DE102013212612A1 - Hair treatment agent useful for treating keratinous fibers, comprises flower nectar, an ester oil, and an aqueous- or aqueous-alcoholic carrier - Google Patents

Abstract

Hair treatment agent comprises (a) 0.001-5 wt.% flower nectar, (b) 0.01-95 wt.% at least one ester oil, and (c) an aqueous- or aqueous-alcoholic carrier. An independent claim is also included for treating keratinous fibers, comprising applying the above hair treatment agent on the keratinous fibers, and allowing the agent to remain on the hair until next hair wash.

Description

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing flower nectar. Flower nectar is taken by trained collectors directly from the cups of flowers. The nectar is not chemically but only post-treated and processed physically. It is therefore a very pure natural resource. As essential ingredients of the flower nectar contains sugar, especially glucose, fructose and sucrose, amino acids, vitamins and minerals. The hair treatment compositions of the present invention contain the flower nectar as part of an active ingredient complex with at least one ester oil.

There is a need to further improve hair care products and to give them further advantageous properties. In particular, a care complex should be provided which can ideally also be used in conjunction with oxidizing agents and surface-active agents.

Environmental influences and oxidative hair treatments often lead to impaired combability of dry and wet hair. Furthermore, the gloss and the moisture balance are adversely affected by the attacked outer structure of the keratinic fibers. Another consequence of repeated treatments of keratinic fibers with surface-active and / or oxidative agents is a strong re-greasing of the keratinic fibers and a strong tendency to increased scaling of the scalp. Conventional compositions containing fatty alcohols, thereby leading to a weighting of the hair and thus to problems in hairstyle design.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to reduce the side effects of environmental influences and oxidative and surfactant hair treatments already preferably during the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment but also after the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment, without the efficiency of the oxidative or surfactant cosmetic, in particular Color intensity, color fastness, whitening performance or corrugating effect, as well as to prevent the greasing of the keratinic fibers and the increased formation of scalp scales. In addition, in the form of a 2-in-1 product in one application step, the oxidative treatment keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair, with the application of an effective fiber protection against environmental influences, in particular a UV protection but possible without a synthetic UV filter, get connected. Another object of the present invention is to avoid fatty alcohols in the hair treatment compositions of the invention. The majority of consumers now want effective hair treatment products without syntethic dyes, preservatives and synthetic perfume oils. These ingredients do not contribute to the effect of the compositions and are usually added to the compositions only for their own protection against spoilage, their aesthetic appearance and to give a pleasant odor. Despite this desire of consumers, the compositions should still have a pleasant odor, be sufficiently microbiologically stable and have an attractive appearance. It is therefore a further object of the present invention as possible to dispense with synthetic dyes, perfume oils and preservatives.

The term nectar is understood as the nectar, which is taken directly from the calyx by specially trained collectors. The flower nectar contains sugar, especially glucose, fructose and sucrose as well as amino acids, vitamins and minerals.

In cosmetic compositions, especially topical skin care applications are known. There are also hair care products are known which contain only biological ingredients. However, there are no indications of the active ingredient complex according to the invention and the solution of the object of the present invention.

In cosmetic compositions, especially topical skin care applications are known. There are also hair care products are known which contain only biological ingredients. However, there are no indications of the active ingredient complex according to the invention and the solution of the object of the present invention.

It has now surprisingly been found that the above-mentioned objects are achieved to a great extent by a hair treatment composition containing an active substance complex with flower nectar. Insofar as the active ingredient complex is mentioned below, this statement refers to the ingredients a) to c) which are mandatory in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention.

This active ingredient complex leads to the improvement of the finish, to improve the gloss, to improve the moisture balance and to protect the destructuring of keratin fibers, especially human hair, by UV radiation and especially to protect against oxidative damage, in particular to maintain hair growth, preventing hair loss and prevention of greasing of the keratinic fibers, and to increase the washing resistance of dyed keratinic fibers.

• a) 0,001 bis 5 Gew.-% Blütennektar und
• b) 0,01 bis 95,0 Gew.% mindestens eines Esteröles sowie
• c) einen wässrigen oder wässrig-alkoholischen Träger.

A first subject of the present invention is therefore a hair treatment composition containing - based on its weight -

• a) 0.001 to 5 wt .-% flower nectar and
• b) 0.01 to 95.0 wt.% Of at least one ester oil and
• c) an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the compositions of the invention are free of a fatty alcohol having 6-30 carbon atoms.

In a more preferred embodiment of the present invention, the compositions of the invention are free of synthetic UV filters.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the compositions according to the invention are free of synthetic dyes.

In a most preferred embodiment of the present invention, the compositions of the invention are free of synthetic preservatives.

In a most preferred embodiment of the present invention, the compositions of the invention are free of synthetic perfume oils.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agents are used to treat keratinous fibers, in particular human hair. Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore, for example, shampoos, hair dyes, conditioners or hair tonics.

By "synthetic" it is meant that the subject ingredients are industrially produced by discrete chemical starting chemical synthesis methods. Non-"synthetic" means ingredients which are obtainable by pressing or extraction methods. Furthermore, the term "synthetic" does not include when an ingredient is produced by enzymatic reactions, such as fermentation.

The grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective.

Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.

By maintaining the natural growth of keratinous fibers, it is understood that the effects on natural hair growth are compensated by hair cosmetic treatments as outlined above, in particular by oxidative hair treatments, and no or at least slight effects on the natural growth of the keratinic fibers in terms of thickness growth, the growth in length and / or in relation to the hair fullness are present.

In the context of an oxidative hair treatment, the action of an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent on hair in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention.

The hair treatment composition comprising the active substance complex according to the invention is preferably used immediately before, during or after the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment. As immediately before the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment is understood in the context of the invention, an application directly followed by the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment, wherein the active ingredient complex containing hair treatment agent previously rinsed from the hair or preferably left on the hair and the hair is preferred still wet.

For the purposes of the invention, an application which follows either directly on the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment is understood as meaning after the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment, wherein the hair treatment agent containing the active ingredient complex according to the invention after rinsing the oxidatively or surfactant acting on the preferably still wet, towel-dried hair is applied, or applied to dry or wet hair only after several hours or days. In both cases, the hair treatment composition according to the invention can be rinsed out again after a contact time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes or remain completely on the hair.

The effect of the hair treatment agent according to the invention unfolds even during the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment and surprisingly persists even after intensive washing out of the hair treatment composition according to the invention.

The active ingredient complex according to the invention is used in a cosmetic carrier. The cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic. An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-Pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol or 1,6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. A particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention contains essentially no aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier. Essentially, the invention means that the amount of an aqueous or aqueous alcoholic carrier less than 5.0 wt.%, Preferably less than 3.0 wt.%, More preferably less than 1.0 wt.%, Most preferably less than 0.5% by weight and most preferably less than 0.1% by weight.

As component a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention, flower nectar is used. The flower nectar is removed by specially trained collector directly from the flowers and never chemically treated. At most, a physical aftertreatment is preferably carried out. A particularly preferred flower nectar is the flower nectar under the name Combretum Farinosum Flower Nectar. A commercial product may be purchased from Croda under the trade name Floral Nectar. The hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain the flower nectar preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 3.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.01 to 2.5 parts by weight. %, in each case based on the weight of the ready-to-use hair treatment agent.

A second essential ingredient b) in the hair treatment compositions is at least one ester oil. Of course, it is also possible according to the invention to use several ester oils at the same time. It may be preferable to use at least two different ester oils. However, at least one ester oil must be a vegetable ester oil in this case. The ester oils are defined as follows:
Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

R1 steht hierbei für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten, cyclischen gesättigten cyclischen ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen,
AO steht für Ethylenoxid, Propylenoxid oder Butylenoxid,
X steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 200, vorzugsweise 1 und 100, besonders bevorzugt zwischen 1 und 50, ganz besonders bevorzugt zwischen 1 und 20, höchst bevorzugt zwischen 1 und 10 und am bevorzugtesten zwischen 1 und 5,
R2 steht für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten, cyclischen gesättigten cyclischen ungesättigten Alkyl-, Alkenyl-, Alkinyl-, Phenyl- oder Benzylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile als Rest R1 in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile als Rest R2 in den Esterölen sind Benzylalkohol, Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen. Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugtes Esteröl ist beispielsweise unter der INCI-Bezeichnung PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate erhältlich. Weiterhin sind unter erfindungsgemäßen Esterölen zu verstehen:

• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, sowie
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, das sind Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

Of course, the ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. The alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils. However, preference is given according to the invention if the fatty alcohol was first alkoxylated and then esterified with fatty acid. In the formula (D4-II), these compounds are generally shown.

R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide,
X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,
R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, elaeostearic, arachidic, gadoleic, , Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol moieties R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol , Arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. A particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate. Furthermore, ester oils according to the invention are to be understood as meaning:

• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, and the like
• - symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The ester oils are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Used.

