DE102011102824A1 - Extracts from Eugenia uniflora - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of extracts of parts of plants from Eugenia uniflora for lightening the skin, and to cosmetic preparations containing these extracts and a method for producing such preparations.

Description

The present invention relates to the use of extracts of plant parts of Eugenia uniflora for lightening the skin, and to cosmetic preparations containing these extracts and to a process for the preparation of such preparations.

Skin and hair color are dependent on the content, size, distribution and type of the nitrogen-containing, dark dye melanin, which is produced in the melanocyte-capable cells (melanocytes). Starting from tyrosine and using various melanocyte-specific enzymes, such as. As tyrosinase or tyrosinase-related proteins, melanin is synthesized within the melanocytes. Subsequently, the melanin is transferred to the keratinocytes in the form of so-called melanosomes. Although the melanin in the skin is a suitable protection against UV radiation, darker or over-pigmented skin can affect the beauty and lead to serious aesthetic problems. Hyperpigmented areas of the skin or lesions contain melasma (also called chloasma), d. H. irregularly shaped yellowish-brown spots.

In general, a distinction is made in pigment spots between freckles (ephelides), age spots (lentigines), so-called age warts (verrucae seborrhoicea) and hyperpigmentation (eg, chloasma or melasma). Freckles in particular are prone to skin type I, d. H. with very light skin and reddish hair. Hyperpigmentation (chloasma), on the other hand, is common in those women who routinely deliver estrogen to their bodies. Very often the sun plays an important role. You can prevent it especially by regular sunscreen with a high SPF. In order to remove unsightly pigment spots, various options are available, such as laser, dermabrasion or other electrosurgical methods, as well as so-called bleaching creams. The latter alternative has the advantage that it is much cheaper for the patient than the electrosurgical procedures. In addition, the application is easier and more enjoyable.

A large number of skin-whitening compounds for the treatment of pigmentation marks are available on the market. Among others, these are compounds such. As hydroquinone (1,4-dihydroxybenzene), kojic acid, arbutin, aloesin, niacinamide, vitamin C or rucinol, which prevent the production of melanin in the skin. Also plant extracts such. B. from Morus alba or Phyllanthus emblica, especially in the Southeast Asian region, application to brighten the Hautteint.

This can be done using different mechanisms. However, most of the skin lightening agents delay the conversion of tyrosine into melanin by blocking the enzyme tyrosinase. However, these known compounds have a number of disadvantages, such. B. low depigmentation efficiency, side effects such as skin irritation or skin exfoliation (skin peeling), cell damage, low skin penetration or low durability or stability of the formulations. Therefore, there is a need for new safeners with higher efficiency and good formulation properties.

The invention has for its object to overcome the disadvantages indicated in the prior art and to develop effective alternatives that have an effective ability to brighten the skin - with the aim of improving the cosmetic effectiveness while reducing the side effects.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that extracts from plant parts of Eugenia uniflora have a high skin-lightening effect.

Eugenia uniflora is a shrub with edible fruits that is commercially available in the garden trade. Extracts of the leaves are used as perfumes because of their content of essential oils.

Extracts of Eugenia uniflora have a skin lightening effect is not known in the prior art.

JP 05-155750 A describes the use of extracts of Eugenia jambolana for skin lightening. Based on this document, however, the use of Eugenia uniflora extracts for skin lightening is not suggested, since species of the same genus do not necessarily contain the same ingredients and therefore do not have to show the same effect. For example, Eugenia jambolana contains Eugenin ( Segupta et al. 1965, Journal of the Indian Chemical Society 42: 255-258 ), which is known for its inhibiting effect of melanin synthesis ( JP 05-301813 A ), which explains why the skin-lightening activity of Eugenia jambolana can be explained by the presence of eugenin. In contrast, this could Substance in Eugenia uniflora extracts are not detected (see Example 3), which is why the skin lightening effect of extracts from Eugenia uniflora is particularly surprising.

A first subject of the present invention is therefore the use of an extract of plant parts of Eugenia uniflora for lightening the skin.

According to the extracts of Eugenia uniflora plant parts with good compatibility at the same time valuable cosmetic and / or pharmacological properties by the lightening of the skin associated with a relative melanin content of less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, more preferably less than 70%.

A preferred embodiment of the present invention is the use of an extract from plant parts of Eugenia uniflora for the inhibition of tyrosinase. The inhibition of tyrosinase can also be done in vitro. The term "inhibition" refers to any reduction in activity that is based on the action of the specific extract of the invention and is made possible by recognition, binding and blocking of the target molecules.

The aforementioned use of the extract can be done in in vitro or in vivo models. The susceptibility of a particular cell to treatment with the extract can be determined by testing in vitro. Typically, a culture of the cell is incubated with the extract of the invention at various concentrations for a time sufficient to allow the active agents to inhibit the synthesis of melanin, usually between about one hour and one week. Cultured cells from a biopsy sample can be used for testing in vitro. The amount of post-treatment melanin in the cells is then determined. The use in vitro is particularly for samples of mammalian species suffering from skin pigmentation disorders. The host or patient may be of any mammalian species, e.g. As a primate species, especially humans, but also rodents including mice, rats and hamsters), rabbits, horses, cattle, dogs, cats, etc.

The in vivo dose of the extract is advantageously matched to the susceptibility of the tyrosinase and / or severity of the patient's pigmentation disorder with respect to the in vitro data, thereby significantly increasing efficacy. Typically, a cosmetic dose will be sufficient to significantly reduce the undesirable amount of melanin in the target tissue while maintaining and ultimately improving the patient's quality of life.

Use will generally continue until there is a significant reduction in tyrosinase activity and melanin production, e.g. B. at least about 10% reduction in melanin content and can be continued until essentially no unwanted overproduction of melanin is detected. It is understood that a skin lightening is a repeated or ongoing treatment, since after discontinuation of the preparations, the normal melanin synthesis rate is resumed.

Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is the use of an extract from plant parts of Eugenia uniflora for the prophylaxis, treatment and / or follow-up of pigmentary disorders of the skin.

According to the invention, extracts from Eugenia uniflora plant parts are suitable for use in the prophylaxis, treatment and / or follow-up of pigment disorders selected from the group of hyperpigmentation, freckles, age spots and sunspots.

The use of the extracts from plant parts of Eugenia uniflora can therefore be cosmetic or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, nature. It is preferably a cosmetic use, more preferably a non-therapeutic cosmetic use.

In principle, all above-ground parts of the plant can be used for the extract, for example the leaves, flowers or fruits. Preferred plant parts are the leaves.

• a) Extraktion der Pflanzenteile von Eugenia uniflora mithilfe eines Lösungsmittels und
• b) Entfernen des Lösungsmittels.

The plant extract from Eugenia uniflora can be prepared by methods known to those skilled in the art. A plant extract which is particularly suitable for the use according to the invention is prepared as follows:

• a) extraction of the plant parts of Eugenia uniflora using a solvent and
• b) removing the solvent.

The plant parts can be used directly for the extraction according to step a). Typically, however, the plant parts are first dried and crushed.

The drying can be carried out, for example, in air or preferably in a vacuum drying oven at elevated temperature, preferably between 30 and 50 ° C., more preferably at about 40 ° C.

The crushing can be done by a common method, for example by using cutting tools such as knives or scissors, or by using a blender.

Subsequently, the plant parts are extracted. The extraction is carried out by methods known to those skilled in the art. For this, the plant parts are mixed with a solvent.

Preference is given to using a solvent selected from water, organic solvents or mixtures thereof. Examples of organic solvents are methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, acetonitrile, acetone or ethyl acetate.

Solvent mixtures of water and organic solvents preferably contain 10-90% by volume of water, more preferably 30-70% by volume of water.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the solvent is selected from water or alcohol, preferably ethanol. In a particularly preferred embodiment, water is used as the solvent.

The extraction is typically carried out at temperatures between 20 and 90 ° C, preferably between 50 and 90 ° C, more preferably at 70 ° C.

In step b) the solvent is removed. This is typically done by filtration.

Optionally, the extract obtained can then be concentrated and / or dried in a step c).

