DE19610458C1 - Encapsulated natural wax mixtures for skin or hair cosmetic products - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic product for treating skin or hair contains an encapsulated active ingredient wax mixture (W) comprising (A) apple wax, (B) orange and/or lemon wax, and (C) jojoba oil.

Description

The subject of the present invention is a kosme a means of treating the skin or the hair containing an active ingredient complex, which consists of a wax combination enclosed in capsules Apple wax, orange wax and / or lemon wax and Jojoba oil is formed.

In cosmetics, waxes can provide diverse radio fulfill their requirements. For example, they can be used with tion in skin cosmetic products of refatting and Hydrophobing of the skin serve and in hair cosmetic Means a conditioning and care of the hair effect.

Due to the manufacturing method you can use the waxes in natural, chemically modified natural and synthetic Divide table waxes. To those for the cosmetics  Significant waxes include the mineral waxes and certain natural waxes animal or plant of origin.

Natural and chemically modified natural mineral Waxs come from non-renewable sources, or are made by this raw produced produced. Synthetic mineral waxes are often burdened with synthesis-related impurities.

The use of natural or chemically altered natural growth of animal or vegetable Origin avoids the aforementioned disadvantages of Mineral waxes and also meets the wishes Ver consumer groups after the use of natural, ecologically harmless, that is, renewable, Contrary to raw materials.

The most famous animal wax is beeswax, its availability as a waste product of However, bees is limited. In addition, that contains Beeswax high levels of esters, giving stability Beeswax-containing cosmetic agent disadvantageous can influence.

Currently the most common in cosmetic products used, commercially available plant  Waxes are the candelilla and carnauba wax. These waxes, however, are hard and brittle, have one high melting point and are in usual cosmetic Means poorly emulsifiable.

It has now been found that a wax combination of Apple wax, orange wax and / or lemon wax and Jojoba oil does not have the aforementioned disadvantages having.

In addition, in the inventive Medium used wax combination a synergistic Increasing the skin-protecting, skin-care and hair care effect against the individual compo Nenten, for example, from DE-OS 42 06 154 known apple wax.

Furthermore, conventional cosmetic agents have the Disadvantage that not all raw and active ingredients arbitrary are combinable, since there are unwanted changes between them, or because they are pH-sensitive. This is the selection suitable components and thus also their optimal Effect severely limited.

It is known to circumvent these disadvantages More use but which in the Manufacture are complex and expensive. It is also  it is known to introduce individual active ingredients into gelatine capsules close, but there are problems regarding a light and residue-free application and Spreadability of the active ingredients can come.

From DE 41 22 591 C1 it is known active ingredients in encapsulate water-insoluble polymer particles and in to use this form in cosmetic products.  

It has now been found that the above Wax combination especially good in suitable capsules which allows good compatibility with other, usable in cosmetic means Fabrics is achieved and at the same time a light and residue-free application and distribution of the wax combination on the skin or hair is.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic agent for the treatment of the skin or the Hair containing a complex of active substances, which consists of a wax enclosed in capsules combination is formed and wherein the wax combination nation out

• a) apple wax
• b) orange wax and / or Lemon wax and
• c) jojoba oil exists.

Preferably, the capsules are water-insoluble Made of polymers, more preferably they are made microcrystalline cellulose and contain Hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose and lactose as an adjuvant substances. Suitable capsules are, for example, under the trade name Unispheres, in particular Unispheres UFW-523 and Unispheres RFW-522 from the company Induchem, Dübendorf / Switzerland.

There are several methods in the literature Preparation of drug-loaded capsules described. The encapsulation of the wax combination According to the invention, according to one of these methods respectively. These include, for example, chemical Method, wherein the product to be encapsulated in a is given liquid medium in which to the Product around a capsule forming the wall Coacervate trains or the capsule wall gets through Copolymerization of ent in the liquid medium formed monomers. It can also be one of the known mechanical encapsulation method be used. For this, the to be encapsulated For example, substances in fine particles centri fugiert and passed through a thin film that out the capsule wall forming material or the substance to be encapsulated is atomized in vacuo,  wherein a coating is deposited by electrostatic means puts. A suitable method is for example the in DE 41 22 591 described. Especially preferred is an encapsulation process in which all used substances in the presence of water be mixed together and the capsules through the Fluidized bed rotation process can be produced.  