• – pflanzliche Öle wie Amaranthsamenöl, Aprikosenkernöl, Arganöl, Avocadoöl, Babassuöl, Baumwollsaatöl, Borretschsamenöl, Camelinaöl, Distelöl, Erdnußöl, Granatapfelkernöl, Grapefruitsamenöl, Hanföl, Haselnussöl, Holundersamenöl, Johannesbeersamenöl, Jojobaöl, Kakaobutter, Leinöl, Macadamianussöl, Maiskeimöl, Mandelöl, Marulaöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Olivenöl, Orangenöl, Palmöl, Pfirsichkernöl, Rapsöl, Reisöl, Sanddornfruchtfleischöl, Sanddornkernöl, Sesamöl, Sheabutter, Sojaöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Traubenkernöl, Walnußöl, Weizenkeimöl, Wildrosenöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Bevorzugte kosmetische Öle sind pflanzliche Öle. Als natürliche Öle kommen beispielsweise Amaranthsamenöl, Aprikosenkernöl, Arganöl, Avocadoöl, Babassuöl, Baumwollsaatöl, Borretschsamenöl, Camelinaöl, Distelöl, Erdnußöl, Granatapfelkernöl, Grapefruitsamenöl, Hanföl, Haselnussöl, Holundersamenöl, Johannesbeersamenöl, Jojobaöl, Kakaobutter, Leinöl, Macadamianussöl, Maiskeimöl, Mandelöl, Marulaöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Olivenöl, Palmöl, Rapsöl, Reisöl, Sanddornfruchtfleischöl, Sanddornkernöl, Sesamöl, Sheabutter, Sojaöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Traubenkernöl, Walnußöl oder Wildrosenöl. Selbstverständlich umfasst die erfindungsgemäße Lehre auch, dass mindestens zwei pflanzliche Öle miteinander gemischt werden können. Bevorzugte Mischungen der pflanzlichen Öle sind Amaranthsamenöl mit mindestens einem Sanddornöl, Amaranthsamenöl mit Sheabutter, Amaranthsamenöl mit Camelinaöl, Amaranthsamenöl mit Olivenöl, Amaranthsamenöl mit Macadamianussöl, Olivenöl mit mindestens einem Sanddornöl, Olivenöl mit Camelinaöl, Olivenöl mit Sheabutter, Macadamianussöl und mindestens einem Sanddornöl, Macadamianussöl mit Sheabutter. Insbesondere in Zusammensetzungen in denen erfindungsgemäß keine synthetischen UV-Schutzfilter gewünscht werden, tragen die hier genannten pflanzlichen Öle gemeinsam mit anorganischen UV-Filtern dazu bei den Zusammensetzungen einen ausreichenden UV-Schutz zu verleihen. Außerdem können die pflanzlichen Öle durch ihren eigenen Duft dazu beitragen gewünschtenfalls in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen auf synthetische Duft- und Parfümölbestandteile zu verzichten.

Highly preferred ester oils according to the invention are:

• Vegetable oils such as amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, Evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, rosehip oil and the liquid components of coconut oil. Preferred cosmetic oils are vegetable oils. Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil , Evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil. Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that at least two vegetable oils can be mixed together. Preferred mixtures of vegetable oils are amaranth seed oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, amaranth seed oil with shea butter, amaranth seed oil with camelina oil, amaranth seed oil with olive oil, amaranth seed oil with macadamia nut oil, olive oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, olive oil with camelina oil, olive oil with shea butter, Macadamia nut oil and at least one sea buckthorn oil, macadamia nut oil with shea butter. In particular, in compositions in which no synthetic UV protection filters are desired according to the invention, the vegetable oils mentioned here, together with inorganic UV filters, contribute to impart sufficient UV protection to the compositions. In addition, the vegetable oils, by virtue of their own fragrance, may contribute, if desired, to the omission of synthetic fragrance and perfume oil ingredients in the compositions of the invention.

Most preferred is according to the invention, when the aforementioned vegetable oils were cold pressed.

• – tierische Öle, insbesondere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle, welche jedoch erfindungsgemäß weniger bevorzugt sind.

In summary, preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.15 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight, even more preferably 0, 5 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% of at least one vegetable oil from the group amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, Babassuöl, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil , Hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, curry seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil contain.

• Animal oils, in particular triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils, which, however, are less preferred according to the invention.

In general, the respective ester oils are used in the compositions according to the invention in the amounts stated for the respective ester oils. The total amount of all ester oils in the compositions according to the invention is from 0.01 to 95.0% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 85.0% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 65.0% by weight. % and most preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 60.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 1.0 to 50.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

• – 0,001 bis 5 Gew.-% Blütennektar und
• – 0,01 bis 95,0 Gew.% mindestens eines Esteröles,
• – einen wässrigen oder wässrig-alkoholischen Träger sowie
• – frei von einem Fettalkohol mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffartomen.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized as follows:

• - 0.001 to 5 wt .-% flower nectar and
• 0.01 to 95.0% by weight of at least one ester oil,
• An aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier as well
• - Free from a fatty alcohol with 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

• – 0,001 bis 5 Gew.-% Blütennektar und
• – 0,01 bis 95,0 Gew.% mindestens eines Esteröles,
• – einen wässrigen oder wässrig-alkoholischen Träger,
• – frei von einem Fettalkohol mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffartomen und
• – frei von einem synthetischen UV-Filter.

More preferred compositions according to the invention are furthermore characterized as follows:

• - 0.001 to 5 wt .-% flower nectar and
• 0.01 to 95.0% by weight of at least one ester oil,
• An aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier,
• Free from a fatty alcohol containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms and
• - free from a synthetic UV filter.

• – 0,001 bis 5 Gew.-% Blütennektar und
• – 0,01 bis 95,0 Gew.% mindestens eines Esteröles,
• – einen wässrigen oder wässrig-alkoholischen Träger,
• – frei von einem Fettalkohol mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffartomen,
• – frei von einem synthetischen UV-Filter und
• – frei von einem synthetischen Farbstoff.

Even more preferred compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to other customary ingredients, the following composition:

• - 0.001 to 5 wt .-% flower nectar and
• 0.01 to 95.0% by weight of at least one ester oil,
• An aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier,
• Free from a fatty alcohol containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
• - free from a synthetic UV filter and
• - free from a synthetic dye.

• – 0,001 bis 5 Gew.-% Blütennektar und
• – 0,01 bis 95,0 Gew.% mindestens eines Esteröles,
• – einen wässrigen oder wässrig-alkoholischen Träger,
• – frei von einem Fettalkohol mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffartomen,
• – frei von einem synthetischen UV-Filter,
• – frei von einem synthetischen Farbstoff und
• – frei von synthetischen Konservierungsmitteln.

Very particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to other customary ingredients, the following composition:

• - 0.001 to 5 wt .-% flower nectar and
• 0.01 to 95.0% by weight of at least one ester oil,
• An aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier,
• Free from a fatty alcohol containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
• - free from a synthetic UV filter,
• - free from a synthetic dye and
• - free from synthetic preservatives.

• – 0,001 bis 5 Gew.-% Blütennektar und
• – 0,01 bis 95,0 Gew.% mindestens eines Esteröles,
• – einen wässrigen oder wässrig-alkoholischen Träger,
• – frei von einem Fettalkohol mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffartomen,
• – frei von einem synthetischen UV-Filter,
• – frei von einem synthetischen Farbstoff,
• – frei von synthetischen Konservierungsmitteln und
• – frei von syntetischen Parfümölen.

Highly preferred compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to other customary ingredients, the following composition:

• - 0.001 to 5 wt .-% flower nectar and
• 0.01 to 95.0% by weight of at least one ester oil,
• An aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier,
• Free from a fatty alcohol containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
• - free from a synthetic UV filter,
• Free of a synthetic dye,
• - free from synthetic preservatives and
• - Free of synthetic perfume oils.

In the following, further preferred components of the compositions according to the invention are described, which are contained in the compositions in addition to the above-described mandatory ingredients.

A first particularly preferred ingredient of the compositions according to the invention is a silicone selected from the alkoxylated silicones and / or at least one dimethicone and / or at least one dimethiconol and / or at least one volatile silicone and / or an aminosilicone and / or a sugar-containing silicone.

The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Si1): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (Si ¹ )

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Si1.1):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer after the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970 , Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5000000 cPs, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps. As an example, reference is made to the product "Dow Corning 200 with 60000 cSt".

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si1.2) (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si 1.2), in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

The dimethicones (Si1) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5 wt.% Based on the total composition.

Finally, among the silicone compounds Dimethiconole (Si8) understood. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (Si 8 -I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer after the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970 , Preferred viscosities are between 1000 and 5000000 cPs, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Coming 1401 Fluid, Dow Coming 1403 Fluid Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all four aforementioned GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above).

The dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may be represented, for example, by the formula (Si-2) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} ) _x (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} ) _y M (Si-2)

Be described, taking in the above formula
R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms,
Q is a polar radical of the general formula R ¹ HZ,
wherein
R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and
Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group;
a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2,
b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,
a + b is less than or equal to 3, and
c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and
x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and
M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.

Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for said Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

In the formula (Si-2), α assumes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to third

Cationic silicone oils, such as the commercially available products Dow Corning (DC) 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-7113, SM-2059 (General Electric) and SLM-55067 (Wacker) are suitable according to the invention.

enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).

enthalten, worin
R für -OH, eine (gegebenenfalls ethoxylierte und/oder propoxylierte) (C₁ bis C₂₀)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht,
R1 für -OH, eine (C₁ bis C₂₀)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe und
m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt. Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)

contain, in which
R is -OH, an (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group,
R _{1 represents} -OH, a (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group and
m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant). Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general formula (Si3c) [R ¹ R ² R ³ N ⁺ -A-SiR ⁷ R ⁸ - (O-SiR ⁹ R ¹⁰ ) _n -O-SiR ¹¹ R ¹² -AN ⁺ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ ] 2X ^- (Si 3c) where the radicals R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are C 1 to C 22 -alkyl radicals which may contain hydroxyl groups and where preferably at least one of the radicals has at least 8 C atoms and the remaining radicals have 1 to 4 C atoms, the radicals R 7 to R 12 independently of one another are identical or different and denote C1-C10-alkyl or phenyl, A represents a divalent organic compound group, n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, particularly preferably from 10 to 40, and X ^- Anion is.

