DE10259966A1 - Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing mycosporin-like amino acids, useful for treatment and prevention of hypoxia and associated conditions, improves oxygen uptake - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition (A) for improving oxygen uptake contains mycosporin-like amino acids (I).

Description

The present invention relates to Mycosporine-like amino acids cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations for improvement oxygen intake in humans or animals, for prophylactic and / or therapeutic treatment of hypoxia as well as through Hypoxia-related or favored undesirable physical states; also pharmaceuticals, food, animal nutrition, food supplements, Hand washing detergents, dishwashing detergents, Containing cosmetics or personal care products Mycosporine-like amino acids as agents used to improve oxygen uptake.

From the DE-A-100 55 558 the applicant is known to extract an extract from the green algae Prasiola crispa ssp. antarctica and at least one mycosporin-like amino acid (MAA) in a sunscreen.

Sunscreen containing MAAs are also described in WO 88/02251 and WO 02/39974. In WO 88/02251 explains that certain Mycosporine-amino acids, that occur in the living tissue of the Pacific staghorn coral Acropora formosa, act as UV-absorbing agents in corals that make the shallow Inhabit waters of tropical coral reefs and that these Naturally occurring enaminoketone compounds as commercial UV agents possibly are beneficial, although it is difficult to get them from their biological Isolate sources.

So far, use of mycosporin has been more similar amino acids only described in connection with UV protection or sun protection Service.

In eukaryotes, the oxidation of hydrogen to water is the main route for cellular energy generation. Insufficient oxygen supply to the organism leads to insufficient energy supply with restriction of cellular functions up to cell death. Symptoms of general hypoxia are, for example, those listed in Table 1 below, which is taken from the website http://www.gesundheit.de/roche/ro15000/r17430.html (as of December 12, 2002)

Hypoxia or anoxia become medical fought by hyperbaric oxygen treatment. The hyperbaric oxygen treatment takes place at an elevated Ambient pressure instead, there is a normal or an increased oxygen concentration. Since oxygen has considerable toxicity, this is the Risk of lung damage (Lorrain-Smith effect).

Oxygen is primarily produced by humans breathed in and over distributes the blood circulation in the organism. The supply of the upper Human skin layers, on the other hand, take place through direct absorption of the atmospheric Oxygen over the diffusion into the skin. about This diffusion becomes the epidermis and the upper part of the dermis provided (Stucker et al., J. Physiol. (2002), 538: 985-94). A insufficient oxygen supply (hypoxia) to the cells in the skin is with a loss of homeostasis the skin (Yamanaka and Ishikawa, J. Dermatol. Sci. (2000), 24: 99-104). Among other things, there is a reduced mRNA expression of the procollagens a1 (I) and a1 (III). Decreased collagen production is typical Hallmarks of aged skin; as a cause of decreased collagen production the reduced oxygen uptake by cells of aged skin applies.

To oxygenate the skin to be improved include cosmetic active ingredient formulations developed Service. The formulations are usually based on substances the above release oxygen continuously for a certain period of time and so increase the local oxygen concentration in the skin. Herewith disadvantageously, however, increased production is more damaging to cells reactive oxygen species.

So far, no active ingredients for cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations that describe the ability of cells increase atmospheric Absorb oxygen.

Surprisingly was found to be mycosporin-like amino acids (MAA), especially those extracted from the algae Hoshi Nori be able to, the ability of cells to increase oxygen uptake and thereby cellular oxygen status to improve. The heightened The oxygen content is advantageously not increased Coupled production of reactive oxygen species.

The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation (compositions) for improvement the oxygen uptake in humans or animals characterized by this is, that you Mycosporine-like amino acids contains.

The improvement is preferably used oxygen intake for prophylactic and / or therapeutic Treatment of hypoxia and hypoxia-related or beneficial unwanted physical States.

Within the scope of the present invention the term "hypoxia" becomes broader used and includes both the term "anoxia" and the term "hypoxemia".

The preparation according to the invention can be chemical synthesized or from natural Sources-minded mycosporin-like amino acids (MAA) included. The MAA can the preparation according to the invention added in pure form or as an extract containing further substances become. The MAA can individually or in combination with each other or with other substances containing extracts for the preparation of the preparation according to the invention be used.

Natural sources for extraction from MAA, which are used to produce the preparation according to the invention can be are selected among eukaryotic algae, especially tropical macroalgae (Phycological Research 1998, 46, 271-279); arctic marine organisms (Marine Biology 108, 157-166 (1991)), like protozoa, shells and others; Fishing (Journal of chromatography, 250: 113-118 (1982); mushrooms; marine heterotrophic bacteria; Cyanobacteria and one Numerous other marine organisms (Sinha, R. P .; Klisch, M .; Hader, D.-P. Induction of a mycosporine-like amino acid (MAA) in the rice field cyanobacterium Anabaena sp. by UV irradiation. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, B: Biology (1999), 52 (1-3), 59-64. CODEN: JPPBEG ISSN: 1011-1344. CAN 132: 204893 AN 2000: 50192 CAPLUS and literature cited therein). On the literature cited above is hereby incorporated in its entirety Referred.

For the preparation of the preparation according to the invention are also in the DE-T2-37 88 568 Cyclic vinylogenic amide compounds mentioned of the formula I, which contain a tetrahydropyridine radical, are suitable, in particular those in Tables Ia and 1b (pages 35 to 38) of the DE-T2-37 88 568 defined connections. At the revelation of the DE-T2-37 88 568 reference is hereby made in full.

Further suitable according to the invention Mycosporine-like amino acids are the MAA of formula I listed in WO 02/39974 A1, in particular the MAA mentioned on page 4 in Table 1 of WO 02/39974 A1. On the disclosure of WO 02/39974 A1 is also hereby in full Scope referred.

Particularly preferred MAA for manufacturing the preparation according to the invention are selected taking palythin, palythin-serine, palythinol, Asterina-330, mycosporin-2-glycine, Shinorin, Porphyra-334, N-methyl-mycosporin-serine, N-methyl-mycosporin-threonine, Mycosporine-glycine-valine, palythenic acid, usijiren and palythen, especially mycosporin-2-glycine, shinorin and porphyra-334, especially preferably Porphyra-334.

An MAA-containing extract from one of the natural sources mentioned above, in particular from algae, preferably from, is likewise preferably suitable for producing the preparation according to the invention Algae of the genera Macrocystis, Himanthalia, Fucus, Ascophyllum, Gracilaria, Gelidium, Pterocladia, Ahnfeltia, Chondrus, Mastocarpus, Phyllophora or Gymnogongrus; particularly preferably from the red algae Porphyra or Euchema or the brown algae Laminaria or Undaria; very particularly preferably from the algae available under the trade name "Hoshi Nori" (Porphyra sp.).

Extract the MAA from the above called natural Sources take place according to methods known to the person skilled in the art, in particular through mechanical crushing and use of aqueous, alcoholic or organic Extractant. Preferred extractants are acetone, ethanol, Propanol, methanol or dichloromethane. Then a purification the desired one MAA, for example by reverse phase chromatography RPC).