The capsules can be 0.01 to 30 weight percent, before preferably 0.1 to 20 percent by weight of the wax combination tion based on the capsule weight. The Inventive agent preferably contains from 0.01 to 50 percent by weight of this complex of active ingredients. Especially preferred is a content of 0.03 to 20 weight percent this complex of active ingredients.

The agent according to the invention has the advantage that itself the active substance complex easily and without residue on the Apply to skin or hair and spread. except It is easy to make clear gels.

The active ingredient contained in the agent according to the invention Stoffkomplex shows a skin-protecting effect and has a weaker occlusive effect than the  commonly used in cosmetics Vaseline.

This complex of active ingredients is therefore part of it skin-protecting and skin care cosmetic product excellent.

As a component of cosmetic hair care and hair cleaning agent improves the inventive Active substance complex the wet and dry combability as well the handle of the hair and protects the hair from the Effects of cosmetic treatments such as bleaching, Perming, dyeing and washing with degreasing Surfactants.

The agent according to the invention can be used, for example as Means for the care or protection of the skin, such as Example as day cream, night cream, skin cream, sun protective cream, lip balm or make-up Preparations such as make-up cream or rouge; as hair and / or body cleanser, such as Shampoo, shower bath, bubble bath or cleansing lotion; when Hair treatment agents, such as hair oil, Brillantine, gel or hair wax, as a hair care product, for example as a hair conditioner and hair conditioner or as Bleaching agents, permanent shaping agents, fixing agents, as Hair dye or hair coloring present.  

If the agent according to the invention is a emulsion-based skin protection or skin care product is, the agent according to the invention preferably contains 0.02 to 15% by weight of the active ingredient complex.

Is it in the inventive agent to a Hair or body cleanser or a hair care products, it preferably has a content of 0.02 to 4 percent by weight of the active ingredient complex.

An inventive hair and / or body cleaning In addition to medium contains 0.02 to 4 weight percent of the active substance complex, preferably 0.01 to 40 weight percent, particularly preferably 0.01 to 25 weight percent, at least one anionic, cationic, amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactant and 50 to 90 weight percent water.

The hair and / or body cleansing according to the invention has a pH of 3 to 8, preferably from 4 to 7 on.

Solar oils according to the invention preferably contain 0.1 to 20 percent by weight of the active substance complex, fiction appropriate hair oils, brilliants, hair gels and hair waxes contain preferably 1 to 19 percent by weight of the active cloth complex.  

Inventive Dauerverformungs- and fixing preferably have a content of 0.05 to 5 weight percent of the active ingredient complex.

When the agent according to the invention as a means for dur Adhere to deformation of the hair, it contains in addition to 0.05 to 5% by weight of the invention Active ingredient complex according to the invention 0.5 to 15 weight percent of at least one keratin-reducing mercapto compound and is preferably an aqueous, alkaline (pH = 5 to 10) set preparation, which as a keratin-reducing mercapto compound, for example cysteine, cysteamine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, mercapto carboxylic acids, such as thioglycolic acid or Thiolactic acid, or salts of mercaptocarboxylic acids, such as ammonium and guanidine salts of thio glycolic acid or thiolactic acid.

The required alkalinity is here by the Addition of ammonia, organic amines, ammonium and Alkali carbonates or bicarbonates set. But it also comes a neutral or sour (pH = 4.5 to 7) adjusted hair shaping agent in Consider that in the aqueous medium an effective content having sulfites or mercaptocarboxylic acid esters.  

In the former case, preferably sodium or Ammonium sulfite or the salt of sulfurous acid with an organic amine, such as monoethanol amine and guanidine, at a concentration of about 2 used up to 12 weight percent (calculated as SO₂). In the latter case, in particular, thioglycol acid monoglycol ester or glycerol ester in one Concentration of about 5 to 50 percent by weight (corresponding to a content of free thioglycolic acid from 2 to 16% by weight) for use.

The inventive composition for permanent hair ver Forming can also be a mixture of the above contain keratin-reducing compounds.

After one for the permanent deformation of the hair sufficient exposure time, which, depending on the hair texture, the pH and the deformation effect sity of the deforming agent and in dependence from the application temperature, about 10 to 30 minutes is, the hair is rinsed with water and then Oxidatively post-treated ("fixed"). The Nachbe Actions will, depending on hair fullness, in an amount used from about 50 to 100 g.

