DE102012222770A1 - Hair care preparations containing selected perfume oils and selected silicones containing sugar structures - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention describes compositions for treating keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which, in addition to the conditioning properties and the shine and feel of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, significantly improve the adhesion of fragrances to the keratin fibers compared to compositions of the prior art .

Description

The present invention describes compositions for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which, in addition to the conditioning properties and gloss and feel of keratinic fibers, especially human hair, over prior art compositions significantly improve the adhesion of fragrances to the keratinic fibers , Frequently the consumer does not complain about insufficient combability of the keratinic fibers but rather about the scent impression of the washed keratin fibers, especially hours after washing and styling when the keratinic fibers have been exposed to the environment for a long time. The smell of the keratinic fibers fades or changes greatly when the washed keratinic fibers in the environment are exposed to influences such as smog, smoke, especially smoke from tobacco products, fatty odors in kitchens, or overly perfumed rooms such as department stores. Here, the consumer increasingly expects a hair treatment agent, which smells even after hours of washing and hairdressing and staying in such an environment still perfectly. The compositions according to the invention contain, as essential ingredients, cationic ammonium compounds, amidoamines, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, ester oils, cationic polymers and cationic silicone compounds. The cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, especially human hair, is an important part of human body care. For example, human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations.

There is still a need for active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability. Furthermore, the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions is an extremely important criterion. Compositions for use on keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, not only have to have good cleansing and conditioning and care properties, but should continue to be well tolerated and, even with frequent use, not lead to excessive defatting or dryness and split ends. The feeling of the keratin fibers after cosmetic treatments is an essential criterion, whether the corresponding composition is perceived by the consumer as pleasant. The sensor technology and in particular the feel of a composition are thus essential effects that the consumer can experience. Therefore, precisely those compositions are sought which not only care for the keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, but also noticeably and tangibly change their sensory and in particular olfactory and haptic properties of the surface of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair. In particular, the fragrance of the washed and / or keratinized fibers should not be changed by environmental influences but remain as unchanged as possible over the course of hours. In addition, the compositions should regenerate and balance the structure, in particular inside the keratinic fibers, in particular the human hair. At the same time, the compositions should be easy and inexpensive to produce.

• a) mindestens eine quartäre Ammoniumverbindung in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, wobei die quatäre Ammoniumverbindung ausgewählt ist aus mindestens einer der Gruppen i. der Esterquats und/oder ii. der quarternären Imidazoline der Formel (Tkat2),
  
  in welcher die Reste R unabhängig voneinander jeweils für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht, und/oder iii. der Amine und/oder kationisierten Amine und/oder iv. Poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumverbindungen) und/oder; v. quaternisierten Cellulose-Derivaten, insbesondere Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, und/oder vi. kationischen Alkylpolyglycosiden und/oder vii. kationisertem Honig und/oder viii. kationischen Guar-Derivaten und/oder ix. Chitosan und/oder x. polymeren Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalzen und deren Copolymeren mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure, insbesondere Polyquaternium-7 und/oder xi. Copolymeren des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, insbesondere Polyquaternium-11 und/oder xii. Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymeren, insbesondere Polyquaternium-16 und/oder xiii. quaterniertem Polyvinylalkohol und/oder xiv. Polyquaternium-74 und deren Mischungen und
• b) 0,001 bis 5,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines Riechstoffes und
• c) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 5 Gew.-% mindestens eines Tensides ausgewählt aus den zwitterionischen und/oder amphoteren Tensides und
• d) 0,01 bis 5,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines zuckerhaltigen Silikones der Formel
  
  in welcher die Reste R1, R2 und R3 unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl, iso-Propyl, Hydroxy, Methoxy oder Ethoxygruppe, x, y und z stehen für jeweils für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 1000, n und m stehen unabhängig voneinander jeweils für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 100,

in idealer Weise erfüllt.However, it has now surprisingly been found that a cosmetic composition containing in a cosmetic carrier - based on the weight of the entire composition -

• a) at least one quaternary ammonium compound in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt .-%, wherein the quaternary ammonium compound is selected from at least one of the groups i. the esterquats and / or ii. the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2),
  
  in which the radicals R are each independently of the other a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or iii. the amines and / or cationized amines and / or iv. Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and / or; v. quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, and / or vi. cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or vii. cationised honey and / or viii. cationic guar derivatives and / or ix. Chitosan and / or x. polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular Polyquaternium-7 and / or xi. Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, in particular Polyquaternium-11 and / or xii. Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers, in particular Polyquaternium-16 and / or xiii. quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or xiv. Polyquaternium-74 and mixtures thereof and
• b) 0.001 to 5.0 wt .-% of at least one fragrance and
• c) 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-% of at least one surfactant selected from the zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and
• d) 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-% of at least one sugar-containing silicone of the formula
  
  in which the radicals R 1, R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, hydroxy, methoxy or ethoxy group, x, y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 1000, n and m are each independently an integer from 1 to 100,

ideally fulfilled.

When using this combination, there are surprisingly good properties of the treated hair, in particular to improved combing, improved gloss and improved elasticity as well as a significantly increased wash resistance dyed hair, as well as a longer shelf life with a simultaneous better forming performance in corrugations such Water wave and perm. Most surprisingly, however, the ability of the keratinic fibers treated with this composition to preserve the perfume achieved by the perfume even under severe environmental conditions for at least 12 hours.

Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair packs, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos or combinations thereof. In particular, the hair conditioning compositions such as hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair oils and lotions both as leave-on, so as on the hair until the next hair wash remaining products, as well as rinse-off, so few seconds to a few hours after Application again rinsed products, understood by the hair treatment compositions according to the invention.

By combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber.

The grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective.

Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.

Restructuring in the context of the invention is to be understood as a reduction of the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to a great variety of influences. Here, for example, the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role.

Restructured fibers are characterized by improved gloss, improved grip and ease of combing. In addition, they have improved strength and elasticity. Furthermore, a successful restructuring can be physically detected as a melting point increase compared to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the firmer the structure of the fiber.

For the purposes of the invention, "wash fastness" refers to the preservation of the original color with regard to nuance and / or intensity when the keratinic fiber is exposed to the repeated influence of aqueous agents, in particular surfactant-containing agents such as shampoos.

The preservation of the fragrance of the treated keratin fiber is understood to mean that the olfactory impression left by a fragrance on the keratinic fibers can be perceived olfactorily by the action of other fragrances, such as cold smoke, at least 12 hours after the application of the cosmetic product ,

Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention comprising the active substance complex according to the invention are distinguished by a significantly improved state of the keratinic fibers with respect to the moisture balance of the keratinic fibers. Furthermore, the active substance complex according to the invention leads to a clear protection of the keratinic fibers from the effects of heat, for example during blow-drying of keratinic fibers. The protection of the surface of keratinic fibers from the effects of heat is of great importance, in particular when using straighteners or hair dryers. Finally, it has surprisingly been found that the compositions according to the invention lead to a significantly delayed re-soiling of the keratinic fibers.

An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-Pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol or 1,6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. Particularly preferred is water.

Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. From these many possible quaternary ammonium compounds, the following groups have proven to be particularly suitable and are taken in each case in an amount of 0.1 to 15.0 wt .-%. This amount is also not exceeded or exceeded when a mixture of different compounds of the quaternary ammonium compounds is used.

Cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat1-1) form the first group of cationic surfactants.

In the formula (Tkat1), R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms optionally having a or multiple hydroxy groups. A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.

Examples of compounds of formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.

Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat2) form a preferred group.

• – ein verzweigter oder unverzweigter Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder
• – ein gesättigter oder ungesättigter, verzweigter oder unverzweigter oder ein cyclischer gesättigter oder ungesättigter Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder
• – ein Aryl oder Alkarylrest, beispielsweise Phenyl oder Benzyl,
• – den Rest (-X-R4), mit der Maßgabe, dass höchstens 2 der Reste R1, R2 oder R3 für diesen Rest stehen können:

Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:

• A branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
• A saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
• An aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl,
• - the radical (-X-R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical:

The rest - (X-R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.

• 1) -(CH2)n- mit n = 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise n = 1 bis 10 und besonders bevorzugt n = 1–5, oder
• 2) -(CH2-CHR5-O)n- mit n = 1 bis 200, vorzugsweise 1 bis 100, besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 20 mit R5 in der Bedeutung von Wasserstoff, Methyl oder Ethyl,
• 3) eine Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit ein bis vier Kohlenstoffatomen, welche verzweigt oder unverzweigt sein kann, und welche mindestens eine und höchstens 3 Hydroxygruppen enthält. Beispiele sind: -CH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH₂CHOHCH₃, -CH(CH₂OH)₂, -COH(CH₂OH)₂, -CH₂CHOHCH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂CH₂OH und Hydroxybutylreste,

und R4 steht für:

• 1) R6-O-CO-, worin R6 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann, oder
• 2) R7-CO-, worin R7 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann,

und A steht für ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion und wird an dieser Stelle stellvertretend für alle auch im Folgenden beschriebenen Strukturen definiert. Das Anion aller beschriebenen kationischen Verbindungen ist ausgewählt aus den Halogenidionen, Fluorid, Chlorid, Bromid, Iodid, Sulfaten der allgemeinen Formel RSO₃ ^–, worin R die Bedeutung von gesättigtem oder ungesättigtem Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen hat, oder anionischen Reste organischer Säuren wie Maleat, Fumarat, Oxalat, Tartrat, Citrat, Lactat oder Acetat. Solche Produkte werden beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Rewoquat^®, Stepantex^®, Dehyquart^®, Armocare^® und Akypoquat^® vertrieben. Die Produkte Armocare^® VGH-70, Dehyquart^® F-75, Dehyquart^® C-4046, Dehyquart^® L80, Dehyquart^® F-30, Dehyquart^® AU-35, Rewoquat^® WE18, Rewoquat^® WE38 DPG, Stepantex^® VS 90 und Akypoquat^® 131 sind Beispiele für diese Esterquats.Where X stands for:

• 1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1-5, or
• 2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
• 3) a hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups. Examples are: -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₃ , -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ OH, CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH and hydroxybutyl radicals,

and R4 stands for:

• 1) R 6 -O-CO-, wherein R 6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or
• 2) R7-CO-, wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,

and A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below. The anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids, such as Maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate. Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^®, Dehyquart® ^{®, ®} and Armocare® Akypoquat ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, Dehyquart ^® F- 75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU-35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat WE38 ^® DPG, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131 are examples of these esterquats.