This can be done using methods common to the person skilled in the art. The concentration is carried out using, for example, a rotary evaporator or a falling film evaporator, and may also be carried out under reduced pressure. The extract can be made, for example, by means of spray drying, freeze drying. The extract is preferably dried completely to constant weight.

It is believed that the high skin lightening activity of the extracts of the present invention, without being bound by theory, is due to a combination of various active components in the extracts. The skin-lightening effect of the extract is particularly good when it is prepared by the method described above and in particular according to its preferred embodiments.

A further embodiment of the present invention relates to the above-described use of extracts of plant parts of Eugenia uniflora in combination with at least one further active ingredient, preferably from the group of antioxidants, vitamins, UV filters, skin lightening agents, self-tanning agents, anti-inflammatory agents , antimicrobial agents, skin moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents and anti-cellulite agents. Preferably, the use is in combination with at least one or more UV filters or at least one further active substance or extract with a skin-lightening activity.

Another object of the present invention is a preparation containing an extract of plant parts of Eugenia uniflora and one or more UV filters.

Likewise provided by the present invention is a preparation comprising an extract of Eugenia uniflora and at least one further active substance or extract having a skin-lightening activity.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "preparation" is synonymous with the term "agent", "composition" or "formulation" used.

The preparations are usually topically applicable preparations, such as. As cosmetic or dermatological formulations or medical devices. Topically applicable means in the context of the invention that the preparation is applied externally and locally, ie that the preparation must be suitable, for example, to be applied to the skin can. The preparations in this case contain a cosmetically, pharmaceutically or dermatologically suitable carrier and, depending on the desired property profile, optionally further suitable ingredients. The topical preparations are preferably used as a cosmetic or dermatological preparation, particularly preferably as a cosmetic preparation.

The preparations may comprise or contain, consist essentially of or consist of the necessary and optional ingredients mentioned above and / or below. Any compounds or components which may be used in the compositions are either known and commercially available or may be synthesized by known methods.

The preparations according to the invention preferably contain from 0.01 to 99% by weight of the extract of Eugenia uniflora, based on the total weight of the preparation. Preferably, an amount of 0.05 to 30 wt .-% is used, more preferably from 0.1 to 10 wt .-%. The expert does not have any difficulties in selecting the quantities according to the intended effect of the preparation.

In principle, all UV filters can be used in the preparations according to the invention. Particularly preferred are those UV filters whose physiological harmlessness has already been demonstrated. Both for UVA and UVB filters, there are many known and proven substances from the literature. The compounds listed in the following lists are to be considered as examples only. Of course, other UV filters can be used.

Preferred formulations may contain organic UV filters, so-called hydrophilic or lipophilic sunscreen filters, which are effective in the UVA range and / or UVB range and / or IR and / or VIS range (absorber). These substances can be found in particular in p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, β, β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives and polymeric filters and silicone filters described in the application WO 93/04665 be selected. Further examples of organic filters are in the patent application EP-A 0 487 404 specified. In the following, the named UV filters are usually named according to the INCI nomenclature.

In particular suitable for a combination are:
para-aminobenzoic acid and its derivatives: PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, e.g. B. under the name "Escalol 507" from the company. ISP, glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA, z. B. sold under the name "Uvinul P25" from the company. BASF.

Salicylates: homosalates sold under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Merck; Ethyl hexyl salicylates, e.g. B. sold under the name "Neo Heliopan OS" by Fa. Symrise; Dipropylene glycol salicylate, e.g. B. sold under the name "Dipsal" from the company. Scher; TEA salicylates, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan TS" of the Fa. Symrise.

β, β-diphenylacrylate derivatives: octocrylenes, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Eusolex ^® OCR" by Merck; "Uvinul N539" from BASF; Etocrylenes, e.g. B. sold under the name "Uvinul N35" from BASF.

Benzophenone derivatives: Benzophenone-1, e.g. Sold under the name "Uvinul 400"; Benzophenone-2, z. Sold under the name "Uvinul D50"; Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, e.g. Sold under the name "Uvinul M40"; Benzophenone-4, e.g. Sold under the name Uvinul MS40 "; Benzophenone-9, e.g. B. sold under the name "Uvinul DS-49" from BASF. Benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Helisorb 11" by the company. Norquay; Benzophenone-8, e.g. Sold under the name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; Benzophenone-12 n-hexyl benzoate 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) or 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, sold by Messrs. Merck, Darmstadt, under the name Eusolex ^® 4360th

Benzylidene camphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. Sold under the name "Mexoryl SD" from Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, e.g. B. sold under the name "Eusolex 6300" from the company Merck; Benzylidencamphorsulfonsäure, z. B. sold under the name "Mexoryl SL" from the company. Chimex; Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, z. B. sold under the name "Mexoryl SO" from the company. Chimex; Terephthalylidenedicamphor sulfonic acid, e.g. B. sold under the name "Mexoryl SX" from the Fa Chimex; Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidencamphor, sold under the name "Mexoryl SW" from the company. Chimex.

Phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, e.g. B. sold under the name "Eusolex 232" from the company Merck; Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Fa. Symrise.

Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: Drometrizol trisiloxane, z. Sold under the name "Silatrizole" by the company. Rhodia Chimie; Methylenebis (benzotriazolyl) tetramethylbutylphenol in solid form, e.g. B. marketed under the name "MIXXIM BB / 100" from the company. Fairmount Chemical, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion, eg. B. sold under the name "Tinosorb M" by the Fe. BASF.

Triazine derivatives: ethylhexyltriazone, e.g. B. sold under the name "Uvinul T150" from the company. BASF; Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, e.g. B. sold under the name "Uvasorb HEB" of the Fe. Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris (diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazines or 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazines, marketed as Tinosorb A2B by Fe. BASF; 2,2 '- [6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl] bis [5- (2-ethylhexyl) oxy] phenol, sold as Tinosorb S by the company. BASF; N2, N4-bis [4- [5- (1,1-dimethylpropyl) -2-benzoxazolyl] phenyl] -N6- (2-ethylhexyl) -1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triamine, marketed as Uvasorb K 2A from Sigma 3V.

Anthraniline derivatives: menthyl anthranilate, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan MA" by Fa. Symrise.

Imidazole derivatives: Ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazoline propionate.

Benzalmalonate derivatives: polyorganosiloxanes containing functional benzalmalonate groups, such as. B. polysilicone-15, z. Sold under the name "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann LaRoche.

4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives: 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

Benzoxazole derivatives: 2,4-bis [5- (1-dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazines, e.g. B. sold under the name Uvasorb K2A from the company. Sigma 3V and mixtures containing this.

oder die UV-Filter der folgenden Strukturen

Piperazine derivatives such as the compound

or the UV filters of the following structures

It is also possible to use UV filters based on polysiloxane copolymers with a random distribution in accordance with the following formula, where z. B. a = 1.2; b = 58 and c = 2.8 are:

Suitable organic UV-protective substances are preferably selected from the following list: ethylhexyl salicylate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor , Terephthalylidenedicamphorosulfonic acid, disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, methylenebis (benzotriazolyl) tetramethylbutylphenol, ethylhexyltriazone, diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, polysilicone-15, 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis [5- 1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazines and mixtures thereof.

These organic UV filters are incorporated usually in an amount of 0.01 to 20 weight percent, preferably 1 to 20 wt .-%, in formulations.

The preparations may contain, in addition to the extract and the optionally organic UV filters, as described above, further inorganic UV filters, so-called particulate UV filters. These combinations with particulate UV filters are possible both as a powder and as a dispersion or paste of the following types.

In this case, both those from the group of titanium dioxides, such as. B. coated titanium dioxide (for. Example Eusolex ^® T-2000, Eusolex ^® T-AQUA, Eusolex ^® T-AVO, Eusolex ^® T-OLEO), zinc oxides (z. B. Sachtotec® ^®), iron oxides and also cerium oxides and / or zirconium oxides are preferred.