The concentration of the extract in the preparation according to the invention can range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5 % By weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight, very particularly preferred 0.01 to 3% by weight.

The preparation according to the invention can be used in humans or animal intraperitoneally, orally, buccally, rectally, intramuscularly, topically, Subcutaneously, inhalatively, intra-articularly or intravenously become. The application can be in the form of tablets, coated tablets, capsules, Solutions, Dispersions (suspensions or emulsions), ointments, creams, aqueous Surfactant preparations, milk, lotion, balm, gels, granules, powders, Stick preparations, such as B. lipsticks, foams, Aerosols, sprays, inhalation preparations or suppositories.

A preferred application of the preparation according to the invention is the topical application on epithelial cover tissue.

Within the scope of the present invention becomes under the epithelial cover tissue on the one hand that covers the outer body surface Skin (consisting of subcutis, corium and epidermis) understood, on the other hand the tissue lining the hollow organs and body cavities, including the Epithelia of the uterus and the mouth.

Hypoxia leads to increased expression of genes that play a role in angiogenesis and become one lead to improved blood supply to underserved cells. Matrix metalloproteases (MMPs) in particular are synthesized to an increased extent, for the new formation of vessels the breakdown extracellular Support matrix. The expression of MMPs is induced in the state of hypoxia; from the MAA treatment according to the invention in contrast, there follows a reduced expression of these proteases.

Play matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) play an important role in the development and course of periodontitis. Periodontal disease is an infectious disease that is caused in most cases is caused by the bacteria Porphyramonas gingivalis, Bacteroides forsythus and Actinobacillus actinomycetemcomitans. The presence of the Bacteria is a necessary, but not a sufficient precondition for the Onset of the disease. The continuous distribution of harmful Substances, especially lipopolysaccharides, activated by the bacteria the host's immune system and triggers the discharge of inflammatory mediators and MMPs by the Monocytes. Activate pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-1β and TNF-α again the fibroblasts of the surrounding tissue, which in turn the distribution of MMPs. The result is an increase in the activity of MMPs and the destruction of the surrounding tissue.

In the early stages of periodontosis arises from the MMP-mediated dissolution of small amounts of the connecting Epithelial tissue between the gums and the surface of the tooth root Bag that gives the bacteria access to the underlying layers procured and thus allowed the progression of the disease. The Reduction of destruction the extracellular Prevention matrix or combat of hypoxia in cells of the oral mucosa and gums by using a preparation according to the invention or a agent according to the invention is therefore a promising approach to treatment and prophylaxis of paradontosis.

Hypoxia also causes decreased Collagen production and is therefore an accelerator of skin aging. A preparation according to the invention counteracts hypoxia and is therefore an effective anti-aging agent, especially an effective anti-aging agent.

A suboptimal cellular oxygen uptake is also generally performance-reducing and especially with mental and physically particularly stressed people disadvantage. A preparation according to the invention is therefore an effective means of increasing mental and physical performance, especially to improve the oxygen supply to the brain and to increase athletic performance, particularly preferably the aerobic performance, very particularly preferred sexual performance and for the prophylaxis and therapy of erectile dysfunctions.

The preparations according to the invention can be prepared by the skilled worker can be combined with suitable other active ingredients, to the one you want Increase effect.

It can be, for example, the following active ingredients, which in the DE-A-198 38 636 to which reference is hereby made in full:
Carotenoids, such as B. Bixin, zeaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, citranaxanthin, canthaxanthin, β-apo-4-carotinal, β-apo-8-carotenal, β-apo-8-carotenic acid ester, astaxanthin, individually or as a mixture.

Vitamins, e.g. B. Vitamin A, Vitamin A acetate, vitamin A palmitate, riboflavin, vitamin B12, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, nicotinic acid, nicotinamide, Pyridoxine hydrochloride, vitamin D3, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, Tocopherol palmitate, tocotrienol, vitamin K, thiamine, calcium pantothenate, Biotin, lipoic acid, folic acid, folic acid derivatives such as tetrahydrofolic acid, 5-methyl tetrahydrofolic acid, 10-formyl tetrahydrofolic acid or 5-formyl-tetrahydrofolic acid.

Compounds with a vitamin or coenzyme character, z. B. choline chloride, carnitine, taurine, creatine, ubiquinone, S-methylmethionine, S-adenosylmethionine.

Polyunsaturated fatty acids, e.g. B. linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, Docosahexaenoic acid.

Components of the garlic, e.g. B. Diallyl thiosulfinate, S-allylcysteine sulfoxide, vinyl dithiines, ajoen.

Allithiamines such as benfotiamine, fursultiamine, Octotiamine or bentiamine.

Glutathione and its esters, such as z. B. GSH monomethyl ester, GSH dimethyl ester, GSH monoethyl ester, GSH diethyl ester.

For example, a preparation according to the invention an extract from leaves of the Temple tree (Ginkgo biloba) contain a sexual enhancer on the Basis of a preparation according to the invention can additionally Contain yohimbine and a means of increasing athletic capacity can additionally Contain substances that are selected are among Hypericin, Hyperforin or extracts from St. John's wort (Hypericum), protein powder, vitamins or minerals, "Branched chain amino acids "(BCAA), β-hydroxy-β-methylbutyrate (HMB), α-lipoic acid (ALA), Glutamine, taurine, glycerin or creatine, preferably creatine monohydrate.

Such a means to increase athletic performance can be used especially in sports, fitness and wellness areas Find use and in the form of tablets, dragees, capsules, solutions or emulsions taken or in sports, fitness and wellness supplements (Dietary supplements) be incorporated.

Another subject of the present Invention is a method of making a cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation for improving oxygen absorption in humans or animals, especially for prophylactic and / or therapeutic treatment of hypoxia and hypoxia-related or beneficiaries undesirable physical states which is characterized in that mycosporin-like Amino acids with cosmetically and pharmacologically suitable and compatible carriers mixed.

Another subject of the present Invention is the use of mycosporin-like amino acids for Improve oxygen uptake in animals and humans.

Another subject of the present Invention is the use of mycosporin-like amino acids for Production of food, animal food, food supplements, Hand washing detergents, hand dishwashing detergents, Cosmetics or personal care products, those when used as intended improve oxygen uptake.

Other, independent objects of the present invention are food, animal feed, Dietary supplements Medicines, hand washing detergents, hand dishwashing detergents, cosmetics or personal care products, containing mycosporin-like amino acids as agents counteracting hypoxia.

A preferred cosmetic according to the invention is a cream containing mycosporin-like amino acids as agents counteracting hypoxia.

A particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention is a night cream containing mycosporin-like amino acids agents counteracting hypoxia.

Depending on the type of formulation, the foods according to the invention, Animal food, food supplements or pharmaceuticals at least one other auxiliary or additive, such as B. oils, protective colloids, Contain plasticizers, antioxidants and / or emulsifiers.

