DE10240184A1 - Cosmetic formulations, useful in decorative cosmetics and for coating and coloring hair, contain aqueous miniemulsion with dispersed achiral nematic and chiral polymerizable monomers and achiral nematic unpolymerizable compound - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic formulation (A) contains (i) aqueous mini-emulsion(s), in which the components of the disperse phase are: (a) achiral nematic poly- and/or mono-functional polymerizable monomer(s); (b) achiral nematic unpolymerizable compound(s),; (c) chiral di- or mono-functional polymerizable monomer(s); and (d) optionally chiral unpolymerizable monomer(s). Independent claims are also included for the following: (1) cosmetic formulation (B) containing (i) aqueous microemulsion(s) as above and (ii) free radical initiator(s); (2) methods of coating and/or coloring keratinous surfaces, especially hair, with (A) or (B); (3) 2-component system for coating and/or coloring keratinous surfaces, especially hair, containing 2 storage-stable aqueous emulsions with different concentrations of component (c) and otherwise the same composition.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing aqueous mini emulsions, the disperse phase comprises a cholesteric mixture, a method for the treatment of keratin surfaces with such preparations as well as the use of these preparations.

When heated shape-anisotropic materials can liquid crystalline Phases, known as mesophases to occur. The individual phases differ themselves through the spatial Arrangement of the molecular centers on the one hand and in the molecular arrangement with respect to the longitudinal axes On the other hand (G. W. Gray, P.A Winsor, Liquid Crystals and Plastic Crystals, Ellis Horwood Limited, Chichester, 1974).

The nematic liquid-crystalline phase is distinguished is one-dimensional by parallel orientation of the molecular long axes of ( Order state). Provided that the the nematic Phase-building molecules are chiral, a so-called chiral nematic (cholesteric) Phase at which the longitudinal axis of the molecules an axis perpendicular to it, helical superstructure train (H. Baessler, Solid problems XI, 1971). The chiral part of the molecule can both in liquid crystalline molecule be yourself available as a dopant to the nematic phase are added, thereby inducing the chiral nematic phase. This phenomenon was first examined on cholesterol derivatives (e.g. H. Baessler, M.M. Labes, J. Chem. Phys. 52, 631 (1970)).

The chiral nematic phase has special optical properties: a high optical rotation and pronounced Circular dichroism polarized by selective reflection of circularly Light within the chiral nematic layer. Complies the pitch the helical superstructure the wavelength of visible light, a so-called Grandjean texture. Which appear different depending on the point of view Colors are dependent from the pitch the helical superstructure, which in turn depends on the twistability of the chiral component depends. This can be done in particular through change the pitch of a chiral dopant and thus the wavelength range of the selectively reflected light of a chiral nematic layer can be varied. Such chiral nematic systems offer for a practical Application interesting possibilities.

Cholesteric effect pigments are known. For example, the DE-A-197 38 369 Interference pigments from molecules fixed in a cholesteric arrangement. To produce these pigments, liquid-crystalline material is applied to a support, oriented and optionally crosslinked. The cholesteric layer is then detached from the carrier and crushed. The pigments obtained in this way are generally used in the form of lacquers or printing inks for coating or printing. Disadvantages are the need to use organic solvents to dilute the liquid-crystalline material before application to the support and the pigments when they are used in paints or printing inks, and the multi-stage procedure for producing the pigments.

The EP-A-0 793 693 describes aqueous dispersions of cholesteric mixtures which absolutely require the presence of dispersing agents.

Object of the present invention was to make preparations available to ask, which is for coating and / or coloring containing keratin surfaces suitable. It was of particular interest here to prepare preparations for disposal to provide, which enable a wide selection of color nuances and color reflections and are also advantageous in terms of application technology.

• a) wenigstens ein achirales nematisches polymerisierbares Monomer, ausgewählt unter polyfunktionell polymerisierbaren Monomeren, monofunktionell polymerisierbaren Monomeren oder Gemische davon;
• b) wenigstens eine achirale nematische nicht polymerisierbare Verbindung und
• c) wenigstens ein chirales di- oder monofunktionell polymerisierbares Monomer
• d) gegebenenfalls wenigstens ein chirales nicht polymerisierbares Monomer.

The object was achieved by cosmetic preparations containing aqueous mini-emulsion, the disperse phase of which comprises the following components:

• a) at least one achiral nematic polymerizable monomer selected from polyfunctionally polymerizable monomers, monofunctionally polymerizable monomers or mixtures thereof;
• b) at least one achiral nematic non-polymerizable compound and
• c) at least one chiral di- or monofunctionally polymerizable monomer
• d) optionally at least one chiral non-polymerizable monomer.

• (i) mindestens eine wässrige Miniemulsion, deren disperse Phase folgende Komponenten umfasst
• a) wenigstens ein achirales nematisches polymerisierbares Monomer, ausgewählt unter polyfunktionell polymerisierbaren Monomeren, monofunktionell polymerisierbaren Monomeren oder Gemische davon;
• b) wenigstens eine achirale nematische nicht polymerisierbare Verbindung und
• c) wenigstens ein chirales di- oder monofunktionell polymerisierbares Monomer
• d) gegebenenfalls wenigstens ein chirales nicht polymerisierbares Monomer
• (ii) mindestens einen Radikalbildner Als Radikalbildner eigen sich Polymerisationsinitiatoren, Oxidationsmittel, Reduktionsmittel und/oder Oxidationsmitte-Reduktionsmittel-Initiatorsysteme.

Another object of the invention relates to cosmetic preparation containing

• (i) at least one aqueous miniemulsion, the disperse phase of which comprises the following components
• a) at least one achiral nematic polymerizable monomer selected from polyfunctionally polymerizable monomers, monofunctionally polymerizable monomers or mixtures thereof;
• b) at least one achiral nematic non-polymerizable compound and
• c) at least one chiral di- or monofunctionally polymerizable monomer
• d) optionally at least one chiral non-polymerizable monomer
• (ii) at least one free radical generator. Free radical initiators are polymerization initiators, oxidizing agents, reducing agents and / or oxidizing agent-reducing agent initiator systems.

