DE102022205252A1 - Two-stage coloring process for improved hair coloring with natural dyes - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a method and a kit for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, using selected natural dyes, which includes pretreatment with an active ingredient that improves the color intensity.

Description

The invention relates to a method and a kit for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, using selected natural dyes and a basic amino acid.

The desire to change your own hair color is a great need for many consumers. To satisfy this need, the cosmetic industry provides a diverse range of products. Hair dyes that achieve particularly long-lasting coloring with high coverage are usually oxidation dyes. These use oxidizing and alkalizing agents that can damage the hair structure. Certain cationic direct azo dyes are also capable of enabling hair color changes with excellent fastness properties. However, the azo dyes mentioned are synthetic dyes.

A growing number of consumers have a desire for hair dyes and hair coloring processes that are based on natural dyes, even if these products and processes are often inferior to the aforementioned products and processes in terms of fastness properties, opacity and variety of colors.

In addition to dyeing with henna, which is obtained from the Lawsonia inermis plant, coloring hair with certain polyphenols, especially tannins and pseudotannins, has long been known. Such polyphenols are extracted from certain parts of plants. However, it is also possible to use powdered plant parts with a high polyphenol content in the dye. In addition, it is possible to use pure polyphenols, in particular tannic acid, according to the invention. Since the natural polyphenols used for coloring are mostly uncharged or anionically charged molecules, their adhesion to the surface of keratin fibers, such as hair, which tends to be negatively charged, is limited, especially if the surface only shows a low degree of damage.

State of the art

There has been no lack of efforts in the prior art to improve the adhesion of the polyphenol dye to keratin fibers such as hair. For example, the adhesion of the polyphenol dye to the hair or to the keratin fibers and thus the fastness of the coloring as well as the color achieved and the color intensity can be positively influenced by certain divalent or trivalent metal salts. The disclosure document EP327345A2 discloses a composition for darkening hair, comprising a first component formulated as a shampoo and containing at least one ferrous salt (ie, a mordant), and a second component containing at least one organic compound, e.g. B. propyl gallate, as a coloring agent. After application of the second component, the hair becomes dark colored as a result of the formation of a dark colored complex of iron (II) and propyl gallate. The disclosure document WO2010094207A1 discloses a method for coloring hair, in which the hair is first treated with a keratin reducing agent to thereby break the hair structure, then a composition containing an iron (II) salt as a mordant and an antioxidant, and then a hair coloring composition which is a Contains emollient and a polyphenol colorant to be applied to the hair. Such mordants can accumulate on the hair and make the hair brittle and brittle. Certain mordants, such as Cu(II) ions, can shade the hair in an undesirable way, particularly with a green tinge.

The addition of natural dyes to oxidative hair dyes is also popular. The coloring cream is mixed with an aqueous preparation containing hydrogen peroxide shortly before it is applied to the hair. The coloring cream predominantly contains oxidation dye precursors, for example toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole sulfate, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 4-amino-m-cresol and m-aminophenol ; The content of natural dyes is only used for shading. The coloring achieved in this way is essentially a usual oxidative coloring with high fastness properties. The problem of the lack of adhesion of the natural dye plays a minor role in such products. A corresponding product is published in Mintel's GNPD database under registration number 1867781. Out of WO2017108551A1 A process for oxidative hair coloring is known in which only natural dyes, such as quebracho extract, are used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide, but no oxidation dye precursors. In any case, the hair is damaged by the oxidizing agent.

Task

The present invention was based on the object of providing a method for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, using natural dyes, which achieves coloring with good fastness properties.

The present invention was also based on the object of providing a method for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, using natural dyes, which causes the least possible damage to the keratin structure.

A further object was to provide a process for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, using natural dyes, which achieves coloring with high color intensity.

A further object was to provide a process for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, using natural dyes, which achieves particularly chromatic colorings.

Surprisingly, it was found that the coloring process described in the patent claims achieves intensive coloring using natural dyes alone, without damaging the hair structure.

• a) Auftragen einer wässrigen Zusammensetzung (PT), die mindestens eine basische Aminosäure, ausgewählt aus Arginin, Lysin, Histidin oder Ornithin, enthält und einen pH-Wert im Bereich von 7,1 bis 13, bevorzugt im Bereich von 7,6 bis 11,0, besonders bevorzugt 8,0 bis 10,0, außerordentlich bevorzugt 8,0 bis 9,0 jeweils gemessen bei 20°C, aufweist, auf die Keratinfasern,
• b) Einwirkenlassen für eine Zeit von 30 Sekunden bis 60 Minuten, bevorzugt 5 bis 45 Minuten, besonders bevorzugt 15 bis 30 Minuten,
• c) Spülen der Keratinfasern mit Wasser,
• d) optional Trocknen der Keratinfasern,
• e) direkt anschließend Auftragen einer wässrigen Färbezusammensetzung (F), die einen pH-Wert im Bereich von 3,0 bis 10,5, bevorzugt im Bereich von 4,0 bis 9,5, besonders bevorzugt im Bereich von 5,0 bis 9,0, außerordentlich bevorzugt im Bereich von 7,1 bis 8,0, jeweils bei 20°C, aufweist, auf die Keratinfasern, wobei die Färbezusammensetzung (F) mindestens ein Polyphenol enthält, das
  • - auf dem Shikimat-Biosyntheseweg erhältlich ist und
  • - mindestens 2 Hydroxygruppen im Molekül aufweist und
  • - eine Molmasse im Bereich von 170 bis 20.000 g/mol aufweist; weiterhin f) Einwirkenlassen für eine Zeit von 30 Sekunden bis 60 Minuten, bevorzugt 5 bis 45 Minuten, besonders bevorzugt 20 bis 35 Minuten, außerordentlich bevorzugt 25 bis 30 Minuten,
• g) Spülen der Keratinfasern mit Wasser,
• h) optional Trocknen der Keratinfasern,

wobei in dem Verfahren kein Wasserstoffperoxid und keine Ionen und Verbindungen von Metallen, die von Alkalimetallen und Erdalkalimetallen verschieden sind, eingesetzt werden.The subject of the present invention is a process for the non-oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, with natural dyes, which comprises the following process steps in the order given:

• a) Applying an aqueous composition (PT) which contains at least one basic amino acid selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or ornithine and a pH in the range from 7.1 to 13, preferably in the range from 7.6 to 11 .0, particularly preferably 8.0 to 10.0, extremely preferably 8.0 to 9.0, each measured at 20 ° C, on the keratin fibers,
• b) leave to act for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 15 to 30 minutes,
• c) rinsing the keratin fibers with water,
• d) optionally drying the keratin fibers,
• e) immediately afterwards applying an aqueous coloring composition (F) which has a pH in the range from 3.0 to 10.5, preferably in the range from 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferably in the range from 5.0 to 9 .0, extremely preferably in the range from 7.1 to 8.0, in each case at 20 ° C, on the keratin fibers, the coloring composition (F) containing at least one polyphenol, which
  • - is available via the shikimate biosynthesis route and
  • - has at least 2 hydroxy groups in the molecule and
  • - has a molar mass in the range from 170 to 20,000 g/mol; further f) leaving it to act for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 20 to 35 minutes, extremely preferably 25 to 30 minutes,
• g) rinsing the keratin fibers with water,
• h) optionally drying the keratin fibers,

wherein no hydrogen peroxide and no ions and compounds of metals other than alkali metals and alkaline earth metals are used in the process.

In order to preserve the hair-friendly potential of the natural dyes, the claimed method is preferably limited to those methods in which the keratin fibers are not treated with an oxidizing agent for a period of up to 7 days before application of the compositions (PT) and (F). became.

The oxidizing agents that are usually used in hair cosmetics, but with which no hair treatment is intended according to the invention, and not even as a pretreatment, are tough len hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, perbromates, percarbonates, perborates and percarbamides. In the context of the invention, atmospheric oxygen does not represent an oxidizing agent.

In order to preserve the hair-friendly potential of the natural dyes, preferred methods according to the invention are limited to those methods in which the keratin fibers are not treated with a keratin-reducing compound for a period of up to 7 days before the compositions (PT) and (F) are applied were treated.