The divalent linking group is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene or alkoxyalkylene group which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Particularly preferred is the group - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -O-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -.

The anion X ^- can be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate or a compound of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , in which R has the meaning of C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radicals.

A preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d) [RN ⁺ Me ₂ -A- (SiMe ₂ O) _n -SiMe ₂ -AN ⁺ Me ₂ R] 2CH ₃ COO ^- (Si 3d), where A is the group - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -O-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -,
R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 120.

Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known under the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal trialkylammonium groups. Such diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes are marketed by Evonik under the trade names Abil ^® Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474th

Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 2 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) and / or diquaternary silicone included.

Further cationic silicone compounds having at least three terminal amino-functional groups can also be used according to the invention. These cationic silicone polymers are characterized in that they have a silicone backbone and optionally a polyether part and furthermore at least one part with an ammonium structure.

in welcher R1 steht für eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, Hydroxy-, Methoxy- oder Ethoxygruppe,
R2, steht für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten C8 bis C24 Alkyl- oder Alkylenrest, vorzugsweise einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten C9 bis C22 Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest, besonders bevorzugt einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten C11 bis C18 Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest, höchst bevorzugt einen entsprechenden Alkylrest,
n und m jeweils für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 1000 stehen und
q steht jeweils für eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 50, bevorzugt 4 bis 30, besonders bevorzugt 4 bis 18 und höchst bevorzugt von 4 bis 12. Examples of the preferred cationic silicone polymers for the purposes of the present invention are in particular the compounds with the INCI names: Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6 Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-11, Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium-18 , Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21, Silicone Quaternium-22 as well as Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate and Silicone Quaternium-16 / Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Most preferred is Silicone Quaternium-22. This raw material is for example from the company Evonik sold under the tradename ^Abil® T-Quat 60. Another preferred cationic aminosilicone corresponds to the following formula:

in which R 1 is a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyl, methoxy or ethoxy group,
R 2, is a straight-chain or branched C 8 to C 24 alkyl or alkylene radical, preferably a straight-chain or branched C 9 to C 22 alkyl or alkenyl radical, more preferably a straight-chain or branched C 11 to C 18 alkyl or alkenyl radical, most preferably a corresponding alkyl radical,
n and m are each integers from 1 to 1000 and
Each q is an integer from 2 to 50, preferably 4 to 30, more preferably 4 to 18 and most preferably from 4 to 12.

The molecular weight of such compounds is 15,000 to 2,000,000, as measured on a Brookfield RV rotary viscometer, spindle 5, at 20 ° C. Preferably, the molecular weight is 30,000 to 1,750,000, and more preferably 50,000 to 1,500,000. The nitrogen content of the silicones according to the invention is from 0.03 to 4.2% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.8% by weight and most preferably from 0.16 to 1.4% by weight. Amino-functional cationic silicones of the above formula according to the invention can be obtained, for example, from Clariant. A highly preferred product of the invention is commercially available under the INCI name Trideceth-9-Amodimethicone and Trideceth-12.

in der
A für eine über ein -O- gebundene Struktureinheit (I), (II) oder (III)

oder einen über ein -O- gebundenen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III) oder die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) oder für -OH steht,
* für eine Bindung zu einer der Struktureinheiten (I), (II) oder (III) oder für eine Endgruppe B (Si-gebunden) oder D (O-gebunden) steht,
B für eine Gruppe -OH, -O-Si(CH₃)₃, -O-Si(CH₃)₂OH, -O-Si(CH₃)₂OCH₃ steht,
D für eine Gruppe -H, -Si(CH₃)₃, -Si(CH₃)₂OH, -Si(CH₃)₂OCH₃ steht,
a, b und c für ganze Zahlen zwischen 0 und 1000 stehen, mit der Maßgabe a + b + c > 0
m, n und o für ganze Zahlen zwischen 1 und 1000 stehen. Derartige aminofunktionale Silikone tragen die INCI-Bezeichnung Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer. Ein besonders geeignetes Amodimethicone ist das Produkt mit der Handelsbezeichnung Wacker Belsil^® ADM 8301E. Another particularly preferred amino-functional silicone is at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V)

in the
A for a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) bonded via an -O-

or an oligomeric or polymeric radical comprising structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or one half of a connecting O atom linked to an O-unit or to -OH,
* stands for a bond to one of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) or for an end group B (Si-bonded) or D (O-bonded),
B represents a group -OH, -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH, -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ ,
D is a group -H, -Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH, -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ ,
a, b and c are integers between 0 and 1000, with the proviso that a + b + c> 0
m, n and o stand for integers between 1 and 1000. Such amino-functional silicones bear the INCI name amodimethicone / morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer. A particularly suitable amodimethicone is the product with the trade name Wacker Belsil® ^® ADM 8301E.

According to the invention it may be particularly advantageous if only the aforementioned silicones are used as silicones.

These last-mentioned cationic amino-functional silicone polymers are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 5 % By weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

Another silicone compound of the invention having amino functions are polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds may be obtained for example under the trade name Baysilone® ^® GE Bayer Silicones. The products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0 , 05 to 2.5 wt.% Each used in relation to the total composition.

enthalten, in der x für eine Zahl von 3 bis 200, vorzugsweise von 3 bis 10, weiter bevorzugt von 3 bis 7 und insbesondere 3, 4, 5 oder 6, steht. Volatile silicones are, on the one hand, cyclomethicones for the purposes of the present invention. The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are in this case preferably used according to the invention. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

Further volatile silicones in the sense of the present invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5) R ₃ Si [O-SiR ₂ ] _x - (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR ₃ (Si-5), in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, stand and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

The volatile silicones disclosed above are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 95.0% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 85.0% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 65 , 0% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 60.0% by weight. The The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 1.0 to 50.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

As further silicones in addition to the dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones and / or volatile silicones according to the invention, it is possible for alkoxylated silicones to be present in the compositions according to the invention. The alkoxylated silicones are usually water-soluble. Corresponding alkoxylated silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7). Especially preferred alkoxylated, i. Silicone-based water-soluble surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated.

worin der Rest R steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen, eine Alkoxygruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen oder eine Hydroxylgruppe, die Reste R‘ und R‘‘ bedeuten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen, x steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 100, bevorzugt von 20 bis 30, y steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20, bevorzugt von 2 bis 10 und a und b stehen für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 50, bevorzugt von 10 bis 30. Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):

in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group, the radicals R 'and R "are alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms, x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30th

Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade names SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING. Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.

The dimethicone copolyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.

in welcher die Reste R1, R2 und R3 unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl, iso-Propyl, Hydroxy, Methoxy oder Ethoxygruppe, x, y und z stehen für jeweils für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 1000, n und m stehen unabhängig voneinander jeweils für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 100. Finally, silicones containing sugar structures are further preferred silicones of the compositions according to the invention. Such silicones with sugar structures correspond to the following formula:

in which the radicals R 1, R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, hydroxy, methoxy or ethoxy group, x, y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 1000, n and m are each independently an integer from 1 to 100.

Preferably, the radicals R 1 independently of one another are methyl, hydroxy or methoxy, particularly preferably methyl. Preferably, the radicals R2 and R3 independently of one another are methyl, ethyl, propyl or isopropyl, particularly preferably methyl. Preferably, x, y and z are each independently an integer from 1 to 500, and more preferably from 1 to 200. Preferably, n and m are independently integers from 1 to 50. More preferably, m is an integer of 1 to 20, most preferably from 1 to 15, and especially for the numbers 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15. More preferably, n is an integer Number from 1 to 20, most preferably from 1 to 10 and especially from 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. A is a group selected from -CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - or mixtures of these groups, preferably selected from -CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - and mixtures thereof, most preferably -CH 2 CH 2 -.

in welcher R3 die wie zuvor beschriebene Bedeutung hat und höchst bevorzugt für Methyl steht, x, y und z sowie n und m die bereits zuvor beschriebene Bedeutung haben. A most preferred silicone of the above-described formula containing sugar structures corresponds to the formula shown below:

in which R 3 has the meaning as described above and most preferably represents methyl, x, y and z and n and m have the meaning already described above.

Such products are commercially available under the trade name PolySuga Sil from the company Colonial. A particularly preferred aminosilicone is available under the tradenames Poly Suga Sil ^® C-35P and / or poly Suga Sil ^® C-800P. The most preferred silicone containing sugar structures carries the INCI name PEG-8 PG-coco-glucoside dimethicone.

These sugar-containing silicone polymers are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 5% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight. The very best results are contained in amounts of from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

In general, the respective silicones are used in the compositions according to the invention in the amounts as indicated for the respective silicones. The total amount of all silicones in the compositions according to the invention is from 0.01 to 95.0% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 85.0% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 65.0% by weight. % and most preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 60.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 1.0 to 50.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

It is preferred according to the invention if the compositions according to the invention also contain at least one quaternary compound. The effectiveness of the composition according to the invention is thereby further increased and the stability of the composition is considerably promoted. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, it is therefore preferred to continue to use selected quaternary ammonium compounds with the compulsory ingredients already described above.

Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. The following groups have proven to be particularly suitable for this variety of possible quaternary ammonium compounds and are used in each case in an amount of 0.1 to 15.0% by weight. This amount is also not exceeded or exceeded when a mixture of different compounds of the quaternary ammonium compounds is used.

Cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat1-1) form the first group of cationic surfactants.