Further compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention belong to the formula (Tkat2.1), the cationic betaine esters.

R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.

Particularly preferred are the esterquats with tradenames Armocare ^® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® 180, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131st

in der
n und m unabhängig voneinander für ganze Zahlen zwischen 5 und 40 stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass n + m ≥ 38 ist; besonders bevorzugt ist n = m; höchst bevorzugt ist n = m = 20.
a und b unabhängig voneinander für ganze Zahlen zwischen 1 und 10 stehen; besonders unabhängig voneinander für 1, 2, 3, 4 oder 5 stehen, bevorzugt gilt hierbei die Gleichung a + 2 ≥ b ≥ a – 2 und höchst bevorzugt ist a = b = 3.
R und R' unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H und -CH₃; bevorzugt gilt R = R', so dass vorzugsweise entweder PEG- oder PPG-Diesterquats eingesetzt werden; ganz besonders bevorzugt gilt R = R' = -CH₃
X- ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion, ein Halogenid wie Chlorid, Bromid oder Iodid, Toluolsulfonat, Methosulfat usw., und besonders bevorzugt Methosulfat ist.In preferred compositions according to the invention cationic surfactants of the formula (bI) are used within narrower ranges, so that preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they further 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-% preferably 1 to 10 wt .-%, even more preferably 1.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 2 to 5 wt .-% of at least one compound of the general formula (I).

in the
n and m independently represent integers between 5 and 40, with the proviso that n + m ≥ 38; particularly preferred is n = m; most preferably n = m = 20.
a and b are independently integers between 1 and 10; particularly independently of one another are 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, the equation a + 2 ≥ b ≥ a-2 applies here, and most preferably a = b = 3.
R and R 'are independently selected from -H and -CH ₃ ; preferably R = R ', so that preferably either PEG or PPG diester quats are used; very particularly preferably, R = R '= -CH ₃
X- is a physiologically acceptable anion, a halide such as chloride, bromide or iodide, toluenesulfonate, methosulfate, etc., and more preferably methosulfate.

in der x für 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 oder 24 steht.In particular, when using one of the compounds of the formula (I) as described above, it has been found that the care effects of the agents according to the invention can be increased further and in particular the stability of the agents can be further improved if the agents in addition to the compound (s) (EN) of the formula (I) contain certain acylated diamines. Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one compound of the formula (II)

where x stands for 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 or 24.

Compounds of the formula (II) where n = 20 are particularly preferred. Highly preferred compounds according to the invention are characterized in that they always contain a compound of the formula (I) together with a compound of the general formula (II).

Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds. The formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.

The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. A stands for an anion as previously described. Particularly examples according to the invention are obtainable, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium-91 is most preferred according to the invention.

• 1) Wasserstoff oder
• 2) ein Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 C-Atomen, welcher gleich oder verschieden, gesättigt oder ungesättigt sein kann, und
• 3) eine verzweigte oder unverzweigte Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit ein bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen mit mindestens einer und höchstens drei Hydroxygruppen beispielsweise -CH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH₂CHOHCH₃, -CH(CH₂OH)₂, -COH(CH₂OH)₂, -CH₂CHOHCH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂CH₂OH und Hydroxybutylreste, und

A ein Anion wie zuvor beschrieben und
n eine ganze Zahl zwischen 1 und 10 bedeuten.In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas: R1-NH- (CH _{2) n} -N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A (Tkat3) wherein R1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
R2, R3 and R4 are each independently

• 1) hydrogen or
• 2) an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and
• 3) a branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl group having one to 4 carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₃ , -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and

A is an anion as previously described and
n is an integer between 1 and 10.

Preference is given to a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to general formulas (Tkat3) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given here to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these are lanolin, bees or candellila waxes.

Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (Tkat3) represent a radical according to the general formula CH ₂ CH ₂ OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms , Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.

The alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.

Examples of such commercial products according to the invention are Witcamine 100 ^{®, ®} Incromine BB, Mackine ^® 401 and other Mackine ^® grades, Adogen ^® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: ^® RTM Rewoquat 50 Empigen ^® CSC, Swanol ^® Lanoquat DES 50 Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ^® BAS ^® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ^® behenyl HE.

in welcher R1, R2 und R3 unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine lineare verzweigte oder unverzweigte C6 bis C30, bevorzugt C8 bis C24, bevorzugter C12 bis C22 und höchst bevorzugt C12 bis C18 Alkyl- oder Alkenylgruppe. R1 bis R3 stehen vorzugsweise für Capryl, Caprylyl, Octyl, Nonyl, Decanyl, Lauryl, Myristyl, Cetyl, Stearyl, Isostearyl, Oleyl, Behenyl oder Arachidyl. Weiterhin gilt besonders bevorzugt R2 gleich R3 und höchst bevorzugt R1 gleich R2 gleich R3. Die Buchstaben n und m stehen unabhängig voneinander für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 10, vorzugsweise 2 bis 6 und höchst bevorzugt für 2, 3 und/oder 4, wobei höchst bevorzugt n = m ist. Höchst bevorzugt sind R1 gleich R2 gleich R3 und ausgewählt aus Capryl, Caprylyl, Octyl, Nonyl, Decanyl, Lauryl, Myristyl, Cetyl, Stearyl, Isostearyl, Oleyl, Behenyl oder Arachidyl und n = m = 2. Am bevorzugtesten ist R1 = R2 = R3 und ausgewählt aus Lauryl, Myristyl, Cetyl, Stearyl, Isostearyl, Oleyl, Behenyl oder Arachidyl, worunter Cetyl, Stearyl, Isostearyl, Oleyl oder Behenyl besonders bevorzugt sind und n = m = 2. Die bevorzugteste Verbindung der Formel (I) ist diejenige, welche den INCI Namen Bis-Ethyl(isostearylimidazoline)Isostearamide trägt. Letztere Verbindung ist unter der Handelsbezeichnung Keradyn^® HH von der Firma Croda im Handel erhältlich. Die zuvor genannten kationischen Tenside können einzeln oder in beliebigen Kombinationen miteinander verwendet werden, wobei Mengen zwischen 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01 bis 7,5 Gew.-% und ganz besonders bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 bis 5,0 Gew.-% enthalten. Die allerbesten Ergebnisse werden dabei mit Mengen von 0,1 bis 3,0 Gew.-% jeweils bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung des jeweiligen Mittels erhalten.Another fatty acid amide according to the invention corresponds to the general formula (I).

in which R1, R2 and R3 independently of one another represent a linear branched or unbranched C6 to C30, preferably C8 to C24, more preferably C12 to C22 and most preferably C12 to C18 alkyl or alkenyl group. R1 to R3 are preferably capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. Furthermore, R 2 is more preferably equal to R 3 and most preferably R 1 is R 2 equal to R 3. The letters n and m independently represent integers from 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 6, and most preferably 2, 3 and / or 4, most preferably n = m. Most preferably R1 is R2 equal to R3 and is selected from capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl and n = m = 2. Most preferably R1 = R2 = R3 and selected from lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl, among which cetyl, stearyl, isostearyl, oleyl or behenyl are particularly preferred and n = m = 2. The most preferred compound of formula (I) is that bearing the INCI name Bis-Ethyl (isostearylimidazoline) isostearamide. The latter compound is available under the trade name Keradyn ^® HH by Croda commercially. The aforementioned cationic surfactants may be used individually or in any combination with each other, wherein amounts between 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 7.5 wt .-%, and most preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-% included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-% each based on the total composition of the respective agent.

Other quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers. The cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxy-alkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. As alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. For example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

From the large number of these polymers have proven to be particularly effective components of the active ingredient complex according to the invention:
Homopolymers of the general formula - {CH ₂ - [CR ¹ COO- (CH ₂ ) _m N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ]} _n X ^- ,
in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable one is organic or inorganic anion. In the context of these polymers, those are preferred according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R ¹ is a methyl group, R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups, m is 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.

in der gilt:
x + y + z = Q
Q steht für Werte von 3 bis 55000, vorzugsweise von 10 bis 25000, besonders bevorzugt von 50 bis 15000, weiter bevorzugt von 100 bis 10000, noch weiter bevorzugt von 500 bis 8000 und insbesondere von 1000 bis 5000,
x steht für (0 bis 0,5) Q, vorzugsweise für (0 bis 0,3) Q und insbesondere für die Werte 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wobei der Wert 0 bevorzugt ist,
y steht für (0,1 bis 0,95) Q, vorzugsweise für (0,5 bis 0,7) Q und insbesondere für Werte von 1 bis 24000, vorzugsweise von 5 bis 15000, besonders bevorzugt von 10 bis 10000 und insbesondere von 100 bis 4800,
z steht für (0,001 bis 0,5) Q, vorzugsweise für (0,1 bis 0,5) Q und insbesondere für Werte von 1 bis 12500, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 8000, besonders bevorzugt von 3 bis 4000 und insbesondere von 5 bis 2000.Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, copolymers of the formula (Copo) which are preferably present in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.0025 to 2.5% by weight, based on their weight. more preferably 0.005 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0075 to 0.75 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% are included.

in which:
x + y + z = Q
Q is from 3 to 55,000, preferably from 10 to 25,000, particularly preferably from 50 to 15,000, more preferably from 100 to 10,000, even more preferably from 500 to 8000 and in particular from 1000 to 5000,
x stands for (0 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0 to 0.3) Q and in particular for the values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wherein the value 0 is preferred,
y stands for (0.1 to 0.95) Q, preferably for (0.5 to 0.7) Q and in particular for values of 1 to 24000, preferably of 5 to 15000, particularly preferably of 10 to 10000 and in particular of 100 to 4800,
z stands for (0.001 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0.1 to 0.5) Q and in particular for values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, particularly preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000th

Regardless of which of the preferred copolymers of the formula (Copo) are used, preference is given to hair treatment compositions according to the invention which are characterized in that the ratio of (y: z) is 4: 1 to 1: 2, preferably 4: 1 to 1: 1 is.