The keratin-reducing compounds that are usually used in hair cosmetics, but with which no hair treatment is intended according to the invention, nor even as a pretreatment, include thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, cysteamine and the salts of the aforementioned compounds , further sulfites, especially sodium sulfite, hydrogen sulfites, especially sodium hydrogen sulfite, and metabisulfites, especially sodium metabisulfite, as well as mixtures of these keratin-reducing compounds.

As a first process step, an aqueous composition (PT) which contains at least one basic amino acid selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or ornithine and has a pH value in the range of 7 is applied to the hair to be colored, which is preferably dry. 1 to 13, preferably in the range from 7.6 to 11.0, particularly preferably 8.0 to 10.0, extremely preferably 8.0 to 9.0, each measured at 20 ° C. The composition (PT) remains on the keratin fibers for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 15 to 30 minutes and is then rinsed out with water.

The keratin fibers are preferably dried after rinsing.

Of the basic amino acids arginine, lysine, histidine and ornithine, at least one of which is contained in the composition (PT) used according to the invention, arginine, lysine and histidine are preferred, especially with a view to improving the color intensity of the subsequent natural dye dyeing and lysine is particularly preferred, and arginine is extremely preferred.

Coloring processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains at least one basic amino acid, selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or ornithine, in a total amount of 0.1 - 17% by weight, preferably 0.3 - 10 % by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 - 5.0% by weight, extremely preferably 1.7 - 3% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition (PT).

Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains arginine in an amount of 0.1 - 17% by weight, preferably 0.3 - 10% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 - 5.0 % by weight, extremely preferably 1.7-3% by weight, based on the weight of the composition (PT).

Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains lysine in an amount of 0.1 - 17% by weight, preferably 0.3 - 10% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 - 5.0 % by weight, extremely preferably 1.7-3% by weight, based on the weight of the composition (PT).

Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains histidine in an amount of 0.1 - 17% by weight, preferably 0.3 - 10% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 - 5.0 % by weight, extremely preferably 1.7-3% by weight, based on the weight of the composition (PT).

Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains ornithine in an amount of 0.1 - 17% by weight, preferably 0.3 - 10% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0 - 5.0 % by weight, extremely preferably 1.7-3% by weight, based on the weight of the composition (PT).

Chiral amino acids have a stereogenic center and can occur in mirror-image forms. For example, arginine occurs in the form of L-arginine and D-arginine. Both the L form of a basic amino acid and its D form as well as mixtures thereof are covered by the present invention. In the context of the present invention, both possible enantiomers can therefore be used as specific compound or mixtures thereof, in particular as racemates, can be used equally. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally occurring isomer form, usually in the L configuration.

Accordingly, a dyeing method preferred according to the invention is characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains at least one basic amino acid selected from L-arginine, L-lysine, L-histidine or L-ornithine.

Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT), based on its weight, contains water in an amount of 70 - 98% by weight, preferably 75 - 95% by weight, particularly preferably 80 - 92% by weight .-%, extremely preferably 85-90% by weight.

Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) for pH adjustment contains a buffer system selected from a mixture of a medium-strong or weak acid with its conjugate or corresponding base (or corresponding acid).

Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains a buffer system for pH adjustment, selected from a hydrogen phosphate salt/dihydrogen phosphate salt mixture. Suitable salts are the sodium salts and the potassium salts of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate. Using hydrogen phosphate salt/dihydrogen phosphate salt mixtures, pH values in the range from 7.1 to around 8.2 can be adjusted.

For higher pH values, mixtures of sodium or potassium bicarbonate with sodium or potassium carbonate are suitable. Further coloring processes preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) for pH adjustment contains a buffer system selected from a mixture of sodium or potassium hydrogen carbonate with sodium or potassium carbonate. Suitable salts are the sodium salts and the potassium salts of hydrogen carbonate and carbonate. With hydrogen carbonate salt/carbonate salt mixtures, pH values in the range from about 9.0 to about 11.0 can be adjusted.

The expert can find out the appropriate amounts of buffer salts to set the desired pH value in the relevant manuals.

• - auf dem Shikimat-Biosyntheseweg erhältlich ist und
• - mindestens 2 Hydroxygruppen im Molekül aufweist und
• - eine Molmasse im Bereich von 170 bis 20.000 g/mol aufweist.

The method according to the invention for the non-oxidative coloring of keratin fibers includes, directly after the pretreatment of the keratin fibers with the at least one basic amino acid, rinsing out the amino acid and optional drying, the application of an aqueous coloring composition (F) which has a pH value in Range from 3.0 to 10.5, preferably in the range from 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferably in the range from 5.0 to 9.0, extremely preferably in the range from 7.1 to 8.0, in each case 20 ° C, on the keratin fibers, the coloring composition (F) containing at least one polyphenol, which

• - is available via the shikimate biosynthesis route and
• - has at least 2 hydroxy groups in the molecule and
• - Has a molar mass in the range from 170 to 20,000 g/mol.

An essential feature of the dyeing process according to the invention is the dyeing with a polyphenol natural dye, the natural dye containing at least one polyphenol which - according to the definition of polyphenols according to Quideau - is available via the shikimate biosynthesis route and furthermore has at least 2 hydroxyl groups in the molecule and whose molar mass is in the range from 170 to 20,000 g/mol, preferably 290 to 3000 g/mol. Polyphenols preferably used according to the invention have at least 12 hydroxyl groups and at least five phenyl groups.

Coloring processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol is selected from tannins and pseudotannins and mixtures thereof.

Tannins are phytochemical products of secondary metabolism, more specifically the shikimate biosynthetic pathway, in plants. They can be obtained from different parts of plants before comes from the wood, especially the trunk wood, as well as from bark, leaves, seeds, fruits, galls, pods, pods or roots.

Tannins preferably used according to the invention are selected from hydrolyzable tannins and condensed tannins.

The hydrolyzable tannins have the molecule gallic acid as their basic building block. Gallic acid (170.12 g/mol) itself is not referred to as tannin, but as pseudotannin.

The hydrolyzable tannins can be differentiated into gallotannins and ellagitannins. Gallotannin is also known as tannic acid.

The condensed tannins have flavan-3-ols as their basic building block. Flavan-3-ols (226.27 g/mol) themselves are not referred to as tannins, but rather as pseudotannins. Condensed tannins that are preferably used are, for example, proanthocyanidins, procyanidins, flavonoids, propelargonidins, prodelphinides, prosetinidines, proteracacinidins, proguibourtinidines and prorobinetidines. According to the invention, catechins are particularly preferred among the flavonoids. In addition to gallic acid, pseudotannins preferred according to the invention are flavan-3-ols and chlorogenic acid.

Coloring processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is obtained from at least one plant which is selected from Haematoxylum campechianum (bloodwood tree, logwood tree, campeche tree), Haematoxylum brasiletto L. (Brazilian bloodwood tree ), Camellia sinensis, Acacia spp., especially Acacia mollissima, Acacia negra and Acacia dealbata, Olea europaea (olive tree), Schinopsis lorentzii, Aspidosperma quebracho-blanco, Rubiaceae Coffea arabica L., Rheum spp., especially Rheum palmatum, Pinus spp. , Picea spp., Vitis vinifera, Lawsonia inermis (red henna), Quercus spp. (Oak), especially Quercus macrolepsis, Curcuma longa, Juglans spp., especially Juglans nigra and Juglans regia, the Tara tree (Tara spinosa, Cesalpinia spinosa, Caesalpinia tinctoria), chestnut (Castanea sativa), Gerber sumac (Rhus coriaria), the Wig tree (Rhus cotinus, Cotinus coggygria), and Maclura tinctoria (dyer mulberry) and mixtures thereof.

Further coloring processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is in the form of at least one ground plant part. Plant parts preferred according to the invention, which can preferably be used in ground form according to the invention, are leaves, fruit peels, seed shells, rhizome (rootstock) and roots.