For the oxidative after-treatment, a fiction, appropriate fixative or any previously for  such a treatment used fixative be used. Examples of such Fixing agents usable oxidizing agents are sodium and Potassium bromate, sodium perborate, urea peroxide and Hydrogen peroxide.

The concentration of the oxidizing agent is in Ab Dependent on the application time (usually about 5 to 15 minutes) and the application temperature differently. Usually, the oxide lies tion agent in the aqueous fixative in a Concentration of about 0.5 to 10 weight percent before, wherein a fixing agent according to the invention additionally 0.05 to 5 percent by weight of the invention Wax combination contains.

Both the inventive agent for permanent Hair deformation as well as the fixation according to the invention may be in the form of an aqueous solution or emulsion and in thickened form on an aqueous basis, in particular These are present as cream, gel or paste.

Then the winder is removed. If he does Required, the unwound hair can now again be treated oxidatively. Then the hair becomes rinsed with water, put on a hairdo and finally dried.  

The method described above for permanent Hair deformation allows a gentle and equal moderate deformation from the hairline to the hair tips, the hair shows excellent wet and dry combing availability, a pleasant grip and a pleasing Gloss in the dried state as well as a loose, erratic and uniform Dauerwellung, in particular in the area of the hair tips.

A bleaching agent according to the invention, oxidation hair colorant or hair tinting agent preferably contains 0.05 to 5 percent by weight of the active compound according to the invention cloth complex.

A hair tinting agent according to the invention contains additional Lich to the drug complex 0.05 to 2.0 Gewichtspro at least one of them directly on the hair Hair dye, for example, from the following Classes directly on the hair-raising hair dyes may be selected from: aromatic nitro dyes, for Example 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, azo dyes, for Example Acid Brown 4 (C.I. 14,805), anthraquinone dyes, for example Disperse Violet 4 (C.I. 61-105), triphenylmethane dyes, for example Basic Violet 1 (C.I., 42,535), the dyes being each by the nature of their substituents acidic, nonionic  or basic character, and / or natural hair dye, such as henna and reng, which does not require oxidation for color development.

The agent of the invention may be in any suitable for skin and hair treatment agents preparation form, for example in the form of an aqueous alcoholic or alcoholic solution, as an emulsion, as a cream or as a gel.

The composition according to the invention may also contain parts common for hair and skin treatment compositions, for example solvents, such as water and lower aliphatic alcohols, for example ethanol, propanol and isopropanol, or glycols, such as glycerol and 1,2-propylene glycol; Wetting agents or emulsifiers from the classes of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, such as fatty alcohol sulfates, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkyltrimethyl ammonium salts, alkyl betaines, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, ethoxylated nonylphenols, fatty acid alkanolamides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters, in an amount of 0.1 to 30 weight percent; Perfume oils in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 percent by weight; Opacifiers, such as ethylene glycol distearate, in an amount of about 0.2 to 5.0 percent by weight; Pearlescing agents, such as a mixture of fatty acid monoalkylolamide and ethylene glycol distearate, in an amount of about 1.0 to 10 weight percent; bactericidal and fungicidal agents, such as 2,4,4-trichloro-2-hydroxy diphenyl ether or methylchloroisothiazolinone, in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0 weight percent; Thickening agents, such as coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, in an amount of about 0.2 to 3.0 percent by weight; Buffer substances such as sodium citrate or sodium phosphate, in an amount of 0.1 to 1.0 Ge weight percent; Solubilizers, such as ethoxylated castor oil, in an amount of about 0.1 to 1.0 percent by weight; Staining agents, such as fluorescein sodium salt, in an amount of about 0.1 to 1.0 percent by weight; Conditioners such as cationic resins, lanolin derivatives in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight; Light stabilizers, humectants, antioxidants, complexing agents and anti-scale agents in an amount of about 0.01 to 2 weight percent and also physiologically tolerable organic acids, such as formic acid, glyoxylic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, natural, modified natural or synthetic polymers, such as shellac, cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers, chitosan, chitin or chitosan derivatives.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of Explain the invention.

Examples example 1 ingredient complex

15 g apple wax
45 g of orange wax
40 g

jojoba oil
100 g

enclosed in 1,000 g of cellulose capsules, Hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose and lactose (Unispheres the company Induchem / Dübendorf, Switzerland).

Example 2 ingredient complex

8 g apple wax
40 g of orange wax
52 g

jojoba oil
100 g

enclosed in 500 g of cellulose capsules, hydroxy propyl methyl cellulose and lactose (Unispheres der Company Induchem / Dübendorf, Switzerland).  