In the case of a dispersion, in particular in the case of a suspension or emulsion, it is advantageous to add one physiologically compatible oil such as Sesame oil, Corn oil, cottonseed, soy or peanut oil, ester medium-chain vegetable fatty acids or fish oils such as Mackerel, sprat or salmon oil to use.

As protective colloids, for example Gelatin, fish gelatin, starch, Dextrin, vegetable proteins, pectin, gum arabic, casein, caseinate or mixtures thereof. However, polyvinyl alcohol, Polyvinyl pyrrolidone, methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and alginates are used. For more details, see R. A. Morton, Fat Soluble Vitamins, Intern. Encyclopedia of Food and Nutrition, Vol. 9, Pergamon Press 1970, pp. 128-131. To increase mechanical stability for example of the dry powder, it is advisable to add a plasticizer to the colloid, such as sugar or sugar alcohols, e.g. B. sucrose, glucose, lactose, Invert sugar, sorbitol, mannitol or glycerin.

To increase the stability of the active ingredient against oxidative degradation, it is advantageous to use stabilizers such as Tocopherol, t-butylhydroxy-toluene, t-butylhydroxyanisole, ascorbic acid or Add ethoxyquine.

As emulsifiers or solubilizers can in the case of emulsions and dry powders made from them and in the case of solubilizates, for example ascorbyl palmitate, Polyglycerol fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, Propylene glycol fatty acid ester or lecithin in a concentration of 0 to 200% by weight, preferably 10 to 150 wt .-%, particularly preferably 20 to 80 wt .-%, based to the mycosporin-like Amino acids, be used.

The dosage and duration of use those to be used according to the invention Mycosporin-like amino acids or the mycosporin-like amino acids containing agents can be dependent adapted and varied by the person skilled in the art from the intended use become.

The hand detergents and hand dishwashing detergents according to the invention as well as cosmetics and personal care products such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths, shower baths, creams, Gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, Emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powder or ointments can be used as Auxiliaries and additives mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, Consistency agents, thickeners, polymers, silicone compounds, Fats, waxes, stabilizers, biogenic agents, deodorants, Antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, UV light protection factors, Antioxidants, hydrotropes, preservatives, insect repellents, Self, Solubilizers, perfume oils, dyes and the like included.

Typical examples of suitable ones mild, i.e. particularly skin-friendly Surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, Mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, taurides, Fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether, Alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, Alkylamidobetaines and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ carboxylic acids are, for example, oil bodies with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, Behe nylbehenat, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristat, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucylerucate.

In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids are also suitable polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils , branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with lin earen and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (eg Finsolv ^® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic Hydrocarbons such as B. squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

• (1) Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe sowie Alkylamine mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest;
• (2) C_12/18-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin;
• (3) Glycerinmono- und -diester und Sorbitanmono- und -diester von gesättigten und ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und deren Ethylenoxidanlagerungsprodukte;
• (4) Alkyl- und/oder Alkenylmono- und -oligoglycoside mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alk(en)ylrest und deren ethoxylierte Analoga;
• (5) Anlagerungsprodukte von 15 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• (6) Polyol- und insbesondere Polyglycerinester;
• (7) Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 15 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• (8) Partialester auf Basis linearer, verzweigter, ungesättigter bzw. gesättigter C_6/22-Fettsäuren, Ricinolsäure sowie 12-Hydroxystearinsäure und Glycerin, Polyglycerin, Pentaerythrit, Dipentaenthrit, Zuckeralkohole (z.B. Sorbit), Alkylglucoside (z.B. Methylglucosid, Butylglucosid, Laurylglucosid) sowie Polyglucoside (z.B. Cellulose);
• (9) Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphate sowie Mono-, Di- und/oder Tri-PEG-alkylphosphate und deren Salze;
• (10) Wollwachsalkohole;
• (11) Polysiloxan-Polyalkyl-Polyether-Copolymere bzw. entsprechende Derivate;
• (12) Mischester aus Pentaerythrit, Fettsäuren, Citronensäure und Fettalkohol gemäß DE 1165574 PS und/oder Mischester von Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, Methylglucose und Polyolen, vorzugsweise Glycerin oder Polyglycerin,
• (13) Polyalkylenglycole sowie
• (14) Glycerincarbonat.

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• (1) Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the Alkyl group and alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
• (2) C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;
• (3) glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;
• (4) alkyl and / or alkenyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogues;
• (5) adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
• (6) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters;
• (7) adducts of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
• (8) _{partial esters} based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C _6/22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerin, polyglycerin, pentaerythritol, dipentaenthritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside) butyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, as well as polyglucosides (eg cellulose);
• (9) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;
• (10) wool wax alcohols;
• (11) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• (12) Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 1165574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol,
• (13) polyalkylene glycols and
• (14) Glycerol carbonate.

The addition products of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of fatty acids or put on castor oil known, commercially available Products.

These are homolog mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are from DE 2024051 PS known as a refatting agent for cosmetic preparations.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl mono- and -oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are state of the art known in the art. They are manufactured in particular by Reaction of glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. In terms of of the glycoside residue applies that both Monoglycosides, in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidic is bound to the fatty alcohol, as well as oligomeric glycosides a degree of oligomerization up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, the one for such technical products usual Is based on homolog distribution.

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls ^® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform ^® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan ^® GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan ^® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care ^® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina ^® ), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane ^® NL), Polyglyceryl -3 Distearate (Cremophor ^® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul ^® WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxyimide-3-carboxymethylamino-3-carboxylimide each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or _-SO3H group and are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 C. Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C _12/18 acyl sarcosine. In addition to the ampholytic emulsifiers, quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Substances can be used as superfatting agents such as lanolin and lecithin, and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, Monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides are used, the latter at the same time as foam stabilizers serve.

Pearlescent waxes that can be used are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fat substances such as fatty alcohol hole, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

As consistency givers come first Line fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and in addition partial glycerides, fatty acids or Hydroxy fatty acids in Consideration. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides is preferred and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates.

Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (eg carbopols) ^® from Goodrich or Synthalene ^® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400 ^® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as Luviquat ^® (BASF) , condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as at play, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat® ^® L / Grunau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine ^® / Sandoz), copolymers acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat ^® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, as described, for example, in FR 2252840 A and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized Ch itosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as ^Jaguar® CBS, ^Jaguar® C-17, ^Jaguar® C-16 of Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, for example Mirapol ^® A-15, Mirapol ^® AD-1, Mirapol ^® AZ-1 from Miranol.

As anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers come, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, Methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, Octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.Butylaminoethylmethacrylat / 2 Hydroxyproyl methacrylate copolymers, Polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question.

Suitable silicone compounds are for example dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic Silicones as well as amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl modified Silicone compounds that are both liquid at room temperature also resin-shaped can be present. Simethicones, which are mixtures, are also suitable from dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates. A detailed overview of suitable ones volatile Silicones are also found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, waxes include natural waxes such as candelilla, Carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice-germ oil wax, Sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, Walrat, Lanolin (wool wax), Bürzelfett, Ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemical modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes as well as synthetic waxes, e.g. polyalkylene and polyethylene glycol waxes in question.