Furthermore, combinations with pigmentary Titandixoxid or zinc oxide are possible, wherein the particle size of these pigments is greater than or equal to 200 nm, for example ^® Hombitan FG or Hombitan ^® FF-Pharma.

It may further be preferred if the preparations contain inorganic UV filters which are prepared by customary methods, such as, for example, in US Pat Cosmetics & Toiletries 1990, 105, 53 described, were treated. In this case, one or more of the following aftertreatment components may be selected: amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty acid alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, phospholipids, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, polyethylenes, silicones, proteins (especially Collagen or elastin), alkanolamines, silica, alumina, other metal oxides, phosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate or glycerol.

• – unbehandelte Titandioxide wie z. B. die Produkte Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B der Fa, Tayca; Titandioxd P25 der Fa. Degussa,
• – Nachbehandelte mikronisierte Titandioxide mit Aluminiumoxid und Siliciumdioxid Nachbahandlung wie z. B. das Produkt „Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA der Tayca; oder das Produkt „Tioveil Fin” der Fa. Uniqema,
• – Nachbehandelte mikronisierte Titandioxide mit Aluminiumoxid und/oder Aluminiumstearate/laurate Nachbehandlung wie z. B. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T der Fa. Tayca, Eusolex T-2000 der Firma Merck,
• – Nachbehandelte mikronisierte Titandioxide mit Eisenoxid und/oder Eisenstearate Nachbehandlung wie z. B. das Produkt „Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F” der Fa. Tayca,
• – Nachbehandelte mikronisierte Titandioxide mit Siliciumdioxide, Aluminiumoxid und Silicon Nachbehandlung wie z. B. das Produkt ”Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS”, der Fa. Tayca,
• – Nachbehandelte mikronisierte Titandioxide mit Natrumhexameta-phosphate, wie z. B. das Produkt ”Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W” der Fa. Tayca.

Preferably used particulate UV filters are:

• - untreated titanium dioxides such. B. the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B Fa Fa, Tayca; Titanium Dioxide P25 from Degussa,
• - Aftertreated micronized titanium dioxides with alumina and silica Nachbahandlung such. For example, the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA from Tayca; or the product "Tioveil Fin" from Uniqema,
• - Aftertreated micronized titanium dioxides with alumina and / or aluminum stearates / laurate aftertreatment such. B. Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T from. Tayca, Eusolex T-2000 from Merck,
• - Aftertreated micronized titanium dioxides with iron oxide and / or iron stearates aftertreatment such. B. the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F" Fa. Tayca,
• - Aftertreated micronized titanium dioxides with silicas, alumina and silicon aftertreatment such. B. the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS", the company Tayca,
• - Aftertreated micronized titanium dioxides with Natrumhexameta-phosphate, such as. As the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W" Fa. Tayca.

• – Octyltrimethoxysilane; wie z. B. das Produkt Tego Sun T 805 der Fa. Degussa,
• – Siliciumdioxid; wie z. B. das Produkt Parsol T-X der Fa. DSM,
• – Aluminiumoxid und Stearinsäure; wie z. B. das Produkt UV-Titan M160 der Fa. Sachtleben,
• – Aluminium und Glycerin; wie z. B. das Produkt UV-Titan der Fa. Sachtleben
• – Aluminium und Silikonölen, wie z. B. das Produkt UV-Titan M262 der Fa. Sachtleben,
• – Natriumhexamethaphosphat und Polyvinylpyrrolidon,
• – Polydimethylsiloxane, wie z. B. das Produkt 70250 Cardre UF TiO2Sl3” der Fa. Cardre,
• – Polydimethylhydrogensiloxane, wie z. B. das Produkt Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic” der Fa. Color Techniques.

The treated micronized titanium dioxides used for combination may also be post-treated with:

• - octyltrimethoxysilanes; such as B. the product Tego Sun T 805 from Degussa,
• - silica; such as B. the product Parsol TX from DSM,
• Alumina and stearic acid; such as B. the product UV titanium M160 Fa. Sachtleben,
• - aluminum and glycerin; such as B. the product UV titanium from Fa. Sachtleben
• - Aluminum and silicone oils, such as. B. the product UV titanium M262 Fa. Sachtleben,
• Sodium hexamethaphosphate and polyvinylpyrrolidone,
• - Polydimethylsiloxane, such as. Example, the product 70250 Cardre UF TiO2Sl3 "the Fa. Cardre,
• - Polydimethylhydrogensiloxane, such as. Example, the product Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic "from the company Color Techniques.

• – Unbehandelte Zinkoxide wie z. B. das Produkt Z-Cote der Fa. BASF (Sunsmart), Nanox der Fa. Elementis
• – Nachbehandelte Zinkoxide wie z. B die folgenden Produkte:
• • ”Zinc Oxide CS-5” der Fa. Toshibi (ZnO nachbehandelt mit polymethylhydrogenosiloxane)
• • Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN der Fa. Nanophase Technologies
• • ”SPD-Z1” der Fa Shin-Etsu (ZnO nachbehandelt mit einem Silikongepfropften Acrylpolymer, dispergiert in Cyclodimethylsiloxane
• • ”Escalol Z100” der Fa ISP (Aluminiumoxid nachbehandeltes ZnO dispergiert in einer ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene/methicone copolymer Mischung)
• • ”Fuji ZNO-SMS-10” der Fa. Fuji Pigment (ZnO nachbehandelt mit Siliciumdioxid und Polymethylsilesquioxan);
• • Unbehandeltes Ceroxide Mikropigment z. B. mit der Bezeichnung ”Colloidal Cerium Oxide” der Fa Rhone Poulenc
• • Unbehandelte und/oder nachbehandelte Eisenoxide mit der Bezeichnung Nanogar der Fa. Arnaud.

Furthermore, the combination with the following products may also be advantageous:

• - Untreated zinc oxides such. For example, the product Z-Cote from BASF (Sunsmart), Nanox from the company Elementis
• - After-treated zinc oxides such. B the following products:
• "Zinc Oxide CS-5" from Toshibi (ZnO aftertreated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane)
• • Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN from Nanophase Technologies
• "SPD-Z1" from Shin-Etsu (ZnO post-treated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxanes
• "Escalol Z100" from ISP (alumina aftertreated ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecenes / methicone copolymer blend)
• Fuji ZNO-SMS-10 from Fuji Pigment (ZnO aftertreated with silica and polymethylsilsquioxane);
• • untreated ceroxide micropigment z. B. with the name "Colloidal Cerium Oxide" Fa Rhone Poulenc
• • Untreated and / or post-treated iron oxides called Nanogar from Arnaud.

By way of example, mixtures of various metal oxides, such as. As titanium dioxide and cerium oxide are used with and without aftertreatment, such as. As the product Sunveil A Fa. Ikeda. In addition, mixtures of alumina, silica and silicone post-treated titanium dioxide / zinc oxide mixtures, such as. B. the product UV titanium M261 Fa. Sachtleben be used.

These inorganic UV filters are incorporated usually in an amount of 0.1 to 25 weight percent, preferably 2 to 10 wt .-%, in the preparations.

By combining one or more of said compounds with UV filter action, the protective effect against harmful effects of UV radiation can be optimized.

All mentioned UV filters can also be used in encapsulated form. In particular, it is advantageous to use organic UV filters in encapsulated form. In this case, the capsules in preparations to be used according to the invention are preferably present in amounts which ensure that the encapsulated UV filters are present in the preparation in the above-indicated weight percentages.

Skin-lightening active ingredients (or synonymously depigmenting agents) which can be used in the preparations according to the invention can, in principle, be all active ingredients known to the person skilled in the art. For combination are commercially available melanogenesis inhibitors such. Ascorbic acid and its derivatives, aloesin, niacinamide, emblica, elagic acid, licorice extract, mulberry extract, kojic acid, licorice root extract, rucinol, hydroquinone, azelaic acid, arbutin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or the like. Preferred examples of compounds having skin-lightening activity are hydroquinone, niacinamide, ascorbic acid and physiologically acceptable salts thereof, kojic acid, arbutin, aloesin, azelaic acid, elagic acid or rucinol. Preferred examples of extracts with skin-lightening activity are licorice extract, mulberry extract or emblica.