In the formula (Tkat1), R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms optionally having a or multiple hydroxy groups. A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.

Examples of compounds of formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.

Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat2) form a preferred group.

• – ein verzweigter oder unverzweigter Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder
• – ein gesättigter oder ungesättigter, verzweigter oder unverzweigter oder ein cyclischer gesättigter oder ungesättigter Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder
• – ein Aryl oder Alkarylrest, beispielsweise Phenyl oder Benzyl,
• – den Rest(-X-R4), mit der Maßgabe, daß höchstens 2 der Reste R1, R2 oder R3 für diesen Rest stehen können:

Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:

• A branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
• A saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
• An aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl,
• The radical (-X-R 4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R 1, R 2 or R 3 can stand for this radical:

• 1) -(CH2)n- mit n = 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise n = 1 bis 10 und besonders bevorzugt n = 1 – 5, oder
• 2) -(CH2-CHR5-O)n- mit n = 1 bis 200, vorzugsweise 1 bis 100, besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 20 mit R5 in der Bedeutung von Wasserstoff, Methyl oder Ethyl,
• 3) eine Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit ein bis vier Kohlenstoffatomen, welche verzweigt oder unverzweigt sein kann, und welche mindestens eine und höchstens 3 Hydroxygruppen enthält. Beispiele sind: -CH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH₂CHOHCH₃, -CH(CH₂OH)₂, -COH(CH₂OH)₂, -CH₂CHOHCH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂CH₂OH und Hydroxybutylreste,

und R4 steht für:

• 1) R6-O-CO-, worin R6 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann, oder
• 2) R7-CO-, worin R7 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann,

und A steht für ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion und wird an dieser Stelle stellvertretend für alle auch im Folgenden beschriebenen Strukturen definiert. Das Anion aller beschriebenen kationischen Verbindungen ist ausgewählt aus den Halogenidionen, Fluorid, Chlorid, Bromid, Iodid, Sulfaten der allgemeinen Formel RSO₃ ^–, worin R die Bedeutung von gesättigtem oder ungesättigtem Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen hat, oder anionischen Reste organischer Säuren wie Maleat, Fumarat, Oxalat, Tartrat, Citrat, Lactat oder Acetat. The remainder (X-R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times. Where X stands for:

• 1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 - 5, or
• 2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
• 3) a hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups. Examples are: -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₃ , -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ OH, CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH and hydroxybutyl radicals,

and R4 stands for:

• 1) R 6 -O-CO-, wherein R 6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or
• 2) R7-CO-, wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,

and A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below. The anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids, such as Maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.

Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^®, Dehyquart® ^{®, ®} and Armocare® Akypoquat ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU-35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat ^® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131 are examples of these esterquats.

R8 entspricht in seiner Bedeutung R7. Further compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention belong to the formula (Tkat2.1), the cationic betaine esters.

R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.

Particularly preferred are the esterquats with tradenames Armocare ^® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® L80, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131st

in der
n und m unabhängig voneinander für ganze Zahlen zwischen 5 und 40 stehen, mit der Maßgabe, daß n + m ≥ 38 ist; besonders bevorzugt ist n = m; höchst bevorzugt ist n = m = 20.
a und b unabhängig voneinander für ganze Zahlen zwischen 1 und 10 stehen; besonders unabhängig voneinander für 1, 2, 3, 4 oder 5 stehen, bevorzugt gilt hierbei die Gleichung a + 2 ≥ b ≥ a – 2 und höchst bevorzugt ist a = b = 3.
R und R´ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H und -CH₃; bevorzugt gilt R = R´, so daß vorzugsweise entweder PEG- oder PPG-Diesterquats eingesetzt werden; ganz besonders bevorzugt gilt R = R´ = -CH₃
X- ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion, ein Halogenid wie Chlorid, Bromid oder Iodid, Toluolsulfonat, Methosulfat usw., und besonders bevorzugt Methosulfat ist. In preferred agents according to the invention cationic surfactants of the formula (bI) are used within narrower ranges, so that preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they from 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, further preferably 1 to 10 wt .-%, even more preferably 1.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 2 to 5 wt .-% of at least one compound of the general formula (I).

in the
n and m independently represent integers between 5 and 40, with the proviso that n + m ≥ 38; particularly preferred is n = m; most preferably n = m = 20.
a and b are independently integers between 1 and 10; particularly independently of one another are 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, the equation a + 2 ≥ b ≥ a-2 applies here, and most preferably a = b = 3.
R and R 'are independently selected from -H and -CH ₃ ; preferably R = R ', so that preferably either PEG or PPG diester quats are used; very particularly preferably R = R'= -CH ₃
X- is a physiologically acceptable anion, a halide such as chloride, bromide or iodide, toluenesulfonate, methosulfate, etc., and more preferably methosulfate.

In particular, in the use of one of the compounds of formula (I) as described above, it has been found that the care effects of the compositions of the invention can be further increased and in particular the stability of the agents can be further improved if the agents in addition to the or the compound (EN) of the formula (I) contain certain acylated diamines.

in der x für 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 oder 24 steht. Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one compound of the formula (II)

where x stands for 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 or 24.

Compounds of the formula (II) where n = 20 are particularly preferred. Highly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they always contain a compound of the formula (I) together with a compound of the general formula (II).

Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds. The formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.

The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. A is an anion as previously described. Particularly examples according to the invention are obtainable, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium-91 is most preferred according to the invention.

• 1) Wasserstoff oder
• 2) ein Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 C-Atomen, welcher gleich oder verschieden, gesättigt oder ungesättigt sein kann, und
• 3) eine verzweigte oder unverzweigte Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit ein bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen mit mindestens einer und höchstens drei Hydroxygruppen beispielsweise -CH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH₂CHOHCH₃, -CH(CH₂OH)₂, -COH(CH₂OH)₂, -CH₂CHOHCH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂CH₂OH und Hydroxybutylreste, und

A ein Anion wie zuvor beschrieben und
n eine ganze Zahl zwischen 1 und 10 bedeuten. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas: R1-NH- (CH _{2) n} -N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A (Tkat3) wherein R1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
R2, R3 and R4 are each independently

• 1) hydrogen or
• 2) an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and
• 3) a branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl group having one to 4 carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₃ , -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and

A is an anion as previously described and
n is an integer between 1 and 10.

Preference is given to a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to general formulas (Tkat3) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given here to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these include lanolin, bees or candellila waxes.

Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (Tkat3) represent a radical according to the general formula CH ₂ CH ₂ OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms , Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.

The alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.

Examples of such inventive commercial products are Witcamine ^® 100, Incromine ^® BB, Mackine ^® 401 and other Mackine ^® grades, Adogen ^® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ^® RTM 50, Empigen ^® CSC, Swanol ^® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ^® BAS ^® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ^® behenyl HE.

in welcher R1, R2 und R3 unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine lineare verzweigte oder unverzweigte C6 bis C30, bevorzugt C8 bis C24, bevorzugter C12 bis C22 und höchst bevorzugt C12 bis C18 Alkyl- oder Alkenylgruppe. R1 bis R3 stehen vorzugsweise für Capryl, Caprylyl, Octyl, Nonyl, Decanyl, Lauryl, Myristyl, Cetyl, Stearyl, Isostearyl, Oleyl, Behenyl oder Arachidyl. Weiterhin gilt besonders bevorzugt R2 gleich R3 und höchst bevorzugt R1 gleich R2 gleich R3. Another fatty acid amide according to the invention corresponds to the general formula (I).

in which R1, R2 and R3 independently of one another represent a linear branched or unbranched C6 to C30, preferably C8 to C24, more preferably C12 to C22 and most preferably C12 to C18 alkyl or alkenyl group. R1 to R3 are preferably capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. Furthermore, R 2 is more preferably equal to R 3 and most preferably R 1 is R 2 equal to R 3.

The letters n and m independently represent integers from 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 6, and most preferably 2, 3 and / or 4, most preferably n = m. Most preferably, R1 is R2 equal to R3 and is selected from capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl and n = m = 2.

Most preferred is R 1 = R 2 = R 3 and selected from lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl, of which cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl or behenyl are particularly preferred and n = m = 2. The most preferred compound of formula (I) is the one bearing the INCI name bis-ethyl (isostearylimidazoline) isostearamides. The latter compound is available under the trade name Keradyn ^® HH by Croda commercially.

The abovementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

Other quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers.

The cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds bearing at least one cationic group, especially ammonium substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters, for example vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 Alkyl groups are. From the large number of these polymers have proven to be particularly effective components of the active ingredient complex according to the invention:
Homopolymers of the general formula - {CH ₂ - [CR ¹ COO- (CH ₂ ) _m N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ]} _n X ^- ,
in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and
X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion. In the context of these polymers, those are preferred according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R ¹ is a methyl group, R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups, m is 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.

in der gilt: x + y + z = Q
Q steht für Werte von 3 bis 55000, vorzugsweise von 10 bis 25000, besonders bevorzugt von 50 bis 15000, weiter bevorzugt von 100 bis 10000, noch weiter bevorzugt von 500 bis 8000 und insbesondere von 1000 bis 5000,
x steht für (0 bis 0,5) Q, vorzugsweise für (0 bis 0,3) Q und insbesondere für die Werte 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wobei der Wert 0 bevorzugt ist,
y steht für (0,1 bis 0,95) Q, vorzugsweise für (0,5 bis 0,7) Q und insbesondere für Werte von 1 bis 24000, vorzugsweise von 5 bis 15000, besonders bevorzugt von 10 bis 10000 und insbesondere von 100 bis 4800,
z steht für (0,001 bis 0,5) Q, vorzugsweise für (0,1 bis 0,5) Q und insbesondere für Werte von 1 bis 12500, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 8000, besonders bevorzugt von 3 bis 4000 und insbesondere von 5 bis 2000. Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, copolymers of the formula (Copo) which are preferably present in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.0025 to 2.5% by weight, based on their weight. more preferably 0.005 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0075 to 0.75 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% are included.

in which: x + y + z = Q
Q is from 3 to 55,000, preferably from 10 to 25,000, particularly preferably from 50 to 15,000, more preferably from 100 to 10,000, even more preferably from 500 to 8000 and in particular from 1000 to 5000,
x stands for (0 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0 to 0.3) Q and in particular for the values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wherein the value 0 is preferred,
y stands for (0.1 to 0.95) Q, preferably for (0.5 to 0.7) Q and in particular for values of 1 to 24000, preferably of 5 to 15000, particularly preferably of 10 to 10000 and in particular of 100 to 4800,
z stands for (0.001 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0.1 to 0.5) Q and in particular for values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, particularly preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000th

Regardless of which of the preferred copolymers of the formula (Copo) are used, preference is given to hair treatment compositions according to the invention which are characterized in that the ratio of (y: z) is 4: 1 to 1: 2, preferably 4: 1 to 1: 1 is.

Regardless of which copolymers are used in the compositions of the invention, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer has a molecular weight of 10,000 to 20 million gmol ^-1 , preferably from 100,000 to 10 million gmol ^-1 , more preferably from 500,000 to 5 million gmol ^-1 and in particular from 1.1 million to 2.2 million gmol ^-1 .

A most preferred copolymer, constructed as previously shown, is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (3V Sigma) in trade.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 and Salcare ^® SC 96 in the trade.

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula GOBN + R _a R _b R _c A ^-
G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
B is a divalent linking group, for example, alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
R _a , R _b and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , R _b and R _{c is} preferably not more than 20 is;
A ^- is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.

Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights. For example, Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ^® polymer or polymer ^® SK (Amerchol) is. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ^® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.

Other cationic celluloses are Polymer JR ^® 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ^® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24). Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ^® H 100 and Celquat ^® L 200. Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ^® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

Another group of polymers to be used in accordance with the invention are polymers based on glucose. The following figure shows such a cationic alkyl oligoglucoside.

In the formula shown above, the radicals R independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, Oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.

The radicals R 1 independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical selected from: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, Myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. More preferably, the radicals R1 are the same.

More preferably, the radicals R 1 are selected from technical mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts of C 6 / C 8 fatty alcohols, C 8 / C 10 fatty alcohols, C 10 / C 12 fatty alcohols, C 12 / C 14 fatty alcohols, C 12 / C 18 fatty alcohols, and most preferred are those technical Fatty alcohol cuts of plant origin. The counterion to the cationic charge is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example, halide, methosulfate, phosphate, citrate, tartrate, etc. Preferably, the counterion is a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or methosulfate. Most preferably, the anion is chloride. Particularly preferred examples of the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds having the INCI names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82. Most preferred are the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides designated Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82.

Such compounds can be obtained, for example, under the name Poly ^Suga® Quat from the company Colonial Chemical Inc.

The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably in amounts from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition. Of course, it is also included in the invention that more mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides can be used. In this case, preference is given to using one long-chain and one short-chain cationic alkyl oligoglucoside at the same time.

Another preferred cationic polymer may be obtained based on ethanolamine. The polymer is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-71.

This polymer can be obtained, for example, under the name ^Cola® Moist 300 P from Colonial Chemical Inc.

The polyquaternium-71 is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably in Amounts of from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, it is particularly preferable to use a cationic alkyl oligoglucoside as shown in the following figure.

In the above formula, the radical R 2 is a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, Behenyl or arachidyl.

The radical R 1 is a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R 1 is a radical selected from: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, Cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. More preferably R1 is selected from technical mixtures of fatty alcohol cuts from C6 / C8 fatty alcohols, C8 / C10 fatty alcohols, C10 / C12 fatty alcohols, C12 / C14 fatty alcohols, C12 / C18 fatty alcohols, and most preferred are those technical Fatty alcohol cuts of plant origin. The subscript n represents a number between 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 10, more preferably between 1 and 5 and most preferably between 1 and 3. The counterion to the cationic charge, A ^- , is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halide, methosulfate , Phosphate, citrate, tartrate, etc. Preferably, the counterion is a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or methosulfate. Most preferably, the anion is chloride.

Particularly preferred examples of the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds having the INCI names laurdimonium hydroxypropyl decylglucosides chlorides, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl lauryl glucosides chlorides, stearyl dimonium hydroxypropyl decyl glucosides chlorides, stearyl dimonium hydroxypropyl lauryl glucosides chlorides, stearyl dimonium hydroxypropyl lauryl glucosides chlorides or cocoglucosides hydroxypropyl trimonium chlorides.

Such compounds can be obtained, for example, under the name ^Suga® Quat from the company Colonial Chemical Inc.

The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably in amounts from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition. Of course, it is also included in the invention that more mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides can be used. In this case, preference is given to using one long-chain and one short-chain cationic alkyl oligoglucoside at the same time.

worin R¹ und R⁴ stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe,
X¹ und X² stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine Gruppe NH,
A¹ und A² stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine Gruppe Ethan-1,2-diyl, Propan-1,3-diyl oder Butan-1,4-diyl,
R², R³, R⁵ und R⁶ stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe,
R⁷ steht für eine (C₈ bis C₃₀)-Alkylgruppe Another preferred cationic polymer comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV),

wherein R ¹ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
X ¹ and X ² independently of one another represent an oxygen atom or a group NH,
A ¹ and A ² independently of one another represent a group ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl,
R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,
R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group

According to the above formulas and all following formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol * stands for a free valency of the corresponding structural fragment.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge in the inventive agent are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl groups according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl.

Examples of (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl groups according to the invention are octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl), docosyl ( behenyl).

The cationic polymers according to the invention preferably have a molecular weight of from 10,000 g / mol to 50,000,000 g / mol, in particular from 50,000 g / mol to 5,000,000 g / mol, more preferably from 75,000 g / mol to 1,000,000 g / mol.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain these cationic polymers described above in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 20.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2% by weight to 10.0% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 5.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition.

• – R¹ und R⁴ bedeuten jeweils eine Methylgruppe,
• – X¹ steht für eine Gruppe NH,
• – X² steht für eine Gruppe NH,
• – A¹ und A² stehen unabhängig voneinander für Ethan-1,2-diyl oder Propan-1,3-diyl,
• – R², R³, R⁵ und R⁶ stehen unabhängig voneinander für Methyl oder Ethyl, (besonders bevorzugt für Methyl),
• – R⁷ steht für eine (C₁₀ bis C₂₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere für Decyl (Caprinyl), Dodecyl (Lauryl), Tetradecyl (Myristyl), Hexadecyl (Cetyl), Octadecyl (Stearyl), Eicosyl (Arachyl) oder Docosyl (Behenyl).

According to the invention, subsequent cationic polymers are most preferably used in the compositions according to the invention if the cationic polymers of the abovementioned formulas (I) to (IV) fulfill one or more of the following characteristics:

• R ¹ and R ⁴ each represent a methyl group,
• X ¹ is a group NH,
• X ² is a group NH,
• A ¹ and A ² independently of one another are ethane-1,2-diyl or propane-1,3-diyl,
• R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another are methyl or ethyl, (particularly preferably methyl),
• R ⁷ is a (C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl ( behenyl).

It is preferred according to the invention to select the structural unit of the formula (III) from at least one structural unit of the formula (III-1) to (III-8)

Moreover, it proves to be particularly preferred to choose as the structural unit of the formula (III) the structural unit of the formula (III-7) and / or of the formula (III-8). The structural unit of the formula (III-8) is according to the invention a very particularly preferred structural unit.

worin R⁷ jeweils für eine (C₈ bis C₃₀)-Alkylgruppe steht. Furthermore, in view of achieving the object, it has been found preferable, when the structural unit of the formula (IV) is selected, to consist of at least one structural unit of the formulas (IV-1) to (IV-8)

wherein R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

In turn, particularly preferred structural unit of the formula (IV) are the structural units of the formula (IV-7) and / or the formula (IV-8), wherein in each case R ⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl ), Tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl). The structural unit of the formula (IV-8) represents according to the invention a very particularly preferred structural unit of the formula (IV).

worin R⁷ steht für Octyl (Capryl), Decyl (Caprinyl), Dodecyl (Lauryl), Tetradecyl (Myristyl), Hexadecyl (Cetyl), Octadecyl (Stearyl), Eicosyl (Arachyl) oder Docosyl (Behenyl). A cationic polymer which is very particularly preferably present in the agent according to the invention comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (I), at least one structural unit of the formula (II), at least one structural unit of the formula (III-8) and at least one structural unit of the formula (IV-8 )

wherein R ⁷ is octyl (capryl), decyl (caprinyl), dodecyl (lauryl), tetradecyl (myristyl), hexadecyl (cetyl), octadecyl (stearyl), eicosyl (arachyl) or docosyl (behenyl).

A very particularly preferred cationic polymer according to the invention is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which is, for example under the trade name Aqua style ^® 300 (28-32 wt .-% of active substance in ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350000) is sold by the company ISP.