Metal salts can be used as stabilizers of fatty acids, such as. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate be used.

Biogenic active ingredients are, for example Tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, Bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, Pseudoceramides, essential oils, To understand plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

Cosmetic deodorants (deodorants) counteract body odors, mask them or eliminate them. Body odors arise by the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, being uncomfortable smelling degradation products are formed. Accordingly included Deodorants Active ingredients that act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, Odor absorber or odor masker act.

As germ-inhibiting agents, which may be added to the cosmetics according to the invention, are basically all substances effective against gram-positive bacteria, such as. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3,4 dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2' hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro 3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2'-methylenebis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monolaurate ( GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as B. salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

Enzyme inhibitors can also be added to the cosmetics according to the invention. Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl, triisopropyl, tributyl citrate and especially triethyl citrate (Hydagen® ^® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Dusseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Further substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterolsulfates or - phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, Monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

Suitable odor absorbers are substances absorb the odor-forming compounds and hold them to a large extent can. They lower and reduce the partial pressure of the individual components so also their speed of propagation. It is important that Perfumes unaffected have to stay. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain for example, the main ingredient is a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as z. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. As a smell masker fragrance substances or perfume oils act additionally on their function as odor maskers give the deodorants their respective fragrance. As perfume oils are for example called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. natural Fragrances are extracts from flowers, Stems and leaves, fruits, Fruit peel, roots, wood, herbs and grasses, Needles and twigs as well as resins and balms. Furthermore come animal Raw materials in question, such as civet and castoreum. typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester type, Ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. Benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, Linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, Styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example Benzyl ethyl ether, to the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, among the Ketones e.g. the Jonone and methylcedryl ketone, to alcohols Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures of different fragrances are preferably used, which together create an appealing fragrance. Also essential oils less Volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components are suitable as Perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, Chamomile oil, Clove oil, Balm oil, Mint oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably become bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, Geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, Ambroxan, indole, Hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, Cyclover Valley, Lavender Oil, Muscatel sage oil, β-damascone, geranium Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, Rose oxide, romilat, irotyl and floramat alone or in mixtures, used.

• (a) adstringierende Wirkstoffe,
• (b) Ölkomponenten,
• (c) nichtionische Emulgatoren,
• (d) Coemulgatoren,
• (e) Konsistenzgeber,
• (f) Hilfsstoffe wie z. B. Verdicker oder Komplexierungsmittel und/oder
• (g) nichtwässrige Lösungsmittel wie z. B. Ethanol, Propylenglykol und/oder Glycerin.

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

• (a) astringent active ingredients,
• (b) oil components,
• (c) nonionic emulsifiers,
• (d) co-emulsifiers,
• (e) consistency generator,
• (f) auxiliaries such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or
• (g) non-aqueous solvents such as e.g. As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are, for example, aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds, for. B. with 1,2-propylene glycol. Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds, e.g. B. with amino acids such as glycine.

• – entzündungshemmende, hautschützende oder wohlriechende ätherische Öle,
• – synthetische hautschützende Wirkstoffe und/oder
• – öllösliche Parfümöle.

In addition, customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Examples of such oil-soluble auxiliaries are:

• - anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,
• - synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or
• - oil-soluble perfume oils.

usual water-soluble additions are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH value adjusting agents, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble Thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

Climbazol, Octopirox and zinc pyrithione can be used.

Common film formers are, for example Chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, Polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary Cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and the like Links.

Montmorillonites, as swelling agents for aqueous phases, Clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) serve. Other suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R.Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

• – 3-Benzylidencampher bzw. 3-Benzylidennorcampher und dessen Derivate, z.B. – in der EP 0693471 B1 beschrieben;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethylhexylesten, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester 2-Cyano-3,3-phenylzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octocrylene);
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-isopropylbenzylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester;
• – Triazinderivate, wie z.B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin und Octyl Triazon, wie in der EP 0818450 A1 beschrieben oder Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb^® HEB);
• – Propan-1,3-dione, wie z.B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-4'methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion;
• – Ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decan-Derivate, wie in der EP 0694521 B1 beschrieben.

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) present at room temperature which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and release the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, for example - in the EP 0693471 B1 described;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
• - Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylic acid, homomethyl salicylic acid;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• - Triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as in the EP 0818450 A1 described or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb ^® HEB);
• Propane-1,3-diones, such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3-4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• - Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as in the EP 0694521 B1 described.

• – 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)-sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds as described in the DE 19712033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but such particles can also be used men, which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl -, Amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thio dipropionate, distearyl thio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, Nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid , Linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives ( Vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxyutomate, superhydrogen derivatives, superhydrogen derivatives, trihydroxyne derivatives, superficial derivatives, Zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), Sti Levels and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

• – Glycerin;
• – Alkylenglycole, wie beispielsweise Ethylenglycol, Diethylenglycol, Propylenglycol, Butylenglycol, Hexylenglycol sowie Polyethylenglycole mit einem durchschnittlichen Molekulargewicht von 100 bis 1.000 Dalton;
• – technische Oligoglyceringemische mit einem Eigenkondensationsgrad von 1,5 bis 10 wie etwa technische Diglyceringemische mit einem Diglyceringehalt von 40 bis 50 Gew.-%;
• – Methyolverbindungen, wie insbesondere Trimethylolethan, Trimethylolpropan, Trimethylolbutan, Pentaerythrit und Dipentaerythrit;
• – Niedrigalkylglucoside, insbesondere solche mit 1 bis 8 Kohlenstoffen im Alkylrest, wie beispielsweise Methyl- und Butylglucosid;
• – Zuckeralkohole mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Sorbit oder Mannit,
• – Zucker mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Glucose oder Saccharose;
• – Aminozucker, wie beispielsweise Glucamin;
• – Dialkoholamine, wie Diethanolamin oder 2-Amino-1,3-propandiol.

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• - glycerin;
• - Alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
• Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
• - Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• - Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• - Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• - aminosugars such as glucamine;
• - Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

Suitable as preservatives for example phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the others listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance Classes. As insect repellents there are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate in question when Self Dihydroxyacetone is suitable.

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials such as civet and cas are also suitable toreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl benzylatepylpropionate, stally. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the jonones, ∝-isomethylionone and methylcedrenyl ketone Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of low volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate, alone or in mixtures.

Suitable dyes for cosmetic purposes and approved substances, such as those used in the publication "Cosmetic Colorant "of the dye commission the German Research Association, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, S.81-106 are put together. These dyes are usually used in concentrations from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the composition. Cosmetics and personal care products can be manufactured using conventional cold or hot processes respectively; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

For the uses according to the invention are mycosporin-like amino acids suitable of any origin, d. H. regardless of how the mycosporin-like amino acids were produced or obtained.

According to the invention, however, it is preferred Mycosporine-like amino acids to use, which were obtained from Hoshi-Nori.