Furthermore, at least one further active ingredient can be present in the preparations according to the invention. The further active ingredient is preferably selected from the group of UV filters, antioxidants, vitamins, skin-lightening active ingredients, anti-aging agents, anti-inflammatory agents, antimicrobial agents, agents for improving the moisture content of the skin (skin moistness regulators), anti-cellulite Active ingredients, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-acne agents, deodorants, pigments and self-tanning substances, more preferably from the group of UV filters, antioxidants, vitamins, skin lightening agents, self-tanning substances, anti-aging agents and anti-cellulite agents, most preferably from the group of UV filters, antioxidants, vitamins and skin lightening agents.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparation further contains at least one substance which serves to maintain and / or to improve the moisture content of the skin. These substances may, without this being construed as a restriction, inter alia, be substances that belong to the so-called natural moisturizing factors, such. B. 2-oxopyrrolidines 5-carboxylic acid.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparation contains one or more antioxidants and / or one or more vitamins. Through the use of antioxidants, a protective effect against oxidative stress or against the action of radicals can generally be achieved, whereby the expert has no difficulty in selecting suitable fast or delayed-acting antioxidants. There are many known and proven substances in the literature that can be used as antioxidants, e.g. For example, amino acids (eg, glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles, (eg, urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides, such as. B. D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg., Anserin), carotenoids, carotenes (such as α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (such as dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (such as thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl) , Ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (such as esters , Ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (such as buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated dosages (such as, for example, pmol to μmol / kg), (metal) chelators (such as α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitins acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (such as. Citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acids, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA, pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphonate and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (such as ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium Ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (such as vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (such as vitamin A palmitate), as well as benzoic acid coniferyl benzoate, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α- Glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordohydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, quercitin, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (such as ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and derivatives thereof (e.g. eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (such as stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide). Other suitable antioxidants are also available in WO 2006/111233 and WO 2006/111234 described.

worin
R¹ -C(O)CH₃, -CO₂R³, -C(O)NH₂ und -C(O)N(R⁴)₂,
X O oder NH,
R² lineares oder verzweigtes Alkyl mit 1 bis 30 C-Atomen,
R³ lineares oder verzweigtes Alkyl mit 1 bis 20 C-Atomen,
R⁴ jeweils unabhängig voneinander H oder lineares oder verzweigtes Alkyl mit 1 bis 8 C-Atomen,
R⁵ H, lineares oder verzweigtes Alkyl mit 1 bis 8 C-Atomen oder lineares oder verzweigtes Alkoxy mit 1 bis 8 C-Atomen und
R⁶ lineares oder verzweigtes Alkyl mit 1 bis 8 C-Atomen bedeutet.Suitable antioxidants are also compounds of the general formulas A or B.

wherein
R ¹ -C (O) CH ₃ , -CO ₂ R ³ , -C (O) NH ₂ and -C (O) N (R ⁴ ) ₂ ,
XO or NH,
R ^{2 is} linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 30 C atoms,
R ^{3 is} linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 20 C atoms,
R ⁴ each independently of one another are H or linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 8 C atoms,
R ^{5 is} H, linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 8 C atoms or linear or branched alkoxy having 1 to 8 C atoms and
R ^{6 is} linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preference is given to derivatives of 2- (4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzylidene) malonic acid and / or 2- (4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzyl) -malonic acid, more preferably 2- (4-hydroxy-3,5 -dimethoxybenzyliden) malonic acid-bis (2-ethylhexyl) ester (z. B. Oxynex ^® ST Liquid) and / or 2- (4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzyl) -malonic acid-bis- (2-ethylhexyl) ester (z. B. RonaCare ^® AP).

Mixtures of antioxidants are also suitable for use in the formulations of the invention. Known and commercially available mixtures are, for example, mixtures containing as active ingredients lecithin, L - (+) - ascorbyl palmitate and citric acid, natural tocopherols, L - (+) - ascorbyl palmitate, L - (+) - ascorbic acid and citric acid (such as, for example, Oxynex ^® K LIQUID), tocopherol extracts from natural sources, L - (+) - ascorbyl palmitate, L - (+) - ascorbic acid and citric acid (such as Oxynex ^® L LIQUID), DL-α-tocopherol, L - (+) -Ascorbylpalmitat, citric acid and lecithin (such as Oxynex ^® LM.) or butylhydroxytoluene (BHT), L - () - ascorbyl palmitate and citric acid (such as Oxynex ^® 2004th). Such antioxidants are used with compounds of formula (I) or sub-formulas thereof in such compositions usually in weight percent ratios in the range of 1000: 1 to 1: 1000, preferably in weight percent ratios of 100: 1 to 1: 100.

Among the phenols with an antioxidant effect, the polyphenols, which are sometimes present as natural substances, are of particular interest for applications in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic or food sector. For example, the flavonoids or bioflavonoids, which are mainly known as plant dyes, frequently have an antioxidant potential. With effects of the substitution pattern of mono- and dihydroxyflavones deal Lemanska et al., Current Topics in Biophysics 2000, 24 (2), 101-108 , It is observed there that dihydroxyflavones having an OH group adjacent to the keto function or OH groups in the 3'4 'or 6,7 or 7,8 position have antioxidant properties, while other mono- and dihydroxyflavones have in part no antioxidant properties exhibit.

Quercetin (cyanidanol, cyanidolone 1522, meletin, sophoretine, ericin, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone) is frequently cited as a particularly effective antioxidant (eg. Rice-Evans et al., Trends in Plant Science 1997, 2 (4), 152-159 ). Lemanska et al., Free Radical Biology & Medicine 2001, 31 (7), 869-881 , investigate the pH dependence of the antioxidant action of hydroxyflavones. Quercetin shows the highest activity of the investigated structures over the entire pH range.

The preparations according to the invention may contain vitamins as further ingredients. Preference is given to vitamins and vitamin derivatives selected from vitamin A, vitamin A propionate, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin A acetate, retinol, vitamin B, thiamin chloride hydrochloride (vitamin B ₁ ), riboflavin (vitamin B ₂ ), nicotinamide , Vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin D, ergocalciferol (vitamin D ₂ ), vitamin E, DL-α-tocopherol, tocopherol-E-acetate, tocopherol hydrogen succinate, vitamin K1, esculin (vitamin P active ingredient), thiamine (vitamin B ₁ ), Nicotinic acid (niacin), pyridoxine, pyridoxal, pyridoxamine, (vitamin B ₆ ), pantothenic acid, biotin, folic acid and cobalamin (vitamin B ₁₂ ) in the preparations according to the invention, particularly preferably vitamin A palmitate, vitamin C and its derivatives , DL-α-tocopherol, tocopherol-E-acetate, nicotinic acid, pantothenic acid and biotin. Vitamins are usually added to the formulations when applied cosmetically in the range of 0.01% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight.

The preparations according to the invention may additionally contain anti-aging active ingredients, anti-cellulite active ingredients or customary skin-friendly or skin-care active ingredients. Skin-sparing or skin-care active ingredients can, in principle, be all active ingredients known to the person skilled in the art. Particularly preferred anti-aging active ingredients are pyrimidinecarboxylic acids, aryloximes, bioflavonoids, bioflavonoid-containing extracts, chromones or retinoids.

Suitable anti-aging active substances, in particular for skin-care preparations, are preferably also so-called compatible solutes. These are substances that are involved in the osmoregulation of plants or microorganisms and can be isolated from these organisms. Under the generic term compatible solutes are also in the German patent application DE-A-10133202 described osmolytes. Suitable osmolytes are, for example, the polyols, methylamine compounds and amino acids, and in each case their precursors. As osmolytes in the sense of the German patent application DE-A-10133202 especially substances from the group of polyols, such as myo-inositol, mannitol or sorbitol and / or one or more of the following osmolytically active substances understood: taurine, choline, betaine, phosphorylcholine, Glycerophosphorylcholine, glutamine, glycine, α-alanine, glutamate , Aspartate, proline, and taurine. Precursors of these substances are, for example, glucose, glucose polymers, phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylinositol, inorganic phosphates, proteins, peptides and polyamic acids. Precursors are z. B. Compounds that are converted to osmolytes by metabolic steps.