Example 3 ingredient complex

20 g apple wax
30 g lemon wax
50 g

jojoba oil
100 g

included in 770 g of cellulose, hydroxy capsules propyl methyl cellulose and lactose (Unispheres der Company Induchem / Dübendorf, Switzerland).

Example 4 ingredient complex

12 g apple wax
48 g of lemon wax
40 g

jojoba oil
100 g

enclosed in 556 g of cellulose capsules, hydroxy propyl methyl cellulose and lactose (Unispheres der Company Induchem / Dübendorf, Switzerland).  

Example 5 Skin cream with protective effect

10.00 g Active substance complex according to Example 1 8.30 g Glycerin stearate, self-emulsifying 1.70 g a mixture of glyceryl hydroxystearate, cetyl palmitate, microcrystalline wax and trihydroxystearin 1.50 g stearin 7.50 g liquid paraffin 0.10 g p-hydroxybenzoate 0.30 g p-hydroxybenzoate 0.10 g allantoin 0.20 g perfume oil  70.30 g Water, demineralized 100.00 g

Example 6 Skin cream with protective effect

12.00 g of active ingredient complex according to Example 4
7.00 g glycerol stearate, self-emulsifying
1.40 g stearin
7.60 g of liquid paraffin
0.10 g of propyl p-hydroxybenzoate
0.30 g of p-hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester
0.10 g of allantoin
0.20 g of perfume oil
71.30 g

Water, demineralized
100.00 g

Example 7 Sunscreen cream (oil-in-water emulsion)

7.00 g of glyceryl stearate
2.50 g of cetylstearyl alcohol
Oxethylated 1.80 g of cetylstearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide
Oxethylated 1.40 g of cetylstearyl alcohol with 12 moles of ethylene oxide
8.00 g of active ingredient complex according to Example 1
6.50 g of mixed triesters of glycerol with capric acid and caprylic acid
7.50 g mixture of the esters of capric acid and caprylic acid with coconut alcohol
6.20 g of dibutyl adipate
3.80 g octyldodecanol
2.50 g of dimethylpolysiloxane
3.80 g of 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester
2.70 g of glycerol
46.30 g

Water, demineralized
100.00 g

Example 8 shampoo

2.74 g sodium lauryl ether sulfate
0.03 g of benzoic acid
1.50 g of coconut fatty acid amidopropyl betaine
2.00 g of ethylene glycol distearate
0.80 g of active ingredient complex according to Example 3
0.40 g of perfume oil
3.30 g of sodium chloride
89.23 g

Water, demineralized
100.00 g

Example 9 Hair Conditioner

3.50 g of cetylstearyl alcohol
0.70 g of active ingredient complex according to Example 4
0.60 g of cetyltrimethylammonium chloride
0.40 g of citric acid
0.40 g of perfume oil
94.40 g

Water, demineralized
100.00 g

Example 10 Hair Conditioner

2.50 g of cetylstearyl alcohol
0.80 g of lauryl alcohol diglycol ether
1.10 g Vaseline
1.20 g of active ingredient complex according to Example 4
0.40 g of cetylstearyl sulfate sodium salt
5.00 g betaine monohydrate
0.20 g of benzoic acid
0.80 g of glyoxylic acid
0.20 g of perfume oil
87.80 g

Water, demineralized
100.00 g

Example 11 non-rinsable care product

0.50 g of active ingredient complex according to Example 2
0.50 g of polyacrylic acid
0.40 g of 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol
0.10 g of vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer
0.20 g hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated with 45 moles of ethylene oxide
0.25 g of D-panthenol
0.05 g of lauryl polyglucose
12.00 g of ethanol
86.00 g

water
100.00 g

Example 12 hair styling gel

0.80 g of active ingredient complex according to Example 3
3.00 g of polyvinylpyrrolidone
0.50 g polyacrylic acid (CTFA: carbomer)
12.00 g of ethanol
0.20 g of perfume oil
0.10 g of ammonia
83.40 g

water
100.00 g

Example 13 Hair care products, do not rinse

0.70 g of active ingredient complex according to Example 2
0.10 g of keratin hydrolyzate
0.40 g of cetyltrimethylammonium chloride
0.28 g of isopropanol
0.33 g of coconut fatty acid amidopropyl betaine
0.90 g of polyvinylpyrrolidone
0.20 g of citric acid
97.09 g