Further coloring processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is in the form of at least one plant part extract. Parts of plants preferred according to the invention, from which extracts preferred according to the invention can be obtained, are the trunk wood, the heartwood, bark, leaves, seeds, fruits, galls, pods, pods and roots. Suitable extractants are water, in particular hot water with a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C, also C ₁ -C ₄ alkanols and C ₂ -C ₄ polyols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, ethylene glycol, 1,2- Propanediol, glycerin and 1,3-butylene glycol, as well as mixtures of these extractants, in particular mixtures of water and at least one C ₁ -C ₄ alkanol, mixtures of water and at least one C2-C4 polyol, particularly preferably water/ethanol mixtures.

Coloring processes that are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the heartwood of the Brazilian bloodwood tree (Haematoxylum campechianum, also referred to as logwood tree or campeche tree), the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C. The extract itself is preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partial distillation of the extractant after extraction, as a viscous liquid. Other extracts preferred according to the invention from the heartwood of Haematoxylum campechianum are used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

One of the primary color components of logwood is the neoflavonoid hematein. Hematein is produced by the fermentation of hematoxylin, which is extracted from the heartwood of Haematoxylum campechianum. Hematein (molecular mass 300.26 g/mol) has the following structural formula (I):

Further coloring processes that are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol is selected from hematein and hematoxylin.

Further coloring processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the heartwood of the Brazilian bloodwood tree (Haematoxylum brasiletto L.), the extract being extracted by extraction with water , preferably with water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C. The extract itself is preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partial distillation of the extractant after extraction, as a viscous liquid. Other extracts preferred according to the invention from the heartwood of Haematoxylum brasiletto L. are used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

Further coloring processes that are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of matcha, i.e. the powder from dried leaves of Camellia sinensis. According to the invention, extremely preferred dyeing processes are characterized in that the aqueous dyeing composition (F), based on its weight, contains matcha in an amount of 0.3 - 50% by weight, preferably 1 - 20% by weight, particularly preferably 3 - 15% by weight, extremely preferably 8-10% by weight.

Further coloring processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the bark of Acacia dealbata, the bark of Acacia negra or the bark of Acacia mollissima, whereby the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

Further coloring processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is in the form of an extract from the bark of Pinus spp. (Pine) is used, the extract being obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

Further coloring processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is in the form of an extract from the bark of Picea spp. (Spruce) is used, the extract being obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

Further coloring processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the leaves of the olive tree (Olea europea), the extract being extracted by extraction with water, preferably with Water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C was obtained. The extract itself is preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partial distillation of the extractant after extraction, as a viscous liquid. Other olive leaf extracts preferred according to the invention are used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

Further coloring processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the trunk wood of Schinopsis lorentzii (red quebracho), the extract being preferably extracted with water with water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C. The extract itself is preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partial distillation of the extractant after extraction, as a viscous liquid. Other extracts preferred according to the invention from the trunk wood of Schinopsis lorentzii are used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

Further coloring processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the trunk wood of Aspidosperma quebracho-blanco (white quebracho), the extract being extracted by extraction with water , preferably with water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C. The extract itself is preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partial distillation of the extractant after extraction, as a viscous liquid. Other extracts preferred according to the invention from the trunk wood of Aspidosperma quebracho-blanco are used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

Further coloring processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the seeds of Rubiaceae Coffea arabica L. (coffee plant), the extract being extracted with a Water/ethanol mixture was obtained. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract. Other extracts preferred according to the invention from the seeds of Rubiaceae Coffea arabica L. are preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partial distillation of the extractant after the extraction, as a viscous liquid.

Further coloring processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, in the form of an extract from the rootstocks (rhizome) of Rheum spp., in particular of Rheum palmatum, more preferably Rheum palmatum var. Tanguticum, the extract being obtained by extraction with water or with a water/ethanol mixture.

Further coloring processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the seeds of Vitis vinifera (grapes), the extract being extracted by extraction with water or with a Water/ethanol mixture was obtained.

Further coloring processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of red henna powder, i.e. the powder from dried leaves of Lawsonia inermis.

Further coloring processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is in the form of an extract from the fruits and/or the fruit cups of Quercus spp. is used, the extract being obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract. Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of Valonea, the extract from the fruit cups and/or fruits of Quercus macrolepsis.

Further coloring processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the rhizome of Curcuma longa, the extract preferably being extracted with water or with a water/ethanol mixture was obtained.

Further coloring processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the ground fruit peels of Juglans spp, in particular Juglans nigra and Juglans regia, the extract was preferably obtained by extraction with water or with a water/ethanol mixture.

Further coloring processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the fruit pods of the tara tree (Cesalpinia spinosa), the extract being extracted by extraction with water, was preferably obtained with water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

Further coloring processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from chestnut wood (Castanea sativa), the extract being extracted by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature from 45 - 100 °C was obtained. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

Further dyeing processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the leaves of tanner sumac (Rhus coriaria), the extract being extracted by extraction with water, preferably with Water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C was obtained. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

Further dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the leaves of the wig tree (Rhus cotinus, Cotinus coggygria), the extract being extracted with water , preferably with water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

Further dyeing processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the heartwood of the dyer's mulberry tree (Maclura tinctoria, also Chlorophora tinctoria or Morus tinctoria), the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C. The extract itself is preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partial distillation of the extractant after extraction, as a viscous liquid. Other extracts preferred according to the invention from the heartwood of the dyer's mulberry tree are used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

Dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous dyeing composition (F), based on its weight, contains at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, in a total amount of 0.1 - 20% by weight, preferably 0 .2 - 15% by weight, particularly preferably 1 - 10% by weight, extremely preferably 2 - 6% by weight.

The plant parts and plant part extracts used in dyeing processes preferred according to the invention, which contain the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, usually have, based on their weight, a total polyphenol content of 10 - 100% by weight, preferably 15 - 95% by weight, particularly preferably 20 - 80% by weight, extremely preferably 30 - 70% by weight.

Dyeing processes that are extremely preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the aqueous dyeing composition (F), based on its weight, contains at least one plant part or plant part extract which contains at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, in a total amount of 0.5 - 50% by weight, preferably 1 - 30% by weight, particularly preferably 2 - 20% by weight, extremely preferably 5 - 15% by weight.

The dyeing processes according to the invention are further characterized in that no hydrogen peroxide and no ions and compounds of metals other than alkali metals and alkaline earth metals are used in them.

The content of metal ions other than alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, which are contained in trace amounts in the water used, is not taken into account.

Suitable according to the invention are the salts of alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, in particular the salts of sodium, potassium and magnesium, preferably the salts of sodium and potassium.

According to the invention, the salts and compounds of aluminum, the transition metals and the lanthanides are particularly undesirable. The metals mentioned in their elemental form are also not used in the dyeing processes according to the invention.

In a preferred embodiment of the dyeing process according to the invention, the desired pH value of the aqueous pretreatment composition (PT) is determined using a buffer system, selected from a mixture of a medium or weak acid with its conjugate or corresponding base (or the respective salt) and a Mixture of a medium-strong or weak base with its conjugate or corresponding acid.