Preferably according to the invention as compatible Solute substances selected from the group consisting of Pyrimidincarbonsäuren (such as ectoine and hydroxyectoine), proline, betaine, glutamine, cyclic diphosphoglycerate, N-acetylornithine, trimethylamine N-oxide, di-myo-inositolphosphat (DIP), cyclic 2,3-diphosphoglycerate (cDPG), 1,1-diglycerol phosphate (DGP), β-mannosylglycerate (Firoin), β-mannosylglyceramide (Firoin-A) or / and di-mannosyl-di-inositol phosphate (DMIP) or a optical isomer, derivative, e.g. As an acid, a salt or ester of these compounds or combinations thereof.

In particular, ectoine ((S) -1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid) and hydroxyectoine ((S, S) -1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-5 are among the pyrimidinecarboxylic acids hydroxy-2-methyl-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid) and their derivatives.

Additional can be used as anti-aging ingredients Merck products such. B. 5,7-dihydroxy-2-methylchromone, marketed under the trade name used 5 RonaCare Luremin ^{®, ®} Ronacare isoquercetin, Ronacare ^® tiliroside or Ronacare ^® cyclopeptide.

Known anti-aging substances are also chromones, such as in EP 1508327 or retinoids, for example retinol (vitamin A), retinoic acid, retinaldehyde or synthetically modified compounds of vitamin A. The described chromones and retinoids are also effective anti-cellulite agents. Another well-known anti-cellulite drug is caffeine.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparation additionally contains at least one self-tanning substance. Such a preparation usually has a contrast-reducing effect and enables the achievement of an even skin tone. The extracts from plant parts of Eugenia uniflora can accordingly also be used according to the invention in combination with self-tanning substances for the purpose of reducing the contrast and achieving an even skin tone. A contrast reducing agent is a substance that reduces uneven skin coloration by reducing the contrast between stronger and less-colored areas of the skin. In this case, such an uneven skin coloration can be caused by an uneven pigmentation and / or a different distribution of the cornea. Uneven pigmentation is by no means uncommon in the population and is due to a different degree of melanin production of the melanocytes or an irregular distribution of the melanocytes in the skin. The combination of tanning mixtures based on the Maillard reaction or Michael addition with melanogenesis inhibiting substances causes already hyperpigmented areas of skin to lose their high melanin concentrations and the hue produced by the coloring agent on the skin surface to spread over a large area.

In particular, a contrast reduction can be achieved by preparations comprising an extract of Eugenia uniflora plant parts with a self-tanning substance, preferably containing dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and derivatives derived therefrom, DHA rapid, DHA plus or erythrulose, or a mixture of self-tanning substances, preferably DHA, DHA rapid, containing DHA plus and / or erythrulose is combined. As an advantageous self-tanner in a mixture containing dihydroxyacetone or Preparation may be used inter alia: glycerol aldehyde, hydroxymethylglyoxal, γ-dialdehyde, 6-aldo-D-fructose, ninhydrin, 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (juglone) or 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (Lawson) or a mixture of said compounds. Erythrulose is particularly preferably used in the mixture containing dihydroxyacetone. Very particular preference is given to using dihydroxyacetone or a derivative derived therefrom without further self-tanning substances.

In the described preparations, which according to the invention contain at least one compound of formula (I) and a self-tanner, color pigments may furthermore also be present, the layer structure of the pigments not being limited. Preferably, the color pigment should be skin colored or brownish at a level of from 0.5 to 5% by weight. The selection of a corresponding pigment is familiar to the person skilled in the art.

The preparations described are particularly suitable for use in the lightening of skin, inhibition of tyrosinase and / or prophylaxis, treatment and / or follow-up of pigmentary disorders of the skin, in all cases especially hyperpigmentation, freckles, age spots, sun spots and environmental aging of the skin. They are present in various dosage forms commonly used for this application.

As an application form of the preparations according to the invention are z. As: solutions, suspensions, emulsions, PIT emulsions, pastes, ointments, gels, creams, lotions, powders, soaps, surfactant-containing cleaning preparations, oils, aerosols, patches, envelopes, dressings and sprays, especially for external use. Other applications are z. As sticks, shampoos and shower rooms. Further typical cosmetic application forms are also lipsticks, lip balms, powder, emulsion and wax make-up as well as sunscreen, pre-sun and after-sun preparations.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may in particular be an anhydrous preparation, a lotion or emulsion, such as cream or milk, or microemulsion, in each case of the water-in-oil (W / O) or of the oil-in-water type (O / W ), a multiple emulsion, for example of the type Waser-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or vice versa (O / W / O), gels or solutions (especially oily-alcoholic, oily-aqueous or aqueous alcoholic gels or solutions), a solid stick, an ointment or even an aerosol. For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.

One embodiment of the invention is an emulsion which is present as cream or milk and contains, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, in particular triglycerides of fatty acids, lanolin, natural and synthetic oils or waxes and emulsifiers in the presence of water. Further particularly preferred embodiments are oily lotions based on natural or synthetic oils and waxes, lanolin, fatty acid esters, in particular triglycerides of fatty acids, or oily-alcoholic lotions based on a lower alcohol, such as ethanol, or a glycerol, such as propylene glycol, and / or A particularly preferred preparation of the invention may also be present as an alcoholic gel containing one or more lower alcohols or polyols, such as ethanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, and a thickening agent , such as silica. The oily-alcoholic gels also contain natural or synthetic oil or wax. The solid sticks are preferably made of natural or synthetic waxes and oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, lanolin and other fatty substances. If a preparation is formulated as an aerosol, the usual blowing agents are preferably used, such as alkanes, air, nitrogen, dinitrogen monoxide, particularly preferably alkanes or air.

The extract, as described, can be incorporated in the usual way into cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

Any customary carrier substances, adjuvants and optionally further active ingredients can be added to the preparation. Preferable excipients come from the group of preservatives, stabilizers, solubilizers, colorants, d. H. Pigments, dyes, emulsifiers or odor improvers.

The present invention accordingly also provides preparations, which contain a carrier suitable for cosmetic, pharmaceutical or / and dermatological applications and optionally physiologically acceptable excipients and / or fillers.

Suitable excipients and auxiliaries or fillers are described in detail in the following part.

Ointments, pastes, creams and gels may contain the usual excipients suitable for topical administration, e.g. As animal and vegetable fats, waxes, paraffins, starch, tragacanth, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene glycols, silicones, bentonites, silica, talc and titanium dioxide or mixtures of these substances.

Powders and sprays may contain the usual carriers, such. As lactose, talc, silica, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate and polyamide powder or mixtures of these substances. Sprays can additionally the usual volatile, liquefied propellants such. For example, chlorofluorocarbons, propane / butane or dimethyl ether. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use. But air can also in non-pressurized metering devices, such. As pump sprays are used.

Solutions and emulsions, the usual carriers such as solvents, solubilizers and emulsifiers, such as. For example, water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, 1,3-butyl glycol, oils, especially cottonseed oil, peanut oil, corn oil, olive oil, castor oil and sesame oil, glycerol fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycols and fatty acid esters of sorbitol or mixtures of these substances contain.

A preferred solubilizer in general is 2-isopropyl-5-methylcyclohexanecarbonyl-D-alanine methyl ester.

Suspensions, the usual carriers such as liquid diluents, such as. As water, ethanol or propylene glycol, suspending agents, such as. For example, ethoxylated isostearyl, Polyoxyethylensorbitester and Polyoxyethylensorbitanester, microcrystalline cellulose, aluminum metahydroxide, bentonite, agar and tragacanth or mixtures of these substances.

Soaps may contain the usual excipients such as alkali metal salts of fatty acids, salts of fatty acid monoesters, fatty acid protein hydrolysates, isothionates, lanolin, fatty alcohol, vegetable oils, plant extracts, glycerol, sugars or mixtures of these substances.