The following examples illustrate the Invention without, however, restricting it to:

Example 1: Extraction of the MAAs

40 g of Hoshi Nori (dried) were with 800 ml of water for 30 min. swollen. Then 5 min. with a Turrax T25 at maximum speed (Stage 3) dispersed, 5 min. centrifuged (with Sorvall centrifuge, 9000 rpm, rotor SLA 3000). The pellet was slurried in 400 ml of water, again redispersed with the Turrax and 5 min. as described above centrifuged. This step was repeated one more time. The watery Extracts were pooled. 1232 ml of extract were obtained. The Extract is shaken three times with the same volume of dichloromethane that aqueous Phase evaporated to 60 ml on a rotary evaporator and for further tests used.

• – Säulenchromatografische Reinigung, ausgehend von 60 ml Primärextrakt. Säulendurchmesser 36 mm, -länge 230 mm, Säulenmaterial LiChroprep R 18 (25–40 μm), Laufmittel 25 % Methanol, 75 % Wasser+Essigsäure (0,07 %), Auftragsvolumen 25 ml, 2 Läufe. Die MAA-haltigen Fraktionen beider Läufe wurden vereinigt (Photometrische Bestimmung der MAA Porphyra als Leitsubstanz, Wellenlänge 334 nm). Die vereinigten Fraktionen wurden mit 1 N NaOH neutralisiert und im Rotationsverdampfer aufkonzentriert.
• – Aktivkohlebehandlung, ausgehend von 488 g des Primärextraktes. Der Primärextrakt wurde mit 39 g (8 %) Aktivkohle versetzt und unter gelegentlichen Schütteln für 4 h bei RT stehen gelassen. Anschließend wurde die Aktivkohle durch Zentrifugation sedimentiert und der Überstand über 0,45 μm Membranfilter vakuumfiltriert. Das Filtrat wurde im Rotationsverdampfer bei 50 °C und 50 mbar eingeengt.

For enrichment, one of the methods listed below could be connected to the extraction already described:

• - Column chromatographic purification, starting from 60 ml primary extract. Column diameter 36 mm, length 230 mm, column material LiChroprep R 18 (25–40 μm), solvent 25% methanol, 75% water + acetic acid (0.07%), order volume 25 ml, 2 runs. The MAA-containing fractions of both runs were combined (photometric determination of the MAA Porphyra as the leading substance, wavelength 334 nm). The combined fractions were neutralized with 1 N NaOH and concentrated in a rotary evaporator.
• - Activated carbon treatment based on 488 g of the primary extract. The primary extract was mixed with 39 g (8%) activated carbon and allowed to stand for 4 h at RT with occasional shaking. The activated carbon was then sedimented by centrifugation and the supernatant was vacuum filtered through a 0.45 μm membrane filter. The filtrate was concentrated in a rotary evaporator at 50 ° C and 50 mbar.

The concentrated extracts were used in the experiments in concentrations of 0.01% - 0.1%. For the Using the non-concentrated primary extract would have a concentration range of 0.1% to 10% makes sense, with a preferred range of 3.0% - 5.0%.

Example 2: Determination expression profile in multilayer skin models after MAA treatment

Investigations on multi-layer skin models:

The effect of the mycosporin-like amino acids (MAA) was examined on a multi-layer in vitro skin model. The skin model is a human skin equivalent that consists of a dermis with fibroblasts and an epidermis of keratinocytes. This multilayer structure is created in a special cultivation process: For this, dermal equivalents (DE) are first produced by placing a suspension of 2 × 105 / cm ² fibroblasts from human foreskin on a matrix consisting of chitosan, collagen and GAG (Collombel, C ., Damour, 0., Gagnieu, C., Marichy, C., Poinsignon, F .: Biomaterials with a base of collagen, chitosane and glycosaminoglycans, process for preparing them and their application in human medicine, French Patent 8708252. 1987. European Patent 884101948, 8-2112 / Q., 1988. US Patent PCT / FR / 8800303 (1989)). The DEs are incubated for 14 days in DMEM medium + antibiotics with 10% fetal calf serum (FCS) at 37 ° C, 5% CO ₂ , and 90% humidity, the medium being renewed every day. For the skin equivalents, keratinocytes from human foreskin are sown at a density of 200,000 cells / cm ² on the 14 day old DEs and under submerged conditions in medium (mixture of DMEM and Ham's F12 with antibiotics with 10% FCS, 0.4μg / ml hydrocortisone , 0.12Ul / ml insulin, 10-10 M cholera toxin) for a further 7 days. The skin equivalents (DE) are then at the air-liquid interface (ALI) for a further 14 days in modified keratinocyte medium (DMEM-Ham's F12, supplemented with 0.4μg / ml hydrocortisone and 0.12Ul / ml insulin ) cultivated. Compared to commonly used monolayer cultures, this model corresponds much better to the in vivo situation, since keratinocytes and fibroblasts are in close contact with one another and, like in vivo, can exchange signal substances.

Treatment of whole skin models:

The tests were carried out the culture medium for the multi-layer skin models with different concentrations (0.01% [100 ppm] and 0.1% [1000 ppm]) of the MAA extracts from the algae Hoshi Nori. The effects of the active substance-containing medium on whole skin models were compared rated as a drug-free (normal) medium. For this, the Skin models about Incubated for 6 hours or 48 hours with the appropriate medium and finally the gene expression of the skin models treated with the active ingredient in comparison determined with the gene expression of untreated skin models.

RNA preparation from the whole skin models:

Before isolating the RNA the skin models are removed from the filter paper under RNase-free conditions, in a vessel with liquid nitrogen frozen and then until working up in liquid Nitrogen stored. For RNA preparation were the models according to one modified protocol from Qiagen (RNeasy Protocol: Isolation of total RNA from Heart, Muscle, and Skin Tissue; TS RY7; 05/99) processed and measured photometrically.

Gene expression analysis:

The gene expression analyzes were performed using cDNA arrays. For the The present study used cDNA arrays that were different Wear human cDNAs and are all active in human skin. As a positive control, “house keeping genes and E. coli DNA fragments applied. As negative controls were Herring sperm DNA and buffer applied. The PCR amplicons of the cloned cDNA fragments were at a uniform concentration adjusted and derivatized to the surface with a dispenser slides dripped.

For the determination of the gene expression profiles, RNA of a treated skin model was marked with the fluorescent dye Cy5 and the RNA of the correspondingly untreated skin model (control) with the fluorescent dye Cy3 and hybridized together on a cDNA array. The labeling was achieved by reverse transcription with the incorporation of fluorescence-labeled nucleotides (Cy3-dCTP or Cy5-dCTP). The hybridized arrays were read out with a laser scanning device. The images obtained for both fluorescent markings are digitally superimposed ("overlay") for the further analysis. Here, the color green means that the Cy5 fluorescence has a higher intensity than Cy3, red means that the Cy3 fluorescence has a higher intensity than Cy5 , Yellow, that both fluorescences have the same intensity and therefore the corresponding gene was expressed to the same extent in both samples. To create the expression profiles, the Cy3 and Cy5 signal and background intensities of the hybridized arrays were first determined. The background values were determined by the Signalintensitä ten subtracted and the quotient calculated from the Cy5 / Cy3 signal. The values were normalized using the median of all signal quotients and the mean value and errors of the quadruple spots were then calculated. For the further evaluation, only those signal pairs (Cy3 and Cy5) were used in which, after background subtraction, at least one of the two signal intensities was at least 3 times higher than the signal intensity of the negative controls (herring sperm DNA and buffer). This ensured that very weak signal intensities, which react extremely sensitively to a slightly varying background or unspecific hybridization, are excluded.