In the context of the present invention, the term “mini emulsion” denotes an emulsion whose disperse phase has a volume-average droplet size in the range from 100 nm to 1 mm (cf. Römpp, Lexicon of Chemistry, 10th ed., Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, New York, Vol. 4, p. 2502). The disperse phase preferably has a volume-average droplet size in the range from 100 to 600 nm, particularly preferably from 200 to 500 nm and in particular from 300 to 400 nm.

worin
R¹ für Fluor, Chlor, Brom, C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl, C₁-C₂₀-Alkoxy, C₁-C₂₀-Alkylcarbonyl, C₁-C₂₀-Alkylcarbonyloxy, Hydroxy, Nitro, CHO oder CN, vorzugsweise für Chlor, Brom oder C₁-C₄-Alkyl und insbesondere für Methyl steht; und
n für eine ganze Zahl von 0 bis 4, vorzugsweise 0 bis 2 und insbesondere für 0 oder 1 steht;
Y⁵ für gleiche oder verschiedene Brückenglieder -CO-O-, -O-CO-, -CH₂-O-, -O-CH₂-, -CO-S-, -S-CO-, -CH₂-S-, -S-CH₂, -CH=N- oder -N=CH- oder eine direkte Bindung, vorzugsweise -CO-O- oder -O-CO- steht, und
m eine ganze Zahl von 0 bis 3, vorzugsweise 0, 1 oder 2, bedeutet.The achiral nematic polyfunctionally polymerizable monomer is preferably difunctionally polymerizable and preferably corresponds to the general formula I. Z 1 - (Y 1 -A 1 ) v -Y 2 -MY 3 - (A 2 -Y 4 ) w -Z 2 (I) wherein
Z ¹ , Z ² stand for the same or different reactive groups, via which a polymerization can take place, or radicals which contain such reactive groups, the reactive groups being C = C double bonds, C = C triple bonds, Oxirane, thiirane, azirane, cyanate, thiocyanate, isocyanate, carboxylic acid, hydroxy or amino groups, with C = C double bonds being particularly preferred;
Y ¹ , Y ² , Y ³ , Y ⁴ independently of one another for a chemical bond, 0, S, -CO-O-, -O-CO-, -O-CO-O-, -CO-S-, -S -CO-, -CO-N (R) -, -N (R) -CO-, -N (R) -CO-O-, -O-CO-N (R) -, -N (R) - CO-N (R) -, -CH ₂ -O-, -O-CH ₂ -, preferably -CO-O-, -O-CO- or -O-CO-O-,
wherein R is hydrogen or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl;
A ¹ , A ^{2 represent the} same or different spacers, for example linear C ₂ -C ₃₀ alkylene groups, preferably C ₂ -C ₁₂ alkylene groups, which can be interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, optionally simply substituted nitrogen, these interrupting groups not must be adjacent; suitable amine substituents include C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, where the alkylene chains can be substituted by fluorine, chlorine, bromine, cyano, methyl or ethyl; and with particular preference A ¹ and A ^{2 are} - (CH ₂ ) - _n with n = 2 to 6;
v, w represents 0 or 1;
M represents a mesogenic group which preferably has the general formula II: (TY 5 ) m -T (II) wherein
T stands for identical or different divalent isocycloaliphatic, heterocycloaliphatic, isoaromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, preferably 1,4-bonded unsubstituted or substituted 1 to 4 times, for example 1 to 4 times, benzene rings,

wherein
R ¹ for fluorine, chlorine, bromine, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkoxy, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylcarbonyl, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylcarbonyloxy, hydroxy, nitro, CHO or CN, preferably represents chlorine, bromine or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl and in particular methyl; and
n represents an integer from 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 2 and in particular 0 or 1;
Y ⁵ are identical or different bridge members -CO-O-, -O-CO-, -CH ₂ -O-, -O-CH ₂ -, -CO-S-, -S-CO-, -CH ₂ -S -, -S-CH ₂ , -CH = N- or -N = CH- or a direct bond, preferably -CO-O- or -O-CO-, and
m is an integer from 0 to 3, preferably 0, 1 or 2.

The mesogenic group preferably contains one Substituted 1,4-dioxybenzene building block, especially a methyl substituted 1,4-dioxybenzene building block, or an unsubstituted benzene building block.

worin
R¹ für Fluor, Chlor, Brom, C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl, C₁-C₂₀-Alkoxy, C₁-C₂₀-Alkylcarbonyl, C₁-C₂₀-Alkylcarbonyloxy, Hydroxy, Nitro, CHO oder CN steht und
n für eine ganze Zahl von 0 bis 4 steht.Particularly preferred mesogenic groups have the following structures VI or VII:

wherein
R ^{1 represents} fluorine, chlorine, bromine, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkoxy, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylcarbonyl, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylcarbonyloxy, hydroxy, nitro, CHO or CN and
n stands for a whole number from 0 to 4th

The mesogenic group VI R ¹ particularly preferably represents chlorine, bromine or C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl, and in particular methyl and n represents 0 to 2, in particular 0 or 1.

The achiral nematic monofunctionally polymerizable monomer preferably corresponds to the general formula IIIa or IIIb A 3 -Y 2 -MY 3 (A 1 -Y 4 ) w Z 1 (IIIa) or Z 1 - (Y 1 -A 1 ) v -Y 2 -MY 3 -A 3 (IIIb) where Z ¹ , A ¹ , Y ¹ , Y ² , Y ³ , Y ⁴ , M, v and w the above
have the meanings mentioned and A ^{3 represents} a linear C ₂ -C ₃₀ -alkyl group, preferably C ₂ -C ₁₂ -alkyl group, which may be interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, optionally monosubstituted nitrogen, these interrupting groups not being adjacent; suitable amine substituents include C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, where the alkyl groups can be substituted by fluorine, chlorine, bromine, cyano, methyl or ethyl and where A ^{3 is} particularly preferably for CH ₃ - (- CH ₂ ) ₁ groups with 1 = 1 to 7.

The achiral nematic non-polymerizable compound preferably corresponds to the general formula IV A 3 -Y 1 -MY 2 -A 4 (IV)

in which
A ³ , Y ¹ , Y ² , and M have the meanings given above and A ⁴ is defined as A ³ .

The chiral di- or monofunctionally polymerizable monomer preferably corresponds to formula V. [(Z 1 -Y 1 ) O -A 5 -Y 2 -MY 3 ] n X [Y 1 -MY 2 -A 6 - (Y 1 -Z 1 ) p ] m (V) in which
Z ¹ , Y ¹ , Y ² , Y ³ and M are as defined above, o, p stand for 0 or 1, where o and p may not simultaneously stand for 0,
A ⁵ and A ^{6 are the} same or different and
A ⁵ is defined as A ¹ if o = 1 or as A ^{3 is} defined if o = 0;
A ⁶ is defined as A ¹ if p = 1 or as A ^{3 is} defined if p = 0;
n, m represent 0, 1 or 2, the sum n + m being 1 or 2; and
X stands for a chiral residue.

From the chiral residues X of the compounds the general formula V are due to the lighter Availability in particular, those which are derived from sugars, Dinaphthyloder Diphenyl derivatives and optically active glycols, alcohols or amino acids derived. The sugars in particular are pentoses and hexoses and to name derivatives derived from them.

Examples of radicals X are as follows Structures, the terminal Dashes indicate the free valences.

where L ^{1 is} C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy, halogen, COOR ² , OCOR ² , NHCOR ² and R ^{2 is} C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or hydrogen.