Surfactant-containing cleaning products may contain the usual excipients such as salts of fatty alcohol sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, sulfosuccinic monoesters, fatty acid protein hydrolysates, isothionates, imidazolinium derivatives, methyl taurates, sarcosinates, fatty acid amide ether sulfates, alkylamidobetaines, fatty alcohols, fatty acid glycerides, fatty acid diethanolamides, vegetable and synthetic oils, lanolin derivatives, ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters or mixtures of these substances.

Facial and body oils may contain the usual excipients such as synthetic oils such as fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, silicone oils, natural oils such as vegetable oils and oily vegetable extracts, paraffin oils, lanolin oils or mixtures of these substances.

The preferred preparation forms according to the invention include in particular emulsions. O / W emulsions are particularly preferred. Emulsions, W / O emulsions and O / W emulsions are available in the usual way. Emulsions of the invention are advantageous and contain z. As the said fats, oils, waxes and other fatty substances, and water or an aqueous phase, for example with solvents or hydrophilic surfactants, and an emulsifier, as is commonly used for such a type of preparation.

• – Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• – Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z. B. Rizinusöl;
• – Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• – Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, also natural oils such. Castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, z. With isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the context of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acid and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils may then be advantageously selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexadecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate Oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as. B. jojoba oil. Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, for. For example, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous to use in the context of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

If appropriate, the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl - or monoethyl ether and analogous products, also lower C-number alcohols, such as. For example, ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which can be advantageously selected from the group of silica, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides and their derivatives, such as. As hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example Carbopols types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination. In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. For alcoholic solvents, water can be another ingredient.

In a preferred embodiment, the preparations according to the invention contain hydrophilic surfactants. The hydrophilic surfactants are preferably selected from the group of alkylglucosides, acyl lactylates, betaines and cocoamphoacetates.

As emulsifiers, for example, the known W / O and O / W emulsifiers can be used. It is advantageous to use further customary co-emulsifiers in the preferred O / W emulsions according to the invention.

According to the invention, advantageous co-emulsifiers are, for example, selected from O / W emulsifiers, primarily from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-16, very particularly advantageously with HLB values of 14.5-15.5, provided that the O / W emulsifiers W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers may also be lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols).

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate, polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol ( 14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate.

As the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt, the sodium laureth-11-carboxylate can be advantageously used. As the alkyl ether sulfate, sodium laureth-4 sulfate can be advantageously used. As the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative, polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can be advantageously used. Also polyethylene glycol (25) soybean oil has been proven. As ethoxylated triglycerides, the polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides can advantageously be used (Evening Primrose = evening primrose).

It is further advantageous to use polyethylene glycol glycerin fatty acid esters selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / cprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl aleate (cocoat).

It is also convenient to select the sorbitan esters from the group of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, and polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.

As optional, but according to the invention optionally advantageous W / O emulsifiers can be used:
Fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of one chain length from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C-atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 C-atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms and sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane arbic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglycerylmonoisostearat, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol, sorbitan, sorbitan, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, stearyl, arachidyl, behenyl, Isobehenylalkohol, selachyl, Chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate or PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate.

The preparation may contain cosmetic adjuvants, which are commonly used in this type of preparations, such as. Thickening agents, emollients, humectants, surfactants, emulsifiers, preservatives, antifoaming agents, perfumes, waxes, lanolin, propellants, dyes and / or pigments which color the agent itself or the skin, and others commonly used in cosmetics ingredients.

It is possible to use as dispersion or solubilizing agent an oil, wax or other fatty substance, a low monoalcohol or a low polyol or mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred monoalcohols or polyols include ethanol, i-propanol, propylene glycol, glycerine and sorbitol.

The present invention also provides a process for the preparation of a preparation as described above, which comprises mixing an extract of Eugenia uniflora with at least one carrier suitable for topical applications and optionally with physiologically acceptable auxiliaries and / or fillers.

The preparations according to the invention can be prepared using techniques which are well known to the person skilled in the art. The mixing may result in dissolution, emulsification or dispersion of the extract as described above in the carrier. The prior teaching of the invention and its embodiments relating to the extract and preparations thereof is valid and applicable without restriction to the preparation of the preparation, if it appears expedient.

Another embodiment of the present invention relates to a pharmaceutical composition containing an extract of plant parts of Eugenia uniflora.

A "drug", "drug" as well as a "pharmaceutical composition", "pharmaceutical formulation" or "pharmaceutical preparation" herein is any agent that can be used in the prophylaxis, therapy, follow-up or post-treatment of patients, at least temporarily show a pathogenic modification of the overall state or the state of individual parts of the patient organism, preferably as a result of pigmentation of the skin.

To increase the protective or therapeutic effect of the compounds of the invention, pharmaceutically acceptable adjuvants may be added. For the purposes of the invention, any substance that enables, amplifies or modifies the extracts according to the invention is an "adjuvant". Known adjuvants are z. B. aluminum compounds, such as. As aluminum hydroxide or aluminum phosphate, saponins, such as. As QS 21, muramyl dipeptide or muramyl tripeptide, proteins such. Gamma interferon or TNF, MF 59, phosphate dibylcholine, squalene or polyols. Furthermore, DNA encoding a protein with adjuvant effect can be administered in parallel or in a construct.

According to the invention, the introduction of the pharmaceutical agent into a cell or an organism can take place in any manner which makes it possible for tyrosinase to be brought into contact with the extracts contained in the composition and, as a result, a response is induced. The pharmaceutical agent of the present invention may be administered orally, topically, transdermally, transmucosally, transurethally, vaginally, rectally, pulmonarily, enterally and / or parenterally, preferably topically or transdermally. The mode of administration chosen will depend on the indication, the dose to be administered, individual-specific parameters, etc. In particular, the various modes of administration will allow for site-specific therapy that minimizes side effects and reduces the dose of the active ingredient.

The dosage forms of the pharmaceutical agent are prepared with the usual solid or liquid carriers and / or diluents and the commonly used excipients according to the desired mode of administration in a suitable dosage and in a conventional manner. In principle, therefore, pharmaceutically acceptable excipients known to those skilled in the art may form part of the pharmaceutical composition of the invention, the amount of excipient material combined with the active ingredient to produce a single dosage varying with the individual to be treated and the mode of administration. These pharmaceutically acceptable additives include salts, buffers, fillers, stabilizers, chelants, antioxidants, solvents, binders, lubricants, tablet coatings, flavors, colors, preservatives, sizing agents, and the like. Examples of such excipients are water, vegetable oils, benzyl alcohols, alkylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerol triacetate, gelatin, carbohydrates, such as. As lactose or starch, magnesium stearate, talc and Vaseline.

The pharmaceutical formulation may be in the form of tablet, film-coated tablet, dragee, lozenge, capsule, pill, powder, granule, syrup, juice, drops, solution, dispersion, suspension, suppository, emulsion, implant, cream, gel, ointment, paste, lotion, serum , Oil, spray, aerosol, glue, plaster or dressing. Tablets, coated tablets, dragees, lozenges, capsules, pills, powders, granules, syrups, juices, drops, solutions, dispersions or suspensions-also in the form of depot-are preferably prepared as oral administration form. Furthermore, parenteral dosage forms such. As suppositories, suspensions, emulsions, implants or solutions to be considered, preferably oily or aqueous solutions. For topical application of the drug with at least one pharmaceutically acceptable excipient, such as. As microcrystalline cellulose, and optionally other excipients, such as. As moisturizers, applied to the skin solid formulations such. As creams, gels, ointments, pastes, powders or emulsions or to be applied to the skin liquid formulations such. As solutions, suspensions, lotions, serums, oils, sprays or aerosols formulated in a conventional manner. Preferably, the pharmaceutical agent is for topical application. The pharmaceutical agent can also be present as a solid composition, for example in the lyophilized state, and then by addition of a resolving agent, such as. B. distilled water, prior to use. The basics of the preparation of lyophilizates are familiar to those skilled in the art.