The polymers described so far represent only part of the polymers which can be used according to the invention. In order not to have to describe all the cationic and / or amphoteric polymers suitable according to the invention together with their composition, the INCI declarations of the polymers preferred according to the invention are given in summary. The inventively preferred polymers bear the INCI name:
Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium- 28, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-41, Polyquaternium-42, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-68, Polyquaternium-69, Polyquaternium-72, Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium-76, Polyquaternium-86, Polyquaternium-89 and Polyquaternium-95 and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred cationic polymers bear the INCI designations:
Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium- 39, Polyquaternium-41, Polyquaternium-42, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-68, Polyquaternium-69, Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium-76, Polyquaternium-86, Polyquaternium-89 and Polyquaternium-95 as well their mixtures.

Most preferred are the cationic polymers having the names:
Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-68, Polyquaternium-69, Polyquaternium-74, Polyquaternium-76, Polyquaternium-86, Polyquaternium-89 and Polyquaternium-95 and mixtures thereof.

The abovementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Are included. The best of all Results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

• – kationisierter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^® 100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^® 550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-7,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550 und der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-16 sowie FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternisiertes Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat, zum Beispiel Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylatmethosulfat Copolymer, das unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Gafquat^® 755 N und Gafquat^® 734 von der Firma Gaf Co., USA vertrieben wird und die INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-11,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,
• – sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 und Polyquaternium-27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylcaprolactam-Acrylat-Terpolymere, wie sie mit Acrylsäureestern und Acrylsäureamiden als dritter Monomerbaustein im Handel beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Aquaflex^® SF 40 angeboten werden.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers having the INCI name Polyquaternium-7,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and the INCI name Polyquaternium-11,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
• And the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 and Polyquaternium-27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,
• - Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as a third monomer building commercially available, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

• (i) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Mono1), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R²R³R⁴A^(–) (Mono1) in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist,
• (ii) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Mono2),
  
  worin R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere für eine Methylgruppe und A^– das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist,
• (iii) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (Mono3), R⁸-CH=CR⁹-COOH (Mono3) in denen R⁸ und R⁹ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Amphoteric polymers according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:

• (i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 1), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ^(-) (Mono 1) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
• (ii) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (mono 2),
  
  wherein R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and A ^{- is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
• (iii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3), R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (mono 3) in which R ⁸ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

Particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (i) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) with the monomer (Mono3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (Mono2) and (Mono3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ^® 280 (Nalco).

in denen R¹⁰ und R¹¹ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind und R¹² für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (C₁- bis C₈)-Alkylgruppe steht, enthalten. In addition, in addition to a monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) and a monomer (Mono3), the amphoteric polymers according to the invention may additionally comprise a monomer (Mono4) (iv) monomeric carboxamides of the general formula (Mono4),

in which R ¹⁰ and R ¹¹ independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R ^{12 is} a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ - to C ₈ ) -alkyl group.

Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ^® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).

The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.

The abovementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Are included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

In order to intensify the effect according to the invention, the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle. The surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes, and is most preferred in the present invention.

In the compositions of this invention, these ingredients may potentially contribute significantly to stabilizing viscosity and storage behavior.

Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl 3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine. A particularly preferred compound is Coco Betaine.

These ingredients are used in amounts of from 0.01% to 5.0% by weight, based on the total composition of the composition. Amounts of from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight are preferred. Particularly preferred are amounts of from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, most preferably from 0.3 to 3.0% by weight.

wobei R’ für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (C₂ bis C₁₈)-Acylgruppe steht. Another highly preferred ingredient is a nonionic polymer in the compositions of the invention. This polymer is selected from the nonionic polymers containing at least one structural unit selected from the group of the structural units of the formulas (M1) to (M3)

wherein R 'is a hydrogen atom or a (C ₂ to C ₁₈ ) acyl group.

According to the above formulas and all following formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol * stands for a free valency of the corresponding structural fragment.

The properties of the composition according to the invention prove particularly advantageous when it is formulated as an aerosol spray, aerosol foam, pump spray or pump foam. This preferred form of packaging will be described later in detail.

According to the invention, a nonionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which carries in a protic solvent under standard conditions substantially no structural units having cationic or anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining the electroneutrality. Cationic groups include, for example, quaternized ammonium groups and protonated amines. Anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

The nonionic polymers as described above are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10.0% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 0.1 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.

According to the invention, preference is given to those nonionic polymers a) having at least one structural element of the formula (M3) which, according to formula (M3), carry as R 'a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a propanoyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.

The nonionic polymers according to the invention are again preferably selected from at least one polymer of the group which is formed from homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone; Polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl acetate.

Suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are, for example, commercial products such as Luviskol ^® K 90 or Luviskol ^® K 85 from BASF SE.

Suitable polyvinyl alcohols are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ^® from DuPont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products.

Suitable polyvinyl acetate is marketed under the trade name Vinac ^® as an emulsion from Air Products.

Compositions containing as nonionic polymer at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of: polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,
are very particularly preferred according to the invention.

Particular preference is given in the context of this embodiment to those agents which are particularly preferred in a cosmetically acceptable carrier as nonionic surfactant: polyvinylpyrrolidone.

In particular, in the context of this embodiment, particularly preferred agents which are present in a cosmetically acceptable carrier as nonionic polymer are, in particular, a copolymer which is prepared from the monomers N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, in particular from no further monomers.

In this case, it is again preferred if the molar ratio of the structural units comprised of the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer comprised of the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular from 30:70 to 60:40 ,

Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example under the trademark Luviskol ^® VA 37, Luviskol ^® VA 55, Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73 from the firm BASF SE.

In addition to the nonionic polymer used, the compositions of the invention may contain at least one other nonionic polymer other than the nonionic polymer described above.

In many cases, the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle. The choice of surfactants depends on the nature of the agent.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist und deren Salze,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen.
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Hydroxysulfonate im wesentlichen entsprechend mindestens einer der beiden folgenden Formeln oder deren deren Mischungen sowie deren salzen, CH₃-(CH₂)_y-CHOH-(CH₂)_p-(CH-SO₃M)-(CH₂)_z-CH₂-O-(C_nH_2nO)_x-H, und/oder CH₃-(CH₂)_y-(CH-SO₃M)-(CH₂)_p-CHOH-(CH₂)_z-CH₂-O-(C_nH_2nO)_x-H wobei in beiden Formeln y und z = 0 oder ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 18, p = 0, 1 oder 2 und die Summe (y + z + p) eine Zahl von 12 bis 18, x = 0 oder eine Zahl von 1 bis 30 und n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 4 sowie M = H oder Alkali-, insbesondere Natrium, Kalium, Lithium, Erdalkali-, insbesondere Magnesium, Calcium, Zink und/oder einem Ammoniumion, welches gegebenenfalls substituiert sein kann, insbesondere Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Tetraammoniumionen mit C1 bis C4 Alkyl-, Alkenyl- oder Arylresten,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether der Formel R¹-(CHOSO₃M)-CHR³-(OCHR⁴-CH₂)n-OR² mit R¹, einem linearen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 C-Atomen, R² für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 C-Atomen, R³ für Wasserstoff oder einen linearen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 C-Atomen, R⁴ für Wasserstoff oder einen Methylrest und M für Wasserstoff, Ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium, worin die Alkyl- und Alkanolreste je 1 bis 4 C-Atome aufweisen, oder ein Metallatom ausgewählt aus Lithium, Natrium, Kalium, Calcium oder Magnesium und n für eine Zahl im Bereich von 0 bis 12 stehen und weiterhin die Gesamtzahl der in R¹ und R³ enthaltenen C-Atome 2 bis 44 beträgt,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel, R¹(OCH₂CH₂)_n-O-(PO-OX)-OR², in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR² oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel RCO(AlkO)_nSO₃M in der RCO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Metall steht, wie Alkalimetall, insbesondere Natrium, Kalium, Lithium, Erdalkalimetall, insbesondere Magnesium, Calcium, Zink, oder Ammoniumion, wie ⁺NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C4-Kohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel R⁸OC-(OCH₂CH₂)_x-OCH₂-[CHO(CH₂CH₂O)_yH]-CH₂O(CH₂CH₂O)_z-SO₃X, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren, R¹-CO-NR²-CH₂CH₂-O-(CH₂CH₂O)_nCH₂COOM, mit R¹ als geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit einer Zahl an Kohlenstoffatomen in der Kette von 2 bis 30, n steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20 und R² steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, t-Butyl- oder iso-Butylrest und M steht für Wasserstoff oder ein Metall wie Alkalimetall, insbesondere Natrium, Kalium, Lithium, Erdalkalimetall, insbesondere Magnesium, Calcium, Zink, oder ein Ammoniumion, wie ⁺NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C4-Kohlenwasserstoffrest. Derartige Produkte sind beispielsweise von der Firma Chem-Y unter der Produktbezeichnung Akypo^® erhältlich.
• – Acylglutamate der Formel XOOC-CH2CH2CH(C(NH)OR)-COOX, in der RCO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und 0 und/oder 1, 2 oder 3 Doppelbindungen und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- und/oder Erdalkalimetall, Ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium oder Glucammonium steht,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus einem wasserlöslichen Salz eines wasserlöslichen Eiweißhydrolysats mit einer C8-C30-Fettsäure. Solche Produkte sind unter dem Warenzeichen Lamepon^®, Maypon^®, Gluadin^®, Hostapon^® KCG oder Amisoft^® seit langem im Handel erhältlich.
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyl-Oligoglykosidcarboxylate, -sulfate, -phosphate und/oder -isethionate,
• – Acyllactylate und
• – Hydroxymischethersulfate.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are:

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and salts thereof,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Hydroxysulfonates essentially corresponding to at least one of the following two formulas or mixtures thereof _and salts thereof, CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _p - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _z - CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H, and / or CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _p -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _z - CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where in both formulas y and z = 0 or integers from 1 to 18, p = 0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y + z + p) one Number of 12 to 18, x = 0 or a number from 1 to 30 and n is an integer from 2 to 4 and M = H or alkali, especially sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth, especially magnesium, calcium, zinc and or an ammonium ion, which may optionally be substituted, in particular mono-, di-, tri- or tetraammonium ions with C1 to C4 alkyl, alkenyl or aryl radicals,
• - Sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether of the formula R ¹ - (CHOSO ₃ M) -CHR ³ - (OCHR ⁴ -CH ₂ ) n-OR ² with R ¹ , a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, R ² for a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{3 is} hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{4 is} hydrogen or a methyl radical and M is hydrogen, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, wherein the alkyl and alkanol radicals each have 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium and n is a number in the range of 0 to 12 and further the total number of in R ¹ and R ³ contains C atoms 2 to 44,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² , in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,
• - Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RCO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M in the RCO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a metal such as alkali metal, especially sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, especially magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical,
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula R ⁸ OC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OCH ₂ - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - Amidethercarbonsäuren, R ¹ -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n CH ₂ COOM, with R ¹ as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R ² is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ^®.
• Acylglutamates of the formula XOOC-CH 2 CH 2 CH (C (NH) OR) -COOX in which RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium,
• - Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a C8-C30 fatty acid. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® long been commercially.
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates,
• Acyl lactylates and
• - Hydroxymix ether sulfates.

If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Furthermore, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferred that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, particularly preferably 2 to 12.

Particularly mild anionic surfactants with polyglycol ether groups without restricted homolog distribution can, for example, also be obtained if, on the one hand, the number of polyglycol ether groups is 4 to 12 and Zn or Mg ions are chosen as counterion.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettalkoholpolyglykolether bzw. die Fettalkoholpolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettalkoholpolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettsäurepolyglykolether bzw. die Fettsäurepolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettsäurepolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, die Alkylphenolpolyglykolether bzw. die Alkylpolypropylenglykolether, bzw. gemischte Alyklphenolpolyether,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol^®-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (Tnio-1) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (Tnio-1) in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, R¹O[CH₂CH(CH₃)O]_x(CH₂CHR²O)_y[CH₂CH(OH)R³]_z mit R¹ stehend für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenylrest mit 2 bis 30 C-Atomen, R² stehend für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl- oder iso-Propylrest, R³ stehend für einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 2 bis 30 C-Atomen, x stehend für 0 oder eine Zahl von 1 bis 20, Y für eine Zahl von 1 bis 30 und z stehend für die Zahl 1, 2, 3, 4 oder 5.
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide,
• – Fettsäureamidpolyglycolether, Fettaminpolyglycolether,
• – Mischether bzw. Mischformale und Polysorbate.

One example is the commercial product Texapon.RTM ^® ASV. Nonionic surfactants are for example

• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the fatty acid polyethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, the alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or the alkylpolypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed alkylpolyolpolyethers,
• - with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® grades (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (Tnio-1) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (Tnio-1) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - Hydroxymischether, R ¹ O [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _x (CH ₂ CHR ² O) _y [CH ₂ CH (OH) R ³ ] _z with R ^{1 is} a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isopropyl radical, R ^{3 is} a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms, x is 0 or a number from 1 to 20, Y is a number from 1 to 30 and z is the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• - sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type,
• Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type,
• Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers,
• - Mischether or mixed formals and polysorbates.

The surfactants are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^® 68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine, sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine, Cholesterin, Lanosterin) wie aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine, Ergosterin, Stigmasterin, Sitosterin) oder aus Pilzen und Hefen (Mykosterine),
• – Phospholipide (Lecithine, Phopshatidylcholine),
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH).

Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• Addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols, both from animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol, lanosterol) and from plant fats (phytosterols, ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols),
• - phospholipids (lecithins, phopshatidylcholines),
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH).

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

With particular preference the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances as further active ingredient. Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

As fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1-15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.

Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^{®, ®} Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, however, none of the aforementioned fatty alcohols are used.

The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1-15 wt.% Based on the total agent.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the inventive compositions is usually 0.5-75 wt .-%, based on the total mean. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

Further fatty substances according to the invention are, for example, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, and also di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for example di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, Di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether , The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soybean, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda), Crotein ^® (Croda) and Puricare ^® LS 9658 from the Laboratoires Sérobiologiques available.

Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates. Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms , for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates, may originate. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) mentioned and commercially available products called.

The protein hydrolysates are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of from 0.05% by weight to 5% % By weight.

The protein hydrolysates are near and, in some cases, superior in effect to amino acids and / or oligopetids. Therefore, according to the invention, amino acids and / or oligopeptides are preferably used as further ingredients. In the present application, the term amino acid is also understood as meaning a structure which contains only one permanent cationic group in the molecule, such as, for example, choline. Furthermore, this term is understood to mean substances such as carnitine or taurine, since, like the amino acids, they naturally occur in biological systems and in many cases behave like amino acids.

Amino acids of the invention are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, citrulline, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan , Tyrosine, acetyltyrosine, valine, betaine, ornithine, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin (Nα, Nα, Nα -trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), ergothioneine (thionein, 2-mercapto-Nα, Nα, Nα- trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), carnitine, taurine and choline, and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, it is possible to use all types of isomers, for example diastereomers, enantiomers, cis-trans isomers, optical isomers, conformational isomers and racemates.

Of particular preference are alanine, arginine, asparagine, citrulline, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine, betaine, ornithine, acetyltyrosine, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, carnitine, Taurine, choline and mixtures used.

Arginine, citrulline, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, proline, serine, betaine, ornithine, carnitine, taurine, acetyltyrosine and mixtures thereof are very particularly preferably used.

Arginine, citrulline, glutamine, histidine, lysine, acetyl tyrosine, ornithine, carnitine and taurine and mixtures thereof are most preferably used.

Arginine, citrulline, glutamine, acetyltyrosine, ornithine, carnitine and taurine as well as the mixtures of arginine and taurine, glutamine and taurine, glutamine and carnitine, arginine and glutamine, carnitine and taurine, as well as the mixtures of arginine, carnitine and taurine, are most preferred. Glutamine, carnitine and taurine and arginine, acetyltyrosine, ornithine and citrulline.

Oligopeptides in the sense of the present application are acid amide-like linked by peptide bonds condensation products of amino acids comprising at least 3 and a maximum of 25 amino acids. In hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention, the oligopeptide comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, particularly preferably 7 to 12 amino acids and in particular 8, 9 or 10 amino acids.

A most preferred oligopeptide has the sequence Glu-Glu-Glu. Depending on whether further amino acids are bound to the sequence Glu-Glu-Glu and depending on the nature of these amino acids, the molecular weight of the oligopeptide contained in the agents of the invention may vary.

Hair treatment compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide has a molecular weight of from 650 to 3000 Da, preferably from 750 to 2500 Da, particularly preferably from 850 to 2000 Da and in particular from 1000 to 1600 Da.

As can be seen from the preferred number of amino acids in the oligopeptides and the preferred molecular weight range, it is preferred to use oligopeptides which do not consist solely of the three glutamic acids but have further amino acids bound to this sequence. These other amino acids are preferably selected from certain amino acids, while certain other representatives are less preferred in the present invention. Thus, it is preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no methionine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no cysteine and / or cystine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no aspartic acid and / or asparagine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no serine and / or threonine. In contrast, it is preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain tyrosine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain leucine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain isoleucine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain arginine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain valine. Particularly preferred oligopeptides or amino acid sequences contained in the preferred oligopeptides are described below:
A particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains tyrosine, which is preferably linked via its acid function to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence. Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu, where the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Another particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains isoleucine, which is preferably linked to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence via its amino function. Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile, where the amino group can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated.

Oligopeptides which have both the abovementioned amino acids (tyrosine and isoleucine) are preferred according to the invention. Hair treatment agents according to the invention in which the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile are particularly preferred, the amino group being free or protonated and the carboxy groups being free or deprotonated.

Further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain arginine, which is preferably bound to isoleucine. A most preferred oligopeptide is available under the trade name ProSina ^® by the company. Croda commercially.

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain the selected amino acids and / or the selected oligopeptides as described above in a total amount - based on the total agent - in an amount of 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.0001 to 7.0% by weight, most preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight. Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H. The vitamins or vitamin precursors of vitamin A, vitamin E and vitamin C are particularly preferably used in conjunction with inorganic UV filters when the compositions according to the invention are formulated free of synthetic UV filters.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include:
Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

The stated compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B ₃ , B ₅ and B ₆ , are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile become established. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

A particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the betaines mentioned below: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, betalain, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and those described in the literature Betaine designated compound N, N, N-trimethylglycine.

In a further embodiment preferred according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain biochinones. In the agents according to the invention, suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred. Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here are inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s). Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic preparations, caffeine is most preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent contains ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are agents which, based on their weight, are from 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 3% by weight, of the active compounds from Group formed by carnitine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a B-series vitamin, a purine and its derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.

A particularly preferred care additive in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention is taurine. Taurine is understood to mean exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and a derivative to the explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine. Derivatives of taurine include N-monomethyltaurine, N, N-dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithithate, lysyltaurine and ornithyl taurine.

Particularly preferred are agents according to the invention, which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1.0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included. The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.