water
100.00 g

Example 14 Hair care products, do not rinse

0.80 g of active ingredient complex according to Example 1
0.80 g of polyvinylpyrrolidone
0.32 g of vinylimidazolinium methochloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer
0.21 g of coconut fatty acid amidopropyl betaine
0.20 g of keratin hydrolyzate
12.00 g of ethanol
0.20 g of glyoxylic acid
85.47 g

water
100.00 g

Example 15 Permanent shaping agent

0.70 g of active ingredient complex according to Example 2
8.82 g of thioglycolic acid
0.90 g of castor oil derivatized with 35 moles of polyethylene glycol (CTFA: PEG-35-caster oil)
0.90 g of polyethylene glycol (23) nonylphenol ether
0.90 g of poly (diallyldimethylammonium chloride)
0.28 g of styrene / polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymer
0.15 g of ammonia
3.50 g of ammonium bicarbonate
0.50 g of perfume oil
83.35 g

water
100.00 g

Example 16 Fixing agent for permanent deformation (Neutralizing agent)

1.100 g of active ingredient complex according to Example 1
2.610 g of cetylstearyl alcohol
0.290 g of sodium lauryl sulfate
0.400 g lanolin alcohol
1,900 g of hydrogen peroxide
0.085 g of phosphoric acid
0.100 g of salicylic acid
0.300 g perfume oil
93.215 g

water
100,000 g

Example 17 Hair tints

0.6000 g of active ingredient complex according to Example 3
4.5000 g of cetylstearyl alcohol
1,750 g of cetyltrimethylammonium chloride
4.2250 g of isopropanol
0.0025 g Basic Violet 14 (CI No. 42510)
88.9225 g

water
1000000 g

Example 18 oxidative hair dye (dark brown)

0.80 g of active ingredient complex according to Example 2
17.10 g of cetylstearyl alcohol
1.90 g of sodium lauryl sulfate
2.10 g lanolin alcohol
6.10 g glyceryl stearate, self-emulsifying
0.40 g sodium salt of coconut fatty acid ester of isethionic acid (CTFA: sodium cocoylisethionate)
1.40 g sodium lauryl ether sulfate
1.40 g of ammonia
0.06 g of p-aminophenol hydrochloride
0.65 g of p-toluenediamine sulfate
0.26 g resorcinol
0.60 g of sodium sulfite
0.30 g of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
6.00 g of isopropanol
0.30 g of perfume oil
60.63 g

water
100.00 g

Before use, 50 g of the above agent mixed with 50 ml of hydrogen peroxide (6% solution).

Unless otherwise noted, all percent indicate weight percentages.

Claims (11)

1. A cosmetic composition for the treatment of the skin or the hair containing an active ingredient complex, which is formed from a capsule in closed wax combination and wherein the wax combination of

• a) apple wax
• b) orange wax and / or lemon wax and
• c) jojoba oil exists.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized that the capsules of water-insoluble polymers are constructed. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized that the capsules of microcrystalline cellulose, Hydroxypropyl-methylcellulose and lactose auf are building.   4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized characterized in that the capsules with 0.01 to 30 weight percent of wax combination loaded on the capsule weight are. 5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized characterized in that it is 0.01 to 50% by weight the capsules loaded with the wax combination contains.   6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized characterized in that it is an emulsion-shaped Skin protection or skincare is and 0.02 to Contains 15 percent by weight of the active ingredient complex. 7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized characterized in that it is a hair care product with a content of 0.02 to 4 weight percent of Active complex is. 8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is a hair and / or body cleanser and
0.02 to 4% by weight of the active ingredient complex
0.01 to 40% by weight of at least one anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactant or a mixture of two or more of these surfactants and
50 to 90 percent by weight of water
contains. 9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises a permanent shaping agent with a content
0.05 to 5 percent by weight of the active ingredient complex
0.5 to 15 weight percent of at least one keratin-reducing mercapto compound. 10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized characterized in that it is a bleaching agent, a Oxidative hair dye or a hair tint medium with a content of 0.05 to 5 weight percent of the active substance complex. 11. Composition according to claim 8, characterized that it is a hair tonic and in addition 0.05 to 2 percent by weight of one directly on the Hair-pulling hair dye and / or natural contains hair dye.