Are particularly preferred

In obiger Definition für die Gruppen A¹, A², A³, A⁴, A⁵, A⁶, R¹, R² und L¹ stehen C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl insbesondere für Methyl, Ethyl, n- Propyl, Isopropyl, n-Butyl, sec-Butyl, Isobutyl, tert.-Butyl, Pentyl, Hexyl, Heptyl, Octyl, Nonyl, Decyl, Undecyl, Dodecyl, Tridecyl, Tetradecyl, Pentadecyl, Hexadecyl, Heptadecyl, Octadecyl, Nonadecyl und Eicosyl;
C₁-C₄-Alkyl steht insbesondere für Methyl, Ethyl, n-Propyl, Isopropyl, n-Butyl, sec-Butyl, Isobutyl oder tert.-Butyl;
C₁-C₂₀-Alkoxy steht insbesondere für Alkoxygruppen, deren Alkylrest den oben genannten C₁-C₂₀-Alkylgruppen entspricht; und C₂-C₃₀-Alkylen steht insbesondere für Alkylengruppen, die sich von den oben genannten C₂-C₂₀-Alkylgruppen ableiten, sowie für die linearen C₂₁-C₃₀-Analoga.Furthermore, chiral groups are suitable which have the following structures:

In the above definition for the groups A ¹ , A ² , A ³ , A ⁴ , A ⁵ , A ⁶ , R ¹ , R ² and L ¹ , C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl is in particular methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, Isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl;
C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl is in particular methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl;
C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkoxy is in particular alkoxy whose alkyl radical corresponds to the above-mentioned C ₁ C ₂₀ alkyl groups; and C ₂ -C ₃₀ alkylene stands in particular for alkylene groups which are derived from the above-mentioned C ₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl groups, and for the linear C ₂₁ -C ₃₀ analogues.

Is in Formula I the achiral nematic difunctionally polymerizable monomer n is 0, the miniemulsion contains preferably at least one achiral, nematic difunctional polymerizable monomer in which n is not equal to 0.

• a1) wenigstens ein achirales nematisches difunktionell polymerisierbares Monomer;
• a2) wenigstens zwei achirale nematische monofunktionell polymerisierbare Monomere;
• b) wenigstens eine achirale nematische nicht polymerisierbare Verbindung und
• c) wenigstens ein chirales di- oder monofunktionell polymerisierbares Monomer,
• d) gegebenenfalls ein chirales nicht polymerisierbares Monomer

wobei die nematischen und chiralen Verbindungen wie oben beschrieben definiert sind. vorzugsweise weisen die nematischen Komponenten die gleiche mesogene Gruppe auf.In a preferred embodiment, the disperse phase of the miniemulsion comprises the following components:

• a1) at least one achiral nematic difunctionally polymerizable monomer;
• a2) at least two achiral nematic monofunctionally polymerizable monomers;
• b) at least one achiral nematic non-polymerizable compound and
• c) at least one chiral di- or monofunctionally polymerizable monomer,
• d) optionally a chiral, non-polymerizable monomer

wherein the nematic and chiral compounds are defined as described above. the nematic components preferably have the same mesogenic group.

• a1) ein achirales nematisches difunktionell polymerisierbares Monomer;
• a2) zwei achirale nematische monofunktionell polymerisierbare Monomere;
• b) eine achirale nematische nicht polymerisierbare Verbindung und
• c) ein chirales di- oder monofunktionell polymerisierbares Monomer,
• d) gegebenenfalls ein chirales nicht polymerisierbares Monomer

wobei die nematischen Komponenten die gleiche mesogene Gruppe aufweisen.The disperse phase particularly preferably comprises the following components:

• a1) an achiral nematic difunctionally polymerizable monomer;
• a2) two achiral nematic monofunctionally polymerizable monomers;
• b) an achiral nematic non-polymerizable compound and
• c) a chiral di- or monofunctionally polymerizable monomer,
• d) optionally a chiral, non-polymerizable monomer

the nematic components having the same mesogenic group.

Besonders bevorzugt umfasst die disperse Phase folgende Komponenten:

• a1) ein achirales nematisches difunktionell polymerisierbares Monomer;
• a2) zwei achirale nematische monofunktionell polymerisierbare Monomere;
• a3) ein achirales nematisches difunktionell polymerisierbares Monomer;
• b) eine achirale nematische nicht polymerisierbare Verbindung und
• c) ein chirales di- oder monofunktionell polymerisierbares Monomer,
• d) gegebenenfalls eine chirales nicht polymerisierbares Monomer

wobei die nematischen Komponenten a1), a2) und b) die gleiche mesogene Gruppe aufweisen und a3) eine von dieser verschiedene mesogene Gruppe aufweist.The nematic and chiral compounds are defined as described above. The mesogenic phase of the nematic components a1), a2) and b) preferably contains a 1- to 4-fold substituted benzene building block, particularly preferably a 1- to 4-times substituted 1,4-dioxybenzene building block, the substituents being selected from fluorine, Chlorine, bromine, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkoxy, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylcarbonyl, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkylcarbonyloxy, CHO or CN, preferably under C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, Chlorine and bromine, particularly preferably chlorine and methyl and especially methyl. The benzene component is particularly preferably monosubstituted. In particular, it is a methyl-substituted 1,4-dioxybenzene building block. A particularly preferred mesogenic group has the following structure:

The disperse phase particularly preferably comprises the following components:

• a1) an achiral nematic difunctionally polymerizable monomer;
• a2) two achiral nematic monofunctionally polymerizable monomers;
• a3) an achiral nematic difunctionally polymerizable monomer;
• b) an achiral nematic non-polymerizable compound and
• c) a chiral di- or monofunctionally polymerizable monomer,
• d) optionally a chiral, non-polymerizable monomer

wherein the nematic components a1), a2) and b) have the same mesogenic group and a3) has a different mesogenic group.

The nematic and chiral connections are defined as described above. For the mesogenic phase of the nematic Components a1) a2) and b) the above statements apply. The mesogenic phase of the nematic component a3) preferably contains unsubstituted benzene building blocks.

The disperse phase of the mini emulsion contains preferably 60 to 99 mol%, particularly preferably 65 to 99.7 mol%, of components a1), a2) and b), 0 to 39 mol%, particularly preferred 0 to 34 mol%, component a3) and 0.3 to 10 mol%, particularly preferred 0.3 to 5 mol%, in particular 0.5 to 3 mol%, of component c).

The molar ratio of components a1): a2): b) is preferably 1: 1.5-3.0: 0.5-1.5, particularly preferably 1: 1.8-2.3: 0.8-1.4.