The concentration of the extract in the formulation may be from 0.01 to 99% by weight. It is crucial that the pharmaceutical composition comprises as active ingredient an effective amount of the extract together with the pharmaceutically acceptable excipients. The terms "effective amount" or "effective dose" are used interchangeably herein to denote an amount of the pharmaceutical agent that has a prophylactically or therapeutically relevant effect on a disease or pathological change in the cell, tissue, organ or mammal. A "prophylactic effect" prevents the onset of disease and also includes the increase in normal physiological function. Prophylaxis is particularly advisable if an individual has predispositions for the outbreak of the aforementioned diseases, such as. As a family history, a genetic defect or a recent disease. A "therapeutically relevant effect" partially or completely relieves one, several or all disease symptoms or leads to the partial or complete return of one, several or all physiological or biochemical parameters related to or causative of the disease or pathological alteration. Also, follow-up is understood as a mode of therapeutic treatment when the extract is administered at specific intervals, e.g. B. to completely eliminate the symptoms of a disease. The particular dose or range of administration for the dose is large enough to achieve the desired prophylactic or therapeutic effect of inducing a biological or medical response. In general, the dose will vary with the age, constitution and gender of the patient, as well as the severity of the disease. It should also be understood that the specific dose, frequency and duration of administration will depend on a variety of factors, such as: The targeting and binding ability of the compounds, dietary habits of the individual to be treated, route of administration, excretion rate and combination with other drugs. The individual dose can be adjusted both in relation to the primary illness and in relation to the occurrence of possible complications. The exact dose can be determined by a person skilled in the art by known means and methods.

In one embodiment of the invention, in order to promote the medicinal effect, the pharmaceutical composition may also comprise one or more further active ingredients, simultaneous or sequential administration being conceivable. The therapeutic effect of the pharmaceutical composition according to the invention may consist, for example, in the fact that inhibiting the tyrosinase as a desired side effect causes certain skin brighteners to work better or reducing the number of side effects of these medications by reducing the dose.

The use of extracts of plant parts of Eugenia uniflora for skin lightening has the advantage that achieve a strong effect even at very low concentration. They advantageously show a high and long-lasting activity with regard to their action as skin-lightening active ingredients. In addition, the extracts are also characterized by high application safety and good formulatability. So they are easy to incorporate into preparations and have increased stability in the preparations. In particular, water extracts are advantageous since they are water-soluble and therefore particularly easy to incorporate. Also, the preparation of the extracts is advantageous, since in particular the production of the water extract is particularly environmentally friendly.

Even without further statements, it is assumed that a person skilled in the art can make the most of the above description.

All mentioned as well as further constituents or components are familiar to the person skilled in the art and can undergo a special design for the teaching according to the invention in routine experiments. All documents cited in the specification are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety in the disclosure of the present invention.

In the following, the invention will be explained in more detail by way of non-limiting examples and figures for specific embodiments.

Fig. 1:

1 shows the HPLC chromatograms of the extract of Eugenia uniflora (a) and of pure eugenin (b) in comparison. The signal of the comparative sample Eugenin appears at a retention time of approx. 7 min. At this retention time, the extract has no signal (see Example 3).

Examples:

Example 1: extracts from Eugenia uniflora

Approximately 3.5 g of Eugenia uniflora leaves (plant available from the garden trade Dehner in Munich, Germany) are dried at 40 ° C. and 200 mbar in a vacuum drying oven to constant weight, coarsely crushed and extracted in an ultrasonic bath at 70 ° C. for 45 min.

1.531 g of plant material are extracted with 40 ml of water, giving a yellow-brown clear solution.

1.503 g are extracted with 40 ml of ethanol, giving a green clear solution.

The solvent is removed. There are obtained 190 mg of water extract and 80 mg of ethanol extract.

Example 2: Performance of the 816V mouse melanoma cell assay:

B16V mouse melanoma cells (manufacturer: DSMZ; article number: ACC370) are translated into RPMI medium (Invitrogen, item no: 31870), which additionally contains 10% FBS (fetal bovine serum; Invitrogen, item no: 10499044 ), 2mM L-glutamine (Invitrogen, Item No: 25030) and 1mM sodium pyruvate (Invitrogen, Item No: 11360) are added, and incubated for 72 hours at 37 ° C and 5% CO ₂ . The medium is separated and the cells are washed once with 10 ml of DPBS (Dulbecco's Phosphate-Buffered Salines, Invitrogen, Item No. 14190) and the medium is then aspirated off. Add 1 mL of HyQtase-Cell Detachment Solution (Hyclone, Item No. SV30030.01) to the cells. The bottle is swiveled several times and the HyQtase-Cell Detachment Solution is then removed by suction. Then the cells are incubated for 5 min in the incubator at 37 ° C and 5% CO ₂ . The cells are taken up in the modified RPMI medium (see above) and the number of cells determined. For this, the cells are stained with trypan blue and counted in a Neubauer counting chamber. Subsequently, the cells are seeded again in the modified RPMI medium (see above) in a defined cell number of 80,000 cells per well (6-well Clear Plate, TCT, PS (Nunc)).

The cells are incubated for 24 h at 37 ° C and 5% CO2, then the medium removed. Subsequently, 1980 μL of the substance dilution are added. For this dilution of the substance, the water extract from Example 1 is dissolved in DMSO and then filtered through a sterile filter (0.2 μm, Millipore, Article No. SLLG013SL). The solution is then diluted with the modified RPMI medium (s o, but in this case the FBS content is only 5%) so that the final concentration of the extract is 0.1 mg / ml or 9.95 mg / ml.

Then, 20 μL of an alpha-MSH solution (alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone, DMSO, Sigma, item No .: D2650) is added so that the alpha-MSH concentration in the well is 10 ^-8 M. The mixture is then incubated again for 24 h at 37 ° C and 5% CO ₂ . The process described in this section is repeated twice more.

After the last incubation period, the medium is aspirated and the cells are washed with 1000 μL DPBS (Invitrogen, Item No. 14190). The medium is sucked off again. 250 μL HyQtase-Cell Detachment Solution (Hyclone, Item No. SV30030.01) is added to the cells. The 6-well plate is pivoted several times and the HyQtase-Cell Detachment Solution is then removed by suction. Then the cells are incubated for 5 min in the incubator at 37 ° C and 5% CO ₂ . The cells are taken up in 1.5 mL DPBS (Invitrogen, Item No. 14190) and transferred to a cup (SARSTEDT, Ref. 72.692.005). Subsequently, the cell number is determined. For this, the cells are stained with trypan blue and counted in a Neubauer counting chamber. Centrifuge the cells at 3500 g for 1 min. The resulting pellets are photographed and then the supernatant is suctioned off. The pellets are dissolved in 1 mL of 1N NaOH for 1 h at 80 ° C and then cooled to RT. Then 200 μL (as a quadruple determination) are pipetted four times per cup into a 96-well plate (VWR, article no. 4100636981) and the absorption at 405 nm wavelength determined (Safire, Tecan). By means of a calibration line, the content of melanin can be determined

As a comparison, a sample without extract but with 0.1% DMSO or with 0.1% DMSO and alpha-MSH (concentration in the well at 10 ^-8 M) is used in parallel.

Results:

The water extract from Eugenia uniflora from example 1 causes a reduction of the melanin content in the melanocytes stimulated by browning for alpha-MSH. In the case of an extract concentration of 0.1 mg / ml, the melanin content of the cells even falls below the melanin content of the unstimulated cells. Table 1: Content of melanin per cell: Melanin content [pg / cell] standard deviation DMSO (0.1%) 9.63 1.18 DMSO (0.1%) + α-MSH 19.78 2.43 Eugenia uniflora 0.1 mg / ml + α-MSH 6.72 0.17 Eugenia uniflora 0.05 mg / ml + α-MSH 11.36 1.61

Example 3: Examination of Eugenia uniflora extract on eugenin:

Since eugenin is soluble in ethanol, the ethanol extract of Example 1 is analyzed by HPLC. For comparison, pure eugenin (purity 99%) is measured.