For the evaluation of an active substance it is of interest to find out which genes are regulated in the whole skin model by administration of the substance are. In particular, such gene regulations became significant rated for at least two-fold differential expression led. Moreover were expression changes considered, which has a clear dose dependency show, and those that have the same regulatory tendency within show a gene family.

Results:

Decreased expression of the transcription factor HIF1α and of his targets:

Comparison of the expression profile MAA-treated skin models with untreated skin models shows a significantly reduced expression of the transcription factor HIF1α after a 6 hour Incubate with either 100 ppm MAA or 1000 ppm MAA (Tab. 2).

The transcription factor HIF1α is in Cells in response to cellular hypoxia, an oxygen deficiency, reinforced expressed. The cells of the skin model show in comparison to the physiological situation naturally in the skin an increased Expression of this transcription factor, as in the skin models the oxygen supply over Diffusion does not occur to the same extent as in the skin via the blood supply through the capillaries. The Observation that the addition of the MAAs leads to a reduced expression of the transcription factor HIF1a can be concluded that the State of cellular hypoxia less pronounced the oxygen supply to the cells is therefore improved.

Tab. 2: Expression values for the transcription factor HIF1α and its target genes. The relative expression from a is given Comparison of MAA-treated Skin models with untreated skin models. The access number is in the "SwissProt" and "UniGene" columns of the gene in the respective database (HIF1A: HIF1α; SLC2A1: Glucose transporter GLUT1; PGK2: phosphoglycerate kinase).

Under your Swissprot or UniGene Accession Number are the respective genes or gene products in the National database Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI). This database is accessible on the Internet at the following address: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/.

The genes or gene products are also under the Internet addresses http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/UniGene/Hs.Home.html or http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/genome/guide directly accessible.

The target genes of the transcription factor HIF1α, i.e. The genes that the factor directly regulates include Genes for Glucose transporter (SLC2A1) and the phosphoglycerate kinase gene (PGK2), a central enzyme of glycolysis. In the state of hypoxia leads the reinforced expressed and activated HIF1α to one increased Expression of the glucose transporters and the PGK. Consistent with this There is a reduced control loop after treatment with MAAs Expression of the corresponding genes.

Influence on others Hypoxia-associated gene groups:

The state of cellular hypoxia is associated with pronounced changes in metabolism and gene expression. The metabolic pathway of glycolysis is activated and key enzymes of glycolysis are expressed more strongly. There is also a higher expression of genes that play a role in angiogenesis and are said to lead to an improved blood supply to undersupplied cells. Matrix metalloproteases are synthesized to an increased extent to prevent the formation of new vessels by the To aid in the breakdown of extracellular matrix. Compared to oxygen-deficient cells, cells with an improved oxygen supply show an opposite expression pattern. Genes that are repressed in the case of hypoxia show a higher expression in the case of normoxia. Correspondingly, for genes which are expressed more intensely in the state of hypoxia, there is a reduced expression in the state of normoxia.

For Skin models that have been treated with MAAs show exactly this expression profile opposite to the hypoxia-induced expression pattern (see tables 2 to 6):

Tab. 3: Expression values of the matrix metalloproteases MMP1 and MMP2.

The relative expression values are given of the proteases in MAA-treated Skin models compared to untreated skin models. The expression MMPs are induced in the state of hypoxia, which results in MAA treatment in contrast, compared to untreated skin models decreased expression of the proteases. A correspondingly diminished one Degradation extracellular Expected matrix.

Tab. 4: Expression of some Subunits of ATP synthase.

The relative expression values are given in MAA-treated skin models compared to untreated skin models. Cells that are undersupplied with oxygen show a reduced number Expression of ATP synthase, an enzyme responsible for the generation of the biological energy source ATP is responsible. Through an improved oxygen supply the expression of the ATP synthase is increased. A corresponding induction the expression of some subunits of ATP synthase is at treatment of skin models with MAA was observed.

Tab. 5: Expression of some Glycolysis enzymes.

(GLUT1: Glucose-Transporter, PGK2: Phoshoglycerat-Kinase, ALDOC: Fruktose-Bisphosphat Aldolase, GAPD: Glycerinaldehyd-3-Phosphat Dehydrogenase, PGAM: Phosphoglycerat-Mutase, LDHA: Lactat-Dehydrogenase)The relative expression values are given in MAA-treated skin models compared to untreated skin models. Cellular hypoxia is accompanied by an activation of glycolysis. Ultimately, it enables the cell to meet energy needs through the less efficient anaerobic route. Accordingly, there is also an increased activity of lactate dehydrogenase. The MAA treatment represses the expression of some central enzymes of glycolysis, which will be associated with a lower glucose conversion via this metabolic pathway. The cell adapts to the better oxygen supply and the resulting better energy generation via the aerobic route. The expression of lactate dehydrogenase is also reduced accordingly.

(GLUT1: glucose transporter, PGK2: phoshoglycerate kinase, ALDOC: fructose bisphosphate aldolase, GAPD: glyceraldehyde-3-phosphate dehydrogenase, PGAM: phosphoglycerate mutase, LDHA: lactate dehydrogenase)

Influence of MAA on enzymes cellular respiration and the degradation of reactive oxygen species:

Along with the improved cellular Oxygenation through treatment with MAA are the genes for enzymes cellular respiration, which expresses cytochrome C oxidases increasingly (Tab. 6).

These enzymes play a central role Role in the aerobic energy production of the cell. An absolute requirement For this The process of energy generation is the availability of oxygen. Despite the obviously better availability of oxygen is the expression of superoxide dismutase, an enzyme which causes the degradation of so-called reactive oxygen species (ROS) (Table 6). The funded by MAA So oxygen intake obviously does not work with an increased Formation of these cell-damaging ROS goes hand in hand with the cell's physiological response to this stress would be an increased expression of the ROS-degrading enzymes.