The molar ratio of components a1): a2): b): a3) preferably 1: 1.5-3.0: 0.5-1.5: 1.5-3.5; particularly preferred 1: 1.8-2.3: 0.8-1.4: 1.8-3.0.

gegebenenfallsIn a particular embodiment, the disperse phase contains the following components:

possibly

In addition, the disperse phase the miniemulsion contain auxiliaries. In a preferred embodiment contains the disperse phase of the miniemulsion up to 10, in particular up to 5% by weight of auxiliaries, based on the total weight of the disperse Phase. The auxiliary substances include including W stabilizers, Emulsifiers, rheology modifiers / thickeners, preservatives and substrate wetting additives. The auxiliaries are thereby selected for their suitability as cosmetic ingredients.

Both nonionic and preferably ionic can be used as emulsifiers. The preferred ionic emulsifiers include salts of C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ alkylsulfonic acids or carboxylic acids, particularly preferably the alkali salts and in particular the sodium salts, and also the sulfosuccinates, for example di (2-ethylhexyl) sulfosuccinate.

• (1) Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe;
• (2) C_12,18-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin;
• (3) Glycerinmono- und -diester und Sorbitanmono- und -diester von gesättigten und ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und deren Ethylenoxidanlagerungsprodukte;
• (4) Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest und deren ethoxylierte Analoga;
• (5) Anlagerungsprodukte von 15 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• (6) Polyol- und insbesondere Polyglycerinester, wie z.B. Polyglycerinpolyricinoleat, Polyglycerinpoly-l2-hydroxystearat oder Polyglycerindimerat. Ebenfalls geeignet sind Gemische von Verbindungen aus mehreren dieser Substanzklassen;
• (7) Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 15 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• (8) Partialester auf Basis linearer, verzweigter, ungesättigter bzw. gesättigter C_6/22-Fettsäuren, Ricinolsäure sowie 12-Hydroxystearinsäure und Glycerin, Polyglycerin, Pentaerythrit, Dipentaerythrit, Zuckeralkohole (z.B. Sorbit), Alkylglucoside (z.B. Methylglucosid, Butylglucosid, Laurylglucosid) sowie Polyglucoside (z.B. Cellulose);
• (9) Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphate sowie Mono-, Di- und/oder Tri-PEG-alkylphosphate und deren Salze;
• (10) Wollwachsalkohole;
• (11) Polysiloxan-Polyalkyl-Polyether-Copolymere bzw. entsprechende Derivate;
• (12) Mischester aus Pentaerythrit, Fettsäuren, Citronensäure und Fettalkohol gemäß DE-PS 1165574 und/oder Mischester von Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, Methylglycose und Polyolen, vorzugsweise Glycerin oder Polyglycerin sowie
• (13) Polyalkylenglycole.

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• (1) Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• (2) C _12.18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;
• (3) glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;
• (4) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;
• (5) adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
• (6) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters such as polyglycerol polyricin oleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes of substances are also suitable;
• (7) adducts of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
• (8) _{partial esters} based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C _6/22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid as well as 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerin, polyglycerin, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucoside (e.g. methyl glucoside), butyl glucoside as well as polyglucosides (eg cellulose);
• (9) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;
• (10) wool wax alcohols;
• (11) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• (12) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE-PS 1165574 and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methylglycose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol and
• (13) Polyalkylene glycols.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters as well as sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs, the middle of which Degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C _12.18 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are from DE PS 2024051 known as a refatting agent for cosmetic preparations. C _8/18 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Regarding the glycoside ester, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxyimide-3-carboxylimide each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 C. Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12/18 acylsarcosine. In addition to the ampholytic emulsifiers, quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred as emulsifiers are alkyl ether sulfates, e.g. Sodium lauryl ether sulfate and nonionic Emulsifiers sold under the CTFA name “PEG 40-hydrogenated castor oil "are available.

Suitable as preservatives for example phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid as well as the others listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B, of the Cosmetics Ordinance Classes. Particularly suitable as preservatives that under the INCI name "Benzyl Alcohol and Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone "available Product (trade name Euxyl K 100) as well as that under the INCI name “Phenoxyethanol and Methylparaben and Ethylparaben and Butylparaben and Propylparaben and Isobutylparaben "available Product Phenonip. Also particularly suitable as a preservative are sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, Sodium salicylate and propionic acid and their salts.

If necessary, contains the polymerizable or crosslinkable mixture also stabilizers against UV and weather influences. purpose are e.g. Derivatives of 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, derivatives of 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, Derivatives of 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydrobenzophenone, Derivatives of orthohydroxyphenylbenztriazole, salicylic acid esters, Orthohydroxyphenyl-S-triazines or sterically hindered amines. These substances can used alone or preferably in the form of mixtures.

Rheology modifiers / thickeners increase viscosity and improve flow and application properties. The so-called associative polyurethane thickeners are particularly suitable rheology modifiers. These are hydrophobic modified polyalkylene oxide urethanes, in particular polyethylene oxide or polyethylene oxide / polypropylene oxide urethanes, and their block polymers. The preferred commercially available urethane thickeners include Rheolate ^® from Kronos Titan GmbH, Rheox, Inc., Bermodol ^® from Langen & Co., Collacral ^® LR 8990, Collacral ^® PU 75 and Collacral ^® PU 85 from BASF Aktiengesellschaft and Acrysole ^® from Rhom & Haas. Acnysol RM-8 is particularly preferably used. If, above all, the viscosity is to be increased, the Alcoprint ^® swell thickeners from Allied Colloids / Ciba and Lutexal HEF or HIT from BASF Aktiengesellschaft are also suitable.

Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethcellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example Carbopole 'from Goodrich or Synthalene' from Sigma) , Polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride. Suitable thickeners are also mixtures such as those obtainable under the CTFA name Caprylic / Capric Triglycerid and Sodium Acryylate Copolymers (type Luvigel ^™ EM, BASF AG.

Substrate wetting additives improve the wetting and spreading behavior of the emulsion on the substrate. Suitable substrate wetting additives include nonionic surfactants, polyether-modified polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof. The particularly suitable, commercially available substrate wetting additives include Tego ^® Wet 260 from Tego Chemie and the Byk ^® silicone additives from the Byk 3xx series from Byk Chemie and mixtures of various Byk 3xx additives.

The emulsifiers are preferably used in an amount of up to 3% by weight, preferably up to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the disperse phase. The rheology modifiers / thickeners are preferably used in an amount of up to 1.5% by weight, preferably of up to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the disperse phase. The substrate wetting additives are used in an amount of up to 0.5% by weight, preferably up to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the disperse phase. The preservatives are usually used in an amount of up to 2.0% by weight, preferably up to 0.5, in particular up to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the disperse phase.