• - Mischungen aus Hydrogenphosphat und Dihydrogenphosphat, insbesondere den Alkalimetallsalzen von Hydrogenphosphat und Dihydrogenphosphat, besonders bevorzugt den Natriumsalzen oder/und den Kaliumsalzen von Hydrogenphosphat und Dihydrogenphosphat,
• - Mischungen aus Alkalimetallhydrogencarbonat mit Alkalimetallcarbonat, insbesondere Mischungen aus Natrium- oder Kaliumhydrogencarbonat mit Natrium- oder Kaliumcarbonat,
• - Mischungen aus Citronensäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere den Alkalimetallcitraten, insbesondere den Natriumsalzen, insbesondere Trinatriumcitrat,
• - Mischungen aus Weinsäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere den Alkalimetalltartraten, insbesondere den Kaliumsalzen, insbesondere Kaliumhydrogentartrat,
• - Mischungen aus Phthalsäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere den Kaliumsalzen, insbesondere Kaliumhydrogenphthalat,
• - Mischungen aus Milchsäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere Milchsäure/Natriumlactat-Mischungen,
• - Mischungen aus Gluconsäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere Gluconsäure/Natriumgluconat-Mischungen,
• - Mischungen aus Bernsteinsäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere den Natriumsalzen, insbesondere Natriumhydrogensuccinat und Dinatriumsuccinat,
• - Mischungen aus Äpfelsäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere den Natriumsalzen, insbesondere Natriumhydrogenmalat und Dinatriummalat, sowie
• - Ammoniak/Ammoniumsalz-Mischungen, wobei das Ammoniumsalz bevorzugt ausgewählt ist aus Ammoniumchlorid, Ammoniumbromid, Ammoniumhydrogensulfat, Ammoniumsulfat, Ammoniumdihydrogenphosphat, Diammoniumhydrogenphosphat, Ammoniumphosphat, Ammoniumbicarbonat, Ammoniumcarbonat, Ammoniumnitrat, Ammoniumacetat, Ammoniumglycolat, Ammoniumgluconat, Ammoniumtartrat. Ammoniumlactat, sowie Mischungen dieser Ammoniumsalze, besonders bevorzugt ausgewählt aus Ammoniumchlorid, Ammoniumhydrogensulfat, Ammoniumsulfat, Ammoniumdihydrogenphosphat, Diammoniumhydrogenphosphat, Ammoniumphosphat, Ammoniumbicarbonat und Ammoniumcarbonat, außerordentlich bevorzugt ausgewählt aus Ammoniumchlorid.

Corresponding acid-base pairs which are preferably suitable according to the invention are those which have the aqueous pretreatment composition (PT) used according to the invention in the pH range from 7.1 to 13, preferably in the range from 7.6 to 11.0, particularly preferably 8. Stabilize 0 to 10.0, extremely preferably 8.0 to 9.0, each measured at 20 ° C. Buffer systems that are particularly preferred according to the invention for the aqueous pretreatment composition (PT) used according to the invention are selected from

• - Mixtures of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate, in particular the alkali metal salts of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate, particularly preferably the sodium salts and/or the potassium salts of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate,
• - mixtures of alkali metal bicarbonate with alkali metal carbonate, in particular mixtures of sodium or potassium bicarbonate with sodium or potassium carbonate,
• - Mixtures of citric acid and its salts, in particular the alkali metal citrates, in particular the sodium salts, in particular trisodium citrate,
• - mixtures of tartaric acid and its salts, in particular the alkali metal tartrates, in particular the potassium salts, in particular potassium hydrogen tartrate,
• - Mixtures of phthalic acid and its salts, in particular the potassium salts, in particular potassium hydrogen phthalate,
• - Mixtures of lactic acid and its salts, especially lactic acid/sodium lactate mixtures,
• - mixtures of gluconic acid and its salts, in particular gluconic acid/sodium gluconate mixtures,
• - mixtures of succinic acid and its salts, in particular the sodium salts, in particular sodium hydrogen succinate and disodium succinate,
• - Mixtures of malic acid and its salts, in particular the sodium salts, in particular sodium hydrogen malate and disodium malate, as well
• - Ammonia/ammonium salt mixtures, the ammonium salt being preferably selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium bromide, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium acetate, ammonium glycolate, ammonium gluconate, ammonium tartrate. Ammonium lactate, as well as mixtures of these ammonium salts, particularly preferably selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate and ammonium carbonate, extremely preferably selected from ammonium chloride.

Other buffer systems, for example acetic acid/sodium acetate, are in principle also suitable according to the invention. However, due to the smell of vinegar, such a buffer is not acceptable for the production of a cosmetic market product.

In a further preferred embodiment of the dyeing process according to the invention, the desired pH value of the aqueous dyeing composition (F) is determined with the aid of a buffer system, selected from a mixture of a medium-strong or weak acid with its conjugate or corresponding base (or the respective salt) and a mixture of a medium or weak base with its conjugate or corresponding acid.

• - Mischungen aus Hydrogenphosphat und Dihydrogenphosphat, insbesondere den Alkalimetallsalzen von Hydrogenphosphat und Dihydrogenphosphat, besonders bevorzugt den Natriumsalzen oder/und den Kaliumsalzen von Hydrogenphosphat und Dihydrogenphosphat,
• - Mischungen aus Alkalimetallhydrogencarbonat mit Alkalimetallcarbonat, insbesondere Mischungen aus Natrium- oder Kaliumhydrogencarbonat mit Natrium- oder Kaliumcarbonat,
• - Mischungen aus Citronensäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere den Alkalimetallcitraten, insbesondere den Natriumsalzen, insbesondere Trinatriumcitrat,
• - Mischungen aus Weinsäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere den Alkalimetalltartraten, insbesondere den Kaliumsalzen, insbesondere Kaliumhydrogentartrat,
• - Mischungen aus Phthalsäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere den Kaliumsalzen, insbesondere Kaliumhydrogenphthalat,
• - Mischungen aus Milchsäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere Milchsäure/Natriumlactat-Mischungen,
• - Mischungen aus Gluconsäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere Gluconsäure/Natriumgluconat-Mischungen,
• - Mischungen aus Bernsteinsäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere den Natriumsalzen, insbesondere Natriumhydrogensuccinat und Dinatriumsuccinat,
• - Mischungen aus Äpfelsäure und ihren Salzen, insbesondere den Natriumsalzen, insbesondere Natriumhydrogenmalat und Dinatriummalat, sowie
• - Ammoniak/Ammoniumsalz-Mischungen, wobei das Ammoniumsalz bevorzugt ausgewählt ist aus Ammoniumchlorid, Ammoniumbromid, Ammoniumhydrogensulfat, Ammoniumsulfat, Ammoniumdihydrogenphosphat, Diammoniumhydrogenphosphat, Ammoniumphosphat, Ammoniumbicarbonat, Ammoniumcarbonat, Ammoniumnitrat, Ammoniumacetat, Ammoniumglycolat, Ammoniumgluconat, Ammoniumtartrat. Ammoniumlactat, sowie Mischungen dieser Ammoniumsalze, besonders bevorzugt ausgewählt aus Ammoniumchlorid, Ammoniumhydrogensulfat, Ammoniumsulfat, Ammoniumdihydrogenphosphat, Diammoniumhydrogenphosphat, Ammoniumphosphat, Ammoniumbicarbonat und Ammoniumcarbonat, außerordentlich bevorzugt ausgewählt aus Ammoniumchlorid.

Corresponding acid-base pairs which are preferably suitable according to the invention are those which have the aqueous coloring composition (F) used according to the invention in the pH range from 3.0 to 10.5, preferably in the range from 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferred stabilize in the range from 5.0 to 9.0, extremely preferably in the range from 7.1 to 8.0, each measured at 20 ° C. Buffer systems that are particularly preferred according to the invention for the aqueous pretreatment composition (PT) used according to the invention are selected from

• - Mixtures of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate, in particular the alkali metal salts of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate, particularly preferably the sodium salts and/or the potassium salts of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate,
• - mixtures of alkali metal bicarbonate with alkali metal carbonate, in particular mixtures of sodium or potassium bicarbonate with sodium or potassium carbonate,
• - Mixtures of citric acid and its salts, in particular the alkali metal citrates, in particular the sodium salts, in particular trisodium citrate,
• - mixtures of tartaric acid and its salts, in particular the alkali metal tartrates, in particular the potassium salts, in particular potassium hydrogen tartrate,
• - Mixtures of phthalic acid and its salts, in particular the potassium salts, in particular potassium hydrogen phthalate,
• - Mixtures of lactic acid and its salts, especially lactic acid/sodium lactate mixtures,
• - mixtures of gluconic acid and its salts, in particular gluconic acid/sodium gluconate mixtures,
• - mixtures of succinic acid and its salts, in particular the sodium salts, in particular sodium hydrogen succinate and disodium succinate,
• - Mixtures of malic acid and its salts, in particular the sodium salts, in particular sodium hydrogen malate and disodium malate, as well
• - Ammonia/ammonium salt mixtures, the ammonium salt being preferably selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium bromide, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium acetate, ammonium glycolate, ammonium gluconate, ammonium tartrate. Ammonium lactate, as well as mixtures of these ammonium salts, particularly preferably selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate and ammonium carbonate, extremely preferably selected from ammonium chloride.

