent (A) a C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ -alkyl ether sulfate having an average degree of ethoxylation of between 1 and 4 or an alkali metal or ammonium salt thereof.