In a preferred embodiment the preparations contain pigments or dyes or mixtures it. This is especially for the variation of the desired Color impression advantageous. The preparations according to the invention contain the pigments and / or dyes usually in amounts of up to 20% by weight, in particular up to 10% by weight, preferably up to 5% by weight. The following may be mentioned as non-limiting examples: inorganic Compounds such as finely divided, transparent, platelet-shaped pigments, like those marketed under the name Mica by Merck, Iron oxides, titanium oxide and soot, or organic compounds, e.g. those from the classes of Monoazo pigments, monoazo dyes and their metal salts, disazo pigments, condensed disazo pigments, isoindole derivatives, derivatives of naphthalene or perylene tetracarboxylic acid, Anthraquinone pigments, thioindigo derivatives, azomethine derivatives, quinacridones, Dioxazines, pyrazoloquinazolones, phthalocyanine pigments or basic Dyes such as triarylmethane dyes and their salts. As dyes are particularly suitable for cosmetic purposes suitable and approved substances, such as them for example in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the German Dye Commission Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106, are put together.

The miniemulsion can also, if it is to be photochemically cured, photoinitiators in an amount of 2 to 5% by weight, in the case of curing under inert gas from 0.3 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the disperse phase. contain. Suitable photoinitiators are, for example, isobutylbenzoin ether, 2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyldiphenylphosphine oxide, 1-hydroxycyclohexylphenyl ketone, 2-benzyl-2-dimethylamino-1- (4-morpholinophenyl) furan-1-one, mixtures of benzophenone and 1-hydroxycyclohexylphenyl ketone -Dimethoxy-2-phenylacetophenone, perfluorinated diphenyltitanocenes, 2-methyl-l- (4- [methylthio] phenyl) -2- (4-morpholinyl) -1-propanone, 2-hydroxy-2-methyl-1-phenyl- propan-1-one, 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl-2-hydroxy-2-propyl ketone, 2,2-diethoxyacetophenone, 4-benzoyl-4'-methyldiphenyl sulfide, ethyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, mixtures of 2-isopropylthioxanthone and 4-isopropylthioxanthone, 2- (dimethylamino) ethylbenzoate, d, l-camphorquinone, ethyl-d, l-camphorquinone, mixtures of benzophenone and 4-methylbenzophenone, benzophenone, 4,4'-bisdimethylamine-benzophenone , (h ⁵ -cyclopentadienyl) (h ⁵ -isopropylphenyl) -iron (II) hexafluorophosphate, triphenylsulfonium hexafluorophosphate or mixtures of triphenylsulfonium salts, as well as butane ioldiacrylate, dipropylene glycol diacrylate, hexanediol diacrylate, 4- (1,1-dimethylethyl) cyclohexyl acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate and tripropylene glycol diacrylate.

Photoinitiators are preferred used that do not lead to yellowing, for example benzophenone or morpholine compounds.

For chooses the cosmetic application the skilled person here the initiators suitable in cosmetic compositions out.

The mini emulsion according to the invention contains 20 to 95% by weight, preferably 50 to 60% by weight, of the disperse phase on the total weight of the emulsion.

Through the configuration according to the invention The composition of the disperse phase becomes its drop formation and thus the transfer to an aqueous Mini emulsion especially relieved. Because of the small proportion on binders, dispersants and thickeners and Emulsifiers can be compared to aqueous dispersions of the state the technology a coating with surprisingly advantageous color flop, Shine and color strength be generated. Another advantage of the mini-emulsion according to the invention is in that no organic solution or diluent be used and it is therefore more environmentally friendly. In addition is them with a storage stability of at least 6 months much more stable than all previous ones known aqueous Emulsions of cholesteric mixtures. The compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for coating and / or coloring keratin Surfaces like for example hair. In a preferred embodiment, the preparations for coating damaged Hair, for example in so-called "hair repair" preparations.

In a preferred embodiment the preparations are used in the form of hair care products.

In a preferred embodiment the preparations are used in the form of hair dyes.

The preparations according to the invention are suitable especially in preparations of decorative cosmetics, such as in eyeshadow, mascara, lipsticks, make-up formulations, toned Day creams, powders, eyeliners and nail polishes.

continue its as preparations of decorative cosmetics called concealers, theater paint, lipsticks, Eye pencils, primers, blushes and eyebrow pencils.

The mini-emulsions according to the invention are produced by all components of the disperse Phase are emulsified in water in a conventional manner and the conventional emulsion obtained is then treated with a high-pressure homogenizer. The components of the emulsion can either all be initially introduced or the slightly warmed cholesteric mixture can be added to the aqueous phase, which optionally contains auxiliaries.

The conventional manufacture of a Emulsion is done by adding energy to the mixture, under other by shaking, Beating, stirring, turbulent mixing, injecting one liquid into the other, vibrations and cavitation in the mixture, e.g. Ultrasonic. Used for this dynamic or static systems, e.g. Stirred tanks, agitator mills, roller mills, rotor-stator systems, Emulsifying centrifuges, colloid mills, Gear rim dispersing machines, ultrasonic homogenizers, jet dispersers, Shear gap mixer and other systems sufficient to the skilled worker are known. An Ultra-Turrax is particularly preferably used.

With the available here Emulsion is a macro emulsion, i.e. an emulsion whose disperse phase has a volume-average particle diameter in the μm range having.

This macro emulsion is then used treated with a high pressure homogenizer. Suitable high pressure homogenizers contain abrasion-resistant shaving units. These include, for example High pressure homogenizers from APV Invensys, Bran & Lübbe (type Meganizer) and Niro Soavi. The principle is based on the fact that the Brings pre-emulsion with a high pressure pump to about 400 to 1000 bar accelerates and relaxes an annular gap. Particularly preferred However, the microfluidizer from Microfluidics with abrasion-resistant Y and Z chambers used. The mixture is at one pressure from 50 to 2000 bar, preferably from 500 to 1500 bar and in particular homogenized at about 1000 bar.

With the available here Emulsion is a mini emulsion, i.e. an emulsion whose disperse phase has a volume average particle diameter of about 100 nm to 1 mm. The disperse phase preferably has a volume-average Particle diameter from 100 to 600 nm, particularly preferably from 200 to 500 and in particular from 300 to 400 nm.

Another subject of the present Invention is a method for coating keratin-containing surfaces and / or for coloring keratin-containing surfaces, in particular Hair, in which a preparation according to the invention is applied to the surface, optionally oriented, optionally dried and polymerized.

The mini emulsion can be both undiluted and also diluted with water be used. The emulsion can continue in usual cosmetic formulations are available, examples include: aqueous or watery-alcoholic Solutions, O / W and W / O emulsions in the form of shampoos, creams, foams, sprays, Gels or gel sprays. These formulations can contain customary additional auxiliaries.

It is preferred in a concentration from 30 to 50% by weight, particularly preferably 35 to 45% by weight, for example about 40 wt .-%, disperse phase, based on the total weight of the Emulsion. However, higher or higher are also suitable lower concentrations of the disperse phase.

For coating or coloring the keratin-containing surfaces becomes the preparation according to the invention applied to the substrate, optionally oriented, optionally dried and polymerized.