The conditions for the HPLC are as follows:
Column: Chromolith Performance RP-18e 100- 4.6 mm
Eluent A: acetonitrile + 1% water
Eluent B: 0.1 M sodium dihydrogen phosphate buffer pH 2.6 + 1% acetonitrile
Gradient: Time Eluent A Eluent B River 0 min 5% 95% 2.5 ml / min 10 min 30% 70% 2.5 ml / min 13 min 5% 95% 2.5 ml / min 15 minutes 5% 95% 2.5 ml / min Wavelength: 315 nm

The HPLC chromatograms of the extract of Eugenia uniflora (a) and of pure eugenin (b) have no agreement (see 1 ): The chromatogram of the extract consists of 3 signals with a retention time of about 2 to 3 min. The signal of the comparative sample Eugenin appears at a retention time of approx. 7 min. At this retention time, the chromatogram of the extract has no signal. The results show that the examined extracts do not contain eugenin. Example 4: O / W emulsions for skin lightening, data in% by weight ingredients 1-1 1-2 1-3 1-4 1-5 Titanium dioxide 2 5 Methylene bis-benztriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol Eugenia uniflora extract 0.5 0.25 0.1 0.25 0.1 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 2 3 4 BMDBM 1 3 3 3 Stearyl alcohol (and) steareth-7 (and) steareth-10 3 3 3 3 3 Glyceryl stearate (and) ceteth-20 3 3 3 3 3 glyceryl stearate 3 3 3 3 3 Microwax 1 1 1 1 1 cetearyl 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 Caprylic / Capric triglycerides 6 6 6 6 6 oleate 6 6 6 6 6 propylene glycol 4 4 4 4 4 Propylparaben 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 methylparaben 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 tromethamine 1.8 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Example 4 (continued): ingredients 1-6 1-7 1-8 1-9 1-10 Titanium dioxide Methylene bis-benztriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol 1 2 1 Eugenia uniflora extract 2.0 1.0 1.0 0.5 0.1 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor 3 2 BMDBM 3 3 3 3 Stearyl alcohol (and) steareth-7 (and) steareth-10 3 3 3 3 3 Glyceryl stearate (and) ceteth-20 3 3 3 3 3 glyceryl stearate 3 3 3 3 3 Microwax 1 1 1 1 1 cetearyl 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5 Caprylic / Capric triglycerides 6 6 6 6 6 oleate 6 6 6 6 6 propylene glycol 4 4 4 4 4 Propylparaben 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 methylparaben 0.15 0.15 0.15 (115 0.15 tromethamine water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Example 5: W / O emulsions for skin lightening, data in% by weight ingredients 2-1 2-2 2-3 2-4 2-5 Titanium dioxide 2 5 Eugenia uniflora extract 0.5 0.25 0.1 0.25 0.1 zinc oxide Polyglyceryl-3 dimerate 3 3 3 3 3 Cera alba 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Hydrogenated Castor oil 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Paraffinum liquidum 7 7 7 7 7 Caprylic / capric triglycerides 7 7 7 7 7 hexyl laurate 4 4 4 4 4 PVP / eicosene copolymer 2 2 2 2 2 propylene glycol 4 4 4 4 4 magnesium sulfate 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 tocopherol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 tocopherol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cyclomethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Propylparaben 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 methylparaben 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Example 5 (continued): ingredients 2-6 2-7 2-8 2-9 2-10 Titanium dioxide Eugenia uniflora extract 0.5 1.0 1.0 0.5 0.1 zinc oxide 5 2 Polyglyceryl-3 dimerate 3 3 3 3 3 Cera alba 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Hydrogenated Castor oil 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Paraffinum liquidum 7 7 7 7 7 Caprylic / capric triglycerides 7 7 7 7 7 hexyl laurate 4 4 4 4 4 PVP / eicosene copolymer 2 2 2 2 2 propylene glycol 4 4 4 4 4 magnesium sulfate 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 tocopherol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 tocopherol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cyclomethicone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Propylparaben 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 methylparaben 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Example 6 Cream for Contrast Reduction (in% by Weight) ingredients INCI [%] A Marlipal 1618/11 CETEARETH-11 3.00 Lanette O CETEARYLALCOHOL 7.00 Luvitol EHO CETEARYLOCTANOATE 5.00 Tegosoft TN C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE 2.50 Miglyol 812 N CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC 2.50 TRIGLYCERIDES Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate PROPYLPARABEN 0.05 B 1,2-Propanediol PROPYLENE GLYCOL 4.00 Methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate METHYLPARABEN 0.15 Water, demineralized AQUA (WATER) 60.80 Eugenia uniflora extract 1.00 C dihydroxyacetone dihydroxyacetone 5.00 Water, demineralized AQUA (WATER) 9.00

production:

Heat phase A to 75 ° C, phase B to 80 ° C. Slowly add phase B into phase A with stirring. Homogenize. Allow to cool with constant stirring and add phase C at 40 ° C. Example 7 Lotion for Contrast Reduction ingredients INCI [%] A Dow Corning 3225 C CYCLOMETHICONE, 23,60 DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate PROPYLPARABEN 0.05 B dihydroxyacetone dihydroxyacetone 5.00 Methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate METHYLPARABEN 0.15 Eugenia uniflora extract 1.00 1,2-Propanediol PROPYLENE GLYCOL 34,90 Water, demineralized AQUA (WATER) 35,30

production:

Phase B completely dissolved to phase A give. Example 8: Gel for Contrast Reduction ingredients INCI [%] A dihydroxyacetone dihydroxyacetone 5.00 1,2-Propanediol PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2.50 Sorbitol F liquid SORBITOL 2.50 Methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate METHYLPARABEN 0.20 Water, demineralized AQUA (WATER) 28.30 B Eugenia uniflora extract 1.00 Natrosol 250 HHR HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 1.50 Water, demineralized AQUA (WATER) 59,00

production:

Add Natrosol to water phase B with vigorous stirring. The dosage of the addition must be such that although a uniform distribution of the particles and a complete wetting of the same can be done with water, while the viscosity of the aqueous phase is minimized while the polymer is added. Dissolve dihydroxyacetone in the water of phase A and add remaining ingredients with stirring. Combine phase A and B and homogenize.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• JP 05-155750 A [0010]
• JP 05-301813A [0010]
• WO 93/04665 [0042]
• EP 0 487 404 A [0042]
• WO 2006/111233 [0074]
• WO 2006/111234 [0074]
• DE 10133202 A [0082, 0082]
• EP 1508327 [0086]

Cited non-patent literature

• Segupta et al. 1965, Journal of the Indian Chemical Society 42: 255-258 [0010]
• Cosmetics & Toiletries 1990, 105, 53 [0063]
• Lemanska et al., Current Topics in Biophysics 2000, 24 (2), 101-108 [0078]
• Rice-Evans et al., Trends in Plant Science 1997, 2 (4), 152-159 [0079]
• Lemanska et al., Free Radical Biology & Medicine 2001, 31 (7), 869-881 [0079]

Claims (11)

Use of an extract of plant parts of Eugenia uniflora for lightening the skin. Use according to claim 1 for the inhibition of tyrosinase. Use according to claim 1 for the prophylaxis, treatment and / or follow-up of pigmentary disorders of the skin. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that the pigment disorders are selected from the group of hyperpigmentation, freckles, age spots and sunspots. Use according to one or more of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the plant parts are leaves, flowers or fruits. Use according to claim 5, characterized in that the plant parts are leaves. Preparation containing an extract of Eugenia uniflora and one or more UV filters. A preparation comprising an extract of Eugenia uniflora and at least one further active substance or extract having a skin-lightening activity. A preparation according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the preparation contains 0.01 to 99 wt .-% of the extract of Eugenia uniflora, based on the total weight of the preparation. Preparation according to one or more of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that a carrier suitable for cosmetic, pharmaceutical and / or dermatological applications and optionally physiologically acceptable excipients and / or fillers are contained. A process for the preparation of a preparation according to one or more of claims 7 to 10, characterized in that an extract of Eugenia uniflora is mixed with at least one suitable carrier for topical applications and optionally with physiologically acceptable excipients and / or fillers.

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