Regardless of which copolymers are used in the compositions of the invention, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer has a molecular weight of 10,000 to 20 million gmol ^-1 , preferably from 100,000 to 10 million gmol ^-1 , more preferably from 500,000 to 5 million gmol ^-1 and in particular from 1.1 million to 2.2 million gmol ^-1 .

A most preferred copolymer, constructed as previously shown, is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (3V Sigma) in trade.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 and Salcare ^® SC 96 in the trade.

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula GOB-N + R _a R _b R _c A ^-
G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
B is a divalent linking group, for example, alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
R _a , R _b and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , R _b and R _{c is} preferably not more than 20 is;
A ^- is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.

Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights.

For example, Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ^® polymer or polymer ^® SK (Amerchol) is. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ^® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.

Other cationic celluloses are Polymer JR ^® 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ^® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24). Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ^® H 100 and Celquat ^® L 200. Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ^® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

Another group of polymers to be used in accordance with the invention are polymers based on glucose. The following figure shows such a cationic alkyl oligoglucoside.

In the formula shown above, the radicals R independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, Oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl.

The radicals R 1 independently of one another are a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical selected from: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, Myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or Arachidyl. More preferably, the radicals R1 are the same. More preferably, the radicals R 1 are selected from technical mixtures of the fatty alcohol cuts of C 6 / C 8 fatty alcohols, C 8 / C 10 fatty alcohols, C 10 / C 12 fatty alcohols, C 12 / C 14 fatty alcohols, C 12 / C 18 fatty alcohols, and most preferred are those technical Fatty alcohol cuts of plant origin. The counterion to the cationic charge is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example, halide, methosulfate, phosphate, citrate, tartrate, etc. Preferably, the counterion is a halide, such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or methosulfate. Most preferably, the anion is chloride.

Particularly preferred examples of the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds having the INCI names Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-78, Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium-80, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82. Most preferred are the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides designated Polyquaternium-77, Polyquaternium-81 and Polyquaternium-82.

Such compounds can be obtained, for example, under the name Poly ^Suga® Quat from the company Colonial Chemical Inc.

The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight and highest preferably used in amounts of from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition. Of course, it is also included in the invention that more mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides can be used. In this case, preference is given to using one long-chain and one short-chain cationic alkyl oligoglucoside at the same time.

Another preferred cationic polymer may be obtained based on ethanolamine. The polymer is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-71.

This polymer can be obtained, for example, under the name ^Cola® Moist 300 P from Colonial Chemical Inc.

The polyquaternium-71 is used in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-% and most preferably used in amounts of from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, it is particularly preferable to use a cationic alkyl oligoglucoside as shown in the following figure.

In the above formula, the radical R 2 is a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R is a radical R selected from: lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, Behenyl or arachidyl. The radical R 1 is a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkyl radical, a linear or branched C 6 to C 30 alkenyl radical, preferably the radical R 1 is a radical selected from: butyl, capryl, caprylyl, octyl, nonyl, decanyl, lauryl, myristyl, Cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl or arachidyl. More preferably R1 is selected from technical mixtures of fatty alcohol cuts from C6 / C8 fatty alcohols, C8 / C10 fatty alcohols, C10 / C12 fatty alcohols, C12 / C14 fatty alcohols, C12 / C18 fatty alcohols, and most preferred are those technical Fatty alcohol cuts of plant origin. The subscript n represents a number between 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 10, more preferably between 1 and 5 and most preferably between 1 and 3. The counterion to the cationic charge, A ^- , is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halide, methosulfate , Phosphate, citrate, tartrate, etc. Preferably, the counterion is a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or methosulfate. Most preferably, the anion is chloride.

Particularly preferred examples of the cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are the compounds having the INCI names laurdimonium hydroxypropyl decylglucosides chlorides, laurdimonium hydroxypropyl lauryl glucosides chlorides, stearyl dimonium hydroxypropyl decyl glucosides chlorides, stearyl dimonium hydroxypropyl lauryl glucosides chlorides, stearyl dimonium hydroxypropyl lauryl glucosides chlorides or cocoglucosides hydroxypropyl trimonium chlorides.

Such compounds can be obtained, for example, under the name ^Suga® Quat from the company Colonial Chemical Inc.

The cationic alkyl oligoglucosides are used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight and highest preferably used in amounts of from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition. Of course, it is also included in the invention that more mixtures of cationic alkyl oligoglucosides can be used. In this case, preference is given to using one long-chain and one short-chain cationic alkyl oligoglucoside at the same time.

A particularly preferred cationic polymer of the invention is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which, for example, under the trade name Aqua style ^® 300 marketed (28-32 wt .-% of active substance in ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000) by the company ISP.

• – kationisierter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^® 100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^® 550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-7,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550 und der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-16 sowie FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternisiertes Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat, zum Beispiel Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylatmethosulfat Copolymer, das unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Gafquat^® 755 N und Gafquat^® 734 von der Firma Gaf Co., USA vertrieben wird und die INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-11,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,
• – sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 und Polyquaternium-27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylcaprolactam-Acrylat-Terpolymere, wie sie mit Acrylsäureestern und Acrylsäureamiden als dritter Monomerbaustein im Handel beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Aquaflex^® SF 40 angeboten werden.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers having the INCI name Polyquaternium-7,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and the INCI name Polyquaternium-11,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
• And the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 and Polyquaternium-27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,
• - Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as a third monomer building commercially available, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

• (i) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Mono1), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R²R³R⁴ A^(–) (Mono1) in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist,
• (ii) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Mono2),
  
  worin R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere für eine Methylgruppe und A^– das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist,
• (iii) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (Mono3), R⁸-CH=CR⁹-COOH (Mono3) in denen R⁸ und R⁹ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Amphoteric polymers according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:

• (i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 1), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ^(-) (Mono 1) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and the anion is an organic or inorganic acid,
• (ii) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (mono 2),
  
  wherein R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and A ^{- is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
• (iii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3), R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (mono 3) in which R ⁸ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

Particularly preferred are those polymers employing monomers of type (i) wherein R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) with the monomer (Mono3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (Mono2) and (Mono3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ^® 280 (Nalco).

• (iv) monomere Carbonsäureamide der allgemeinen Formel (Mono4),
  
  in denen R¹⁰ und R¹¹ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind und R¹² für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (C₁- bis C₈)-Alkylgruppe steht, enthalten.

In addition, the amphoteric polymers according to the invention in addition to a monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) and a monomer (Mono3) additionally a monomer (Mono4)

• (iv) monomeric carboxylic acid amides of the general formula (mono 4),
  
  in which R ¹⁰ and R ¹¹ independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R ^{12 is} a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ - to C ₈ ) -alkyl group.

Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ^® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).

The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.

The abovementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any desired combinations with each other, amounts of between 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably, amounts of from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-% are included. The best of all Results are obtained with amounts of 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the respective agent.

Ingredient b), a fragrance, is the second essential component of the present invention. The definition of a fragrance within the meaning of the present application is in accordance with the expert definition, as they RÖMPP Chemie Lexikon, as of December 2007 , can be taken. Thereafter, a fragrance is a chemical compound with smell and / or taste that excites the hair cell receptors (adequate stimulus). The necessary physical and chemical properties are a low molecular weight of at most 300 g / mol, a high vapor pressure, minimal water and high lipid solubility and weak polarity and the presence of at least one osmophoric group in the molecule. In order to delineate volatile, low molecular weight substances which are usually and also not regarded as perfuming agents, but primarily as solvents, such as, for example, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and acetone, odorants according to the invention, fragrances according to the invention have a molecular weight of 74 to 300 g / mol, contain at least one osmophoric group in the molecule and have a smell and / or taste, that is, they excite the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system. A fragrance in the sense of the present invention can be a singular substance but also an extract or essential oil or a resin or a resinoid. According to this definition "fragrances" can also be used in the context of the invention, several fragrances. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fragrances" does not include perfumes and / or perfume compositions or fragrance compositions with fragrance components composed of different sources. An example should clarify the complex facts. Star anise oil is a fragrance within the meaning of the present invention, although this oil consists of 15 individual components. Star aniseed oil is obtained by steam distillation. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fragrance" does not include the so-called "notes". By "notes", the perfumer understands blends of various individual discrete ingredients to a particular fragrance body, such as rosebuds. Furthermore, the term "fragrances" in the sense of this invention does not include substances which, on the one hand, cause odor, but on the other hand, are usually also used for other purposes in cosmetic compositions. These are in addition to the compounds already mentioned ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and acetone in particular phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol. Phenoxyethanol is commonly used for its preservative effect. Benzyl alcohol is commonly used as a solvent.

As fragrances can be used, for example, all in the book "The Cosmetic Preparations, 4th Edition, Volume I, The Perfumery, Publishing House for Chemical Industry, H. Ziolkowsky KG, Augsburg, G. a. Nowak, Chapter I and Chapter II, listed fragrances.

A fragrance can itself already cause an emotion. Such fragrances may be preferred for the purposes of the present invention. Particular preference may be given to fragrances which cause a pleasant and positive mood.

A fragrance according to the invention may for example be a synthetic product of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate (DMBCA), phenylethylacetate, benzylacetate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, benzylsalicylate, cyclohexylsalicylate, floramate, melusate and jasmecyclate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane, to the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals with 8-18 C-atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxy-acetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. The alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol; the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes such as limonene and pinene.

The fragrances may also contain natural fragrances, as they are available from plant sources, eg. Pine, citrus, jasmine, patchouly, rose or ylang-ylang oil. Also suitable are Muskateller sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil and labdanum oil and orange blossom oil, neroliol, orange peel oil and sandalwood oil.

Adhesive-resistant fragrances which are advantageously usable in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, arnica blossom oil, basil oil, Bayöl, Champacablütenöl, Edeltannenöl, Edeltannenzapfenöl, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce alder oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, ginger grass oil, guaiac wood oil , Gurjun Balm Oil, Helichrysum Oil, Ho Oil, Ginger Oil, Iris Oil, Cajuput oil, Calamus oil, Camomile oil, Camphor oil, Kanaga oil, Cardamom oil, Cassia oil, Pine needle oil, Kopaïva balsam oil, Coriander oil, Spearmint oil, Cumin oil, Cumin oil, Lemongrass oil, Musk grain oil, Myrrh oil, Clove oil, Neroli oil, Niaouli oil, Olibanum oil, Origanum oil, Palmarosa oil, Patchouli oil, Peruvian balsam oil, Petitgrain oil, Pepper oil, peppermint oil, allspice oil, pine oil, rose oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, celery oil, star anise oil, thuja oil, thyme oil, verbena oil, vetiver oil, juniper berry oil, wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon oil and cypress oil.