The orientation of the cholesteric The shift usually takes place spontaneously when applied or after application mechanically, for example by combing, brushing or rubbing. Preferably however, the orientation takes place spontaneously under the influence of the Applying shear forces.

Then the applied cholesteric layer using conventional Processes, for example with hot air (hair dryer), are dried. to Achieving a particularly pronounced color flop is the cholesteric Layer just before the full Drying preferably again mechanically, for example one Comb or a brush, oriented.

Polymerization of cholesteric Layer can be thermal, by electron beam or preferably done photochemically.

Own to trigger the polymerization themselves polymerization initiators that are either thermal or photochemical disintegrate, form radicals, and thus trigger the polymerization. there are among the thermally activated polymerization initiators preferred those between 10 and 180 ° C, especially between 15 and 80 ° C, especially between 20 and 40 ° C disintegrated.

Particularly preferred polymerization initiators are peroxides such as dibenzoyl peroxide, di-tert-butyl peroxide, peresters, percarbonates, perketals, hydroperoxides, but also inorganic peroxides such as H ₂ O ₂ , salts of peroxosulfuric acid and peroxodisulfuric acid, azo compounds, boralkyl compounds and homolytically decomposing hydrocarbons. The initiators and / or photoinitiators, which, depending on the requirements of the polymerized material, are used in amounts between 0.01 and 15% by weight, based on the polymerizable components, can be used individually or in combination to take advantage of advantageous synergistic effects be applied.

Free radical polymerization initiators are all those which are capable of trigger a radical emulsion polymerization.

To at body-friendly temperatures to be able to network combined systems are also used, which consist of at least one organic reducing agent and at least one peroxide and / or hydroperoxide are composed, e.g. tert-butyl hydroperoxide with the sodium salt of hydroxymethanesulfinic acid or hydrogen peroxide with ascorbic acid. Combined systems are also used that have a small amount one soluble in the polymerization medium Contain metal compound, the metallic component in several Severity levels can occur, e.g. Ascorbic acid / iron (II) sulfate / hydrogen peroxide, being instead of ascorbic acid also often the sodium salt of hydroxymethanesulfinic acid, sodium sulfite, sodium bisulfite or sodium bisulfite and instead of hydrogen peroxide tert-butyl hydroperoxide or Alkali peroxodisulfate and / or ammonium peroxodisulfate used become. Preferred initiators are the ammonium or alkali metal salts of peroxosulfates or peroxodisulfates, especially sodium or potassium peroxodisulfate.

Polymerization initiators are suitable as radical formers, Oxidizing agents, reducing agents and / or oxidizing agent-reducing agent initiator systems.

The molecular weight of the polymers to control the polymerization, if appropriate in the presence by regulators. Suitable regulators are, for example, aldehydes, such as formaldehyde, acetaldehyde, Propionaldehyde, n-butyraldehyde and isobutyraldehyde, formic acid, ammonium formate, Hydroxylammonium sulfate and hydroxylammonium phosphate. Furthermore, controllers are used which contain sulfur in organically bound form, such as organic compounds having SH groups, such as thio malic acid, thioglycol acetic acid, mercaptoacetic acid, mercaptopropionic acid, mercaptoethanol, mercaptopropanol, Mercaptobutanols, mercaptohexanol, dodecyl mercaptan and tert-dodecyl mercaptan. Can as a controller continue to use salts of hydrazine, such as hydrazinium sulfate become. The amounts of regulator, based on those to be polymerized Monomers are 0 to 20, preferably 0.5 to 15 wt .-%.

• (i) eine wässrige Miniemulsion, deren disperse Phase folgende Komponenten umfasst:
• a) wenigstens ein achirales nematisches polymerisierbares Monomer, ausgewählt unter polyfunktionell polymerisierbaren Monomeren, monofunktionell polymerisierbaren Monomeren oder Gemische davon;
• b) wenigstens eine achirale nematische nicht polymerisierbare Verbindung und
• c) wenigstens ein chirales di- oder monofunktionell polymerisierbares Monomer
• d) gegebenenfalls wenigstens ein chirales nicht polymerisierbares Monomer und
• (ii) mindestens ein Reduktionsmittel.

In a preferred embodiment of the method, a cosmetic preparation is included

• (i) an aqueous miniemulsion, the disperse phase of which comprises the following components:
• a) at least one achiral nematic polymerizable monomer selected from polyfunctionally polymerizable monomers, monofunctionally polymerizable monomers or mixtures thereof;
• b) at least one achiral nematic non-polymerizable compound and
• c) at least one chiral di- or monofunctionally polymerizable monomer
• d) optionally at least one chiral non-polymerizable monomer and
• (ii) at least one reducing agent.

applied to the keratin-containing surface, optionally oriented, optionally dried and polymerized by adding an oxidation developer.

In one embodiment of the method the keratin-containing surfaces treated with a permanent stain before applying the mini emulsion, the desired one To achieve a fundamental tone.

In one embodiment of the method the keratin-containing surfaces treated with a primer before coating or coloring.

Are particularly suitable as a primer the usual in hair cosmetics Polymers and mixtures of these polymers, especially those which reinforce the coating (Increase liability) or increase the coloring with the mini emulsion.

Suitable as hair cosmetic polymers anionic, cationic, amphoteric and neutral Polymers.

Examples of anionic polymers are homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide and their salts, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, water-soluble or water-dispersible polyesters, polyurethanes and polyureas. Particularly suitable polymers are copolymers of tert-butyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, methacrylic acid (for example Luvimer ^TM 100 P), copolymers of ethyl acrylate and methacrylic acid (for example Luviflex ^TM Soft), copolymers of N-tert-butyl acrylamide, ethyl acrylate, acrylic acid (ultrahold strong ^TM ), copolymers of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and optionally further vinyl esters (e.g. Luviset CA66 ^TM ), maleic anhydride copolymers, if appropriate reacted with alcohols, anionic polysiloxanes, for example carboxy-functional copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, tert-butyl acrylate, methacrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid with hydrophobic Monomers, for example C ₄ -C ₃₀ alkyl esters of (meth) acrylic acid, C ₄ -C ₃₀ alkyl vinyl esters, C ₄ -C ₃₀ alkyl vinyl ethers and hyaluronic acid, as well as other polymers known under the trade names Amerhold DR-25, Ultrahold ^™ , Luviset ^TM PUR, Acronal ^TM , Acudyne ^TM , Lovocryl ^TM , Versatyl ^TM , Amphomer ^TM (28-4910, LV-71), Placise ^TM L53, Gantrez ^TM ES 425, Advantage Plus ^TM , Omnirez ^TM 2000, Resyn ^TM 28-1310, Resyn ^TM 28-2930, Balance ^TM (0/55), Acudyne ^TM 255, Aristoflex ^TM A or Eastman AQ ^TM .