In coloring compositions (F) preferably used according to the invention, the water content is 70 - 99% by weight, preferably 75 - 98% by weight, particularly preferably 80 - 97% by weight, extremely preferably 85 - 96% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the coloring composition (F).

A further feature of the dyeing process according to the invention is that the dyeing composition (F) is left there after application to the keratin fibers for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 20 to 35 minutes, extremely preferably 25 to 30 Allow to take effect for minutes.

After the exposure time for the coloring composition (F) has elapsed, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water to wash out the coloring composition (F).

Optionally, the keratin fibers can be dried after this rinsing step. Drying can be done with an absorbent cloth, such as a towel. The towel-dried hair can optionally be partially or completely dried with a hairdryer or another heat source. It is also possible to let the keratin fibers air dry.

A further feature of the dyeing process according to the invention is that immediately after rinsing out the composition (PT) and possibly directly after the optional drying step, an aqueous dyeing composition (F) is applied to the keratin fibers, which has a pH value in the range of 3. 0 to 10.5, preferably in the range from 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferably in the range from 5.0 to 9.0, extremely preferably in the range from 7.1 to 8.0, in each case at 20 ° C, has (process step e)).

The statement “immediately afterwards” means above all that no further composition is applied to the keratin fibers between the obligatory process steps c) and e). The statement “immediately afterwards” also means a period of 1 second to a maximum of 4 hours, preferably 1 minute to 1.5 hours.

• - auf dem Shikimat-Biosyntheseweg erhältlich sind und
• - mindestens 2 Hydroxygruppen im Molekül aufweisen und
• - eine Molmasse im Bereich von 170 bis 20.000 g/mol aufweisen.

The composition (PT) used according to the invention is free of polyphenols

• - are available via the shikimate biosynthesis route and
• - have at least 2 hydroxy groups in the molecule and
• - have a molar mass in the range from 170 to 20,000 g/mol.

Dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that no hydroxyindolines and dihydroxyindolines are used in them. Hydroxyindolines and dihydroxyindolines react with atmospheric oxygen to form melanin or melanin-like color pigments and thus color the hair.

Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that no oxidation dye precursors are used in them. Typical oxidation dye precursors are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol, 4-amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 2 -(2,5-Diaminophenyl)ethanol, 2-(1,2-Dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-Amino-3-methylphenyl). )-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3- diamino-propan-2-ol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophen-oxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-bis-( 4-aminophenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2 ,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo-[1,2-a]-pyrazol-1-one , 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxy-ethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-( 2-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis(2,4- diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenyl)propane, 2,6-bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methylbenzene , 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl }amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-morpholin-4-ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-amino-4 -(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenylamine, 1-amino-3-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3- hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline and 7- Hydroxyindoline.

The pretreatment compositions (PT) and coloring compositions (F) used according to the invention and preferably used according to the invention can optionally contain further additives in order to optimize the application properties of these compositions. Preferred additives are, in particular, thickeners which ensure that the coloring compositions (F) and compositions (PT) remain better on the hair during use.

Coloring compositions (F) and compositions (PT) which are particularly preferred according to the invention contain at least one or more hydrophilic thickeners, which are preferably selected from polysaccharides which can be chemically and/or physically modified. According to the invention, compounds from the group of polysaccharides are particularly preferred as hydrophilic thickeners, since the basic structures of the polysaccharides are of natural origin and biodegradable. Preferred hydro philic polysaccharide thickeners are selected from celluloses, cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols, cellulose esters, xanthan gum, alginic acids (as well as their corresponding physiologically tolerated salts, the alginates), agar agar (with the polysaccharide agarose present in agar agar as the main component), Starch fractions and starch derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, karaya gum, locust bean gum, gum arabic, pectins, dextrans and guar gum as well as mixtures thereof. Cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols and cellulose esters preferred according to the invention are selected from methylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses (such as hydroxyethylcellulose), methylhydroxyalkylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses (such as those with the INCI name cellulose gum) and their physiologically tolerated salts.

In preferred embodiments, xanthan gum is included as a hydrophilic thickener for reliable viscosity adjustment and residue-free application on keratin fibers and the scalp. In further preferred embodiments, with a view to reliable viscosity adjustment and residue-free application on keratin fibers and the scalp, carboxymethylcellulose (preferably carboxymethylcellulose with the INCI name Cellulose Gum) is included as a hydrophilic thickener. In a preferred embodiment, carboxymethyl cellulose can be included as the only hydrophilic thickener. A combination of carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose is particularly preferred.

A combination of carboxymethyl cellulose and xanthan gum (preferably xanthan gum with the INCI name xanthan gum) may also be preferred according to the invention.

Dyeing compositions (F) and compositions (PT) which are particularly preferred according to the invention independently of one another contain at least one hydrophilic thickener in a total amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 3.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.2 to 2% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the respective dyeing composition (F) or composition (PT).

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the coloring compositions (F) and compositions (PT) used according to the invention contain, based on their weight, independently of one another 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight. -%, more preferably 1.2 to 2.0% by weight, xanthan gum.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the coloring compositions (F) and compositions (PT) used according to the invention contain, based on their weight, independently of one another 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably 1 to 2.8% by weight. , carboxymethylcellulose.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the coloring compositions (F) and compositions (PT) used according to the invention contain, based on their weight, independently of one another 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight. -%, more preferably 1.2 to 2.0% by weight, hydroxyethyl cellulose.

Dyeing compositions (F) and compositions (PT) which are particularly preferred according to the invention independently of one another contain at least one organic solvent which has a phenyl group in the molecule. This solvent is preferably selected from phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. It was surprisingly found that such aromatic solvents can have a positive effect on the dyeing results of the dyeing process according to the invention; this was observed in particular when the coloring composition (F) contains such an aromatic solvent.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the coloring compositions (F) and compositions (PT) used according to the invention contain, based on their weight, independently of one another 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight. -%, more preferably 0.8 to 1.0% by weight, of at least one organic solvent that has a phenyl group in the molecule. In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the coloring compositions (F) and compositions (PT) used according to the invention contain, based on their weight, independently of one another 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight. -%, more preferably 0.8 to 1.0% by weight, of at least one organic solvent selected from phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Coloring processes that are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that at least one of the coloring composition (F) or composition (PT) independently contains, in particular selected, at least one aliphatic solvent selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkanols and C ₂ -C ₄ polyols from ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and 1,3-butylene glycol, as well as mixtures of these solvents, but only in a total amount of 0.01 - 8% by weight, preferably 0.1 - 6% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-4% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the coloring composition (F) or the composition (PT).

Other dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that neither the dyeing composition (F) nor the composition (PT) contain an aliphatic solvent selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkanols and C ₂ -C ₄ polyols.

In order to make the coloring compositions (F) and (PT) used according to the invention sensorially attractive to the user, further coloring processes that are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that at least one of the coloring compositions (F) or compositions (PT) independently contains at least one perfume oil, which contains at least one fragrance compound or fragrance compound.