But also the higher-boiling or solid fragrances of natural or synthetic origin can be used in the context of the present invention advantageously as adherent fragrances. These compounds include the following compounds and mixtures thereof: ambrettolide, α-amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, methyl anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, borneol, bornyl acetate, α-bromostyrene, n -Decylaldehyde, n-dodecylaldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin, heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, hydroquinone dimethyl ether, hydroxycinnamaldehyde, hydroxycinnamyl alcohol, indole, iron, isoeugenol, isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmon , Camphor, Karvakrol, Karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, coumarin, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl-n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methylacetophenone, methylchavikole, p-methylquinoline, methyl-β-naphthyl ketone, methyl-n-nonylacetaldehyde, methyl-n nonyl ketone, muskon, β-naphthol ethyl ether, β-naphthol methyl ether, nerol, nitrobenzene , n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxyacetophenone, pentadecanolide, β-phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, isoamyl salicylate, methyl salicylate, hexyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymene, thymol , γ-undelactone, vaniline, veratrum aldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, cinnamic acid, cinnamic acid ethyl ester, cinnamic acid benzyl ester. Among the more volatile fragrances which can be used advantageously in the context of the present invention, in particular the lower-boiling fragrances include natural or synthetic origin, which can be used alone or in mixtures. Examples of more readily volatile fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, lilial, linalool, linalyl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal. All of the aforementioned fragrances can be used alone or in a mixture according to the present invention with the advantages already mentioned. In particular, odoriferous substances from the group of allyl alcohol esters, esters of secondary alcohols, esters of tertiary alcohols, allylic ketones, acetals, ketals, condensation products of amines and aldehydes and / or mixtures thereof can also be used.

Examples of particularly suitable fragrances in the context of the invention are bergamot oil, coriander oil, damascenia, ginger oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, rosemary oil, peppermint oil, tamarin, geraniol, geranium oil, eugenol, tangerine and orange oil, anise, jasmine, isoeugenol, menthol, coumarin, melonal , Terpineol, vanillin, ylang-ylang oil, cinnamyl alcohol, methylionone, ethyl vanillin, ethyl 2,6,6-trimethylcyclohexadiene decarboxylate, methyl 2-nonenoate, butanedione, limonene, lilial, linalool, linalyl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl -n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal and citronellol and mixtures thereof.

Most preferred is the use of citral, citronellal and citronellol, orange oil, patchouli oil, geraniol, geranium oil, eugenol, tangerine and orange oil, limonene, lilial, linalool and linalyl acetate and mixtures thereof.

At least one fragrance in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is present in a total amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, most preferably 0.3 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.

Ingredient c) is an amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant. This class of surfactants is commonly used in cleansing cosmetic compositions as a mild cosurfactant. In agents such as hair treatments, these surfactants are not commonly used. An exception are haircare foams, in which this class of surfactants can serve as an aid for foaming the compositions. In the compositions according to the invention, these ingredients possibly contribute significantly to improving the adhesion of the fragrances to the keratinic fiber.

Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or Acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12-C18 acylsarcosine. A particularly preferred compound is Coco Betaine.

These ingredients are used in amounts of from 0.01% to 8.0% by weight, based on the total composition of the composition. Amounts of 0.05 to 7.0 wt .-% are preferred. Particularly preferred are amounts of 0.1 to 6.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.3 to 3.0 wt .-%.

in welcher die Reste R1, R2 und R3 unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl, iso-Propyl, Hydroxy, Methoxy oder Ethoxygruppe, x, y und z stehen für jeweils für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 1000, n und m stehen unabhängig voneinander jeweils für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 100. Bevorzugt stehen die Reste R1 unabhängig voneinander für Methyl, Hydroxy oder Methoxy, besonders bevorzugt für Methyl. Bevorzugt stehen die Reste R2 und R3 unabhängig voneinander für Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl oder iso-Propyl, besonders bevorzugt für Methyl. Bevorzugt stehen x, y und z jeweils unabhängig voneinander für eine ganze Zahl 1 bis 500 und besonders bevorzugt von 1 bis 200. Bevorzugt stehen n und m unabhängig voneinander für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 50. Besonders bevorzugt steht m für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20, höchst bevorzugt von 1 bis 15, und insbesondere für die Zahlen 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Besonders bevorzugt steht n für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20, höchst bevorzugt für 1 bis 10 und insbesondere für eine Zahl 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. A steht für eine Gruppe ausgewählt aus -CH2CH2-, -CH2CH2CH2- oder -CH2CH2CH2CH2- oder Mischungen dieser Gruppen, bevorzugt ausgewählt aus -CH2CH2-, -CH2CH2CH2- und deren Mischungen, höchst bevorzugt -CH2CH2-.The fourth obligatory component d) of the active substance complex is a sugar-containing silicone of the following formula:

in which the radicals R 1, R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, hydroxy, methoxy or ethoxy group, x, y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 1000, n and m are each independently an integer from 1 to 100. Preferably, the radicals R1 independently of one another are methyl, hydroxy or methoxy, particularly preferably methyl. Preferably, the radicals R2 and R3 independently of one another are methyl, ethyl, propyl or isopropyl, particularly preferably methyl. Preferably, x, y and z are each independently an integer from 1 to 500, and more preferably from 1 to 200. Preferably, n and m are independently integers from 1 to 50. More preferably, m is an integer of 1 to 20, most preferably from 1 to 15, and especially for the numbers 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15. More preferably, n is an integer Number from 1 to 20, most preferably from 1 to 10 and especially from 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. A is a group selected from -CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - or mixtures of these groups, preferably selected from -CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - and mixtures thereof, most preferably -CH 2 CH 2 -.

in welcher R3 die wie zuvor beschriebene Bedeutung hat und höchst bevorzugt für Methyl steht, x, y und z sowie n und m die bereits zuvor beschriebene Bedeutung haben.A most preferred silicone of the formula described above corresponds to the formula shown below:

in which R 3 has the meaning as described above and most preferably represents methyl, x, y and z and n and m have the meaning already described above.

Such products are commercially available under the trade name PolySuga Sil from the company Colonial. A particularly preferred aminosilicone is available under the tradenames Poly Suga Sil ^® C-35P and / or poly Suga Sil ^® C-800P.

These sugar-containing silicone polymers are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 5% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % contain. The very best results are contained in amounts of 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the respective agent.

Of the large number of possible compositions described above, it has been found that compositions containing at least one ingredient each of the respective groups a) to d) have proven particularly suitable.

Preferred ingredients of group a) are stearamidopropyldimethylamines and / or distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dicocoyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chlorides and / or quaternium-27 and / or quaternium-91 and / or behenoyl PG-trimonium chlorides. Most preferably, it is further preferred to select at least two, more preferably at least three ingredients of this group. In these mixtures, it is most preferred for one of the two or three compounds to be stearamidopropyldimethylamine. It is most preferable if cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or behenyltrimethylammonium chloride is further added as an optional cationic ammonium compound. However, the best results are achieved in particular with the last mentioned compositions comprising: stearamidopropyldimethylamine and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dicocoyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chlorides and / or quaternium-27 and / or quaternium-91 and / or behenoyl PG- Trimonium chlorides and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or behenyltrimethylammonium chloride furthermore comprise one of the cationic polymers mentioned in claim 1, in particular poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and / or; quaternized cellulose derivatives, especially Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, and / or Polyquaternium-74. Here, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-72 and polyquaternium-74 are most preferred.

The most preferred ingredients of group b) are bergamot oil, coriander oil, damascenia, ginger oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, rosemary oil, peppermint oil, tamarin, geraniol, geranium oil, eugenol, tangerine and orange oil, anise, jasmine, isoeugenol, menthol, coumarin, melonal, terpineol , Vanillin, ylang-ylang oil, cinnamyl alcohol, methylionone, ethyl vanillin, ethyl 2,6,6-trimethylcyclohexadiene carboxylate, methyl 2-nonenoate, butanedione, limonene, lilial, linalool, linalyl acetate and propionate, menthone, methyl-n-hep -tenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal and citronellol and mixtures thereof.

As ingredient c) it is most preferable to use coamidopropyl betaine and / or coco betaine. The most preferred ingredient d) is the PEG-8 PG-coco-glucoside dimethicone.

• a) Stearamidopropyldimethylamin und Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und/oder Dicocoyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und/oder Dipalmitoylethyl Dimoniumchloride und Quaternium-27 und/oder Quaternium-91 und/oder Behenoyl PG-Trimoniumchloride und Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid oder Behenyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und weiterhin Poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumverbindungen) und/oder Polyquaternium-67 und/oder Polyquaternium-72 und/oder Polyquaternium-74,
• b) Ein Riechstoff ausgewählt aus Gingeröl, Orangenöl, Patchouiliöl, Pfefferminzöl, Geraniol, Geranienöl, Eugenol, Mandarinen- und Orangenöl, Anis, Jasmin, Isoeugenol, Coumarin, Melonal, Vanillin, Zimtalkohol, Ethylvanillin, Butandion, Limonen, Lilial, Linalool, Citral, Citronellal und Citronellol sowie deren Mischungen,
• c) Coamidopropylbetain und/oder Coco Betaine,
• d) PEG-8 PG-Coco-Glucoside Dimethicone.

Thus, the most preferred compositions according to the invention are those which are composed as follows:

• a) stearamidopropyldimethylamine and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dicocoyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chlorides and quaternium-27 and / or quaternium-91 and / or behenoyl PG-trimonium chlorides and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and also poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and / or polyquaternium 67 and / or Polyquaternium-72 and / or Polyquaternium-74,
• b) A fragrance selected from ginger oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, peppermint oil, geraniol, geranium oil, eugenol, tangerine and orange oil, anise, jasmine, isoeugenol, coumarin, melonal, vanillin, cinnamyl alcohol, ethylvanillin, butanedione, limonene, lilial, linalool, citral , Citronellal and citronellol and mixtures thereof,
• c) coamidopropyl betaine and / or coco betaine,
• d) PEG-8 PG-coco-glucoside dimethicone.