Other other polymers are cationic polymers with the name Polyquaternium according to INCI, for example copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylimidazolium salts (Luviquat ^TM FC, Luviquat ^TM HM, Luviquat ^TM MS, Luviquat ^TM Care), copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized (Luviquat ^™ PQ 11), copolymers of N-vinylcaprolactam / N-vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylimidazolium salts (Luviquat ^TM Hold), cationic cellulose derivatives (Polyquaternium-4 and -10), acrylamide copolymers (Polyquaternium-), Styleeze ^TM CC-10, Aquaflex ^TM SF-40 and chitosan derivatives.

Neutral polymers are also suitable as further polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate and / or vinyl propionate, polysiloxanes, polyvinylcaprolactam and copolymers with N-vinylpyrrolidone, polyethyleneimines and their salts, polyvinylamines and their salts, cellulose derivatives, polyasparagens derivatives. These include the polymer Luviskol ^TM (K, VA, Plus), PVP K, PVP / VA, Advantage ^TM HC and H ₂ OLD EP-1 known under the following trade names.

Also suitable are biopolymers, i.e. Polymers made from natural renewable raw materials and natural Monomer units are constructed, e.g. Cellulose derivatives, chitin, Chitosan, DNA, hyaluronic acid and RNA derivatives.

Other polymers are also betaine Polymers such as Yukaformer (R205, SM) and Diaformer.

Als Grundierung eignen sich insbesondere Zubereitungen, die in der Haarkosmetik üblichen Farbstoffe und/oder Pigmente enthalten.The following list contains the INCI / CTFA names as well as the manufacturers of the polymers listed above:

Preparations which contain dyes and / or pigments customary in hair cosmetics are particularly suitable as a primer.

The expert chooses the color of the one to be used Dyes and / or pigments depending on the desired end effect. Especially use is preferred in order to achieve a good color effect of black dyes and / or pigments, is also preferred the use of dyes and / or pigments, which are natural Color corresponds to the surface to be coated or colored with keratin.

Suitable dyes are, in particular, the substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as described, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106.

In a preferred embodiment contains the primer of both one or more hair cosmetic polymers as well at least one dye and / or pigment.

In one embodiment of the method the keratin-containing surfaces treated with a permanent stain before applying the mini emulsion, the desired one To achieve a fundamental tone.

Another subject of the present The invention relates to a method for coating keratin-containing surfaces and / or for coloring keratin-containing surfaces, in particular Hair, in which a preparation according to claim 2 is applied to the surface, wherein the preparation as components (ii) is either a reducing agent or contains an oxidizing agent optionally oriented, optionally dried and polymerized by adding an oxidizing agent if the preparation as components (ii) contained a reducing agent or by adding an oxidizing agent if the preparation contained a reducing agent as component (ii).

Of course, the cholesteric miniemulsion according to the invention can also be processed into cholesteric effect pigments. The procedure corresponds to that from the prior art, for example the DE-A 197 38 369 , known processes for producing cholesteric effect pigments, which comprise applying a cholesteric layer to a support, optionally orienting the layer, drying, polymerizing, detaching the hardened layer from the support and comminuting it into pigments.

Another subject of the present The invention is a two-component system for coating and / or Coloring of keratin-containing surfaces, the two storage-stable according to the invention aqueous Contains mini emulsions, which, e.g. with otherwise the same composition, only differ in the concentration of components c). Preferably the concentrations of component c) are chosen such that the first emulsion is an LC effect coating with a reflection wavelength in the range from 300 to 380 nm and the second emulsion an LC effect coating with a reflection wavelength in the range of 700 to 800 nm. LC stands for Liquid Crystal. If you mix these two mini emulsions, you can add depending the proportions of the two emulsions produce LC coatings with defined reflection wavelengths, being all shades adjustable with reflection between 400 and 630 nm.

The required concentration of Component c) is the layer thickness of the cholesteric layer, depending on the color of the substrate and other factors.

The following examples are intended to explanation serve the invention, but without restricting it.

1. Manufacturing example

1.1. Making one miniemulsion

42,1 Gew.-Teile Emulgator K30 (Bayer; ein überwiegend sekundäres C₁₀-C₁₈-Alkyl-Natriumsulfonat; 40 %ig in Wasser)
24,1 Gew.-Teile Acrysol^® RM-8 (Rhom & Haas; Polyurethanverdicker; 35 %ig in Propylenglycol/Wasser)
8,4 Gew.-Teile Tego^® wet 260 (Tego Chemie; Substratbenetzungsadditiv; 10 %ig verteilt in Wasser)
529,0 Gew.-Teile Wasser.Batch: 842.0 parts by weight of cholesterol mixture

42.1 parts by weight of emulsifier K30 (Bayer; a predominantly secondary C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ alkyl sodium sulfonate; 40% in water)
24.1 parts by weight of Acrysol ^® RM-8 (Rhom &Haas; polyurethane thickener; 35% in propylene glycol / water)
8.4 parts by weight of Tego ^® wet 260 (Tego Chemie; substrate wetting additive; 10% dispersed in water)
529.0 parts by weight of water.

The cholesteric aqueous mixture was made using an Ultra-Turrax pre-emulsified. After an emulsification time of 15 minutes, one was obtained Pre-emulsion with a particle size of 1 up to 2 mm.

The pre-emulsion was then with a microfluidizer from Microfluidics with a Y and Z chamber homogenized about 1000 bar. An aqueous, colorless emulsion was also obtained a volume average particle size between 200 and 400 nm. The storage stability was more than 6 months.

1.2. Performing one Hair treatment (without pigments)

First, the damp hair wetted with a styling water after washing.

STYLING WATER

Production of the styling Waters:

Mix phase A. The components of the phase Add B one by one and distribute evenly. Then phase C mix in and fill everything.

Then through a pump spray bottle the inventive, strong diluted Mini emulsion sprayed on the pretreated hair, kneaded and when combing with oriented in a comb.

By subsequent, repeated application of the styling water, the thin layer applied is fixed when drying.

Comparable results can be obtained from Use of an aerosol foam for the hair fixation. For example, the following hair setting foam be applied:

HAIR FOAM

production:

Mix phase A. The components of the phase Add B one by one and distribute evenly. With phase C bottling.

1.3 Perform a Hair treatment (without pigments)

The clean, dry hair comes with of the invention, strong diluted Mini emulsion treated (spray through a pump spray bottle or manual wetting with the mixture) and by combing with a comb or by brushing with a brush oriented. Subsequently the cholesteric phase is reduced by using a hairspray, a hair lacquer or a hair setting gel.

1.4 Perform one Hair treatment (with pigments)

The hair is pretreated using a colored pump setting foam, for example the following formulation: Pump mousse with a brown color

production:

Except for Sicomet Braun Z 7140 10% weigh everything together in water, stir until dissolved. Sicomet brown Z 7140 10% in water with stirring Enter slowly and stir well. Before bottling add some glass balls.