The definition of a fragrance in the sense of the present application corresponds to the usual professional definition, as can be found in the RÖMPP Chemie Lexikon, as of December 2007. According to this, a fragrance is a chemical compound with smell and/or taste that excites the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system (appropriate stimulus). The physical and chemical properties required for this are a low molecular weight of a maximum of 300 g/mol, a high vapor pressure, minimal water and high lipid solubility as well as weak polarity and the presence of at least one osmophoric group in the molecule. In order to differentiate volatile, low-molecular substances that are not usually viewed and used as fragrances but primarily as solvents, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and acetone, from fragrances according to the invention, fragrances according to the invention have a molecular weight of 74 up to 300 g/mol, contain at least one osmophoric group in the molecule and have an odor and/or taste, that is, they excite the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system. Examples of fragrance and fragrance compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate (DMBCA), phenyl ethyl acetate, benzyl acetate, ethyl methyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate, benzyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, floramate , melusate and jasmecyclate. Examples of fragrance and fragrance compounds of the ether type are benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxan, examples of fragrance and fragrance compounds of the aldehyde type are the linear alkanals with 8 - 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxy-acetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, lilial and bourgeonal , Examples of fragrance and fragrance compounds of the ketone type are the ionones, alpha-isomethyl ionone and methyl cedrylketone, examples of fragrance and fragrance compounds of the alcohol type are anethole, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, examples of fragrance and terpene-type fragrance compounds are limonene and pinene. Examples of fragrance and fragrance compounds are pine, citrus, jasmine, patchouly, rose, ylang-ylang oil, clary sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, Labdanum oil, orange blossom oil, neroli oil, orange peel oil and sandalwood oil, as well as essential oils such as angelica root oil, anise oil, arnica blossom oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, champaca blossom oil, noble fir oil, fine fir cone oil, elemi oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce needle oil, geranium oil, ginger grass oil, guaiac wood oil, gurjun balsam oil, helichrysum oil , Ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, kajeput oil, calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanaga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine needle oil, copaiva balsam oil, coriander oil, spearmint oil, caraway oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, lemon balm oil, musk seed oil, myrrh oil, clove oil , Niaouli oil, orange oil, origanum oil, palmarosa oil, patchouli oil, Peru balsam oil, petitgrain oil, pepper oil, peppermint oil, allspice oil, pine oil, rose oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, celery oil, spiky oil, star anise oil, turpentine oil, thuja oil, thyme oil, verbena oil, juniper berry oil, wormwood oil, wintergreen oil , hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil, lemon oil and cypress oil. Further fragrance and fragrance and smell compounds are ambrettolide, α-amylzimtaldehyde, anethol, anisaldehyde, anisal alcohol, anisol, anisol, anisol ester, acetophenon, benzyl acetone, benzaldehyde, benzalic acid ethyl ester, benzophenon, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzylbenzoat Iat, benzylvalerianate, borneol, bornyl acetate, α-bromenty, n-decylaldehyde, n-dodecylaldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin, heptinecarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, hydroquinone dimethyl ether, hydroxycinnamic aldehyde, hydroxycinnamic alcohol, indole, iron, isoeugenol, isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole ,Jasmon, Camphor, Karvakrol, Karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, coumarin, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilic acid methyl ester, p-methylacetophenone, methyl chavicol, p-methylquinoline, methyl-β-naph thyl ketone, methyl n-nonylacetaldehyde, methyl n-nonyl ketone, muskone, β-naphthol ethyl ether, β-naphthol methyl ether, nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonyl aldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octyl aldehyde, p-oxy-acetophenone, pentadecanolide, β-phenylethyl alcohol, Phenylacetaldehyde dimethyacetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, salicylic acid isoamyl ester, salicylic acid methyl ester, salicylic acid hexyl ester, salicylic acid cyclohexyl ester, santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymene, thymol, γ-undecatactone, vanillin, veratrumaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamic alcohol, cinnamic acid, cinnamic acid ethyl ester and cinnamic acid benzyl ester.

Other (more volatile) fragrances include alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral and citronellal.

Mixtures of different fragrances are preferably used, which together produce an appealing scent.

Suitable perfume oils can also contain natural fragrance mixtures such as those available from plant or animal sources, for example pine, citrus, jasmine, rose, lily or ylang-ylang oil. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, laudanum oil, clove oil, iso-eugenol, thyme oil, bergamot oil , geranium oil and rose oil. Compositions (PT) and coloring compositions (F) which are extremely preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that they independently contain at least one fragrance in a total amount of 0.01 - 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 - 3% by weight, especially preferably 0.5 - 2% by weight, extremely preferably 1 - 1.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition (PT) or the coloring composition (F).

1. a) eine wässrige Zusammensetzung (PT), die mindestens eine basische Aminosäure, ausgewählt aus Arginin, Lysin, Histidin oder Ornithin, enthält und einen pH-Wert im Bereich von 7,1 bis 13, bevorzugt im Bereich von 7,6 bis 11,0, besonders bevorzugt 8,0 bis 10,0, außerordentlich bevorzugt 8,0 bis 9,0 jeweils gemessen bei 20°C, aufweist, und
2. b) eine wässrige Färbezusammensetzung (F), die einen pH-Wert im Bereich von 3,0 bis 10,5, bevorzugt im Bereich von 4,0 bis 9,5, besonders bevorzugt im Bereich von 5,0 bis 9,0, außerordentlich bevorzugt im Bereich von 7,1 bis 8,0, jeweils bei 20°C, aufweist, wobei die Färbezusammensetzung (F) mindestens ein Polyphenol enthält, das
   • - auf dem Shikimat-Biosyntheseweg erhältlich ist und
   • - mindestens 2 Hydroxygruppen im Molekül aufweist und
   • - eine Molmasse im Bereich von 170 bis 20.000 g/mol aufweist;

wobei keine der Komponenten des Kits Wasserstoffperoxid oder Ionen und Verbindungen von Metallen, die von Alkalimetallen und Erdalkalimetallen verschieden sind, enthält.A further subject of the present invention is a kit for the non-oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, with natural dyes

1. a) an aqueous composition (PT) which contains at least one basic amino acid selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or ornithine and a pH in the range from 7.1 to 13, preferably in the range from 7.6 to 11, 0, particularly preferably 8.0 to 10.0, extremely preferably 8.0 to 9.0, each measured at 20 ° C, and
2. b) an aqueous dyeing composition (F) which has a pH in the range from 3.0 to 10.5, preferably in the range from 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferably in the range from 5.0 to 9.0, extremely preferably in the range from 7.1 to 8.0, in each case at 20 ° C, the coloring composition (F) containing at least one polyphenol, which
   • - is available via the shikimate biosynthesis route and
   • - has at least 2 hydroxy groups in the molecule and
   • - has a molar mass in the range from 170 to 20,000 g/mol;

wherein none of the components of the kit contain hydrogen peroxide or ions and compounds of metals other than alkali metals and alkaline earth metals.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the kits according to the invention, what has been said about the methods according to the invention and what has been said about the compositions (PT) and coloring compositions (F) used according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Examples of embodiments

The exemplary embodiments presented below are intended to explain the subject matter of the invention in more detail without limiting it thereto.

Attempts to improve the color intensity of the coloring achieved

Production of hair strands colored according to the invention

As an example of the dyeing process according to the invention, the following pretreatment composition (PT) and the following dyeing composition (F) were prepared: Table 1: Pretreatment compositions (PT) used according to the invention PT1 PT2 PT3 L-arginine 0.436g 1.742g 17.42g 0.2 M solution of Na ₂ HPO ₄ · 2 H ₂ O 47.35ml 47.35ml 47.35ml 0.2 M solution of NaH ₂ PO ₄ · H ₂ O 2.65ml 2.65ml 2.65ml Water, demineralized @ 100.0ml @ 100.0ml @ 100.0ml pH value (20°C) 8.0 8.0 8.0 Concentration of L-arginine 0.025M 0.1M 1 m

• * Als Farbholz-Extrakt wurde eingesetzt:
• * „Otto Dille“ Blauholz-Extrakt (Haematoxylum campechianum); pulverförmiger Heißwasser-Extrakt aus dem Kernholz von Haematoxylum campechianum, pH-Wert der 10 Gew.-%igen Lösung in Wasser: 5,5 ± 1,0 Bezugsquelle: Baeck GmbH & Co. KG, DE-22844 Norderstedt

Since L-arginine is a strongly basic amino acid, it was dissolved in a sodium phosphate buffer (pH 8.0) to avoid an increase in pH with higher arginine concentration. This prevented pH-dependent increased swelling of the hair fiber under alkaline conditions. The observed effects of color intensification are therefore solely due to the arginine concentration. Table 2: Coloring composition (F) used according to the invention Colored wood extract * 2.00 grams Na ₂ HPO ₄ · 2 H ₂ O 1.21 grams NaH ₂ PO ₄ · H ₂ O 0.07 grams Water, demineralized @ 100.0ml pH value (20°C) 8.0

• * The following was used as colored wood extract:
• * “Otto Dille” logwood extract (Haematoxylum campechianum); powdered hot water extract from the heartwood of Haematoxylum campechianum, pH value of the 10% by weight solution in water: 5.5 ± 1.0 Source of supply: Baeck GmbH & Co. KG, DE-22844 Norderstedt

All coloring was carried out on strands of completely unpigmented Caucasian hair from the company Kerling International Haarfabrik GmbH (Backnang, Germany). The strands were 10 cm long, of which 8 cm were available for coloring. The remaining 2 cm at the top of the strands are used for fastening. Each strand weighed 0.62 ± 0.05 grams.