For this highly preferred backbone of ingredients, all ingredients customary in cosmetic compositions can furthermore be added. The selection of these ingredients generally depends on the intended use of the hair treatment agents. In addition to the compulsory silicones described above, the compositions according to the invention may contain further silicones. These optional silicones are preferably at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones.

The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Si1): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (Si ¹ )

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Si1.1):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps. As an example, reference is made to the product "Dow Corning 200 with 60000 cSt".

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si1.2) (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si 1.2), in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

The dimethicones (Si1) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0 , 1 to 5 wt .-% based on the total composition. Finally, among the Silicone compounds understood dimethiconols (Si8). The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (Si 8 -I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Coming 1401 Fluid, Dow Coming 1403 Fluid Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all four aforementioned GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above). The dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0 , 1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethiconol based on the composition.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may, for. By the formula (Si-2) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} ) _x (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} ) _y M (Si-2)

Be described, taking in the above formula
R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms,
Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ,
wherein
R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and
Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group;
a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2,
b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,
a + b is less than or equal to 3, and
c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and
x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and
M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.
Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for said Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0. Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

In the formula (Si-2), α assumes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. Suitable for the purposes of the invention are cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Dow Corning (DC) 929 emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-7113, SM-2059 (General Electric) and SLM-55067 (Wacker).

enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).

enthalten, worin
R für -OH, eine (gegebenenfalls ethoxylierte und/oder propoxylierte) (C₁ bis C₂₀)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht,
R1 für -OH, eine (C₁ bis C₂₀)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe und
m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)

contain, in which
R is -OH, an (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group,
R _{1 represents} -OH, a (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group and
m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example when Commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant). Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general formula (Si3c) [R ¹ R ² R ³ N ⁺ -A-SiR ⁷ R ⁸ - (O-SiR ⁹ R ¹⁰ ) _n -O-SiR ¹¹ R ¹² -AN ⁺ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ ] 2X ^- (Si 3c) where the radicals R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are C 1 to C 22 -alkyl radicals which may contain hydroxyl groups and where preferably at least one of the radicals has at least 8 C atoms and the remaining radicals have 1 to 4 C atoms, the radicals R 7 to R 12 are independently of one another the same or different and are C 1 - to C 10 -alkyl or phenyl, A is a divalent organic compound group,
n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, more preferably from 10 to 40, and X ^{- is} an anion.

The divalent linking group is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene or alkoxyalkylene group which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Particularly preferred is the group - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -O-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -.

The anion X ^- can be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate or a compound of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , in which R has the meaning of C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radicals. A preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d) [RN ⁺ Me ₂ -A- (SiMe ₂ O) _n -SiMe ₂ -AN ⁺ Me ₂ R] 2CH ₃ COO ^- (Si 3d), where A is the group - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -O-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -,
R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 120.

Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known under the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal trialkylammonium groups. Such diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes are marketed by Evonik under the trade names Abil ^® Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474th According to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they, based on their weight, 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 5 wt .-% amino-functional silicone (s) and / or diquaternary silicone.

Further cationic silicone compounds having at least three terminal amino-functional groups can also be used according to the invention. These cationic silicone polymers are characterized in that they have a silicone backbone and optionally a polyether part and furthermore at least one part with an ammonium structure. Examples of the preferred cationic silicone polymers for the purposes of the present invention are in particular the compounds with the INCI names: Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6 Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-11, Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium-18 , Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21, Silicone Quaternium-22 as well as Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate and Silicone Quaternium-16 / Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Most preferred is Silicone Quaternium-22. This raw material is sold, for example, by the company Evonik under the trade name Abil ^® Quat T-60th

in welcher R1 steht für eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, Hydroxy-, Methoxy- oder Ethoxygruppe, R2, steht für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten C8 bis C24 Alkyl- oder Alkylenrest, vorzugsweise einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten C9 bis C22 Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest, besonders bevorzugt einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten C11 bis C18 Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest, höchst bevorzugt einen entsprechenden Alkylrest,
n und m jeweils für ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 1000 stehen und
q steht jeweils für eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 50, bevorzugt 4 bis 30, besonders bevorzugt 4 bis 18 und höchst bevorzugt von 4 bis 12.Another preferred cationic aminosilicone corresponds to the following formula:

in which R 1 is a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyl, methoxy or ethoxy group, R 2 is a straight-chain or branched C 8 to C 24 alkyl or alkylene radical, preferably a straight-chain or branched C 9 to C 22 alkyl or alkenyl radical preferably a straight-chain or branched C 11 to C 18 alkyl or alkenyl radical, most preferably a corresponding alkyl radical,
n and m are each integers from 1 to 1000 and
Each q is an integer from 2 to 50, preferably 4 to 30, more preferably 4 to 18 and most preferably from 4 to 12.

The molecular weight of such compounds is 15,000 to 2,000,000, as measured on a Brookfield RV rotary viscometer, spindle 5, at 20 ° C. Preferably, the molecular weight is 30,000 to 1,750,000, and more preferably 50,000 to 1,500,000. The nitrogen content of the silicones of the invention is 0.03 to 4.2 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 2.8 wt .-% and most preferably 0.16 to 1.4 wt .-%. Amino-functional cationic silicones of the above formula according to the invention can be obtained, for example, from Clariant. A highly preferred product of the invention is commercially available under the INCI name Trideceth-9-Amodimethicone and Trideceth-12.

in der
A für eine über ein -O- gebundene Struktureinheit (I), (II) oder (III)

oder einen über ein -O- gebundenen oligomeren oder polymeren Rest enthaltend Struktureinheiten der Formeln (I), (II) oder (III) oder die Hälfte eines verbindenden O-Atoms zu einer Struktureinheit (III) oder für -OH steht,
* für eine Bindung zu einer der Struktureinheiten (I), (II) oder (III) oder für eine Endgruppe B (Si-gebunden) oder D (O-gebunden) steht,
B für eine Gruppe -OH, -O-Si(CH₃)₃, -O-Si(CH₃)₂OH, -O-Si(CH₃)₂OCH₃ steht,
D für eine Gruppe -H, -Si(CH₃)₃, -Si(CH₃)₂OH, -Si(CH₃)₂OCH₃ steht,
a, b und c für ganze Zahlen zwischen 0 und 1000 stehen, mit der Maßgabe a + b + c > 0
m, n und o für ganze Zahlen zwischen 1 und 1000 stehen.Another particularly preferred amino-functional silicone is at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (V)

in the
A for a structural unit (I), (II) or (III) bonded via an -O-

or an oligomeric or polymeric radical comprising structural units of the formulas (I), (II) or (III) or one half of a connecting O atom linked to an O-unit or to -OH,
* stands for a bond to one of the structural units (I), (II) or (III) or for an end group B (Si-bonded) or D (O-bonded),
B represents a group -OH, -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH, -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ ,
D is a group -H, -Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OH, -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ OCH ₃ ,
a, b and c are integers between 0 and 1000, with the proviso that a + b + c> 0
m, n and o stand for integers between 1 and 1000.

Such amino-functional silicones bear the INCI name amodimethicone / morpholinomethyl silsesquioxane copolymer. A particularly suitable amodimethicone is the product with the trade name Wacker Belsil® ^® ADM 8301E. According to the invention it may be particularly advantageous if only the aforementioned silicones are used as silicones.

These last-mentioned cationic amino-functional silicone polymers are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 5% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight. -% contain. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

Another silicone compound of the invention having amino functions are polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds may be obtained for example under the trade name Baysilone® ^® GE Bayer Silicones. The products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are very particularly preferred in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight each based on the total composition.

enthalten, in der x für eine Zahl von 3 bis 200, vorzugsweise von 3 bis 10, weiter bevorzugt von 3 bis 7 und insbesondere 3, 4, 5 oder 6, steht.The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5) R ₃ Si [O-SiR ₂ ] _x - (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR ₃ (Si-5), in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, stand and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

As further silicones in addition to the dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones and / or cyclomethicones according to the invention, water-soluble silicones may be present in the compositions according to the invention.

Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7). Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.

worin der Rest R steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen, eine Alkoxygruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen oder eine Hydroxylgruppe, die Reste R' und R'' bedeuten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen, x steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 100, bevorzugt von 20 bis 30, y steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20, bevorzugt von 2 bis 10 und a und b stehen für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 50, bevorzugt von 10 bis 30. Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):

in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group, the radicals R 'and R "are alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms, x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30th

Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade names SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING. Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.

The dimethicone copolyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition. Ester oils may be present with particular preference as an oil body in the combination of active substances according to the invention. The ester oils are defined as follows:
Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures. Examples of fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V). Of course, the ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. The alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils. However, preference is given according to the invention if the fatty alcohol was first alkoxylated and then esterified with fatty acid. In the formula (D4-II), these compounds are generally shown.

R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide,
X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,
R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, elaeostearic, arachidic, gadoleic, , Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol moieties R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol , Arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. A particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.

• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, sowie
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, das sind Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

Furthermore, ester oils are to be understood as meaning:

• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, and the like
• - symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The ester oils are highly preferred in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight from 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-% used. Of course, it is also possible according to the invention to use several ester oils at the same time.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.