Beispiel 3 (Formulierungsbeispiel, Angaben in Gew-%)): Montanov 68 6,00 Myritol 318 7,00 Stenol 16/18 1,25 Cutina MDV 2,50 Novata AB 3,00 Cetiol SB 45 1,50 Eusolex 4360 0,50 Tocopherolacetat 0,50 Baysilon M350 0,50 PHB-Propylester 0,20 Generol R 0,50 TiO2 0,30 Tego Carbomer 2%ig 10,00 Talkum DAB 0,50 Glycerin 4,50 Sorbit 70%-ig 2,00 PHB-Methylester 0,20 Wasser, dest add 100 NaOH 10%-ig ph 4,8–5,2 Primärextr. Hoshi Nori 3,00 Beispiel 4: (Formulierungsbeispiel, Angaben in Gew-%)): IPP 5,00 Cutina MDV 2,00 Stenol 1618 1,00 Baysilon M 350 0,50 Biophilic H 4,00 1,6-Hexandiol 6,00 Glycerin 5,00 Wasser add 100 Tego Carbomer, 2%ig 20,00 Trilon A 0,10 Primärextr. Hoshi Nori 3,00 Beispiel 5: (Formulierungsbeispiel, Angaben in Gew-%)): Emuliance 4,00 Myritol 318 6,00 Cutina MDV 2,00 Stenol 1618 1,00 Baysilon M 350 0,50 1,6-Hexandiol 6,00 Glycerin 5,00 Wasser add 100 Primärextr. Hoshi Nori 3,00 Beispiel 6: (Formulierungsbeispiel, Angaben in Gew-%)): Montanov 202 3,00 IPS V 3,00 Myritol 331 1,00 Performalene 400 1,00 Cegesoft C 24 3,00 Lanette 22 1,00 Cutina MDV 2,00 Vitamin E – acetat 0,50 Controx KS 0,25 Parsol 1789 1,00 Eusolex 6300 2,00 Uvinul T 150 1,25 Baysilon M350 0,50 Tego Carbomer 140 2%ig 25,00 1,6 – Hexandiol 6,00 Glycerin 5,00 1,2-Propylenglykol 5,00 Wasser demin. Add 100 DSH-CN 2,00 NaOH 10 %ig ph 4,8–5,2 Dry Flo Plus 1,00 Primärextr. Hoshi Nori 3,00 Beispiel 7: (Formulierungsbeispiel, Angaben in Gew-%)): Distelöl 3,0 Myritol PC 3,5 Lanette 22 3,0 Cutina GMS-V 3,0 Stenol 16/18 2,0 IPS 6,0 Baysilon M350 1,0 Controx KS 0,05 PHB- Propylester 0,2 Wasser add 100 Glycerin 5,0 PHB- Methylester 0,2 Hibiscin 3,0 TiO₂ 0,5 Citronensäure 0,1 Primärextr. Hoshi Nori 3,00 Sepigel 305 2,0 Beispiel 8: (Formulierungsbeispiel, Angaben in Gew-%)): Lipoid S75-3 1,50 Baysilon M 350 1,00 Cetiol J 600 DEO 4,00 Cetiol SB 45 3,00 Stenol 1618 gesch. 0,50 Cutina MD-V 1,00 Floraester 70 2,00 Floraester 60 1,50 Controx KS 0,20 Mandelöl 2,00 PHB – Propylester 0,20 Tego Carbomer 140 2 %ig 20,00 Talkum Pharma G 1,00 Wasser add 100 Glycerin 3,00 Dipropylenglycol 6,00 PHB – Methylester 0,20 Dry Flo PLUS 1,00 Ca-pantothenat 0,048 Vit. A-palmitat 0,10 DSH-CN 2,00 Primärextr. Hoshi Nori 3,00 NaOH 10 %ig 1,50 Tab. 6: Expression of some enzymes from cell respiration and ROS breakdown. The relative expression values are given in MAA-treated skin models compared to untreated skin models. In order to process the increased cellular oxygen supply, enzymes of cell respiration have to be synthesized. Such increased expression of various peptide chains of cytochrome C oxidase (COX5A, COX6A1, COX6C) is induced by treatment with MAAs. At the same time, the expression of superoxide dismutase (SOD2) is reduced. The increased oxygen supply does not go hand in hand with a stronger production of cell-damaging reactive oxygen species.

Example 3 (formulation example, details in% by weight): Montanov 68 6.00 Myritol 318 7.00 Stenol 16/18 1.25 Cutina MDV 2.50 Novata AB 3.00 Cetiol SB 45 1.50 Eusolex 4360 0.50 tocopherol 0.50 Baysilon M350 0.50 PHB propyl 0.20 Generol R 0.50 TiO2 0.30 Tego Carbomer 2% 10.00 Talc DAB 0.50 glycerin 4.50 Sorbitol 70% 2.00 PHB Methylester 0.20 Water, dist add 100 NaOH 10% pH 4.8-5.2 Primärextr. Hoshi Nori 3.00 Example 4: (formulation example, details in% by weight): IPP 5.00 Cutina MDV 2.00 Stenol 1618 1.00 Baysilon M 350 0.50 Biophilic H 4.00 1,6-hexanediol 6.00 glycerin 5.00 water add 100 Tego Carbomer, 2% 20.00 Trilon A 0.10 Primärextr. Hoshi Nori 3.00 Example 5: (formulation example, details in% by weight): Emuliance 4.00 Myritol 318 6.00 Cutina MDV 2.00 Stenol 1618 1.00 Baysilon M 350 0.50 1,6-hexanediol 6.00 glycerin 5.00 water add 100 Primärextr. Hoshi Nori 3.00 Example 6: (formulation example, details in% by weight): Montanov 202 3.00 IPS V 3.00 Myritol 331 1.00 Performalene 400 1.00 Cegesoft C 24 3.00 Lanette 22 1.00 Cutina MDV 2.00 Vitamin E acetate 0.50 Controx KS 0.25 Parsol 1789 1.00 Eusolex 6300 2.00 Uvinul T 150 1.25 Baysilon M350 0.50 Tego Carbomer 140 2% 25,00 1,6 - hexanediol 6.00 glycerin 5.00 1,2-propylene glycol 5.00 Water demin. Add 100 DSH CN 2.00 NaOH 10% pH 4.8-5.2 Dry Flo Plus 1.00 Primärextr. Hoshi Nori 3.00 Example 7: (formulation example, details in% by weight): safflower oil 3.0 Myritol PC 3.5 Lanette 22 3.0 Cutina GMS-V 3.0 Stenol 16/18 2.0 IPS 6.0 Baysilon M350 1.0 Controx KS 0.05 PHB propyl ester 0.2 water add 100 glycerin 5.0 PHB methyl ester 0.2 HIBISCIN 3.0 TiO ₂ 0.5 citric acid 0.1 Primärextr. Hoshi Nori 3.00 Sepigel 305 2.0 Example 8: (formulation example, details in% by weight): Lipoid S75-3 1.50 Baysilon M 350 1.00 Cetiol J 600 DEO 4.00 Cetiol SB 45 3.00 Stenol 1618 0.50 Cutina MD-V 1.00 Floraester 70 2.00 Floraester 60 1.50 Controx KS 0.20 almond oil 2.00 PHB - propyl ester 0.20 Tego Carbomer 140 2% 20.00 Talcum Pharma G 1.00 water add 100 glycerin 3.00 dipropylene 6.00 PHB - methyl ester 0.20 Dry Flo PLUS 1.00 Ca pantothenate 0.048 Vit. A palmitate 0.10 DSH CN 2.00 Primärextr. Hoshi Nori 3.00 NaOH 10% 1.50

Rating:

The transcription factor HIF1α (hypoxia-inducible factor 1 α) becomes widespread in the literature as a regulator of oxygen homeostasis (e.g. G. Semenza (2002), Biochem Pharmacol 64: 993-8; RH Wengen (2002), FASEB J 16: 1151-62). As genes that are directly regulated by this transcription factor are, among other things the glucose transporter GLUT1 (SLC2A1), the phosphoglycerate kinase PGK1 and VEGF have been identified (DA Elson et al. (2000), Cancer Res 60: 6189-95). In addition to HIF1α, expression in the applicant's experiments of the transporter GLUT1 and the kinase PGK2 are examined. The Regulation of PGK2 by HIF1α was not previously described in the literature, a comparable regulation of the PGK1 and PGK2 isoforms is probable.