The hair strands were treated (125 ml / g strand) for 15 minutes in one of the pretreatment compositions used according to the invention (PT1), (PT2) or (PT3) and then rinsed under running deionized water for 30 seconds while combing 20 times. The hair strands were then dried using a commercially available hairdryer at a defined distance (d = 10 cm) and a defined temperature (T = 80 ± 5 °C) while combing 20 times.

Immediately after the completion of the drying process, the hair strands were treated in the dyeing composition (F) used according to the invention (100 ml / g strand) for 30 minutes and then rinsed under running deionized water for one minute while combing 20 times.

The hair strands were then dried using a commercially available hairdryer at a defined distance (d = 10 cm) and a defined temperature (T = 80 ± 5 °C) while combing 20 times.

For comparison, further strands of hair were dyed dry and without prior treatment with arginine with the coloring composition (F) used according to the invention in the manner specified above.

Determination of the improvement in the intensity of the colorings caused by arginine pretreatment by spectrophotometric measurements

All colorimetric measurements were carried out using the Spectraflash SF 600 colorimetry device from Datacolor.

A D65 bulb and a diffuse/8° optical configuration were used for the spectrophotometer measurements. The spectral reflectance data for each sample from 380 nm to 700 nm was converted into colorimetric data using DCI Color software. Reflectance measurements were determined for each hair sample, with the average of 4 measurements recorded.

mit
Lv, av, bv: Farbmetrikwerte ohne Arginin-Vorbehandlung
Ln, an, bn: Farbmetrikwerte mit Arginin-Vorbehandlung Tabelle 3: L*-, a*-, b*-, ΔE-Werte der Blauholzfärbungen (2 Gew.-%, 30 Minuten) mit L-Arginin-Vorbehandlungen verschiedener Konzentrationen Arginin-Vorbehandlung, Färbung bei pH 8 L* ± SD a* ± SD b* ± SD ΔE±SD ohne Vorbehandlung 45,37±0,74 8,65±0,32 5,05±0,75 0,025 M L-Arginin 44,93±0,64 11,26±0,39 4,64±0,12 2,73±0,44 0,1 M L-Arginin 43,17±0,52 11,92±0,53 4,13±0,57 4,08±0,72 1,0 M L-Arginin 41,28±1,34 13,33±0,31 2,13±0,13 6,92±0,97 The color difference (ΔE) between dyed strand without arginine pretreatment and dyed strand pretreated with arginine was calculated according to the following formula: $$\Delta E=\sqrt{{\left(Lv-Ln\right)}^2+{\left(av-an\right)}^2+{\left(bv-bn\right)}^2}$$

with
Lv, av, bv: colorimetric values without arginine pretreatment
Ln, an, bn: colorimetric values with arginine pretreatment Table 3: L*, a*, b*, ΔE values of the logwood dyes (2% by weight, 30 minutes) with L-arginine pretreatments of various concentrations Arginine pretreatment, staining at pH 8 L* ± SD a* ± SD b* ± SD ΔE±SD without pretreatment 45.37±0.74 8.65±0.32 5.05±0.75 0.025M L-Arginine 44.93±0.64 11.26±0.39 4.64±0.12 2.73±0.44 0.1 M L-Arginine 43.17±0.52 11.92±0.53 4.13±0.57 4.08±0.72 1.0 M L-Arginine 41.28±1.34 13.33±0.31 2.13±0.13 6.92±0.97

Mean values ± standard deviation (SD), coloring in sodium phosphate buffer at pH 8, ΔE values refer to the color values of the coloring without pretreatment, n = 4

Table 4: Statistical analysis of L* values after pretreatment with L-arginine Tukey HSD test Pretreatment with L-Argini in sodium phosphate buffer, pH 8 staining Arginine concentration [mol/L] 0 0.025 0.1 1.0 0 0.889 0.018 <0.001 0.025 0.889 0.061 <0.001 0.1 0.018 0.061 0.041 1.0 <0.001 <0.001 0.041

The reduction in the L* value indicates an intensification of the staining due to the pretreatment with L-arginine.

The increase in the color difference ΔE between the dyed, non-pretreated strand and the dyed, pretreated strand also indicates an intensification of the coloring due to the pretreatment with L-arginine.

Even pre-treatment in 0.1 molar L-arginine solution leads to a significantly darker and redder log color. The pretreatment in 1 M arginine solution leads to a more uniform, darker, more intense coloring compared to the coloring without pretreatment.

Further tests showed that pretreatment with an arginine solution only had effects on color intensification at a pH value of 7 or above.

• *Als Farbholz-Extrakt wurde eingesetzt:
• * „Otto Dille“ Blauholz-Extrakt (Haematoxylum campechianum); pulverförmiger Heißwasser-Extrakt aus dem Kernholz von Haematoxylum campechianum, pH-Wert der 10 Gew.-%igen Lösung in Wasser: 5,5 ± 1,0 Bezugsquelle: Baeck GmbH & Co. KG, DE-22844 Norderstedt

Furthermore, it was examined what influence it has on the coloring if the arginine is not applied to the keratin fibers in a pretreatment step, but is contained directly in the coloring composition (F). Table 5: Comparison dyeing compositions (FV) not according to the invention F-V1 L-arginine 8.71g 0.2 M solution of Na ₂ HPO ₄ · 2 H ₂ O 47.35ml 0.2 M solution of NaH ₂ PÜ ₄ · H ₂ O 2.65ml Colored wood extract * 2.00g Water, demineralized @ 100.0ml pH value (20°C) 8.0 Concentration of L-arginine 0.5M

• *The following was used as colored wood extract:
• * “Otto Dille” logwood extract (Haematoxylum campechianum); powdered hot water extract from the heartwood of Haematoxylum campechianum, pH value of the 10% by weight solution in water: 5.5 ± 1.0 Source of supply: Baeck GmbH & Co. KG, DE-22844 Norderstedt

• Alle Ausfärbungen wurden auf Strähnen vom Typ vollständig unpigmentiertes kaukasisches Haar der Firma Kerling International Haarfabrik GmbH (Backnang, Deutschland) durchgeführt, wie vorstehend dargestellt.
• Die unbehandelten Haarsträhnen wurden 30 Minuten lang nicht erfindungsgemäß in der Vergleichs-Färbezusammensetzung F-V1 (100 ml / g Strähne) behandelt und dann eine Minute lang unter fließendem entionisiertem Wasser unter 20-maligem Kämmen gespült.
• Danach wurden die Haarsträhnen mit einem handelsüblichen Haartrockner in einem definierten Abstand (d = 10 cm) und einer definierten Temperatur (T = 80 ± 5 °C) unter 20-fachem Kämmen getrocknet. Die trockenen Strähnen wurden farbmetrisch, wie vorstehend dargestellt, vermessen.

Tabelle 6: L*-, a*-, b*-, ΔE-Werte der L-Arginin-haltigen Blauholzfärbungen (2 Gew.-%, 30 Min) mit L-Arginin in verschiedenen Konzentrationen L-Arginin-haltige Färbung bei pH 8 L* ± SD a* ± SD b* ± SD ΔE±SD ohne Arginin 45,37±0,74 8,65±0,32 5,05±0,75 0,5 M L-Arginin 52,38±0,39 3,61 ±0,07 -2,80±0,22 11,68±0,18 The coloring with the comparison coloring composition F-V1 not according to the invention was carried out as follows:

• All coloring was carried out on strands of completely unpigmented Caucasian hair from the company Kerling International Haarfabrik GmbH (Backnang, Germany), as shown above.
• The untreated hair strands were not treated according to the invention in the comparative coloring composition F-V1 (100 ml / g strand) for 30 minutes and then rinsed under running deionized water for one minute while combing 20 times.
• The hair strands were then dried using a commercially available hairdryer at a defined distance (d = 10 cm) and a defined temperature (T = 80 ± 5 °C) while combing 20 times. The dry strands were measured colorimetrically as shown above.