Further oil bodies according to the invention are:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

As natural oils, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil , Evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil. Of course, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention also contain, in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention, further constituents customary in cosmetic compositions. The selection of these ingredients generally depends on the intended one Use of hair treatment products. In the case of a shampoo, for example, further surface-active substances will be contained. In the case of hair treatments, further cationic compounds and other care substances may be present. In many cases, the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle. The choice of surfactants depends on the nature of the agent.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist und deren Salze,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen.
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Hydroxysulfonate im wesentlichen entsprechend mindestens einer der beiden folgenden Formeln oder deren deren Mischungen sowie deren salzen, CH₃-(CH₂)_y-CHOH-(CH₂)p-(CH-SO₃M)-(CH₂)_z-CH₂-O-(C_nH_2nO)_x-H, und/oder CH₃-(CH₂)_y-(CH-SO₃M)-(CH₂)_p-CHOH-(CH₂)_z-CH₂-O-(C_nH_2nO)_x-H wobei in beiden Formeln y und z = 0 oder ganze Zahlen von 1 bis 18, p = 0, 1 oder 2 und die Summe (y + z + p) eine Zahl von 12 bis 18, x = 0 oder eine Zahl von 1 bis 30 und n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 4 sowie M = H oder Alkali-, insbesondere Natrium, Kalium, Lithium, Erdalkali-, insbesondere Magnesium, Calcium, Zink und/oder einem Ammoniumion, welches gegebenenfalls substituiert sein kann, insbesondere Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Tetraammoniumionen mit C1 bis C4 Alkyl-, Alkenyl- oder Arylresten,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether der Formel R¹-(CHOSO₃M)-CHR³-(OCHR⁴-CH₂)n-OR² mit R¹, einem linearen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 C-Atomen, R² für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 C-Atomen, R³ für Wasserstoff oder einen linearen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 24 C-Atomen, R⁴ für Wasserstoff oder einen Methylrest und M für Wasserstoff, Ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium, worin die Alkyl- und Alkanolreste je 1 bis 4 C-Atome aufweisen, oder ein Metallatom ausgewählt aus Lithium, Natrium, Kalium, Calcium oder Magnesium und n für eine Zahl im Bereich von 0 bis 12 stehen und weiterhin die Gesamtzahl der in R¹ und R³ enthaltenen C-Atome 2 bis 44 beträgt,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel, R¹(OCH₂CH₂)_n-O-(PO-OX)-OR², in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR² oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel RCO(AlkO)_nSO₃M in der RCO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Metall steht, wie Alkalimetall, insbesondere Natrium, Kalium, Lithium, Erdalkalimetall, insbesondere Magnesium, Calcium, Zink, oder Ammoniumion, wie ⁺NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C4-Kohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel R⁸OC-(OCH₂CH₂)_x-OCH₂-[CHO(CH₂CH₂O)_yH]-CH₂O(CH₂CH₂O)_z-SO₃X, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren, R¹-CO-NR²-CH₂CH₂-O-(CH₂CH₂O)_nCH₂COOM, mit R¹ als geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit einer Zahl an Kohlenstoffatomen in der Kette von 2 bis 30, n steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20 und R² steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, t-Butyl- oder iso-Butylrest und M steht für Wasserstoff oder ein Metall wie Alkalimetall, insbesondere Natrium, Kalium, Lithium, Erdalkalimetall, insbesondere Magnesium, Calcium, Zink, oder ein Ammoniumion, wie ⁺NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C4-Kohlenwasserstoffrest. Derartige Produkte sind beispielsweise von der Firma Chem-Y unter der Produktbezeichnung Akypo^® erhältlich.
• – Acylglutamate der Formel XOOC-CH2CH2CH(C(NH)OR)-COOX, in der RCO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und 0 und/oder 1, 2 oder 3 Doppelbindungen und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- und/oder Erdalkalimetall, Ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium oder Glucammonium steht,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus einem wasserlöslichen Salz eines wasserlöslichen Eiweißhydrolysats mit einer C8-C30-Fettsäure. Solche Produkte sind unter dem Warenzeichen Lamepon^®, Maypon^®, Gluadin^®, Hostapon^® KCG oder Amisoft^® seit langem im Handel erhältlich.
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyl-Oligoglykosidcarboxylate, -sulfate, -phosphate und/oder -isethionate,
• – Acyllactylate und
• – Hydroxymischethersulfate.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are:

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and salts thereof,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Hydroxysulfonates essentially corresponding to at least one of the following two formulas or their mixtures and their salts, CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) p- (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _z - CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H, and / or CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _p -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _z - CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where in both formulas y and z = 0 or integers from 1 to 18, p = 0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y + z + p) one Number of 12 to 18, x = 0 or a number from 1 to 30 and n is an integer from 2 to 4 and M = H or alkali, especially sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth, especially magnesium, calcium, zinc and or an ammonium ion, which may optionally be substituted, in particular mono-, di-, tri- or tetraammonium ions with C1 to C4 alkyl, alkenyl or aryl radicals,
• - Sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether of the formula R ¹ - (CHOSO ₃ M) -CHR ³ - (OCHR ⁴ -CH ₂ ) n-OR ² with R ¹ , a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, R ² for a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{3 is} hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{4 is} hydrogen or a methyl radical and M is hydrogen, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, wherein the alkyl and alkanol radicals each have 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium and n is a number in the range of 0 to 12 and further the total number of in R ¹ and R ³ contains C atoms 2 to 44,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• - Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether of the formula, R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² , in which R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen , a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently each other represents hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,
• - Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RCO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M in the RCO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a metal such as alkali metal, especially sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, especially magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical,
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula R ⁸ OC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OCH ₂ - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of theirs Sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - Amidethercarbonsäuren, R ¹ -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n CH ₂ COOM, with R ¹ as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R ² is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ^®.
• Acylglutamates of the formula XOOC-CH 2 CH 2 CH (C (NH) OR) -COOX in which RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium,
• - Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a C8-C30 fatty acid. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® long been commercially.
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates,
• Acyl lactylates and
• - Hydroxymix ether sulfates.

If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Further, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferable that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether groups with no restricted homolog distribution can be obtained, for example on the one hand the number of polyglycol ether groups is 4 to 12 and Zn or Mg ions are selected as the counterion. One example is the commercial product Texapon.RTM ^® ASV.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettalkoholpolyglykolether bzw. die Fettalkoholpolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettalkoholpolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettsäurepolyglykolether bzw. die Fettsäurepolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettsäurepolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, die Alkylphenolpolyglykolether bzw. die Alkylpolypropylenglykolether, bzw. gemischte Alyklphenolpolyether,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C2-C6-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol^®-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (Tnio-1) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (Tnio-1) in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, R¹O[CH₂CH(CH₃)O]_x(CH₂CHR²O)_y[CH₂CH(OH)R³]_z mit R¹ stehend für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenylrest mit 2 bis 30 C-Atomen, R² stehend für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl- oder iso-Propylrest, R³ stehend für einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkylrest mit 2 bis 30 C-Atomen, x stehend für 0 oder eine Zahl von 1 bis 20, Y für eine Zahl von 1 bis 30 und z stehend für die Zahl 1, 2, 3, 4 oder 5.
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide,
• – Fettsäureamidpolyglycolether, Fettaminpolyglycolether,
• – Mischether bzw. Mischformale und Polysorbate.

Nonionic surfactants are for example

• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the fatty acid polyethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, the alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or the alkylpolypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed alkylpolyolpolyethers,
• - With a methyl or C2-C6-alkyl radical endgruppenverschlossene addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® grades (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (Tnio-1) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (Tnio-1) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - Hydroxymischether, R ¹ O [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _x (CH ₂ CHR ² O) _y [CH ₂ CH (OH) R ³ ] _z with R ^{1 is} a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl - and / or alkenyl radical having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or iso-propyl radical, R ^{3 is} a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms, x is 0 or a number from 1 to 20, Y is a number from 1 to 30 and z is the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• - sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type,
• Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type,
• Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers,
• - Mischether or mixed formals and polysorbates.

Cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat1-1) can additionally be used.

In the formula (Tkat1), R1, R2, R3 and R4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally with one or more hydroxy groups may be substituted. A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.

Examples of compounds of formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.

The surfactants are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total composition used according to the invention ,

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Pro pylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^® 68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine, sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine, Cholesterin, Lanosterin) wie aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine, Ergosterin, Stigmasterin, Sitosterin) oder aus Pilzen und Hefen (Mykosterine),
• – Phospholipide (Lecithine, Phopshatidylcholine),
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH).

Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• - Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles per propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols, both from animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol, lanosterol) and from plant fats (phytosterols, ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols),
• - phospholipids (lecithins, phopshatidylcholines),
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH).

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

With particular preference the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (fat) as further active ingredient. Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. As fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1-15 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Preferably, the amount is 0.5-10 wt .-%, with very particularly advantageous amounts of 1-5 wt .-% may be.

As fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , z. B. Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^®, z. B. Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, z. B. Lorol® ^® C8, Lorol® ^® C14, C18 Lorol® ^{®, ®} Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^®, z. B. Crodacol CS ^{®, ®} Novol, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%.

The natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt .-% based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1-15 wt .-% based on the total agent.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the inventive compositions is usually 0.5-75 wt .-%, based on the total mean. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soybean, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), Hudrosesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda), Crotein ^® (Croda) and Puricare ^® LS 9658 from the Laboratoires Sérobiologiques available.

Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates. Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms , for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates, may originate. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) mentioned and commercially available products called.

The protein hydrolysates are present in the compositions at levels of from 0.001% to 20%, preferably from 0.05% to 15% and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight. -% up to 5 wt .-% included.

The protein hydrolysates are near and, in some cases, superior in effect to amino acids and / or oligopetids. Therefore, according to the invention, amino acids and / or oligopeptides are preferably used as further ingredients. In the present application, the term amino acid is also understood as meaning a structure which contains only one permanent cationic group in the molecule, such as, for example, choline. Furthermore, this term is understood to mean substances such as carnitine or taurine, since, like the amino acids, they naturally occur in biological systems and in many cases behave like amino acids.

Amino acids of the invention are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, citrulline, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan , Tyrosine, acetyltyrosine, valine, betaine, ornithine, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin (Nα, Nα, Nα -trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), ergothioneine (thionein, 2-mercapto-Nα, Nα, Nα- trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), carnitine, taurine and choline, and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, it is possible to use all types of isomers, for example diastereomers, enantiomers, cis-trans isomers, optical isomers, conformational isomers and racemates.

Of particular preference are alanine, arginine, asparagine, citrulline, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine, betaine, ornithine, acetyltyrosine, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, carnitine, Taurine, choline and mixtures used.

Arginine, citrulline, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, proline, serine, betaine, ornithine, carnitine, taurine, acetyltyrosine and mixtures thereof are very particularly preferably used. Arginine, citrulline, glutamine, histidine, lysine, acetyl tyrosine, ornithine, carnitine and taurine and mixtures thereof are most preferably used.

Arginine, citrulline, glutamine, acetyltyrosine, ornithine, carnitine and taurine as well as the mixtures of arginine and taurine, glutamine and taurine, glutamine and carnitine, arginine and glutamine, carnitine and taurine, as well as the mixtures of arginine, carnitine and taurine, are most preferred. Glutamine, carnitine and taurine and arginine, acetyltyrosine, ornithine and citrulline.