Then through a pump spray bottle the inventive, strong diluted Mini emulsion sprayed on the pretreated hair, kneaded and when combing with oriented in a comb. When drying - also using a hair dryer - the oriented phase fixed by the setting agent. An even more stable one Fixation received one through a finish with hairspray or hair lacquer.

1.5 Perform one Hair treatment (with chemical fixation)

The damp or dry hair will with the invention, strong diluted Mini emulsion treated (spray through a pump spray bottle or manual wetting with the mixture) and by combing with a comb or by brushing with a brush oriented. Subsequently is the cholesteric phase by applying a redox reaction chemically fixed on the hair. For example, one will be fresh prepared in 2% ascorbic acid solution Water to which 50 ppm iron (II) sulfate heptahydrate was added applied to the hair treated with the cholesteric systems. The redox reaction is caused by the action of a 2% aqueous Hydrogen peroxide solution triggered after application to the hair. The exposure time is 10 minutes at room temperature, but may be shortened by exposure to heat. Through intensive rinsing with lukewarm water and a subsequent acidic rinse (for Example with 5% aqueous Lactic acid solution) the remnants of the redox treatment removed.

Claims (30)

Cosmetic preparation containing at least an aqueous Mini emulsion whose disperse phase comprises the following components a) at least one achiral nematic polymerizable monomer, selected among polyfunctionally polymerizable monomers, monofunctional polymerizable monomers or mixtures thereof; b) at least an achiral nematic non-polymerizable compound and c) at least one chiral di- or monofunctionally polymerizable monomer d) optionally at least one chiral non-polymerizable monomer Containing cosmetic preparation (i) at least an aqueous Mini emulsion whose disperse phase comprises the following components a) at least one achiral nematic polymerizable monomer, selected among polyfunctionally polymerizable monomers, monofunctional polymerizable monomers or mixtures thereof; b) at least an achiral nematic non-polymerizable compound and c) at least one chiral di- or monofunctionally polymerizable monomer d) optionally at least one chiral non-polymerizable monomer (ii) at least one radical generator Preparation according to one of the preceding claims containing at least one cosmetic dye and / or pigment. Use of an aqueous miniemulsion, the disperse phase of which comprises the following components: a) at least one achiral nematic polymerizable monomer, selected from polyfunctionally polymerizable monomers, monofunctionally polymerizable monomers or mixtures thereof; b) at least one achiral nematic non-polymerizable compound and c) at least one chiral di- or monofunctionally polymerizable monomer d) optionally at least one chiral non-polymerizable monomer for coating and / or coloring keratin surfaces. Use according to one of the preceding claims in preparations decorative cosmetics, especially in eyeshadow, mascara, Lipsticks, make-up formulations, tinted day creams, powders, eyeliners and nail polishes. Use according to one of the preceding claims in hair care products and / or hair dyes. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations in which the disperse phase of the aqueous Mini emulsion comprises the following components: a1) at least one achiral nematic difunctional polymerizable monomer; a2) at least two achiral nematic monofunctionally polymerizable monomers; b) at least one achiral nematic non-polymerizable Connection and c) at least one chiral di- or monofunctional polymerizable monomer d) optionally at least one chiral non-polymerizable monomer. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations the nematic components having the same mesogenic group. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations the disperse phase of the aqueous Miniemulsion the following components: a1) an achiral nematic difunctionally polymerizable monomer, a2) two achiral nematic monofunctionally polymerizable monomers, a3) a achiral nematic difunctional polymerizable monomer, b) an achiral nematic non-polymerizable compound and c) a chiral di- or monofunctionally polymerizable monomer d) optionally at least one chiral non-polymerizable monomer, in which the nematic components a1), a2) and b) the same mesogenic Have group and a3) a mesogenic group different from this having. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations the mesogenic group of the nematic components a1), a2) and b) a substituted 1,4-dioxybenzene building block contains. Preparation according to claim 10, wherein the disperse phase of the aqueous mini emulsion comprises the following components

Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the disperse phase of the aqueous mini-emulsion 60 to 99.7 mol% of components a1), a2) and b), 0 to 39 mol% of component a3) and 0.3 contains up to 10 mol% of component c), the molar ratio of components a1): a2): b) being in the range from 1.5-3.0: 0.5-1.5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims at the most 10, especially at most 5% by weight of auxiliaries, based on the total weight of the disperse Phase. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims a volume-average droplet size of the disperse Phase from 100 to 600 nm. Preparation according to one of claims 2 to 14, characterized in that that the radical generator selected is from the group consisting of polymerization initiators, oxidizing agents, Reducing agent and an oxidizing agent-reducing agent initiator system. Preparations according to claim 15, characterized in that the polymerization initiator is selected from organic and / or inorganic peroxides. Process for coating keratin-containing surfaces and / or for coloring surfaces containing keratin, especially hair, where you have a preparation according to a of the preceding claims to the surface applies, oriented if necessary, optionally dries and polymerized. A method according to claim 17, characterized in that the microemulsion is cross-linked on the keratin-containing surface. A method according to claim 17, characterized in that networking with radiation curing, especially UV radiation and / or performed thermally. A method according to claim 18, characterized in that the crosslinking is carried out with an oxidizing agent-reducing agent initiator system. A method according to claim 20, characterized in that as an oxidizing agent-reducing agent initiator system, hydrogen peroxide and ascorbic acid and / or t-butyl peroxide and ascorbic acid. A method according to claim 17, characterized in that a permanent coloring of the surface containing keratin performs. A method according to claim 17, characterized in that you apply a primer before applying the mini emulsion. A method according to claim 23, characterized in that the primer contains at least one hair cosmetic polymer. A method according to claim 23, characterized in that the primer has at least one dye and / or pigment contains. Process for coating keratin-containing surfaces and / or for coloring surfaces containing keratin, especially hair, where you have a preparation according to claim 2 on the surface applies, the preparation as components (ii) either a Contains reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, optionally oriented, optionally dries and polymerizes by adding an oxidizing agent if the preparation as components (ii) a reducing agent contained, or by adding an oxidizing agent if the preparation contained a reducing agent as component (ii). Two-component system for coating and / or Coloring of keratin-containing surfaces, containing two storage-stable aqueous emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, wherein otherwise the same Composition, the concentrations of components c) each different are. The two-component system of claim 27, wherein the Concentrations of component c) are selected such that the first emulsion an LC effect coating with a reflection wavelength in the range from 300 to 400 nm and the second emulsion an LC effect coating with a reflection wavelength in Range 600 to 800 nm results. Use of a two-component system according to claim 27 and / or 28 in cosmetic preparations, especially in hair cosmetic Preparations. Use of a two-component system according to claim 27 and / or 28 for coating and / or coloring keratin Surfaces.