Table 6: L*, a*, b*, ΔE values of the L-arginine-containing logwood dyes (2% by weight, 30 min) with L-arginine in various concentrations L-arginine-containing coloring at pH 8 L* ± SD a* ± SD b* ± SD ΔE±SD without arginine 45.37±0.74 8.65±0.32 5.05±0.75 0.5M L-Arginine 52.38±0.39 3.61 ±0.07 -2.80±0.22 11.68±0.18

Mean values ± standard deviation (SD), staining in sodium phosphate buffer at pH 8, ΔE values refer to the color values of staining in arginine-free staining solution, n = 4

Coloring with simultaneous use of L-arginine and logwood extract at pH 8.0 has a significantly negative influence on the intensity of the coloring. The color is significantly lighter (see L* values, Table 6) and the characteristic increase in the red cast does not occur (see a* values, Table 6).

QUOTES INCLUDED IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of documents listed by the applicant was generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• EP 327345 A2 [0005]
• WO 2010094207 A1 [0005]
• WO 2017108551 A1 [0006]
• DE 22844 [0108, 0121]

Claims (15)

Process for the non-oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, with natural dyes, comprising the following process steps in the order given: a) Applying an aqueous composition (PT) which contains at least one basic amino acid selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or ornithine and a pH in the range from 7.1 to 13, preferably in the range from 7.6 to 11 .0, particularly preferably 8.0 to 10.0, extremely preferably 8.0 to 9.0, each measured at 20 ° C, on the keratin fibers, b) leave to act for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 15 to 30 minutes, c) rinsing the keratin fibers with water, d) optionally drying the keratin fibers, e) immediately afterwards applying an aqueous coloring composition (F) which has a pH in the range from 3.0 to 10.5, preferably in the range from 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferably in the range from 5.0 to 9 .0, extremely preferably in the range from 7.1 to 8.0, in each case at 20 ° C, on the keratin fibers, the coloring composition (F) containing at least one polyphenol, which - is available via the shikimate biosynthesis route and - has at least 2 hydroxy groups in the molecule and - has a molar mass in the range from 170 to 20,000 g/mol; furthermore f) leaving it to take effect for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 20 to 35 minutes, extremely preferably 25 to 30 minutes, g) rinsing the keratin fibers with water, h) optionally drying the keratin fibers, whereby no hydrogen peroxide and no ions and compounds of metals other than alkali metals and alkaline earth metals are used in the process. dyeing process Claim 1 , characterized in that the at least one polyphenol is selected from tannins and pseudotannins and mixtures thereof. Dyeing process according to claim one of the Claims 1 or 2 , characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is obtained from at least one plant selected from Haematoxylum brasiletto L. (Brazilian bloodwood tree), Haematoxylum campechianum (bloodwood tree, logwood tree, campeche tree), Camellia sinensis, Acacia spp., especially Acacia mollissima, Acacia negra and Acacia dealbata, Olea europaea (olive tree), Schinopsis lorentzii, Aspidosperma quebracho-blanco, Rubiaceae Coffea arabica L., Rheum spp., especially Rheum palmatum, Pinus spp., Picea spp ., Vitis vinifera, Lawsonia inermis (red henna), Quercus spp. (Oak), especially Quercus macrolepsis, Curcuma longa, Juglans spp., especially Juglans nigra and Juglans regia, the Tara tree (Tara spinosa, Cesalpinia spinosa, Caesalpinia tinctoria), chestnut (Castanea sativa), Gerber sumac (Rhus coriaria), the Wig tree (Rhus cotinus, Cotinus coggygria) and Maclura tinctoria (dyer mulberry) and mixtures thereof. dyeing process Claim 3 , characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the heartwood of the Brazilian bloodwood tree (Haematoxylum campechianum, logwood tree, campeche tree). dyeing process Claim 4 , characterized in that the extract from the heartwood of the Brazilian bloodwood tree (Haematoxylum campechianum) was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45 - 100 ° C. Dyeing process according to one of the Claims 1 until 5 , characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains the at least one basic amino acid selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or ornithine, in a total amount of 0.1 - 17% by weight, preferably 0.3 - 10% by weight. %, particularly preferably 1.0 - 5.0% by weight, extremely preferably 1.7 - 3% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition (PT). Dyeing process according to one of the Claims 1 until 6 , characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT), based on its weight, contains water in an amount of 70 - 98% by weight, preferably 75 - 95% by weight, particularly preferably 80 - 92% by weight, extremely preferably 85 - 90% by weight. Dyeing process according to one of the Claims 1 until 7 , characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) for pH adjustment is a buffer system selected from a mixture of a medium-strong or weak acid with its conjugate or corresponding base (or the respective salt) and a mixture of a medium-strong or weak Base with its conjugate or corresponding acid, preferably containing a hydrogen phosphate / dihydrogen phosphate mixture as a buffer. Dyeing process according to one of the Claims 1 until 8th , characterized in that the aqueous dyeing composition (F) for pH adjustment is a buffer system selected from a mixture of a medium-strong or weak acid with its conjugate or corresponding base (or the respective salt) and a mixture of a medium-strong or weak Base with its conjugate or corresponding acid, preferably containing a hydrogen phosphate / dihydrogen phosphate mixture as a buffer. Dyeing process according to one of the Claims 1 until 9 , characterized in that the aqueous coloring composition (F) contains the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, in a total amount of 0.1 - 20% by weight, preferably 0.2 - 15% by weight, particularly preferably 1 - 10% by weight, extremely preferably 2 - 6% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the coloring composition (F). Dyeing process according to one of the Claims 1 until 10 , characterized in that the aqueous composition (F), based on its weight, contains at least one plant part or plant part extract which contains at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, in a total amount of 0.5 - 50 % by weight, preferably 1 - 30% by weight, particularly preferably 2 - 20% by weight, extremely preferably 5 - 15% by weight. Dyeing process according to one of the Claims 1 until 11 , characterized in that the aqueous dyeing composition (F), based on its weight, contains water in an amount of 70 - 99% by weight, preferably 75 - 98% by weight, particularly preferably 80 - 97% by weight, extremely preferably 85-96% by weight. Dyeing process according to one of the Claims 1 until 12 , characterized in that at least one of the composition (PT) or composition (F) independently contains at least one aliphatic solvent selected from C ₁ -C ₄ alkanols and C ₂ -C ₄ polyols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin and 1,3-butylene glycol, as well as mixtures of these solvents, in a total amount of 0.01 - 8% by weight, preferably 0.1 - 6% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 - 4% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition (PT) or the weight of the composition (F). Kit for the non-oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, especially human hair, with natural dyes, comprising a) an aqueous composition (PT) which contains at least one basic amino acid selected from arginine, lysine, histidine or ornithine and a pH in the range from 7.1 to 13, preferably in the range from 7.6 to 11, 0, particularly preferably 8.0 to 10.0, extremely preferably 8.0 to 9.0, each measured at 20 ° C, and b) an aqueous dyeing composition (F) which has a pH in the range from 3.0 to 10.5, preferably in the range from 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferably in the range from 5.0 to 9.0, extremely preferably in the range from 7.1 to 8.0, in each case at 20 ° C, the coloring composition (F) containing at least one polyphenol, which - is available via the shikimate biosynthesis route and - has at least 2 hydroxy groups in the molecule and - has a molar mass in the range from 170 to 20,000 g/mol; wherein none of the components of the kit contain hydrogen peroxide or ions and compounds of metals other than alkali metals and alkaline earth metals. Kit after Claim 14 , characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) and the aqueous composition (F) as in one of Claims 2 - 13 are designed.