Oligopeptides in the sense of the present application are acid amide-like linked by peptide bonds condensation products of amino acids comprising at least 3 and a maximum of 25 amino acids. In hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention, the oligopeptide comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, particularly preferably 7 to 12 amino acids and in particular 8, 9 or 10 amino acids.

A most preferred oligopeptide has the sequence Glu-Glu-Glu. Depending on whether further amino acids are bound to the sequence Glu-Glu-Glu and depending on the nature of these amino acids, the molecular weight of the oligopeptide contained in the agents of the invention may vary. Hair treatment compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide has a molecular weight of from 650 to 3000 Da, preferably from 750 to 2500 Da, particularly preferably from 850 to 2000 Da and in particular from 1000 to 1600 Da.

As can be seen from the preferred number of amino acids in the oligopeptides and the preferred molecular weight range, it is preferred to use oligopeptides which do not consist solely of the three glutamic acids but have further amino acids bound to this sequence. These other amino acids are preferably selected from certain amino acids, while certain other representatives are less preferred in the present invention. Thus, it is preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no methionine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no cysteine and / or cystine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no aspartic acid and / or asparagine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no serine and / or threonine.

In contrast, it is preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain tyrosine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain leucine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain isoleucine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain arginine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain valine. Particularly preferred oligopeptides or amino acid sequences contained in the preferred oligopeptides are described below:
A particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains tyrosine, which is preferably linked via its acid function to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence. Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu, where the amino group can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated.

Another particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains isoleucine, which is preferably linked to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence via its amino function. Hair-treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile, wherein the amino group can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated.

Oligopeptides which have both the abovementioned amino acids (tyrosine and isoleucine) are preferred according to the invention. Hair treatment agents according to the invention in which the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile are particularly preferred, the amino group being free or protonated and the carboxy groups being free or deprotonated.

Further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain arginine, which is preferably bound to isoleucine. A most preferred oligopeptide is available under the trade name ProSina ^® by the company. Croda commercially.

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain the selected amino acids and / or the selected oligopeptides as described above in a total amount - based on the total agent - in an amount of 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.0001 to 7 , 0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0 wt .-%.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention contain the vitamin A component preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include:
Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.
Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

The stated compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B ₃ , B ₅ and B ₆ , are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

A particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the betaines mentioned below: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, betalain, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and those described in the literature Betaine designated compound N, N, N-trimethylglycine.

Das Coenzym Q-10 ist hierbei am bevorzugtesten.Carnitine, histidine, choline and betaine are preferably used. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate. In a further embodiment preferred according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain biochinones. In the agents according to the invention, suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred.

Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s). Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic preparations, caffeine is most preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent contains ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid.) According to the invention, particular preference is given to agents which, based on their weight, are 0 , 00001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 to 5.0 wt .-% and in particular 0.001 to 3 wt .-% of the active ingredients from the group formed by carnitine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine , a B-series vitamin, a purine and its derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.

A particularly preferred care additive in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention is taurine. Taurine is understood to mean exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and a derivative to the explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine. Derivatives of taurine include N-monomethyltaurine, N, N-dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithithate, lysyltaurine and ornithyl taurine.

Particularly preferred are agents according to the invention, which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1.0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included. The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further enhanced by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, more preferably 0.1 to 5, and especially 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.

By using plant extracts as care substances, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be formulated in a particularly natural and yet very effective way in their care performance. Optionally, even otherwise customary preservatives can be dispensed with. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic Plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, the various varieties of millet (millet, crab, millet as examples), cane, ryegrass, wi foxtail, oat grass, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistling grass, bamboo, cotton grass, lamprey grass, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called grass or cogon grass), buffalo grass, mud grass, canine grasses, love grasses, cymbopogon (lemongrass), oryzeae (rice), zizania (wild rice) , Seagrass, perennial grasses, honey grasses, quaking grasses, bluegrasses, couch grass and Echinacea, especially Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench, all types of wine and Perikarp preferred by Litchie chinensis. The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Occasionally it may be necessary to use anionic polymers. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1.9-decadienes crosslinked maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM. The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.

• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol^® VA 64 und Luviskol^® VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere.
• – Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal^® und Benecel^® (AQUALON) und Natrosol^®-Typen (Hercules) vertrieben werden.
• – Stärke und deren Derivate, insbesondere Stärkeether, beispielsweise Structure^® XL (National Starch), eine multifunktionelle, salztolerante Stärke;
• – Schellack
• – Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
• - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules) are distributed.
• - starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
• - shellac
• - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher, z. B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester, 2-Cyano-3-phenyl-zimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octocrylene);
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-isopropylben-zylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-meth-oxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester;
• – Triazinderivate, wie z. B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin und Octyltriazon.
• – Propan-1,3-dione, wie z. B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion; Als wasserlösliche Substanzen kommen in Frage:
• – 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sul-fonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsul-fonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

As oil-soluble substances z. To name, for example:

• 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• - Triazine derivatives, such as. 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyltriazone.
• - Propane-1,3-dione, such as. B. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; Suitable water-soluble substances are:
• 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane are suitable, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, in particular finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.

• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Quellmittel wie Harnstoff, Allantoin, Carbonate oder Hydantoin,
• – Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Komplexbildnerwie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Stabilisierungsmittel für Wasserstoffperoxid und andere Oxidationsmittel,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien,
• – Parfümöle, Duftstoffe und Riechstoffe.

Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as

• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin,
• Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants,
• - Perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art. Another subject of the invention is therefore a method for hair treatment, in which a hair treatment composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and is rinsed by the hair after a contact time.

The exposure time is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 50 minutes and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.

According to the invention is also a method in which a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and remains there. By "remaining on the hair" is understood according to the invention that the agent is not rinsed out of the hair immediately after its application. Rather, the agent remains in this case more than 100 minutes until the next hair wash on the hair.

• 1. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung enthaltend in einem kosmetisch verträglichen Träger – bezogen auf das Gewicht der gesamten Zusammensetzung –
• a) mindestens eine quartäre Ammoniumverbindung in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, wobei die quatäre Ammoniumverbindung ausgewählt ist aus mindestens einer der Gruppen i. der Esterquats und/oder ii. der quarternären Imidazoline der Formel (Tkat2),
  
  in welcher die Reste R unabhängig voneinander jeweils für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht, und/oder iii. der Amine und/oder kationisierten Amine und/oder iv. Poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumverbindungen) und/oder; v. quaternisierten Cellulose-Derivaten, insbesondere Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, und/oder vi. kationischen Alkylpolyglycosiden und/oder vii. kationisertem Honig und/oder viii. kationischen Guar-Derivaten und/oder ix. Chitosan und/oder x. polymeren Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalzen und deren Copolymeren mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure, insbesondere Polyquaternium-7 und/oder xi. Copolymeren des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, insbesondere Polyquaternium-11 und/oder xii. Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymeren, insbesondere Polyquaternium-16 und/oder xiii. quaterniertem Polyvinylalkohol und/oder xiv. Polyquaternium-74, sowie deren Mischungen und
• b) 0,001 bis 5,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines Riechstoffes und
• c) 0,01Gew.-% bis 8 Gew.-% mindestens eines Tensides ausgewählt aus den zwitterionischen und/oder amphoteren Tensides und
• d) 0,01 bis 5,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines Silikones enthaltend Zuckerstrukturen der folgenden Formel,
  
  in welcher die Reste R1, R2 und R3 unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl, iso-Propyl, Hydroxy, Methoxy oder Ethoxygruppe, x, y und z stehen für jeweils für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 1000, n und m stehen unabhängig voneinander jeweils für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 100, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 bis 5,0 Gew.-%.
• 2. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung wie zuvor dargestellt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Riechstoff ausgewählt ist aus Bergamotöl, Corianderöl, Damascenia, Gingeröl, Orangenöl, Patchouiliöl, Rosmarinöl, Pfefferminzöl, Tamarin, Geraniol, Geranienöl, Eugenol, Mandarinen- und Orangenöl, Anis, Jasmin, Isoeugenol, Menthol, Coumarin, Melonal, Terpineol, Vanillin, Ylang-Ylang-Öl, Zimtalkohol, Methylionon, Ethylvanillin, Ethyl 2,6,6-trimethylcyclohexadienecarboxylate, Methyl-2-nonenoat, Butandion, Limonen, Lilial, Linalool, Linalylacetat und -propionat, Menthol, Menthon, Methyl-n-hep-tenon, Phellandren, Phenylacetaldehyd, Terpinylacetat, Citral, Citronellal und Citronellol sowie deren Mischungen.
• 3. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung wie zuvor dargestellt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass Silikon enthaltend Zuckerstrukturen PEG-8 PG-Coco-Glucoside Dimethicone ist.
• 4. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung wie zuvor dargestellt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die quatäre Ammoniumverbindung ausgewählt ist aus Stearamidopropyldimethylamine und/oder Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und/oder Dicocoyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und/oder Dipalmitoylethyl Dimoniumchloride und/oder Quaternium-27 und/oder Quaternium-91 und/oder Behenoyl PG-Trimoniumchloride.
• 5. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung wie zuvor dargestellt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das kationische Aminosilikon PEG-8 PG-Coco-Glucoside Dimethicone ist.
• 6. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung wie zuvor dargestellt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als weiteres kationisches Tensid Behentrimoniumchloride und/oder Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid verwendet wird.
• 7. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung wie zuvor dargestellt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass weiterhin mindestens ein zwitterionische und/oder amphoteres Tensid enthalten ist.
• 8. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung wie zuvor dargestellt, dass das zwitterionische und/oder amphotere Tensid ausgewählt ist aus Cocamidopropylbetain und/oder Coco Betaine.
• 9. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung wie zuvor dargestellt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zusätzlich mindestens eine Aminosäure ausgewählt aus Alanin, Arginin, Asparagin, Asparaginsäure, Cystein, Cystin, Citrullin, Glutaminsäure, Glutamin, Glycin, Histidin, Hydroxylysin, Hydroxyprolin, Isoleucin, Leucin, Lysin, Methionin, Phenylalanin, Prolin, Serin, Threonin, Thyroxin, Tryptophan, Tyrosin, Acetyltyrosin, Valin, Betain, Ornithin, 1,1-Dimethyl-Prolin, Hercynin und Ergothionein sowie deren Mischungen enthalten ist.
• 10. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung wie zuvor dargestellt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zusätzlich mindestens ein Oligopeptid umfassend mindestens 3 bis höchstens 25 Aminosäuren.
• Kosmetische Zusammensetzung wie zuvor dargestellt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zusätzlich mindestens ein Oligopeptid und enthaltend die Sequenz Glu-Glu-Glu.
• 11. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung wie zuvor dargestellt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zusätzlich mindestens ein Wirkstoff ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird von Carnitin, Taurin, Coenzym Q-10, Ectoin, einem Purin und dessen Derivaten, insbesondere Coffein, oder deren physiologisch vertretbaren Salze, sowie einem Vitamin der B-Reihe, insbesondere Panthenol, enthalten ist.
• 12. Verfahren zur Behandlung keratinischer Fasern dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass eine kosmetische Zusammensetzung wie zuvor dargestellt auf die keratinischen Fasern aufgetragen wird und nach einer Einwirkzeit von wenigen Sekunden bis hin zu 45 Minuten wieder ausgespült wird.
• 13. Verwendung einer kosmetischen Zusammensetzung wie zuvor dargestellt zur Verminderung der Bildung von Schuppen auf der Kopfhaut.