By using plant extracts as care substances, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be formulated in a particularly natural and yet very effective way in their care performance. Optionally, even otherwise customary preservatives can be dispensed with. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic Plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, the various varieties of millet (millet, crab, millet as examples), cane, ryegrass, wi foxtail, oat grass, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistling grass, bamboo, cotton grass, lamprey grass, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called grass or cogon grass), buffalo grass, mud grass, canine grasses, love grasses, cymbopogon (lemongrass), oryzeae (rice), zizania (wild rice) , Marram grass, perennial oats, honey grasses, quaking grasses, Panicle grasses, couch grass and Echinacea, in particular Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench, all kinds of wine as well as Perikarp of Litchie chinensis preferred.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Occasionally it may be necessary to use anionic polymers. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1.9-decadienes crosslinked maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM. The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.

• – Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal^® und Benecel^® (AQUALON) und Natrosol^®-Typen (Hercules) vertrieben werden.
• – Stärke und deren Derivate, insbesondere Stärkeether, beispielsweise Structure^® XL (National Starch), eine multifunktionelle, salztolerante Stärke;
• – Schellack.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules) are distributed.
• - starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
• - shellac.

The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one UV light protection filter. However, this is not preferred according to the invention if the UV protection filter is a synthetic UV filter. UV filters which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, vegetable oils which have UV-absorbing properties. These are, for example, sesame oil, olive oil, coconut oil, hemp oil or palm oil. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher, z.B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester, 2-Cyano-3-phenylzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octocrylene);
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-isopropylben-zylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-meth-oxy-4‘-methylbenzophenon, 2,2‘-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester;
• – Triazinderivate, wie z.B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2‘-ethyl-1‘-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin und Octyltriazon.
• – Propan-1,3-dione, wie z.B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4‘methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion;

Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

• 3-benzylidene camphor, eg 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• Triazine derivatives such as 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyltriazone.
• Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

• – 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsul-fonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Suitable water-soluble substances are:

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane are suitable, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, in particular finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. These inorganic UV filters are considered non-synthetic UV filters in the context of the present invention. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.

• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Quellmittel wie Harnstoff, Allantoin, Carbonate oder Hydantoin,
• – Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels, wobei dies erfindungsgemäß nicht bevorzugt ist,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Stabilisierungsmittel für Wasserstoffperoxid und andere Oxidationsmittel,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien,
• – Parfümöle, Duftstoffe und Riechstoffe, wobei dies erfindungsgemäß nicht bevorzugt ist, sofern es sich um synthetische Parfümöle, Duftstoffe und Riechstoffe handelt.

Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as

• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin,
• Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Dyes for staining the agent, which is not preferred according to the invention,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants,
• Perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances, although this is not preferred according to the invention, as far as synthetic perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances are concerned.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

Another subject of the invention is therefore a method for hair treatment, in which a hair treatment composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and is rinsed by the hair after a contact time.

The exposure time is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 50 minutes and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.

According to the invention is also a method in which a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and remains there. By "remaining on the hair" is understood according to the invention that the agent is not rinsed out of the hair immediately after its application. Rather, the agent remains in this case more than 100 minutes until the next hair wash on the hair.

The compositions according to the invention can be present both in single phase and in multiphase, for example in particular with two or three optically clearly separated discrete phases. When the compositions are multi-phase, the whole composition is shaken into a single-phase composition before use and applied. After shaking, spontaneous segregation again occurs and again the discrete phases form within about 1 minute up to 300 minutes. If the composition is multiphase, it is packaged in optically transparent packaging.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are packaged as pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol foam.

For this purpose, the agents according to the invention are packaged in a dispensing device, which is either an additionally filled with a propellant compressed gas container ("aerosol container") or a non-aerosol container.

The pressurized gas containers, with the aid of which a product is distributed by the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve, are defined as "aerosol containers". In contrast to the aerosol definition, a container under normal pressure is defined as a "nonaerosol container", with the aid of which a product is distributed by means of a mechanical action by means of a pumping system.

The agents according to the invention are preferably formulated as aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray. The agent according to the invention therefore preferably additionally contains at least one propellant.

Propellants suitable according to the invention are selected, for example, from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, said alkanes, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.

With regard to the quantity ratio of blowing agent to the other constituents of the preparations, the sizes of the aerosol droplets or of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.

The amount of blowing agent used varies depending on the specific composition of the composition, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam. When conventional spray devices are used, aerosol foam products preferably contain the blowing agent in amounts of from 1 to 35% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger amounts of propellant.

Preferably, the blowing agent is used in this case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular from 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way. As a rule, all constituents of the respective agent, with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.

For foaming of gel-like agents in a two-chamber aerosol container isopentane is preferably suitable as a propellant, which is incorporated in the compositions according to the invention and in the first chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container is assembled. In the second chamber of the two-chamber aerosol container, at least one further propellant other than isopentane is made up, which builds up a higher pressure in the two-chamber aerosol container than the isopentane. The blowing agents of the second chamber are preferably selected from N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air, alkanes having 3 or 4 carbon atoms (such as propane, n-butane, isobutane) and mixtures thereof.

A preferred embodiment of the agents according to the invention are aerosol hair foams or aerosol hair sprays containing the previously described inventive agent and at least one propellant.

Preferred inventive agents and blowing agents of the aerosol hair foam or aerosol hair spray, as well as the respective amounts of propellant correspond to those already mentioned above.

However, highly preferred compositions according to the invention are formulated as non-aerosols. For this purpose, as already mentioned, special pumps and delivery systems are necessary. These are well known to those skilled in the art. Known and outstandingly suitable systems are provided, for example, by the company Airspray International BV, for example under the product name Airfoamer.

When formulated as a non-aerosol foam in a suitable container with a suitable conveying and pumping mechanism, the foam is generally produced by a fine-meshed screen in the pump head by means of simultaneously sucked by the pump air. For this purpose it is advantageous if the total composition according to the invention has a viscosity of from 1 to 35,000, more preferably from 1 to 10,000, even more preferably from 1 to 5,000 and most preferably from 2 to 500 mPas. The viscosity is measured by conventional methods.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.

Examples

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight. The following formulations were provided using known manufacturing processes Care Spray, also in foam form and / or as a hair care application:

The pH of all formulations was adjusted to 2 to 6.

For application as a foam the recipe in question is either filled with a propellant in an aerosol container or discharged from a pump bottle with a corresponding pump attachment, such as Airfoamer as foam.

For use as a hair conditioner or cream, fatty alcohols such as cetylstearyl alcohol and / or ethylene glycol distearate and / or glycerol monostearate are added to the abovementioned formulations in amounts of from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight. Hair conditioner: isopropyl 0.5 Dehyquart® ^® F75 0.8 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 1.5 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.0 Dimethicone 60000 cSt 3.0 Polyquaternium-37 0.2 Apricot kernel oil 2.0 marula 2.0 panthenol 0.2 Ceteareth-25 0.4 protein hydrolyzate 0.2 Combretum Farinosum Flower Nectar 0.5 Water, preservation and possibly perfume oils ad 100

Shampoo:

The pH was adjusted to pH 2 to 4.5. Hair oil, anhydrous: O1 O2 O3 O4 O5 O6 Cyclomethicone and dimethiconol 70.0 70.0 35.0 44.0 43.5 75.0 Octamethyltrisiloxane 27.5 - - 25.0 30.0 - Cyclopentasiloxane - 27.5 36.6 25.5 20.0 20.0 Combretum Farinosum Flower Nectar 0.5 0.5 0.5 1.0 1.0 1.0 PEG-8 PG-Coco-Glucoside Dimethicone - - - 1.5 1.5 1.0 hemp oil - - - 2.0 2.0 - sesame oil - - - - 2.0 2.0 olive oil - - - 1.0 - 1.0 Possibly. UV filter 0.2 0.2 0.1 - - - Possibly. Dye, preservative, perfume 1.0 1.0 0.5 - - -

Shampoo:

The pH of all formulations was adjusted to 4.5 to 5.8.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited non-patent literature

• Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970 [0043]
• Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970 [0048]
• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0212]

Claims (10)

 Hair treatment composition containing - based on the weight of the entire composition - a) 0.001 to 5 wt .-% flower nectar and b) 0.01 to 95.0 wt.% Of at least one ester oil and c) an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier. Hair treatment composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition is furthermore free of a fatty alcohol having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the composition is free of syntethic UV filters. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that further at least one quaternary ammonium compound in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt.% Based on the weight of the total composition selected from at least one of the groups of i) the Esterquats and / or ii) the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2),

in which the radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or iii) the amines and / or cationized amines and / or iv) poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and / or; v) quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, and / or vi) cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or vii) cationized honey and / or viii) cationic guar derivatives and / or ix) chitosan and / or x) polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular polyquaternium-7 and / or xi) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, in particular polyquaternium-11 and / or xii) vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, especially polyquaternium-16 and / or xiii) quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or xiv) polyquaternium-74, and mixtures thereof. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the ester oil is selected from the vegetable oils. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the vegetable oil is a cold-pressed vegetable oil. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the content of aqueous or aqueous alcoholic carrier is less than 5.0 wt.%. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that additionally at least one active ingredient selected from the group consisting of carnitine, taurine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a purine and its derivatives, especially caffeine, or their physiologically acceptable Salts, and a vitamin of the B-series, in particular panthenol, is included. Hair treatment composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compound is selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamines and / or distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dicocoyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chlorides and / or quaternium-27 and / or quaternium-91 and / or behenoyl PG -Trimoniumchloride. Process for the treatment of keratinic fibers, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to the keratinic fibers and remains on the hair until the next hair wash.