HIF1α is not only due to the cellular oxygen partial pressure regulated, but also through essential growth factor-dependent signaling pathways (G. Semenza (2002), see above). Correspondingly, the applicant a change the gene expression of HIF1α also in other drug tests found, but without any effect on the regulation of the target genes remained of HIF1α, and all of them not with a coherent expression pattern for one Hypoxia / normoxia went hand in hand.

The concept of decreased hypoxia by using MAAs is therefore through the overall picture of the regulations supported. On the one hand, there was a consistent expression pattern for HIF1α and its Target genes found. Furthermore are also other gene groups associated with the state of hypoxia, but not directly controlled by HIF1α are regulated in such a way that they support the concept.

So it was shown that in the state hypoxia expression of MMP1 (in dermal fibroblasts) and MMP2 (in connective tissue cells of the liver) is increased (M Yamanaka, O Ishikawa (2000), J Dermatol Sci 24: 99-104; PS Chen et al. (2001), World J Gastroenterol 7: 647-51). In fibroblasts from sheep there was a repression of ATP synthase found under a state of hypoxia; relevant publications, in which the gene expression of individual subunits of ATP synthase could not be found.

GL Semenza et al. (Semenza et al. (1994) J Biol Chem 23: 23757-63) could show that HIF1α is not only the expression of PGK1, but also the expression of others Enzymes affected by glycolysis. In this publication, too shown that the gene for the lactate dehydrogenase A has a potential HIF1α binding site.

A repression of the different Subunits of cytochrome c oxidase in the state of cellular hypoxia could for the yeast are demonstrated (Dagsgaard et al. (2001), J Biol Chem 276: 7593-601).

Claims (16)

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation for improving oxygen uptake in humans or animals, characterized in that it contains mycosporin-like amino acids. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the Improve oxygen uptake for prophylactic and / or therapeutic treatment of hypoxia and hypoxia-related or favored undesirable physical states serves. Preparation according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that that the Mycosporine-like amino acids selected are under palythin, palythin-serine, Palythinol, Asterina-330, Mycosporin-2-glycine, Shinorin, Porphyra-334, N-methyl-mycosporin-serine, N-methyl-mycosporin-threonine, mycosporin-glycine-valine, palythenic acid, Usijiren and palythene, in particular mycosporin-2-glycine, shinorin and porphyra-334, particularly preferred Porphyra-334. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized that the Mycosporine-like amino acids extracted from algae, which are selected from algae of the genera Macrocystis, Himanthalia, Fucus, Ascophyllum, Gracilaria, Gelidium, Pterocladia, Ahnfeltia, Chondrus, Mastocarpus, Phyllophora or Gymnogongrus; particularly preferred among the red algae Porphyra or Euchema or the brown algae Laminaria or Undaria; most notably preferably from Hoshi Nori. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized that the Concentration of the extract in the preparation in the range of 0.001 up to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, particularly preferred 0.01 to 3% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized that they in humans or animals intraperitoneally, orally, buccally, rectally, intramuscularly, topically, Subcutaneously, inhalatively, intra-articularly or intravenously becomes. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized that they in the form of tablets, coated tablets, capsules, solutions, dispersions (suspensions or emulsions), ointments, creams, aqueous surfactant preparations, Milk, lotion, balm, gels, granules, powders, stick preparations, such as B. lipsticks, foams, Aerosols, sprays, inhalation preparations or suppositories is used. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized that they is applied topically to epithelial cover tissue. Preparation according to one of claims 2 to 8, characterized in that that the caused or favored by hypoxia undesirable physical conditions selected are under periodontal disease, skin aging, mental or physical Inefficiency, poor athletic performance and preferably sexual inefficiency, especially erectile Dysfunctions. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized that they additional Contains active ingredients, prefers those selected are under - carotenoids, such as B. Bixin, zeaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, citranaxanthin, canthaxanthin, β-apo-4-carotinal, β-apo-8-carotinal, β-apo-8-carotinic acid ester, Astaxanthin, individually or as a mixture. - vitamins, e.g. B. Vitamin A, vitamin A acetate, vitamin A palmitate, riboflavin, vitamin B12, ascorbic acid, Ascorbyl palmitate, nicotinic acid, nicotinamide, Pyridoxine hydrochloride, vitamin D3, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, Tocopherol palmitate, tocotrienol, vitamin K, thiamine, calcium pantothenate, Biotin, lipoic acid, Folic acid, folic acid derivatives such as tetrahydrofolic acid, 5-methyl-tetrahydrofolic acid, 10-formyl-tetrahydrofolic acid or 5-formyltetrahydrofolic acid. - Links with a vitamin or coenzyme character, e.g. B. choline chloride, carnitine, Taurine, creatine, ubiquinone, S-methyl methionine, S-adenosyl methionine, "Branched chain amino acids ", β-hydroxy-β-methylbutyrate and α-lipoic acid. - Multiple unsaturated fatty acids, z. B. linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, Docosahexaenoic acid. - components of the garlic, e.g. B. diallyl thiosulfinate, S-allylcysteine sulfoxide, vinyl dithiines, Ajoene. - Allithiamines such as benfotiamine, fursultiamine, octotiamine or bentiamine. - glutathione and its esters, such as. B. GSH monomethyl ester, GSH dimethyl ester, GSH monoethyl ester, GSH diethyl ester. Process for the production of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation for improving oxygen absorption in humans or animals, especially for prophylactic and / or therapeutic treatment of hypoxia and hypoxia-related or beneficiaries undesirable physical states characterized in that one Mycosporine-like amino acids with cosmetically or pharmacologically suitable and compatible carriers mixed. Use of mycosporin-like amino acids for Improve oxygen uptake in animals or humans. Use of mycosporin-like amino acids for Production of food, animal food, food supplements, Hand washing detergents, hand dishwashing detergents, Cosmetics or personal care products, those when used as intended improve oxygen uptake. Food, animal nutrition, food supplements, Medicines, hand washing detergents, hand dishwashing detergents, cosmetics or personal care products, containing mycosporin-like amino acids as agents counteracting hypoxia. Cosmetic according to claim 14, characterized in that it is a cream. Cosmetic according to claim 15, characterized in that it is a night cream.