In summary, the most preferred embodiments of the present application are shown:

• 1. Cosmetic composition containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier - based on the weight of the total composition -
• a) at least one quaternary ammonium compound in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt .-%, wherein the quaternary ammonium compound is selected from at least one of the groups i. the esterquats and / or ii. the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2),
  
  in which the radicals R are each independently of the other a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or iii. the amines and / or cationized amines and / or iv. Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and / or; v. quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, and / or vi. cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or vii. cationised honey and / or viii. cationic guar derivatives and / or ix. Chitosan and / or x. polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular Polyquaternium-7 and / or xi. Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, in particular Polyquaternium-11 and / or xii. Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers, in particular Polyquaternium-16 and / or xiii. quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or xiv. Polyquaternium-74, as well as their mixtures and
• b) 0.001 to 5.0 wt .-% of at least one fragrance and
• c) from 0.01% to 8% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from the zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and
• d) 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-% of at least one silicone containing sugar structures of the following formula,
  
  in which the radicals R 1, R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, hydroxy, methoxy or ethoxy group, x, y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 1000, n and m each independently represents an integer of 1 to 100, in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt%.
• 2. Cosmetic composition as described above, characterized in that the fragrance is selected from bergamot oil, coriander oil, damascenia, ginger oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, rosemary oil, peppermint oil, tamarin, geraniol, geranium oil, eugenol, tangerine and orange oil, anise, jasmine, Isoeugenol, menthol, coumarin, melonal, terpineol, vanillin, ylang-ylang oil, cinnamyl alcohol, methylionone, ethylvanillin, ethyl 2,6,6-trimethylcyclohexadiene-carboxylate, methyl-2-nonenoate, butanedione, limonene, lilial, linalool, linalyl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal and citronellol and mixtures thereof.
• 3. Cosmetic composition as previously shown, characterized in that silicone containing sugar structures PEG-8 PG-coco-glucosides dimethicone.
• 4. Cosmetic composition as described above, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compound is selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamines and / or distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dicocoyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chlorides and / or quaternium-27 and / or quaternium-91 and / or behenoyl PG-trimonium chlorides.
• 5. Cosmetic composition as previously shown, characterized in that the cationic aminosilicone PEG-8 PG-coco-glucosides Dimethicone.
• 6. Cosmetic composition as previously shown, characterized in that as further cationic surfactant Behentrimoniumchloride and / or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride is used.
• 7. Cosmetic composition as previously shown, characterized in that further at least one zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant is included.
• 8. Cosmetic composition as previously shown, that the zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant is selected from cocamidopropyl betaine and / or coco betaine.
• 9. Cosmetic composition as described above, characterized in that additionally at least one amino acid selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, citrulline, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, Methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, acetyltyrosine, valine, betaine, ornithine, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin and ergothioneine and mixtures thereof.
• 10. Cosmetic composition as described above, characterized in that additionally at least one oligopeptide comprising at least 3 to at most 25 amino acids.
• Cosmetic composition as previously illustrated, characterized in that in addition at least one oligopeptide and containing the sequence Glu-Glu-Glu.
• 11. Cosmetic composition as described above, characterized in that additionally at least one active ingredient selected from the group formed by carnitine, taurine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a purine and its derivatives, especially caffeine, or their physiologically acceptable salts , and a vitamin of the B-series, in particular panthenol, is included.
• 12. A method for the treatment of keratinic fibers, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as described above is applied to the keratinic fibers and rinsed again after a contact time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes.
• 13. Use of a cosmetic composition as set forth above for reducing the formation of dandruff on the scalp.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.

Examples

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight. The following formulations were provided using known manufacturing processes Care spray: also applicable in foam form or as hair conditioner: K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 K7 K8 K9 K10 K11 Polymer JR 400 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Armocare VGH 70 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 stearamidopropyl 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Dimethylamine PVP / VA Copolymer 60/40 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Citronellol 0.1 - - - - - - - - - - Limonene - 0.1 - - - - - - - - - geraniol - - - - - - - - - - - lilial - - - 0.1 - - - - - - - linalool - - - - 0.3 - - - - - - Citral - - - - - 0.5 - - - - 1.0 geranium oil - - - - - - 0.5 - - - - orange oil - - - - - - - 1.0 - - 0.5 vanillin - - - - - - - - 1.5 - 0.5 cinnamic alcohol - - - - - - - - - 0.5 - panthenol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Cetrimonium chlorides 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Ceteareth-25 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 protein hydrolyzate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Dow Corning 193 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 PEG-8 PG-Coco-Glucoside Dimethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Coco betaine 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water, preservation and possibly perfume oils ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The pH of all formulations was adjusted to 2 to 6.

For application as a foam the recipe in question is either filled with a propellant in an aerosol container or discharged from a pump bottle with a corresponding pump attachment, such as Airfoamer as foam.

For use as a hair conditioner or cream, fatty alcohols such as cetylstearyl alcohol and / or ethylene glycol distearate and / or glycerol monostearate are added to the above mentioned formulations in amounts of from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight. Shampoo: S1 S2 S3 S4 S5 S6 S7 S8 S9 S10 S11 Texapon.RTM ^® N70 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 Arlypon ^® F 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Antil ^® 141 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 Polyquaternium-10 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Citronellol 1.0 - - - - - - - - - - Limonene - 1.0 - - - - - - - - - geraniol - - 1.0 - - - - - - - - lilial - - - 1.0 - - - - - - - linalool - - - - 1.0 - - - - - - Citral - - - - - 1.0 - - - - 1.5 geranium oil - - - - - 1.0 - - - - orange oil - - - - - - - 1.0 - - 1.0 vanillin - - - - - - - - 1.0 - 1.5 cinnamic alcohol - - - - - - - - - 1.0 - Cetiol ^® HE 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 panthenol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Dow ^Corning® 193 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 PEG-8 PG-Coco-Glucoside Dimethicone 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 protein hydrolyzate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cremophor ^® HRE 60 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water, preservation and possibly perfume oils ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The pH of all formulations was adjusted to 3 to 6.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited non-patent literature

• RÖMPP Chemie Lexikon, as of December 2007 [0076]
• "The Cosmetic Preparations, 4th Edition, Volume I, The Perfumery, Publishing House for Chemical Industry, H. Ziolkowsky KG, Augsburg, G. a. Nowak, Chapter I and Chapter II, [0077]
• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0157]

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier - based on the weight of the total composition - a) at least one quaternary ammonium compound in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, the quaternary ammonium compound being selected from at least one of the groups i. the esterquats and / or ii. the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2),

in which the radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or xv. the amines and / or cationized amines and / or xvi. Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and / or; xvii. quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, and / or xviii. cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or xix. cationised honey and / or xx. cationic guar derivatives and / or xxi. Chitosan and / or xxii. polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular Polyquaternium-7 and / or xxiii. Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, in particular Polyquaternium-11 and / or xxiv. Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers, in particular Polyquaternium-16 and / or xxv. quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or xxvi. Polyquaternium-74, and mixtures thereof and b) 0.001 to 5.0 wt .-% of at least one fragrance and c) 0.01 wt .-% to 8 wt .-% of at least one surfactant selected from the zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and d) 0.01 to 5.0% by weight of at least one silicone containing sugar structures of the following formula,

in which the radicals R 1, R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, hydroxy, methoxy or ethoxy group, x, y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 1000, n and m each independently represents an integer of 1 to 100, in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt%. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the fragrance is selected from bergamot oil, coriander oil, damascenia, ginger oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, rosemary oil, peppermint oil, tamarin, geraniol, geranium oil, eugenol, mandarin and orange oil, anise, jasmine, isoeugenol, Menthol, coumarin, melonal, terpineol, vanillin, ylang-ylang oil, cinnamyl alcohol, methylionone, ethyl vanillin, ethyl 2,6,6-trimethylcyclohexadiene decarboxylate, methyl 2-nonenoate, butanedione, limonene, lilial, linalool, linalyl acetate and propionate, Menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal and citronellol and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that silicone containing sugar structures is PEG-8 PG-Coco-Glucoside Dimethicone. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant is selected from Cocamidopropylbetain and / or Coco betaines. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compound is selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamines and / or distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dicocoyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chlorides and / or quaternium-27 and / or quaternium-91 and / or behenoyl PG-trimonium chlorides. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it further contains an aminosilicone selected from the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that as further cationic surfactant Behentrimoniumchloride and / or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride is used. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that in addition at least one active ingredient selected from the group consisting of carnitine, taurine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a purine and its derivatives, in particular caffeine, or physiologically acceptable salts, as well as a vitamin of the B-series, in particular panthenol, is included. Process for the treatment of keratinic fibers, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to the keratinic fibers and rinsed again after a contact time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes. Use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for the treatment of keratinic fibers.